team3s
Thursday, August 10
2000 Volume 01
: Number
229
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 09 Aug 2000 00:39:34 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <
wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clattering Clutch
It depends on what the noise sounds like and
how severe it is. If noise
sounds like BBs being tossed around in a can, it's
probably noise coming
from the input shaft bearing on the tranny. A throw out
bearing will
make noise when the clutch pedal is depressed, NOT when the
clutch is
engaged. If it's a ticking sound that follows the RPMs and isn't
always
there it's probably the throw out bearing sticking on the sleeve of
the
input shaft (the ticking is caused when the throw out bearing sticks
on
the input shaft sleeve and the clock spring slaps against the
bearing
and the fork as it tries to drag the throw out bearing back).
If it's the first type of noise (BB sound), it depends on how loud
it
is. If it's severe it means your tranny's bearings are on the way
out.
If it's the occasional repetetive clicking, eventually the
pressure
plate and throw out bearing will need to be replaced...I speak
from
experience here as I had to have mine replaced 2 weeks ago.
A
BIG THANKS goes out to Templeton Dodge in Vienna, VA for not lubing
the input
shaft sleeve AT ALL when they installed the clutch with the
new tranny 2
years ago....not to mention the fact that they stripped the
threads on the
tranny mounts.
Good Luck,
Bill Wagner
Jim Watkins
wrote:
>
> Over time, I have noticed a clattering associated with
the clutch pedal
> out after starting my 91-VR4. If the clutch pedal
is pushed in, the
> clattering stops. Pedal travel seems normal and
I haven't noticed any
> slippage when changing gears, even in hard
launches. No fluid leaks
> either. Is the throwout bearing the
likely source of the noise? Is my
> clutch about to completely
fail?
>
> Jim
> 91-VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 01:05:29
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: stealth/3000 chat
Hey guys and gals...
There is a new IRC
server up and running for those of you who wish to have
"real time
chat"
The server address is:
irc.mdsog.net
port
6667
For those of you who don't know what IRC is, you might check
out
www.mirc.comBrad
Check
out my online store at:
http://www.turboimports.comCheck out
my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 01:21:16
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere
> First of all, I doubt Vineet had
an "improper" installation of the
DSM BOV.
> He is a pretty damn smart
guy. (I'll expect a check in the mail
Vineet) ;)
LOL! Thanks Curt :)
The bad check is in the mail!
The 1g DSM BOV is not improperly installed,
and my car is well tuned
for the mods it has. My intention was to find out if
the "stumble"
problem existed on the 3/S cars as it did on my 91 AWD talon. I
take
it it does exist, tune or no tune. Todd Day had a tech session at
the
last shootout, and he explained exactly WHY the stumble happens,
and
how there is no way around it with the stock ECU (and to an extent,
an
SAFC), however, a theory is just that.... I had to try it.
I was
just very surprised to see that Mike's SSBOV did not cause such
a stumble,
and the car felt very strong. I like the noise, but at this
point I could
care less. My car was slower, drivabilty suffered, and
after a while my car
was shooting fireballs. This morning I hooked it
back up the way it used to
be, and I'm happy again.
Crushing a 1g DSM bov is a very viable way to
get it to hold boost up
to about 21-22 psi. If it was good enough for Dave
Buschur to run 11's
with, it's good enough for me, hell, they use the same
BOV on the
lancers. There is a proper way to crush one, using a vacuum pump,
a
dime, and a vise. I had a friend also just "crush" one to where
he
thought it should be, and that is a NO-NO... as it caused the valve
not
to seat properly anymore. My BOV is uncrushed (when was the last
time you saw
9b's push 20+psi for longer than a nanosecond? :)
There is a DECEL AIR
adjustment for this purpose on the SAFC, to cut
the amount of fuel when
throttle is lifted after some high throttle
activity. However, this does not
work (to my knowledge) with our
Karman Vortex MAF units. If you had a hotwire
or VPC type setup, you
could get it to work no problem.
The ECU has
counted that air, it dumps an appropriate amount of fuel
to burn with that
air, but if you vent it out, all you are left with
is fuel... which you can
either SMELL when coming to a stop with the
windows open, or torch the
mustang that's trying to catch up to you
with cool fireballs (they start
blue, and then turn yellow!)
The ONLY thing I can think of why Mike's
venting BOV car works, while
mine doesn't (after all, a BOV is a BOV)... is
that his doesn't let
all the air out (bad for the turbo's?). That would not
be a good
thing... unless it gives him an excuse to upgrade to 15g's :)
(Nancy,
I didn't say that! :)
PS: I don't see how I could "tune" the
car any different with what I
have, and venting... got any
suggestions?
PPS: I made a camaro owner cry today... 3 stoplights... 3
beatings
(though he "blew" past me... at about 15 over the speed limit,
at
which point I had slowed down :)
Vineet Singh - Ai-uuuuu-kaaaayyy!
(StreetFighter fireball thing)
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 09:40:52
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere
> If you had a hotwire or VPC type
setup, you could
> get it to work no problem.
Actually only the VPC
will allow you to retain correct fuel delivery. The
ARC-2 and other
hotwire style MAFs (TRE-MASC?) still measure flow before the
turbos, you need
something that measures the flow in the intake after the
BOV inlet to
determine how much air is still making its way into the motor.
The only
device I'm aware of that does that is the VPC.
I suppose it could be
possible to use a flow-through hotwire meter somewhere
after the exit for the
BOV in the Y-pipe and maybe get decent readings, but
the wire will probably
get oily in a hurry, requiring periodic cleaning with
a cotton swab and
alcohol. Overall, I don't think it is worth all the
hassle.
Feeding the air back into the intake is perfectly viable, and I
couldn't care
less about the "sound" of my BOV. Nobody's gonna hear it
anyway because
they are so far behind me. ;-) The DSM valve with the
ARC-2's
open MAF and HUGE K&N makes plenty of swooshing sounds.
My
Blitz-SSBOV is sitting in the bottom of my race box, and I'm pretty sure
its
gonna stay there. Oh, it works great as long as you tune it so
tight
that it doesn't let much air out - defeating the purpose of putting on
a BOV
in the first place.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 11:44:57
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere
Thanks Vineet and Matt for further
explaining what I was trying to say. I
know the SAFC takes the ECU
signals and modifies them for fuel delivery.
That is why the SAFC will
still have the problem of stumbling when venting
to atmosphere with a
BOV. The VPC replaces the ECU as far as fuel delivery,
so that is why
the VPC will not produce the stumbling problem.
Matt, how does the ARC-2
work?? I thought it was more like the VPC?? Or
does it intercept
the ECU signals like the SAFC??
Vineet, I think on Mike Murray's car, he
is venting enough air back into the
intake so he doesn't see the stumbling
problem. Doesn't the Blitz SSBOV
hook up in conjunction with the stock
one??
Maybe someone needs to develop a BOV that can be changed from the
cockpit.
When your tooling around town, venting most of the air back
into the intake.
Then when that Rustang gets next to you at the
stoplight, switch the BOV
over to vent all to atmosphere. Vineet, you
want to work on this project??
:)
Venting to atmosphere has the
advantage when drag racing, because you'll be
getting cooler air from the
intake. As opposed to venting back into the
intake where your
reintroducing the hotter air that is coming from the BOV.
Some people
also say that the turbos spool quicker when venting to
atmospere. But
I'm not sure on that one.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>
> >
If you had a hotwire or VPC type setup, you could
> > get it to work no
problem.
>
>Actually only the VPC will allow you to retain correct
fuel delivery. The
>ARC-2 and other hotwire style MAFs (TRE-MASC?)
still measure flow before
>the
>turbos, you need something that
measures the flow in the intake after the
>BOV inlet to determine how much
air is still making its way into the motor.
>The only device I'm aware of
that does that is the
VPC.
>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 13:17:43
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere
> Thanks Vineet and Matt for further
explaining what I was
> trying to say. I know the SAFC takes the ECU
signals
> and modifies them for fuel delivery. That is why
the
> SAFC will still have the problem of stumbling when
> venting
to atmosphere with a BOV. The VPC replaces
> the ECU as far as fuel
delivery, so that is why the
> VPC will not produce the stumbling
problem.
Actually none of these solutions replaces the ECU for fuel
delivery. What
they do is to take an airflow signal (either from the
factory Karman-Vortex
airflow meter or a hotwire meter) or create a new
airflow signal (VPC).
That signal is then processed by the SAFC/ARC2/VPC by
reducing the signal to
show less airflow (assuming you are using larger
injectors) and then it is
converted back into a Karman frequency-based signal
and fed into the ECU.
The ECU is still doing ALL the fuel control work, only
it sees a different,
lower, input signal.
> Matt, how does the
ARC-2 work?? I thought it was more
> like the VPC?? Or does it
intercept the ECU signals
> like the SAFC??
They don't intercept
the ECU signals, but rather the airflow meter signals
and modify those then
feed the resultant signal to the ECU.
> Venting to atmosphere has the
advantage when drag racing,
> because you'll be getting cooler air from
the intake. As
> opposed to venting back into the intake where
your
> reintroducing the hotter air that is coming from the
>
BOV.
Actually, the air that goes through the BOV and back into the
intake is
cooler than ambient because it decreases in pressure as it leaves
the BOV.
That's better* air than sucking in new air through the intake and
you don't
want to discard it unless you get more gain via some other
reason. The
advantage is that one that vents to atmosphere typically
has a larger
discharge pipe and has less resistance to the flow of air so the
turbos can
continue spinning easier so you are back on the boost a little
quicker after
your shift.
> Some people also say that the turbos
spool quicker when
> venting to atmospere. But I'm not sure on that
one.
They should spool quicker, provided that you have the BOV spring set
light
enough to keep the pressure in the Y-pipe down so the turbos continue
to
spin quickly. If you have the spring set tightly to keep the fuel
mixture
nominal so the car doesn't stall, you are probably negating a large
part of
the benefits of venting to atmosphere anyways.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 15:02:35
-0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bozz
Speed Chromoly Flywheels for Sale
Previous buyer could not take his, so
now that both are in my hands, I'm
advertising these.
Bozz Speed
Chrome-Moly Flywheels for 3000 VR4/Stealth TwinTurbo for
sale; weigh
~12
lbs. Available for immediate shipping. $750 new back in the
day,
if you could
actually get one! Now, from Japan, good luck on
availability and price
new...
1 Brand New!
1 Used, I would turn it
down before using it next.
Email me privately with offers.
Jack
Tertadian
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 20:29:10
GMT
From: "Ryan Meador" <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV
I've read the whole thread on the BOV's but am still confused
as to the best
bang for the buck. Will the Mitsu 1G BOV work better than my
stock BOV, yet
not have the stalling problems if I continue to vent back
into the intake?
Realistically, do the expensive ones work any better than
ours or the 1G's?
Someone give it to me in a nutshell. Thanks!
-Ryan
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 15:42:27
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV
> I've read the whole thread on the BOV's but am
still
> confused as to the best bang for the buck. Will the
> Mitsu
1G BOV work better than my stock BOV, yet not
> have the stalling problems
if I continue to vent back
> into the intake? Realistically, do the
expensive
> ones work any better than ours or the 1G's?
> Someone
give it to me in a nutshell. Thanks! -Ryan
1G DSM valve:
Easily
obtained from DSM vendors with the adaptor that will work for
our
cars.
Completely stock-quality drivability.
Holds boost better than
the stock valve.
Relatively cheap ($130 at
http://www.extrememotorsports.com).
Non-adjustable,
except by carefully crushing and measuring with vacuum pump.
Blitz
SSBOV:
Expen$ive - ($299 at
http://www.dynamicracing1.com).
Sounds
good, if you like scaring people on the sidewalk.
Can vent large amounts of
air out, preserving turbo spool.
No guarantee of good drivability when
shifting or idling.
Stock valve stays in the loop, unless you modify the
intake and SSBOV kit.
Adjustable spring tension.
HKS
BOV:
Similar to Blitz, but gets rid of stock valve if I remember
right.
Expen$ive - ($299 at
http://www.dynamicracing1.com).
GReddy
Type-S BOV:
Adjustable tension.
Vents back into intake, preserving
stock drivability.
Same sound as DSM BOV.
Expen$ive - ($299 at
http://www.dynamicracing1.com).
Requires
DSM-type adapter flange.
I didn't do much "shopping around" on the
prices, so you might find them for
a little less, but I don't think you'll
see the non-DSM valves for anywhere
near the same price, at least not for a
new one.
If you want the Blitz one, I'll sell you mine for $150.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:47:48
+1200
From: Kevin Clark <
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: A newbie's first mod
> I've never been a "car guy", but
thanks to this car,
> and this way over my head list, I think things
are
> going to change.
The best way to learn is to tinker a little
:)
As far as other things to try goes, you may want to have a
look at
John Adams' page if you have not already done so:
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
(not sure I like
the new layout, but the items of interest are VR4 Mods,
and
the Repair Section - selected from the lefthand frame).
I also
have a small manual (one page) that can be found at
http://beam.to/GTO_Manual, and if you
follow the Web ring
you are bound to find a few others.
> No one
ever answered my question about my sunroof... It
> creaks over
bumps and when taking turns at decent speeds.
> Is this normal?
Could it be stress related, or is it just
> misaligned? Any help
would be appreciated.
I do not think many people have a sunroof. I
doubt if the
creaking is normal, and I would say it is stress
related.
Probably something no quite sitting right, possibly a
little
tight ?
Cheers,
Kevin.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:38:57
-0400
From: "Heikki Pikkujamsa" <
hpikkujamsa@compuserve.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV
> I've read the whole thread on the BOV's but am
still
> confused as to the best bang for the buck. Will the
> Mitsu
1G BOV work better than my stock BOV, yet not
> have the stalling problems
if I continue to vent back
> into the intake? Realistically, do the
expensive
> ones work any better than ours or the 1G's?
> Someone
give it to me in a nutshell. Thanks! -Ryan
One of the best deals is
OEM Saab 9000 BOV. It is manufactured by Bosch,
holds boost up to 1.4bar
(20psi)and cost you around $30-$40 from you local
Saab dealer. It is commonly
used in various rally and race cars in Europe
and works well in our cars too.
The inlet and outlet sizes are bit smaller
than ours but it can be fitted to
work with OEM hoses. I have one laying
around somewhere in case you're
interested. Drawbacks, does not have
adjustability and it is not chrome or
anything like that. It sounds very
good though when
shifting.
Heikki
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 14:42:57
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: New Maintenance Web Pages
I've finally created the web pages I've
been meaning to make for several
months now... This site isn't
super-fast, but hey, it's free. Bob's going
to put this up on the
Team3S webpage in a bit. The pictures on the pages
are relatively
small, but you can click them to get a larger image.
Changing the
Spark Plugs and Checking Compression on a Mitsubishi 3000GT or
Dodge
Stealth
http://www.crosswinds.net/~erikgross/3000GT/SparkPlugs/PlugChange.htmlChanging
the Fuel Filter on a 3000GT
http://www.crosswinds.net/~erikgross/3000GT/FuelFilter/ChangeFuelFilter.htmlEnjoy!
-
--Erik
P.S. Sorry about the ZIP attachment I sent out last week - I
attached it as
a tiny JPG, but evidently they've rigged the mail servers here
to ZIP all
attachments (argh). Guess it'll be web pages from now
on...
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 72,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV
CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
68,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 16:14:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Polyurethane bushings
Hi All,
I got in contact with Energy
Suspension in prototyping
polyurethane bushings for the 3S. They might
be
interested. I will update the latest as soon as their
head of
engineering gets back from vacation next week.
A few questions:
1)
Are the parts the same in all years and models?
2) They are located in
the 949 area code. They will
need a 3S for a minimum of 10days.
Any volunteers?
Mine is my daily driver.. so.. hmm.. wana pitch in for
me
a rent a Geo Metro?? =)
/George
'92 RT
TT
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 18:38:54
-0500
From: Bob <
r4381576@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL: ABS pump won't shut off
Help!!!
I
got in my car this morning after having to leave the poor
baby outside a
night and the ANTILOCK light (for ABS
brakes) came on right after starting
the engine, went off
a second and stayed on. When I got to work and
turned
off the car I noticed what I was told by a service mechanic
was
probably the ABS pump motor running. I FINALLY
figured out when I
got home tonight (I disconnected the
battery at work with the only one tool I
had) that I needed
to TAKE OUT THE 2 BOLTS to the OTHER (motor relay)
fuse
and then with the fuse out the pump turned off. Geez!!!
I guess
that is some type of safety thing?
1.) Now my radio needs some kind of
code from disconnecting
the battery and I have no idea what the factory one
is.
Well, the Dealer
service guy says the ABS pump is not covered
under my
extended warranty and the pump must just be replaced,
over
$3,000 !!!!!!!!!!!!! I think I will get real used to
the
ANTILOCK light on in my car.
2.) Any suggestions other than to go
to junkyards?
He says the pump can't be partially replaced (is it a
sealed
unit).
3.) I assume I'm not going to start any electrical
fires by
tightening the fuse bolts with the 60amp fuse
I took out and leaving it that
way without the fuse?
Thanks much in
advance guys. If you can
reply to all I will also get the
responses at work tomorrow and it will save
me having
to wait until I get home to download the DIGEST.
Bob
1994
3000gt SL
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:12:13
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Polyurethane bushings
George
I think they're in San Juan or San
Clemente ----Depending on when it
needs to be done my car could be made
available.
Bushings are high on my wish list.
Jim
berry
=============================================
From: George Kuo
<
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Polyurethane bushings
> Hi All,
>
> I got in
contact with Energy Suspension in prototyping
> polyurethane bushings for
the 3S. They might be
> interested. I will update the latest
as soon as their
> head of engineering gets back from vacation next
week.
>
> A few questions:
>
> 1) Are the parts the
same in all years and models?
>
> 2) They are located in the 949
area code. They will
> need a 3S for a minimum of 10days. Any
volunteers?
> Mine is my daily driver.. so.. hmm.. wana pitch in
for
> me a rent a Geo Metro?? =)
>
> /George
> '92 RT
TT
>
> __________________________________________________
>
Do You Yahoo!?
> Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
>
http://invites.yahoo.com/>
>
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:18:32
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
1994 3000gt SL: ABS pump won't shut off
The problem is more
than likely the ABS pump relay --- not the
pump itself. There is a relay on
top of the pump assembly under the
fender. I'm told you need to remove the
wheel well liners to get at
the relay. Don't buy a pump untill you check the
relay.
Jim
berry
========================================
> Help!!!
> I got
in my car this morning after having to leave the poor
> baby outside a
night and the ANTILOCK light (for ABS
> brakes) came on right after
starting the engine, went off
> a second and stayed on. When I got
to work and turned
> off the car I noticed what I was told by a service
mechanic
> was probably the ABS pump motor running. I
FINALLY
> figured out when I got home tonight (I disconnected the
>
battery at work with the only one tool I had) that I needed
> to TAKE OUT
THE 2 BOLTS to the OTHER (motor relay)
> fuse and then with the fuse out
the pump turned off. Geez!!!
> I guess that is some type of
safety thing?
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 17:43:04
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL: ABS pump won't shut off
In fact,
I think someone mentioned that you can pull the relay to stop it
from
continuously running. Also I believe they said you can get the
relay at Radio
Shack for a lot less money than the dealer. Sorry I'm
not definate, but it may
be worth checking out.
> The problem is
more than likely the ABS pump relay --- not the
> pump itself. There is a
relay on top of the pump assembly under the
> fender. I'm told you need to
remove the wheel well liners to get at
> the relay. Don't buy a pump
untill you check the relay.
>
> Jim berry
>
========================================
> > Help!!!
> > I got
in my car this morning after having to leave the poor
> > baby outside
a night and the ANTILOCK light (for ABS
> > brakes) came on right after
starting the engine, went off
> > a second and stayed on. When I
got to work and turned
> > off the car I noticed what I was told by a
service mechanic
> > was probably the ABS pump motor
running. I FINALLY
> > figured out when I got home tonight
(I disconnected the
> > battery at work with the only one tool I had)
that I needed
> > to TAKE OUT THE 2 BOLTS to the OTHER (motor
relay)
> > fuse and then with the fuse out the pump turned
off. Geez!!!
> > I guess that is some type of safety
thing?
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 17:57:15
-0700
From: Jim Watkins <
jwatkins@mails.terayon.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL: ABS pump won't shut off
The code
is on the top left of the radio unit. You have to pry off the
trim
panel and use a flashlight to see the numbers. Then go to the
manual to
see which radio buttons to use to enter the
code.
Jim
91-VR4
> 1.) Now my radio needs some kind of
code from disconnecting
> the battery and I have no idea what the factory
one is.
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:46:04
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL: ABS pump won't shut off
I will also
add that about once every 6 months my '93 does this stupid crap
with the ABS
Pump running and doing crazy shit.
I pull the fuse for it for aboiut4
hours, and when I put it back in,
everything is always fine for about 6 more
months...
I really don't care whether it works or not, but I figure if it
is that easy
of a fiz, then so be it... I'll keep doing it until the
"fix" ceases to
work, then I will disconenct the ABS pump
altogether...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 7:43 PM
To: Jim
Berry
Cc: Bob;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
robert_mengler@notes.maxus.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL: ABS pump won't shut off
In fact, I think
someone mentioned that you can pull the relay to stop it
from
continuously
running. Also I believe they said you can get the relay
at
Radio
Shack for a lot less money than the dealer. Sorry I'm not
definate, but it
may
be worth checking out.
> The problem is
more than likely the ABS pump relay --- not the
> pump itself. There is a
relay on top of the pump assembly under the
> fender. I'm told you need to
remove the wheel well liners to get at
> the relay. Don't buy a pump
untill you check the
relay.
>
> Jim
berry
> ========================================
> >
Help!!!
> > I got in my car this morning after having to leave the
poor
> > baby outside a night and the ANTILOCK light (for ABS
>
> brakes) came on right after starting the engine, went off
> > a
second and stayed on. When I got to work and turned
> > off the
car I noticed what I was told by a service mechanic
> > was probably
the ABS pump motor running. I FINALLY
> > figured out when
I got home tonight (I disconnected the
> > battery at work with the
only one tool I had) that I needed
> > to TAKE OUT THE 2 BOLTS to the
OTHER (motor relay)
> > fuse and then with the fuse out the pump turned
off. Geez!!!
> > I guess that is some type of safety
thing?
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 23:22:58
-0400
From: "Ukyo[T]" <
ukyo@avana.net>
Subject: Team3S: Oil
gauge
Well, seeing as my first attempt to post this ended in
a
bounce (and now that I have calmned down a bit), I'll
give it another
try:
About two weeks ago I was traveling on the highway at
average
speed (65 - 80mph) when my oil pressure
gauge bottomed out. I was just
about to pull off the road
when it sprang back to life. I kept my eye
on it, and it
kept a decent reading up until I exited the highway.
As
I slowed for the red light, the gauge bottomed out again,
but bounced
back up a little above the lowest mark.
Being the repair savvy guy I am, I
gently hit the dash
above the gauge, and it bounced back up to the
safe
zone. I kept my eye on the gauge as I continued to work.
It
fluctuated between the lowest safe area, and about a
quarter of an inch above
the lowest mark. I made it to
work, and decided to check the oil before
I left. The oil
was fine, so I thought maybe the gauge was going
out.
When I cranked the car, the gauge sprang to life, and
has been
fine...
Yesterday when I was putting in the K&N Filtercharger
I
noticed some oil around the top of the oil filter. I put
two and
two together, and figured that the filter was
loose, and therefore was
causing the gauge to read
odd levels. I decided not to drive it to work
the next day.
When I got home from work today, I pulled the car in
to
the garage, jacked it up, and tightend the oil filter. It
was a
little loose, so I assumed the problem was solved.
Thing is, when I cranked
the car back up, the gauge
was bottomed out, and never rose... never
even
moved. In a panic I took the car back over to the dealer.
It's
under warranty, so I hope it will be a quick fix. My
question is, does
this sound like a bad gauge to you
guys, or do you think there is something
wrong with a
seal or sensor? I triple checked the oil, and it's still
at
the same level it was at two weeks ago.
Sorry to be so long winded,
but I wanted to get as
many details in as I could.
- --Travis
'97
3000GT (Base + K&N Filtercharger / Red)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 23:03:17
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL: ABS pump won't shut off
> The
code is on the top left of the radio unit. You
> have to pry off the
trim panel and use a flashlight
> to see the numbers. Then go to the
manual to see
> which radio buttons to use to enter the
code.
Actually, the serial number for the radio is on that tag. You
can take that
information to the dealer and they should be able to pull up
the radio code
on their computer.
Wouldn't really be an anti-theft
code if it was printed right on the radio.
;-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 23:12:02
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil gauge
> My question is, does this sound like a
bad gauge to
> you guys, or do you think there is something wrong
>
with a seal or sensor? I triple checked the oil,
> and it's still at
the same level it was at two
> weeks ago.
> --Travis
> '97
3000GT (Base + K&N Filtercharger / Red)
Hmmm... Sounds
electrical to me. The usual place for things to go awry is
with the
electrical connection to the oil pressure sensor which is located
on/near the
oil filter setup. Should be a slide-on connector. I'd take a
look
at that first, as it could've just been coincidence that the gauge
started
working when you whacked the dash.
The other possibility is that there is
a loose connection on the gauge
itself - which would suck because it is
difficult to get access behind the
gauge cluster to test things
out.
Since you have a '97, is it still in warranty? Should
definitely be covered
if you are in the 3/36 portion of the warranty
still. Sometimes Mitsubishi
will make exceptions on cars that are
slightly out of warranty and still
cover service if the dealer is willing to
"make a case for you".
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:16:13
-0400
From:
ukyo@avana.netSubject:
RE: Team3S: Oil gauge
Quoting "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>:
>
Hmmm... Sounds electrical to me. The usual place
for things to
go awry is
> with the electrical connection to the oil pressure
sensor
which is located
> on/near the oil filter setup. Should be a
slide-on
connector. I'd take a
> look at that first, as it
could've just been
coincidence that the gauge
> started working when
you whacked the dash.
This sounds like a very possible cause. I
figured
there had to be something that I accidently knocked
loose when I
either changed the oil, or when I
tightened the filter. I probably
finished knocking the
sensor loose when I was trying to wipe the excess oil
from the filter after I tightened it. That would
explain why it
totally stopped working afterwards.
But it did come back to life for a
few seconds on the
way back to the dealer. I put the car in neutral
and
revved it up a little. The gauge rose for a second,
then
bottomed out again. Could be a loose connection,
and that would
perfectly explain the on / off
operation.
> The other
possibility is that there is a loose
connection on the gauge
> itself
- which would suck because it is difficult to
get access behind the
>
gauge cluster to test things out.
This was my first guess, but seeing as
the gauge
magically started acting up after I changed the oil, I
think
it has more to do with me tinkering around with
the oil filter. Of
course, it could just be the
gauge. Stranger things have
happened.
> Since you have a '97, is it still in warranty?
Should definitely be
> covered
> if you are in the 3/36 portion
of the warranty
still. Sometimes Mitsubishi
> will make
exceptions on cars that are slightly out of
warranty and still
> cover
service if the dealer is willing to "make a
case for you".
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
Unfortunately I had to buy the car
used. The good
thing is I purchased an extended used car warranty with
it. Bad thing is I have to pay up to but no more than
$100 for any
repairs. Looks like a loose wire is going
to cost me between $65 and
$100. It's OK though. I'll
just get them to do my 60K service
for $100. That will
even the score.
Thanks for the help,
Matt. And so I don't clog up the
list replying to everyone who offered
help, thanks are
on order to Rich, Greg, Cody, and anyone else who took
the time to read the post. I really appreciate the
help, and you
guys putting up with my newbie questions.
- --Travis
'92 Geo Storm
(Base / Red)
I *REALLY* miss my 3000GT...
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#229
*********************