team3s
Sunday, August 13
2000
Volume 01 : Number
232
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:43:16 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 11:22:16 -0400
-
--------
+> Help, I don't have a stereo. I reset my ECU the
other day and had to
+> re-enter the code for the radio. Since I
didn't have it with me, I guessed
+> at it wrongly. Now it is just
saying Off when I turn it on and won't give
+> me the chance to enter the
code. It's been over a day. Is there a way to
+> reset it so I
can enter the code again?
+>
+> Michael
+> 98 VR4
+>
+>
+> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
- --------
from the CD-ROM backup manual (54-185). do
yourself a favor and
buy one.. it's worth it's weight in gold..
one hour ought to do
it.. I had to do this once
myself..
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
7. If the input security code does
not agree with that in
memory, 1 Err is displayed on the display. In a few
se-conds,
it will change to code. So, repeat steps 4 and
5.
NOTE
(1) The security code can be set three times at the
most.
(2) The second error is displayed as 2 Err. If the third
error is
made, 3 Err is displayed and then it changes
to OFF.
(3) When setting is
attempted four or more times, keeping
the ignition key in the ACC or ON
position for about
one hour will automatically erase the OFF
display.
After the erasing, therefore, repeat step 3 and up.
If the
ignition key is turned to the OFF position during
one-hour period of keeping
it in ACC or ON position,
the OFF display will be erased.
With the
ignition key placed in the ACC position
again, press the POWER button, and
the OFF display
will be resumed. Therefore, keep this state for
another
one hour or
so.
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Dave
=======================
=
95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 15:56:01
-0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel Hop
Could somebody please tell me
what--in an AWD
car--would
make wheel hop more likely during
a hard launch: higher
tire pressure
or lower tire pressure?
I have been getting really
terrible
launches recently with lots of wheel
hop (I think) in my
VR4. These
are not the usual smooth launches
that I usually got in
the past.
I was running 38 psi on all four
Z-rated
tires.
Please respond soon! Thanks!
- --Errin
94
VR4
Seattle
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 04:51:23
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Tranny Fill Plug
Hey guys,
Where is it? I am in a bit of a bind
since I have taken off the drain
plug, but am not sure which of a number of
plugs is the fill plug. I
also am working with no jack so difficult to see
real well. Please help
me prevent a tow.
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 12 Aug 2000 18:48:32
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil seal leaking
Chris:
If I remember correctly you did a
4 bolt main conversion on your car which means you bought a Mitsubishi front end
seal case. The Mitsubishi front end seal that I have is made by
Fruedenburg NOK. These are very high quality seals. When I was
at Peterbilt we worked with Fruedenburg NOK on Wheel-end seals for class 8
trucks. The Fruedenburg NOK seals outlasted all other seals by 3 times the
duration but the seals were just as sensitive to contamination and more
sensitive to installation technique. This was not surprizing because the
standard seal on a Peterbilt is Chicago Rawhide which is actually made of
leather. What was surprising was that other upgrade seals were not any
better, except for the NOK. The Fruedenburg NOK sample seals that failed
in field test all either had particles of RTV lodged in the seals or wore worn
at an angle showing that they were installed incorrectly. After 300,000
miles on 50 trucks there was not any failures due to wear. Other seals
te!
nded to start having failure a 100,000. Peterbilt did not
make this seal standard because it cost more and installation was more
sensitive.
Ubnfortunately this does not help you except to warn you be
carefull to keep RTV away from the seal and make sure that no strands of RTV get
on the oil pan. You also have to be carefull when installing the
seal.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com1991
VR4
My engine problem is that I don't have one to put back in the
car
Original Message below:
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 21:43:34
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Possible oil leak in front crank seal...
heh, I don't know why
I didn't think of this when I saw it, but when I
pulled the oil pan, I saw a
spring that was a few inches long. I didn't
know what it was from at that
point because I wasn't thinking too clearly.
Now that I thought about it
awhile, it must be from the front crank seal.
duh. =) That
explains why it is leaking. But why would the spring come
off.
They don't just let go like that do they? I must have installed it
wrong I guess...
Chris
_______________________________________________________________________
Free
Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html_______________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:34:02
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Tranny Fill Plug
It's on the center section of the tranny, about half
way up the side facing
the front of the car. The tranny has a bellhousing, a
large center section
and the end cap.
Jim
Berry
PS: don't drain a transmission and then remove the fill plug --- if
it dosn't
come out for some reason you'r dead
in the water.
===================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
>
> Hey
guys,
>
> Where is it? I am in a bit of a bind since I have taken
off the drain
> plug, but am not sure which of a number of plugs is the
fill plug. I
> also am working with no jack so difficult to see real well.
Please help
> me prevent a tow.
>
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:56:18
-0700
From: "Bbizo" <
bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Tranny Fill Plug
Errin --
I'm impressed that you are
doing this without a jack, however, you would be
done by now if you had
one.
I don't know how familiar you are with these cars, but there is a
transfer
case drain and a transmission drain. Assuming you have drained
the
transmission, the fill plug is on the front (toward the front of the car)
of
the tranny about 3" up in the center. It is identical to the drain
plug
except no magnet. The easiest way to fill it, jack or none, is to put a
tube
down from the engine compartment into the fill hole. Put a funnel on
the
tube and fill until fluid appears on the graound.
Let us know if
you need more help.
Bob Bissonette
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 20:02:12
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:
Tranny Fill Plug
Hey Bob;
It wasn't 't Errin who posted for
help on this matter. He can find the fill
hole with a blindfold on
;-))
Best
Darc
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bbizo"
<
bbizo@telisphere.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 12, 2000 7:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Tranny Fill
Plug
> Errin --
>
> I'm impressed that you are doing
this without a jack, however, you would
be
> done by now if you had
one.
>
> I don't know how familiar you are with these cars, but
there is a transfer
> case drain and a transmission drain. Assuming you
have drained the
> transmission, the fill plug is on the front (toward the
front of the car)
of
> the tranny about 3" up in the center. It is
identical to the drain plug
> except no magnet. The easiest way to fill
it, jack or none, is to put a
tube
> down from the engine compartment
into the fill hole. Put a funnel on the
> tube and fill until fluid
appears on the graound.
>
> Let us know if you need more
help.
>
> Bob Bissonette
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 11:53:16
-0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Timing Belt - Clutch
Man, just in time. Jeff Lucius and
I just finished the clutch in my '92
RT/TT and posted step by step
instructions on his web page at
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/1-repair.htm.
That'll take you
directly to the Garage Page. I spent $500 on a GT Pro
StreetSpec clutch and
it's holding just fine. I little softer pedal
than the original clutch and
I'm almost done with my break-in period, but
nothing bad yet at all.
Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67
Mustang
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
The68th@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, August 12, 2000 12:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Timing Belt -
Clutch
> Hey guys, I think it's time for my timing belt. I'm
not sure if the guy
> before me did it, how can I be sure? The car
has 74,000 miles, but I had
to
> do my AC belt by myself so they may
not have had the 60,000mile. If I
have
> to do this is it
possible to do myself, or would I be better off shelling
out
> the
$800.00 to get it done?
> Also, it's time for a new clutch. What do
you guys suggest and how much
are
> they. And is this possible to
do myself or what will it cost to get it
done?
> Thanks
again,
>
> Chris '92 Stealth ES
> Totally stock with a
slipping clutch and a timing belt mystery.
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 00:40:57
+0100
From: George Shaw <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: In pursuit of bigger, better brakes!
If you guys allow a
limey to join in I am interested in getting my hands on
a unrated front and
rear brake kit for a 3KGT UK spec..
I have heard a lot of talk about
using Porsche calipers (for the 993
Bi-Turbo) and the Porterfield rotors and
R4S pads. Is this a straight bolt
on conversion or do I need special
brackets/machining? What is a top notch
kit for front and rear Pro Street /
Light Track.
At 20:21 03/08/00 -0700, you wrote:
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>
>
>
> Is anybody interested in improving their braking capability?
>
>
> > Brad Bedell has been wanting to develop a 2-piece rotor for
his Porsche
> 'Big
> > Red' brake kit. Originally he was
interested in KVR built hats and KVR
> rotors
> > (probably
Brembo blanks). We are now both interested in Porsche's
> 322mm x
32mm
> > cross-drilled bi-turbo GT2 rotors and possibly Porsche's 330mm
x 34mm GT3
> > rotors! For hats, he may also have a local shop
build them instead of
> KVR. If
> > you take a look at the
Mov'it kit at
> >
http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html,
they talk about the
> superiority of
> > Porsche rotors
(metallurgy, dual vanes for cooling, 'cross-drilled'
> holes are
>
> actually cast at 4mm instead of drilled at 8mm, etc.). Also the GT2
rotors
> > should cost about $175 each off the
shelf.
>==============================================================
>
>I
sent the following message to Brad in April ---- Porterfield rotors are
>used by
>quite a few on the list and are respected by most, if not
all.
>I have no desire to use the cross-drilled even if the cracking issue
is
>resolved.
>As to size, Porterfield said they can make
anything you want !!!!!!!
>
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Jim Berry [
mailto:fastmax@home.com]
>Sent:
Thursday, April 06, 2000 9:08 PM
>To:
bbedell@austin.rr.com>Subject:
Re: rotors
>
>Brad
>
>I was over by Porterfield
Enterprises so I stopped in and got some additional
>info about the two
piece rotors --- they are basically custom two piece
>rotors.
>The
hat section is defined by the stock rotor and the rest is defined by
the
>user [ including 1.25" thickness ].
>
>I'd like to see if
we could get a group purchase going ---- If we offer
>both
the
>1.18" and the 1.25" with the same hat we should be able to get 10 or
more to
>sign up. We didn't talk about any volume
price.
>
>Estimated price was $300 or so for the hat [ I
didn't ask about anodizing ]
>and $110 for the 1.25"
rotors.
>
>Plus cryo is an additional $40.
>
>Comments
?????????
>
> Jim
Berry
>
>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#232
*********************