team3s
Friday, August 25
2000
Volume 01 : Number
246
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 24 Aug 2000 12:28:59 -0400
From: "LabRat" <
labrat101@home.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Transfer case help please?
Ken, thanks very much for the info,
The $2000 spent by another member made
for a very restless night last
night... I just paid off the rebuild and mod
work and less than 1500
miles later this. $850 and a Sat afternoon sounds
very reasonable. If
you mies my earlier answer, I cannot roll the car
in
neutral.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 11:38 AM
To:
labrat101@home.comCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer case help please?
Jeff gave great instructions
for checking the transfer case. Just see if
the
car rolls in
neutral. If it doesn't, it is either the transfer case or
rear
differential. If it is indeed the transfer case, you can buy a
refurbished
unit
(new shaft, bearings, seals) from MD Auto in San
Diego, 619-390-0450, for
about
$850. It is an easy DIY replacement
and should only take an hour or so of
labor. It pains me to see Moe
spent $2K to have his fixed :(. Please,
before
you spend any money
on your car, run the problem by this list...you'll save
big
bucks and many
headaches.
> My transfer case has been leaking oil. I had it
checked a week ago and I
> was told it was full\topped off, Anyway I
drive home fine with no
problems
> but tonight went to go for a ride
and couldnt move the car.
>
> Clutch seems fine, when I engage
the clutch it seems as if the car has
its
> brakes on, it trys to
move but dosent want to, There are some god awful
> noises coming
from the transmission\ transfer case area. metal to
metal
> squeeks and groans and metalic pings
> I can shift
fine.
> The car trys to move but something is grabbing \ stopping
it.
> I cannot get under the car to check the transfer case
fluids and it
surely
> is not going to be driven the way it
is.
> Does this problem sound familiar to anyone?
>
Suggestions?
>
> On a side note I just had the engine rebuilt and
installed a couple weeks
> ago, There was NO transfer case leak prior to
this and the shop guys said
it
> was minor and they had tightened the
bolts up.
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 10:32:38
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer case help please?
Jeff and I just replaced the
clutch in my '92 RT/TT. It's all documented
with pics at
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/0-frames.htm
I'm
bringing this up because part of the procedure is to drop the transfer
case
which is actually pretty easy. Thumb through the instructions, see
if they
help, but as stated before, it is definately a DIY job that won't
take very
long.
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang (with primer
now!)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "LabRat" <
labrat101@home.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 24, 2000 10:28 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transfer case help
please?
> Ken, thanks very much for the info, The $2000 spent by
another member made
> for a very restless night last night... I just
paid off the rebuild and
mod
> work and less than 1500 miles later
this. $850 and a Sat afternoon sounds
> very reasonable. If you mies
my earlier answer, I cannot roll the car in
>
neutral.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 11:38 AM
>
To:
labrat101@home.com> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case help please?
>
>
> Jeff
gave great instructions for checking the transfer case. Just see
if
> the
> car rolls in neutral. If it doesn't, it is either
the transfer case or
rear
> differential. If it is indeed the
transfer case, you can buy a
refurbished
> unit
> (new
shaft, bearings, seals) from MD Auto in San Diego, 619-390-0450,
for
> about
> $850. It is an easy DIY replacement and should
only take an hour or so of
> labor. It pains me to see Moe spent $2K
to have his fixed :(. Please,
> before
> you spend any money
on your car, run the problem by this list...you'll
save
> big
>
bucks and many headaches.
>
> > My transfer case has been leaking
oil. I had it checked a week ago and
I
> > was told it was
full\topped off, Anyway I drive home fine with no
> problems
>
> but tonight went to go for a ride and couldnt move the car.
>
>
> > Clutch seems fine, when I engage the clutch it seems as
if the car has
> its
> > brakes on, it trys to move but
dosent want to, There are some god
awful
> > noises coming
from the transmission\ transfer case area. metal
to
metal
> > squeeks and groans and metalic pings
> >
I can shift fine.
> > The car trys to move but something is grabbing \
stopping it.
> > I cannot get under the car to check the
transfer case fluids and it
> surely
> > is not going to be
driven the way it is.
> > Does this problem sound familiar to
anyone?
> > Suggestions?
> >
> > On a side note
I just had the engine rebuilt and installed a couple
weeks
> > ago,
There was NO transfer case leak prior to this and the shop guys
said
>
it
> > was minor and they had tightened the bolts up.
>
>
--
> Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General
Atomics
> San Diego
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 13:02:56
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer case help please?
FWIW, I bought a "rebuilt"
transfer case from MD Auto last fall.. I've only
put about 4000 miles
on the car since then, but it seems to be just fine..
btw, if your
transfer case did just happen to go bad AFTER you got home,
be VERY
thankful.. having all 4 wheels lock up at highway speed is
generally a bad thing.. take a look at
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/
and click on the transfercase - FUBAR link.. I was very
lucky too that
nothing catastrophic happened while driving..
Ken is
absolutely right on the DIY.. I had mine done at a shop too, but
after
seeing how simple it was, I would have done it at home..
btw, is there
any chance the shift linkage got jammed? if it's not aligning
properly
it might be trying to engage 2 gears at once.. did that to my
78 Capri
once..
ADMINS: the Team3S website seems to be hosed? I
just get a "T" on the
index
page..
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4
=
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
- --------
+> Jeff gave great
instructions for checking the transfer case. Just see if th
e
+>
car rolls in neutral. If it doesn't, it is either the transfer case or
rear
+> differential. If it is indeed the transfer case, you can buy
a refurbished
unit
+> (new shaft, bearings, seals) from MD Auto
in San Diego, 619-390-0450, for a
bout
+> $850. It is an easy DIY
replacement and should only take an hour or so of
+> labor. It pains
me to see Moe spent $2K to have his fixed :(. Please, befo
re
+>
you spend any money on your car, run the problem by this list...you'll save
big
+> bucks and many headaches.
+>
+> > My transfer
case has been leaking oil. I had it checked a week ago and I
+> >
was told it was full\topped off, Anyway I drive home fine with no
problem
s
+> > but tonight went to go for a ride and couldnt move
the car.
+> >
+> > Clutch seems fine, when I engage the
clutch it seems as if the car has it
s
+> > brakes on, it trys
to move but dosent want to, There are some god awful
+> > noises
coming from the transmission\ transfer case area. metal to
metal
+> > squeeks and groans and metalic pings
+> > I
can shift fine.
+> > The car trys to move but something is grabbing \
stopping it.
+> > I cannot get under the car to check the
transfer case fluids and it sure
ly
+> > is not going to be driven
the way it is.
+> > Does this problem sound familiar to
anyone?
+> > Suggestions?
+> >
+> > On a side
note I just had the engine rebuilt and installed a couple weeks
+> >
ago, There was NO transfer case leak prior to this and the shop guys said
it
+> > was minor and they had tightened the bolts up.
+>
+> --
+> Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
+>
+> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
+> General
Atomics
+> San Diego
+>
+> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
- --------
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 13:08:06
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transfer case help please?
- ----- Original Message ----- From:
"Dave Monarchi"
<
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
>
btw, if your transfer case did just happen to go bad AFTER you
got
home,
> be VERY thankful.. having all 4 wheels lock up
at highway speed is
> generally a bad thing.. take a look
at
>
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/Your
page is also on the Team3S website, subtitled "What a transfer case
should
NOT look like":
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQbadxfercase.htm-
------snip-------------
> ADMINS: the Team3S website seems to be
hosed? I just get a "T" on
the
> index page..
That
might be happening if you are following the OLD instructions for
the CAPS
program; the rest of the site seems to be OK from here.
Access the new
CAPS page from the Team3S Home Page, under "Finding Any
Part for Your
Car". Contact Vineet if theres a problem with content, or
Jeff Mohler
if you get the mysterious "T" again. I'm the culprit if a
link back to
"home" doesn't work - email privately, if
so.
Best,
Forrest
Team3S Home Page:
www.stealth-3000gt.st***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 14:36:49
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Y pipe
fix
In the predawn dimness of this young Century, someone out there
scanned me a
photo of an aluminimum yoke he had made for fixing the Y
pipe blow off
problem, which we all (will ) encounter under high
boost. Are you still
out there and did you fabricate any more?? It
seems like a good idea, and an
inexpensive fix. It certainly forstalls
aftermarket full replacements if you
have them available, unless of course
one wants to have a shiny or colorful
Y pipe. Are you still a
member??
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 16:11:40
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fw: For Sale: 99VR4 5000mi Daytona Mitsu
Hey, Team,
Forwarded as a
courtesy-- This just came across my desk from a salesman
at Daytona
Mitsu, details below. For reference, here are the prices for
a '99 VR-4
from our Team3S FAQ Price Page:
Cost New $44,600 Wholesale
$27,635 Retail $34,369
Caveat Emptor.
Forrest
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "DAYTONA MITSUBISHI" <
mherman@daytonamitsu.com>
Sent:
Thursday, August 24, 2000 3:01 PM
Subject: VR 4
My name is Mike Herman
and I work at Daytona Mitsubishi in Daytona FL.
We just received a 99 Black
on Black VR 4 with only 5,000 miles on it.
It has never been titled so will
be sold as new. This is quite possibly
the only new VR 4 left in the
country. We are asking $47,995 for it. I
just thought you guys
might know someone who would be interested in it.
If so, please contact me by
E-mail or phone at (904) 252-7000 and ask
for Mike Herman.
Thanks.
Mike
Herman
Daytona
Mitsubishi
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 20:57:32
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Update:
Team3S: Turbo/Boost Hiss
Hello again...
Well after playing around
tonight, I found that the source of the oil in
my intercooler lines is not
from my turbo, but from the rear cam cover
line. More investigation to
come on that. Regarding this issue
though...
After reassembling all
the air intakes, I took it for another test drive
to see if I had fixed my
Turbo Hiss...
Well, it was a quiet night tonight, and as I revved slowly up
through
1st and 2nd into 3k-4k rpm range, with negative boost (so to speak)
I
noticed my hiss...
Hmm.. any other suggestions? It really is only
noticeable under load,
and seems to be _related_ to vacuum/boost/throttle
position, but its
hard to specify.
Thanks!
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
New Getrag, RPS Turbo Clutch
Snake Eyes,
K&N, plates 007KEN
- -------- Original Message
--------
Subject: Team3S: Turbo/Boost Hiss
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 21:41:33
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: Team3S
Stealth <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Hello
everyone!
I've been hearing a hiss for sometime now, I think since a
dealership
(that I now disown) replaced my tranny, it has been
occurring.
Essentially, it is only present when the boost gauge (stock)
raises
above zero, and is directly proportional to boost in amplitude.
I had a
couple of places look at it, and one even said he 'pressurized
the
system' and found no leaks. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
New Getrag, RPS Turbo Clutch
Snake Eyes,
K&N, plates
007KEN
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 00:43:04
-0500
From: "Doug Garrott" <
dgarrott@texas.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Sick VR4
I'm a long time listener and occasional replier, but now I
have a problem.
On the way home this afternoon I shifted into third to
pass a slow truck,
and the engine stuttered and refused to make more that 5
psi of boost (per
pillar gauge).
The thing ran relatively smooth as
long as I didn't ask it for boost. (Did
you know that an unboosted VR4
has less spunk that a base 3K?)
I was only about 25 mile from home,
so I limped home without boost.
When I opened the hood, there was a
smell like over heated AT fluid.
The exhaust note sounds like an outboard
boat exhaust.
I looked at the visible vacuum and intake hoses, but saw
nothing loose.
Anything I can do before submitting my friend to the abuse
of a dealer's
shop?
I've not been able to find a performance mechanic out
here in the country.
TIA
Doug G
'93 VR4
(Sick)
K&N
real boost gauge (installed 14 months ago)
Silicone
vacuum hoses
Fittipaldi Wheels
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 02:50:43
-0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Y pipe fix
I'm not sure exactly what you're talking about, but
the way I kept mine from
blowing off is I got a t-bolt clamp from
www.ctcmotorsports.com.
Their
t-bolts are different from standard t-bolts in that they have a high
rate
spring between the nut and collar, keeping constant pressure no matter
what.
They don't have them on their website but do stock them, and
running
19-21psi boost on my stock turbos, I haven't ever blown off my Ypipe
after
switching to this clamp. For a quick cheap fix, I'd give them a
call and
ask for Kyle Thurber. Mention my Spyder and he should know
what you're
talking about. I think the correct clamp size is
2.75"
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GSX
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 24, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: Y pipe fix
>
In the predawn dimness of this young Century, someone out there scanned
me
a
> photo of an aluminimum yoke he had made for fixing the Y
pipe blow off
> problem, which we all (will ) encounter under high
boost. Are you still
> out there and did you fabricate any more?? It
seems like a good idea, and
an
> inexpensive fix. It certainly
forstalls aftermarket full replacements if
you
> have them available,
unless of course one wants to have a shiny or
colorful
> Y pipe.
Are you still a member??
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 03:58:15
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Sick VR4
It sounds, yet again, like a non-connected
Intercooler/Turbo/Intake hose
mounting problem, although it could be
worse.
One thing I would check for sure just to be safe is the
cam-timing. This
can be done by removing the cam-gear covers on the
driver side of the
engine.... Then, look at the service marks on the
rear of the gears. You
may have to turn the engine over a few times to
get them to line up
correctly, but it one lines up and the other doesn't, or
two or thre of
them, line up, and the rest don't, then you have a slipped
timing belt. I
only mention the timing belt because of the exhaust
sound (and to be safe
safe of course - you wouldn't want to drive if
something is wrong here)
Also, I would definitely check out around the
turbo oil and coolant feed
lines for drips.
And, my first suspicion of
course - double and triple check the intercooler
to turbo to intake to y-pipe
to throttle body tubing. If even one joint
came loose even a little
bit, it could be expanding when subjected to more
than 5 Lbs. of boost,
leaking metered air, and when the ECU dumps in the
extra fuel for the air
that escaped, you get the stumbling feeling...
I'm not sure what the
smell could be coming from - possibly a dripping x-fer
case or engine
oil???
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Doug Garrott
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 12:43 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Sick VR4
I'm a long time listener and occasional
replier, but now I have a problem.
On the way home this afternoon I
shifted into third to pass a slow truck,
and the engine stuttered and refused
to make more that 5 psi of boost (per
pillar gauge).
The thing ran
relatively smooth as long as I didn't ask it for boost. (Did
you know
that an unboosted VR4 has less spunk that a base 3K?)
I was only about 25
mile from home, so I limped home without boost.
When I opened the
hood, there was a smell like over heated AT fluid.
The exhaust note
sounds like an outboard boat exhaust.
I looked at the visible vacuum and
intake hoses, but saw nothing loose.
Anything I can do before
submitting my friend to the abuse of a dealer's
shop?
I've not been able
to find a performance mechanic out here in the country.
TIA
Doug
G
'93 VR4 (Sick)
K&N
real boost gauge (installed 14 months
ago)
Silicone vacuum hoses
Fittipaldi Wheels
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 07:53:21
EDT
From:
PsuKim@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: TCM Trouble
I recently purchased a '92 300GT SL and I am having
trouble with my TCM
(Transmission Computer Module). It's
intermittently in limp mode.
Otherwise, it runs great. Can you
tell me how much I should expect to pay to
have this fixed? Thanks in
advance!
~Kim
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 12:13:25
GMT
From: "marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 2 question 1. Outer Door Trim and 2. Car Covers with security?
Hi
All,
I was hoping someone might be
able to help me. I have 2 questions,
1. Does anybody know how to replace
the gray trim, which sits above the
paint of the front door on the driver
side? I notice today that it was
coming apart. In addition,
would you know the part number off hand and what
it might go for? Also
is it hard to install, I believe all you have to do
is remove the inter door
trim and if I’m not mistaken, clips hold the outer
trim in? It does
not look that expensive, but then again I thought the
headlamp assembly
would be cheap $540.00, yikes I have a 94 3000 GT SL.
2. In addition,
does anyone know if someone makes some sort of lock for a
car cover?
The reason why I ask is that, my car will be with me at school
and from what
I saw last year of people walking home after the bars close
for some reason
they like to mess with peoples cars. My car has been with
me at school
before (3 years) and I never had any problems (Knock on wood!)
with people
messing with it, other then the car alarm here and there
(aftermarket). My car is always park right outside my window or my
roommates, but this year it is on the other side of the apartment
building.
I worried that someone will find it funny to steal the
cover. I’ve search
www.carparts.com
and none of there car covers said anything about security.
Also any
brands that hold up real good in snow and rain. I go to Grad
School at
the University of Iowa, so it can get bad in the Midwest when snow
hits. In 1998, I went to Western Illinois University, which is in
Macomb,
Illinois that it took 3 days for other and me around me to get there
cars
out of the parking lot after we had about 3 feet of snow in less then
24
hours.
Thanks for taking the time to help me, I have a 94 red SL
that just hit
30,000 miles and I want to keep it in good condition, just
like the rest of
us,
Thanks Again,
Marc
Augelli
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 08:07:36
-0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jeffrey@omega-sw.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 2 question 1. Outer Door Trim and 2. Car Covers with
security?
Marc;
check California car covers
www.calcarcover.comThey make
custom covers and also have cable locks. These locks may be
adaptable
to your cover.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth<snip>
2.
In addition, does anyone know if someone makes some sort of lock for a
car
cover?
<snip>
Thanks Again,
Marc
Augelli
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 11:20:31
EDT
From:
Playenfun@aol.comSubject: Team3S: clutch
question??
HI everyone. I was driving home this morning, i
tried to pass this car on the freeway at about 75 mph and the next thing i
noticed was that my RPMs were up pretty high. After that it seems like the
engine responds when i step on the gas, but not the speed. Could this be the
clutch? thanx in advance.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 08:34:11
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Porterfield Club Discount, from Starnet
Here is some info on the
Porterfield club discount for those who don't read the
Starnet
list...
> Subject: Re: Porterfield Group Buy
> Date: Thu, 24 Aug
2000 17:26:50 -0700
> From: "BLACKLIGHT" <
blacklight@planetice.net>
>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
>
> Hello,
> This is how the Porterfield club
discount can be taken advantage of.
>
> First - Go to the website,
find all the parts you want and get their part
> numbers (might want to
keep track of the price also).
>
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/>
> Second - Contact Porterfield via email with the list of parts you
want
> (remember cryo treatment is $40 per rotor)
> "Porterfield
Enterprises" <
timg@globalpac.com>
>
>
Third - Make sure when you contact them you tell them you are a 3Si
member
> with a club discount set up under Matt Nelson for 20% off, and
only order
> parts for 3000gt and stealth only! We do not want to abuse
this privilege.
> If you do need other rotors or pads, ask, they may be
willing to oblige.
>
> S&H will be normal charge, so the
discount only applies to parts.
>
> When they give you a total make
sure it includes the 20% off plus S&H
>
> Happy
braking!
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 17:39:23
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Roger do you have the AAM dyno sheet copied yet?
>I know a
while back you said that someone sent you a copy of their
dyno
>sheet. You said the curve was interesting. Do you have
this up somewhere?
>I checked your website, but did not find it
there. Thanks
Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com> is a member and has
some slips. I never
got a scan or picture to compare yet :-((
I have
to check back with my lib at home but I can't remember that I ever
have seen
any slip from the guys who dynoed the car at AAM.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 11:04:18
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield Club Discount, from Starnet
>> > with a
club discount set up under Matt Nelson for 20% off, and only order
>>
> parts for 3000gt and stealth only! We do not want to abuse
this
privilege.
>
>Argh, I need R4S pads for the Porsche calipers
!! As they are on the car
>now, do they also belong to 3000GT parts
?
>
Me too. I need pads for my Porsche calipers.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 17:41:42
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield Club Discount, from Starnet
> > with a club
discount set up under Matt Nelson for 20% off, and only order
> > parts
for 3000gt and stealth only! We do not want to abuse this
privilege.
Argh, I need R4S pads for the Porsche calipers !! As they are
on the car
now, do they also belong to 3000GT parts
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 14:05:44
EDT
From: "brandon thomas" <
a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: stock boost guage or overboost
I am still trying to figure out
my backfire/studdering problem. Some one
mentioned that it sounds like
overboost. When I hop on it I max out the
stock boost guage which I thought
was normal for a stock Vr4. My mechanic
has a vacume/boost guage that only
goes up to 10psi would this work to see
if I am stock. Isn't stock boost
9-9.5 so if it maxes out the guage I know
there is a leak in one of the
vacume hoses, right? I just spent $7000+ on my
motor and would hate to see
it go down the drain from detonation. What does
detonation feel and sound
like?
________________________________________________________________________
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End of team3s V1
#246
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