team3s            Tuesday, August 29 2000            Volume 01 : Number 249




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:55:25 -0400
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Team3S: re: Warranty?

I had similar problems with my extended warranty, but in the long run, they
ended up covering almost $4,000 in repairs for things like the "Active
Aero" system, anti-lock brake system, and one turbo. I had to fight for it,
but they eventually paid. In the case of the fried turbo, I had to remove
some of my mods and replace them with the original equipment before they
sent out the inspector. As it turned out, after waiting for a week, he
didn't even look at the car, he just looked at the repair estimate and
signed the authorization! I also had problems, several times, with the seat
belts not retracting, and they would NOT pay for that. But Mitsubishi ended
up covering the new belts under the factory warranty.

Jeff Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4

>From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Warranty?

>The problem with aftermarket warranty companies is their bad habit of
denying
>claims. The policy has a list of covered items and if it isn't listed then
it isn't
>covered. For example most policies exclude the SRS stuff [ air bags,
sensors,
>controllers, etc. ]. They will deny claims if your car is modified. They
have the
>right to send an inspector to approve the work --- you could sit in West
Elbowpit,
>Nevada for 5 days waiting for approval on the repair of a blown engine.
Try to
>understand the fine print before buying.

>        Jim Berry
>=====================================================


>>- ----- Original Message -----
>>From: Danny Erick <ttstealth@hotmail.com>
>>To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>

>> What do you guys think about aftermarket warranties from companies like
>> www.warrantybynet.com? Are they worth the money? Is there a better
company?
>> My quote was like $1,800 for three years coverage. I know I'm going to
have
>> my car for at least 4 more years and was just wondering if any one else
has
>> one of these warranties or what anyone has heard about them. As always,
>> THANKS GUYS



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 08:42:08 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tensioner installation errors, etc.

Nice write-up steve.  Sorry about the dealer incompetence.

The boroscope will show major piston and valve damage.  Fortunately you didn't
see any.  The compression and leak down test will show whether the valves are
still closing correctly.  However even with the boroscope and compression tests,
you can't guarantee that the valves didn't hit lightly.  It may be that light
contact was made that didn't leave a mark on the piston, nor bend a valve, but
could shorten the life of other parts.  I'm speculating here, but it might be
possible for light contact to damage the valve guides.  Light contact could
cause undue force on the side of the guide and manifest in more oil blow-by.
Maybe others can comment on the possibiblilty of this happening.  Hopefully no
contact occured at all.

Just a comment on the torque.  The T-belt tension on the turbo cars is 7 ft-lbs
(my buddy just replaced his T-Belt and had to buy a torque wrench that measured
in inch-pounds).  Should be the same for your non-turbo.  42 ft-lbs is probably
the spec for the bolt that holds the tensioner in place.

> The timing belt tensioner on the DOHC Stealth (and I assume the 3000 also)
> revolves around 2 axes of rotation, one at the center around which it
> free-wheels while the engine runs and the other eccentric around which it
> revolves when the proper tension is applied to the timing belt. Once that
> tension is applied, the second axis of rotation is "locked down", I
> believe by tightening a bolt. To do this correctly requires a special
> "two-pin" tool that is used to hold the eccentric rotation in the correct
> orientation while the tensioner is installed, and then is removed so that
> the proper tension can be applied by rotating the tensioner around the
> eccentric axis using a torque wrench (I believe 42 ft-lbs of torque is the
> correct tension, but check your manuals, my memory could be wrong). The
> dealer, of course, did not have the special tool (but they do now) and
> neither mechanic that worked on the car realized the importance of getting
> the eccentric rotation correct. They both just reinstalled the tensioner
> as it came out of the car when the belt was removed and I think used a
> lever bar to rotate the entire tensioner assembly so the bolt holes would
> line up.  The result was a loose timing belt that resulted in slippage at
> some point.

- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:44:17 -0600
From: "Kevin Fanciulli" <StealthTwinTurbo@bigfoot.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warranty?

A nice thread on warranties from www.warrantybynet.com is currently hosted
on the 3Si message board.  Several owners of the warranty have replied with
their input.  Check it out at
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=10397.

If anyone else on this list has an extended warranty available for the TT,
please post there with your input!  The two main ones I've seen so far is
the WarrantyByNet and Platinum.

Thanks,
- -kevin fanciulli
'92 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo, 92k miles.
http://members.home.com/nebula9
3Si #0375

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Danny Erick
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 6:35 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Warranty?


What do you guys think about aftermarket warranties from companies like
www.warrantybynet.com? Are they worth the money? Is there a better company?
My quote was like $1,800 for three years coverage. I know I'm going to have
my car for at least 4 more years and was just wondering if any one else has
one of these warranties or what anyone has heard about them. As always,
THANKS GUYS!

Dan Erick
Firestorm Red 92 Stealth R/T TT <--Getting that new ECU this week! =)
K&N FIPK


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 09:47:25 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tensioner installation errors, etc.

> The rear bank cylinder on the passenger's side had considerable
> carbon buildup and the sparkplug was wet when it was removed.
> Also, there was an area on one of the valves where the carbon
> buildup had been broken away suggesting, I guess, the possibility that
> that valve might have tapped the piston. The main question in
> my mind was why so much carbon buildup in that cylinder? I should also
> mention that all the spark plugs on the rear bank had been running rich

Just to add some more data here, but when I went through my
compression woes a few weeks back (REALLY high compression due to carbon
build-up), I also had significantly more buildup in cylinder #6 (rear
passenger side) than the other cylinders after the first cleaning.  I don't
think the buildup was all that much thicker than the other cylinders before
I first cleaned them because the compression values were all pretty close.
Maybe it was more dense in that cylinder. 
The only thing I could think of was that maybe it was a result of
the small amounts of oil that get into the intake through the PCV valve.  My
reasoning (may not be correct, but anyway) was that the plenum runner for
the intake on cylinder #6 is the first one after the throttle body and that
the oil, being heavy would more frequently get sucked into the first runner
rather than make it into the others.  That was my motivation for installing
a catch can on the PCV hose.

Oh, and BTW, anyone care to explain what a leakdown test is?  I can guess
from the context of this thread, but I'm curious:)

- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          72,000 mi
   Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
   Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
   K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla               68,000mi
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 13:14:31 -0600
From: Manoj Prasad <mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: Warranty? My story

Here is my Story on my Tranny and engine.

I will try to keep it short and factual.

My output shaft went:

    I took the car to a tranny shop.  The tranny shop did a tear down of the
tranny.  The inspector came out and took pictures.  He sent the pictures back
to the warranty company  and the warranty company denied my claim.  They said
it was rust that caused the problem.  I said this is a sealed system so how can
rust get in there.  They said that it must be the salt in the air that caused
the rust.  I told them I live in CO so there is no salt in the air.  They said
since you live in CO, it snows there, so it must be the salt they use on the
road.  I told them that CO does not use salt, they use gravel or magnesium mix.
They still denied the claim.

I went to the dealer I bought the warranty from and complained to them and they
complained to the warranty sales rep.  They covered the Tranny.


Now my engine:

I need a short block because the main bearing went.  The car was towed to the
dealership on July 10, 00.  The dealer had to make a lift available because he
knew this was a big job and would tie up the lift for 3 to 4 weeks.  They
finally did a tear down on July 20th.  The warranty inspector came out and took
pictures of the damage.  He took all the oil out of the oil pan for
inspection.  They took a copy of all my services and oil changes.

They came back and said I was missing one receipt for an oil filter, that is
why the engine blew and they are not going to cover the engine.  I told them
that Mitsubishi requires an oil change every 7500 miles and I overlap twice so
missing a receipt for one oil filter does not matter.

Then they said the oil filter was too short for my car.  I told them that the
filter I use is what Mobile One Recommends for my car.

Then they said they have to wait for the oil test to be completed to see if
there is any water in the oil.  I waited a week and a half.  They came back and
said the lab lost all my oil and they need another oil sample.  They waited a
week before sending out another inspector.  He took the oil out of the oil
filter.  I made sure that only my dealer touched the oil and oil filter. They
came back and said I had water in my oil and they denied my claim.

I hired a local lab and had them take an oil sample and analyze it.  The
warranty company only left me with a little bit of oil.  The test came back and
said I did not have water in my oil.

The warranty company, knowing very well that there is no more oil left in the
car, said, if they can not get another sample of the oil, they will not cover
my engine.

At this point, I have sent a letter off to the General Manger of Gebhardt
Motors of Boulder, The owner of Gebhardt Motors, Mr Gebhardt himself, Channel 9
news (I-Team), Tom Martino(troubleshooter in CO), Better Business Bureau of
Colorado and the Better Business Bureau of Atlanta.  Atlanta is where the
warranty company is.

I know a lawyer that is going to help me get the paperwork in order with in the
next week or two. I will then go to Boulder District Court and filing a Lawsuit
against Gebhardt Motors.  Why Gebhardt,  because they sold me a warranty that
will not cover what they say in the Warranty book. I have done everything by
the book and have all the necessary receipts and all of them will hold up in
Court.

I will also file a Lawsuit against the Warranty Company.

This is where I sit at this time.

You all must be asking what is the warranty company name, well they are :
Automobile Protection Corporation -APCO.  They are in Atlanta. GA.  They sell a
warranty called Easy Care Vehicle service contract.

Please wish me luck and also if someone has more suggestions on what I should
be doing, please let me know.

Best Regards
Moe P


Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com wrote:

> I had similar problems with my extended warranty, but in the long run, they
> ended up covering almost $4,000 in repairs for things like the "Active
> Aero" system, anti-lock brake system, and one turbo. I had to fight for it,
> but they eventually paid. In the case of the fried turbo, I had to remove
> some of my mods and replace them with the original equipment before they
> sent out the inspector. As it turned out, after waiting for a week, he
> didn't even look at the car, he just looked at the repair estimate and
> signed the authorization! I also had problems, several times, with the seat
> belts not retracting, and they would NOT pay for that. But Mitsubishi ended
> up covering the new belts under the factory warranty.
>
> Jeff Williamson
> Belleville, MI
> '92 VR4
>
> >From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
> >Subject: Re: Team3S: Warranty?
>
> >The problem with aftermarket warranty companies is their bad habit of
> denying
> >claims. The policy has a list of covered items and if it isn't listed then
> it isn't
> >covered. For example most policies exclude the SRS stuff [ air bags,
> sensors,
> >controllers, etc. ]. They will deny claims if your car is modified. They
> have the
> >right to send an inspector to approve the work --- you could sit in West
> Elbowpit,
> >Nevada for 5 days waiting for approval on the repair of a blown engine.
> Try to
> >understand the fine print before buying.
>
> >        Jim Berry
> >=====================================================
>
> >>- ----- Original Message -----
> >>From: Danny Erick <ttstealth@hotmail.com>
> >>To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> >> What do you guys think about aftermarket warranties from companies like
> >> www.warrantybynet.com? Are they worth the money? Is there a better
> company?
> >> My quote was like $1,800 for three years coverage. I know I'm going to
> have
> >> my car for at least 4 more years and was just wondering if any one else
> has
> >> one of these warranties or what anyone has heard about them. As always,
> >> THANKS GUYS
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 12:58:26 -0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject: Team3S: WTB: radio trim bezel

Hi All,

  I need a radio trim bezel for a 1992 VR4.  My interior is black.  I
have the kind with two openings, and I need one of the ones with one
opening.  (This is the plastic trim piece that goes around the radio.)

Thanks,
JAT


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 15:06:28 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: WTB: radio trim bezel

>   I need a radio trim bezel for a 1992 VR4.  My interior is
> black.  I have the kind with two openings, and I need one
> of the ones with one opening.  (This is the plastic trim
> piece that goes around the radio.)

Get one from the dealer.  They are about $12 for a new one.  All of them are
black in color.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 00:34:16 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tensioner installation errors, etc.

A leak-down test is to find out if the pressure is blown by the pistons or
the valves. The poor mans test is to put some oil into the cylinders that
the rings are covered. Now applying pressure to the cylinder should show if
the valves are leaking as rings at the piston are covered by oil what is too
think to be pressed by.

The best professional leak-down test is done by a pressure tool screwed into
the spark plug hole. When pressure is applied (around 10 bars) one can hear
with a stetoscope where the air flows by. On my car we were able to hear it
down in the crankcase and not at the heads. The damaged pistons proofed this
then.

> Oh, and BTW, anyone care to explain what a leakdown test is?  I can guess
> from the context of this thread, but I'm curious:)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 16:40:56 -0800
From: "Fonda, Randy" <fonda@data-io.com>
Subject: Team3S: My '91 Stealth runs great (as long as my foot is on the gas)

Hi,

A couple of weeks ago, I was driving down the main drag of town kind of
showing off a little bit. After having already gone between several lights,
I pulled up to yet another one, and the engine died. No warning, no prior
symptoms.

Anyway, getting home was a challenge (quite embarrasing untill I figured out
how to stop at a light without dieing). The thing runs strong as a mule as
long as I have my foot on the gas (smooth down to 500 rpm's). As soon as let
off the gas, it stops running just as if I had shut it down with the key.

I borrowed a manual from a friend and quickly started thinking "throttle
position sensor/idle switch". I adjusted it as outlined in the manual (to no
avail). It seemed to be working properly, but I'm not sure. There was a
region where it went into variable resistance between continuity and no
continuity. I'm still thinking that the idle switch may be bad.

I've searched through the archives and haven't come across a problem that
quite matches what I'm seeing.

Any suggestions anyone???


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 20:55:45 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe

Roger,

What did you find for a cause in this case?  I found the same thing in mine, oil
has pushed thru the intercooler line all the way up to the oil dipstick so far.
I thought it was from the turbo, but am relieved to find that it was coming from
the intake.  Now, what is causing it to feed back into the intake??

Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
K&N, Snake Eyes, plates 007 KEN
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
Soon to come: www.3sirochester.org  !!!

"Roger Gerl (RTEC)" wrote:

> Check out my pictures on the "problem page" under my site http://www.rtec.ch
> . This was definitely too much oil pushed back into the intake by too much
> crankcase pressure.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 18:01:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe

Easy..bad compression.

Somethings busted/blown.  You have major PCV activity going on.

On Mon, 28 Aug 2000, Ken Stanton wrote:

> Roger,
>
> What did you find for a cause in this case?  I found the same thing in mine, oil
> has pushed thru the intercooler line all the way up to the oil dipstick so far.
> I thought it was from the turbo, but am relieved to find that it was coming from
> the intake.  Now, what is causing it to feed back into the intake??
>
> Ken Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
> K&N, Snake Eyes, plates 007 KEN
> Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
> Soon to come: www.3sirochester.org  !!!
>
> "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" wrote:
>
> > Check out my pictures on the "problem page" under my site http://www.rtec.ch
> > . This was definitely too much oil pushed back into the intake by too much
> > crankcase pressure.
> >
> > Roger
> > 93'3000GT TT
> > www.rtec.ch
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
| Get your FREE Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
|   accounts@speedtoys.com.  Include preferred name and     |
| password (hey..its free, no fancy CGI passwd thingie here |
|                plus a 40Mb quota to boot).                |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:21:29 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe

Ken, I just ran through an explanation of our PCV system on the 3SI board that you
may find helpful:   http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=10672


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 18:38:41 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: Warranty? My story

Good lord, what a bunch of weasels!

I personally have never bought a warranty or service contract other than from the
mfr. (for my dodge dakota pickup).  The "this dealer-only" or "this warranty
network only" have always made me leery.

The mfr. will generally stand behind their service contract and not resort to
weasel tactics.  Your mileage may vary with 3rd warranty companies.
Unfortunately, I think they probably have to be sued to collect a dime from them.
Are warranty scammers like this regulated by the state the way that insurance
companies are?   I believe that all insurance companies would happily take your
premiums, but make you fight for every dime come claim time, if they were not
regulated.

I personally would not get a third-party vehicle warranty unless I was a) an
investigative journalist or b) a lawyer!

Dave

Manoj Prasad wrote:

> Here is my Story on my Tranny and engine.
>
> I will try to keep it short and factual.
>
> My output shaft went:
>
>     I took the car to a tranny shop.  The tranny shop did a tear down of the
> tranny.  The inspector came out and took pictures.  He sent the pictures back
> to the warranty company  and the warranty company denied my claim.  They said
> it was rust that caused the problem.  I said this is a sealed system so how can
> rust get in there.  They said that it must be the salt in the air that caused
> the rust.  I told them I live in CO so there is no salt in the air.  They said
> since you live in CO, it snows there, so it must be the salt they use on the
> road.  I told them that CO does not use salt, they use gravel or magnesium mix.
> They still denied the claim.
>
> I went to the dealer I bought the warranty from and complained to them and they
> complained to the warranty sales rep.  They covered the Tranny.
>
> Now my engine:
>
> I need a short block because the main bearing went.  The car was towed to the
> dealership on July 10, 00.  The dealer had to make a lift available because he
> knew this was a big job and would tie up the lift for 3 to 4 weeks.  They
> finally did a tear down on July 20th.  The warranty inspector came out and took
> pictures of the damage.  He took all the oil out of the oil pan for
> inspection.  They took a copy of all my services and oil changes.
>
> They came back and said I was missing one receipt for an oil filter, that is
> why the engine blew and they are not going to cover the engine.  I told them
> that Mitsubishi requires an oil change every 7500 miles and I overlap twice so
> missing a receipt for one oil filter does not matter.
>
> Then they said the oil filter was too short for my car.  I told them that the
> filter I use is what Mobile One Recommends for my car.
>
> Then they said they have to wait for the oil test to be completed to see if
> there is any water in the oil.  I waited a week and a half.  They came back and
> said the lab lost all my oil and they need another oil sample.  They waited a
> week before sending out another inspector.  He took the oil out of the oil
> filter.  I made sure that only my dealer touched the oil and oil filter. They
> came back and said I had water in my oil and they denied my claim.
>
> I hired a local lab and had them take an oil sample and analyze it.  The
> warranty company only left me with a little bit of oil.  The test came back and
> said I did not have water in my oil.
>
> The warranty company, knowing very well that there is no more oil left in the
> car, said, if they can not get another sample of the oil, they will not cover
> my engine.
>
> At this point, I have sent a letter off to the General Manger of Gebhardt
> Motors of Boulder, The owner of Gebhardt Motors, Mr Gebhardt himself, Channel 9
> news (I-Team), Tom Martino(troubleshooter in CO), Better Business Bureau of
> Colorado and the Better Business Bureau of Atlanta.  Atlanta is where the
> warranty company is.
>
> I know a lawyer that is going to help me get the paperwork in order with in the
> next week or two. I will then go to Boulder District Court and filing a Lawsuit
> against Gebhardt Motors.  Why Gebhardt,  because they sold me a warranty that
> will not cover what they say in the Warranty book. I have done everything by
> the book and have all the necessary receipts and all of them will hold up in
> Court.
>
> I will also file a Lawsuit against the Warranty Company.
>
> This is where I sit at this time.
>
> You all must be asking what is the warranty company name, well they are :
> Automobile Protection Corporation -APCO.  They are in Atlanta. GA.  They sell a
> warranty called Easy Care Vehicle service contract.
>
> Please wish me luck and also if someone has more suggestions on what I should
> be doing, please let me know.
>
> Best Regards
> Moe P
>
> Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com wrote:
>
> > I had similar problems with my extended warranty, but in the long run, they
> > ended up covering almost $4,000 in repairs for things like the "Active
> > Aero" system, anti-lock brake system, and one turbo. I had to fight for it,
> > but they eventually paid. In the case of the fried turbo, I had to remove
> > some of my mods and replace them with the original equipment before they
> > sent out the inspector. As it turned out, after waiting for a week, he
> > didn't even look at the car, he just looked at the repair estimate and
> > signed the authorization! I also had problems, several times, with the seat
> > belts not retracting, and they would NOT pay for that. But Mitsubishi ended
> > up covering the new belts under the factory warranty.
> >
> > Jeff Williamson
> > Belleville, MI
> > '92 VR4
> >
> > >From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
> > >Subject: Re: Team3S: Warranty?
> >
> > >The problem with aftermarket warranty companies is their bad habit of
> > denying
> > >claims. The policy has a list of covered items and if it isn't listed then
> > it isn't
> > >covered. For example most policies exclude the SRS stuff [ air bags,
> > sensors,
> > >controllers, etc. ]. They will deny claims if your car is modified. They
> > have the
> > >right to send an inspector to approve the work --- you could sit in West
> > Elbowpit,
> > >Nevada for 5 days waiting for approval on the repair of a blown engine.
> > Try to
> > >understand the fine print before buying.
> >
> > >        Jim Berry
> > >=====================================================
> >
> > >>- ----- Original Message -----
> > >>From: Danny Erick <ttstealth@hotmail.com>
> > >>To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> >
> > >> What do you guys think about aftermarket warranties from companies like
> > >> www.warrantybynet.com? Are they worth the money? Is there a better
> > company?
> > >> My quote was like $1,800 for three years coverage. I know I'm going to
> > have
> > >> my car for at least 4 more years and was just wondering if any one else
> > has
> > >> one of these warranties or what anyone has heard about them. As always,
> > >> THANKS GUYS
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 22:05:14 -0700
From: "Sue Smith" <saintsue@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: 15G turbo questions

How much boost would my stock 9b(s), bored out to fit a 15G compressor
wheel(s) be able to hold to redline?  I really need to know for sure
immediately since I will be either getting this done or buying something
like the DR650s (9b with 15G turbine & compressor wheels).   Would my EGTs
be different at the same psi depending on which one I got?  Everyone w/ 15Gs
(especially using the 9b core) please tell me what kind of boost they can
hold to redline.

_______________________________________________
Why pay for something you could get for free?
NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 20:46:31 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe

I have the same problem, a little bit of oil gets spit out of the blitz BOV
every so often.  Also, my dipstick is getting dislodged.  Would that cause a
boost leak?  Anyways, my new engine and GT-PRO turbos have less than 5k
miles on them so I wouldn't expect that they would have problems yet.  Would
a breather/catch can solve this problem?  If so, how do I implement this as
I'm not too familiar with how they are hooked up in the engine.

Thanks,
CM


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:03:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe

I would invest in a compression/leak down test.

You shouldnt under ANY circumstances be tossing your dipstick out.

When I did that on my Supra (MA70), I discovered three cracked pistons
(still in one piece tho) and one really scored cylinder.

Also was generating tons of blowby, and would fill up the IC with oil
enough to percolate it into the intake too.

On Mon, 28 Aug 2000, Chris Maxwell wrote:

> I have the same problem, a little bit of oil gets spit out of the blitz BOV
> every so often.  Also, my dipstick is getting dislodged.  Would that cause a
> boost leak?  Anyways, my new engine and GT-PRO turbos have less than 5k
> miles on them so I wouldn't expect that they would have problems yet.  Would
> a breather/catch can solve this problem?  If so, how do I implement this as
> I'm not too familiar with how they are hooked up in the engine.
>
> Thanks,
> CM
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
| Get your FREE Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
|   accounts@speedtoys.com.  Include preferred name and     |
| password (hey..its free, no fancy CGI passwd thingie here |
|                plus a 40Mb quota to boot).                |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 23:14:53 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 15G turbo questions

> How much boost would my stock 9b(s), bored out
> to fit a 15G compressor wheel(s) be able to
> hold to redline?  I really need to know for sure
> immediately since I will be either getting this
> done or buying something like the DR650s (9b
> with 15G turbine & compressor wheels).   Would
> my EGTs be different at the same psi depending
> on which one I got?  Everyone w/ 15Gs
> (especially using the 9b core) please tell me
> what kind of boost they can hold to redline.

As far as I can tell, that's all a 15G is - just a larger compressor wheel
in a bored out 9b housing.  The exhaust side looks identical to the stock
turbos to my untrained eye.  ...At least on my "15G's".  I couldn't tell a
difference between the housings at all and only the compressor side wheel
looked different - much more aggressive.

My 15G's hold 22 psi to redline.  I haven't tried to go higher than that,
and I wouldn't recommend running higher than 15 psi on anything less than
100+ octane race fuel for safety's sake.  If you want to run more boost than
that, you are going to need forged pistons as recommended by several people
on this list who know about such things.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:07:59 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe

>What did you find for a cause in this case?  I found the same thing in
>mine, oil
>has pushed thru the intercooler line all the way up to the oil dipstick so
>far.
>I thought it was from the turbo, but am relieved to find that it was
>coming from
>the intake.  Now, what is causing it to feed back into the intake??

In my case it was high pressure in the crankcase caused by the pressure
that passed by the pistons ! This because a lot rings and two landrings
where broken. A compression test will show any bad sign sign (hopefully not).

A side note: The first time we thought of a problem was on the dyno as the
oil temp that was pushed into the dipstick line popped off and oil got
sprayed to the windshield (nice !). Another time the dipstick got pushed
out under the hood at full speed and high boost (above 1 bar). The same
also happend to a car who had no compression problems just a high crankcase
pressure. He made an engine flush and went to 0W30 oil from Castrol and
everything was fine then.

As the oil is doing bad in the intake (lowering octane = higher danger for
detonation) I highly recommend a small oil catch can between the PCV valve
and the intake trakt. The one from Cusco is the best thing one can get but
damn expensive (dunno why). I have one from a cart (yes, right) and I just
try to cut it as it is somewhat large. A transparent one made would be nice
to see how much oil is pushed out :) Any pics or sources of cheaper catch
cans are welcome.

Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 06:09:22 -0400
From: Eric J Totten <spankis@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: My '91 Stealth runs great (as long as my foot is on the gas)

My Stealth had the SAME exact problem. Only it occured after i had put a
new battery in and i had to keep the AC on HIGH in order to keep the car
running until i had it checked.
After some computer checks nothing was wrong. The mechanic cracked open
the throttle body and noticed it was FILTHY, god knows when last checked.
However he cleaned it out and my car runs GREAT.

To those who asked me how much it cost me, I still have not got the
bill.......}:(

Eric T.
'91 Stealth ES DOHC


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 18:09:56 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe

> I have the same problem, a little bit of oil gets spit out of the blitz
BOV
> every so often.  Also, my dipstick is getting dislodged.

Not a good sign !

> Would that cause a boost leak?  Anyways, my new engine and GT-PRO
> turbos have less than 5k miles on them so I wouldn't expect that they
> would have problems yet.  Would a breather/catch can solve this
> problem?  If so, how do I implement this as
> I'm not too familiar with how they are hooked up in the engine.

You better talk with Brian from GT PRO (when he did the engine) about this
than think a breather can solve the problem. Even then the problem is still
there you just eliminated the symptons. Also better ask him to install a
catch can as he knows what it is and where to install.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #249
*********************