team3s
Sunday, August 27
2000
Volume 01 : Number
247
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 25 Aug 2000 15:44:42 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Question regarding upgrading 1st gen brakes to 2nd gen brakes (Rears
only)
I remember reading somewhere that you could upgrade your rear
brakes on a
1st gen 3S by getting a set of second generation rear brakes
calipers and
rotors. Does anyone know if this is true.
I was
able to pick up a set of dual piston rear calipers off a Stealth TT
and
before I take advantage of the group discount going on right now
on
Porterfield brakes I wanted to double check to make sure this was
correct,
that all I need to do is replace the first gen rear claipers and
rotors with
2nd gen calipers and rotors to upgrade my rear
brakes.
Thanks in advance,
Dave Best
3Si #62
http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 15:46:57
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Roger do you have the AAM dyno sheet copied yet?
Ack! I'm
not sure if I made an error somewhere, but I haven't yet had my car
dyno'd
yet. With money being a little tight, I'd like to 'tune' it a bit
first
so I can be sure to get the most out of a dyno run.
Sorry for
any confusion,
Jason
Roger Gerl wrote:
> >I know a while
back you said that someone sent you a copy of their dyno
>
>sheet. You said the curve was interesting. Do you have this up
somewhere?
> >I checked your website, but did not find it there.
Thanks
>
> Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com> is a member and has
some slips. I never
> got a scan or picture to compare yet
:-((
>
> I have to check back with my lib at home but I can't
remember that I ever
> have seen any slip from the guys who dynoed the car
at AAM.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 16:56:36
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: stock boost guage or overboost
I have a 95 VR-4 and it maxes out
the gauge as well. These cars are
supposed to only boost 12 PSI.
Even with the stock solenoid, my A-pillar
gauge will show a peak of almost 14
PSI as does the AVCr (disconnected the
solenoid for warranty work). I
think that the interior gauge is just
inaccurate thats all.
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: brandon thomas <
a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, August 25, 2000 6:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: stock boost guage or
overboost
>I am still trying to figure out my backfire/studdering
problem. Some one
>mentioned that it sounds like overboost. When I hop on
it I max out the
>stock boost guage which I thought was normal for a stock
Vr4. My mechanic
>has a vacume/boost guage that only goes up to 10psi
would this work to see
>if I am stock. Isn't stock boost 9-9.5 so if it
maxes out the guage I know
>there is a leak in one of the vacume hoses,
right? I just spent $7000+ on
my
>motor and would hate to see it go
down the drain from detonation. What does
>detonation feel and sound
like?
>________________________________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 23:33:26
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Roger do you have the AAM dyno sheet copied yet?
>
Ack! I'm not sure if I made an error somewhere, but I haven't yet had
my
car
> dyno'd yet. With money being a little tight, I'd like to
'tune' it a bit
first
> so I can be sure to get the most out of a dyno
run.
Jason, the confusion was on my side. I just found the posts where
you said
that you saw several cars dynoed at AAM but not yours. Sorry, I
mixed this
up .. but why not stealing a slip the next time, hehe.
I'm
still trying to find this information somewhere on my overfilled disks.
I'll
let ya know if I find something :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 19:59:13
CDT
From: "Danny Erick" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stock ground effects question.
Hi guys,
Is it possible to take
the side flares, and front bumbper of a same year
3000GT and bolt them onto
a Stealth? Thanks!
Dan Erick
92 Stealth R/T
TT
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 20:05:36
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock ground effects question.
This is very very possible even
with different years of the cars. Very Very
few differences exist
between any model years of the cars
'91-'93 are all identical mounting
locations
'94-'99 are all identical mounting locations
All years have
identical mounting locations for the side skirts and rear
bumper.
I also
believe if you feel like it - you can even convert a
'91-'93
hood/headlights/front bumper to the '94 style or vice versa.
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Danny Erick
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 7:59 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Stock ground effects question.
Hi guys,
Is it possible to
take the side flares, and front bumbper of a same year
3000GT and bolt them
onto a Stealth? Thanks!
Dan Erick
92 Stealth R/T
TT
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 13:35:27
-0700
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TCM Trouble
Mitsubishi TCMs have the same problems as
ECUs.The capacitors leak and need
to be replaced,the tracks underneath
corrode and need to be strapped.1 hours
work max by any competent
technician.
Steve Cooper
- -----Original Message-----
From:
PsuKim@aol.com <
PsuKim@aol.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, 25 August 2000 04:54
Subject: Team3S: TCM Trouble
>I
recently purchased a '92 300GT SL and I am having trouble with my
TCM
>(Transmission Computer Module). It's intermittently in limp
mode.
>Otherwise, it runs great. Can you tell me how much I should
expect to pay
to
>have this fixed? Thanks in
advance!
>~Kim
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 21:43:53
EDT
From: "brandon thomas" <
a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe
I took of my y-pipe tonight and
found oil in it. I traced it back through
the intercooler and its seems to
be comming out the back turbo. Would this
oil cause the backfiring and
studdering my car does under full boost? If it
is my turbo sould I rebuild
both of them, only the bad one, get them
upraded, or buy used ones? I am on
a tight budget after rebuilding the
engine so if anybody knows of some cheap
turbos or any other options I would
apreciate it.
Thanks
Brandon
Thomas
1992 Silver VR4
1991 Red
SL
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 20:56:30
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe
> I took of my y-pipe
tonight and found oil in it. I
> traced it back through the intercooler
and its seems
> to be comming out the back turbo. Would this oil
>
cause the backfiring and studdering my car does
> under full boost? If it
is my turbo sould I rebuild
> both of them, only the bad one, get them
upraded,
> or buy used ones? I am on a tight budget after
>
rebuilding the engine so if anybody knows of some
> cheap turbos or any
other options I would
> apreciate it.
Yes, if oil is making its way
into the intake it will reduce the effective
octane of the fuel and can cause
detonation, which would seem like
stuttering if severe enough.
I'd
upgrade the turbos if you think you ever would do it in the future.
A
turbo swap isn't something you would want to do twice if it could
be
avoided.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 19:59:49
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: only getting worse! oil in y-pipe
How much oil. The
consensus seems to be that most people have at least a
little bit of oil in
the pipes leading from the rear turbo. Is there a lot
of oil residue
near the throttle body end of the y-pipe or is it mostly
confined to the
intercooler pipes?
Chris
92 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 21:40:38
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Blitz BOV adjustment - Boost Leak
There is an adjustment screw on top of
the Blitz BOV and I never touched but
now that I've determined I have a boost
leak, I want to know if maybe the
BOV isn't adjusted right. What does
screwing it in/out do to performance?
Here's my situation. I just
installed a profec and wanted to see if my new
355 turbos can hold .9 bar
boost till redline like I would expect them to
do. So I go out for some
shakedown runs with my friend and he tells me that
boost is held at .8 - .9
bar until about 5500 rpm where it quickly begins to
fall to .4 bar.
Boost leak? I've checked the hoses, those aren't the
problem. So
that leaves the intake plenum and BOV. I'm going to make a
thorough
check of the plenum tomorrow because I'm almost positive that the
problem
lies there because now I have a little bit of hesitation in the
lower revs.
Although I still want to know what this adjustment screw does on
the
BOV.
Thanks,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 17:47:50
-0700
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ARC setup (was : Need Help)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, 24 August 2000 12:21
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC setup (was : Need
Help)
>
>>The O2 sensor drives the ARM and when the O2
sensor is faulty the ARM
gives
>>either no reading or incorrect
reading.
>
>Hehe,yes I know this for sure. But is the second O2
sensor ok ? This was my
>question.
>
There is definately only one
o2 sensor
>> > > The tps switch voltages were
>>
> > correct at 0 volts idle and I think 4 or somthing off
idle.
>> >
>> >Measured with the ARC attached
?
>> >
>
Ive remeasured the ips voltages and they era as
above same regardless of arc
connected or not
>
>>The ARC
does not effect the TPS voltages.
>
>No, not the TPS voltage but the
IPS voltage ! Again, is the IPS voltage
>measured with the ARC attached or
not ? Sorry for being that unclear in my
>questions !
>
>>
>It works better with the inverted signal but one can do this in the
ARC
>> >itselfs.
>>So how can it be done in the ARC
itself?
>
>If you have the latest version it is already
done.
>
>>When you suggest adjusting the TPS to below 0.5, do you
mean the TP sensor
>>or the TP switch? (idle switch)
>
>TPS
is TPS and IPS is IPS and both are related together. When adjusting
the
>TPS the IPS is also adjusted and the behaviour when opening the
throttle is
>important.
>
ok I never thought about adjusting
the tps sensor.I just measured it at idle
and got .707volts ,sounds
like I need to adjust this to below .5volt.Its
just that the bottom bolt is a
bit hard to undo.
>>I've got stock injectors and hybrid
turbos (compressors from Mirage
Cyborg)
>>running 15psi max but the
tubos will hold 12psi to red line.
>
>13g ones with stock injectors
... ok. Worked for me several months (the
>whole winter) without major
problems)
>
>>Sorry Roger, all japanese GTO's only use one O2
sensor and it is located
>>under the car where the two exhaust pipes
join together (at least the
first
>>generation cars
do)
>
>So, have you checked for the other "possible" sensors in the
O2 sensor
>housings (flanged to the turbos exhaust outlet) ? It sounds to
me like you
>really have a late 1990 model as the Sigma engines just got
the turbos then
>and one O2 sensor in the downpipe was used. I wouldn't be
surprised if you
>tell me that it is only a FWD with turbos ;-) I wonder
how the exhaust
>flange to the turbo looks like in the rear ! It is even
possible that your
>car doesn't have precats at all. Can you check this
(pics would help,
hehe).
>
I missed the rest of the details
before.the car is a 93 awd tt.when it
arrived from Japan it had the full
exhaust with precats & cats,they were
about the first thing to go,now a
custom built pipe,no such thing in New
Zealand as emmision
laws.
>BTW, I had to open also the lower screw of the TPS to be
able to adjust the
>voltage to lower than 0.5V. The voltage has been
measured with the
>datalogger directly from the ECUs
readings.
>
>Good luck
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>thanks
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 12:21:06
EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Subject: Re: Team3S: Power window and antenae
>Yes that was for a
dealer to replace the whole thing. The $60 from
Crutchfield
>was also
for a part to replace the whole thing and I did the labor
myself.
>Mark
I see, in that case you got a big savings - what's
mitsubishi charge for the
motor, something like $300?
P.S. Apologize
for my late replies, I haven't checked my mail for a few days
- - haven't
had a chance to.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 12:59:41
-0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Tensioner installation errors, etc.
Wellllllllll,,,,, you may
recall my earlier posts concerning cam timing
problems after I had a new
water pump installed. The first time I got the
car back with the rear intake
cam 5 teeth off from where it should have
been and the crank off at least 1
tooth. The second time all timing marks
were correct initially, but about a
week after getting the car back the
timing belt slipped 3 teeth on the same
intake cam and I had to call off a
trip and take the car back to the dealer
again. Today, the dealer called
and told me that they had discovered that the
tensioner had not been
properly installed and that they had the timing belt
and intake plenum off
and I should come take a look with them using the
boroscope (I told them I
wanted to do this when they got to this point). So,
off I went. My
discovery about what was done wrong on the tensioner may be of
interest to
some people on this list for future reference when they have
their timing
belt replaced. The boroscope examination raised some questions
about
potential internal damage from the valves hitting the pistons
that
hopefully some of you can provide some useful comments and suggestions
on.
First, the tensioner.
The timing belt tensioner on the DOHC
Stealth (and I assume the 3000 also)
revolves around 2 axes of rotation, one
at the center around which it
free-wheels while the engine runs and the other
eccentric around which it
revolves when the proper tension is applied to the
timing belt. Once that
tension is applied, the second axis of rotation is
"locked down", I
believe by tightening a bolt. To do this correctly requires
a special
"two-pin" tool that is used to hold the eccentric rotation in the
correct
orientation while the tensioner is installed, and then is removed so
that
the proper tension can be applied by rotating the tensioner around
the
eccentric axis using a torque wrench (I believe 42 ft-lbs of torque is
the
correct tension, but check your manuals, my memory could be wrong).
The
dealer, of course, did not have the special tool (but they do now)
and
neither mechanic that worked on the car realized the importance of
getting
the eccentric rotation correct. They both just reinstalled the
tensioner
as it came out of the car when the belt was removed and I think
used a
lever bar to rotate the entire tensioner assembly so the bolt holes
would
line up. The result was a loose timing belt that resulted in
slippage at
some point.
When I took the car back in after canceling my
trip, I gave the mechanic
my service manuals, which he read and, as a result,
discovered his error.
So now we know how to properly install the tensioner.
It occurs to me that
other shop/dealership mechanics may also be unaware of
the importance of
doing this installation as specified in the manual and also
may not have
the special tool needed to do it. So, the moral of the story is,
if you
take your car into have the timing belt or water pump replaced,
question
the service manager and the mechanic to be sure they understand how
the
installation of the tensioner is done. You may save yourself a lot
of
grief. I'll also add that the mechanic said he had done a number
of
Stealths improperly in the past and must have been lucky that
nothing
slipped, so just because the car runs properly doesn't mean that
the
tensioner was done right. This could, of course, lead to future
problems
at some point.
Anyone who wants to add to what I've said
above, or correct any errors in
my description of the proper installation,
please feel free to do so. The
mechanic still has my manuals, so I'm doing
this from memory.
The boroscope adventure:
Aside from the wasted
time and the unpleasantness of having to deal with
the results of the error
made while servicing my Stealth, my main concern
has been whether or not any
internal damage was done to the engine, i.e.
did the valves tap the pistons
as a result of the cam timing errors. Part
of the agreement with the service
department where the work was and is
being done is that I would be able to
examine the valves and pistons and
that a leak-down test would be performed
on all cylinders. Today I was
able to do a boroscope examination with the
mechanic working on the car.
What we found on the back bank of cylinders was
that the piston and valves
on the rear bank driver's side of the engine were
clean as a whistle with
no evidence of any damage. The middle cylinder showed
a little carbon
buildup but otherwise looked OK. The rear bank cylinder
on the passenger's
side had considerable carbon buildup and the sparkplug was
wet when it was
removed. Also, there was an area on one of the valves where
the carbon
buildup had been broken away suggesting, I guess, the possibility
that
that valve might have tapped the piston. The main question in my mind
was
why so much carbon buildup in that cylinder? I should also mention
that
all the spark plugs on the rear bank had been running rich (Haven't
seen
the ones from the front bank yet).
I'd appreciate any suggestions
as to what these results might suggest (if
anything) in regard to valve
damage resulting from the cam timing errors.
Just as a matter of historical
information on the engine, the oil and
filter have been changed every 3000
miles since new and the exhaust
doesn't smoke.
Thanks in advance for
any responses,
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 07:57:06
-0400 (EDT)
From: Matthew Hull <
mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: A'Pexi Digital Boost Controller
Hello all,
I am looking at
what kind of boost controller to get. I am stuck
on either the Apexi
AVC-R or the Blitz. I have seen the Blitz in a car
and know a few
places to mount it but I can't seem to get a view of the
AVC-R in a situation
where I can see its actual size. Does anyone have
this sytem in there
car or knows where I can find a picture of it mounted
in someones car?
I think I would prefer it to the Blitz but I can't think
of how it will look
in my car. THANKS
- -Matt
94 Stealth r/t
tt
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#247
*********************