team3s             Monday, August 21 2000             Volume 01 : Number 239




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:32:33 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine flooded with fuel...

The plugs are more than likely fouled.  Remove them and replace with new
ones, properly gapped for your application.  The engine should fire right up
after that is done.

It is highly unlikely that any damage was done.


Barry


> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi Everybody..
>
> Yesterday one of my IC piping blew off while I was
> driving.. its was the piping that connects to the IC
> behind the front bumper so I didnt catch it right
> away.. had the car towed home..
>
> Anyways.. I tried to start the engine and of course it
> wouldn't idle right.. it would die after a second or
> two.. thinking it was some sort of a fuel starve
> problem.. i begun pumping fuel while starting the
> engine.. I turned the ARC unit to rich.. etc.. after a
> while.. the engine would not fire up anymore!
>
> After more cafeful inspection.. found the IC piping
> behind the bumper came off.. so I fixed it.. but the
> engine would not fire up at all!  The engine would
> turn when I try to start it.. but it won't fire up.. I
> am told that my engine is probably flooded with fuel..
> and to leave it overnight and it would probably be
> able to start the next day when the flooded fuel
> evaporates/or goes away..
>
> Well.. this is the next day.. the engine still won't
> fire up~
>
> Anyone know what to do now?  Wait another day??
>
> Would I have damaged anything??
>
> Any help is appreciated!!  Thanks!
>
> /George
> '92 RT TT


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:37:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine flooded with fuel...

Barry,

Thanks.

I just replaced the plugs last week with HKS
Iridiums.. no possible way they can be saved?? Spent a
fortune on them! =(

/George
- --- "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com> wrote:
> The plugs are more than likely fouled.  Remove them
> and replace with new
> ones, properly gapped for your application.  The
> engine should fire right up
> after that is done.
>
> It is highly unlikely that any damage was done.
>
>
> Barry
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Hi Everybody..
> >
> > Yesterday one of my IC piping blew off while I was
> > driving.. its was the piping that connects to the
> IC
> > behind the front bumper so I didnt catch it right
> > away.. had the car towed home..
> >
> > Anyways.. I tried to start the engine and of
> course it
> > wouldn't idle right.. it would die after a second
> or
> > two.. thinking it was some sort of a fuel starve
> > problem.. i begun pumping fuel while starting the
> > engine.. I turned the ARC unit to rich.. etc..
> after a
> > while.. the engine would not fire up anymore!
> >
> > After more cafeful inspection.. found the IC
> piping
> > behind the bumper came off.. so I fixed it.. but
> the
> > engine would not fire up at all!  The engine would
> > turn when I try to start it.. but it won't fire
> up.. I
> > am told that my engine is probably flooded with
> fuel..
> > and to leave it overnight and it would probably be
> > able to start the next day when the flooded fuel
> > evaporates/or goes away..
> >
> > Well.. this is the next day.. the engine still
> won't
> > fire up~
> >
> > Anyone know what to do now?  Wait another day??
> >
> > Would I have damaged anything??
> >
> > Any help is appreciated!!  Thanks!
> >
> > /George
> > '92 RT TT
>


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 13:01:51 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine flooded with fuel...

Ouch.  That'll hurt.

I have managed to save a few fouled plugs but they don't seem to last very
long once resurrected,  and I only did it when I had no choice.  If you have
access to an electrosonic/electrostatic cleaner you might be able to get
them to rejuvenate.  I haven't tried this before but always wanted to see
how well or if it worked.

You could pull the front three plugs, inspect them and then try and clean
them up.  The engine will at least fire if not actually run if you manage to
save them.  Depending upon the success of that you could decide to try and
do the rear bank.  For cleaning, try contact cleaner (zero residue) and a
very small stiff brush.  You need to get the insulator and electrodes as
clean as possible.  If you have a gas lawnmower or something along those
lines you can easily test them without putting them in the car.  Even if
they spark it doesn't mean they'll be strong enough to keep the car running,
but at least you'll know they are trying to work.

Best bet is to get a new set of plugs.  You could throw cheaper ones in
there now just to get running again, and then make further enquiries about
saving the old ones.  Don't count on this happening though.  Usually when
they are fouled, they are useless.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Barry,
>
> Thanks.
>
> I just replaced the plugs last week with HKS
> Iridiums.. no possible way they can be saved?? Spent a
> fortune on them! =(


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 00:08:13 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine flooded with fuel...

> Yesterday one of my IC piping blew off while I was
> driving..

Uups, not properly clamped or the IC piping do not have the a small bed at
the front to prevent slippage :(

> Anyways.. I tried to start the engine and of course it
> wouldn't idle right.. it would die after a second or
> two..

Stupid question : you reconnected the IC piping, did you ? What about any
bad stuff sucked into the IC core ??

> After more cafeful inspection.. found the IC piping
> behind the bumper came off.. so I fixed it.

Ah, ok, all other pipes ok ?

> am told that my engine is probably flooded with fuel..
> and to leave it overnight and it would probably be
> able to start the next day when the flooded fuel
> evaporates/or goes away..

Even a totally flooded engine will fire up after a few cranks as the gas
simply is pushed out into the exhaust.

> Would I have damaged anything??

Hmm, first, check if there is any ignition by unplugging one wire and lying
the case against ground to see if there is ignition. When doing this, remove
the connector to the fuel pump relay that is located just under the ARC (I
guess you have the CD ... a must, you know !) so the pump will not deliver
any fuel. If this works, then turn the ARC knobs to the position it worked
before, even one or two clicks leaner in the LOW (of course the relay is
connected again, hehe). Usually, the only danger of blowing a pipe off is
that there can get any dirt in it, especially when yo ucrank it the engine
jsut sucks up the air (unmetered). I also think that the plugs are not yet
fouled as they only will when the rich mixture also will be burned and it
doesn't. The Iridium plugs should be ok, but will be burnt off after not so
many miles. Check them every 5k as I heard people telling that they are gone
after 10k or max 15k, depending on the amount of fuel. And our engine need
fuel for cooling !

Let us know about the ign.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch





***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 23:42:07 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK vs. Aircharger

> I remember hearing somewhere that the K&N aircharger for the eclipse
> will fit the stealth/3000GT, and that it is a better deal and better
> performing than the FIPK for the stealth/3000gt.  Can anyone comment
> from experience here?

- - Aircharger for 2nd gen DSM wil lfit with a little mod of mounting bracket
(easy)
- - Aircharger $90, FIPK$150 = better deal
- - Aircharger is not CARB approved in California
- - Not more performance gain

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 23:45:49 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU and Cat Converter question

> and just beginning to eat through the board! Now, what would you guys do
> with it? Should I go to a local electronics shop, send it to
> foreignecurepair.com, or buy a whole used one from a junk yard? Any
> suggestions?

Desolder them, clean the board and check if the acid already has eaten up
some lines. Good e-shops should be able to do this, but who knows !

A used one will be still pretty expensive if not hard to find !

> Secondly, does anyone have instructions that a layman could follow for
> gutting the pre-cats? I looked through every 3/S site I could find today
and
> no luck...=(

Just use a large, huge and long drillbit and a heavy machine ! The most
annoying work o nthe car one can do !

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 16:37:41 -0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU and Cat Converter question

Hi Roger, et al;

This question of this ECU failure brings to mind maintenance of the ECU  to
prevent exactly what has occurred in this situation. Has anyone advise on
intervals to check it, what to look for and any maintenance procedures that
might be involved. It seems we service other items on the car regularly but
do nothing with this until failure occurs. Thoughts.

Best

Darc


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 16:46:34 -0700
From: "Bbizo" <bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie problems continue?

> It looks like my situation has changed somewhat today.  On my way to work
> today I was going down a 4-lane highway when I started to here a squeaking
> sound.  After about 2 miles I heard a snap and the engine cut off.  The
> coolant temperature started to go up and there was smoke coming from the
> pulley area.  I am starting to think it is the timing belt, which I
> understand also runs the water pump?  Correct me if I am wrong but I have
> heard that the piston to valve clearance is close enough to cause some
> serious damage if the cam timing goes south.

Micheal -

Your water pump froze up, that was your coolant leak we talked about
earlier. Your timing belt heated up and that is were the smoke came from. I
dearly hope that it didn't come off or break, because you are right, it can
really raise hell with your engine. At very least, you need a water pump and
timing belt. Please keep us up to date on what you find.


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 21:08:04 EDT
From: "brandon thomas" <a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
Subject: [none]

How can i tell if my Vr4 was imported into america from Great Britian? You
know thoses sticker they put on vechicle imported for Europe well my car has
one. It looks just like the one on my friends land rover which he said meant
my car had been in Great Britian. On looking on one of the 3000gt sites it
said that there wasnt any VR4s made with silver paint for the American
market in 1992, is this true? I have seen silver 3000gts but they have more
of a goldish tint and none of them are vr4s.

Also my car is still backfiring I cant figure it out. I have replaced plugs
and wires. If you dont remember it only backfires above 4000rpms and full
throtle. If it doesnt backfire it studders and feels like I'm not geting
enough fuel. The engine was just rebuilt and bored out. If it is fuel
related what kind of aftermarket fuel pump do you recomend. I am planning on
upping the boost so a better than stock pump is what im looking for. Thanks
for any help!!

Brandon Thomas
a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 21:09:36 EDT
From: "brandon thomas" <a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: European VR4?? & Backfiring

How can i tell if my Vr4 was imported into america from Great Britian? You
know thoses sticker they put on vechicle imported for Europe well my car has
one. It looks just like the one on my friends land rover which he said meant
my car had been in Great Britian. On looking on one of the 3000gt sites it
said that there wasnt any VR4s made with silver paint for the American
market in 1992, is this true? I have seen silver 3000gts but they have more
of a goldish tint and none of them are vr4s.

Also my car is still backfiring I cant figure it out. I have replaced plugs
and wires. If you dont remember it only backfires above 4000rpms and full
throtle. If it doesnt backfire it studders and feels like I'm not geting
enough fuel. The engine was just rebuilt and bored out. If it is fuel
related what kind of aftermarket fuel pump do you recomend. I am planning on
upping the boost so a better than stock pump is what im looking for. Thanks
for any help!!

Brandon Thomas
a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 18:20:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine flooded with fuel...

Barry, Roger,

Thank you guys for the swift inputs!

Somehow, I managed to fired the engine back up!! =)

I disconnect what I believe is the fuel pump relay(s)
one on the passenger side center console.. one in the
engine compartment.. cranked the engine ALL
afternoon.. was about to try Roger's suggestion and
test the ignition.. plugged all the relays back..
cranked the engine one last time.. WAHLA~ vroom
vroom!!!

Don't know what I did.. but heck.. atleast its
running!!

/George
- --- "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> wrote:
> > Yesterday one of my IC piping blew off while I was
> > driving..
>
> Uups, not properly clamped or the IC piping do not
> have the a small bed at
> the front to prevent slippage :(
>
> > Anyways.. I tried to start the engine and of
> course it
> > wouldn't idle right.. it would die after a second
> or
> > two..
>
> Stupid question : you reconnected the IC piping, did
> you ? What about any
> bad stuff sucked into the IC core ??
>
> > After more cafeful inspection.. found the IC
> piping
> > behind the bumper came off.. so I fixed it.
>
> Ah, ok, all other pipes ok ?
>
> > am told that my engine is probably flooded with
> fuel..
> > and to leave it overnight and it would probably be
> > able to start the next day when the flooded fuel
> > evaporates/or goes away..
>
> Even a totally flooded engine will fire up after a
> few cranks as the gas
> simply is pushed out into the exhaust.
>
> > Would I have damaged anything??
>
> Hmm, first, check if there is any ignition by
> unplugging one wire and lying
> the case against ground to see if there is ignition.
> When doing this, remove
> the connector to the fuel pump relay that is located
> just under the ARC (I
> guess you have the CD ... a must, you know !) so the
> pump will not deliver
> any fuel. If this works, then turn the ARC knobs to
> the position it worked
> before, even one or two clicks leaner in the LOW (of
> course the relay is
> connected again, hehe). Usually, the only danger of
> blowing a pipe off is
> that there can get any dirt in it, especially when
> yo ucrank it the engine
> jsut sucks up the air (unmetered). I also think that
> the plugs are not yet
> fouled as they only will when the rich mixture also
> will be burned and it
> doesn't. The Iridium plugs should be ok, but will be
> burnt off after not so
> many miles. Check them every 5k as I heard people
> telling that they are gone
> after 10k or max 15k, depending on the amount of
> fuel. And our engine need
> fuel for cooling !
>
> Let us know about the ign.
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch
>
>
>
>
>
> ***  Info:
> http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


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Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 22:09:47 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel economy

Simple, Matthew.  Shift low in the RPM range.  The lower the better, but I
have a VR-4 so the gearing is slightly different.  1,000 RPM in 6th is a bit
rattling, but 1,200 is smooth.  This is not the best place for it but
experiment.

On a recent trip to the Blue Ridge Gathering in Asheville, NC I got over 450
miles on a tank of gas (might have been about 18.5 gallons of 93 octane) but
that is over 24 mpg and for a twin turbo car at 4,000 pounds (with luggage
and extra passenger) that is very good.  The trick was cruising Interstates
in 6th and around 70-75 mph which keeps it out of turbo range.  Killing the
A/C and using the flip-up sunroof kept the sun out and the circulating air
in.  As a comparison I am lucky to break 285 miles with the same gas and
weight in daily commuting the 10 miles to work.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One ... and Simpson High Top
shoes and Sparco gloves from OG Racing
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matthew H. Fogle [mailto:foglem@t-three.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 23:49
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Fuel economy

Does anyone have suggestions on how to drive our VR4's for better
milage? I got no owners manual with mine so I don't know the recommened
shift points... Thanks! Oh, it'a a 91 so only 5 speed...

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 01:19:12 EDT
From: LizVong21@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel economy

trade it in for a geo

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:55:54 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: European VR4?? & Backfiring

>How can i tell if my Vr4 was imported into america from Great Britian?

On what side is the steering wheel ???

>On looking on one of the 3000gt sites it said that there wasnt any VR4s
>made with silver paint for the American market in 1992, is this true? I
>have seen silver 3000gts but they have more of a goldish tint and none of
>them are vr4s.

In Europe, we never had silver VR4's bit they were made in that color (both
generations)

>Also my car is still backfiring I cant figure it out. I have replaced
>plugs and wires. If you dont remember it only backfires above 4000rpms and
>full throtle. If it doesnt backfire it studders and feels like I'm not
>geting enough fuel. The engine was just rebuilt and bored out. If it is
>fuel related what kind of aftermarket fuel pump do you recomend. I am
>planning on upping the boost so a better than stock pump is what im
>looking for. Thanks for any help!!

First get everything fixed, have you already checked the timing belt and
are cam properly aligned ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:24:37 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU and Cat Converter question

>This question of this ECU failure brings to mind maintenance of the ECU  to
>prevent exactly what has occurred in this situation. Has anyone advise on
>intervals to check it, what to look for and any maintenance procedures that
>might be involved. It seems we service other items on the car regularly but
>do nothing with this until failure occurs. Thoughts.

Hmm, it highly depends on what quality of the C's have been soldered in. Of
course the best protection is to unsolder the original ones and to put high
quality closed ones in it. They should hold longer than anythign else in
the car.

But removing the ECU is not easy for everyone, especially as the harness is
filled up with connections to lots of new devices ;-) So it can't be called
any kind of maintenance. I have two ECUs (European and G-Force) and noone
of them is showing any bad sign. To be honest, you should check every
electrical connection and any control unit on a regular basis and we don't
as it is just too hard to open them or to inspect them.

IMHO, if something is going weird and finally cannot be counted to anything
else, it is worth to pull the ECU and to inspect it. Otherwise, leave it as
it is.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 21 Aug 00 06:40:57 MDT
From: Mark Creekmore <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Power window and antenae

Yes that was for a dealer to replace the whole thing. The $60 from Crutchfield
was also for a part to replace the whole thing and I did the labor myself.

Mark


AABOMB1@aol.com wrote:

  >I'm not sure about the power window problem but you can buy a new power
  >antenna from Cructhfield for about $60. I put one in my Maxima and my
Stealth
  >and they work great. It costs about $250 for a dealer to do it, parts and
  >labor.

  250 dollars? Umm, are you takling abou the motor included? Because I bought
  the mast for 30 bucks at my local mitsubishi dealer.

  AA

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 17:05:25 +0200
From: Jim Matthews <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel economy

"Schilberg, Darren" wrote:
>
> Simple, Matthew.  Shift low in the RPM range.  The lower the better, but I
> have a VR-4 so the gearing is slightly different.  1,000 RPM in 6th is a bit
> rattling, but 1,200 is smooth.  This is not the best place for it but
> experiment.

The lower the better within reason!  Lugging the engine ("rattling") for
extended periods can result in insufficient oil flow to the bearings.  On those
rare occasions when I'm willing to drive my Stealth like an economy car, I can
manage an average 23-24 mpg by keeping the RPMs to around 2000.  This would be
good for 450 miles or so per fillup for those willing to suck the sludge from
the bottom of their tank, but the cost of replacement fuel filters would offset
the savings at the pump.  ;-)

- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer, diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 11:15:14 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel economy

Touché.

I should have explained better.  On a recent article about the new Porsche
Boxster S it said that even in 6th gear accelerating from 1,000 rpm is a
smooth transition.  I thought I would try my own experiment on this and have
found that 1,200 rpm on a 1995 VR-4 with 45k miles is where is begins to be
smooth.  I don't do that regularly so I'm not rattling the car to death.

As for the 450 miles and running on vapors ... that mileage was when my wife
the co-driver insisted I stop at a gas station to fill up.  There was still
another 20-30 miles left (since that is what the fuel light means with its
reserve capacity of about a gallon).  I didn't run it dry so the fuel pump
and any bad icky things at the bottom of the tank weren't sucked into the
fuel lines.

*sigh* Oh for the days of my 1996 I-4 Accord EX which could get 515 miles on
14.5 gallons in 5th gear.  That was on a trip to Wyoming during the night so
the efficiency was fantastic.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Matthews [mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2000 11:05 AM
To: Schilberg, Darren
Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel economy

"Schilberg, Darren" wrote:
>
> Simple, Matthew.  Shift low in the RPM range.  The lower the better, but I
> have a VR-4 so the gearing is slightly different.  1,000 RPM in 6th is a
bit
> rattling, but 1,200 is smooth.  This is not the best place for it but
> experiment.

The lower the better within reason!  Lugging the engine ("rattling") for
extended periods can result in insufficient oil flow to the bearings.  On
those
rare occasions when I'm willing to drive my Stealth like an economy car, I
can
manage an average 23-24 mpg by keeping the RPMs to around 2000.  This would
be
good for 450 miles or so per fillup for those willing to suck the sludge
from
the bottom of their tank, but the cost of replacement fuel filters would
offset
the savings at the pump.  ;-)


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 10:38:24 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel economy

> I didn't run it dry so the fuel pump and any bad
> icky things at the bottom of the tank weren't
> sucked into the fuel lines.

The fuel pump pickup always sucks from the bottom of the tank, so there's no
difference whether it is full or near-empty.  There's also a filter on the
pump pickup as well, so no problem running the tank down.  Fuel will help
cool the pump, but it seems designed well enough where it'll run fine
without fuel sloshing around it.

Had the pump out of my car a week or so ago, and after 5 years and 53,000
miles the tank is spotless inside and no dirt/sludge/slime.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 11:01:02 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK vs. Aircharger

The Aircharger for the Eclipse (#63-1000) is $81.50 from CarParts.  The FIPK
for the 3/S (#57-1500) is $117.95 from CarParts.  The FIPK has less surface
area, but does come with a cleaning kit. ($8 value)  They mount slightly
different too.  The FIPK comes with a bracket that mounts to one of the MAS
bolts.  The Aircharger has a bolt stud coming out of the head of the cone
that you mount a L bracket too.  Both filters will work the exact same on a
3/S.

I have discount links on my CarParts page to save some money on these
filters.  Go to:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html

If you buy the Aircharger, use my 1/3rd off discount.  If you buy the FIPK,
use the $50 off your first $100.  This will make both filters a GREAT price.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org


>From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK vs. Aircharger
>Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 23:42:07 +0200
>
> > I remember hearing somewhere that the K&N aircharger for the eclipse
> > will fit the stealth/3000GT, and that it is a better deal and better
> > performing than the FIPK for the stealth/3000gt.  Can anyone comment
> > from experience here?
>
>- Aircharger for 2nd gen DSM wil lfit with a little mod of mounting bracket
>(easy)
>- Aircharger $90, FIPK$150 = better deal
>- Aircharger is not CARB approved in California
>- Not more performance gain
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>www.rtec.ch
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 11:24:35 -0500
From: "David B. Kopacz" <kopacz@vss.fsi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel economy

Darren Schilberg wrote:

> I didn't run it dry so the fuel pump and any bad
> icky things at the bottom of the tank weren't
> sucked into the fuel lines.


Jannusch, Matt responded:

MJ> The fuel pump pickup always sucks from the bottom of the tank, so
MJ> there's no difference whether it is full or near-empty.


That is true, but it reminds me of a problem I had a few years ago.
On my old Honda, there was a standpipe in the bottom of the tank and
you didn't ever get to the last gallon of fuel.  This also helped
protect you from the icky things in the bottom of the tank.  Due to a
design problem with the fill pipe on that car, I got a lot of rusty
water in my gas tank.  Even after replacing the fill pipe, my
problems weren't over -- the tank still had some water in the bottom.
It eventually rusted through the standpipe and caused no end of fuel
problems.

After having the gas tank cleaned out twice, replacing the fuel pump
and both fuel filters once or twice, and having the carburetor worked
on many times, I finally gave up and donated the car to charity.

Does anybody know if the Stealth has a standpipe in the gas tank?


David



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 10:37:36 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: European VR4?? & Backfiring

you are overboosting.

check all your hoses. I am sure one is disconnected or misconnected, making
the wastegates inoperable.



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "brandon thomas" <a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2000 6:09 PM
Subject: Team3S: European VR4?? & Backfiring


> How can i tell if my Vr4 was imported into america from Great Britian? You
> know thoses sticker they put on vechicle imported for Europe well my car
has
> one. It looks just like the one on my friends land rover which he said
meant
> my car had been in Great Britian. On looking on one of the 3000gt sites it
> said that there wasnt any VR4s made with silver paint for the American
> market in 1992, is this true? I have seen silver 3000gts but they have
more
> of a goldish tint and none of them are vr4s.
>
> Also my car is still backfiring I cant figure it out. I have replaced
plugs
> and wires. If you dont remember it only backfires above 4000rpms and full
> throtle. If it doesnt backfire it studders and feels like I'm not geting
> enough fuel. The engine was just rebuilt and bored out. If it is fuel
> related what kind of aftermarket fuel pump do you recomend. I am planning
on
> upping the boost so a better than stock pump is what im looking for.
Thanks
> for any help!!
>
> Brandon Thomas
> a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 13:52:00 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: Team3S: 1995 VR-4 wastegate/blow off valve

Is there only a wastegate on a stock 1995 VR-4?  How would a blow off valve
connect and are they tunable?  I see some that are set to a specific psi but
what if I want it to open sooner or later?

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 12:00:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1995 VR-4 wastegate/blow off valve

On our cars, each turbocharger has an integral wastgate to allow
exhaust gases to go around the turbine wheel and on into the exhaust
pipes. There is also one "turbocharger bypass valve" that attaches to
the main intake hose directly and to the Y-pipe by a 1" hose. This
bypass valve is often referred to as a blow-off valve. Other types of
BOVs are located in the exhaust system and has a function similar to
that of a wastegate or in the intake system as a boost limiter. We do
not have this type of BOV (in the sense that it was designed as a
boost controller). Our stock bypass valve is not adjustable, but some
aftermarket bypass valves/BOVs are. The adjustment determines at what
differential pressure (between plenum and Y-pipe) the bypass valve
will open to relieve pressure build-up between throttle body and
turbos (due to the throttle plate closing).

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
To: "Team3S (E-mail)" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2000 11:52 AM
Subject: Team3S: 1995 VR-4 wastegate/blow off valve

Is there only a wastegate on a stock 1995 VR-4?  How would a blow off
valve connect and are they tunable?  I see some that are set to a
specific psi but what if I want it to open sooner or later?

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi


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