team3s            Friday, September 1 2000            Volume 01 : Number 253




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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 00:16:05 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

> My bet is that it's either air in the line (I'm a
> little unsure about that one though) or the
> mechanic possible didn't put the slave cylinder
> back together right and had let the "pin" come out.

Hmm, I forgot about the pin...  I haven't had a problem with it coming out,
but I suppose if someone accidentally pushed the clutch pedal it would pop
it out, or if it got banged around in the engine compartment it could fall
out and let air in there.

Should be reasonably easy to bleed it though, once you get enough stuff out
of the way to get access to the slave cylinder.  Clean clutch/brake fluid is
always a good thing to have regardless.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 00:22:45 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fw: Sick VR4

> The flat bed driver tied down the car using
> one of the rear steering lines and broke it
> (Duh!).  Even CPAs know that you don't use
> rubber lines as tie down points.

Nice.  I hope the tow company is covering at least that part of the bill.
They are supposed* to be the professionals and know how to properly secure a
car to their rig.  At least your car didn't fall off the flatbed.  Ugh.

> The problem was one of the coil packs was
> bad.   $300 to fix.

Hmm, yeah, that makes sense.  They don't seem to go out that often, or at
least not at much as they do on DSM cars.  Could've been worse.

> In the 120,000 mile service they replaced
> the water pump, pulleys and tensioner.

Good plan, you should be set for another 60,000 miles of smooth sailing...

> I'm glad to get my baby back,  but I'm not
> pleased to having to lay out 2 large to get it.

2 large as in $2000?  What else did they do?  Timing belt (even at a dealer)
shouldn't be more than $1000 with the water pump.  Coil pack is about 5
minutes with a socket wrench (and the ECU probably recorded an error code
for it if they hooked up a scan tool).

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 07:25:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Matthew Hull <mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Team3S: ?? Lifter Noise ??

You guys are awesome!!

I forgot to mention something the mechanic told me.

I have this ticking noise that ticks along with my engine revving.
It is really noticeable when the car is idling.  The guy told me it was
something called the "Lifter" he says it is with all Mitsus and that
he can do something with or around the oil and it will clear it up.
Do you guys know what he is talking about?  He will do it for 50 bucks and
it would be nice to not have the tic but if it will mess up my engine in the
process I am not interested.  Thanks again!!

- -Matt


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 08:19:09 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ?? Lifter Noise ??

You can do the same thing for the cost of an oil change plus 1 Quart of
Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Next oil change, leave out 1 Quart of regular oil, and substitute 1 Quart of
any brand ATF.  The ATF has a higher detergency, and will clean out any gunk
that may be in the lifters or any other part of the engine.  This is totally
safe, and the lifter tick will go away almost immediately.  Leave it in
there for a while, and you will have a super clean engine.  Next oil change,
replace with standard synthetic oil (Mobil1 seems to be one of the best)

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Matthew Hull
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 6:26 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: ?? Lifter Noise ??


You guys are awesome!!

I forgot to mention something the mechanic told me.

I have this ticking noise that ticks along with my engine revving.
It is really noticeable when the car is idling.  The guy told me it was
something called the "Lifter" he says it is with all Mitsus and that
he can do something with or around the oil and it will clear it up.
Do you guys know what he is talking about?  He will do it for 50 bucks and
it would be nice to not have the tic but if it will mess up my engine in the
process I am not interested.  Thanks again!!

- -Matt


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 08:45:45 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

Actually, you can get a K&N Aircharger(#63-1000) for only $54 from CarParts.
  This fits all 3/Ses.  Its the one made for the 95-99 turbo DSM, but its
not approved for California.  If you want the K&N FIPK for our cars
(#57-1500) its only $67 from CarParts.

To get these prices, follow the directions on my CarParts page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html  Use the 1/3rd off code for the
Aircharger and the $50 off your first $100 for the FIPK.  You can search
CarParts using model numbers, so it makes ordering easy.

My CarParts discounts end today, so if your thinking of ordering stuff, do
it soon.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org


>From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
>To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK
>Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:33:13 -0400
>
>Hello everyone,
>I was just wondering if you think that $120 is a fair price for K&N FIPK?
>
>Thank you!
>Dusan Simovic
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 10:23:52 -0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: Humidity = Slower.....Density altitude

Guys,
Humidity does play a part in performance as you have stated, just not as big
a part as temperature and air pressure (usually altitude related).Any of you
who fly airplanes has had to calculate density altitude which effects engine
performance as well as lift that the wings produce.  Airplanes perform their
worst on hot, humid, low pressure days.  I copied part of an article re:
density altitude below.
Most density altitude charts and calculators account for the air pressure
and temperature, but not for humidity. Humid air is less dense than dry air,
which means performance will suffer on a humid day. But these effects are
not as great as temperature and air pressure. Our air density explained
</weather/wdensity.htm> text has more on the effects of humidity, along with
the other factors that determine density.

Cheers,

Mark '96 VR-4
'96 YZF 600R
Private Pilot


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 11:07:30 -0400
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: late downshift... maybe?

Hello,
I have a problem with (what it seams to me...) is late downshifting. I have
an automatic Stealth 92 and for the first 10-15 minutes of driving every
time when I slow down to a copmlete stop my car seems to "hic-up" once or
twice. I mean, you can't actually hear it hic-up but it slightly jumps. I
assumed that this was a transmission problem, but I am not sure at all...
Does anyone have any idea what I am talkign about?
Thanks!

Regards
Dusan Simovic


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 09:36:29 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

That's an expensive sticker then.  There's no functionality difference
whatsoever.

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 7:45 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK


> Actually, you can get a K&N Aircharger(#63-1000) for only $54 from
CarParts.
>   This fits all 3/Ses.  Its the one made for the 95-99 turbo DSM, but its
> not approved for California.  If you want the K&N FIPK for our cars
> (#57-1500) its only $67 from CarParts.
>
> To get these prices, follow the directions on my CarParts page at:
> http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html  Use the 1/3rd off code for the
> Aircharger and the $50 off your first $100 for the FIPK.  You can search
> CarParts using model numbers, so it makes ordering easy.
>
> My CarParts discounts end today, so if your thinking of ordering stuff, do
> it soon.
>
> later,
> Curt
> http://www.mn3s.org
>
>
> >From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
> >To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> >Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK
> >Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:33:13 -0400
> >
> >Hello everyone,
> >I was just wondering if you think that $120 is a fair price for K&N FIPK?
> >
> >Thank you!
> >Dusan Simovic
> >
> >
> >***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://profiles.msn.com.
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 09:04:11 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

Definitely bleed the clutch, and then adjust it.  The slave cylinder's piston is
not captive.  It will fall out unless something is holding it it.  Even if the
mechanic didn't remove the slave from the line but left it dangling, the piston
could have moved out enough to let air in.  It really isn't a big deal.
Bleeding the clutch should take a half-hour, even with removing and replacing
the battery and windshield washer bottle.  Bleed it, then adjust it.  This is
part of a clutch job and should be included in the price, so don't pay any more.

Good luck,
Ken

- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 12:57:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Matthew Hull <mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Team3S: New Clutch Problem SOLVED!!

Ok, this turned out not to be a big deal at all.  He just did a very
simple adjustment and in 15 min it was done and working perfectly.  THANK
YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!

With the Lifter thing I don't know exactly what he did, but he drained the
oil when he did it, and the oil was brand new only 3 days old sythedic.

Once again thank you all for your fast and helpful responses!

- -Matt


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 00:41:23 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogs posted

Wow, the O2 reads nothing ??? Strange ... when was NOS initiated in the logs
from Hans ?

Yes, the BOV stuff lucks like on my customers car. Will do the check at
first :)

Cheers
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch



> Did not have a chance to make GIF's but the .tlg files are there for you
> guys to download.  Also posted 2 runs from Hans' nitrous powered 3000GT
SL.
> They were logged at ATCO raceway this winter.
>     Oh and Roger, I had shared with you one of my first runs a long time
ago
> and you commented about the airflow curve.  I think the bump in the curve
> was a result of the leaking BOV, take a look, it's the first log on the
> page.
>
> My site is http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/tmo.htm



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 04:51:11 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brakes Question

Hi Guys,

I have read most of the previous brake threads on the Team 3S site and
am interested if anyone has developed a functional brake cooling duct
system (like on the Cobra R). I am thinking of sticking with the
undrilled and slotted Porterfield cryos and pads , but thinking of
installing ducting from the front end under the car to the inside discs.
I would be interested in any info or experience this group has. There is
a good picture of this system in a recent (motortrend? car+driver?) of
the Cobra R brake ducts that look rather simplistic and easy to install.
Not to mention the clear performance advantage the Cobra R had over the
Viper and  C07 Vette. Road coarse times were clearly superior yet the
Cobra did not have this advantage in any other acceleration etc.
testing. This system may be advantageous when cooling becomes
particularly important over race distances.

Also, anyone have any real data to support that cryo treatment amounts
to any advantage over equivalent non-cryo treated rotors in performance.
I have never seen any real world support for its value for the extra $40
per rotor. I am ignorant here and always cost conscious and therefore
need to be sold on the added value.


Rich
92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 19:19:11 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes Question

>
>I have read most of the previous brake threads on the Team 3S site and
>am interested if anyone has developed a functional brake cooling duct
>system (like on the Cobra R).

Here's what I did:
 Install a scoop under the front valence and run a 2.5 in. flexible rubber
hose to inside the front wheel. I
just tie-wrap the hose to the lower control arm and stick it inside the
wheel as far in as it will go.  It's not necessary to run the duct directly
to the calipers, just in the vicinity. Be careful that the hose doesn't
interfere with the boot over the halfshafts, or you might cut the boot. You
can adapt a wide variety of cheap scoops from gadgets found at Menards --
I've used laundry dryer ducts, plumbing apparatus and gutter downpipes. The
scoop mounts over or inside the 4 x 8 in. rectangular openings on both
sides of the air dam (crawl under there -- you'll see it) and the hose
routes from there to the wheel openings.

Remove the dust shields/backing plates from the front rotors. This will
allow cooling air to get in there. Otherwise, your ducting system is useless.

You may also want to remove the inner front fender well (behind the
intercoolers) to allow better air flow.

>Also, anyone have any real data to support that cryo treatment amounts
>to any advantage over equivalent non-cryo treated rotors in performance.
>I have never seen any real world support for its value for the extra $40
>per rotor. I am ignorant here and always cost conscious and therefore
>need to be sold on the added value.

You have to regard rotors as a wear item that eventually need to be
replaced, just like pads. I've run a single set of Porterfield cryoed
rotors at five open track events without warping. I get them turned after
each event to remove all the scratches, gouges and embedded pad material.
They are probably at the end of their useful life now. The problem with
stock untreated rotors is that they will warp on you, and then the shop has
to take a lot of material off to get them true again. I'm trying Hawk Blue
pads the next time out, and they ought to adminster the coup de grace to
those old Porterfields. If it means anything in your evaluation, I will
order another set of cryoed rotors when these are worn down. The extra $80
is worth it to me in extended life..

Rich/old poop/94 VR4
Porsche Big Red calipers
Hawk Blue pads (on order)
Porterfield cyrogenically treated stock rotors
SS lines
Ford performance brake fluid
Water injection to brakes
NASCAR truck series air blowers awaiting installation.
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 20:57:35 -0400
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogs posted

His nitrous system kicks in at full throttle with a switch on the throttle
body.  I thought it was weird too, maybe he has a problem with the sensor?
That must be it since I don't see any cycling at idle.

later,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
- ------------Still under construction---------------
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Gerl (RTEC) <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogs posted


> Wow, the O2 reads nothing ??? Strange ... when was NOS initiated in the
logs
> from Hans ?
>
> Yes, the BOV stuff lucks like on my customers car. Will do the check at
> first :)
>
> Cheers
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch
>
>
>
> > Did not have a chance to make GIF's but the .tlg files are there for you
> > guys to download.  Also posted 2 runs from Hans' nitrous powered 3000GT
> SL.
> > They were logged at ATCO raceway this winter.
> >     Oh and Roger, I had shared with you one of my first runs a long time
> ago
> > and you commented about the airflow curve.  I think the bump in the
curve
> > was a result of the leaking BOV, take a look, it's the first log on the
> > page.
> >
> > My site is http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/tmo.htm
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 23:09:24 CDT
From: "Dan Erick (3SI #889)" <ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: ECU fixed! =) New questions...

Hey guys, I finally got a rebuilt ECU from foreignecurepair.com for $250 a
few days ago and it fixed all the backfiring, hesitation, and other erratic
problems that I had been getting. Thanks again for the advice! I never would
have guessed that that was my problem. =)
Now it's running like a champ but I've got a noise problem. Whenever I'm not
on the throttle at all I can hear a kind of high-pitched "whirring"?
noise... Any clues?
Also, I thought I heard somewhere that all the scoops and vents on these
cars were functional, I can see that the front ones are, but I looked at the
vents on the side that are supposed to cool the rear breaks and I can't seem
to find any place in the wheel well that allows air to flow in. Thanks!

Dan Erick
Firestorm Red 92 Stealth R/T TT
K&N FIPK
http://vr4.cjb.net/

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Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 21:06:32 -0700
From: todd <q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Team3S: Vegas???

Only a week away.

What's the plan?

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 10:15:30 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Team3S: Apexi AVC-R

Installed it, like it, how do I tune it in?  The instructions STINK! :)
What are NE levels?  HELP! :)  I could really use some advice here.
Generally the car is stock other than a GT Pro-Spec clutch (thanks again for
the help, Jeff!) and FIPK.  Sure is faster now though, and no, I haven't
gone above 1 bar.  It seems the highest I can usually get is .85 or so bars.
I think I need to check for a pressure leak somewhere.

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #253
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