team3s
Tuesday, August 22
2000 Volume 01
: Number
241
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Aug 2000 09:24:51 -0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <
troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help!
Do you or does anyone else know where this fuse is
located? I could have
the
dealer check it out first. The
air/fuel ratio was definitely leaned out.
Troy
I have a
similar story that starts with a K&N, but in my case a fuse blew
a
few
days after installation (apparently because I hadn't disconnected
the
battery to
reset the ECU and it saw too much air) and I was dead on
the side of the
road.
A simple fix, but it cost me a tow and a $195
troubleshooting visit to the
Dodge
dealer! That's one EXPENSIVE
fuse, but I'd expected worse and was happy to
shell it out and cut my
losses...
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:33:35
-0400 (EDT)
From:
jason_4369@webtv.net (Jason &
Nancy)
Subject: Team3S: Flashing Light
Hello
Everybody,
I have had my 91 Stealth ES for a year now
(with much repair work done) Now
for my next problem when I make a sharp
right turn a light starts flashing on
the dashboard, right above the SRS
light (Third light up all the way to the
right.) At first I believed it
to be the coolant light but then I topped it
off and it still flashes.
Any one know what this light is ? I have no visible
leaks and the water
pump was replaced last year during my engine rebuild !!
Next problem I'm
getting this load squeaking noise that almost sounds like my
brakes but
they are all new. The sound seems to be coming from where the
inner CV
joint enters. When I spray some WD-40 up there the noise we'll stop
for
about a day. The noise is now coming from both sides?? I have had
repair
shops look at my car and they said every thing looks good. Thanks
for
the help in advance!
jason_4369@webtv.net1991 Dodge
Stealth ES 24v D.O.H.C.,5-speed,126,000 miles on car 10,000
since rebuilt
engine
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 10:35:29
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flashing Light
Your flashing light that looks like a water
level is most likely your washer
fluid level. Add some windshield
washer fluid and watch the flashing go
away!
Ken Wheeler
'92
RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason &
Nancy" <
jason_4369@webtv.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: Flashing
Light
> Hello
Everybody,
>
I have had my 91 Stealth ES for a year now
> (with much repair work done)
Now for my next problem when I make a sharp
> right turn a light starts
flashing on the dashboard, right above the SRS
> light (Third light up all
the way to the right.) At first I believed it
> to be the coolant light
but then I topped it off and it still flashes.
> Any one know what this
light is ? I have no visible leaks and the water
> pump was replaced last
year during my engine rebuild !! Next problem I'm
> getting this load
squeaking noise that almost sounds like my brakes but
> they are all new.
The sound seems to be coming from where the inner CV
> joint enters. When
I spray some WD-40 up there the noise we'll stop for
> about a day. The
noise is now coming from both sides?? I have had repair
> shops look at my
car and they said every thing looks good. Thanks for
> the help in
advance!
>
>
jason_4369@webtv.net>
> 1991
Dodge Stealth ES 24v D.O.H.C.,5-speed,126,000 miles on car 10,000
> since
rebuilt engine
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:37:41
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help!
>I have the GTPRO Y-pipe and HKS hard pipe kit
and from the top all hoses
>looked to be in place.
>I have yet to
look down by the intercoolers for a popped hose.
Yes, I'd closely look at
them !
>One more thing. I added octane boost in my last fill
up.(20 miles ago) to
>reduce possibility of
>knock.
Is not
enough at all. The only 1 or two point is doing not enough for our
internals
!
>When I had the ARC2 installed the shop had been working on my car
for 8
>weeks. As such I was getting quite iritated and ready to get
my car back.
8 weeks, taht would irritate me too. A rebuild with six new
pistons takes 6
days of work here in Switzerland !
>
The mechanic had installed everything except the ARM1
>stating that I
would burn up my engine if I used the thing
The biggest and most stupid
thing I ever heard. The guy is a sub-zero when
he talks that kind of BS !!!!
This is THE sentence taht prooves that the
guy doesn't know ANYTHING !!!
Without the ARM, the ARC CANNOT be tuned in.
End of story ! Be prepared for
having more damage when this guy did the
installation... oh man, I feel your
pain.
>but if I wanted to leave the car a couple more days he would
get to it.
The ARM is installed in 5 minutes !
>
Well, I just took the unit home with me to
>get away from that
place
>and never installed it, so to answer your question, I don't know
what the
>mixture was.
You only looked at the EGT, right. May I ask
where the EGT is installed,
rear or front bank, in the downpipe ?
I
just wonder how you ever have been able to tune in the car properly
without
knowing the mixture. You must really like to walk o nthe dark side
of the
moon ;-) Let us know if only a IC pipe broke off.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:41:48
GMT
From: "marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: HKS VS K&N
Hi,
I was hoping someone might help
me. I have a 3000GT SL 1994 and I was
wondering what is a better
intake. I have been looking at the HKS Super
Power Flow and K&N
Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit (FIPK). Are they
hard to
install in the 3000GT? I had a MR2 turbo 1991 and I had the HKS
super
power flow in it. I know it work good on my MR2 turbo, but what about
a 94 SL? In addition, what are the pros and cons when you compare the
HKS
VS the K&N?
Thanks for any
help,
Marc
________________________________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 11:48:06
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help!
> One more thing. I added octane boost in
my last fill up.
>(20 miles ago) to reduce possibility of
knock.
Octane booster does almost nothing. It raises the octane
about 2-3 POINTS
if you put in 12-16 ounces. That means if you started
with 92 octane, you
end up with 92.3 octane. NOT enough to be safe at
1.15 bars of boost. If
you mix it 10% (2 gallons of the stuff in one
tank) you get 94.2 octane.
20% is 96.4 octane, 30% is 98.6
octane.
> When I had the ARC2 installed the shop had been
working
> on my car for 8 weeks. As such I was getting quite
>
iritated and ready to get my car back. The mechanic
> had installed
everything except the ARM1 stating that
> I would burn up my engine if I
used the thing but if
> I wanted to leave the car a couple more days he
would
> get to it. Well, I just took the unit home with
me
> to get away from that place and never installed it, so
> to
answer your question, I don't know what the
> mixture
was.
????????????
You had no idea what the air/fuel ratio was and
yet you were adjusting the
ARC2 leaner? Ouch. Hope your pistons
are all in one piece. 92(.3) octane
fuel + 1.15 bars of boost + lean
mixture = almost certain engine damage.
What shop did you have working on
your car?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
15G's, ARC2, 550cc
injectors, H2O injection, etc.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 09:49:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flashing Light
Check out the url below for the flashing light
- washer fluid level.
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/Other_gto_manual.htmlThat
link and over 450 more can be found on the Links page at my
web
site.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason & Nancy" <
jason_4369@webtv.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: Flashing
Light
Hello
Everybody,
I have had my 91 Stealth ES for a year now
(with much repair work done) Now
for my next problem when I make a
sharp right turn a light starts flashing on
the dashboard, right
above the SRS light (Third light up all the way to the
right.) At
first I believed it to be the coolant light but then I topped it
off
and it still flashes. Any one know what this light is ? I have
no
visible leaks and the water pump was replaced last year during
my
engine rebuild !! Next problem I'm getting this load squeaking
noise
that almost sounds like my brakes but they are all new. The
sound
seems to be coming from where the inner CV joint enters. When I
spray
some WD-40 up there the noise we'll stop for about a day. The
noise
is now coming from both sides?? I have had repair shops look at
my
car and they said every thing looks good. Thanks for the help
in
advance!
jason_4369@webtv.net1991 Dodge
Stealth ES 24v D.O.H.C.,5-speed,126,000 miles on car
10,000
since rebuilt
engine
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 09:59:23
-0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <
troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help!
Roger,
I have EGT sensors on both the
front and rear banks with a peak/hold on the
rear. Also have a boost
gauge with peak/hold which stated 1.15bar.
I just tuned it with my butt
dyno at first but could tell I was running rich
so I called the guys at GTPRO
and asked them what a good starting point for
my
mods were. I then
reset my ARC2 to those and tweaked until it felt smooth.
The car actually
felt strong in the low end but almost tight or restricted
in
the upper
rpms. However, when I adjusted the higher rpm mixture the
car
would
stutter on hard acceleration. My settings were -4% for
low, -2% for mid,
and -2%
for high and accel set to zero. The octane
boost was 104+ and supposed to
be 5-7
points.
I'll be installing
the ARM 1 as soon as I get the car back!
Thanks Roger, Matt, and everyone
else who has responded.
I knew if there was an answer I'd find it
here!
>I have the GTPRO Y-pipe and HKS hard pipe kit and from the
top all hoses
>looked to be in place.
>I have yet to look down by
the intercoolers for a popped hose.
Yes, I'd closely look at them
!
>One more thing. I added octane boost in my last fill up.(20
miles ago) to
>reduce possibility of
>knock.
Is not enough at
all. The only 1 or two point is doing not enough for our
internals
!
>When I had the ARC2 installed the shop had been working on my car
for 8
>weeks. As such I was getting quite iritated and ready to get
my car back.
8 weeks, taht would irritate me too. A rebuild with six new
pistons takes 6
days of work here in Switzerland !
>
The mechanic had installed everything except the ARM1
>stating that I
would burn up my engine if I used the thing
The biggest and most stupid
thing I ever heard. The guy is a sub-zero when
he talks that kind of BS !!!!
This is THE sentence taht prooves that the
guy doesn't know ANYTHING !!!
Without the ARM, the ARC CANNOT be tuned in.
End of story ! Be prepared for
having more damage when this guy did the
installation... oh man, I feel your
pain.
>but if I wanted to leave the car a couple more days he would
get to it.
The ARM is installed in 5 minutes !
>
Well, I just took the unit home with me to
>get away from that
place
>and never installed it, so to answer your question, I don't know
what the
>mixture was.
You only looked at the EGT, right. May I ask
where the EGT is installed,
rear or front bank, in the downpipe ?
I
just wonder how you ever have been able to tune in the car properly
without
knowing the mixture. You must really like to walk o nthe dark side
of the
moon ;-) Let us know if only a IC pipe broke off.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:00:51
-0400
From: Eric J Totten <
spankis@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Flashing Light
I had the same problem when i made left turns. I believe
thats the
windshield washer fluid light. That worked for me.
Eric
'91
ES DOHC
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:29:03
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Correction RE:Info regarding "1995 VR-4 wastegate/blow off"
" I
am learning more and more now and I
appreciate everyone's time. Sorry
to be such a bother."
Hehe, no problem, and no bother (that's what we are
here for right?),
it was late, I glanced at the name, and by the time I
posted it, it
went from Darren to Dan :). I basically pointed out the same
thing
Matt Jannusch (damn you Matt! :) did, but since I get the
digest
version, I didn't know he tried to help you too.
I really
wasn't trying to be mean/condescending (and said as much),
just sometimes
people come in and post stuff w/o knowing fully what
they are talking about,
and I usually send em to that page, it's
easier to visually see it, than me
trying to type it all out... (it's
always better to know more about the car
anyway!). No hard feelings!
And thanks for purchasing the CD.
19 =
Fuel Purge (from the evaporative canister)
21 = Boost hose connection, should
be FROM the stock bleeder solenoid
(I think)
16 = Breather hose, for PCV
(Positive Crankcase Ventilation)
17 = Vacuum hose, for the opening and
closing of the BOV (blow off
valve) < This is the only hose that
pressurizes/depressurizes the BOV
diaphram
These are talking about the
page 427 of 1308 (15-1), in the "All Other
3000GT" manual on
CD
REGARDING=Could someone please tell me, from page 15-9 on the
CD
Manual for "Air
Cleaner" what the heck items 19 (Purge hose connection)
and 21 (Boost
hose
connection) are or where they go? Also, are items
16 (Breather hose)
and 17
(Vacuum hose connection) the parts used for the
turbo bypass valve
(aka BOV)
to determine the pressure difference for
operation?
In conclusion, it was mostly a misunderstanding of
what the words
meant
(bypass valve instead of BOV), etc.
<
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:26:00
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Active Exhaust RT-Turbo
Bill Miller wrote:
>
> I've
found that if you just jack up the driver's side rear you have enough room to
get your hand in
> around the actuator for the exhaust. I personally had
another person's help so you don't have to go
> up and down for the next
step. To unstick mine I would squirt it with WD40 (or any other
>
penetrating oil) and have someone pull on the cable from the trunk, I'd then
give it a push with a
> screw driver to pull the cable back. You just keep
doing this back and forth with a squirt now and
> again and it will start
moving quite nicely.
WD-40 works great for freeing up the mechanism
(which I have always been able to
do by hand from underneath), and if you
follow it up with a good douse of
Tri-Flow (Teflon lubricant - great stuff
but stinky), it seems to stay unstuck
longer.
- --
Jim Matthews -
Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:25:38
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need Help!
A few folks asked me for details about the experience
I mentioned earlier. I
can't find my original post (summer 1997), but
from what I can remember:
I installed the K&N FIPK (no other mods at
the time - otherwise completely
stock). Several days later, I was going
about 40mph behind a slow truck not far
from my house in rural Maryland,
downshifted into 2nd and nailed it. This sent
a chill up my spine, not
due to the usual acceleration rush, rather because the
engine completely
died. I coasted over to the shoulder with horrible thoughts
(broken
timing belt?) and could not get it restarted - the engine would crank
but not
fire. I checked the MAF connector since, like many other folks on
the
list, I had forgotten to reconnect it after installation and thought
maybe it
had come loose (though when disconnected the car will usually fire
and barely
run), but it was tight. Everything else looked normal, so I
called the closest
Dodge/Mitsu dealer (turned out to be Fitzgerald's Dodge in
Frederick), requested
a flat-bed tow truck and threw in the
towel.
After a tense few hours in the waiting room, the mechanic informed
me that a
fuse had blown, apparently due to an anomaly with the MAF (which
they thought
might need to be replaced - $$$). They first tried
replacing the fuse (which
was in the engine compartment, not the box under
the dash, but I don't remember
which one exactly - ECU maybe?) but it would
just blow immediately. Once they
disconnected the MAF connector, they
were able to put a new fuse in without it
blowing. They disconnected
the battery to reset the ECU, reconnected the MAF
and charged me $195 for the
electrical trace (but hey, they threw in the fuses,
wasn't that nice?), and I
was back on the road again!
The concensus of the list (starnet, at the
time) was that by not resetting the
ECU during installation of the FIPK
(which I thought was just a CYA disclaimer
by K&N), the MAF reported a
reading that far exceeded what the ECU was used to
seeing, and it decided to
take no chances. Note that this problem never
resurfaced, even after
installation of the AVC-R (30k miles ago now).
Troy, I hope this is your
problem!
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:30:32
-0400 (EDT)
From:
jason_4369@webtv.net (Jason &
Nancy)
Subject: Team3S: SRS Light
Hello Guys &
Gals,
Thanks for the help with the washer fluid
light ( I feel like a real idiot
now!!) My next question is my SRS light
stays on. When I had my car repainted
the body shop told me the only
damage done was just a minor crack under the
passenger side blinker that
the car must of been bumped hard enough to set
off the senor, but the
air bag is still in place. They recommend taking it to
a dealer and have
the system reset. Does anybody know where the sensor(s)
are? and if so
how do you reset them?
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 11:36:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need Help!
Jim,
What an interesting story but I think
the starnet list was pulling
your leg. Reseting the ECU should not change the
practical air flow
limits of its programming. Besides, the K&N does not
increase air
flow, per se, it reduces the pressure loss associated with the
air
filtering in front of the MAS. This just lets the turbos work
easier.
Further, I find it hard to believe that Mitsu would program a chip
to
start causing electrical shorts when it sees something out of
the
ordinary (imagine this happening at 140 mph!). When you shifted
into
2nd at 40 mph, RPM dropped to below 4500. No way at 4500 RPM
to
develop too much air flow. I don't know what caused the problem, but
an
unhappy ECU was probably not it. Just my 2¢.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
To: "Team3S
Technical Forum" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 22, 2000 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need
Help!
A few folks asked me for details about the experience I
mentioned
earlier. I can't find my original post (summer 1997), but
from what
I can remember:
I installed the K&N FIPK (no other mods
at the time - otherwise
completely stock). Several days later, I was
going about 40mph
behind a slow truck not far from my house in rural
Maryland,
downshifted into 2nd and nailed it. This sent a chill up my
spine,
not due to the usual acceleration rush, rather because the
engine
completely died. I coasted over to the shoulder with
horrible
thoughts (broken timing belt?) and could not get it restarted -
the
engine would crank but not fire. I checked the MAF connector
since,
like many other folks on the list, I had forgotten to reconnect
it
after installation and thought maybe it had come loose (though
when
disconnected the car will usually fire and barely run), but it
was
tight. Everything else looked normal, so I called the
closest
Dodge/Mitsu dealer (turned out to be Fitzgerald's Dodge
in
Frederick), requested
a flat-bed tow truck and threw in the
towel.
After a tense few hours in the waiting room, the mechanic informed
me
that a fuse had blown, apparently due to an anomaly with the MAF
(which
they thought might need to be replaced - $$$). They first
tried
replacing the fuse (which was in the engine compartment, not
the box under
the dash, but I don't remember which one exactly - ECU
maybe?) but it would
just blow immediately. Once they disconnected
the MAF connector, they
were able to put a new fuse in without it
blowing. They disconnected
the battery to reset the ECU, reconnected
the MAF and charged me $195 for the
electrical trace (but hey, they
threw in the fuses, wasn't that nice?), and I
was back on the road
again!
The concensus of the list (starnet, at the
time) was that by not
resetting the ECU during installation of the FIPK
(which I thought
was just a CYA disclaimer by K&N), the MAF reported a
reading that
far exceeded what the ECU was used to seeing, and it decided to
take
no chances. Note that this problem never resurfaced, even
after
installation of the AVC-R (30k miles ago now).
Troy, I hope this
is your problem!
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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http://mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:35:56
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Correction RE:Info regarding "1995 VR-4 wastegate/blo w
off"
No hard feelings here and hope this answers the questions others may
have
been ready to ask. I feel that some people don't ask questions
because they
are afraid to have their head bit off.
I have had more
than my share of Admin emails (more apologies Forrest,
Roger, Mikael, etc.)
and I'm still learning and trying to remember the rules
(reply privately for
off-topic posts, etc.).
Thanks again Vineet and I'm glad every problem on
this list is met with the
same excitement to solving as this one has
been. Thanks to everyone for
your help and keep the list
alive.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgihttp://www.3kgt.com <
http://www.3kgt.com> - "Car pictures"
then "Readers'
4" page
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vineet
Singh (3S) [
mailto:stealthtt@ecanfix.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, August 22, 2000 2:29 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Correction
RE:Info regarding "1995 VR-4
wastegate/blow off"
Hehe, no problem, and
no bother (that's what we are here for right?),
it was late, I glanced at the
name, and by the time I posted it, it
went from Darren to Dan :). I basically
pointed out the same thing
Matt Jannusch (damn you Matt! :) did, but since I
get the digest
version, I didn't know he tried to help you too.
No
hard feelings!
And thanks for purchasing the CD.
19 = Fuel Purge (from
the evaporative canister)
21 = Boost hose connection, should be FROM the
stock bleeder solenoid
(I think)
16 = Breather hose, for PCV (Positive
Crankcase Ventilation)
17 = Vacuum hose, for the opening and closing of the
BOV (blow off
valve) < This is the only hose that
pressurizes/depressurizes the BOV
diaphram
These are talking about the
page 427 of 1308 (15-1), in the "All Other
3000GT" manual on
CD
REGARDING=Could someone please tell me, from page 15-9 on the
CD
Manual for "Air
Cleaner" what the heck items 19 (Purge hose connection)
and 21 (Boost
hose
connection) are or where they go? Also, are items
16 (Breather hose)
and 17
(Vacuum hose connection) the parts used for the
turbo bypass valve
(aka BOV)
to determine the pressure difference for
operation?
In conclusion, it was mostly a misunderstanding of
what the words
meant
(bypass valve instead of BOV), etc.
<
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 11:52:08
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Resetting the ECU
So does anyone know what exactly is "reset"
when the ECU looses
power? From my TMO datalogger, I see the three fuel trim
values are
reset, but what else is? The TMO doesn't show us
everything,
especially the programming part of the ECU.
Jeff Lucius,
3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:11:23
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 94 to 96 ECU swap, should be possible
Considering that both are
turbo cars, the swap between the 94 to the
96 (OBD2 Loggable) ECU's should be
entirely possible, provided you
purchase/fabricate and install two bungs on
your exhaust for 2 more o2
sensors, customize the wiring from them to the
ECU, and change CERTAIN
pins in the wiring harness.
Harness wise, the
plugs will fit, but there are about 10-13 wires that
will need to be
re-ordered, to put them at pins where the 96 ECU will
be able to read them.
Nowhere in the manual does it mention different
voltage outputs or difference
in operation, at those check points.
Actually, it seems that only 96
CALIFORNIA ECU's require the extra
o2's, but that may be wrong. If you want
to try it, I will help!
For more information, print out the pages from
the "all other
3000gt's" ENGINE section, 384 thru 389 of 1308 from the CD
manual, or
if you have the just the 92-96 Mitsu manual, pages 13A-280 to
13A-285.
Actually, go here,
http://www.ecanfix.com/~manualcd/gift/
and download
the 94-96_3s_ecu.pdf file, it's just those pages.
Vineet
Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM -
Go Fast With Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
RE:Would there be any problems with swapping my
ecu in my 94 VR4 with
a 96 or
newer so that I can datalog? Other than the
possibility of a couple
pin swaps?
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray<
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:59:47
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need Help!
Working on the car WITHOUT disconnecting the
battery is always very
dangerous. Even unplugging and replugging the MAS with
the batt attached MAY
cause damage to the MAS.
> The concensus of
the list (starnet, at the time) was that by not resetting
the
> ECU
during installation of the FIPK (which I thought was just a
CYA
disclaimer
> by K&N), the MAF reported a reading that far
exceeded what the ECU was
used to
> seeing, and it decided to take no
chances. Note that this problem never
> resurfaced, even after
installation of the AVC-R (30k miles ago now).
Nono, the MAS reading
doesn't alter that much. Resetting the ECU is ok to
initiate the learning.
Otherwise it would take longer until the fuel map is
recognized to another
value o nthe load and rpm basis. Often people exchange
their dirty old filter
with a FIPK and report a huge gain then after
resettign the ECU. Sure, as
there is now a new open filter element that
helps to breath better
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:08:09
-0600
From: "Jon Bach" <
bach@rt66.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Resetting the ECU
I have noticed the same thing with my friend's TMO
datalogger for our cars.
I know that resetting it makes the car have to
"re-learn" the type of fuel
you're using (great for optimizing your car's
usage of race gas), but I'm
not sure what else. Mainly I noticed somtimes
cars just have their check
engine light stay solid and resetting the ECU will
remedy that problem as
well.
Jon Bach
1991 Eagle Talon TSi
AWD
Albuquerque
> So does anyone know what exactly is "reset" when
the ECU looses
> power? From my TMO datalogger, I see the three fuel trim
values are
> reset, but what else is? The TMO doesn't show us
everything,
> especially the programming part of the
ECU.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:03:16
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Resetting the ECU
So does anyone know what exactly is "reset"
when the ECU looses
power? From my TMO datalogger, I see the three fuel trim
values are
reset, but what else is? The TMO doesn't show us
everything,
especially the programming part of the ECU.
Yes, you got
it as the fuel trim values are the key for the value determined
on the fuel
map. But also the ignition value (an offset that was learned due
to the
amount of retard that has been initiated) and the codes are
reset
then.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:21:33
GMT
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject:
Team3S: 1.Trans prob & 2. new member & 3. Euro Spec? & 4. Warranty $
& 5. Boost Controller Install
Hey guys,
I apologize in advance
for the uper long message, but I hope I categorized it
enough to make it
easy enough to answer just specific parts. Thanks in advance.
I
have 5 main topics to discuss with you:
1. Transmission Problem: 94
Yellow TT
2. New member to the family: 95 Red VR-4
3.
Concernes about the new VR-4: Euro Spec?
4. Warranty Pricing on 94
TT or 95 VR-4
5. Need help installing: APEXI Boost Contr, K&N
Airfilter, Boost Gauge, EGT Gau
6.
Conclusion
==========================================================================
1.
Transmission Problem: 94 Yellow TT
About 10 days or so ago, I wrote you
guys about my brothers 94 Yellow TT
transmission was making funny metal to
metal grinding noise. The car now has
66K miles, however, at 53K
miles, it had a brand new transmission under
warranty. However, the
car came out of warranty shortly after the fix, which
means that right now
the car has no warranty. I have good news!!! The dealer
did not
hesitate at all on replacing the transmission again at no cost. My
brother should have it back in about 10 days (hopefully).
==========================================================================
2.
New member to the family: 95 Red VR-4
This past weekend, I finally
retired my 93 Red Base Stealth and gave it to my
mom, and bought a 95 Red
3000GT VR-4. Here are some of the specs:
95 3000GT VR-4
Red
Exterior / Black Interior (Leather)
31500 miles
Everything is Stock, the
car has never been serviced
Tinted windows
Mfg. Sunroof
Indash Global
Positioning System (GPS)
Indash CD/DVD/TV
Stock 6 Disc CD-Changer
4
year / 48 month bumper to bumper Warranty
Anyhow, the car is spotless,
not a single ding or scratch on the whole car.
==========================================================================
3.
Concernes about the new VR-4
The dealer that I bought the car from was
braging that the car was pushing
400HP since the previous owner installed
some kind of a manual valve in which
he turn up the boost. I have
heard of this as it is the cheapest way to make
the car faster, but how safe
was it for the car and what should I look for in
terms of engine
damage. When you read further down, you will notice I want to
put a
boost controller, will I most likely have to undo what the previous owner
did? Also, the car has a ton of Japanese stickers on it. The
dealer said that
the owner was from Japan and brought the car from there to
the US, and it just
wasn't worth it for him anymore to ship it back.
Part of this story has to be
true since the GPS system in the car is
currently loaded with a Japan map. I
am currently trying to get a US
map for it. Anyways, are all the Euro Spec
3000GTs with the stearing
wheel on the right side? .. or perhaps do they all
say GTO instead of
3000GT? I am just trying to find out if it is Euro Spec or
not?
==========================================================================
4.
Warranty Pricing
I feel like I got jipped on the warranty that I just
bought on the vehicle from
the dealer. It is a bumper to bumper
warranty with a $100 deductible covering
48 months or 48K miles, and it cost
me a total of about $3100. To me, that
sounds outrageous, but I bought
anyway for the safety untill I find another
one. The old one is fully
refundable if I ever find a better deal. What have
you guys found on
warranties. I think my brother also wants to get an extended
warranty
on his Yellow 94 TT, as soon as he gets his trans fixed. His car has
66K miles.
==========================================================================
5.
APEXI A-VCR Boost Controller, K&N Airfilter, Boost Gauge, EGT Gauge
Install
My brother bought all these parts about 2 weeks ago, after which
he had the
transmission problem. Anyways, as soon as his car is fixed,
he will be ready
to install them, however, we are not technical enough to do
the whole install
our own. Since I just upgraded to the VR-4 from the
base Stealth, I am ready
to upgrade the car to all the toys that my brother
just bought. I am sure I
can get all the parts by the time his car is
fixed. We live in the Metro
Detroit Area, and we were wondering if
anyone who has already installed these
toys on their own cars is willing to
help us. We can drive to whomever is
willing to help and we can even
pay whomever for their time, but we just want
to do it right. On top
of everything, I also bought a G-TECH Pro in order to
see what improvements
all these mods will do to the car.
==========================================================================
6.
Conclusion
I apologize for the super long message, but I just had a lot
to say, and I want
to thank everybody in advance for all the help.
Mike Raicu
95 Red VR-4
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT
Margareta Raicu (my mom)
93 Red Base
Stealth
-
---------------------------------------------
Wayne State University Library
System
Content does not represent the views of WSU.
http://www.lib.wayne.edu/***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#241
*********************
team3s
Tuesday, August 22
2000 Volume 01
: Number
242
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:48:34 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3. Euro Spec? & 5. Boost Controller Install
>
Everything is Stock, the car has never been serviced
> The dealer that
I bought the car from was braging
> that the car was pushing 400HP since
the previous
> owner installed some kind of a manual valve in
>
which he turn up the boost. I have heard of this
> as it is the
cheapest way to make the car faster,
> but how safe was it for the car and
what should I
> look for in terms of engine damage. When you
read
> further down, you will notice I want to put a boost
>
controller, will I most likely have to undo what
> the previous owner
did?
Doesn't sound stock to me...
However, whtatever he did to the
boost control system would be between the
nipple on the rear of the Y-pipe
and the wastegates of the turbos. You
should be able to trace those
lines and find "something" on there. Probably
a bleeder valve of some
sort.
How safe was it for the car? Depends on how carefully the
previous owner
adjusted it and how well he was able to resist the temptation
of continually
turning it up. If there's no aftermarket boost gauge in
the car, I would be
very afraid.
> Also, the car has a ton of
Japanese stickers on
> it. The dealer said that the owner was
from
> Japan and brought the car from there to the US,
> and it just
wasn't worth it for him anymore to
> ship it back. Part of this
story has to be true
> since the GPS system in the car is
currently
> loaded with a Japan map. I am currently trying
>
to get a US map for it. Anyways, are all the Euro
> Spec 3000GTs
with the stearing wheel on the right
> side? .. or perhaps do they all say
GTO instead
> of 3000GT? I am just trying to find out if it
>
is Euro Spec or not?
Does the rear trim panel between the
taillights say "GTO" or "3000GT" on it?
If it says 3000GT then it definitely
is not Japanese spec. If it says
"GTO", that's not really a good
indicator either since you can just get the
panel from Japan and slap it on
any 3000GT. GTO's from Japan should have
the steering wheel on the
right-hand side of the car. Stock Japanese (or
American, or European)
GTOs/3000GT's do not come with Japanese stickers on
them, either.
;-)
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/PRODUCTSS/gto.htmlKeep
in mind that "Euro-spec" means European Specification. Japanese-spec
is
different, as Japan is not part of Europe. Most likely your car was
not
destined for Japan. It may have been shipped there from here and
returned
here... Tough to say.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:50:17
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help
Troy,
Here are the ARC2 (old model) settings
I use with 550s and 15Gs at
5500' elevation.
Low: 0 to +1 click
(depending on air temp)
Mid: -7 clicks (I can't stray from this more than 1
click, even when
I was using stock injectors)
High: -2 to -4
clicks
Accel: up 1 click (0 is not enough and 2 is too much)
Moving
knobs clockwise increases the mixture richness. Hope this
is
helpful.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Browne, Troy E" <
troy.e.browne@intel.com>
To:
"'Roger Gerl'" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; "Browne, Troy
E"
<
troy.e.browne@intel.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need
Help!
<snip>
My settings were -4% for low, -2% for mid, and -2%
for high and accel
set to zero.
<snip>
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:58:28
-0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <
troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help
Jeff,
Wow, that sounds almost exactly what I
had mine set to before I changed
it to what guy at GT PRO suggested.
Can you smell fuel when idling?
The car ran GREAT but left thin cloud of
black smoke on WOT. I found the
same thing with the accel function till
I reset it to my current settings.
I assumed it was WAY rich with anything
over 1 click.
From your settings it actually looks like I am still
running rich.
each click is 2% and mine were.
Low: -2 clicks
Mid: -1
click
High: -1 click
accel: 0
Troy,
Here are the
ARC2 (old model) settings I use with 550s and 15Gs at
5500'
elevation.
Low: 0 to +1 click (depending on air temp)
Mid: -7 clicks
(I can't stray from this more than 1 click, even when
I was using stock
injectors)
High: -2 to -4 clicks
Accel: up 1 click (0 is not enough and 2
is too much)
Moving knobs clockwise increases the mixture richness. Hope
this is
helpful.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Browne, Troy E" <
troy.e.browne@intel.com>
To:
"'Roger Gerl'" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; "Browne, Troy
E"
<
troy.e.browne@intel.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need
Help!
<snip>
My settings were -4% for low, -2% for mid, and -2%
for high and accel
set to zero.
<snip>
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:09:30
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help
> Wow, that sounds almost exactly what I had
mine
> set to before I changed it to what guy at GT PRO
>
suggested. Can you smell fuel when idling?
> The car ran GREAT
but left thin cloud of black
> smoke on WOT. I found the same thing
with the
> accel function till I reset it to my current
>
settings. I assumed it was WAY rich with
> anything over 1
click.
> From your settings it actually looks like I am
> still
running rich. each click is 2% and mine
> were.
> Low: -2
clicks
> Mid: -1 click
> High: -1 click
> accel: 0
For
comparison, I'm at:
Low: +2 clicks
Mid: -8 clicks
High:
+1 click
Acc: +3 clicks
Judging by the setting you have for Mid,
you have the later revision of ARC2
than Jeff and I have, so your settings
aren't going to be directly
comparable to ours, and I think you said you had
larger injectors than
550cc?
My idle sucks, I can't seem to figure it
out. The car runs great at all
throttle settings other than straight
idle, but it idles fine once the car
is warmed up and it can get O2 sensor
readings. I can smell gas at idle,
but lesser accel or Low values
result in the car stalling at idle.
I dunno...
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:54:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help
Troy,
My car runs great! No fuel smell at idle.
No hesitations. As Roger
said, you really need the ARM1 to tune the ARC2.
With the ARM1 you
will immediately see the effects of adjusting any knob on
the ARC2.
You want the ARM1 to cycle at idle, low load, and cruise. You want
it
into the blue lights (rich) at mid and high load. Load being
measured
by the throttle plate opening.
If I remember your previous
posts, the installation shop seemed to be
confused regarding the install. The
correct installation involves
tapping into the ECU wires. Hopefully they did
not mess this up! The
ARM1 taps into the ECU the same way as the ARC2 - and
they couldn't
figure out the ARM1 wiring???? Also, the TPS/IPS output (which
is
adjustable) must be in the correct range for the ARC2. If it is
not,
then the ARC2 does not know you are in an idle situation (Low
and
Accel knobs). The last part that could be messed up is the
connection
of the round ARC2 MAS to the "oval" air intake opening. It should
go
together just fine (I had no trouble at all with it), but you may
want
to check that the seal is good.
Matt,
I think your Accel is up to
high.
I believe the only difference between the 1st and 2nd ARC2 models
is
in the Accel function. For the original (classic?) model "0" is down
at
the "6 o'clock" position with no negative settings. For the new
model, "0" is
up at the "12 o'clock" position. I think the other 3
functions are the
same.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:09 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help
>
Wow, that sounds almost exactly what I had mine
> set to before I changed
it to what guy at GT PRO
> suggested. Can you smell fuel when
idling?
> The car ran GREAT but left thin cloud of black
> smoke
on WOT. I found the same thing with the
> accel function till I
reset it to my current
> settings. I assumed it was WAY rich
with
> anything over 1 click.
> From your settings it actually
looks like I am
> still running rich. each click is 2% and mine
>
were.
> Low: -2 clicks
> Mid: -1 click
> High: -1
click
> accel: 0
For comparison, I'm at:
Low: +2
clicks
Mid: -8 clicks
High: +1 click
Acc: +3
clicks
Judging by the setting you have for Mid, you have the later
revision
of ARC2 than Jeff and I have, so your settings aren't going to
be
directly comparable to ours, and I think you said you had
larger
injectors than 550cc?
My idle sucks, I can't seem to figure it
out. The car runs great at
all throttle settings other than straight
idle, but it idles fine
once the car is warmed up and it can get O2 sensor
readings. I can
smell gas at idle, but lesser accel or Low values
result in the car
stalling at idle.
I dunno...
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder
VR4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:57:38
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help
> Matt,
> I think your Accel is up to
high.
Me too, but the car won't run right without it. Won't idle,
and off-idle
response is too lean. I did find a problem where the
o-ring on the fuel
pump output wasn't seated properly which was causing all
sorts of tuning
headaches due to low/inconsistent fuel pressure, but after
fixing that I'm
still having some idle issues.
> I believe the only
difference between the 1st
> and 2nd ARC2 models is in the Accel
function.
> For the original (classic?) model "0" is down
> at the
"6 o'clock" position with no negative
> settings. For the new model, "0"
is up at the
> "12 o'clock" position. I think the other 3
>
functions are the same.
On the new one "Mid" is recalibrated to be more
fine between adjustments,
and with 550cc injectors it should be set more
towards "0", according to
GTPro. Earlier models like ours are supposed
to be at -14% regardless, but
my car runs better at -16%. I
dunno..... Still tweaking I guess.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:10:26
EDT
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Need
Airbox for 1991 Stealth
I am working on a idea that would allow cold ram
air to be supplied directly
to the airbox for the 3000gt or the Dodge
Stealth. If anyone has a extra
airbox for sale please contact
me via e-mail so that I can purchase it from
you. Should this
project succeed I will share it with everyone.
Merrisa
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:29:25
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help
Matt,
Thanks for he update on the ARC2 model
change. Have you checked the
TPS/IPS output to be sure the ARC2 knows you are
idling? TPS should
probably be below 0.5 V at idle (for the ARC2) and TPS
should be
above 4.5 V at WOT (for the ECU). If I remember correctly, the
TPS
voltage (not resistance) can only be checked at the ECU or with
a
datalogger.
Jeff Lucius
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need
Help
> Matt,
> I think your Accel is up to high.
Me
too, but the car won't run right without it. Won't idle, and
off-idle
response is too lean. I did find a problem where the o-ring
on the fuel
pump output wasn't seated properly which was causing all
sorts of tuning
headaches due to low/inconsistent fuel pressure, but
after fixing that I'm
still having some idle issues.
> I believe the only difference between
the 1st
> and 2nd ARC2 models is in the Accel function.
> For the
original (classic?) model "0" is down
> at the "6 o'clock" position with
no negative
> settings. For the new model, "0" is up at the
> "12
o'clock" position. I think the other 3
> functions are the same.
On
the new one "Mid" is recalibrated to be more fine between
adjustments, and
with 550cc injectors it should be set more towards
"0", according to
GTPro. Earlier models like ours are supposed to be
at -14% regardless,
but my car runs better at -16%. I dunno.....
Still tweaking I
guess.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 17:36:20
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help
> Thanks for he update on the ARC2 model change.
Have
> you checked the TPS/IPS output to be sure the ARC2
> knows
you are idling? TPS should probably be below
> 0.5 V at idle (for the
ARC2) and TPS should be
> above 4.5 V at WOT (for the ECU). If I
remember
> correctly, the TPS voltage (not resistance) can
> only be
checked at the ECU or with a datalogger.
Yup, I set that myself to .450
but the car didn't like it. It was very
"jerky" at low speeds so I
upped it to .750v where it is happy. With it at
.450 it seemed to be
affecting the low-end fuel trim value since Accel would
affect the mixture at
cruise and I had all sorts of strange behavior
off-idle. At .750 at
least the car is smooth and only idle is funky. The
IPS closes at idle
and opens slightly off-idle, so that seems fine. ARC-2
shouldn't really
care about voltage coming off the TPS since it doesn't read
it anyways, but I
am getting full-range voltages off the TPS.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:38:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EGTs with and without upgraded turbos at ? psi
Sue,
My
rear manifold EGTs would hit 900ºC (1652ºF) and peak at 1000º
(1832ºF, very
scary) with 15 psi boost, 15Gs, stock MAS, "stock" 380
cc/min injectors and
sustained WOT running. This was an obvious lean
condition and possibly fatal
had I not had forged pistons. Lowering
the boost some did not help much.
After installing the ARC2 and 550
injectors, peak EGT is now around 900ºC. I
did not have EGT gauges
when the car was stock with 9Bs.
850ºC
(1562ºF) to 900ºC are normal peak EGTs measured a few inches
away from the
ports at WOT. My cruising EGTs are usually 500-800ºC.
My coasting EGTs can go
down below 500ºC (lots of hills here in
Colorado). If WOT EGTs are less than
850ºC then the mixture could be
leaned out a little. If over 900ºC then the
mixture should be
richened up some.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth
316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Smith" <
saintsue@netzero.net>
To: "Team 3/S
List" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, August 18, 2000 10:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: EGTs with and without
upgraded turbos at ? psi
I assume many people have EGT gauges. I
would like to know what kind
of EGTs people have with various boost settings
and turbos on PUMP
gas. I know Trevor said he got to 1620F @ 15psi with
his 15Gs, but
isn't it possible that the fuel injector he thought might have
been
bad (which caused his engine's demise) led to a lean a/f ratio,
and
therefore higher than normal EGTs? So maybe with a proper
working
set of fuel injectors they would be lower than that.
Anyone?
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:14:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help
You know Matt you are absolutely right. The ARC2
taps into the IPS
wire (ECU pin 67) not the TPS wire (ECU pin 64). And I have
pointed
this out to Roger also. The two (IPS and TPS) are of course
adjusted
together as we have to move the same sensor housing. Roger swears
by
the IPS less than 0.5 and I trust him on this. I called up Split
Second
(3/15/00) before I installed the ARC2 and asked them. Here is
the info they
gave me. The contact's name at SplitSecond was Mark.
Accel/idle: idle is
low voltage and not idle is high voltage (~5V),
with a 1.5V threshhold. My
TMO reports 0.47V for my TPS (9%) and 95%
(4.75V) at WOT. here is what our
ECU wants to see (from the manual).
At idle, 0.3-1.0V from TPS and 0-1V from
IPS. At WOT, 4.5-5.5V from
TPS and 4V+ from IPS.
Pressure input to the
ECU: 4V nominal (~1 bar). My TMO reports 3.2V
(0.8 bar).
Temp input to
the ECU: 2.74 Ohm nominal to ground (about 20ºC or
68ºF). My TMO reports
1.99V or 96ºF.
Now considering that the ARC2 actually works different
from what they
told me, I can only go by what works for me. On my car my
IPS/TPS
settings seem to be just fine as the car works great. The
settings
that work for your car may be different. The ECU really should
not
care at all if the TPS is 0.45 or 0.75 as the ECU's threshhold
is
1.0V, at least that's what the manual says. :)
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
Stealth 316
-->
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 22, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help
>
Thanks for he update on the ARC2 model change. Have
> you checked the
TPS/IPS output to be sure the ARC2
> knows you are idling? TPS should
probably be below
> 0.5 V at idle (for the ARC2) and TPS should be
>
above 4.5 V at WOT (for the ECU). If I remember
> correctly, the TPS
voltage (not resistance) can
> only be checked at the ECU or with a
datalogger.
Yup, I set that myself to .450 but the car didn't like
it. It was
very "jerky" at low speeds so I upped it to .750v where it
is happy.
With it at .450 it seemed to be affecting the low-end fuel trim
value
since Accel would affect the mixture at cruise and I had all sorts
of
strange behavior off-idle. At .750 at least the car is smooth
and
only idle is funky. The IPS closes at idle and opens
slightly
off-idle, so that seems fine. ARC-2 shouldn't really care
about
voltage coming off the TPS since it doesn't read it anyways, but I
am
getting full-range voltages off the TPS.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 19:17:50
EDT
From: "Justin Sciarretta" <
justin_sciarretta@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Newbie Engine Problems
Hello everyone,
I have a Red 93
Stealth RT (89000 km, completely stock 5 speed) which lately
has responded
strangely during full throttle. When driving at full throttle
and
shifting at high revs (5000-5500) the car responds excellently.
However, if I am cruising and the engine is in the 2500 - 3000 RPM range and
then apply full throttle, the response is somewhat different to what I am
accustomed to. Sometimes a pause takes place after applying full
throttle,
then the engine will jump 500 to 1000 RPM, and then will continue
to respond
normally. Other times the engine will immediately jump 500
to 1000 RPM
after applying full throttle and then will seem to pause for a
short time (a
second or so) and then continue to increase in RPM.
Finally, for both of
those situations, after releasing the throttle
completely while in the same
gear, sometimes the engine experiences a drop
of 500 - 800 RPM. This
erratic behaviour was first noticed in 4th and
more recently it has occurred
in 2nd and 3rd.
I switched fuel (used
regular for 6 years, now supreme) and recently reset
my ECU, and although
the frequency of the problem has decreased
considerably, it nevertheless
still exists and is bothersome.
Any
ideas???
Thanks
Justin
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:23:26
-0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <
troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Help
Jeff and Matt,
I have the rev2 version of
the ARC2 and the TPS set to .55v. I couldn't
get it to go any lower
than that. I noticed with my original settings
(similar to Jeff's) that
the car idled a little high(900rpms) and rough.
Also, with those settings the
car would sometimes fall on its face when
I tried an agressive launch (3.5k
rpms no clutch dump)
When I dialed it in with the settings from GT
PRO I had TONS of low end
torque and NO problems off the line but felt
restricted in the higher rpms
than it had in the past. I was thinking
of bumping the accel up to 1 or 2
and tweaking the mid and low down again but
now I'll have to wait 'till
she's
out of the shop.
Hopefully that
will be sooner than later. ie: something simple not busted
timing
belt or
holes in the pistons.
> Thanks for he update on the ARC2 model
change. Have
> you checked the TPS/IPS output to be sure the ARC2
>
knows you are idling? TPS should probably be below
> 0.5 V at idle (for
the ARC2) and TPS should be
> above 4.5 V at WOT (for the ECU). If I
remember
> correctly, the TPS voltage (not resistance) can
> only be
checked at the ECU or with a datalogger.
Yup, I set that myself to .450
but the car didn't like it. It was very
"jerky" at low speeds so I
upped it to .750v where it is happy. With it at
.450 it seemed to be
affecting the low-end fuel trim value since Accel would
affect the mixture at
cruise and I had all sorts of strange behavior
off-idle. At .750 at
least the car is smooth and only idle is funky. The
IPS closes at idle
and opens slightly off-idle, so that seems fine. ARC-2
shouldn't really
care about voltage coming off the TPS since it doesn't read
it anyways, but I
am getting full-range voltages off the TPS.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:55:22
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Newbie Engine Problems
> When driving at full throttle
and shifting at high revs
> (5000-5500) the car responds
excellently.
> However, if I am cruising and the engine is in the
2500 -
> 3000 RPM range and then apply full throttle,
<...> Sometimes
> a pause takes place after applying full
throttle, then the engine
> will jump 500 to 1000 RPM, and then
will continue to respond
> normally. Other times the engine
will immediately jump 500
> to 1000 RPM after applying full throttle and
then will seem
> to pause for a short time (a second or so) and then
continue
> to increase in RPM.
It sounds to me like you may
have a clutch on its way out - at high revs,
the load isn't as high, so the
clutch isn't strained as much. When you
floor it at low RPM (especially
in high gears), that strains the clutch
quite a bit. It's fine for
normal driving, but as your clutch nears the end
of its life, the high-load
situations will be when you notice it start to
slip. Try this:
find your favorite hill and put it in 5th at 40mph or so.
Floor it, and see
if the engine revs faster than the wheels accelerate (i.e.
your tach moves a
lot faster than your speedometer). If it does, then baby
your clutch,
don't drive the car any more than you have to, and get to a
shop to have your
clutch replaced as soon as possible!
> Finally, for both of
those situations, after releasing the
> throttle completely while in the
same gear, sometimes the
> engine experiences a drop of 500 - 800
RPM. This erratic
> behaviour was first noticed in 4th and more
recently it has occurred
> in 2nd and 3rd.
I'm not sure what this
is all about, but I suppose it could be related to a
worn clutch. I
haven't experienced that though.
> I switched fuel (used regular
for 6 years, now supreme) and
> recently reset my ECU, and although
the frequency of the
> problem has decreased considerably, it nevertheless
still
> exists and is bothersome.
uhhh... the RT has the DOHC
engine, right? With the 6G72 engine and 10:1
compression, you NEED
premium fuel - don't use anything else!
- --Erik
***
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 22:31:16
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo/oil problem
Hello everyone....
I was trying to hunt down my
'turbo hiss' problem tonight, and pulled a
bunch of intercooler pipes to see
if they were cracked, leaking at
joints, etc. Well, when I pulled the
main pipe off of the back turbo,
it was caked in oil. It traces well
down thru the right intercooler and
up to the pipe next to the
dipstick. It hasn't made it to the y-pipe or
throttle body yet, which
is probably why I haven't seen smoke.
Uh... I know this is a terrible
problem, but what have I found, and what
do I do??
*sob*
*sob*
Thanks
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
New Getrag,
K&N, Snake Eyes, plates
007KEN
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:39:15
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo/oil problem
> I was trying to hunt down my 'turbo
hiss' problem
> tonight, and pulled a bunch of intercooler pipes
>
to see if they were cracked, leaking at joints,
> etc. Well, when I
pulled the main pipe off of
> the back turbo, it was caked in oil.
It traces
> well down thru the right intercooler and up to the
>
pipe next to the dipstick. It hasn't made it to
> the y-pipe or
throttle body yet, which is probably
> why I haven't seen
smoke.
> Uh... I know this is a terrible problem, but what
>
have I found, and what do I do??
Hmmm... Check the intake side of
the plumbing before the turbo to see if
oil is getting in there
somehow. I'm not sure on this one, but does the PCV
valve blow
crankcase pressure into the intake before the turbos? If it
does, it
could just be a bad PCV valve and all you have to do is replace the
valve and
clean out the intake/intercoolers/pipes.
If that's not the case, it might
be something along the lines of a bad turbo
bearing in which case it would be
a good time to consider larger turbos.
Someone on the list had a set of 9b's
for sale "best offer" recently so that
could be a possibility for you.
I'd look at it as an opportunity to
upgrade, but that's me...
Not sure
what the hissing sound would be, I suppose that could be a worn
bearing as
well. :-(
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 22:48:19
EDT
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: SRS Light
The sensors are inside the front fender
wells. They are really easy to spot
as they are bright orange with a
red harness connected to them. CAUTION: if
you even plan on
messing with them, make sure your battery is disconnected
for at least 5-10
minutes as the residual charge in the SRS system can cause
your airbag to
blow.
There is no way to "reset" the sensors if they are bad. The
service manual
contains an easy procedure to tes them. If they are
bad, they'll have to be
replaced at a heft price and the system reset using
a scan tool.
One thought, though. Did your battery slowly discharge
over a long period of
time? If so, this can set a fault code in your
SRS brain. Turn the ignition
switch on and off sixty times and it may
reset. If it doesn't, then you'll
need to have the dealer reset
it.
Keep us posted!
Joe 91TT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 08:14:14
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Odyssey aka Predator Battery
Hi Guys,
Anyone with the Odyssey
battery. which battery do you use the TC-680 or
the 925? Seems the 680 should
be enough, but I am curious which one most
of you use.
Rich
92
Stealth TT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:16:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
I will be installing either a
680, or an extremely small 12v battery to
only start the car
with.
Contemplating not having a battery at all..just another 20-30lbs I
dont
need at 140mph for 60 minutes.
On Tue, 22 Aug 2000, Richard
wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Anyone with the Odyssey
battery. which battery do you use the TC-680 or
> the 925? Seems the 680
should be enough, but I am curious which one most
> of you use.
>
>
> Rich
> 92 Stealth TT
>
> ***
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:09:25
EDT
From:
Topofwrld1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Odyssey aka Predator Battery
In a message dated 08/22/2000 9:14:18 PM
Mountain Daylight Time,
radanc@home.com
writes:
<<
Hi Guys,
Anyone with the
Odyssey battery. which battery do you use the TC-680 or
the 925? Seems
the 680 should be enough, but I am curious which one most
of you
use.
Rich
92 Stealth TT >>
I
have had the smaller Black Panther Predator for about 5 years or so in my
92
and it has been great. Frees up lots of space and provides visibility
down to the clutch slave etc. Get the optional hold down clamp from
Predator
and generic battery hold down J bolts and it should bolt right
in.
My Predator has solid brass posts which have required zero
maintenance. My
understanding is that is a Predator modification on
the Odyssey. Will be
installing a Predator in my Durango soon.
Dennis
Kreiter, 92 R/T
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:19:15
EDT
From:
Topofwrld1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
SRS Light
In a message dated 08/22/2000 8:50:46 PM Mountain Daylight
Time,
TrboDrvr@aol.com
writes:
<< One thought, though. Did your battery slowly
discharge over a long period
of
time? If so, this can set a
fault code in your SRS brain. Turn the
ignition
switch on
and off sixty times and it may reset. If it doesn't, then you'll
need to have the dealer reset it. >>
After the key off
and on trick did not work, my 5 star dealer diagnosed the
SRS problem as two
bad sensors or about $800. I did not believe that BOTH
sensors would
go out at the same time so I told them to just reset the light.
They
assured me it would just come back on again. It has been about 5 years
now so I suppose it should come back on real soon now.
Dennis
Kreiter 92 R/T
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:29:19
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SRS Light
If you need sensors..I have a clean garaged 95 VR4
parts car.
sensors, most of the SRS wiring 100% intact, and airbag
computer as well.
On Wed, 23 Aug 2000
Topofwrld1@aol.com wrote:
> In a
message dated 08/22/2000 8:50:46 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
>
TrboDrvr@aol.com writes:
>
>
<< One thought, though. Did your battery slowly discharge over a
long period
> of
> time? If so, this can set a fault
code in your SRS brain. Turn the
> ignition
> switch
on and off sixty times and it may reset. If it doesn't, then you'll
> need to have the dealer reset it. >>
>
> After
the key off and on trick did not work, my 5 star dealer diagnosed the
>
SRS problem as two bad sensors or about $800. I did not believe that BOTH
> sensors would go out at the same time so I told them to just reset the
light.
> They assured me it would just come back on again. It
has been about 5 years
> now so I suppose it should come back on real
soon now.
>
> Dennis Kreiter 92 R/T
>
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:34:09
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery
> Anyone with the Odyssey
battery. which battery do
> you use the TC-680 or the 925? Seems the 680
should
> be enough, but I am curious which one most of you use.
I
have the 680. It has enough juice to operate the hydraulics to power
the
top up/down several times with the car off and still be able to easily
start
the car no problem. The stock battery was insufficient for the
task after 4
years, Predator has been great for over 1 year. Terminals
still look
brand-new and it has never come close to not starting the car
right up.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#242
*********************