team3s
Wednesday, August 16
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
235
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 16 Aug 2000 09:35:39 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Radar Detector/Jammer Concealed Unit?
Also, anyone who
has a V1 will tell you how impressed they were when they
opened the
package. I know I was. The ordering sheet did not say that
I
would get a direct-power-wiring thing that allows you to wire it into,
for
example, the cigarette lighter or radio power wire so when you turn the
car
on the V1 is on and you don't need to do it yourself.
Also
included were two mounting clips (suction cups for the windshield and a
clip
for the visor) as well as some Velcro in case you wanted it mounted on
the
dash or ceiling I guess.
A great instruction manual that actually showed
how it will work (pictures
or radar not bending over a hill showing caution
when coming up and over a
hill). And a warranty that confirms the V1
will always be able to be
upgraded and will never be out of fashion.
Mine is the last version and
does not tell what radar band is being picked up
(a light glows for one
band, blinks for another, etc.). The new version
has a light for each of
the four bands (X, K, Ka, and Laser). I suggest
this for anyone.
The only thing it doesn't have that people might be
looking for is the
Emergency Warning System (or whatever they call it).
This is on some
detectors like the Bel or Cobra or something and it will
actually say or
display "Emergency" or "Ambulance" or something like
this. I think the V1
did not incorporate this because I read only about
3 cities in the US are
adopting this (LA, NYC, etc. or something) and it is
the old Beta-VHS battle
and since no single frequency or standard has been
adopted yet ... nobody
can create a system that covers all these.
Regardless, the V1 still picks
up those DOT highway signs which is good
enough for me.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com1995
Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: David B. Kopacz [
mailto:kopacz@vss.fsi.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:10 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Radar
Detector/Jammer Concealed Unit?
Matthew Hull [
mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu]
writes:
MH> I have a few
questions?
MH> Are Jammers illegal in all states or
any?
A true (active) jammer would probably be illegal everywhere since it
interferes with policemen doing their job. I'm not sure if the so
called
passive jammers are illegal since they don't actually do anything
except
make some marketing person rich. They might be illegal in the
fact that
someone is selling a product that doesn't do what it is advertised
to do.
;-)
MH> Is the Valentine1
a Jammer and detector/locator?
The Valentine 1 does not have a jammer
built in.
MH> Is the Valetine1 illegal in any
states?
All radar detectors are illegal in Virginia and Washington,
DC.
MH> With the Valetine1 unit, does it go on
the dash like all the others
MH> or are the sensors removeable so
they can be placed hidden and
MH> you could hide the main unit as
well? THANKS ALL!!
It mounts on the dash or on the windshield where
it can get a clear view
out the front and rear windows. They do have a
remote indicator option
that allows you to hide the flashing red lights from
passing policemen and
from tailgaters trying to use YOUR radar detector
because they're too cheap
to buy their
own.
David
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 16:34:08
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
vin-no
Hi,
I'm looking for some 99 VR-4 parts, but since the 99
never have been sold
here in Europe it's hard to find part numbers. Can
someone please provide me
with the vin number from a US spec 1999 VR-4?? It
would help alot!
Thanks,
Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu (I think it's down right
now...)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:49:32
-0400
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Newbie problems with a 94 R/T TT?
Hi all,
I had just purchased a
94 Dodge Stealth R/T TT last month and I am
unfortunately starting to create
a 'fix it' list.
I had purchased the car from a dealer that I know
very well so I feel that I
got a really good deal on it. I spent 12k on
it and at the time only needed
the upper molding strip replaced on the front
windshield, a fog light, and a
couple of dents that needed popped out, all of
which I could take care of
myself.
Now the bad news, I discovered
quiet quickly that the 1-2 gearshift would
grind a little if I ran the RPM up
in first and tried to make the shift
quickly into 2nd. Almost seems
like the synchronizer is too tight? Second
will also grind if I would
try and down shift from 3rd at higher relative
speeds.
Another problem
I am having is that when I picked up the vehicle I found out
that someone put
87-octane in it. It was hesitating and the engine was
shutting off
under hard acceleration with high boost pressures. I put
some
104-octane boost in for the time being and the problem seemed to go
away
somewhat. However, after I started using 92-octane fuel and after
a week or
so of running the vehicle the problem came back and seems more
regular.
The vehicle also uses coolant and I have not been able to
determine from
what location is it coming from. The 'idiot' light for
the low coolant
level didn't come on the first time and the engine
overheated. I stopped
immediately and put some water in it and it
seemed that it didn't cause
permanent damage? On occasion I also can
hear a tapping that I almost
suspect is a lifter but I can not say for
certain?
So adding to the above problems with some minor stuff like
needing a CD
holder for the CD player, needing to replace the spare tire
including the
jack and the power mirrors need fixing, I am starting to think
I should
resell it? The problem is I like the car and would definitely
try and get
another R/T TT, preferably a nice red or black one again, but how
easy will
that be? My dealer friend said when I bought it that he can
resell the car
tomorrow for around 15k, any opinions?
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:21:56
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Newbie problems with a 94 R/T TT?
>Now the bad news, I
discovered quiet quickly that the 1-2 gearshift would
>grind a little if I
ran the RPM up in first and tried to make the shift
>quickly into
2nd. Almost seems like the synchronizer is too tight?
Second
>will also grind if I would try and down shift from 3rd at higher
relative
>speeds.
No doubt about it -- you have the famous Getrag
2nd gear synchro problem.
It happens to all of us sooner or later, usually
around 60K mileage. This
will cost you $3,000 to get fixed at the dealer. No,
you cannot get the
synchro fixed -- it requires a complete tranny
replacement. And no, you
can't continue driving it that way: one day, the
entire transmission will
lock up and you will come to a screaming halt with
all four wheels locked.
Kinda dangerous.
>
>The vehicle also
uses coolant and I have not been able to determine from
>what location is
it coming from.
If it is pooling up under the engine, and you can't
determine the source of
the leak, it may be the water pump. This will cost
another $700-800,
because you will have to replace the timing belt (because
coolant ruins
timing belts). Have the dealer do a pressure test. This will
identify the
source of the leak. Pray that you do not have a blown head
gasket.
If you can't find evidence that the timing belt was changed at
60K, you
need to do that anyway.
>permanent damage? On
occasion I also can hear a tapping that I almost
>suspect is a lifter but
I can not say for certain?
The infamous tapping Mitsu lifters. Not a
problem yet.
>
My dealer friend said when I bought it that he can
resell the car
>tomorrow for around 15k, any opinions?
Take it
back and demand he fix the transmission, at least.
He knew damn good and
well that the tranny was bad when he sold it.
That's why you only paid $12K.
You shoulda paid $15-17
If he won't fix it, get your money back from your
"friend."
With friends like this, you don't need enemies.
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 10:20:27
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Newbie problems with a 94 R/T TT?
Get your money back and let
him sell it for $15k. :) Unless you bought a
warranty with the car,
you're going to be dumping some money into the
trannie and possibly the
engine if you really are losing coolant. How many
miles on the
car? The syncros on our cars are known for their failure
rates.
That car should run fine on 92 octane if it is stock. We can't even
get
92 octane in Denver. That tapping sound is most likely the lifter
also.
These cars are notorious for their tick. I did get the dealer to
replace my
lifters on my last '92 RT but the ticking was very loud and even
the
mechanic agreed that there was something wrong with it being that
loud.
I bought my '92 RT/TT a few months ago for $13k. Yes, a
premium price, but
ask Jeff Lucius, the car in in MINT condition. Never
been in the snow or
rain for that matter. Not a single ding (until
someone keyed it a month or
so back). 62k miles on it. Loaded
with factory alarm and radar detector.
$13k is a premium price for that car,
but in my mind, I have the peace of
knowing that it'll last me a looong
time.
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 16, 2000 9:49 AM
Subject: Team3S: Newbie problems with a 94
R/T TT?
> Hi all,
>
> I had just purchased a 94 Dodge
Stealth R/T TT last month and I am
> unfortunately starting to create a
'fix it' list.
>
> I had purchased the car from a dealer that I know
very well so I feel that
I
> got a really good deal on it. I
spent 12k on it and at the time only
needed
> the upper molding strip
replaced on the front windshield, a fog light, and
a
> couple of dents
that needed popped out, all of which I could take care of
>
myself.
>
> Now the bad news, I discovered quiet quickly that the
1-2 gearshift would
> grind a little if I ran the RPM up in first and
tried to make the shift
> quickly into 2nd. Almost seems like the
synchronizer is too tight?
Second
> will also grind if I would try and
down shift from 3rd at higher relative
> speeds.
>
> Another
problem I am having is that when I picked up the vehicle I found
out
>
that someone put 87-octane in it. It was hesitating and the engine
was
> shutting off under hard acceleration with high boost
pressures. I put
some
> 104-octane boost in for the time being
and the problem seemed to go away
> somewhat. However, after I
started using 92-octane fuel and after a week
or
> so of running the
vehicle the problem came back and seems more regular.
>
> The
vehicle also uses coolant and I have not been able to determine from
>
what location is it coming from. The 'idiot' light for the low
coolant
> level didn't come on the first time and the engine
overheated. I stopped
> immediately and put some water in it and it
seemed that it didn't cause
> permanent damage? On occasion I also
can hear a tapping that I almost
> suspect is a lifter but I can not say
for certain?
>
> So adding to the above problems with some minor
stuff like needing a CD
> holder for the CD player, needing to replace the
spare tire including the
> jack and the power mirrors need fixing, I am
starting to think I should
> resell it? The problem is I like the
car and would definitely try and get
> another R/T TT, preferably a nice
red or black one again, but how easy
will
> that be? My dealer
friend said when I bought it that he can resell the
car
> tomorrow for
around 15k, any opinions?
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 09:37:03
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Newbie problems with a 94 R/T TT?
**New** 1st and 2nd gear
synchros are available from Kormex (they
make them; $125???). The AWD
transaxle **is** rebuildable at many
qualified shops. It is not particularly
difficult or expensive to
remove the transaxle yourself (see the Garage page
at my web site).
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 16, 2000 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie problems with
a 94 R/T TT?
....
No doubt about it -- you have the famous Getrag
2nd gear synchro
problem. It happens to all of us sooner or later, usually
around 60K
mileage. This will cost you $3,000 to get fixed at the dealer.
No,
you cannot get the synchro fixed -- it requires a complete
tranny
replacement.
....
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:44:04
-0700
From: "Bbizo" <
bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Newbie problems with a 94 R/T TT?
#1) Jeff is, as usual, correct.
The 1-2 syncros are available from Kormex
(800)429-5464. These trannies are
fairly easy to work on, so just about any
transmission shop can do them if
you provide the parts. The world will not
end if you continue to drive with a
weak 1-2 syncro. There have been
problems with people having trouble with 5th
and reverse occassionally
breaking parts, but not 1-4.
#2) The ECU may
need more time to adjust to the changes in fuel quality.
Worst case, you may
have to reset the ECU.
#3) The coolant leak you can't see is almost
always the water pump. The seal
vent port for the pump bearing comes out the
back of the pump under the
intake plenum. Its almost impossible to
troubleshoot because you just can't
see it. I don't know how many miles are
on your car, but timing belt change
and water pump R&R are basicly the
same operation because the water pump
acts as an idler for the timing belt.
Both should probably be done at the
same time. Get the aftermarket pump from
Carparts.com.
#4) The mirrors operate off the same fuse as the cigarette
lighter near your
elbow. That would be the one that a penny falls into about
every six months
and tkes the fuse out. 90% chance that is your
problem.
In general, what you have is a R/T TT that needs the work
required by a R/T
TT that has 80K miles on it (I don't know how many it
really has, but I'll
bet I'm close). We're talking about $1000 if you pay a
good mechanic to do
it. When this work is done and done right, you'll have a
really nice car n
your hands. By the way, your antenna is going to go out
next.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 11:46:05
-0700
From: "Bbizo" <
bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Newbie problems with a 94 R/T TT?
#1) Jeff is, as usual, correct.
The 1-2 syncros are available from Kormex
(800)429-5464. These trannies are
fairly easy to work on, so just about any
transmission shop can do them if
you provide the parts. The world will not
end if you continue to drive with a
weak 1-2 syncro. There have been
problems with people having trouble with 5th
and reverse occassionally
breaking parts, but not 1-4.
#2) The ECU may
need more time to adjust to the changes in fuel quality.
Worst case, you may
have to reset the ECU.
#3) The coolant leak you can't see is almost
always the water pump. The seal
vent port for the pump bearing comes out the
back of the pump under the
intake plenum. Its almost impossible to
troubleshoot because you just can't
see it. I don't know how many miles are
on your car, but timing belt change
and water pump R&R are basicly the
same operation because the water pump
acts as an idler for the timing belt.
Both should probably be done at the
same time. Get the aftermarket pump from
Carparts.com.
#4) The mirrors operate off the same fuse as the cigarette
lighter near your
elbow. That would be the one that a penny falls into about
every six months
and tkes the fuse out. 90% chance that is your
problem.
In general, what you have is a R/T TT that needs the work
required by a R/T
TT that has 80K miles on it (I don't know how many it
really has, but I'll
bet I'm close). We're talking about $1000 if you pay a
good mechanic to do
it. When this work is done and done right, you'll have a
really nice car n
your hands. By the way, your antenna is going to go out
next.
Bob Bissonette
I forgot to sign last time, don't want that
spanking again !!
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 15:46:26
-0400
From: "Lorne Silkes" <
vr4@cwia.com>
Subject: Team3S: New England
Dragway tonight
I just realized I forgot to post this earlier than right
now.
I'll be up at NED tonight for street night. Need to get another
best
time before the next phase of mods. Right now
it 13.26 with a K&N, Blitz
DSBC, and Borla exhaust.
Stop by and say high if you're there.
Green
VR4 plate:
VR4
Lorne
__________Circle.com______________________
Lorne
Silkes
Circle.com- Boston
5th Floor
420 Boylston Street
Boston, MA
02116
E)
lorne.silkes@circle.comV)
617.585.3149
F) 617.585.3001
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 17:19:48
EDT
From:
SKCrusader@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
1G DSM BOV - How does it fit?
Would someone please tell me what a BOV
is?? What is its function, etc? I
have been trying to find it on
your website, but to no avail.
Scott
POS 89 Grand Prix
Gonna
be driving something TT in a year.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 14:45:50
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Safe boost limit for stock injectors...
Okay, I've decided that I might
not want to go ALL OUT on my car because I
don't want my 150k mile tranny to
blow up. I've spent way too much just
repairing the car lately and I
want it to stay in one piece at least till I
can save up enough money for
another car. Anyways, here's my situation:
I bought and installed
GT-PRO 355 turbos when I replaced my engine because
of a spun rod
bearing. I swapped in a 4-bolt main engine into my 92 R/T TT.
I also
got an AFC and 720 injectors. I didn't install the 720s yet.
My
plan was to *TRY* to tune the 720s with the AFC but due to my
reliability
problems, I'd rather not pursue that venture anymore. I'll
just save the
money that I was going to spend on all the necessary gauges and
top of the
line EBC and sell my 720s. The car feels pretty damn quick
even at the
stock boost pressure right now with my current mods.
So
here's my question. How much boost can the stock injectors safely
handle
for the 355 turbos (or 15G turbos since they are about the
same)? 10psi?
12psi? At what point does it start to become
dangerous? I don't want to
buy a bunch of extra gauges to monitor this,
but I would think the stock
injectors can handle more than the stock boost,
right?
Thanks a bunch guys,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T TT (gone under the
knife WAY too many times this summer)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 17:36:01
-0500
From: Marc Jaffe <
marc@marcjaffe.com>
Subject: Team3S:
FM Reception
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader
does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be
legible.
- --MS_Mac_OE_3049292161_23384_MIME_Part
Content-type:
text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding:
7bit
Howdy'
I have a FM reception Question...
I started having
problems with the stock radio in my VR4 and I replaced it
with a Kenwood Z919
Mp3 Receiver....All is great except the FM reception...
It is sporadic
(mostly bad)and is really pissing me off
I have...
1)replaced the
mast in the power antenna
2)check to make sure it is grounded
3)tried a
new cable and solid antenna
4)tweaked it repeatedly
the reciever unit
itself is not attached directly to the battery, i am using
the same power
connections as before...
Any ideas?
Thanx
Marc
Marc
Jaffe
JaffeMedia
Web Site Design, Graphics & Photography
www.marcjaffe.commarc@marcjaffe.com -
--MS_Mac_OE_3049292161_23384_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding:
quoted-printable
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>FM
Reception</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<TT>Howdy'<BR>
<BR>
I
have a FM reception Question...<BR>
I started having problems with the
stock radio in my VR4 and I replaced it =
with a Kenwood Z919 Mp3
Receiver....All is great except the FM reception...<=
BR>
It is
sporadic (mostly bad)and is really pissing me off<BR>
<BR>
I
have...<BR>
<BR>
1)replaced the mast in the power
antenna<BR>
2)check to make sure it is grounded<BR>
3)tried a
new cable and solid antenna<BR>
4)tweaked it
repeatedly<BR>
<BR>
the reciever unit itself is not attached
directly to the battery, i am usin=
g the same power connections as
before...<BR>
Any
ideas?<BR>
Thanx<BR>
Marc<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Marc
Jaffe<BR>
JaffeMedia<BR>
Web Site Design, Graphics &
Photography<BR>
www.marcjaffe.com<BR>
<FONT
COLOR=3D"#0000FF"><U>
marc@marcjaffe.com</U></FONT></TT>
</BODY>
</HTML>
-
--MS_Mac_OE_3049292161_23384_MIME_Part--
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 14:49:56
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Newbie problems with a 94 R/T TT?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Bbizo" <
bbizo@telisphere.com>
>
your hands. By the way, your antenna is going to go out
next.
>
>
LOL, that was the first thing to go wrong with my
car when I got it. Still
haven't fixed the damn thing and its been over
3 years.
Chris
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 16:39:16
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Safe boost limit for stock injectors...
> So here's my
question. How much boost can the stock injectors
> safely handle for
the 355 turbos (or 15G turbos since they are
> about the same)?
10psi? 12psi? At what point does it start
> to become
dangerous? I don't want to buy a bunch of extra
> gauges to monitor
this, but I would think the stock
> injectors can handle more than the
stock boost, right?
I ran my 15G's with the stock injectors and no
additional fuel control at 14
psi and was able to run it to redline and still
stay rich enough. I have
water injection, too, so that might have
helped keep things okay. Anything
above 14 psi resulted in fuel cut
since the turbos are flowing a lot more
air at 14 psi near redline than stock
turbos do near redline. Watch the a/f
ratio and as long as you are
around .92v or higher you should be okay. At
14 psi I'm sure the
injectors are as wide-open as the ECU will allow, so I'd
say that's on the
ragged edge.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 16:47:07
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FM Reception
> I started having problems with the stock
radio in my VR4 and
> I replaced it with a Kenwood Z919 Mp3
Receiver....All is
> great except the FM reception... It is sporadic
(mostly
> bad)and is really pissing me off
If the Z919 supports
diversity antennas, make sure both of the factory
antennas are
connected. Other than that, good luck. I've never been able
to
get satisfactory FM reception from any of my Mitsubishi vehicles
without
using the factory diversity antennae setup. I'm a Sony guy
myself, so I
don't know if the Kenwood receivers support it or not.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 21:41:33
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo/Boost Hiss
Hello everyone!
I've been hearing a hiss for
sometime now, I think since a dealership
(that I now disown) replaced my
tranny, it has been occurring.
Essentially, it is only present when the boost
gauge (stock) raises
above zero, and is directly proportional to boost in
amplitude. I had a
couple of places look at it, and one even said he
'pressurized the
system' and found no leaks. Any
ideas?
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
New Getrag, RPS
Turbo Clutch
Snake Eyes, K&N, plates
007KEN
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 21:49:05
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
'Popping' exhaust
Hello! =)
Recently, I have developed a popping
sound in my exhaust when the engine
is decelerating. In reality, I
don't mind, it makes the car sound real
mean. But, I have concerns it
may be serious - some people have told me
that the sound is fuel igniting in
the exhaust pipe. There really is no
ties to anything else, including
my previous post regarding turbo hiss.
It is most noticeable coming out
of first gear, especially if I
accelerate slow up to mid/high rpm then push
in the clutch. I can
always hear it when I shift, or even just revving
in neutral, as soon as
I let off the petal and it is falling back towards
idle.
Any and all help appreciated!
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
'91
Pearl White RT/TT
New Getrag, RPS Turbo Clutch
Snake Eyes, K&N, plates
007KEN
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 21:54:33
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Front wheel clunk
Hello =)
I have very recently started hearing a
clunk near my front left wheel.
It is very infrequent, doesn't necessarily
need hard braking, but is
common when braking or turning. It seems as
if it 'sets' in one
position, then when I accelerate in the opposite
direction, it clunks
again, like it was going back into place...
Example: I will hear a
clunk while turning, and it will stay that way
until I first hit the
brakes. Or, I will hear it clunk when almost at a
stop, then again when
I let off the brake to accelerate. One tech told
me this is ball joints
- - any thoughts? What does it take to
repair? I'm an engine and tranny
guy, not chassis
yet!
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
New Getrag, RPS
Turbo Clutch
Snake Eyes, K&N, plates
007KEN
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 21:49:05
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
'Popping' exhaust
Hello! =)
Recently, I have developed a popping
sound in my exhaust when the engine
is decelerating. In reality, I
don't mind, it makes the car sound real
mean. But, I have concerns it
may be serious - some people have told me
that the sound is fuel igniting in
the exhaust pipe. There really is no
ties to anything else, including
my previous post regarding turbo hiss.
It is most noticeable coming out
of first gear, especially if I
accelerate slow up to mid/high rpm then push
in the clutch. I can
always hear it when I shift, or even just revving
in neutral, as soon as
I let off the petal and it is falling back towards
idle.
Any and all help appreciated!
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
'91
Pearl White RT/TT
New Getrag, RPS Turbo Clutch
Snake Eyes, K&N, plates
007KEN
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 07:20:54
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Newbie problems with a 94 R/T TT?
I have the same tapping lifters on my
92 TT. Are you saying this is
mostly a benign problem. It does seem to be
common. How frequent does
lock up ultimately occur. Is there an easy cure. I
had a mechanic tell
me to go back to petroleum based oil, and that this would
help solve the
problem. Is this true?
Rich
92TT (first stage
mods)
Merritt wrote:
>
> >Now the bad news, I discovered
quiet quickly that the 1-2 gearshift would
> >grind a little if I ran
the RPM up in first and tried to make the shift
> >quickly into
2nd. Almost seems like the synchronizer is too tight? Second
>
>will also grind if I would try and down shift from 3rd at higher
relative
> >speeds.
>
> No doubt about it -- you have the
famous Getrag 2nd gear synchro problem.
> It happens to all of us sooner
or later, usually around 60K mileage. This
> will cost you $3,000 to get
fixed at the dealer. No, you cannot get the
> synchro fixed -- it requires
a complete tranny replacement. And no, you
> can't continue driving it
that way: one day, the entire transmission will
> lock up and you will
come to a screaming halt with all four wheels locked.
> Kinda
dangerous.
>
> >
> >The vehicle also uses coolant and I
have not been able to determine from
> >what location is it coming
from.
>
> If it is pooling up under the engine, and you can't
determine the source of
> the leak, it may be the water pump. This will
cost another $700-800,
> because you will have to replace the timing belt
(because coolant ruins
> timing belts). Have the dealer do a pressure
test. This will identify the
> source of the leak. Pray that you do not
have a blown head gasket.
>
> If you can't find evidence that the
timing belt was changed at 60K, you
> need to do that anyway.
>
> >permanent damage? On occasion I also can hear a tapping that
I almost
> >suspect is a lifter but I can not say for certain?
>
> The infamous tapping Mitsu lifters. Not a problem yet.
>
>
> My dealer friend said when I bought it that he can resell the
car
> >tomorrow for around 15k, any opinions?
>
> Take it
back and demand he fix the transmission, at least.
> He knew damn good and
well that the tranny was bad when he sold it.
> That's why you only paid
$12K. You shoulda paid $15-17
> If he won't fix it, get your money back
from your "friend."
> With friends like this, you don't need
enemies.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
> >
>
>*** Info:
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***
> >
>
> *** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 02:21:41
GMT
From: "Ryan Meador" <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OVERBOOST
History:
- -Bought a '93 VR4 about 4 months
ago.
- -It is stock (as far as I know) with K&N FP.
- -2 weeks ago I
gutted the cats and added a 3" Downpipe
- -Those are the only "known"
mods.
Issue:
- -I just installed a brand new Autometer mechanical boost
gauge because I
have read many posts saying that the stock is in
accurate.
- -I was hoping to see that I was pumping 7-8 real pounds of boost
so I could
pump it up a little higher.
Here were my readings:
Idle: 17
pounds vaccume
1st gear: 15 pounds boost
2nd gear: 17 pounds boost
3rd
gear: 20-21 pounds boost!!! Until about 5000 rpm- it began to drop
4th
???
5th ???
Questions for you fine folks:
*WTF? (The gauge appears
to be working perfectly!?)
*How can I be boosting these pressures without
hitting fuel cut or the
engine timing retarding?
*Does the engine light
come on when the knock sensors detect pinging?
*I noticed that the wastegates
had adjustments on the rods out of the
accuators- could they be "unscrewed to
the max? I just don't get it.
*What is the connector that is electrical taped
to a hose in the
following picture:
http://www.geocities.com/captainrye/VR4.html*Will
I get accurate readings from the location that I hooked up the
gauge?
(Picture also at the avove site)
Sorry for the long post--- Any help would be
appreciated...
Ryan
'93 VR4 Pumping 21 pounds of Umph for 4 months and
never knowing
it.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 21:34:02
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 'Popping' exhaust
> Recently, I have developed a popping
sound in my
> exhaust when the engine is decelerating. In
>
reality, I don't mind, it makes the car sound
> real mean. But, I
have concerns it may be serious
> - some people have told me that the
sound is fuel
> igniting in the exhaust pipe. There really is
no
> ties to anything else, including my previous post
> regarding
turbo hiss.
I would say that it is directly related to the leaking air
hiss. If you are
losing air while accelerating, the ECU is dumping in
more fuel than is
needed and running the car rich (and the stock ECU runs
pretty rich to begin
with when everything is fully functional). The
popping noise is the excess
fuel vapors igniting in the exhaust manifold,
turbo, precats, or downpipe.
It typically isn't enough of an issue to cause
problems, but you should
investigate why the car is running
extra-rich.
If I turn up my ARC-2 fuel controller too high on the
low-end, I can exactly
duplicate what you are seeing.
Check ALL
connections on all the piping on the turbos, including the ring
gasket in the
output tube from the rear turbo. Make sure there is grease on
that
ring, or it won't seal correctly. If you hear it when under boost,
it
is likely somewhere after the compressor side of the turbos (between
the
turbos and the throttle body). Could also possibly be a bad
compressor
bypass valve (BOV), but that would be low on my list of
possibilities.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 21:44:05
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OVERBOOST
> Here were my readings:
> Idle: 17 pounds
vaccume
> 1st gear: 15 pounds boost
> 2nd gear: 17 pounds
boost
> 3rd gear: 20-21 pounds boost!!! Until
about
> 5000
rpm- it began to drop
> Questions for you fine folks:
> *WTF?
(The gauge appears to be working perfectly!?)
Gauge appears to be working
okay. If it measures both vacuum and boost, you
should* be on a good
signal line, which you are. You could try tapping into
the line on the
other side of the throttle body (front side) that leads to
the compressor
bypass valve as I know for sure that one is good to measure
from.
>
*How can I be boosting these pressures
> without hitting fuel cut or
the
> engine timing retarding?
If it has been doing this all along,
how do you know you aren't getting
timing retard? I bet it goes like a
bat outta hell around 3000-4000 RPM and
then drops off a lot as boost falls
when the turbos run outta juice.
> *Does the engine light come on when
the knock sensors detect pinging?
No, it does not.
> *I noticed
that the wastegates had adjustments
> on the rods out of the accuators-
could they
> be "unscrewed to the max? I just don't get it.
I don't
think you can really adjust them, however if it is possible then the
previous
owner could've made the rod length shorter, making the wastegates
open
less.
> *What is the connector that is electrical taped
> to a
hose in the following picture:
>
http://www.geocities.com/captainrye/VR4.htmlNo
idea, my car doesn't have it.
> *Will I get accurate readings from the
location
> that I hooked up the gauge? (Picture also at the
> avove
site)
Should be at least fairly accurate. There isn't a line on the
throttle body
that goes above actual boost pressure.
> '93 VR4
Pumping 21 pounds of Umph for 4 months
> and never knowing
it.
Wouldn't recommend continuing doing that until you figure out why the
boost
is uncontrolled.
Examine the following:
Hose coming off
the back side of the Y-pipe elbow, should be connected to
"H" tee-connector
behind/below the throttle body, one hose from "H" should
go to rear wastegate
actuator, another hose from "H" should go to front
turbo wastegate actuator,
last hose on "H" should go up to the boost control
solenoid on the firewall,
hose coming out of solenoid on firewall should
lead to somewhere near rear
turbo.
If that is all connected properly, then unplug the electrical
connector from
the boost control solenoid. You should now see something
on the order of
6-8 psi of boost. Plugging in the connector should
result in slightly
higher boost.
Start with that and see what you
find.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#235
*********************