team3s
Thursday, August 17
2000 Volume 01
: Number
236
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 16 Aug 2000 20:11:55 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
OVERBOOST
> Questions for you fine folks:
> *WTF? (The gauge
appears to be working perfectly!?)
Verify against another known good
gauge. If it agrees, chances are good
that the boost you read now is
reasonably accurate.
> *How can I be boosting these pressures without
hitting fuel cut or the
> engine timing retarding?
How do you know
the engine timing is not retarding?
Perhaps the engine is not as stock as
you think. Some people with VR4s
tweaked them then undid what they
could before selling.
I never hit fuel cut even though I would peak at
around 21 PSI when the car
was stock other than filter, exhaust and manual
boost control.
You likely don' want to run those boost levels without
excellent high octane
fuel and also not for extended periods on a stock
engine without adequate
fuel control. Eventually you will break
something very expensive and
tedious to repair, but it will be fun doing
it.
There is a plastic 'H' fitting behind the engine between the firewall
and
the engine. This fitting will tell you a lot. If it is there
and is an
'H', it is stock. If it is a 'T' it is not stock and someone
has been in
there. If it is stock, check it for cracks and leaks.
Also check the small
hoses running all about. Cracks in some of these
can lead to an overboost
condition as you descibe since it can vent the
manifold pressure to
atmosphere thereby deferring actuation of the
wastegates.
It could well be that someone has installed a manual boost
controller. Find
the fittings coming from the turbos and trace them
around and see where they
lead. That'll tell you a lot.
>
*Does the engine light come on when the knock sensors detect
pinging?
No.
> *I noticed that the wastegates had adjustments
on the rods out of the
> accuators- could they be "unscrewed to the max? I
just don't get it.
Maybe. The rods are adjustable. Check them
and see.
> *What is the connector that is electrical taped to a hose
in the
> following picture:
http://www.geocities.com/captainrye/VR4.htmlThat
connector is for the front O2 sensor. Every TT/VR4 has this
connector
from '91 on, just not all of them are taped in that particular
location.
> *Will I get accurate readings from the location that I
hooked up the
> gauge? (Picture also at the avove site)
That
location works okay. You want the pressure on the MANIFOLD side
(where
you have it) of the TB not the Y-pipe side. Reading pressure
before the TB
is not the pressure in the manifold (obviously) and therefore
not the
pressure the engine actually sees.
> Sorry for the long
post--- Any help would be appreciated...
>
> Ryan
> '93 VR4
Pumping 21 pounds of Umph for 4 months and never knowing
it.
Barry
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 23:14:07
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Front wheel clunk (resubmission)
Hello =)
I have very recently
started hearing a clunk near my front left wheel.
It is very infrequent,
doesn't necessarily need hard braking, but is
common when braking or
turning. It seems as if it 'sets' in one
position, then when I
accelerate in the opposite direction, it clunks
again, like it was going back
into place... Example: I will hear a
clunk while turning, and it
will stay that way until I first hit the
brakes. Or, I will hear it
clunk when almost at a stop, then again when
I let off the brake to
accelerate. One tech told me this is ball joints
- - any
thoughts? What does it take to repair? I'm an engine and
tranny
guy, not chassis yet!
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
New Getrag, RPS Turbo Clutch
Snake Eyes, K&N, plates
007KEN
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 23:30:44
EDT
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
OVERBOOST
Seems to me that maybe the wastegate has possibly been bypassed
altogether. I
understand that we can only make about 23 max PSI with no
wastegate at all on
factory turbos (correct me if I am wrong. Without an
injector upgrade this is
very bad, most certainly causing timing retardation
and possibly detonation.
I have also heard of cars bought where fuel cut has
been disabled.
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 22:36:33
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Off to N'Awlins
I am headed to New Orleans for a week, so if I
don't respond to you fine
folks, please forgive. I have some open threads
going right now on brake
fixes, a rotor project and assorted off-line
conversations, so please don't
think I'm being rude.
I'm shutting down
now and won't be back til next Friday.
Yeah, yeah, I know -- New Orleans
in August. It wasn't my idea to put a
trade show there in August, but I gotta
go.
Nevertheless, I intend to hear all the Dixieland Jazz I can, wander
Bourbon
Street to all hours, eat Cajun and Creole food, have beignets
every
morning, attend the jazz breakfast at the Court of Two Sisters, go
to
Preservation Hall, take the vampire tour...
Last time I was there,
I walked into a used bookstore and heard a black
dude and a white dude
discussing a book in French. Now that's something you
don't see every day in
mainstreet USA.
Gawd, I love the Big Easy.
Please don't respond. I
won't be here to hear it, and you'll just clutter
the
bandwidth.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/bye y'all
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 00:48:17
EDT
From:
PFloyd91@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Bra For 3000GT?
My apologies for posting such a "simple"
question, but I have
been to every $%#@ site I can find to try and
determine
which bra I want to get for my 95 3000GT.
The only thing I
have been able to determine, is that the
Colgan bras are considered the
"top-of-the-line". BUT,
there are no pictures anywhere, that I can find on
ANY
brand, that actually shows a bra ON a 3000.
I do not plan to have
the bra on the car except on the
occasional two/three day trips I take quite
often. I am
aware that bras should not be left on much more than
that
because of paint damage, etc. I remember the
previous threads on all of
that.
If you want, you can email jpgs of your car w/bra, sites
with
3000 photos, or other information to me via private email,
in order
not to clog the list.
TIA
John H.
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 06:37:11
-0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Seem like the twilight zone to me?
About a month ago I posted a
question about poor engine performance after
a water pump replacement with
the subject " Valve/cam timing, is that the
problem?" Responses from Cody and
others were a big help in sorting the
problem which turned out to be an
intake cam on the back bank of cylinders
that was 5 teeth off from where it
should have been. I went back to the
dealer and discussed the problem with
the owner and shop manager who
agreed that there had been a major error that
they would have to fix. They
provided a loaner car to drive and when I
picked-up my Stealth from them a
few days later, it was again running like it
had before the problem began.
The only difference I noticed was a slight
jerkiness when I was cruising
at low speed in 2nd gear (sort of like the
engine was occasionally
missing; however, this seemed really
minor).
Well, it's been about 4 weeks since that repair and up until
yesterday the
engine ran well except for the slight jerkiness I mentioned
above.
Yesterday, as I was preparing for a long road trip to Cleveland
Ohio,
things changed, seemingly instantaneously (the car ran fine on the
way
home from the car wash and then started running not so well when I
hopped
in for another short trip to the gym). The symptoms were similar to
what I
had experienced when the intake cam was 5 teeth off (e.g. lack of
power,
missing, louder exhaust note), but were not as bad. Since the
symptoms
were similar, I decided to check the cam timing again before I left
on my
trip to Cleveland this morning at 4:00 AM. What I found was that
the
intake cam on the back bank of cylinders was again off the mark, this
time
by 3 teeth. Needless to say, I canceled my trip.
Since the car
had been running fine and the change in performance happened
more or less
instantaneously, I can only conclude that the belt somehow
slipped on the
intake cam. But, how can a belt slip on just one cam. All
the other cams and
the crank timing mark were "spot on." The one possible
explanation that I can
think of is not a happy one, i.e. the intake valves
on the rear cylinder bank
did tap the pistons as a result of the initial
cam timing problem, but ever
so slightly, and this slightly bent the valve
stems. Then, somehow, the bent
valve stems have been momentarily jamming
the rear intake cam and this has,
over time, resulted in the timing belt
slipping and yesterday the slippage
got far enough along that it really
became noticeable.
Does this
sound plausible? Does anyone else have any idea about how this
slippage could
have occurred?
Thanks,
Steve
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 08:15:16
-0400
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Newbie problems continue?
It looks like my situation has changed somewhat
today. On my way to work
today I was going down a 4-lane highway when I
started to here a squeaking
sound. After about 2 miles I heard a snap
and the engine cut off. The
coolant temperature started to go up and
there was smoke coming from the
pulley area. I am starting to think it
is the timing belt, which I
understand also runs the water pump?
Correct me if I am wrong but I have
heard that the piston to valve clearance
is close enough to cause some
serious damage if the cam timing goes
south. I thinking I probably have a
matched set of pretzel valves (oh
boy, $$$$). The big question is what to
do know?
Before
starting the 2 mile walk to work this morning, I looked up into the
sky and
asked 'why me lord'? A large and majestic hand then came down from
the
heavens, pointed at my general location and decreed in no
uncertain
terms. 'BECAUSE YOU PISS ME OFF'.
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:35:42
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Fwd: Re: Team3S: Seem like the twilight zone to me?
>Date: Thu, 17 Aug
2000 13:50:29 +0200
>To: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
>From:
Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Seem like the twilight zone to me?
>
>Yes, this is a
very possible theory you noted !
>
>I'd go even further and assume
that they probably did not used the proper
>technique to remove the
timing belt and initally damaged the valves so
>they are caused a major
restriction in the move. Also we don't know if
>they removed the rear
cams once and the used the wrong torqueing on the
>bolts on the cam
blocks. Als this can cause more moving friction that
>finally may cause
the slippeage as well as a too loose and older, worn
>timing belt
!
>
>Well, they have to do a leaking test on all cyls in the rear to
find out
>if the valves are slightly bent ! Also when the timing belt is
off, the
>cam should be moved by hand and the whole cam must be inspected
for
>grooves where the rollers are sitting on.
>
>In either
way, it's a big mistake from the dealer and they have to fix it
>for sure
!
>
>Good luck
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>>Since the car had
been running fine and the change in performance happened
>>more or less
instantaneously, I can only conclude that the belt somehow
>>slipped on
the intake cam. But, how can a belt slip on just one cam. All
>>the
other cams and the crank timing mark were "spot on." The one
possible
>>explanation that I can think of is not a happy one, i.e. the
intake valves
>>on the rear cylinder bank did tap the pistons as a
result of the initial
>>cam timing problem, but ever so slightly, and
this slightly bent the valve
>>stems. Then, somehow, the bent valve
stems have been momentarily jamming
>>the rear intake cam and this has,
over time, resulted in the timing belt
>>slipping and yesterday the
slippage got far enough along that it really
>>became
noticeable.
>>
>>Does this sound plausible? Does anyone else
have any idea about how this
>>slippage could have
occurred?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:40:43
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Newbie problems continue?
>coolant temperature started to
go up and there was smoke coming from the
>pulley area. I am
starting to think it is the timing belt, which I
>understand also runs the
water pump?
Yes, this is correct.
> Correct me if I
am wrong but I have
>heard that the piston to valve clearance is close
enough to cause some
>serious damage if the cam timing goes
south.
Yes, heavy damage can occur, including the rockers, lifter and
cams.... I
have soon pics online of such a problem !
>
I thinking I probably have a
>matched set of pretzel valves (oh boy,
$$$$). The big question is what to
>do know?
The first thing
to check is if the timing belt is off. This is easy and if
so you know that
the heads must come off ! Before this, one can do a
compression and leakdown
test to see if the valve are still able to close,
but when the piston
already kissed them .... no chance !
But it sounds like a stuck water
pump and this was why you heard the noise
(from the belt at the water
pulley) . The of course the water boiled as it
was not transported anymore
and the ECU shuts off the engine (hopefully
early enough).
Good
luck
ROger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 13:37:19
GMT
From: "Ryan Meador" <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OVERBOOST
Many of you asked how I knew that the timing was
not retarding---Well, I was
assuming- (Yes I know the old saying...) because
in my old 91 Supra Turbo,
the engine light would quickly go on when the
knock sensor detected ping.
Not to mention that it drastically retarded
timing- making the car bog.
Can the 3000's reduce timing in incriments?
If
I check, will I have an engine code stored that shows it has been
retarded
at some point (even if the engine light never illuminated)?
Matt was
right- It pulls like hell until the RPM's get to 4K---It MUST be
being
retarded beyond that point.
I'll check the vaccume lines from the wastegates
to the Boost Control
Soleniod tonight I report my findings.
Thanks for
your quick help Matt, Barry, Wayne & Mike.
- -Ryan
How do
you know the engine timing is not
retarding?
________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 15:47:29
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OVERBOOST
>Can the 3000's reduce timing in
incriments?
Yes, it does in degrees as a negative offset to the choosen
value from the
ignition map.
>If I check, will I have an engine
code stored that shows it has been
>retarded at some point (even if the
engine light never illuminated)?
No, nothing at all !
>Matt was
right- It pulls like hell until the RPM's get to 4K---It MUST be
>being
retarded beyond that point.
Seems that you have some severe knock then as
under full load detonation
starts around 4250rpm and timing gets retarded.
You can't really feel it a
lot just loosing power and the EGT rises. If
knock is too high the ECU
initatiates fuel cut and you'll bite into the
steering wheel.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 07:38:17
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Newbie problems continue?
Do the obvious first --- check the serpentine
belt. If an idler pulley freezes up the belt
will squeal and finally break
[the snap].The belt is then free to do miscellaneous
damage by jamming itself
into places it doesn't belong.
Jim Berry [ I helped a guy a year ago that had the same problem
]
============================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Donnelly, Michael <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
> It
looks like my situation has changed somewhat today. On my way to
work
> today I was going down a 4-lane highway when I started to here a
squeaking
> sound. After about 2 miles I heard a snap and the engine
cut off. The
> coolant temperature started to go up and there was
smoke coming from the
> pulley area. ***
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 08:58:28
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front wheel clunk (resubmission)
Chassis is fairly
easy. Usually, the first thing to check is the ball
joint. Not
hard to replace either. 2nd thing to check if the ball joint is
good is
the CV joint. Those are usually the only 2 point of failure unless
you
want to think the worse and your wheel bearings are real bad and have
toasted
your axel but from what you describe, it probably is the ball joint.
If you
are mechanically inclined, you can probably do the job in about an
hour or
so.
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang (getting primed this
Saturday! Yipee!)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken
Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: "Team3S
Stealth" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 16, 2000 9:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Front wheel clunk
(resubmission)
> Hello =)
>
> I have very recently
started hearing a clunk near my front left wheel.
> It is very infrequent,
doesn't necessarily need hard braking, but is
> common when braking or
turning. It seems as if it 'sets' in one
> position, then when I
accelerate in the opposite direction, it clunks
> again, like it was going
back into place... Example: I will hear a
> clunk while
turning, and it will stay that way until I first hit the
> brakes.
Or, I will hear it clunk when almost at a stop, then again when
> I let
off the brake to accelerate. One tech told me this is ball joints
>
- any thoughts? What does it take to repair? I'm an engine and
tranny
> guy, not chassis yet!
>
> Thanks!
> Ken
Stanton
> '91 Pearl White RT/TT
> New Getrag, RPS Turbo
Clutch
> Snake Eyes, K&N, plates 007KEN
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com>
>
>
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*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 10:32:38
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front wheel clunk (resubmission)
> ...It probably is the
ball joint. If you are mechanically
> inclined, you can probably do
the job in about an hour or so.
Aren't the ball joints pressed into the
A-arms? And not available from
Mitsubishi (only aftermarket)?
You'd need to get them pressed out and new
ones pressed in = machine shop
time.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 10:21:08
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front wheel clunk (resubmission)
You're local Pep Boys or
basic shop can press those in. It's not a big
deal. Most of the
time they'll do it for $5 or so. The lower 'A' arm comes
off real
easy. What's really fun is getting the tie rod off. You'll need
a
"Fork" for that one because pound it out won't budge it.
Ken
Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
"Team3S Stealth" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 17, 2000 9:32 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front wheel clunk
(resubmission)
> > ...It probably is the ball joint. If
you are mechanically
> > inclined, you can probably do the job in about
an hour or so.
>
> Aren't the ball joints pressed into the
A-arms? And not available from
> Mitsubishi (only
aftermarket)? You'd need to get them pressed out and new
> ones
pressed in = machine shop time.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
> *** Info:
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***
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 12:58:17
-0700
From: vect0r0 <
vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1992 Stealth ENGINE REBUILD UPDATE *PLEASE READ*
A while back 2
rod bearings were spun on my 92/RT/TT. The engine is now
pulled out,
and at the shop. The guy has selected an OEM style piston
(forgot the
name of them) that are a slight increase in durability and
slightly lighter
than the stock piston. He is suggesting a 20 over
engine bore, port
matching the intake/exaust and a complete valve job
(to turn the engine into
a BRAND NEW blue-printed engiene so to speek).
What information regarding
the piston selection, rings, overboar,
port-matching, valve job, etc. should
I be warned about before I allow
this guy to just arbitrarily order parts to
replace the stock ones?
Like: Piston Selection. Must there be
a special TYPE or STYLE piston
or type of rings that are necessary
(gapless/etc)?
Overboar: Any damage/pre-mature wear/etc can be
caused?
Valve Job: Type of valves to replace with? 3 Angle Valve
Job?
Anything SPECIAL I should tell him about our heads before getting
parts?
This guy has only re-built ONE stealth engine before and Id like
to make
sure Im not getting myself in trouble here..... He quoted me a
price
of: $1700 for 6 pistons, 6 rods, 6 rod bearings, main bearings,
crank,
all gaskets, oil pump (and maybe a few more minor things). Does
this
sound reasonable?
Thanks VERY much for ANY insight on this as Im
ready to get back on the
road after 2 months of downtime
;)
John
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:03:20
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost Controller
Ok, I'm ready to buy a boost controller. I
want to spend around $500 or
less, want the fuzzy logic, built in boost
pressure guage, and, well, I
don't know much more about them. Any ideas
or where to get one? I've
talked to Brian at GT-Pro so I know their
lineup but I just like to do a
little homework before I make a big purchase
like this.
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 13:32:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1992 Stealth ENGINE REBUILD UPDATE *PLEASE
READ*
John,
$1700 sounds like a great bargain, depending on the
new/used nature
of the components. Is this parts only? If I remember
correctly, a new
crank is something like $600 from Tall Mitsu. Pistons maybe
around
$100 each??? In fact you can give them (and Norco) a call to get
the
best prices on all OEM replacements. I paid almost $1000 for
forged
pistons, moly rings, and shipping.
Over-bore: I safely (as far
as I know) went with a 0.050" over-bore.
The 3.1L kit from Japan should be a
0.070" over-bore. So 0.020"
should be plenty safe. Good old cast iron blocks.
You will only
increase the compression ratio very slightly with a 0.020"
over-bore.
I calculated a 8.2:1 CR with my 0.050" over.
Pistons:
Factory cast are probably fine for anything the stock turbos
and fuel system
can dish out. Forged will cost more, be lighter,
dissipate heat better
(cooler crowns), and give you some insurance
against detonnation and extreme
temps if you go with larger turbos
and fuel system. For non-Mitsu pistons, be
sure the valve reliefs are
correct.
Rods: The 1st gen steel rods are
fine for anything up to maybe 500 HP
or so. Of course, expensive aftermarket
rods are better (lighter and
stronger).
Bearings: Go with the harder
Cleavite 77 or equivalent main and rod
bearings.
Oil pump (and water
pump): Good idea to replace while engine out.
Plus all belts etc., but you
know this.
Port-matching: Definitely a good idea.
Heads. You are
going to use the 2nd gen Mitsu lash adjusters right?
Minor items: new
knock sensor, belt tensioners, all gaskets.
Checks: Have him check the
rod bearings after the first start-up. A
pain because the oil pan (and
downpipe and frame member) needs to be
removed. But he can check them and the
cylinder walls for good
patterns. The rod bearings can be replaced.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "vect0r0" <
vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Thursday,
August 17, 2000 1:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: 1992 Stealth ENGINE REBUILD UPDATE
*PLEASE READ*
A while back 2 rod bearings were spun on my
92/RT/TT. The engine is
now pulled out, and at the shop. The guy
has selected an OEM style
piston (forgot the name of them) that are a slight
increase in
durability and slightly lighter than the stock piston. He
is
suggesting a 20 over engine bore, port matching the intake/exaust and
a
complete valve job (to turn the engine into a BRAND NEW
blue-printed engiene
so to speek).
What information regarding the piston selection, rings,
overboar,
port-matching, valve job, etc. should I be warned about before
I
allow
this guy to just arbitrarily order parts to replace the stock
ones?
Like: Piston Selection. Must there be a special TYPE or
STYLE
piston
or type of rings that are necessary
(gapless/etc)?
Overboar: Any damage/pre-mature wear/etc can be
caused?
Valve Job: Type of valves to replace with? 3 Angle Valve
Job?
Anything SPECIAL I should tell him about our heads before
getting
parts?
This guy has only re-built ONE stealth engine before
and Id like to
make sure Im not getting myself in trouble here..... He
quoted me a
price of: $1700 for 6 pistons, 6 rods, 6 rod bearings,
main
bearings, crank, all gaskets, oil pump (and maybe a few more
minor
things). Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks VERY much for
ANY insight on this as Im ready to get back on
the road after 2 months of
downtime
;)
John
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 14:31:29
-0700
From: vect0r0 <
vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1992 Stealth ENGINE REBUILD UPDATE *PLEASE READ*
Jeff Lucius
wrote:
> John,
>
> $1700 sounds like a great bargain,
depending on the new/used nature
> of the components. Is this parts
only?
These are BRAND NEW: Forged Aluminum (Silverlite Brand)
Pistons, Rods,
Bearings (main and rod), Oil Pump, Gaskets, Crank (he said
re-conditioned
LIKE NEW for like $100 with exchange), Rings, etc. Labor
is around:
$600 for the complete rebuild.
>
> Over-bore: I
safely (as far as I know) went with a 0.050" over-bore.
> The 3.1L kit
from Japan should be a 0.070" over-bore. So 0.020"
> should be plenty
safe. Good old cast iron blocks. You will only
> increase the compression
ratio very slightly with a 0.020" over-bore.
> I calculated a 8.2:1 CR
with my 0.050" over.
>
Is it possible to go 0.050" with the new set
of pistons/rings im
getting? Should I ask for 0.050 versus 0.020 for
any reason? Is it
still safe?
>
> Pistons: if you
go with larger turbos and fuel system
I have the extensive modification
list (15G's, 560cc's, pump, vpc *arc 2
maybe instead of the VPC soon*,
intake, exaust, IMP intake manifold,
etc.)
>
> Rods: The
1st gen steel rods are fine for anything up to maybe 500 HP
> or so. Of
course, expensive aftermarket rods are better (lighter and
>
stronger).
Id consider the rods, but think they are a bit out of my price
range at
this time.....
>
> Bearings: Go with the harder
Cleavite 77 or equivalent main and rod
> bearings.
>
He said
that he ONLY uses the Cleavite 77 bearings...... So that's
a
plus.
>
> Oil pump (and water pump): Good idea to
replace while engine out.
> Plus all belts etc., but you know
this.
>
I did a 60K tune-up while it was out.... So CHECK
;)
> Port-matching: Definitely a good idea.
>
He's
also gonna port/polish the heads/intake/exaust etc....
> Heads.
You are going to use the 2nd gen Mitsu lash adjusters
right?
>
Hrmm..... Im gonna make a call about cost. Are you
SURE they are OK for
a 1992 RT/TT? What's the advantage? Any
other modifications I need to
tell my mechanic about to fit these into the
mix?
>
> Minor items: new knock sensor, belt tensioners, all
gaskets.
>
Ill get the sensor too now that u mention
it.....
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
> Stealth
316
> -->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/You
have ANY idea what a 0.020 overboar, port/polish/intake/exaust
manifold
combonation will do for HP? Im not really into HP anymore but
would
like to have a figure in my mind..... Thanks SO much for your help
(my
mechanic thanks you too hehe)
John
(If i deleted too much message
and left others baffled about the subject
Im sorry :)
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 16:59:25
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S:
TALLMITSU
Has Tall Mitsu an email address yet or are they still relying
only on the
phone?
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 19:24:55
-0500
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <
kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Interior
lighting?
Could somebody tell me if the passenger side door lock and
power window
buttons are supposed to be lighted? They look just like the
drivers side
which are lighted but mine are not. I know it's a dumb question
but I
would have to drive 100 miles just to look at another 3000gt to
compare.
Thanks.
- --
Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 17:51:34
-0600
From: Manoj Prasad <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TALLMITSU
Here is Tall mitsu e-mail address
tallmits@mindspring.comRgds
Moe
Darc
wrote:
> Has Tall Mitsu an email address yet or are they still relying
only on the
> phone?
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 17:23:33
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Interior lighting?
> Could somebody tell me if the passenger
side door lock and
> power window buttons are supposed to be
lighted?
Nope, not lighted when they come from the factory!
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 19:50:19
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ANOTHER oil leak
Okay, just finished fixing an oil leak from the oil
pan...now I notice that
the tranny is ALSO leaking oil at the passenger side
drive shaft input.
What would cause this and is this fixable? Also, how
much for parts?
Chris
92 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 23:30:33
CDT
From: "Danny Erick" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Couple Questions
1) Which fuse does the underhood light run off
of. Reason being, every
other light on the car works ok as
far as I can tell but the little one
under the hood never
has, I replaced it and still no glow...
2) Does anyone know what the
"tapping" is that's coming from the engine
for mabey 5
minutes after it's been shut off?
3) What's the black piecce mounted all
the way on the left of the
firewall
directly behind the battery? (Been trying to identify all the
engine componets, still learning) =) And if anyone has a
clue what I'm
talking about, there is a flimsy silver
piece of "wire" connected to the
firewall above the rear
turbo and going to the rear of the intake
manifold. Any
clue? Thanks guys!
Dan Erick
92 Stealth R/T
TT
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#236
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