team3s             Sunday, August 13 2000             Volume 01 : Number 232




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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 13:43:16 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 11:22:16 -0400

- --------

+> Help, I don't have a stereo.  I reset my ECU the other day and had to
+> re-enter the code for the radio.  Since I didn't have it with me, I guessed
+> at it wrongly.  Now it is just saying Off when I turn it on and won't give
+> me the chance to enter the code.  It's been over a day.  Is there a way to
+> reset it so I can enter the code again?
+>
+> Michael
+> 98 VR4
+>
+>
+> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- --------

from the CD-ROM backup manual (54-185).  do yourself a favor and
buy one..  it's worth it's weight in gold..  one hour ought to do
it.. I had to do this once myself..

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

7. If the input security code does not agree with that in
memory, 1 Err is displayed on the display. In a few se-conds,
it will change to code. So, repeat steps 4 and 5.

NOTE
(1) The security code can be set three times at the most.
(2) The second error is displayed as 2 Err. If the third
error is made, 3 Err is displayed and then it changes
to OFF.
(3) When setting is attempted four or more times, keeping
the ignition key in the ACC or ON position for about
one hour will automatically erase the OFF display.

After the erasing, therefore, repeat step 3 and up.
If the ignition key is turned to the OFF position during
one-hour period of keeping it in ACC or ON position,
the OFF display will be erased.
With the ignition key placed in the ACC position
again, press the POWER button, and the OFF display
will be resumed. Therefore, keep this state for another
one hour or so.

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\


Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 15:56:01 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Wheel Hop

Could somebody please tell me
what--in an AWD car--would
make wheel hop more likely during
a hard launch:  higher tire pressure
or lower tire pressure?

I have been getting really terrible
launches recently with lots of wheel
hop (I think) in my VR4.  These
are not the usual smooth launches
that I usually got in the past.

I was running 38 psi on all four
Z-rated tires.

Please respond soon!  Thanks!

- --Errin
94 VR4
Seattle


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 04:51:23 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Tranny Fill Plug

Hey guys,

Where is it? I am in a bit of a bind since I have taken off the drain
plug, but am not sure which of a number of plugs is the fill plug. I
also am working with no jack so difficult to see real well. Please help
me prevent a tow.

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: 12 Aug 2000 18:48:32 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil seal leaking

Chris:

If I remember correctly you did a 4 bolt main conversion on your car which means you bought a Mitsubishi front end seal case.   The Mitsubishi front end seal that I have is made by Fruedenburg NOK.  These are very high quality seals.   When I was at Peterbilt we worked with Fruedenburg NOK on Wheel-end seals for class 8 trucks.  The Fruedenburg NOK seals outlasted all other seals by 3 times the duration but the seals were just as sensitive to contamination and more sensitive to installation technique. This was not surprizing because the standard seal on a Peterbilt is Chicago Rawhide which is actually made of leather.  What was surprising was that other upgrade seals were not any better, except for the NOK.  The Fruedenburg NOK sample seals that failed in field test all either had particles of RTV lodged in the seals or wore worn at an angle showing that they were installed incorrectly.  After 300,000 miles on 50 trucks there was not any failures due to wear.  Other seals te!
 nded to start having failure a 100,000.  Peterbilt did not make this seal standard because it cost more and installation was more sensitive.

Ubnfortunately this does not help you except to warn you be carefull to keep RTV away from the seal and make sure that no strands of RTV get on the oil pan.  You also have to be carefull when installing the seal.

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com
1991 VR4
My engine problem is that I don't have one to put back in the car

Original Message below:


Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 21:43:34 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Possible oil leak in front crank seal...
 
heh, I don't know why I didn't think of this when I saw it, but when I
pulled the oil pan, I saw a spring that was a few inches long. I didn't
know what it was from at that point because I wasn't thinking too clearly.
Now that I thought about it awhile, it must be from the front crank seal.
duh.  =)  That explains why it is leaking.  But why would the spring come
off.  They don't just let go like that do they?  I must have installed it
wrong I guess...
 
Chris
 


_______________________________________________________________________

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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:34:02 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Tranny Fill Plug

It's on the center section of the tranny, about half way up the side facing
the front of the car. The tranny has a bellhousing, a large center section
and the end cap.

    Jim Berry

PS: don't drain a transmission and then remove the fill plug --- if it dosn't
      come out for some reason you'r dead in the water.
===================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>

>
> Hey guys,
>
> Where is it? I am in a bit of a bind since I have taken off the drain
> plug, but am not sure which of a number of plugs is the fill plug. I
> also am working with no jack so difficult to see real well. Please help
> me prevent a tow.
>



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:56:18 -0700
From: "Bbizo" <bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Tranny Fill Plug

Errin --

I'm impressed that you are doing this without a jack, however, you would be
done by now if you had one.

I don't know how familiar you are with these cars, but there is a transfer
case drain and a transmission drain. Assuming you have drained the
transmission, the fill plug is on the front (toward the front of the car) of
the tranny about 3" up in the center. It is identical to the drain plug
except no magnet. The easiest way to fill it, jack or none, is to put a tube
down from the engine compartment into the fill hole. Put a funnel on the
tube and fill until fluid appears on the graound.

Let us know if you need more help.

Bob Bissonette


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 20:02:12 -0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Tranny Fill Plug

Hey Bob;

It wasn't 't  Errin who posted for help on this matter. He can find the fill
hole with a blindfold on ;-))

Best

Darc
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bbizo" <bbizo@telisphere.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 7:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Tranny Fill Plug


> Errin --
>
> I'm impressed that you are doing this without a jack, however, you would
be
> done by now if you had one.
>
> I don't know how familiar you are with these cars, but there is a transfer
> case drain and a transmission drain. Assuming you have drained the
> transmission, the fill plug is on the front (toward the front of the car)
of
> the tranny about 3" up in the center. It is identical to the drain plug
> except no magnet. The easiest way to fill it, jack or none, is to put a
tube
> down from the engine compartment into the fill hole. Put a funnel on the
> tube and fill until fluid appears on the graound.
>
> Let us know if you need more help.
>
> Bob Bissonette
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 11:53:16 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Timing Belt - Clutch

Man, just in time.  Jeff Lucius and I just finished the clutch in my '92
RT/TT and posted step by step instructions on his web page at
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/1-repair.htm.  That'll take you
directly to the Garage Page.  I spent $500 on a GT Pro StreetSpec clutch and
it's holding just fine.  I little softer pedal than the original clutch and
I'm almost done with my break-in period, but nothing bad yet at all.

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <The68th@aol.com>
To: <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2000 12:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Timing Belt - Clutch


> Hey guys, I think it's time for my timing belt.  I'm not sure if the guy
> before me did it, how can I be sure?  The car has 74,000 miles, but I had
to
> do my AC belt by myself so they may not have had the 60,000mile.  If I
have
> to do this is it possible to do myself, or would I be better off shelling
out
> the $800.00 to get it done?
> Also, it's time for a new clutch.  What do you guys suggest and how much
are
> they.  And is this possible to do myself or what will it cost to get it
done?
> Thanks again,
>
> Chris '92 Stealth ES
> Totally stock with a slipping clutch and a timing belt mystery.
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 00:40:57 +0100
From: George Shaw <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: In pursuit of bigger, better brakes!

If you guys allow a limey to join in I am interested in getting my hands on
a unrated front and rear brake kit for a 3KGT UK spec..

I have heard a lot of talk about using Porsche calipers (for the 993
Bi-Turbo) and the Porterfield rotors and R4S pads. Is this a straight bolt
on conversion or do I need special brackets/machining? What is a top notch
kit for front and rear Pro Street / Light Track.


At 20:21 03/08/00 -0700, you wrote:

>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>
>
> > Is anybody interested in improving their braking capability?
> >
> > Brad Bedell has been wanting to develop a 2-piece rotor for his Porsche
> 'Big
> > Red' brake kit.  Originally he was interested in KVR built hats and KVR
> rotors
> > (probably Brembo blanks).  We are now both interested in Porsche's
> 322mm x 32mm
> > cross-drilled bi-turbo GT2 rotors and possibly Porsche's 330mm x 34mm GT3
> > rotors!  For hats, he may also have a local shop build them instead of
> KVR.  If
> > you take a look at the Mov'it kit at
> > http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html, they talk about the
> superiority of
> > Porsche rotors (metallurgy, dual vanes for cooling, 'cross-drilled'
> holes are
> > actually cast at 4mm instead of drilled at 8mm, etc.).  Also the GT2 rotors
> > should cost about $175 each off the shelf.
>==============================================================
>
>I sent the following message to Brad in April ---- Porterfield rotors are
>used by
>quite a few on the list and are respected by most, if not all.
>I have no desire to use the cross-drilled even if the cracking issue is
>resolved.
>As to size, Porterfield  said they can make anything you want !!!!!!!
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
>Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 9:08 PM
>To: bbedell@austin.rr.com
>Subject: Re: rotors
>
>Brad
>
>I was over by Porterfield Enterprises so I stopped in and got some additional
>info about the two piece rotors --- they are basically custom two piece
>rotors.
>The hat section is defined by the stock rotor and the rest is defined by the
>user [ including 1.25" thickness ].
>
>I'd like to see if we could get a group purchase going ---- If we offer
>both the
>1.18" and the 1.25" with the same hat we should be able to get 10 or more to
>sign up. We didn't talk about any volume price.
>
>Estimated price was $300 or so  for the hat [ I didn't ask about anodizing ]
>and $110 for the 1.25" rotors.
>
>Plus cryo is an additional $40.
>
>Comments ?????????
>
>     Jim Berry
>
>
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #232
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