team3s
Monday, August 14
2000
Volume 01 : Number
233
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 13 Aug 2000 22:15:56 EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Clattering Clutch
I have the same thing on my 91 VR4 when the car is
warm. I believe the
clattering comes from the transmission. I had a
new clutch installed because
of this clattering noise, a squeeking throwout
bearing, and a bind in the
clutch pedal motion. The new clutch installation
solved the pedal motion
problem, but the clattering is still there (and the
new throwout bearing
squeeks worse than the old one did). I posted about it
awhile back, and got a
response directing me to read an online article about
getrag transmissions.
Apparently, they are known to have some kind of
clattering noise in many
different vehicles.
here is the
article:
http://www.roadkill.com/~davet/moto/trans.articles.htmlPaul
Klusman
<< > Over time, I have noticed a clattering
associated with the clutch pedal
> out after starting my
91-VR4. If the clutch pedal is pushed in, the
> clattering
stops. Pedal travel seems normal and I haven't noticed any
>
slippage when changing gears, even in hard launches. No fluid
leaks
> either. Is the throwout bearing the likely source of
the noise? Is my
> clutch about to completely
fail?
> >>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 00:15:31
EDT
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Methanol
What harm would there be in using a 10 % mix of methanol and 93
octane pump
gas. As I understand it there will be a 5 point increase in
octane.
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
Murray
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 23:52:10
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Methanol
> What harm would there be in using a 10 % mix
of
> methanol and 93 octane pump gas. As I understand
> it there
will be a 5 point increase in octane.
Here's the correct
formula:
Formula #4 - Methanol or
Ethanol:
R+M/2.........101
Cost...........$0.60 - $1.75/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium:
10%...........94.3 Octane
(Methanol)
10%...........94.7 Octane (Ethanol)
20%...........Not
Recommended
Notes: Methanol is wood alcohol. Ethanol is grain alcohol
and found in
Gasohol in 10% ratios. Both alcohols are mildly corrosive and
will eat gas
tank linings, rubber and aluminum if used in excessive ratios.
Main
ingredient in "Gas Dryers", combine with water.
.....so,
overall a little boost of octane for not much money. A lot of
fuels
available today already contain 10% ethanol in some areas (my home
town of
Minneapolis, for one) - so be careful to make sure the fuel you are
adding
ethanol to doesn't already contain it since you don't want to go
over
10%. Oh, and I'm not sure you can run the pure stuff in your 3/S
as it
might require some sort of altered fuel curve or who knows what.
Methanol
in high concentrations also "eats" zinc and magnesium - not sure if
our cars
have parts made of either metal in the fuel system or not.
;-)
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 01:00:23
-0400 (EDT)
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S:
Transmission noise in neutral and while driving
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stHello
Guys,
My brothers 94 TT Stealth has a problem once again with the
transmission.
The weird thing is that it was changed 15,000 miles ago under
Dodge
Powertrain Warranty with a new one. Now it is out of warranty and
here
are the symptoms. The car makes a strange noise coming from
the
transmission while the engine is started and regardless whether it is
in
neutral, in gear, with the clutch depressed or not, etc It sounds as
if
something is broken inside the transmission bay and is now bouncing
around
in there. He's not driving it anymore due to fear that it will
lock up on
him. One other thing: REVERSE does not work anymore, or at
least I'm not
willing to put it in reverse due to a grinding noise at any
attempt which
I never heard before.
It came all of a sudden. My
brother only realized it after a = hour drive
when he pulled on residential
streets. One weird thing that happened to
him the day before this
happened was that the car jumped out of 5 th gear
on the highway when he
accelerated or let go of the accelerator. It only
happened once.
The day of the mishap, his car jumped out of 2 nd gear at
high rpm before he
got a chance to switch into 3 rd. He tried to
duplicate both problems
with no success.
What do you guys think? We could take the
car back to the same Dodge
dealer that did the original transmission
replacement in the hopes that
they will cover this too. However, this
seems unlikely. I noticed in the
past some insurance companies you guys
were talking about giving
warranties for our TTs. Anybody know of any
such companies I can call up,
sign up with them, and then tell them a week
later about my problem.
Would this work with Dodge or Mitsu. How much
are these powertrain
warranties. A few years ago I paid $1200 for a 93
Base Stealth powertain
for 36 mo/ 36000 miles. I hope it's not more for
the 94 TT.
I won't report the problem to the dealer just yet, so
that I can get some
feedback from you guys on what you think.
Thanks for any help, and sorry for the long post.
Mike
94
Pearl Yellow TT (66,000 miles)
93 Red Base Stealth
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 07:33:06
-0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Possible oil leak in front crank seal...
Was it a new block, or was it
rebuilt?
If rebuilt, did they "line bore the mains"?
If so, they
might have set the crank down into the
block just a HAIR.
Reason: If you hone out a
CYLINDER it can get pushed into the block a
little
(compared to before, we are talking thousandths of
an inch).
The front and rear crankshaft seals are
LOCATED (centered) by the front
cover/oil pump
aluminum housing on the front, and they will center
the
seal on the OLD, PROPER position not the NEW,
SLIGHTLY DEEPER in block
(upward as you look at
it) position of the crank centerline. This makes
the seal
have a SLIGHT gap or relative looseness on that side,
and can
lead to a leak.
I know because it happened to me on my 94
rebuild.
They decked the block .005" and line honed the mains.
The pistons
ended up sticking out a bit too much (they
should stick out a hair, but due
to block decking they stuck out two hairs and
gasket clearance left over was
marginal for not having
pistons slam into heads so they paid to have the
rods
offset bushed). Put engine in, and the engine had OIL
LEAKS
front and rear due to this. This also explained why
the
pistons stuck out more than they expected. The machine shop had
to
pay for R&R engine, bush rods BACK to proper size,
and remachine
bores for the pistons I had. I paid for
new block because hard to say,
they say it needed the
decking and etc so we met halfway.
I would
recommend telling machine shops NOT to
line bore or deck block UNLESS IT IS A
_PROBLEM_
(NOT "we just do it on all of them when we rebuild")
and then
ONLY ABSOLUTE MINIMUM amount.
Jack Tertadian
Chris Maxwell
wrote:
> I replaced engine less than 3000 miles ago
> past 2000
miles oil leak coming from front
> oil pan around crank pulley area.
I took oil
> pan off today to apply better bead of sealant. After
4
> hours of agony, I got pan off, was plenty
> sealant. there
was oil higher
> up than where oil pan meets crank seal housing.
>
oil pan wasn't leaking; I suspect
> front crank seal is. The crank
seals only 3000 miles used.
> Chris 92 R/T TT (4 bolt main, 355
turbos, but still hasn't seen above 7psi
> yet...)
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 09:22:30
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: VG2 Radar protection
Jason,
This will get
confusing so don't get bogged down with all the words (an
excerpt from the
Valentine 1 web page (
www.valentine1.com<
http://www.valentine1.com> ) is near the
bottom for those of you looking
for the correct answer quickly). Note
that if the radar detector is not on
then nobody can detect it (and you can
not detect anything). This is what
the Virginia cops want (us to not
detect them not them not being able to
detect us). [My apologies to any
Virginia cops here or others in the list
... now you know what car to look
for on your roads. :-)]
Not many cops can detect a radar
detector visually. Many things can be
mounted to visors and windshields
(cell phones, G-Tech Pro, compass, note
pad, cup holder, CD holder, etc.)
that assuming this is a radar detector is
quite a bad idea. Also, if
you are going 60 mph and they are sitting still
then they only have a small
window of time to look, recognize, and detect
what it is (60 mph is 88 feet
per second and if you can see something from
50 feet away to 10 feet away
then they have about a half second to do this).
Whew. It's like seeing
a plane fly overhead, detect, recognize, and then
decide if you should shoot
it down based on its silhouette. Not a job I
would like to have.
Imagine cops trying to memorize all the silhouettes of
all the detectors on
the market. Note that this is the method not employed
(however if they
are behind you and see the lights blinking on it then they
will certainly
give you a ticket)
Getting back to your question ... the cops
use VG2 to detect radar
detectors. Therefore, a radar detector with VG2
proof (also called
"stealth" mode) is the cloaking or "hiding" device that
makes them appear
hidden, turned off, non-existent to cops. This means
that you have a radar
detector since you can detect radar. (Not that
the V1 is called a radar
locator since it not only detects it but it tells
you where it is coming
from as well and perhaps they should not use radar
since laser is in there
too but that is not my decision.)
However, the cops to have what they call a radar detector-detector.
This
detects who has a radar detector. Don't let this part confuse you
either.
The VG2 is sort of a radar detector-detector detector. (Having
fun yet?)
It doesn't really detect where the radar detector-detectors are it
merely
masks itself to make it difficult for anyone who wants to find if you
have
one. Luckily, you have the V1 which is the best in the world at
all of this
gadgetry (that's why it is nearly $400 too).
Here
is an excerpt from the V1 website FAQ (
www.valentine1.com<
http://www.valentine1.com> ) which gives
better answers than I can:
Does Valentine One have "stealth?" Is this
the same as
being VG2 proof?
Yes and yes. The real question is, Can
the detector be
detected by an instrument called VG2, which is a detector of
radar
detectors. Good radar detectors, like good AM/FM radios,
are
super-heterodyne receivers, and they all share a common trait. They
receive,
but they also transmit a signal; it's called "local oscillator
emissions."
This transmitted signal can be found by another radio if it's
tuned to the
right frequency. And VG2 is a merely a radio tuned to the right
frequency
range for most detectors.
A little history: Escort was the first
X-K super-heterodyne
detector. Jim Jaeger and I invented it, working out of
his basement in the
mid-seventies. Since then, other detector makers have
taken the easy way and
copied Escort's frequency scheme, which means they
have the same L-O
frequency. So VG2 knows right where to look.
The one
detector that's apart from the pack is V1. I didn't
copy myself. So VG2
misses Valentine One. But even if it were tuned to the
right spot, we'd still
be hard to find because we use sophisticated
filtering. In our tests,
Valentine One is better than all others for
VG2-proofing. Our best
competitors are pretty good, maybe good enough. Our
worst competitors are
clueless; Car and Driver, in its last test, detected
one of them 3/4 of a
mile away.
Something is in the far reaches of my brain
remembering something about
some people complaining about their Amendment
rights to radio and such.
Since a radar detector simply detects it is really
just a radio tuned to a
specific frequency that beeps when something is on
that channel. However,
someone in VA has gotten around that since these
are no illegal there. The
trick I do ... I mean ... what I have heard
to do is to keep it on until it
detects something (which is usually about a
mile away) and then unplug it.
This way you know something is out there and
can slow down for two miles.
After you successfully pass the cop you can plug
it in again. This worked
for the stretch of I-81 from WV to TN this
summer. It also works since
there are four dozen cars in front and
behind within that mile so picking
out which car it is a few hundred feet
away is nearly impossible.
Hope this helps.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com1995
Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Leigh [
mailto:morpheus01@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Sunday, August 13, 2000 11:38 PM
To:
dschilberg@freemarkets.comSubject:
VG2 Radar protection
Hi,
I just read your post regarding
the VG2 protection. I was wondering what
you meant by the cloaking that the
cop had not put on. Does it mean that the
cop can catch us if we have a
radar detector installed in our cars? I have a
Valentine One, and I drive
thru Virginia at times, and I usually hook my
detector to the sun visor and
run the wires along the sunroof to conceal the
fact that i have a
detector. So do you mean to say that the cops with VG2
can know if we have a
detector?
And i thought that the detector is only a receiver and does
not transmit
anything. If so, how does a cop know that we have something
installed?
Jason
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:29:54
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Greddy TD04L?? which is it?
Which of the turbos mentioned in
millions of previous posts is the
Greddy TD04L related to?? 15G, 13G, 17G
etc??
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 16:34:04
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: VG2 Radar protection (OT)
Is there a detector (preferably a
version of the V1) that uses remote sensors
mounted somewhere at the front
and back of the car and that has a control panel
that can be hidden in the
cockpit? I'd like to get a truly stealth detector for
my Stealth.
And now that I got nailed by a photo radar, I'd better get one of
those
www.redlineauto.com license plate covers,
too... :-|
Thanks... -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
"Schilberg, Darren" wrote:
>
> Jason,
>
> This will get confusing so don't get bogged down with
all the words (an
> excerpt from the Valentine 1 web page (
www.valentine1.com> <
http://www.valentine1.com> ) is near the
bottom for those of you looking
> for the correct answer quickly).
Note that if the radar detector is not on
> then nobody can detect it (and
you can not detect anything). This is what
> the Virginia cops want
(us to not detect them not them not being able to
> detect us). [My
apologies to any Virginia cops here or others in the list
> ... now you
know what car to look for on your roads. :-)]
> Not many
cops can detect a radar detector visually. Many things can be
>
mounted to visors and windshields (cell phones, G-Tech Pro, compass,
note
> pad, cup holder, CD holder, etc.) that assuming this is a radar
detector is
> quite a bad idea. Also, if you are going 60 mph and
they are sitting still
> then they only have a small window of time to
look, recognize, and detect
> what it is (60 mph is 88 feet per second and
if you can see something from
> 50 feet away to 10 feet away then they
have about a half second to do this).
> Whew. It's like seeing a
plane fly overhead, detect, recognize, and then
> decide if you should
shoot it down based on its silhouette. Not a job I
> would like to
have. Imagine cops trying to memorize all the silhouettes of
> all
the detectors on the market. Note that this is the method not
employed
> (however if they are behind you and see the lights blinking on
it then they
> will certainly give you a ticket)
>
Getting back to your question ... the cops use VG2 to detect radar
>
detectors. Therefore, a radar detector with VG2 proof (also called
>
"stealth" mode) is the cloaking or "hiding" device that makes them
appear
> hidden, turned off, non-existent to cops. This means that
you have a radar
> detector since you can detect radar. (Not that
the V1 is called a radar
> locator since it not only detects it but it
tells you where it is coming
> from as well and perhaps they should not
use radar since laser is in there
> too but that is not my
decision.)
> However, the cops to have what they call a
radar detector-detector. This
> detects who has a radar
detector. Don't let this part confuse you either.
> The VG2 is sort
of a radar detector-detector detector. (Having fun yet?)
> It
doesn't really detect where the radar detector-detectors are it merely
>
masks itself to make it difficult for anyone who wants to find if you
have
> one. Luckily, you have the V1 which is the best in the world
at all of this
> gadgetry (that's why it is nearly $400
too).
> Here is an excerpt from the V1 website FAQ (
www.valentine1.com> <
http://www.valentine1.com> ) which gives
better answers than I
can:
>
Does Valentine One have "stealth?" Is this the same as
> being VG2
proof?
>
>
Yes and yes. The real question is, Can the detector be
> detected by an
instrument called VG2, which is a detector of radar
> detectors. Good
radar detectors, like good AM/FM radios, are
> super-heterodyne receivers,
and they all share a common trait. They receive,
> but they also transmit
a signal; it's called "local oscillator emissions."
> This transmitted
signal can be found by another radio if it's tuned to the
> right
frequency. And VG2 is a merely a radio tuned to the right frequency
>
range for most
detectors.
>
A little history: Escort was the first X-K super-heterodyne
> detector.
Jim Jaeger and I invented it, working out of his basement in the
>
mid-seventies. Since then, other detector makers have taken the easy way
and
> copied Escort's frequency scheme, which means they have the same
L-O
> frequency. So VG2 knows right where to look.
>
>
The one detector that's apart from the pack is V1. I didn't
> copy myself.
So VG2 misses Valentine One. But even if it were tuned to the
> right
spot, we'd still be hard to find because we use sophisticated
> filtering.
In our tests, Valentine One is better than all others for
> VG2-proofing.
Our best competitors are pretty good, maybe good enough. Our
> worst
competitors are clueless; Car and Driver, in its last test, detected
> one
of them 3/4 of a mile away.
>
> Something is in
the far reaches of my brain remembering something about
> some people
complaining about their Amendment rights to radio and such.
> Since a
radar detector simply detects it is really just a radio tuned to a
>
specific frequency that beeps when something is on that channel.
However,
> someone in VA has gotten around that since these are no illegal
there. The
> trick I do ... I mean ... what I have heard to do is to
keep it on until it
> detects something (which is usually about a mile
away) and then unplug it.
> This way you know something is out there and
can slow down for two miles.
> After you successfully pass the cop you can
plug it in again. This worked
> for the stretch of I-81 from WV to
TN this summer. It also works since
> there are four dozen cars in
front and behind within that mile so picking
> out which car it is a few
hundred feet away is nearly impossible.
>
> Hope this
helps.
>
> --Flash!
>
dschilberg@freemarkets.com>
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
>
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Leigh [
mailto:morpheus01@hotmail.com]
>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 11:38 PM
>
To:
dschilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: VG2 Radar protection
>
> Hi,
> I just read your post regarding the VG2
protection. I was wondering what
> you meant by the cloaking that the cop
had not put on. Does it mean that the
>
> cop can catch us if we
have a radar detector installed in our cars? I have a
>
> Valentine
One, and I drive thru Virginia at times, and I usually hook my
> detector
to the sun visor and run the wires along the sunroof to conceal the
>
> fact that i have a detector. So do you mean to say that the cops with
VG2
> can know if we have a detector?
> And i thought
that the detector is only a receiver and does not transmit
> anything. If
so, how does a cop know that we have something installed?
> Jason
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 07:36:34
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Greddy TD04L?? which is it?
HKS and GReddy (and maybe others)
market the The Mitsubishi Sport
Turbo, which is the TD04L-13G-6cm2, as
"theirs". The TD04L has a
slightly larger turbine wheel than the TD04. Some
shops mill the
compressor housing and replace the 13G compressor wheel with
the 15G
or 17G compressor wheel.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth
316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Tyrrell" <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
To:
"gto" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, August 14, 2000 8:29 AM
Subject: Team3S: Greddy TD04L?? which is
it?
Which of the turbos mentioned in millions of previous posts is
the
Greddy TD04L related to?? 15G, 13G, 17G etc??
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 12:07:18
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: VG2 Radar protection (OT)
Jim,
Yes
the V1 has a remote indicator but the detector still has to be
visible in
order to locate the stuff. It works well at night when the red
letters
and numbers normally glaring in the darkness are down by the
cigarette
lighter. Incidentally, where were you that you got nailed and how
could
they tell it was turned on and what was the situation? The great
thing
with the V1 is that if you have a front console area then you can
place it in
there and its power will still sniff out something a quarter or
half mile
away. This would also make it hidden. The V1 is the only
true
360-degree radar locator that I have felt comfortable using so no
matter
where you place it (as long as it has a clear view out the front and
back)
it will work flawlessly. Refer to their web page (
www.valentine1.com<
http://www.valentine1.com> ) for more
FAQ about tinted windows, sloped
windshields, etc.
I removed
a Bel from my car that had its front sensor near the front air
intake dam
which was quite hidden from photo radar. This is good, but it
did not
have a rear detector and the front one was too low to be any good
(the car
was originally from New York if that makes any difference).
If
you want to hide it elsewhere in the cockpit I don't recommend getting
the
upgrade (an additional hidden display for $50 or $100 I forget how much)
as
it is not as small as you may want. I love the "concealed display"
and
am glad I got it so other people can't tell when it is on. That is
why I
was wondering about the photo picture. Only if the photo picture
has VG2
and can tell that your detector is on would it be accurate.
Otherwise
owning a detector is only illegal in D.C. in the US (I don't know
about
other countries) so you might be able to fight that one (note that I am
not
here to cheat, lie, or stretch the truth but that sometimes when
people
ass-u-me then we know what that makes out of "u" and
"me").
I have been using the V1 since May 1997 (about 25,000
miles logged but
not all highway touring miles with the V1 as daily commutes
are not in need
of a radar detector). I've had only one ticket and that
was from laser in
WV when I was being stupid and leading the pack of cars
(note to those with
not much highway driving experience ... never lead for an
extended period of
time when you are 25 mph over the speed limit but do the
lead and follow
technique and NEVER lead a pack around a big sweeping
downhill blind curve
that is 3 miles in from the border ... silly me).
I would say that the V1
has save me from about 8 speeding tickets and at $400
has paid for itself
again and again (each speeding ticket would be at least
$100 since they were
highway and usually 10-25 mph over the limit). It
has also saved points on
my license, kept my insurance rates down, and not
tossed me in jail. These
are the areas that people forget where a radar
detector can help you.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com1995
Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Matthews [
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
Sent:
Monday, August 14, 2000 10:34 AM
To: Team3S Technical Forum
Subject:
Team3S: RE: VG2 Radar protection (OT)
Is there a detector (preferably
a version of the V1) that uses
remote sensors
mounted somewhere at the
front and back of the car and that has a control
panel
that can be hidden
in the cockpit? I'd like to get a truly stealth detector
for
my
Stealth. And now that I got nailed by a photo radar, I'd better get
one
of
those
www.redlineauto.com
license plate covers, too... :-|
Thanks...
-Jim
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 14:31:00
-0400
From:
ukyo@avana.netSubject:
Team3S: Dashed against the rocks.
I just have to share this
story...
I was looking around on the internet for decent prices
on
3000GT VR4s or SLs, when I found a '95 SL at a local
Cadillac dealer.
Seeing as my only experience with
3000GTs has been my base coupe I decided
to drive my
Storm over and take that SL for a test drive. I get
there and the salesman I talked to on the phone is
busy, so I wait a
while. After about an hour they come
over and tell me that the car is
blowing white smoke
when pushed hard, and they are going to wholesale
it.
I asked if I could still buy it, and they said yes. It
would be as is, no warranty. I then inquired as to how
much.
He mulled some numbers over and came back with
$6,000. I was so
excited that I told him we needed to
look at it. We drove over to the
wholesale prep lot,
and we could not find it. We looked for 30 minutes
before we gave up. Turns out they shipped it off for
wholesale
that morning. :(
I could have had 2 3000GTs for less than
$30K. I
really wish they had not moved that car, as it would
have
been a perfect fixer-upper for me to get hands on
knowledge of these
cars.
The hunt for something better than a '97 base coupe
continues. :)
- -- Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N FIPK /
Red)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 11:51:40
-0700
From: "Steve Gula" <
mrelloco@eudoramail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: VG2 Radar protection (OT)
Detectors are still illegal in
the state of VA, last time I checked/got pulled.
- ---
-
------------------------------------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
(
loco3kgt@ec3s.org)
- --1995 Glacier
White Pearl 3000GT
- --License Plate : "BOWB4ME"
- ------------------
-
--East Coast 3000GT/Stealth
- --http://www.ec3s.org/
-
------------------------------------------------
Join 18
million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at
http://www.eudoramail.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:16:19
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: VG2 Radar protection
A follow-up to my previous post
about your rights to radio signals (this is
taken from the Valentine One
website,
www.valentine1.com):
<
http://www.valentine1.com):>
*
Valentine One is defined as a radio by the FCC. It receives only.
It's a
passive device that in no way interferes with the communications or
business
of others.
* The Federal Communication Act of 1934 guarantees the right
to
receive radio transmissions of all types on all frequencies. Traffic
radar
is not privileged communication: in fact, it's not communication of any
sort
because no information is conveyed to another party. It is surveillance
by
radio waves, and that is not protected by any laws.
-
--Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com1995
Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: Schilberg, Darren
Sent: Monday, August
14, 2000 9:23 AM
<snip>
Something is in the far
reaches of my brain remembering something about
some people complaining about
their Amendment rights to radio and such.
Since a radar detector simply
detects it is really just a radio tuned to a
specific frequency that beeps
when something is on that channel. However,
someone in VA has gotten
around that since these are illegal there.
Hope this helps.
-
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 17:47:20
-0400 (EDT)
From: Nick Xiong <
nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 11:22:16 -0400
strange, how do u reset the
ECU? battery cables or fusebox? I recently
reset my ECU also
(when I raced that Supra) thru the fusebox & it didn't
erase my radio
settings. but I also remember when I had to replace the
battery &
it still didn't set the radio into security mode either... but
when I get
home tomorrow I can email u my code so u can try it. if u still
need it
that is.
- ------Original Message------
From: "Michael" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Help, I
don't have a stereo. I reset my ECU the other day and had to
re-enter
the code for the radio. Since I didn't have it with me, I guessed
at it
wrongly. Now it is just saying Off when I turn it on and won't give
me
the chance to enter the code. It's been over a day. Is there a way
to
reset it so I can enter the code again?
Michael
98
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 16:59:36
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 11:22:16 -0400
Nick, your code won't
work on Michael's radio. They are unique, to a point.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Nick Xiong [
mailto:nxiong@juno.com]
Sent: Monday,
August 14, 2000 4:47 PM
To: Michael;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 11:22:16 -0400
strange, how do u
reset the ECU? battery cables or fusebox? I recently
reset my ECU
also (when I raced that Supra) thru the fusebox & it didn't
erase my
radio settings. but I also remember when I had to replace the
battery
& it still didn't set the radio into security mode either... but
when I
get home tomorrow I can email u my code so u can try it. if u
still
need it that is.
- ------Original Message------
From:
"Michael" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Help, I
don't have a stereo. I reset my ECU the other day and had to
re-enter
the code for the radio. Since I didn't have it with me, I guessed
at it
wrongly. Now it is just saying Off when I turn it on and won't give
me
the chance to enter the code. It's been over a day. Is there a way
to
reset it so I can enter the code again?
Michael
98
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:29:41
-0700
From: "Veilside GTO" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Aftermarket clutch dilemma - NIRA
Hello everyone,
The NIRA
event held an August 12 & 13 at Seattle recently was an interesting
one.
I was there but unfortunately overpowered my clutch on the most crucial
day
of my life!! (It was bound to happen - my greatest fear was that the
clutch
would give up on me on the day of NIRA and it did!) Nevertheless, I
still ran
a 12.9 @ 113 mph. NW-DSM guys were there and gave much support for
the 3S. My
times were disappointing as the clutch kept slipping leaving me
sitting in
the staging pit spinning but not going anywhere. Otherwise, the
event on the
whole was really interesting especially having the opportunity
to meet Ryan
Peterson and Craig Libberman. As a side note, I came in first
for the
Meguiars Super Tuner Fest Car show for the Novice class.
With my clutch
almost gone, the DSM seniors were recommending the 2600 lb 6
pug ACT
street/race clutch. Many have told me to get this clutch and I
have
considered it a couple of times. My question is will this clutch be
suitable
for the 3000GT.Stealth? Compare this clutch to the RPS turbo clutch
and the
Centerforce, what are the differences? Another close comrade
mentioned the
AP racing clutch. Will the ACT clutch be sufficient? All this
time, I have
always felt our stock clutch to be strong enough but I am
thinking that if I
were to install a stock clutch again, I would probably go
thru it very
quickly. All this being said, I am also in search for a clutch
which will be
strong enough to launch my car but not blow my transmission. I
have heard
that a stronger clutch might be good but our Getrag transmissions
might not
be able to take the massive power launch. Could I please get those
of you
with aftermarket clutches to share your experience? In terms of price,
which
clutch would be reasonable good and yet not priced to give a person a
heart
attack.
Thanks in advance...
Julian Huang
94
Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
gtovr4@postalzone.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 20:36:57
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: VG2 Radar protection (OT)
I have a K40 undetectable system in my '94
VR4. It has front and rear
detection and is virtually undetectable
unless you know exactly what you are
looking for. It stands up very
well in comparison tests usually besting the
competition in most or all
tests. The "undetectable" systems start at close
to $600 and go on up
to over $1000 depending upon options (laser detection,
radar source locator,
jammer and so on).
Mine has no visible control panel. A control
panel is a giveaway that you
have a detctor. There is a LED in the dash
that looks like and alram LED,
and a volume and mode knob under the dash that
is very plain looking and
hard to see even if you know where it is. The
front and rear detection
units are installed behind the bumper shell.
They also don't have stickers
or identifying information on them (I removed
everything) so even if you did
find them (after removing the bumper - not
likely on the side of the road)
they look the same as any other control box
like those found under the hood.
The only direct comparison I can make is
the one time I was out romping
through the desert with a few friends (Ferrari
F355 and Supra TT if anyone
is interested). One had a Valentine VGx and
the other had a Bel 8xx
something. (Sorry, I don't pay much attention
to radar detectors -- I like
to set them once and forget they exist).
Anyway, I got convincing blips
well over a mile -- could have been more --
before we passed the patrol car.
I certainly could not see the car in the
rolling hills we were on and had
almost convinced myself it was a false
warning. I had the odd blip prior to
that but nothing steady. One
of the other units apparently didn't fire at
all until we were about a
quarter mile away and within site of the cruiser,
the other one didn't fire
at all until it would have been way too late. I
am certain it was
instant on RADAR in use as I got the warning blips very
early, then the
confirmation blips a few moments later. I was in front so I
do not know
how that affects detection of units behind. In any case,
that
experience alone saved us all a lot of grief since triple digits were
the
norm that morning. And yes, the F355 actually does 175+ mph without
much
effort.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Matthews
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 7:34 AM
> To:
Team3S Technical Forum
> Subject: Team3S: RE: VG2 Radar protection
(OT)
>
>
>
> Is there a detector (preferably a version
of the V1) that
> uses remote sensors
> mounted somewhere at the
front and back of the car and that has a
> control panel
> that can
be hidden in the cockpit? I'd like to get a truly
> stealth detector
for
> my Stealth. And now that I got nailed by a photo radar,
I'd
> better get one of
> those
www.redlineauto.com license plate covers,
too... :-|
>
> Thanks... -Jim
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#233
*********************