team3s
Saturday, August 12
2000 Volume 01
: Number
231
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 11 Aug 2000 14:50:46 -0400
From: "Ukyo[T]" <
ukyo@avana.net>
Subject: Team3S: Mechanic
locator
I got my car back from the dealer late yesterday. They
did
absolutely nothing to it. All they claimed to have done
was
drive it down to Mitsubishi, get some advice, and then bring
it back
to the lot. They then passed the info on to me when
I came to pick it
up. Now I have to run this load of crap by
you guys so you can have a
good laugh. All of this is true,
as I went over to Mitsubishi after I
got the car, and they
repeated it almost word for word.
*Loosely
quoting the service tech at Mitsubishi*
"It's normal for your oil gauge
to read zero in a 3000GT.
As long as it raises up a little now and then, it
is just fine.
You don't have to worry until the oil warning light
comes
on. In a 3000GT, the oil pressure will almost always read
max
or zero. There is nothing you can do about it."
*End
quote*
My question (which he refused to answer) is why did the
gauge
sit in the middle for the last 2 1/2 months if it is
"normal" for it to read
all or nothing? Why did it suddenly
start acting "normal" after the oil
was changed? I don't
buy it. There is something else wrong here,
and right now
I do not have the skill to troubleshoot it.
He did tell
me that 3000GTs use special filters. Any truth
to that?
All in
all, what I need now is to know if there is anyone in
the Atlanta, GA area
that can tell me a good mechanic to
take my car to. I really need to
find someone to work on
my car while I am in the process of learning
how.
Anyone in the Atlanta area want to mentor me? :)
Oh
yeah... They "claimed" to have just drove it to
Mitsubishi and back,
but now it struggles to crank, and I
can hear engine noise in the speakers
for a little while
after the car is cranked. I was going to get the
dealer to
do my 60K service, but now I think I'll find an
independent
mechanic, or do it myself. I need to get some
experience
working on this car quick, as it looks like there is no one
at
a dealership in my area that is competent enough to
work on it.
What I
wouldn't give to be a "car guy". :(
- -- Travis
'97 3000GT (Base
+ K&N FIPK / Red)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 12:57:00
-0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jeffrey@omega-sw.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mechanic locator
Travis;
Couple of comments...
Have
you check the connector for the oil pressure sensor...on your plenum
are
three electrical connectors attached to a small bracket (looks like a 3)
on
the left side of the plenum (ahead of the throttle body)...the back
connector
(closest to firewall) is for the oil pressure sensor (and the
idiot light, I
think)..are any of these wires broken?...
My guage will be low when
at idle, but jumps right up when the RPM's
increase...is this what yours' is
doing?
Oil filters....I only use OEM (Mitsu) filters on my car...there
has been
lots of debate on this and other list about whether this is
necessary, but I
figure that this is the filter Mitsu wanted for this car,
and the couple of
bucks difference will not break
me.
Sorry...don't live near Atlanta....
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth-
----- Original Message -----
From: Ukyo[T]
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
Friday, August 11, 2000 12:50 PM
Subject: Team3S: Mechanic
locator
I got my car back from the dealer late yesterday. They
did
absolutely nothing to it.
<snip>
What I wouldn't give
to be a "car guy". :(
- -- Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N
FIPK / Red)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 14:11:31
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mechanic locator
> "It's normal for your oil gauge to read
zero in a 3000GT.
> As long as it raises up a little now and then, it is
just fine.
> You don't have to worry until the oil warning light
comes
> on. In a 3000GT, the oil pressure will almost always
read
> max or zero. There is nothing you can do about
it."
Okay, so that tech should be immediately fired. Why even
bother having the
extra expense of putting the gauge on the car if none of
them work. Doofus
(or the guy you took it to was flat-out lying and
they never even took it to
the Mitsubishi dealer).
> He did tell me
that 3000GTs use special filters. Any
> truth to that?
The
OEM filters have a spring-loaded bypass valve in them where if the
filter
gets clogged enough the bypass will open and allow oil to bypass
the
filter. The thinking was that dirty oil is better than no
oil. If you
change your oil religiously according to the maintenance
schedule it
shouldn't be necessary to use the OEM filters. I personally
always use the
Mitsubishi filters as a couple extra bucks isn't going to kill
me, and I
like keeping my car in perfect running condition.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 18:15:07
EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Off Topic- Honda Header needed
If anyone has a Stock Honda header that
will fit a 97 Civic ex V-Tec please
Email me. I sold the Honda's Turbo setup
& header so I need a stock one or
the car can't drive. Tks
Arty 91
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 18:31:33
-0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Team3S: 1
Month to go for the W3SI Gathering!!
Hi all,
Just a quick note to
remind everyone in the Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa,
and Illinois area that
there is 1 month to go before the first W3SI
gathering! We've now added
GO KARTS to the list of activities, so it
should be a lot of fun for
everyone. Check out the URL if you're
interested in more information or
would like to sign up. Hope to see
you there!
http://www.mhtc.net/~wizards/W3SI/Events/Roadrun/RoadRun.htmlGreg
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 18:18:50
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Possible oil leak in front crank seal...
This is incredible. Anyone
have any C4 explosives because I want to put
this car out of its misery (and
me for that matter.) I've spent more time
underneath the car this
summer than driving it.
Anyways, I replaced the engine a little less than
3000 miles ago, and for
the past 2000 or so miles I've noticed an oil leak
coming from the front of
the oil pan right around the crank pulley
area. I figured perhaps I didn't
apply enough sealant to the oil pan in
that area so I finally took the oil
pan off today to apply a better bead of
sealant to the oil pan. After 4
hours of agony, I got the oil pan off
and noticed that there was plenty of
sealant in the area of the leak. I
also noticed that there was oil higher
up than where the oil pan meets the
crank seal housing.
My best guess is that the oil pan wasn't leaking and
now I suspect that the
front crank seal is. The thing is, the crank
seals are only 3000 miles
used, and the leak appeared a while ago. I
thought these seals were fairly
durable. Well, I know that in order to
check the seal, I need to take off
that stupid timing belt. I didn't do
that yet but I did take to top covers
off and noticed that the outer edge of
the timing belt is a little worn. I
can see the steel braids in the
belt on that edge. I doubt this is related
to the oil leak since the
timing belt is still clean of oil, so what could
have caused the outer edge
to wear down. Rubbing on something...but
what?
Thanks,
Chris
92 R/T TT (4 bolt main, 355 turbos, but still
hasn't seen above 7psi yet...)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 23:25:35
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Possible oil leak in front crank seal...
You don't by any chance have the
unorthodox pulleys do you?
Dave Best
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Chris Maxwell <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, August 11, 2000 9:18 PM
Subject: Team3S: Possible oil leak in front
crank seal...
> This is incredible. Anyone have any C4
explosives because I want to put
> this car out of its misery (and me for
that matter.) I've spent more time
> underneath the car this summer
than driving it.
>
> Anyways, I replaced the engine a little less
than 3000 miles ago, and for
> the past 2000 or so miles I've noticed an
oil leak coming from the front
of
> the oil pan right around the crank
pulley area. I figured perhaps I
didn't
> apply enough sealant to
the oil pan in that area so I finally took the oil
> pan off today to
apply a better bead of sealant to the oil pan. After 4
> hours of
agony, I got the oil pan off and noticed that there was plenty of
>
sealant in the area of the leak. I also noticed that there was oil
higher
> up than where the oil pan meets the crank seal
housing.
>
> My best guess is that the oil pan wasn't leaking and
now I suspect that
the
> front crank seal is. The thing is, the
crank seals are only 3000 miles
> used, and the leak appeared a while
ago. I thought these seals were
fairly
> durable. Well, I
know that in order to check the seal, I need to take off
> that stupid
timing belt. I didn't do that yet but I did take to top
covers
>
off and noticed that the outer edge of the timing belt is a little
worn.
I
> can see the steel braids in the belt on that edge. I
doubt this is
related
> to the oil leak since the timing belt is still
clean of oil, so what could
> have caused the outer edge to wear
down. Rubbing on something...but what?
>
> Thanks,
>
Chris
> 92 R/T TT (4 bolt main, 355 turbos, but still hasn't seen above
7psi
yet...)
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 21:43:34
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Possible oil leak in front crank seal...
heh, I don't know why I
didn't think of this when I saw it, but when I
pulled the oil pan, I saw a
spring that was a few inches long. I didn't
know what it was from at
that point because I wasn't thinking too clearly.
Now that I thought about it
awhile, it must be from the front crank seal.
duh. =) That
explains why it is leaking. But why would the spring come
off.
They don't just let go like that do they? I must have installed
it
wrong I guess...
Chris
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, August 11, 2000 6:18 PM
Subject: Possible oil leak in front crank
seal...
> This is incredible. Anyone have any C4 explosives
because I want to put
> this car out of its misery (and me for that
matter.) I've spent more time
> underneath the car this summer than
driving it.
>
> Anyways, I replaced the engine a little less than
3000 miles ago, and for
> the past 2000 or so miles I've noticed an oil
leak coming from the front
of
> the oil pan right around the crank
pulley area. I figured perhaps I
didn't
> apply enough sealant to
the oil pan in that area so I finally took the oil
> pan off today to
apply a better bead of sealant to the oil pan. After 4
> hours of
agony, I got the oil pan off and noticed that there was plenty of
>
sealant in the area of the leak. I also noticed that there was oil
higher
> up than where the oil pan meets the crank seal
housing.
>
> My best guess is that the oil pan wasn't leaking and
now I suspect that
the
> front crank seal is. The thing is, the
crank seals are only 3000 miles
> used, and the leak appeared a while
ago. I thought these seals were
fairly
> durable. Well, I
know that in order to check the seal, I need to take off
> that stupid
timing belt. I didn't do that yet but I did take to top
covers
>
off and noticed that the outer edge of the timing belt is a little
worn.
I
> can see the steel braids in the belt on that edge. I
doubt this is
related
> to the oil leak since the timing belt is still
clean of oil, so what could
> have caused the outer edge to wear
down. Rubbing on something...but what?
>
> Thanks,
>
Chris
> 92 R/T TT (4 bolt main, 355 turbos, but still hasn't seen above
7psi
yet...)
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 23:41:07
-0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <
amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Polyurethane bushings
I'll volunteer my car! It's in pieces
anyways... if they'll pay for towing!
(or we can pitch in)... George, I
contacted them a couple of months ago and
they were interested but at the
time, they were working on a few other
projects at the time. I think the more
calls they get, the more interested
they will be....
Jose
Soriano
visit my Stealth site at
www.3si.org/amahoser-
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Kuo" <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
To: "Team3SI"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Polyurethane
bushings
> Hi All,
>
> I got in contact with Energy
Suspension in prototyping
> polyurethane bushings for the 3S. They
might be
> interested. I will update the latest as soon as
their
> head of engineering gets back from vacation next
week.
>
> A few questions:
>
> 1) Are the parts the same
in all years and models?
>
> 2) They are located in the 949 area
code. They will
> need a 3S for a minimum of 10days. Any
volunteers?
> Mine is my daily driver.. so.. hmm.. wana pitch in
for
> me a rent a Geo Metro?? =)
>
> /George
> '92 RT
TT
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do
You Yahoo!?
> Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
>
http://invites.yahoo.com/>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 12 Aug 2000 05:20:42
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Benifits of aftermarket BOV
I have been following the discussion
on which aftermarket BOV works the best, and it sounds like it is hit or miss if
you will be able to get any BOV to give trouble free operation.
My
question is what are the benefits of a aftermarket BOV? I believe it
will keep the turbo spooled up between shifts but what difference will that make
in 1/4 mile, 0-60 etc...? To me it seems like a lot of hassle and cost for
unknown performance gain.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com91 3000GT VR4
with 2 bad
engines.
_______________________________________________________________________
Free
Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html_______________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 12 Aug 2000 05:41:19
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: looking for TT engine block core
I am looking for a 93+ twin
turbo engine block core. I have a new crank rods and pistons but my block
has a mounting bracket broken off the casting. Anyone who has a lead email
me privately at :
jkmonnin@altavista.comJohn
Monnin.
Update on my engine rebuilt saga:
Dont read if you are
deeply offended by poor service, the moral of the story is Yellow Freight is not
to worried out damaging your shipment.
Over two weeks ago my new 4
bolt main TT shortblock arrived. upon inspection I found yellow paint
poured over the crank rods and cylinder walls. I also noticed there
was a sizable chunk broken off the corner odf the casting. I immediately
called yellow freight and demaned a insurance adjuster. The next day a
claims adjuster exemined the block and told me Yellow would have his report in 3
days. In 4 days Yellow finally recieved the report and asked me if I
wanted to file a claim! I though I alrady had but not by Yellow Freight's
high standards. After filing a claim the local terminal forwarded my claim
the the national terminal which took a few more days. I called the
national terminal but there automated phone sytem will not let you talk to a
representative until your claim is 30 days old!!!. So over 2 weeks after
damaging my block Yellow Freight should have my claim taken car of in the next
few weeks.
The bright side to the story is I have been polishing aluminum
parts to keep myself busy. My thermostat housing looks like chrome.
My fuel rails are sanded and should be completed soon and I have the intake
manifold in the basement just waitng to be polished.
jkmonnin@altavista.comJohn Monnin
91 3000GT VR4 with
91 2 bolt main with worn crank and valve marked
pistons
93 4 bolt main new but casting is broken.
balanced fuel injectors,
improved pre-cats, and soon to have 100HP worth of polished
aluminum.
_______________________________________________________________________
Free
Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html_______________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 10:38:33
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Possible oil leak in front crank seal...
Chris Maxwell
wrote:
> Well, I know that in order to check the seal, I need to take
off
> that stupid timing belt. I didn't do that yet but I did take
to top covers
> off and noticed that the outer edge of the timing belt is
a little worn. I
> can see the steel braids in the belt on that
edge. I doubt this is related
> to the oil leak since the timing
belt is still clean of oil, so what could
> have caused the outer edge to
wear down. Rubbing on something...but what?
How did you set the
timing belt tensioner? If the tensioner pully is set
incorrectly, the
small casting it pivots on can contact the back side of the
timing
belt. That is the most likely area it contacted, check there
first.
Could also be the small stamped steel guides on the head. Are
they correctly
positioned with no bent ends contacting the belt?
best
of luck,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 08:25:00
-0700 (PDT)
From: "Michael" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 11:22:16 -0400
Help, I don't have a
stereo. I reset my ECU the other day and had to
re-enter the code for
the radio. Since I didn't have it with me, I guessed
at it
wrongly. Now it is just saying Off when I turn it on and won't give
me
the chance to enter the code. It's been over a day. Is there a way
to
reset it so I can enter the code again?
Michael
98
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 14:56:55
EDT
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Timing Belt - Clutch
Hey guys, I think it's time for my timing
belt. I'm not sure if the guy
before me did it, how can I be
sure? The car has 74,000 miles, but I had to
do my AC belt by myself
so they may not have had the 60,000mile. If I have
to do this is it
possible to do myself, or would I be better off shelling out
the $800.00 to
get it done?
Also, it's time for a new clutch. What do you guys suggest
and how much are
they. And is this possible to do myself or what will
it cost to get it done?
Thanks again,
Chris '92 Stealth ES
Totally
stock with a slipping clutch and a timing belt mystery.
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#231
*********************