team3s
Monday, September 4
2000 Volume 01
: Number
256
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Sep 2000 18:33:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Clutch
Ken Wheeler and I have posted step-by-step
instructions for clutch
replacement at my web site. Representative clutch
prices can be found
there also. Expect a full day's labor charges from your
dealer.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/blucius/b-2-trany.htm
Jeff
Lucius
--> www.stealth316.com
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <The68th@aol.com>
To: <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 03, 2000 1:29 PM
Subject: Team3S: New Clutch
As long
as everyone is on the topic of clutches I thought that I'd
ask a quick
question. My clutch is slipping more than I ever
thought
possible. So I guess it's time to tap the bank account and get
a new
clutch. What kind should I get and how much will it cost
me? How
much will it cost to have installed? I have a 1992
Stealth ES DOHC.
Also is it mandatory to get it done at a shop, or are there
some
miraculous instructions that would make it possible for one of
my
friends in mechanic school to do it.
Thanks in
advance,
Chris
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 22:34:57
-0400 (EDT)
From: stealth_es@webtv.net (Jason)
Subject:
Team3S: Stalling Stealth
Hello
Everybody,
Hopefully someone can give me some leads on my problem. I
was on my way to
work when my check engine light came on and my car came
to a halt, no
missing, no smoking, no jerking of any kind! It acts like
it just quit
getting fuel. I pulled over and tried to start back up and
nothing the engine
just rolls over, no smell of fuel at all (seems to
have all spark) I had it
towed, got out of work and she starts right up
no engine light on(?) so I
drive about 1 mile down the road and the same
thing happened again. I let the
car sit in a parking lot for a hour or
so and came back. Once again she
starts right up no engine light on. I
get about the same distance and the car
stalls again (same thing?)
The car is a 91 Stealth ES D.O.H.C. (non-turbo)
5-speed,127,000 miles on
car engine has 9,000 since rebuild the car has
plenty of gas and a new
plugs, timing belt and tentioner when it was rebuilt.
It's always ran
great and never stalled out on me. Can somebody please help
and tell me
what to test first Fuel Pump? Sensors? Etc. The last thing I have
done
to the car is remove the instrument panel to remove my SRS light
bulbs
Since this the top of my RPM gauge does not light up all the way
unless
I hit the top of my dash. I know this probably has nothing to do
with
it but I had a car once that would not charge because the dash
wasn't
installed correctly so I'll try any thing. Thanks guys any advice
is
much
appreciated.
Thanks in
advance
Jason J
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 20:58:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help..well, not really.
Just testing a configuration
change. Some people have tried to use "Help"
as the first word
in a
subject line a few times, and just testing it out.
Hope everyone has a
great weekend!
Your faithful admin, who sometimes chats off
topic..
- -Geoff
-
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Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
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preferred name and |
| password (hey..its free, no
fancy CGI passwd thingie here
|
|
plus a 40Mb quota to
boot).
|
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 22:18:57
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: transfer case removal?
Jeff Lucius and I replaced the clutch
in my '92 RT/TT. To do so, you have
to remove the transfer case.
Check out his website for our instructions. :)
http://www.stealth316.com/
Ken
'92
RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Couture"
<labrat101@home.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, September 02, 2000 2:53 PM
Subject: Team3S: transfer case
removal?
> Can anyone point me to some information on transfer
case removal and
> reinstall? Thanks
>
>
J.Couture
> 92 TT frozen x-fer case
>
>
> ***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 09:52:45
-0600
From: rcousar@datawest.net
Subject: Team3S:
Possible cause for syncro problem
A very good friend of my currently owns
a 97 Mustang Cobra. While, reading
up on mods for his car, he
discovered that, his car came from the factory
with a built in snycro
problem. He said, according to research done by
several mustang magazines .
That there syncro problem was caused by the
throw of the shifter. The
throw is to long cause the syncro to not line up
correctly when shifting. He
also said that, it was to long and should be
replaced as soon as
you buy the car. He demonstrated the problem to me. If
drives in
normally fashion it shifts smoothly, but when you hit it real
hard ,
not half way hard, but real hard you can hear the syncro grind. It
is
differently a recall item, but that not going to happen. After he told
me
this I started thinking this could be the same thing could be
wrong with
our tranny and would explain why our snycros wear prematurely.
Here is my
theory on our cars. Our throw is also to long and because of
that, our
syncros are not lined up correctly causing premature failure due to
gradual
friction over time. I know that redline fluids help but
it does not
eliminate the cause problem. I can tell you a short
shiftier kit is on my
list to be order. Please let me know what you
guys think and im going to
get back to him to get more feed back on this
issue. Jack and other tranny
experts please reply.
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 10:39:52
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Possible cause for syncro problem
Why not modify the throw of
your factory shifter?
It has stops to keep you going "too far" however it
isn't adjustable like
the aftermarket Mustang shifters.
An aftermarket
short shifter for the 3000 will eliminate the throw and make
your shifting
even more notchy. ( I know because I have one)
Brad
Check
out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of rcousar@datawest.net
Sent: Monday,
September 04, 2000 10:53 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Team3S: Possible cause for syncro problem
A very good friend of my
currently owns a 97 Mustang Cobra. While, reading
up on mods for his
car, he discovered that, his car came from the factory
with a built in
snycro problem. He said, according to research done by
several mustang
magazines . That there syncro problem was caused by the
throw of the
shifter. The throw is to long cause the syncro to not line up
correctly
when shifting. He also said that, it was to long and should
be
replaced as soon as you buy the car. He demonstrated the problem to me.
If
drives in normally fashion it shifts smoothly, but when you
hit it real
hard , not half way hard, but real hard you can hear the syncro
grind. It is
differently a recall item, but that not going to happen. After
he told me
this I started thinking this could be the same thing
could be wrong with
our tranny and would explain why our snycros wear
prematurely. Here is my
theory on our cars. Our throw is also to long
and because of that, our
syncros are not lined up correctly causing premature
failure due to gradual
friction over time. I know that redline
fluids help but it does not
eliminate the cause problem. I can tell
you a short shiftier kit is on my
list to be order. Please let me
know what you guys think and im going to
get back to him to get more feed
back on this issue. Jack and other tranny
experts please
reply.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 09:21:19
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Possible cause for syncro problem
> A very good friend of my currently
owns a 97 Mustang Cobra. While, reading
> up on mods for his
car, he discovered that, his car came from the factory
> with a
built in snycro problem. He said, according to research done by
> several
mustang magazines . That there syncro problem was caused by the
> throw of
the shifter. The throw is to long cause the syncro to not line up
>
correctly when shifting.
The only reason I can think of that caused them
to come to that conclusion is
brain damage from too many raid parties.
Synchros don't line up, they act like
a clutch to bring the next gear up to
speed. Aggressive shifting is the worst
case scenario for the synchro ---
slow shifting allows internal friction to do some
of the work of the
synchros and allow the gears to match speed --- speed
shifting makes
the synchro do all the work. A weak synchro will not handle the
load and the
Mustang had a built in problem when new, our car requires the
synchro to
wear down until it has a problem.
My neighbor just had his transmission
replaced [ warranty ] with a new design
and the problem was eliminated. If it
was a linkage problem I think Ford could
have figured that out and done a
little cheaper fix.
[snip]
> this I started thinking this
could be the same thing could be wrong with
> our tranny and
would explain why our snycros wear prematurely. Here is my
> theory on our
cars. Our throw is also to long and because of that, our
> syncros
are not lined up correctly causing premature failure due to gradual
>
friction over time. >
The problem is again, poor synchro
design, the nicest thing you can do for your
transmission is to short shift [
within reason ] and allow a half second or so between
shifts or double clutch
and rev match [ sounds cool too
].
Jim
Berry
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 19:50:44
-0400 (EDT)
From: stealth_es@webtv.net (Jason)
Subject:
Team3S: Stalling Stealth 2
Hello
again,
Well the problem with my stealth is stalling after it
warms up. I was wrong
in my last letter after the car warms up it is not
firing nothing coming out
of the coil pack. When it stops working all
three sides stop firing not just
one. Which leads me to belive it's what
ever controlling the pack? I
traced the wires they look like they go to
the unit right below the
pack the Mitsubishi Power TR Unit. Do you guys
know if that is what
controls the coil pack? Has anybody else had this
problem?Or is it possible
for the whole coil pack to quit sparking after
it warms up? If so how much
does this unit gonna cost it looks pretty
$$$$. Anyone with any info please
respond I'm pretty new at working on
these cars! Thanks again in
advance!! O'h my car is a 91 Stealth ES
D.O.H.C (non-turbo) 127,000 miles
when it stalls it just quits no
missing or smoking it just stops all
together.
Jason J.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 20:13:04
-0500
From: "Greg S." <wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Team3S: >
2 Weeks to go to the Wisconsin Gathering.
Hi all .... we're at just under
two weeks to go to the gathering to be held
in Southwest Wisconsin on
September 16-17. If you're anywhere in the area I
hope to see you
there! Drop me a line or check out the following URL if you
have any
questions. Hope to see you there!
Greg
http://www.mhtc.net/~wizards/W3SI/Events/Roadrun/RoadRun.html
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 22:07:47
EDT
From: Zeoswolf@aol.com
Subject:
Team3S: Leaning out the fuel mixture?
Hey 3/S family!
I
have a question for everyone... does anyone have a problem with WOT
basically bogging down? It almost makes me think that the system is
running
too rich at WOT. I have heard if you take out some of the
honeycombs (not
the honeycomb in front of the sensor, but the side ones or
the bottom one) in
the MAS it will fool it to making the system think it is
running the same
airflow but in actuality there is more airflow thus leaning
the mixture out
so WOT isnt just puking fuel into the system.
Consequently better
performance at WOT, right? Does anyone know a
PROPER way to do this? Or am
I completely off base with what I think
the problem is. As a quick run down,
I get my best performance and
acceleration at about 3/4 throttle. As soon as
I put the pedal to the
floor, making WOT, the car makes a whole lot of noise
and i see really no
improvment. PLEASE!! Any help on this will be MUCH
appreciated! This is an on going problem for the past 2 months and it
is
just getting annoying that I have problems smokin' a buick(I always
forget
and slam the pedal to the floor and I sit there and wonder why I'm
having
problems keeping up with alot of cars)!! Need to learn that
right now, I
have to stop at 3/4 to get my best performance!!
THANKS!!
james
94R/T na
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#256
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