team3s
Wednesday, August 23
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
243
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Aug 2000 23:19:38 -0700
From: "Veilside GTO" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
Richard,
I am using the
PC680 for my VR4. It works fine. According to Chris Winkley,
It use to be the
Predator BP600. I believe he is still using it on his VR4.
Julian
Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle,
Washington
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Richard
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 8:14 AM
Cc: Team 3/S
List
Subject: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
Hi
Guys,
Anyone with the Odyssey battery. which battery do you use the
TC-680 or
the 925? Seems the 680 should be enough, but I am curious which one
most
of you use.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 01:56:59
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
>"From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
I will be installing either a
680, or an extremely small 12v battery
to
only start the car
with.
Contemplating not having a battery at all..just another 20-30lbs
I
dont
need at 140mph for 60 minutes."<
This won't work (more
than likely). I don't think the stock ignition
can still fire w/o the battery
along side the alternator/charging
circuit. The 680 BP/ODDESSY batteries are
tiny enough anyway :). My
talon won't run if I disconnect the battery, and
try revving it.
Vineet Singh - Talon doesn't run right now ANYWAY...
:)
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM -
Go Fast With Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:01:45
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: ARC setup (was : Need Help)
I think it's a good idea to change
the topic :)
>You know Matt you are absolutely right. The ARC2 taps
into the IPS
>wire (ECU pin 67) not the TPS wire (ECU pin 64). And I have
pointed
>this out to Roger also. The two (IPS and TPS) are of course
adjusted
>together as we have to move the same sensor housing. Roger
swears by
>the IPS less than 0.5 and I trust him on this.
Yes,
because any TPS reading above 0.5V didn't work on my car ! And I
always tell
about TPS due to the fact that IPS is not visible anywhere and
TPS can be
seen in the S-AVC-R or the datalogger easily.
>the info they gave me.
The contact's name at SplitSecond was Mark.
>Accel/idle: idle is low
voltage and not idle is high voltage (~5V),
>with a 1.5V threshhold. My
TMO reports 0.47V for my TPS (9%) and 95%
>(4.75V) at WOT. here is what
our ECU wants to see (from the manual).
>At idle, 0.3-1.0V from TPS and
0-1V from IPS. At WOT, 4.5-5.5V from
>TPS and 4V+ from IPS.
This is
the same I got from Eric Nist, the electrical head from SS. The
threshold is
not really working on our cars as the ARC seems to draw down
the voltage
when connected to the IPS. I measured the voltage in the ARC
and it was
different when I disconnected the wire to the ARC. So one can
call this a
problem but it works if TPS is set below 0.5V at idle.
>Pressure input
to the ECU: 4V nominal (~1 bar). My TMO reports 3.2V
>(0.8
bar).
Yes, mine is 0.9 bars
>Temp input to the ECU: 2.74 Ohm
nominal to ground (about 20ºC or
>68ºF). My TMO reports 1.99V or
96ºF.
Huh ?? Your reading is way too high and would cause the timing to
be less
advanced ! The 20°C is what is desired (20°C, 1bar ambient at
sealevel) and
this would give the most performance. If the temp output is
that high the
ECU reduces the timing by about 2-4 degrees to prevent knock.
Now, the good
thing is that you really see less knock but maybe there is
more room. I
already spoke with Eric about a variable temperature setting
because in
winter the ECU is not able to adapt and the behaviour is somewhat
annoying
when sitting in traffic (bumper to bumper driving). Hey, his
reminds me
that the ARC is in the car since a year now :) I will check back
when the
car is up and alive but I think I remember a temp of 24°C I've
converted
from the TMO reading.
I'm working on the temp thing as I
need it for the summer. I'm sure a
simple variable resistor will do the job
just havent had the chance to try
it out yet. I'm also considering a small
thermoresistor that will be
mounted at the airfilter providing the ECU the
correct temperature (as the
MAF doesn't have them anymore). BTW, this is
what the VPC does as it
doesn't do a lot if any to the mixture when temp
rises but the signal to
the ECU is changed to show the temp increase (in the
intake manifold). I
think this is not a bad idea to deliver the real
temperature of the air in
the y-pipe for the ECU, but it is possible
that it then highly retards the
timing when it sees 90°C (without WI !!!!!!)
at the throttle body ! The
desired temp shoudl always be below 50°C and best
results are at 39°C
(thank you WI !!!). When I'm able again to crawl under
the car I will get
the stuff ready soon and will then check this
out.
>that work for your car may be different. The ECU really should
not
>care at all if the TPS is 0.45 or 0.75 as the ECU's threshhold
is
>1.0V, at least that's what the manual says. :)
Yep, exactly.
The ECU is out of the problem loop here !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 01:07:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
Reeally? Damn POS
Mitsu's.
My Supra runs great W/O a battery. Been there..-done-
that.
On Wed, 23 Aug 2000, Vineet Singh (3S) wrote:
>
>"From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
>
> I will be
installing either a 680, or an extremely small 12v battery
> to
>
only start the car with.
>
> Contemplating not having a battery at
all..just another 20-30lbs I
> dont
> need at 140mph for 60
minutes."<
>
> This won't work (more than likely). I don't think
the stock ignition
> can still fire w/o the battery along side the
alternator/charging
> circuit. The 680 BP/ODDESSY batteries are tiny
enough anyway :). My
> talon won't run if I disconnect the battery, and
try revving it.
>
> Vineet Singh - Talon doesn't run right now
ANYWAY... :)
>
http://at.dsm.org - "Never
Lift To Shift!"
>
http://chi.dsm.org -
"ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With Class!"
>
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
-
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***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:16:31
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ARC settings (was : Need Help)
>I have the rev2 version of
the ARC2 and the TPS set to .55v. I couldn't
>get it to go any lower
than that. I noticed with my original settings
>(similar to Jeff's)
that the car idled a little high(900rpms) and rough.
I think Jeff and me
we both have the rev0 of the ARC. The differnece is the
way how Mid and
Accell work now.
>When I dialed it in with the settings from GT
PRO I had TONS of low end
>torque and NO problems off the line but
felt restricted in the higher rpms
>than it had in the past.
Too
lean !!!
> I was thinking of bumping the accel up to 1 or
2
>and tweaking the mid and low down again but now I'll have to wait
'till
>she's out of the shop.
The mid must never be changed. When
you followed the tuning instructions
then the mid is only set once. Maybe
over the time you can set it one click
higher or lower to check out the
behaviour but I always came back to the
original good setting. This because
the mid is used to adapt the behaviour
to the turbos size and must only be
changed when the turbos are different
or something has been done that
changed the spool up of the turbos (i.e.
gutting precats). Just an example.
I ran the ARC for months together with
the 360cc and then upgraded to the
720cc. The only settings I had to change
was the High (many clicks of
course) and only one or two click on the Low.
Car fired up and a little bit
fine tuning of the L and H and everything was
fine.
>Hopefully
that will be sooner than later. ie: something simple not busted
>timing
belt or holes in the pistons.
Of course, we keep our fingers
corssed.
>Yup, I set that myself to .450 but the car didn't like
it. It was very
>"jerky" at low speeds so I upped it to .750v where
it is happy.
> With it at
>.450 it seemed to be
affecting the low-end fuel trim value since Accel would
>affect the
mixture at cruise and I had all sorts of strange behavior
>off-idle.
At .750 at least the car is smooth and only idle is funky. The
>IPS
closes at idle and opens slightly off-idle, so that seems fine.
It
depends on the Revision of the ARC. On my Rev0 I have set Accell to +1
click, that's together with Low properly adjusted works almost perfect
(what is perfect ???)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 22:35:08
-0700
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ARC setup (was : Need Help)
Hello all from New
Zealand
I,ve had the ARC 2 in my car for about 3 months.I couldn't get it
to run
properly.The arm 1 wouldn't work either which didn't help.After a new
o2
sensor ,the arm 1 worked but I still thought the ARC 2 was wired
wrong
because the accel knob didnt do anything.after experimentation I found
out
that accel changed the mixture when off idle.The tps switch voltages
were
correct at 0 volts idle and I think 4 or somthing off idle.My ARC
2
therefore hes the tps lead working back to front.I wired a transistor
into
the lead to act as an inverter and it works much better now,I can
actually
use accel to set the idle mixture as per instructions.The question
is,is my
ARC2 faulty,are others faulty,or is there just a strap inside the
thing to
invert the accel lead.
I still havn't got it perfect.If its set
up perfect for mid and low its a
bit lean at flat out.I guess its time to fit
those bigger injectors
Steve Cooper
PS Mine is from Japan,they
only use one o2 sensor and mine has MITSUBISHI
across the back
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: Jeff
Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, 23 August 2000 01:05
Subject: Team3S: ARC setup (was : Need
Help)
>I think it's a good idea to change the topic
:)
>
>>You know Matt you are absolutely right. The ARC2 taps into
the IPS
>>wire (ECU pin 67) not the TPS wire (ECU pin 64). And I have
pointed
>>this out to Roger also. The two (IPS and TPS) are of course
adjusted
>>together as we have to move the same sensor housing. Roger
swears by
>>the IPS less than 0.5 and I trust him on
this.
>
>Yes, because any TPS reading above 0.5V didn't work on my
car ! And I
>always tell about TPS due to the fact that IPS is not visible
anywhere and
>TPS can be seen in the S-AVC-R or the datalogger
easily.
>
>>the info they gave me. The contact's name at
SplitSecond was Mark.
>>Accel/idle: idle is low voltage and not idle is
high voltage (~5V),
>>with a 1.5V threshhold. My TMO reports 0.47V for
my TPS (9%) and 95%
>>(4.75V) at WOT. here is what our ECU wants to see
(from the manual).
>>At idle, 0.3-1.0V from TPS and 0-1V from IPS. At
WOT, 4.5-5.5V from
>>TPS and 4V+ from IPS.
>
>This is the
same I got from Eric Nist, the electrical head from SS. The
>threshold is
not really working on our cars as the ARC seems to draw down
>the voltage
when connected to the IPS. I measured the voltage in the ARC
>and it was
different when I disconnected the wire to the ARC. So one can
>call this a
problem but it works if TPS is set below 0.5V at
idle.
>
>>Pressure input to the ECU: 4V nominal (~1 bar). My TMO
reports 3.2V
>>(0.8 bar).
>
>Yes, mine is 0.9
bars
>
>>Temp input to the ECU: 2.74 Ohm nominal to ground (about
20ºC or
>>68ºF). My TMO reports 1.99V or 96ºF.
>
>Huh ??
Your reading is way too high and would cause the timing to be
less
>advanced ! The 20°C is what is desired (20°C, 1bar ambient at
sealevel) and
>this would give the most performance. If the temp output is
that high the
>ECU reduces the timing by about 2-4 degrees to prevent
knock. Now, the good
>thing is that you really see less knock but maybe
there is more room. I
>already spoke with Eric about a variable
temperature setting because in
>winter the ECU is not able to adapt and
the behaviour is somewhat annoying
>when sitting in traffic (bumper to
bumper driving). Hey, his reminds me
>that the ARC is in the car since a
year now :) I will check back when the
>car is up and alive but I think I
remember a temp of 24°C I've converted
>from the TMO
reading.
>
>I'm working on the temp thing as I need it for the
summer. I'm sure a
>simple variable resistor will do the job just havent
had the chance to try
>it out yet. I'm also considering a small
thermoresistor that will be
>mounted at the airfilter providing the ECU
the correct temperature (as the
>MAF doesn't have them anymore). BTW, this
is what the VPC does as it
>doesn't do a lot if any to the mixture when
temp rises but the signal to
>the ECU is changed to show the temp increase
(in the intake manifold). I
>think this is not a bad idea to deliver the
real temperature of the air in
>the y-pipe for the ECU, but it is
possible that it then highly retards the
>timing when it sees 90°C
(without WI !!!!!!) at the throttle body ! The
>desired temp shoudl always
be below 50°C and best results are at 39°C
>(thank you WI !!!). When I'm
able again to crawl under the car I will get
>the stuff ready soon and
will then check this out.
>
>>that work for your car may be
different. The ECU really should not
>>care at all if the TPS is 0.45
or 0.75 as the ECU's threshhold is
>>1.0V, at least that's what the
manual says. :)
>
>Yep, exactly. The ECU is out of the problem loop
here !
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 22:58:41
-0700
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S:LPG
- -----Original Message-----
has anyone thought
about converting to LPG.
Its half the price of petrol here.
Its about 110
octane,
Its clean burning,and I believe that with modern conversions,it can
be
injected ,just like petrol
just a thought
Steve
Cooper
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:02:30
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ARC setup (was : Need Help)
> I,ve had the ARC 2 in
my car for about 3 months.I couldn't get it to run
> properly.The
arm 1 wouldn't work either which didn't help.After a new o2
> sensor
,the arm 1 worked
But when you have a faulty O2 sensor, this has nothing
to do with the ARC
nor the ARM ! What about the second O2 sensor
???
> but I still thought the ARC 2 was wired
wrong
> because the accel knob didnt do anything.after
experimentation I found out
> that accel changed the mixture when
off idle.
What revision of the ARC ?
> The tps switch
voltages were
> correct at 0 volts idle and I think 4 or somthing
off idle.
Measured with the ARC attached ?
> My ARC
2
> therefore hes the tps lead working back to front.I wired a
transistor into
> the lead to act as an inverter and it works much
better now,I can actually
> use accel to set the idle mixture as per
instructions.The question is,is my
> ARC2 faulty,are others
faulty,or is there just a strap inside the thing to
> invert the
accel lead.
It works better with the inverted signal but one can do this
in the ARC
itselfs. It didn't help me as the IPS voltage got heavily dropped
so
adjusting the TPS to below 0.5V was the best. The transistor is a smarter
solution :)
> I still havn't got it perfect.If its set up
perfect for mid and low its a
> bit lean at flat out.I guess its
time to fit those bigger injectors
So what injectors do you have and what
boost do you run on ? You can't say
"not perfect" when you just installed it
with stock injectors and run too
much boost !
> PS Mine is
from Japan,they only use one o2 sensor and mine has MITSUBISHI
>
across the back
No, this is not possible ! They always have two O2
sensors, also the
Japanese ones. If you had a fried O2 sensor I'd suggest to
test the second one.
Roger... from the other side of the earth
(Switzerland)
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:12:00
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S:LPG
>has anyone thought about converting to LPG.
>Its
half the price of petrol here.
>Its about 110 octane,
>Its clean
burning,and I believe that with modern conversions,it can be
>injected
,just like petrol
I can't say in english but it is too "dry" to use it in
"normal" engines
and washes out the cylinders causing more danger for
piston-ring failures
(like injecting too much alcohol !). Also you cannot
get the same amount of
energy out of it than from petrol. Maybe a mixture is
ok.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 08:59:50
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Airbox for 1991 Stealth
I had seen a picture of a hood
(either fiberglass or carbon fiber) a few
weeks ago on the net. This
seemed to have one intake over the air filter
area which would ram air into
an air filter that is open on the top (Super
High Flow, K&N, etc.)
It had another hole near the front and I thought one
near the rear to perhaps
cool the turbos and/or the plenum.
Unfortunately, I can't find the
picture of this hood again and was hoping
someone would be able to locate it
for me. Even if you don't get the hood
it gives good ideas to people
with First gen cars who would be able to
retro-fit a ram-air system into the
shock tower covers.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgihttp://www.3kgt.com <
http://www.3kgt.com> - "Car pictures"
then "Readers'
4" page
- -----Original Message-----
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.com [
mailto:MerisaPDX@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
August 22, 2000 6:10 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Need Airbox for 1991 Stealth
I am working on a idea that would
allow cold ram air to be supplied directly
to the airbox for the 3000gt
or the Dodge Stealth. If anyone has a extra
airbox for sale
please contact me via e-mail so that I can purchase it
from
you. Should this project succeed I will share it with
everyone.
Merrisa
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 08:51:31
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
I better add my 2 cents in
here. I ~had~ a Predator 1000 amp battery. A
few months ago it
crapped out on me. It no longer could hold a charge. I
sent it
in to get replaced by some third party company and I haven't got a
replacement. The third party company hasn't seen an Predator/Odessey
battery for three months. Apparently there is some Japanese knock off
of
the Odessey battery on the market now too. If your ordering one,
thats the
one your probably getting.
I have no plans of buying
another one for me. There warranty policy sucks,
since they make you
run around circles and send you to some other company to
handle the
warranty. And to this day, I still don't actually know what
company
makes the battery.
And as far as water injection, a $30 Wal-Mart battery
will work if you get
the smaller ones they sell (625 amp) No need for
the Odessey battery to
hook up Water Injection.
A disgruntled
Predator owner,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
"Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
Team 3/S List <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
>Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:34:09
-0500
>
> > Anyone with the Odyssey battery. which battery
do
> > you use the TC-680 or the 925? Seems the 680 should
> >
be enough, but I am curious which one most of you use.
>
>I have the
680. It has enough juice to operate the hydraulics to power the
>top
up/down several times with the car off and still be able to easily
>start
>the car no problem. The stock battery was
insufficient for the task after
>4
>years, Predator has been great
for over 1 year. Terminals still look
>brand-new and it has never
come close to not starting the car right up.
>
>-Matt
>'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 14:00:10
GMT
From: "marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Warranty Pricing to Mike Raicu, A Warranty story
Mike,
Did you by any chance purchase your car from Libertyville
Mitsubishi?
Please let me know, I bought the Warranty from them and it
is a joke. They
sell two types one is also a warranty that covers
paint chips, tires, and
misc up to $2000. The other one is an extended
used car warranty and you
can combine the two if you want. Last year
my dad 94 SL (43,000 miles) had
a problem, which was the crankshaft bolt
came loose, because the pin on the
crankshaft gear broke. The result
was the car needed a new harmonic
balancer, new power steering belt, a new
a/c belt, power steering belt
pulley, 1 cam gear, headlight assembly and a
new plastic cover the lower one
that cover the timing belt. Once that
bolt came loose the a/c and power
steering belt was melting, the harmonic
balancer rolled onto the street, and
from the force web the headlight
assembly. The car was at my school, which
was Macomb, Illinois Western
Illinois University. My father came up to
visit me with my mom (at the
times it was my dad car, now it is mine) when
this happened my dad and I
followed the extended warranty company on how to
follow make a claim.
After calling the company up, they said that there
will be people in the
office on Monday morning and if a covered part was
found to be the cause
they would pick up the rent a car (my parents had work
on Monday morning)
and repair bill. In a 100 mile radius there was one
repair shop that
works on imports, so I had it towed their which was about 3
miles from where
the car broke down (this was Monday morning and called the
warranty company
up to tell them where the car is and they told me to call
the dealership,
because they only underwrite the warranty).
The
repair shop called the claim in and the service manager who name
was “Roy”
said let me send an adjuster out to look at the car. This was
Monday,
Feb 1st when the claim was called in, the adjuster came on that
Friday the
5th and I met him and explain what happened, showed him the parts
that came
off and that were on the street, told him we pour water on the a/c
and power
steering belt because we didn’t want to watch the car go up in
flames, and
also the glass on the head light assembly I took the glass off
so no one
would get cut (there’s little kids that play where the car was
sitting
waiting to be towed), I had the glass in the bag. He said he seen
it
happened before. He took pictures of my car and the parts. Then he
fax
everything in and said it covered by my warranty. Well on Tuesday
I called
the repair shop and ask if the dealership Libertyville Mitsubishi
called to
give him the go head and to start work on the car, he said
no. Therefore,
my dad called up the dealership to see what the hold up
was. My dad was
told that he needed a copy of what the repair bill is
going to be. So the
repair shop in Macomb, Illinois fax the bill again
in.
Well another week went by and still
nothing. It’s been two weeks that
had gone by, so my dad called up
again and the service manger who handles
the claims said that he wanted 5
hours labor and Libertyville wanted 4 hours
of labor it was a different of
an hour. The dealership charges $75.00
dollars and hour VS the repair
shops $30.00 an hour. So my dad said he will
pay the extra hour.
Roy said, “No, have the car towed to Mitsubishi in
Peoria Illinois”.
So my Dad said “that’s almost 200 miles away, who going
to pay for
that?” Roy said, “Well I’ll pay 50.00 dollars and you will have
to pay
the rest”. My dad was like “You got to be joking”, Roy said “I’ll
see
what I can do and I’ll get back to you tomorrow. Roy then called the
repair shop in Macomb and started a fight over the phone with the repair
shop over the extra hour.
Well the next day Roy called my house,
spoke to my brother, and said, “You
dad is liar, and I’m rejecting the
claim”. So when my dad got home he
called Roy, and Roy said “The
repair shop isn’t using Mitsubishi parts and
he is to high and also you
remove the ac belt and power steering belt, and
the glass so I’m rejecting
the claim.” My dad said “ The two belts were
melting and they were
already off the car, my son and I picked up the pieces
and pour water to
cool of the two belts.” So “Roy said,” Why don’t you shut
you Italian
mouth” then my dad said “what did you say, I’ll have your job?”
Roy
said,” Go head my last day is Friday”, then he hang up on my dad.
Therefore, my dad called up my uncle who owns a car dealership to see if he
can help, because he knows some of the employee. It did not work, Roy
then
put down my uncle and hung up on him, tho my uncle found out that Roy
last
day was that Friday.
Therefore, my dad
waited until that Monday and got a hold of the new
service manger to see if
he can help, still that did not work because the
claim was rejected.
So then I don’t know how, my dad got Bob Rohrman phone
number and called him
up. The lady who answered the phone said MR. Rohrman
was not here and
asked my dad to leave a message. After my dad explain what
was the
reason of the call, she then told my dad to call a guy name John
Hoffman, he
gives the ok for any warranty work. So my dad called up about 7
dealership to find John Hoffman (Mr. Bob Rohrman owns about 25 car
dealerships) he told Mr. John Hoffman they whole story with Roy. Mr.
John
Hoffman called up the repair shop in Macomb to give the ok to start on
the
car and all my dad had to do is fax MR. John Hoffman the final
bills. This
was going on for almost 5 weeks now that the car was
sitting. So on ST.
Patrick Day the car was done. I droved the
rent a car from my home to my
school and from school to home which was about
510 miles, I was on spring
break at the time. My dad fax in the
complete bill for the rent a car and
the repair bill the rent a car bill was
$1715.47 from Feb 1, 1999 to March
17 1999 and the repair bill was
$1737.07.
Later on that night, I was on my way
out when my car did not start.
The car was towed to Libertyville
Mitsubishi and was told that the guy in
Macomb did not know what he was
doing and the car needed all the new parts
that were replace. After my
dad heard that, he called the repair shop in
Macomb and told him the
story. He offered to have the car towed at his
expense from
Libertyville to Macomb about 240 miles or to take it to another
shop and he
would pay for it. The repair shop in Macomb paid Libertyville
over the
phone with a credit card and to have the car towed to the repair
shop we
deal with. After our guy looked at the car, he said the problem was
the crank senor and the repair shop in Macomb paid the entire bill.
3
weeks later we got a check for only $785.75 dollars and a letter that
said
and I quote “ the only reason why were giving you this check of $785.75
dollars is out of good faith”. Therefore, my dad called Bob Rohrman
and
spoke to him and he said he did not know anything about the problem with
my
dad and that he will call him back when he got back from vacation.
Well
till this date, still Mr. Rohrman never called back and my father has
left
at least 25 messages for him. We called Mitu head office and we were
told
"if the repairs had not been done, we would have pick up the bill under
the
6 years 60,000 powertrain warranty". So then we filled out the forms
from
the Attorney General office and got a letter from MR. Hoffman saying
that
the parts that failed were not cover buy the warranty. We had two
different
mechanics look at the warranty contract and they said all the
parts are
coved it stared in our contact in black and white. The main
problem was the
crankshaft gear pin broke causing the harmonic balancer bolt
to unscrew.
So, our Attorney called and he got nowhere too. So
are next step is court.
The funny thing is, that the adjuster who came
out and took the pic’s of the
car they don’t have any record of it, but John
Hoffman does and the funny
thing is that when my father came to visit me at
school he had the oil
change. John Hoffman form says that the oil was
dirty. My dad has the bill
to for that oil change. In addition,
we have pic’s of the damage parts, we
save them and they clearly show the
parts were damage when the pin broke.
The harmonic balancer had chucks
taken out of it from the impact from the
street. The timing belt did
not break, but from the plastic cover that
broke made a half an inch
indentation in the belt. Also, when we got the
better business beau
paper work back, Mr. John Hoffman made a copy of a some
other warranty
contract to get out of paying the full amount. In the
contract that
came with the car when we purchase it says, “ If a covered
part fails or
break, we will pay for full repair for that part cover and
also any parts
that were damage from the covered part”. I’m my father is
still out
$2666.79.
So mike the warranty you got is “BULL SH!T” it called the
CERTIFIED CAR
CARE (AUTO ADVANGE) and when we talk to the company “CERTIFIED
CAR CARE”
they tell us that the parts are covered and then when we ask well
why didn’t
we get full reimbursement back they said that they only our the
underwriters. So, either there is a scam going on or someone is
pocking
money at the BOB ROHRMAN AUTO GROUP. I still have all the
parts that were
replace, all of the receipts, a letter from the repair shop
in Macomb saying
that he was giving the ok to start work on my car and he
has the paper work
confirmation of the 6 times he had to fax the bill
in. In addition, Mike I
only paid 1050.00 for my warranty. The top of
the line gold one. I saw the
red 3000 GT you got, if it was from
Libertyville. I look at it to it had I
believe the DVD player in the
glove box and had 3 remotes, also it had like
a ski rack on the rear
windshield. There was no way I would buy a car from
Bob Rohrman again
my family bought 4 cars from them and never had any
problems with the new
car warranty and used extend warranty. End the
warranty now and get
your full money back. Try warranty Gold at
http://www.warrantygold.com/ , they have
a bumper-to-bumper covers
everything for 700 dollars. Has anybody ever
had a problem with Bob
Rohrman? If anybody would like to see pic’s of
my parts and the paper work
I have let me know? In addition, if you
have any other ways for me to get
my father money back email me at
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com. I was
thinking
about putting a web site together and to get the word out with the
experience I had at Bob Rohrman car dealership. You will think that customer
service is important to any owner who owns a business. Thanks for any help,
sorry if this is a long message I do not want anyone to get scam from this
so called extended warranty. Good luck Mike with your VR4.
Marc
Augelli
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:00:55
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HKS VS K&N
I actually have both on different
cars.... The HKS is spendy, and on some
studies I've seen, it doesn't
filter as good. But I love the looks of it,
and I've polished it to a
mirror like finish. And as far as dependablity
and performance, I
think it flows just as good as a K&N. And it holds up
well to a
front end, $24,000 crash. ;-) You do have to replace the filters
once in awhile, they are not reuseable.
The K&N is a better
value. The Aircharger for the Eclipse (63-1000) that
fits on the 3/S
is the best value at only $54 from CarParts. The filter is
washable
and reuseable. It is kind of blah looking though. But as far as a
horsepower gain the HKS and K&N are probably the same.
Both
filters can be bought at CarParts for a great price. Just use my links
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
I have 1/3rd off discount codes that can
be used for either
one.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
"marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: HKS VS K&N
>Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:41:48
GMT
>
>Hi,
>
> I was hoping someone might help me.
I have a 3000GT SL 1994 and I was
>wondering what is a better
intake. I have been looking at the HKS Super
>Power Flow and K&N
Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit (FIPK). Are
>they
>hard to install in the 3000GT? I had a MR2 turbo 1991
and I had the HKS
>super power flow in it. I know it work good on my
MR2 turbo, but what
>about
>a 94 SL? In addition, what are
the pros and cons when you compare the HKS
>VS the K&N?
>Thanks
for any
help,
>Marc
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>***
Info:
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***
________________________________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:00:52
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HKS VS K&N
I actually have both on different
cars.... The HKS is spendy, and on some
studies I've seen, it doesn't
filter as good. But I love the looks of it,
and I've polished it to a
mirror like finish. And as far as dependablity
and performance, I
think it flows just as good as a K&N. And it holds up
well to a
front end, $24,000 crash. ;-) You do have to replace the filters
once in awhile, they are not reuseable.
The K&N is a better
value. The Aircharger for the Eclipse (63-1000) that
fits on the 3/S
is the best value at only $54 from CarParts. The filter is
washable
and reuseable. It is kind of blah looking though. But as far as a
horsepower gain the HKS and K&N are probably the same.
Both
filters can be bought at CarParts for a great price. Just use my links
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
I have 1/3rd off discount codes that can
be used for either
one.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
"marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: HKS VS K&N
>Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:41:48
GMT
>
>Hi,
>
> I was hoping someone might help me.
I have a 3000GT SL 1994 and I was
>wondering what is a better
intake. I have been looking at the HKS Super
>Power Flow and K&N
Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit (FIPK). Are
>they
>hard to install in the 3000GT? I had a MR2 turbo 1991
and I had the HKS
>super power flow in it. I know it work good on my
MR2 turbo, but what
>about
>a 94 SL? In addition, what are
the pros and cons when you compare the HKS
>VS the K&N?
>Thanks
for any
help,
>Marc
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
________________________________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:04:38
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Taking Care of a New Car
Anyone have a page (or a link to
someone's page) that lists all the "things
to do" when you buy a new (from
the factory) car? Like babying the clutch,
not exceeding certain RPM
for a while, etc. I have a friend who's about
to buy
a new Eclipse GT, so I was hoping to find something to point him to
that will
tell him all the stuff he should do in the early stages of the
car's
life. BTW, I'm guessing that 2000+ Eclipses aren't really part
of
DSM.org, so is there another interest group for them? They have the
6G72
engine (24V, but SOHC, and it's a mirror image of ours), so they
probably
share some stuff with us.
Thanks!
-
--Erik
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 10:08:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OT: Taking Care of a New Car
One might consider reading the
owners manual.
It covers a lot of those details for those not so
naturally inclined to
take care of a new car without
instructions.
(At least my 00' Celica GT-S manual was written like it
was for a 12yr
old..geesh..'This is a _Turn Signal_...')
On Wed,
23 Aug 2000, Gross, Erik wrote:
> Anyone have a page (or a link to
someone's page) that lists all the "things
> to do" when you buy a new
(from the factory) car? Like babying the clutch,
> not exceeding
certain RPM for a while, etc. I have a friend who's
about
> to buy a new Eclipse GT, so I was hoping to find something to
point him to
> that will tell him all the stuff he should do in the early
stages of the
> car's life. BTW, I'm guessing that 2000+ Eclipses
aren't really part of
> DSM.org, so is there another interest group for
them? They have the 6G72
> engine (24V, but SOHC, and it's a mirror
image of ours), so they probably
> share some stuff with us.
>
> Thanks!
> --Erik
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
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Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 11:17:57
-0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jeffrey@omega-sw.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: OT: Taking Care of a New Car
Geoff;
Not so
elamentary...many people in Colorado do not know what a turn signal
is or at
least how to use one!!
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth<snip>
(At
least my 00' Celica GT-S manual was written like it was for a
12yr
old..geesh..'This is a _Turn Signal_...')
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 13:38:08
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OT: Taking Care of a New Car
Funny that ... it seems that
many GM cars and recently the Ford cars that
have turn signals as options on
the new models.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgihttp://www.3kgt.com <
http://www.3kgt.com> - "Car pictures"
then "Readers'
4" page
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey
Young [
mailto:jeffrey@omega-sw.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, August 23, 2000 1:18 PM
To: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Re:
Team3S: OT: Taking Care of a New Car
Geoff;
Not so
elamentary...many people in Colorado do not know what a turn signal
is or at
least how to use one!!
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth<snip>
(At
least my 00' Celica GT-S manual was written like it was for a
12yr
old..geesh..'This is a _Turn Signal_...')
***
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#243
*********************