team3s
Sunday, August 20
2000
Volume 01 : Number
238
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 19 Aug 2000 03:07:05 EDT
From:
Cullen123@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
turbocharging base stealth.
How would I go abotu turbocharging a base
stealth? Would it be worth it at all? I have a '92 base, with the
SOHC engine, and I want some more horsepower in my car. Mustangs are a
little out of reach for my 164 horses :( I saw Rick D's turbos for sale
and got to thinking.... Also, the rear wheel bearings are going out in my
car, making funky clunks and grinding sounds. Napa says they can get the
wheel bearing hub assembly for 100 bucks, and I have to get the whole assembly
as the bearings can't just be replaced. Anyone have any suggestions for a
cheap place to shop for some new bearings? Thanks for any
help!
~Cullen King
'92 green base Stealth
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 04:00:25
-0000
From: "Sue Smith" <
saintsue@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: EGTs with and without upgraded turbos at ? psi
I assume many
people have EGT gauges. I would like to know what kind of
EGTs people
have with various boost settings and turbos on PUMP gas. I know
Trevor
said he got to 1620F @ 15psi with his 15Gs, but isn't it possible
that the
fuel injector he thought might have been bad (which caused his
engine's
demise) led to a lean a/f ratio, and therefore higher than normal
EGTs?
So maybe with a proper working set of fuel injectors they would be
lower than
that.
Anyone?
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 04:13:46
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Keyless programming
On my samples page on the Manualcd.com site,
you can download/view the
keyless reprogram procedure. For easy access, w/o
actually going
through the site to find it, click here!
http://www.twingles.com/manualcd/dsmgift/keyless.pdfThere
is also a neat procedure for the 97+ DSM's which might apply to
really late
model 3000gt's too... but you have to check the samples
page for that. Hope
that helped!
Vineet Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
RE: From: Ian marks <
ianmarks@earthlink.net>
>Subject:
Team3S: Keyless remote repair/replace for Stealth
>Does anyone have
any suggestions for repairing my keyless entry
system on my
>battery in
the remote itself and it lights up when the buttons
are
pushed.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 04:36:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: boost differences
With the throttle plate wide open (WOT),
there should be very little
difference in pressure between the plenum and
Y-pipe. There must of
course always be a pressure gradient of some sort for
there to be
flow. I imagine the best place to actually measure the intake
air
pressure would be in the manifold itself. But that is not
practical.
The plenum is the next best choice. The Y-pipe is not a
particularly
good choice because the throttle plate at part throttle can
cause a
severe pressure difference between plenum and Y-pipe. This is
after
all why we have a BOV and how it works (and why we have a vacuum
at
idle and low throttle). If the goal is to determine what the
density
(or pressure) of the air is that is going into the cylinders,
then
the plenum (or manifold) is the best choice - and where the
boost
gauge tap is normally located. If the goal is to measure pressure
at
various points in the IC system (to determine loss for example)
then
taps in the Y-pipe and at other places in the IC system would be
good
choices.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 19, 2000 4:04 AM
Subject: Team3S: boost
differences
> For all those that have installed boost
controllers,
> some boost lines are lead off the Y-pipe, and
others
> are tapped into the intake plenum.
>
> In terms of
measured PSI, is there a REAL difference between
> the two
locations?
> I'm concerned if the difference at 1 bar is in reality closer
to
16psi
> because of an incorrect boost measurement.
> Any
thoughts?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
Noble
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 14:15:50
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbocharging base stealth; wheel bearings; CV joint FS
Cullen123@aol.com wrote:
>
>
How would I go abotu turbocharging a base stealth? Would it be worth it at
all? I have a '92 base, with the SOHC engine, and I want some more
horsepower in my car. Mustangs are a little out of reach for my 164 horses
:( I saw Rick D's turbos for sale and got to thinking.... Also, the
rear wheel bearings are going out in my car, making funky clunks and grinding
sounds. Napa says they can get the wheel bearing hub assembly for 100
bucks, and I have to get the whole assembly as the bearings can't just be
replaced. Anyone have any suggestions for a cheap place to shop for some
new bearings? Thanks for any help!
Probably cheaper and
more reliable to trade it in on one that is turbocharged
from the
factory. You would also get (depending on year) AWD, AWS, ECS,
better
brakes, an engine bay Mitsu mechanics know how to work on, leather,
etc., etc.
I recently purchased a genuine Mitsubishi front wheel bearing
from Tallahassee
Mitsu for less than $70. Too bad installation wasn't
that cheap! I also
purchased a front CV joint (special order and $$$)
which I ended up not needing
(a broken wheel bearing race was the culprit);
if anyone needs one, please buy
it from me and I'll pay shipping.
:-)
- -Jim (having just wrestled four seized wheels off of my '95 Odyssey
to replace
brake pads that didn't need replacing - argh!)
- --
Jim
Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 17:33:08
+0300
From: 363 EARS/TANK121 <
363EARS.TANK121@psab.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: EGTs with and without upgraded turbos at ? psi
My car
datalogged great and both of my O2 sensors showed .94-.96V while at
WOT for
the few weeks I drove the car before it broke. One or two
injectors
completely quit working one day while at full throttle (Going to
send them
back to RC and get them tested when I get back from Saudi Arabia).
1620F was
usually the peak that I noticed. I got about the same EGT's with
the stock
turbos and fuel system at 15 psi peak. Just for side info my EGT
probe is
about 3" off the front head right on top of the front
manifold.
Trevor
-----Original Message-----
From: Sue Smith [
mailto:saintsue@netzero.net]
Sent:
Saturday, August 19, 2000 7:00 AM
To: Team 3/S List
Subject: Team3S: EGTs
with and without upgraded turbos at ?
psi
I assume many people have
EGT gauges. I would like to know what
kind of
EGTs people have with
various boost settings and turbos on PUMP gas.
I know
Trevor said he got
to 1620F @ 15psi with his 15Gs, but isn't it
possible
that the fuel
injector he thought might have been bad (which caused
his
engine's demise)
led to a lean a/f ratio, and therefore higher than
normal
EGTs? So
maybe with a proper working set of fuel injectors they
would be
lower than
that.
Anyone?
_______________________________________________
Why pay for
something you could get for free?
NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and
Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html***
Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 12:57:29
-0400
From: "Ukyo[T]" <
ukyo@avana.net>
Subject: Team3S: I
finally drove a VR4!!!
With all of you guys having VR4s or RT/TT
machines, I had to see
just what I am missing out on. I found a '95 VR4
at a Chevy dealer
a few miles from my house. I set up a test drive
time, and went out
after work a few days ago. We looked the car over,
then the time
came to take it out. My '97 base coupe is an automatic,
so I was
filled with the dread of stalling out in traffic. Luckily I
was able to
pull it off with only grinding the gears once (and that was due
to
sitting too far back from the clutch).
I ramble... Sorry, I
am still excited over this. :)
VR4s are INCREDIBLE. I've
never been in a car that can do 85 at
2000 rpms and still have another gear
to go. The dealer made me
promise to not get us locked up on the test
drive so I had to keep it
calm. I told him I wanted to test 6th gear,
and he said go ahead,
but make it quick. I tached up to about 4000rpm,
pushed in the
clutch, and popped it into 6th right as the turbo gauge
maxed. I thought
the car was going to run out from under me. We
went from
85 ~ 90 to about 120 in an instant. My base coupe struggles
at
around 100 ~ 105 mph, so jumping to 120 like that was
almost
scary.
Wow... I have to get one of those cars. I
still love my base coupe, but a
VR4 is now on my must have list. He
asked me if I wanted to trade
in my base coupe on it, but I still owe a fair
amount of money. The
'95 VR4 was $18,500. I was so tempted, but I
have to do the right
thing and wait a year or so before I plunge into my
inevitable VR4.
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK /
Red)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 11:54:30
-0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Time for nitrous
Ok, I'm finally going to do it. Will be buying a low
horsepower dry system
within the next week or so. I know NOS makes a kit that
I've heard is pretty
reliable (and complete?). Has anyone installed a system
by anyone else?
Venom, ZEX, Nitrous Express, etc? If so, what has been your
experience?
Looks like they're all about the same price.
Thanks for
any input.
Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 17:43:22
EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Radar Detector/Jammer Concealed Unit?
Matthew, check out
http://www.3000gt.com/radar.htm
for info about jammers and
detectors.
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 17:39:20
EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Power window and antenae
>I'm not sure about the power
window problem but you can buy a new power
>antenna from Cructhfield for
about $60. I put one in my Maxima and my Stealth
>and they work great. It
costs about $250 for a dealer to do it, parts and
>labor.
250
dollars? Umm, are you takling abou the motor included? Because I bought
the
mast for 30 bucks at my local mitsubishi dealer.
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 18:23:20
-0700
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
K&N FIPK vs. Aircharger
I remember hearing somewhere that the K&N
aircharger for the eclipse
will fit the stealth/3000GT, and that it is a
better deal and better
performing than the FIPK for the stealth/3000gt.
Can anyone comment
from experience here?
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 21:49:17
-0600
From: "Matthew H. Fogle" <
foglem@t-three.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fuel economy
Does anyone have suggestions on how to drive our VR4's for
better
milage? I got no owners manual with mine so I don't know the
recommened
shift points... Thanks! Oh, it'a a 91 so only 5
speed...
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 00:03:12
CDT
From: "Danny Erick" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU and Cat Converter question
First off, thanks guys! Without
your help I NEVER would have been able to
diagnose my cars problem. Jim
Wiseman, I believe you're the one who actually
hit the nail on the head by
guessing it was bad capacitators in the ECU.
Well I opened it up tonite and
you guessed it, the 16V capacitor is leaking
and just beginning to eat
through the board! Now, what would you guys do
with it? Should I go to a
local electronics shop, send it to
foreignecurepair.com, or buy a whole used
one from a junk yard? Any
suggestions?
Secondly, does anyone have
instructions that a layman could follow for
gutting the pre-cats? I looked
through every 3/S site I could find today and
no luck...=(
Thanks
again! Hopefully now my car will be running by next summer and I can
meet a
few of you owners face-to-face!
Dan Erick
92 Stealth R/T TT with a bad
ECU
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 12:19:16
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine flooded with fuel...
Hi Everybody..
Yesterday one
of my IC piping blew off while I was
driving.. its was the piping that
connects to the IC
behind the front bumper so I didnt catch it
right
away.. had the car towed home..
Anyways.. I tried to start the
engine and of course it
wouldn't idle right.. it would die after a second
or
two.. thinking it was some sort of a fuel starve
problem.. i begun
pumping fuel while starting the
engine.. I turned the ARC unit to rich..
etc.. after a
while.. the engine would not fire up anymore!
After more
cafeful inspection.. found the IC piping
behind the bumper came off.. so I
fixed it.. but the
engine would not fire up at all! The engine
would
turn when I try to start it.. but it won't fire up.. I
am told that
my engine is probably flooded with fuel..
and to leave it overnight and it
would probably be
able to start the next day when the flooded
fuel
evaporates/or goes away..
Well.. this is the next day.. the
engine still won't
fire up~
Anyone know what to do now? Wait
another day??
Would I have damaged anything??
Any help is
appreciated!! Thanks!
/George
'92 RT
TT
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#238
*********************