team3s
Friday, September 1
2000 Volume 01
: Number
253
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Aug 2000 00:16:05 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New Clutch Problem
> My bet is that it's either air in the
line (I'm a
> little unsure about that one though) or the
> mechanic
possible didn't put the slave cylinder
> back together right and had let
the "pin" come out.
Hmm, I forgot about the pin... I haven't had a
problem with it coming out,
but I suppose if someone accidentally pushed the
clutch pedal it would pop
it out, or if it got banged around in the engine
compartment it could fall
out and let air in there.
Should be
reasonably easy to bleed it though, once you get enough stuff out
of the way
to get access to the slave cylinder. Clean clutch/brake fluid is
always
a good thing to have regardless.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 00:22:45
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fw: Sick VR4
> The flat bed driver tied down the car
using
> one of the rear steering lines and broke it
> (Duh!).
Even CPAs know that you don't use
> rubber lines as tie down
points.
Nice. I hope the tow company is covering at least that part
of the bill.
They are supposed* to be the professionals and know how to
properly secure a
car to their rig. At least your car didn't fall off
the flatbed. Ugh.
> The problem was one of the coil packs
was
> bad. $300 to fix.
Hmm, yeah, that makes
sense. They don't seem to go out that often, or at
least not at much as
they do on DSM cars. Could've been worse.
> In the 120,000 mile
service they replaced
> the water pump, pulleys and tensioner.
Good
plan, you should be set for another 60,000 miles of smooth
sailing...
> I'm glad to get my baby back, but I'm not
>
pleased to having to lay out 2 large to get it.
2 large as in
$2000? What else did they do? Timing belt (even at a
dealer)
shouldn't be more than $1000 with the water pump. Coil pack is
about 5
minutes with a socket wrench (and the ECU probably recorded an error
code
for it if they hooked up a scan tool).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 07:25:37
-0400 (EDT)
From: Matthew Hull <
mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: ?? Lifter Noise ??
You guys are awesome!!
I forgot to
mention something the mechanic told me.
I have this ticking noise that
ticks along with my engine revving.
It is really noticeable when the car is
idling. The guy told me it was
something called the "Lifter" he says it
is with all Mitsus and that
he can do something with or around the oil and it
will clear it up.
Do you guys know what he is talking about? He will
do it for 50 bucks and
it would be nice to not have the tic but if it will
mess up my engine in the
process I am not interested. Thanks
again!!
- -Matt
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 08:19:09
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ?? Lifter Noise ??
You can do the same thing for the cost of an
oil change plus 1 Quart of
Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Next oil
change, leave out 1 Quart of regular oil, and substitute 1 Quart of
any brand
ATF. The ATF has a higher detergency, and will clean out any gunk
that
may be in the lifters or any other part of the engine. This is
totally
safe, and the lifter tick will go away almost immediately.
Leave it in
there for a while, and you will have a super clean engine.
Next oil change,
replace with standard synthetic oil (Mobil1 seems to be one
of the best)
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Matthew Hull
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 6:26 AM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: ?? Lifter Noise ??
You guys are
awesome!!
I forgot to mention something the mechanic told me.
I
have this ticking noise that ticks along with my engine revving.
It is really
noticeable when the car is idling. The guy told me it was
something
called the "Lifter" he says it is with all Mitsus and that
he can do
something with or around the oil and it will clear it up.
Do you guys know
what he is talking about? He will do it for 50 bucks and
it would be
nice to not have the tic but if it will mess up my engine in the
process I am
not interested. Thanks again!!
- -Matt
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 08:45:45
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK
Actually, you can get a K&N
Aircharger(#63-1000) for only $54 from CarParts.
This fits all
3/Ses. Its the one made for the 95-99 turbo DSM, but its
not approved
for California. If you want the K&N FIPK for our cars
(#57-1500)
its only $67 from CarParts.
To get these prices, follow the directions on
my CarParts page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
Use the 1/3rd off code for the
Aircharger and the $50 off your first $100
for the FIPK. You can search
CarParts using model numbers, so it makes
ordering easy.
My CarParts discounts end today, so if your thinking of
ordering stuff, do
it soon.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: "Dusan
R. Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
>Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:33:13
-0400
>
>Hello everyone,
>I was just wondering if you think
that $120 is a fair price for K&N FIPK?
>
>Thank
you!
>Dusan Simovic
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 10:23:52
-0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Humidity = Slower.....Density altitude
Guys,
Humidity does
play a part in performance as you have stated, just not as big
a part as
temperature and air pressure (usually altitude related).Any of you
who fly
airplanes has had to calculate density altitude which effects
engine
performance as well as lift that the wings produce. Airplanes
perform their
worst on hot, humid, low pressure days. I copied part of
an article re:
density altitude below.
Most density altitude charts and
calculators account for the air pressure
and temperature, but not for
humidity. Humid air is less dense than dry air,
which means performance will
suffer on a humid day. But these effects are
not as great as temperature and
air pressure. Our air density explained
</weather/wdensity.htm> text
has more on the effects of humidity, along with
the other factors that
determine density.
Cheers,
Mark '96 VR-4
'96 YZF
600R
Private Pilot
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 11:07:30
-0400
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: late downshift... maybe?
Hello,
I have a problem with (what it
seams to me...) is late downshifting. I have
an automatic Stealth 92 and for
the first 10-15 minutes of driving every
time when I slow down to a copmlete
stop my car seems to "hic-up" once or
twice. I mean, you can't actually hear
it hic-up but it slightly jumps. I
assumed that this was a transmission
problem, but I am not sure at all...
Does anyone have any idea what I am
talkign about?
Thanks!
Regards
Dusan Simovic
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 09:36:29
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK
That's an expensive sticker then. There's
no functionality difference
whatsoever.
Ken Wheeler
'92
RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt
Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
<
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 31, 2000 7:45 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
> Actually, you can get a K&N Aircharger(#63-1000) for
only $54 from
CarParts.
> This fits all 3/Ses. Its
the one made for the 95-99 turbo DSM, but its
> not approved for
California. If you want the K&N FIPK for our cars
> (#57-1500)
its only $67 from CarParts.
>
> To get these prices, follow the
directions on my CarParts page at:
>
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
Use the 1/3rd off code for the
> Aircharger and the $50 off your first
$100 for the FIPK. You can search
> CarParts using model numbers, so
it makes ordering easy.
>
> My CarParts discounts end today, so if
your thinking of ordering stuff, do
> it soon.
>
>
later,
> Curt
>
http://www.mn3s.org>
>
>
>From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
>
>To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK
> >Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:33:13
-0400
> >
> >Hello everyone,
> >I was just wondering
if you think that $120 is a fair price for K&N FIPK?
> >
>
>Thank you!
> >Dusan Simovic
> >
> >
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
>
*** Info:
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*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 09:04:11
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Clutch Problem
Definitely bleed the clutch, and then
adjust it. The slave cylinder's piston is
not captive. It will
fall out unless something is holding it it. Even if the
mechanic didn't
remove the slave from the line but left it dangling, the piston
could have
moved out enough to let air in. It really isn't a big deal.
Bleeding
the clutch should take a half-hour, even with removing and replacing
the
battery and windshield washer bottle. Bleed it, then adjust it. This
is
part of a clutch job and should be included in the price, so don't pay any
more.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize
using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 12:57:42
-0400 (EDT)
From: Matthew Hull <
mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: New Clutch Problem SOLVED!!
Ok, this turned out not to be a big
deal at all. He just did a very
simple adjustment and in 15 min it was
done and working perfectly. THANK
YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!
With
the Lifter thing I don't know exactly what he did, but he drained the
oil
when he did it, and the oil was brand new only 3 days old sythedic.
Once
again thank you all for your fast and helpful responses!
-
-Matt
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 00:41:23
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Datalogs posted
Wow, the O2 reads nothing ??? Strange ...
when was NOS initiated in the logs
from Hans ?
Yes, the BOV stuff
lucks like on my customers car. Will do the check at
first
:)
Cheers
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Did not have a
chance to make GIF's but the .tlg files are there for you
> guys to
download. Also posted 2 runs from Hans' nitrous powered
3000GT
SL.
> They were logged at ATCO raceway this
winter.
> Oh and Roger, I had shared with you one
of my first runs a long time
ago
> and you commented about the airflow
curve. I think the bump in the curve
> was a result of the leaking
BOV, take a look, it's the first log on the
> page.
>
> My
site is
http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/tmo.htm***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 04:51:11
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brakes
Question
Hi Guys,
I have read most of the previous brake threads
on the Team 3S site and
am interested if anyone has developed a functional
brake cooling duct
system (like on the Cobra R). I am thinking of sticking
with the
undrilled and slotted Porterfield cryos and pads , but thinking
of
installing ducting from the front end under the car to the inside
discs.
I would be interested in any info or experience this group has. There
is
a good picture of this system in a recent (motortrend? car+driver?)
of
the Cobra R brake ducts that look rather simplistic and easy to
install.
Not to mention the clear performance advantage the Cobra R had over
the
Viper and C07 Vette. Road coarse times were clearly superior yet
the
Cobra did not have this advantage in any other acceleration
etc.
testing. This system may be advantageous when cooling
becomes
particularly important over race distances.
Also, anyone have
any real data to support that cryo treatment amounts
to any advantage over
equivalent non-cryo treated rotors in performance.
I have never seen any real
world support for its value for the extra $40
per rotor. I am ignorant here
and always cost conscious and therefore
need to be sold on the added
value.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 19:19:11
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes Question
>
>I have read most of the previous
brake threads on the Team 3S site and
>am interested if anyone has
developed a functional brake cooling duct
>system (like on the Cobra R).
Here's what I did:
Install a scoop under the front valence and
run a 2.5 in. flexible rubber
hose to inside the front wheel. I
just
tie-wrap the hose to the lower control arm and stick it inside the
wheel as
far in as it will go. It's not necessary to run the duct directly
to
the calipers, just in the vicinity. Be careful that the hose
doesn't
interfere with the boot over the halfshafts, or you might cut the
boot. You
can adapt a wide variety of cheap scoops from gadgets found at
Menards --
I've used laundry dryer ducts, plumbing apparatus and gutter
downpipes. The
scoop mounts over or inside the 4 x 8 in. rectangular openings
on both
sides of the air dam (crawl under there -- you'll see it) and the
hose
routes from there to the wheel openings.
Remove the dust
shields/backing plates from the front rotors. This will
allow cooling air to
get in there. Otherwise, your ducting system is useless.
You may also
want to remove the inner front fender well (behind the
intercoolers) to allow
better air flow.
>Also, anyone have any real data to support that cryo
treatment amounts
>to any advantage over equivalent non-cryo treated
rotors in performance.
>I have never seen any real world support for its
value for the extra $40
>per rotor. I am ignorant here and always cost
conscious and therefore
>need to be sold on the added value.
You
have to regard rotors as a wear item that eventually need to be
replaced,
just like pads. I've run a single set of Porterfield cryoed
rotors at five
open track events without warping. I get them turned after
each event to
remove all the scratches, gouges and embedded pad material.
They are probably
at the end of their useful life now. The problem with
stock untreated rotors
is that they will warp on you, and then the shop has
to take a lot of
material off to get them true again. I'm trying Hawk Blue
pads the next time
out, and they ought to adminster the coup de grace to
those old Porterfields.
If it means anything in your evaluation, I will
order another set of cryoed
rotors when these are worn down. The extra $80
is worth it to me in extended
life..
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
Porsche Big Red calipers
Hawk Blue pads
(on order)
Porterfield cyrogenically treated stock rotors
SS lines
Ford
performance brake fluid
Water injection to brakes
NASCAR truck series air
blowers awaiting installation.
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 20:57:35
-0400
From: "Kevin" <
Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Datalogs posted
His nitrous system kicks in at full throttle
with a switch on the throttle
body. I thought it was weird too, maybe
he has a problem with the sensor?
That must be it since I don't see any
cycling at idle.
later,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.comIf you love
cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead-
------------Still under construction---------------
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Roger Gerl (RTEC) <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 31, 2000 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogs
posted
> Wow, the O2 reads nothing ??? Strange ... when was NOS
initiated in the
logs
> from Hans ?
>
> Yes, the BOV stuff
lucks like on my customers car. Will do the check at
> first
:)
>
> Cheers
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
>
> >
Did not have a chance to make GIF's but the .tlg files are there for you
>
> guys to download. Also posted 2 runs from Hans' nitrous powered
3000GT
> SL.
> > They were logged at ATCO raceway this
winter.
> > Oh and Roger, I had shared with you
one of my first runs a long time
> ago
> > and you commented
about the airflow curve. I think the bump in the
curve
> > was
a result of the leaking BOV, take a look, it's the first log on the
> >
page.
> >
> > My site is
http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/tmo.htm>
>
>
>
*** Info:
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***
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 23:09:24
CDT
From: "Dan Erick (3SI #889)" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU fixed! =) New questions...
Hey guys, I finally got a rebuilt
ECU from foreignecurepair.com for $250 a
few days ago and it fixed all the
backfiring, hesitation, and other erratic
problems that I had been getting.
Thanks again for the advice! I never would
have guessed that that was my
problem. =)
Now it's running like a champ but I've got a noise problem.
Whenever I'm not
on the throttle at all I can hear a kind of high-pitched
"whirring"?
noise... Any clues?
Also, I thought I heard somewhere that
all the scoops and vents on these
cars were functional, I can see that the
front ones are, but I looked at the
vents on the side that are supposed to
cool the rear breaks and I can't seem
to find any place in the wheel well
that allows air to flow in. Thanks!
Dan Erick
Firestorm Red 92 Stealth
R/T TT
K&N FIPK
http://vr4.cjb.net/_________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 21:06:32
-0700
From: todd <
q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Vegas???
Only a week away.
What's the
plan?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 10:15:30
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Apexi AVC-R
Installed it, like it, how do I tune it in? The
instructions STINK! :)
What are NE levels? HELP! :) I could
really use some advice here.
Generally the car is stock other than a GT
Pro-Spec clutch (thanks again for
the help, Jeff!) and FIPK. Sure is
faster now though, and no, I haven't
gone above 1 bar. It seems the
highest I can usually get is .85 or so bars.
I think I need to check for a
pressure leak somewhere.
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67
Mustang
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#253
*********************