team3s
Wednesday, August 30
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
251
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:35:38 +0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TMO
Data logger error? New subject my timing #'s
Hmm.. the 91 had a different
trigger. Your figures with a 27 maximum
ignition sounds more "normal", as
Jeff notet the ignition shall absolutely
be higher at higher rpms and then
lowered again when high boos comes on but
the high values seams to be very
extreme. I wonder if the 91 trigger is
"compatible" with the DSM
trigger?
Kevin can you please send me some of your logfiles?? I'm
interested in logs
from all of you. (send them privately, not to the
list)
The reason I asked about this is because I'm trying to "reverse
engineer"
the perfect ignition curve to use with my Haltech system. Mapping
the
ignition is dangerous and difficult so I though I could use the figures
from
the logfiles to get a start map that was as close to the stock ECU map
as
possible and then start optimizing from that.
Thanks,
Mikael
Kenson
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Schappell"
<
kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 30, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: TMO Data logger
error? New subject my timing #'s
Jeff and anyone else out
there. My 91 TT logs only show about a maximum of
27 degrees timing
when accelerating with no sign of knock. I have reset my
ECU thinking
maybe the computer was on the low octane map, but I only run
91 - 93
octane. I am running .95 kg/cm2 boost and have an ATR downpipe
and
Borla exhaust. Anyone have an idea why I am seeing lower numbers
than
everyone else? Is there a difference in the 91's timing
maps? Any ideas
would be helpful. I will try to post some logs
tonight to my site. (at work
right now)
Thanks,
Kevin
Schappell
Auto Answers
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-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff Lucius
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:50 AM
>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TMO Data logger error?
>
>
>
Mikael,
>
> What you describe below is in fact how a normal log
looks for our
> cars! At idle expect to see about 28º advance, 32-42º
while
> accelerating, and 50+º immediately after the throttle plate
is
> closed. Except for the actual values, this is normal behaviour
for
> any car. The advance is always increases briefly as the
engine
> decelerates. Now for the real numbers, none of us think the TMO
is
> telling us the correct absolute values, but the relative values
are
> correct and are what we use for tuning. I have posted an example
log
> (
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-tmo1.htm
)and so has Goe
> Gonsowski (
>
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/tmo%20datalogger%20tuning.htm>
). When I have connected my timing light to my '92 TT, I get about
> 10º
advance at idle while the TMO is showing about 28º at the same
> time.
However, when the CAS was adjusted so timing was about 60º
> advance the
TMO still showed about 30º. Go figure. I do not think we
> can just divide
by about 3 to get a correct timing value. Knock was a
> serious problem
with 60º advance but the car did run. The timing
> curve was jittery -
perhaps Roger's log shows the same thing (I
> haven't seen it) - and idle
was erratic. The '93 does not have an
> external, adjustable CAS so the
CAS may not be the problem.
>
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
>
Stealth 316
> -->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
> To: "Team3S list"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 6:10 AM
> Subject: Team3S: TMO Data
logger error?
>
> Hi,
>
> I have studied the log files
from the TMO data logger and there is
> something really strange with
them.
>
> No way the ignition is 30 degree at itle and up over 45 at
full
> throttle and over 50 at deceleration. This is the kind of values
that
> the TMO loggs and they can't be right. Does anyone have a clue
about
> what's wrong with the log? Is it because the system is designed
for
> the 4cyl DSM cars? Can I recalculate to get the right value ie
divide
> by 3 or 2...
>
> Please help me with this one... a
big 402m race is coming up the 9'th
> sep and I really want the car to
perform as good as possible that
> day.
>
> /Mikael
Kenson
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
>
http://mail.yahoo.com/>
>
*** Info:
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 07:54:35
-0700
From: "Bbizo" <
bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe
This is exactly what happens
when the PCV valve goes bad, the crankcase
pressurizes and blows the dipstick
out as well as blows lots of oil into the
inlet pipe.
Bob
Bissonette
> I have the same problem, a little bit of oil gets spit
out of the blitz
BOV
> every so often. Also, my dipstick is
getting dislodged. Would that cause
a
> boost leak?
Anyways, my new engine and GT-PRO turbos have less than 5k
> miles on them
so I wouldn't expect that they would have problems yet.
Would
> a
breather/catch can solve this problem? If so, how do I implement
this
as
> I'm not too familiar with how they are hooked up in the
engine.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 08:24:33
-0600
From: Manoj Prasad <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Warranty, HERE WHAT HAPPEND TO ME!
Marc,
I am sorry to
hear about your Dad's car. A website with the horror stories,
indexed
by warranty company and item would be a great idea. We need to
make sure that the
information is fact and not someone whining.
My
wife wants me to go get her coffee so I got to go. I have to use her car
because I
don't have one (HA HA).
Rgds
Moe
marc augellli
wrote:
> HERE IS MY WARRANTY
STORY,
>
> Last year
my dad 94 SL (43,000 miles) had a problem, which was the
> crankshaft bolt
came loose, because the pin on the crankshaft gear broke.
> The result was
the car needed a new harmonic balancer, new power steering
> belt, a new
a/c belt, power steering belt pulley, 1 cam gear, headlight
> assembly and
a new plastic cover (the lower one that cover the timing
belt).
> Once that bolt came loose the a/c and power steering
belt was melting, the
> harmonic balancer rolled onto the street, and from
the, force web the
> headlight assembly. The car was at my school,
which was Macomb, Illinois
> Western Illinois University. My father
came up to visit me with my mom (at
> the times it was my dad car, now it
is mine) when this happened my dad and I
> followed the extended warranty
company on how to follow make a claim.
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 17:43:02
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TMO Data logger error? New subject my timing #'s
Yes, I found
out that there are some differences in the timing issue. For
sure what the
TMO is showing us is not what it should be for our cars but
ok for me the
curve and the behaviour is important. I just noticed that our
european cars
have a more advanced timing than any others. I also think
that the
californian cars have a different timing curve than the rest.
I now
measured about 6 european cars and almost everone had little knock
even at
normal boost. The one I have the log looks strange while another
one has
lean figures causing the knock. One common thing is that they
always runned
93 octane ROZ fuel what is less than 90 in US oct. No, our
cars do not like
the low octane stuff and adapts to the other fuel map. I
also think that
there is maybe also an offset for the timing to less
advance it on lower
grade fuel. But I cannot tell for sure.
On the G-Force ECU I have three
different EPROMS with different timings.
Each of those have LESS ADVANCE
than my european one and causing less knock
at the end. Power is the same,
although I "felt" that with my EU ECU there
was less lag.... but this is
only my butt as the dyno is not showing
anything for this.
TMO
doesn't show any sign of helping us nor is he describing what is going
on
with the ignition stuff. There is simply said no answer on any question
:(
Hope you'll get it running properly soon :))
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.chAt 16:35 30.08.2000
+0200, Mikael Kenson wrote:
>Hmm.. the 91 had a different trigger. Your
figures with a 27 maximum
>ignition sounds more "normal", as Jeff notet
the ignition shall absolutely
>be higher at higher rpms and then lowered
again when high boos comes on but
>the high values seams to be very
extreme. I wonder if the 91 trigger is
>"compatible" with the DSM
trigger?
>
>Kevin can you please send me some of your logfiles?? I'm
interested in logs
>from all of you. (send them privately, not to the
list)
>
>The reason I asked about this is because I'm trying to
"reverse engineer"
>the perfect ignition curve to use with my Haltech
system. Mapping the
>ignition is dangerous and difficult so I though I
could use the figures from
>the logfiles to get a start map that was as
close to the stock ECU map as
>possible and then start optimizing from
that.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 12:17:15
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: What a racing PCV system is like...
If you click the link below,
you will see Todd Chaimparino's 10sec 1g
DSM. Take a look at the valve cover,
you will notice TWO "PCV" lines
running from the valvecover (stock setup is
ONE, between the two he
welded in), to an oil catchcan on the left, in front
of the battery.
As he runs near 30psi of boost, I assume there was a lot of
oil
getting into the stock PCV system, and probably out flowed it.
The
stock system is made for 10-15psi... after that, you might want to
look into
something like this if you are having crankcase pressure
problems, dipsticks
flying out, or new oil leaks from bad parts of
your car :)
Imagine if
we had that motor in a 3/S (it would run a bit slower
because of the
weight... but then again, a 4 is lighter than a v6). On
top of that, it would
be EASY to work on! :)
LINK >
http://www.twingles.com/manualcd/at/images/toddscar/2_3.jpgVineet
Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM -
Go Fast With Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 12:15:49
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tmo logger timing
At the shootout, I asked Todd about the 3/S
timing values (because I
was getting crazy good timing... too good it seemed
:).
Well, it seems as if our outputs are skewed a certain number
ABOVE
what the real value is... and the bad part? this is not a "subtract
so
and so from the logger, and thats the correct one".
The tables for
timing are linear, but increasing by I believe he said
RPM. He needs to look
into the ECU code for a stealth to figure out
why, but just has more
priorities right now. He said that knock,
coupled with a visible drop in the
graph of the timing is still
something you can most definetly tune by, and I
agree. It would be
nice to get exact timing figures, but at least it's
somewhat
proportional.
With the logger (and SAFC + 450cc DSM injectors
+ Supra fuel pump), I
tuned my car from a 13.5 to 3 12.8's.
Vineet
Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM -
Go Fast With Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 17:38:07
GMT
From: "Ryan Meador" <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Humidity=Slower?
Wondering if anyone has noticed a considerable
difference in the performance
of your TT engines when the humidity is
high?
After it rains or if it is raining- my car seems to run horribly
(compared
to a nice dry day) no matter what the temperature. Is this a
typical
characteristic of my ECU measuring barametric pressure or humidity?
I don't
get it...nor do I like it.
Ryan
'93 3000GT
VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 10:38:42
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Humidity=Slower?
Yep, humidity = more water in the air given
a certain temperature.
This displaces oxygen...making a less dense amount
of good air entering
the motor.
On Wed, 30 Aug 2000, Ryan Meador
wrote:
> Wondering if anyone has noticed a considerable difference in
the performance
> of your TT engines when the humidity is high?
>
After it rains or if it is raining- my car seems to run horribly (compared
> to a nice dry day) no matter what the temperature. Is this a typical
> characteristic of my ECU measuring barametric pressure or humidity? I
don't
> get it...nor do I like it.
> Ryan
> '93 3000GT
VR4
>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 11:10:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Humidity=Slower?
Humidity (water vapor in the air) reduces
the amount of oxygen in the
air (and the air density) only slightly. At sea
level, 86ºF, and 50%
humidity, air density only decreases by 0.8%! If
humidity would
increase to 100% (raining), density goes down by 1.6%
(so
theoretically 1.6% less power). The ECU does not measure humidity
nor
should it care as far as performance goes. Maybe the water
vapor
actually helps cool the intake charge a little (like WI)?
Perhaps
something else is going on like leakage along the spark plug wires?
I
have not noticed any difference in my TT in the rare times that I get
to
drive it in a downpour (100% humidity) here in CO.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Meador" <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 30, 2000 11:38 AM
Subject: Team3S:
Humidity=Slower?
Wondering if anyone has noticed a considerable
difference in the
performance of your TT engines when the humidity is
high?
After it rains or if it is raining- my car seems to run
horribly
(compared to a nice dry day) no matter what the temperature. Is
this
a typical characteristic of my ECU measuring barametric pressure
or
humidity? I don't get it...nor do I like it.
Ryan
'93 3000GT
VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 11:02:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Humidity=Slower?
> Humidity (water vapor in the air)
reduces the amount of oxygen in the
> air (and the air density) only
slightly. At sea level, 86ºF, and 50%
> humidity, air density only
decreases by 0.8%! If humidity would
> increase to 100% (raining), density
goes down by 1.6% (so
> theoretically 1.6% less power). The ECU does not
measure humidity nor
> should it care as far as performance goes. Maybe
the water vapor
> actually helps cool the intake charge a little (like
WI)? Perhaps
> something else is going on like leakage along the spark
plug wires? I
> have not noticed any difference in my TT in the rare times
that I get
> to drive it in a downpour (100% humidity) here in CO.
-
---
No, it cant act like WI, because its already vapor. Wi works by
injecting
liquid, and it absorbs energy (temperature) by flashing into
vapor.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 22:20:29
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Strange behaviour (datalog)
Guys, thanks for the ideas and
for sure I'll check come of them.
After looking at the curve again and
again my thoughs go into the direction
of :
a) bypass valve problem
(he has the owl sound even without any filter mod !)
b) sticky
wastegate(s)
The problem only occurs under "high" boost and fuel parts
aren't the problem
as then the system would try to increase the injector time
but nut shifts
itselfs back. We have to remember that those values on the
screen are what
the ECU want's to do and not what it measured (timing,
injector timing). The
main thing that leads me to the valve is the drop in
the air curve. For me
this sounds like the wastegates are opening, causing
the usual drop but then
the weak BPV acts too fast and opens itselfs so too
much boost is reliefed.
The other thought is that the wastegates are
stuck and open and close too
quick.
Of course this doesn't describe
the knock problem. I count this to the high
temp as well the low octane and
guess is ok when I'm getting the car on
Saturday. A first run will then show
the situation. Then at first, the BOV
and Aircharger will find their way into
the car as this mod is done within
15 minutes and will show an improvement if
a) was the problem. For sure I
will report back then.
Take
care
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:27:25
EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Opinions...Welding Center Diff ?
I here a few of the Eclipse racers are
welding the center differential
together.
This sounds like a good idea
to avoid some breakage.
I'm not a street car but will still be on the street
occasionally.
Other then the extra tire wear is there another downside I'm
missing?
Opinions requested.
Thanks
Arty 91 VR-4
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 15:44:47
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Opinions...Welding Center Diff ?
> I here a few of the
Eclipse racers are welding the
> center differential together. This sounds
like a
> good idea to avoid some breakage. I'm not a street
>
car but will still be on the street occasionally.
> Other then the extra
tire wear is there another
> downside I'm missing? Opinions
requested.
> Thanks
> Arty 91 VR-4
It'll put more stress on
the splines of the output shaft from the tranny,
which if you still have the
original weaker-splined shaft in your '91 it
might not be so great.
Other than that, the DSM guys have been doing it
successfully for a while and
I haven't heard anything serious that resulted
from it.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:25:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Opinions...Welding Center Diff ?
-
--0-1804289383-967670723=:14604
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Disposition: inline
What parts would be
welded together???
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
Aso8@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
Aso8@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
August 30, 2000 2:27 PM
Subject: Team3S: Opinions...Welding Center Diff
?
I here a few of the Eclipse racers are welding the
center
differential together. This sounds like a good idea to avoid
some
breakage. I'm not a street car but will still be on the
street
occasionally. Other then the extra tire wear is there
another
downside I'm missing? Opinions requested.
Thanks
Arty 91
VR-4
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dimx/9k=
- --0-1804289383-967670723=:14604--
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#251
*********************
team3s
Wednesday, August 30
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
252
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:07:59 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Opinions...Welding Center Diff ?
> What parts would be
welded together???
Hmm, that looks a lot different than the DSM
setup. The DSM setup has a
large center diff section separate from the
viscous coupling. The center
diff contains a set of two spider gears
which interfaces the housing of the
center diff which drives the front diff
outer ring gear and a pinion gear on
the end of the rear output shaft.
They weld the spider gears to the mating
gears, effectively locking the two
output shafts together.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:14:12
-0800
From: "Fonda, Randy" <
fonda@data-io.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: My '91 Stealth runs great (as long as my foot is on t he
gas)
Thanks to those who made suggestions regarding my problem. One thing
that I
didn't mention is that one of the first things that I did when this
all
started was to change the air filter. When I opened the box, I found
that
the one that was in there had been punched in (probably by the last
people
to do an oil change) and so there was definely unfiltered air flowing
in. A
dirty throttle body sounds like a likely candidate.
Randy
'91
Stealth RT/TT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger J.
Roskam [
SMTP:roger.roskam@home.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 6:57 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: My '91 Stealth runs great (as long as my foot is
> on the
gas)
>
> Trouble stalling at idle speeds? I will say a big
DITTO to checking the
> throttle body. It is very easy to do
yourself, and can be cleaned with a
> rag and some carburetor cleaning
spray. When at idle, the butterfly in
> the
> throttle body is
closed, with only a small gap around the outside of the
> valve for air to
get in (just enough for idle). If any gunk builds up in
> there, it
can cut off the air completely at zero throttle, and
>
consequently
> choke the engine into stalling.
>
> Disconnect
the Y pipe where it joins the intake (the big end of the Y),
>
look
> into the throttle body and you will see the butterfly valve.
Wet your rag
> with the carburetor cleaning spray and wipe off the TB and
butterfly.
> Then,
> make sure you secure the Y pipe back on tight,
disconnect the battery
> (long
> enough to reset the computer) and
fire it up. Once the computer
> readjusts,
> it should idle
just fine.
>
> I have now made this an annual routine, and my
engine no longer stalls.
>
> IF this doesn't work, you can have a
look at the idle adjust screw that
> controls just how much the throttle
is open at idle. There is also a
> solenoid that kicks the idle speed up
higher if the A/C is turned on,
> again
> to prevent stalling with
the extra drag the A/C compressor places on the
> engine. The A/C
solenoid can also be adjusted. If these aren't obvious
>
adjustments, let me know and I can explain in more detail.
>
>
Roger Roskam
> 91 Stealth RT/TT
>
>
>
> > My
Stealth had the SAME exact problem. Only it occured after i had put a
>
> new battery in and i had to keep the AC on HIGH in order to keep the
car
> > running until i had it checked.
> > After some
computer checks nothing was wrong. The mechanic cracked open
> > the
throttle body and noticed it was FILTHY, god knows when last
>
checked.
> > However he cleaned it out and my car runs GREAT.
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 23:25:56
+0200
From: Mike Chapleski <
mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Strut Tower Brace
After two years of
playing around with the idea, I finally got
around to fabricating a front
strut tower brace. One of the main
reasons I did this was because
everyone said it was not possible. But
also, when looking at the strut
towers, they just look like they would
flex a lot.
This
is only a prototype, so I decided to modify it so I could
measure how much
flex there is during normal driving. I have brackets
bolted to
both strut towers, however only one side of the connecting rod
is screwed to
a brace (i.e. it cannot move). I drilled out the other
side of the
connecting rod so that the bracket bolt would float inside
it. I then
took clay and crammed it on the threads of the bolt. This
way if the
rod moved (i.e. the strut towers came closer together), it
would push the
clay out. After two weeks of driving, there has only
been 1/16 of an
inch of movement. I had expected a lot more. I cannot
take
corners very hard right now since I have 1/4" wheel spacers in the
front and
I have not replaced the wheel studs yet. However, the roads
around
Frankfurt are very rough and I would have expected some
flex.
The next test I did was jack the front of the car
off the ground by
the front center jack point. The strut towers
spread apart 1/8 of an
inch.
To me both of these test
say that the strut towers are very well
designed and do not move.
Assuming the inward flex went from 1/16" to
1/8" of movement during hard
cornering, that would bring the total
possible movement to 1/4". So for
you suspension gurus out there, is a
1/4" a lot? I guess I was
expecting about 1/2" or more.
Mike Chapleski
95 Stealth RT
TT
Frankfurt, Germany
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 15:11:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front Strut Tower Brace
> around Frankfurt are very rough
and I would have expected some flex.
> The next
test I did was jack the front of the car off the ground by
> the
front center jack point. The strut towers spread apart 1/8 of an
>
inch.
> To me both of these test say that the
strut towers are very well
> designed and do not move. Assuming the
inward flex went from 1/16" to
> 1/8" of movement during hard cornering,
that would bring the total
> possible movement to 1/4". So for you
suspension gurus out there, is a
> 1/4" a lot? I guess I was
expecting about 1/2" or more.
- ---
Hell ya! Thats a lot of
movement.
When you consider that the total amount of camber adjustment is
only about
3/16" of an inch in the eccentric bolt, and movement at the top of
the
strut 1/8" means that camber also changes 1/8"..thats an extreme amount
of
shift.
Then you unloaded and saw MORE. Well, as a car does
"stuff" down the
road, it also load and UNloads as well..yet more feedback
that a strut is
required.
Sign me up..I want one.
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
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Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
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| password (hey..its free, no
fancy CGI passwd thingie here
|
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plus a 40Mb quota to
boot).
|
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:33:13
-0400
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
Hello everyone,
I was just wondering if you think
that $120 is a fair price for K&N FIPK?
Thank you!
Dusan
Simovic
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:32:57
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK
If you don't live in CA, get one from Brian at
GT-Pro. I paid <$100 for it
and the only difference is that it
doesn't have an "emissions" sticker. It
works great and a sticker isn't
required here in Colorado. I think Jeff
Lucius made a note that it
might actually be for a DSM but it fits
perfectly.
Ken Wheeler
'92
RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dusan R.
Simovic" <
dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
> Hello everyone,
> I was just wondering if you think
that $120 is a fair price for K&N FIPK?
>
> Thank you!
>
Dusan Simovic
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:36:54
EDT
From:
TTurboAWD@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Question about BOV
Does anyone know if the BOV from a
1st gen Eclipse
will work on a 2nd gen 3000 VR4? I remember this
thread
some time back but can't remember the
answer.
Thanks,
Wayne
'95 Pearl Yellow VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 17:42:26
-0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Front Strut Tower Brace
Mike:
What an excellent experiment...this
is a "keeper" piece of information.
As the Scientist-Knight said in Monty
Python and the Holy Grail,
"You are Wise in the Ways of Science!"
Thanks
for doing and publishing it!
As to how significant it is in the scheme of
things, I am not sure. It
is certainly a real amount, so a strut brace
would do something; but I
have always been skeptical of people putting strut
bars on and
"totally telling the difference right away"...
Would be best
to thrash it on a roadcourse at max and see what happened
there; then heavy
use on rough roads (pretty much what you DID I guess).
How did you fit it
around the manifold etc? Pics?
Jack Tertadian
Mike Chapleski
wrote: [snips]
> I fabricated a front strut tower
brace.
> Strut towers look like they'd flex a
lot.
> This is a prototype; I modified it
to
> measure how much flex there is during normal driving. I
have brackets
> bolted to both strut towers; only one side of
connecting rod
> is screwed to a brace (i.e. it cannot move). I
drilled out other
> side of the connecting rod so the bracket bolt would
float inside.
> I put clay crammed on threads of bolt.
> If
rod moved (i.e. strut towers came closer together), it
> would push clay
out. After two weeks of driving, there's only
> 1/16 inch
movement. I expected more. I can't
> take corners hard
right now, having 1/4" wheel spacers in
> front; not replaced wheel studs
yet. However, roads
> around Frankfurt are very rough and I expected
flex.
> The next test was jack front of car
off ground by
> front center jack point. Strut towers spread
apart 1/8 inch.
> Both these test say strut towers
are well
> designed and don't move. Assuming inward flex went from
1/16" to
> 1/8" of movement during hard cornering, that brings
total
> possible movement to 1/4". Suspension gurus out there:
is
> 1/4" a lot? I was expecting about 1/2" +.
> Mike
Chapleski
> 95 Stealth RT TT Frankfurt,
Germany
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 19:32:00
-0400 (EDT)
From: Matthew Hull <
mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: New Clutch Problem
OK guys I need your Expertise
fast.
Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch
installed. 9 hours
later I
went to go get the car and I get in it
and I can't get into gear. He
tells me it was
tough before. (It
wasn't at all) After pumping the clutch and two hands
of force I
could get it into gear.
The next thing I noticed was that as I
released the clutch it jumped right
into gear.
There was no easing
into it. Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
shift. Now
after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is
completely
engaged and for the
first few times kept dying on me because I
was not ready for it.
The guy told me he would look at it again
tomorrow morning. To me it
seems that
the clutch pedal itself needs
more adjusting, because it is limp as I push
on it until it is
like 2
inches from the floor when it starts showing resistance.
Ok, I leave
tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
this guy
take
me for more money. I know you guys are smart and know the problem
and
are
probably laughing at me right now. Could you guys tell me what I
need to
do or give
me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a
complete fool and
overcharge
me.
Thanks,
Matt
94 Stealth R/T
TT
K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that
sucks!!
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:33:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Clutch Problem
Ya..just needs adjustment.
You can
do this yourself if you like..its fairly easy.
Theres a rod going from
the pedal to the firewall, with a 10 or maybe a
12mm locknut on
it.
Losen the nut, then use some pliers to turn that rod..that adjusts
the
clutch throw.
Take ya 10-15 minutes and it'll be that much more
intimate you are with
yer car *grin*
On Wed, 30 Aug 2000, Matthew Hull
wrote:
> OK guys I need your Expertise fast.
>
> Today I
took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed. 9 hours
>
later I
> went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into
gear. He
> tells me it was
> tough before. (It wasn't at
all) After pumping the clutch and two hands
> of force I
>
could get it into gear.
>
> The next thing I noticed was
that as I released the clutch it jumped right
> into gear.
>
There was no easing into it. Before I had plenty of room for a nice
easy
> shift. Now
> after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off
the floor it is completely
> engaged and for the
> first few times
kept dying on me because I was not ready for it.
>
> The guy
told me he would look at it again tomorrow morning. To me it
> seems
that
> the clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp
as I push
> on it until it is
> like 2 inches from the floor when
it starts showing resistance.
>
> Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him
again and I REALLY can't afford to have
> this guy
> take me for
more money. I know you guys are smart and know the problem
> and are
> probably laughing at me right now. Could you guys tell me what I
need to
> do or give
> me some questions to ask so he doesn't take
me as a complete fool and
> overcharge
> me.
>
>
Thanks,
> Matt
> 94 Stealth R/T TT
> K&N air charger and
a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
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Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
|
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***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:37:20
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Clutch Problem
He has definitely adjusted it
incorrectly. Take it back - it should not
cost any more. Show him
how much play is in the pedal until very clsoe to
the floor. Pumping
the clutch??? Ouch - Have never had to do that, even in
the Ferrari I
once drove... (It was harder than hell to push the clutch in
(was the
Challenge Edition), but no pumping was required...
It should jump right
into gear, but should give alittle warning. After it
is broken
in, it should slip a little easier, but it is a RPS clutch, so
don't expect
it to feel like the factory clutch. And 1 mm off the floor is
wayyy too
low - do you have the service manuals??? Take them with you...
Some
mechanics just don't know...
- -Cody
(and don't let them charge you a
penny more... you paid for a clutch
installation whether it takes 2 hours or
10 days)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Matthew Hull
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 6:32 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: New Clutch Problem
OK guys I need your
Expertise fast.
Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch
installed. 9 hours
later I
went to go get the car and I get in it
and I can't get into gear. He
tells me it was
tough before. (It
wasn't at all) After pumping the clutch and two hands
of force
I
could get it into gear.
The next thing I noticed was that as I
released the clutch it jumped right
into gear.
There was no easing into
it. Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
shift.
Now
after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is
completely
engaged and for the
first few times kept dying on me because I
was not ready for it.
The guy told me he would look at it again tomorrow
morning. To me it
seems that
the clutch pedal itself needs more
adjusting, because it is limp as I push
on it until it is
like 2 inches
from the floor when it starts showing resistance.
Ok, I leave tomorrow to
see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
this guy
take me for more
money. I know you guys are smart and know the problem
and
are
probably laughing at me right now. Could you guys tell me what I
need to
do or give
me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a
complete fool and
overcharge
me.
Thanks,
Matt
94 Stealth R/T
TT
K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 19:39:39
-0400
From: "Michael" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question about BOV
Yes, I am running a 1G DSM BOV with the
Buschur adapter on my 98 VR4 with no
problems.
Michael
98
VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
TTurboAWD@aol.comSent:
Wednesday, August 30, 2000 18:37
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Question about BOV
Does anyone know if the
BOV from a 1st gen Eclipse
will work on a 2nd gen 3000 VR4? I remember this
thread
some time back but can't remember the
answer.
Thanks,
Wayne
'95 Pearl Yellow VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:38:40
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New Clutch Problem
You kidding me?
A 3rd grade job
like a clutch adjustment and he cant figure out the FIRST
time?
I say
DIY.
On Wed, 30 Aug 2000, cody wrote:
> He has definitely
adjusted it incorrectly. Take it back - it should not
> cost any
more. Show him how much play is in the pedal until very clsoe to
>
the floor. Pumping the clutch??? Ouch - Have never had to do that,
even in
> the Ferrari I once drove... (It was harder than hell to
push the clutch in
> (was the Challenge Edition), but no pumping was
required...
>
> It should jump right into gear, but should
give alittle warning. After it
> is broken in, it should slip
a little easier, but it is a RPS clutch, so
> don't expect it to feel like
the factory clutch. And 1 mm off the floor is
> wayyy too low - do
you have the service manuals??? Take them with you...
> Some
mechanics just don't know...
>
> -Cody
> (and don't let them
charge you a penny more... you paid for a clutch
> installation whether it
takes 2 hours or 10 days)
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Matthew Hull
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 6:32 PM
>
To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: New Clutch Problem
>
>
>
OK guys I need your Expertise fast.
>
> Today I took my car in to
get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed. 9 hours
> later I
>
went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into gear.
He
> tells me it was
> tough before. (It wasn't at all) After
pumping the clutch and two hands
> of force I
> could get it into
gear.
>
> The next thing I noticed was that as I released the
clutch it jumped right
> into gear.
> There was no easing into
it. Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
> shift.
Now
> after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is
completely
> engaged and for the
> first few times kept dying on me
because I was not ready for it.
>
> The guy told me he would look
at it again tomorrow morning. To me it
> seems that
> the
clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I push
>
on it until it is
> like 2 inches from the floor when it starts showing
resistance.
>
> Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY
can't afford to have
> this guy
> take me for more money. I
know you guys are smart and know the problem
> and are
> probably
laughing at me right now. Could you guys tell me what I need to
> do
or give
> me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete
fool and
> overcharge
> me.
>
> Thanks,
>
Matt
> 94 Stealth R/T TT
> K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch
that sucks!!
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
| Get your FREE
Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
|
accounts@speedtoys.com. Include
preferred name and |
| password (hey..its free, no
fancy CGI passwd thingie here
|
|
plus a 40Mb quota to
boot).
|
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:47:39
-0400
From: "Kevin" <
Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Datalogs posted
Did not have a chance to make GIF's but the .tlg
files are there for you
guys to download. Also posted 2 runs from Hans'
nitrous powered 3000GT SL.
They were logged at ATCO raceway this
winter.
Oh and Roger, I had shared with you one of my
first runs a long time ago
and you commented about the airflow curve. I
think the bump in the curve
was a result of the leaking BOV, take a look,
it's the first log on the
page.
My site is
http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/tmo.htmTake
care,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.comIf you love
cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead-
------------Still under construction---------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 22:11:29
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New Clutch Problem
I agree with everyone, there is an adjustment
problem - but if he needs
to
pump the clutch and it is engaging low in the
petal, that is a symptom
of air
in the master cylinder. Be sure to
check that and have it bled if
necessary... let us know what you
find!
Best of luck
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
K&N,
Snake Eyes, NEW RPS TURBO CLUTCH, plates 007KEN
Organizer - 3SI Rochester
(NY)
Matthew Hull wrote:
> OK guys I need your Expertise
fast.
>
> Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch
installed. 9 hours
> later I
> went to go get the car and I
get in it and I can't get into gear. He
> tells me it was
>
tough before. (It wasn't at all) After pumping the clutch and two
hands
> of force I
> could get it into gear.
>
> The
next thing I noticed was that as I released the clutch it jumped right
>
into gear.
> There was no easing into it. Before I had plenty of
room for a nice easy
> shift. Now
> after moving the clutch 1
millimeter off the floor it is completely
> engaged and for the
>
first few times kept dying on me because I was not ready for it.
>
>
The guy told me he would look at it again tomorrow morning. To me
it
> seems that
> the clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting,
because it is limp as I push
> on it until it is
> like 2 inches
from the floor when it starts showing resistance.
>
> Ok, I leave
tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
> this
guy
> take me for more money. I know you guys are smart and know the
problem
> and are
> probably laughing at me right now. Could
you guys tell me what I need to
> do or give
> me some questions to
ask so he doesn't take me as a complete fool and
> overcharge
>
me.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
> 94 Stealth R/T TT
>
K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:27:14
-0700
From: "Bbizo" <
bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New Clutch Problem
I hate to disagree with the known experts on
this board, but before you go
adjusting the clutch (which is hydraulic and
was just fine before you took
it in) bleed the slave cylinder. Chances are
90% that the mechanic removed
the slave cylinder and didn't properly bleed it
when he re-installed it. If
it has air in it, it will act exactly as you
describe. A hydraulic clutch
is self compensating, it doesn't really
care what clutch you have or how
worn/new it is. On the other hand, these are
vacuum assist clutches.
Adjusting the actuator rod can be a mess, especially
since that hasn't been
touched by your mechanic.
Bob
Bissonette
> OK guys I need your Expertise fast.
>
> Today
I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed. 9 hours
>
later I
> went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into
gear. He
> tells me it was
> tough before. (It wasn't at
all) After pumping the clutch and two hands
> of force I
>
could get it into gear.
>
> The next thing I noticed was that as I
released the clutch it jumped right
> into gear.
> There was no
easing into it. Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
>
shift. Now
> after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it
is completely
> engaged and for the
> first few times kept dying on
me because I was not ready for it.
>
> The guy told me he would look
at it again tomorrow morning. To me it
> seems that
> the
clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I push
>
on it until it is
> like 2 inches from the floor when it starts showing
resistance.
>
> Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY
can't afford to have
> this guy
> take me for more money. I
know you guys are smart and know the problem
> and are
> probably
laughing at me right now. Could you guys tell me what I need to
> do
or give
> me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete
fool and
> overcharge
> me.
>
> Thanks,
>
Matt
> 94 Stealth R/T TT
> K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch
that sucks!!
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 22:32:02
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New Clutch Problem
> Chances are 90% that the mechanic
removed
> the slave cylinder and didn't properly bleed
> it when he
re-installed it. If it has air in
> it, it will act exactly as you
describe. A
> hydraulic clutch is self compensating, it
>
doesn't really care what clutch you have or
> how worn/new it is. On the
other hand, these
> are vacuum assist clutches. Adjusting
the
> actuator rod can be a mess, especially since
> that hasn't
been touched by your mechanic.
Actually chances are 90% that the mechanic
didn't* remove the slave cylinder
from the line and that the fluid inside is
actually fine (or at least as
fine as it was before). There's really no
good reason to remove it from the
line unless you are going to put in fresh
fluid.
The clutch is* self-compensating - to a point. Usually when
you go to a
different clutch than stock, the original adjustments aren't
sufficient and
you have to dial in a little more throw on the piston to get
the engagement
where you want it. The clutch setup is essentialy the
same as on the DSM
cars, and I've done more than my fair share of clutches on
those - each
requiring at least some adjustment of the rod to get the
pedal
travel/engagement into spec.
Could be air in the line, but the
mechanic would've had to go out of his way
to get the air in there - most
mechanics I've seen are too lazy to go
through that unless you specify to
change the fluid. Even then, removal of
the line isn't
necessary.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 21:36:39
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Clutch Problem
I agree. You can check Jeff Lucius's
page at the document we did on the
clutch replacement. There's a pic (I
think it made it in) of the slave
cylinder covered in electrical tape so that
air wouldn't get in while we
changed out the clutch. It really is a
simple system. Jeff also developed
a leak in his hydrolic clutch line
and was squirting fluid out all over the
place. There really isn't much
to adjust on these things, especially if it
was working before. My bet
is that it's either air in the line (I'm a
little unsure about that one
though) or the mechanic possible didn't put the
slave cylinder back together
right and had let the "pin" come out.
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67
Mustang
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bbizo" <
bbizo@telisphere.com>
To: "3si"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Clutch
Problem
> I hate to disagree with the known experts on this board,
but before you go
> adjusting the clutch (which is hydraulic and was just
fine before you took
> it in) bleed the slave cylinder. Chances are 90%
that the mechanic removed
> the slave cylinder and didn't properly bleed
it when he re-installed it.
If
> it has air in it, it will act exactly
as you describe. A hydraulic clutch
> is self compensating, it
doesn't really care what clutch you have or how
> worn/new it is. On the
other hand, these are vacuum assist clutches.
> Adjusting the actuator rod
can be a mess, especially since that hasn't
been
> touched by your
mechanic.
>
> Bob Bissonette
>
> > OK guys I need
your Expertise fast.
> >
> > Today I took my car in to get my
new RPS Turbo Clutch installed. 9
hours
> > later I
>
> went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into gear.
He
> > tells me it was
> > tough before. (It wasn't at
all) After pumping the clutch and two hands
> > of force
I
> > could get it into gear.
> >
> > The next thing
I noticed was that as I released the clutch it jumped
right
> > into
gear.
> > There was no easing into it. Before I had plenty of
room for a nice
easy
> > shift. Now
> > after moving
the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is completely
> > engaged and
for the
> > first few times kept dying on me because I was not ready
for it.
> >
> > The guy told me he would look at it again
tomorrow morning. To me it
> > seems that
> > the clutch
pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I
push
> >
on it until it is
> > like 2 inches from the floor when it starts
showing resistance.
> >
> > Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him
again and I REALLY can't afford to have
> > this guy
> > take
me for more money. I know you guys are smart and know the problem
>
> and are
> > probably laughing at me right now. Could you
guys tell me what I need
to
> > do or give
> > me some
questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete fool and
> >
overcharge
> > me.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
Matt
> > 94 Stealth R/T TT
> > K&N air charger and a new
RPS Clutch that sucks!!
> >
> >
> > ***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 16:19:37
+1200
From: Kevin Clark <
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
The quick answer is that $120 is a fair price
for a FIPK.
The Aircharger however is much cheaper but has no
C.A.R.B
sticker. You may also like to try the following
discounts
for a better deal (available from
CarParts).
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Curt Gendron [
mailto:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 31 August 2000 08:07
> Subject: CarParts
discounts ending soon
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> My
CarParts discount codes will be ending in a few days, so
> if your
thinking about ordering something, you should do it
> soon. I have codes
for 1/3rd off your first $300 and $50 off
> your first $100. Some of the
popular 3/S items are:
>
> K&N Aircharger (63-1000): $81.50
1/3rd off: $54.60
> K&N FIPK (57-1500): $117.95 $50 off:
$67.95
> Borla TT exhaust (15443): $644.99 1/3rd off: $544.99
>
> All my discounts can be found at:
>
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html>
> later,
> Curt
>
http://www.mn3s.org*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 23:31:39
-0500
From: "Doug Garrott" <
dgarrott@texas.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Fw: Sick VR4
As you may recall, my '93 VR4 sputtered and stumbled
badly when I tried to
get any boost. Several of you suggested
boost hoses and then probably the
57,000 mile old timing belt. I
checked each very carefully and couldn't
locate the problem.
I
took it to a San Antonio dealer for diagnosis and the 120,000
mile
service.
The flat bed driver tied down the car using
one of the rear steering lines
and broke it (Duh!). Even CPAs
know that you don't use rubber lines as tie
down
points.
The problem was one of the coil packs was bad.
$300 to fix.
In the 120,000 mile service they replaced the water
pump, pulleys and
tensioner.
I'm glad to get my baby
back, but I'm not pleased to having to lay out 2
large to get
it.
Thanks to all of you who helped me try to avoid the
dealer.
Doug G
'93 VR4
>
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#252
*********************
