team3s            Thursday, August 10 2000            Volume 01 : Number 229




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Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 00:39:34 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clattering Clutch

It depends on what the noise sounds like and how severe it is. If noise
sounds like BBs being tossed around in a can, it's probably noise coming
from the input shaft bearing on the tranny. A throw out bearing will
make noise when the clutch pedal is depressed, NOT when the clutch is
engaged. If it's a ticking sound that follows the RPMs and isn't always
there it's probably the throw out bearing sticking on the sleeve of the
input shaft (the ticking is caused when the throw out bearing sticks on
the input shaft sleeve and the clock spring slaps against the bearing
and the fork as it tries to drag the throw out bearing back).

If it's the first type of noise (BB sound), it depends on how loud it
is. If it's severe it means your tranny's bearings are on the way out.
If it's the occasional repetetive clicking, eventually the pressure
plate and throw out bearing will need to be replaced...I speak from
experience here as I had to have mine replaced 2 weeks ago.

A BIG THANKS goes out to Templeton Dodge in Vienna, VA for not lubing
the input shaft sleeve AT ALL when they installed the clutch with the
new tranny 2 years ago....not to mention the fact that they stripped the
threads on the tranny mounts.

Good Luck,

Bill Wagner
Jim Watkins wrote:
>
> Over time, I have noticed a clattering associated with the clutch pedal
> out after starting my 91-VR4.  If the clutch pedal is pushed in, the
> clattering stops.  Pedal travel seems normal and I haven't noticed any
> slippage when changing gears, even in hard launches.  No fluid leaks
> either.  Is the throwout bearing the likely source of the noise?  Is my
> clutch about to completely fail?
>
> Jim
> 91-VR4
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 01:05:29 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: stealth/3000 chat

Hey guys and gals...

There is a new IRC server up and running for those of you who wish to have
"real time chat"

The server address is:

irc.mdsog.net
port 6667


For those of you who don't know what IRC is, you might check out
www.mirc.com


Brad
Check out my online store at: http://www.turboimports.com
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 01:21:16 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere

> First of all, I doubt Vineet had an "improper" installation of the
DSM BOV.
> He is a pretty damn smart guy. (I'll expect a check in the mail
Vineet) ;)

LOL! Thanks Curt :) The bad check is in the mail!

The 1g DSM BOV is not improperly installed, and my car is well tuned
for the mods it has. My intention was to find out if the "stumble"
problem existed on the 3/S cars as it did on my 91 AWD talon. I take
it it does exist, tune or no tune. Todd Day had a tech session at the
last shootout, and he explained exactly WHY the stumble happens, and
how there is no way around it with the stock ECU (and to an extent, an
SAFC), however, a theory is just that.... I had to try it.

I was just very surprised to see that Mike's SSBOV did not cause such
a stumble, and the car felt very strong. I like the noise, but at this
point I could care less. My car was slower, drivabilty suffered, and
after a while my car was shooting fireballs. This morning I hooked it
back up the way it used to be, and I'm happy again.

Crushing a 1g DSM bov is a very viable way to get it to hold boost up
to about 21-22 psi. If it was good enough for Dave Buschur to run 11's
with, it's good enough for me, hell, they use the same BOV on the
lancers. There is a proper way to crush one, using a vacuum pump, a
dime, and a vise. I had a friend also just "crush" one to where he
thought it should be, and that is a NO-NO... as it caused the valve
not to seat properly anymore. My BOV is uncrushed (when was the last
time you saw 9b's push 20+psi for longer than a nanosecond? :)

There is a DECEL AIR adjustment for this purpose on the SAFC, to cut
the amount of fuel when throttle is lifted after some high throttle
activity. However, this does not work (to my knowledge) with our
Karman Vortex MAF units. If you had a hotwire or VPC type setup, you
could get it to work no problem.

The ECU has counted that air, it dumps an appropriate amount of fuel
to burn with that air, but if you vent it out, all you are left with
is fuel... which you can either SMELL when coming to a stop with the
windows open, or torch the mustang that's trying to catch up to you
with cool fireballs (they start blue, and then turn yellow!)

The ONLY thing I can think of why Mike's venting BOV car works, while
mine doesn't (after all, a BOV is a BOV)... is that his doesn't let
all the air out (bad for the turbo's?). That would not be a good
thing... unless it gives him an excuse to upgrade to 15g's :) (Nancy,
I didn't say that! :)

PS: I don't see how I could "tune" the car any different with what I
have, and venting... got any suggestions?

PPS: I made a camaro owner cry today... 3 stoplights... 3 beatings
(though he "blew" past me... at about 15 over the speed limit, at
which point I had slowed down :)

Vineet Singh - Ai-uuuuu-kaaaayyy! (StreetFighter fireball thing)
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S Service manuals on CDROM


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 09:40:52 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere

> If you had a hotwire or VPC type setup, you could
> get it to work no problem.

Actually only the VPC will allow you to retain correct fuel delivery.  The
ARC-2 and other hotwire style MAFs (TRE-MASC?) still measure flow before the
turbos, you need something that measures the flow in the intake after the
BOV inlet to determine how much air is still making its way into the motor.
The only device I'm aware of that does that is the VPC.

I suppose it could be possible to use a flow-through hotwire meter somewhere
after the exit for the BOV in the Y-pipe and maybe get decent readings, but
the wire will probably get oily in a hurry, requiring periodic cleaning with
a cotton swab and alcohol.  Overall, I don't think it is worth all the
hassle.  Feeding the air back into the intake is perfectly viable, and I
couldn't care less about the "sound" of my BOV.  Nobody's gonna hear it
anyway because they are so far behind me.  ;-)  The DSM valve with the
ARC-2's open MAF and HUGE K&N makes plenty of swooshing sounds.

My Blitz-SSBOV is sitting in the bottom of my race box, and I'm pretty sure
its gonna stay there.  Oh, it works great as long as you tune it so tight
that it doesn't let much air out - defeating the purpose of putting on a BOV
in the first place.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 11:44:57 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere

Thanks Vineet and Matt for further explaining what I was trying to say.  I
know the SAFC takes the ECU signals and modifies them for fuel delivery. 
That is why the SAFC will still have the problem of stumbling when venting
to atmosphere with a BOV.  The VPC replaces the ECU as far as fuel delivery,
so that is why the VPC will not produce the stumbling problem.

Matt, how does the ARC-2 work??  I thought it was more like the VPC??  Or
does it intercept the ECU signals like the SAFC??

Vineet, I think on Mike Murray's car, he is venting enough air back into the
intake so he doesn't see the stumbling problem.  Doesn't the Blitz SSBOV
hook up in conjunction with the stock one??

Maybe someone needs to develop a BOV that can be changed from the cockpit. 
When your tooling around town, venting most of the air back into the intake.
  Then when that Rustang gets next to you at the stoplight, switch the BOV
over to vent all to atmosphere.  Vineet, you want to work on this project?? 
:)

Venting to atmosphere has the advantage when drag racing, because you'll be
getting cooler air from the intake.  As opposed to venting back into the
intake where your reintroducing the hotter air that is coming from the BOV. 
Some people also say that the turbos spool quicker when venting to
atmospere.  But I'm not sure on that one.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org


>
> > If you had a hotwire or VPC type setup, you could
> > get it to work no problem.
>
>Actually only the VPC will allow you to retain correct fuel delivery.  The
>ARC-2 and other hotwire style MAFs (TRE-MASC?) still measure flow before
>the
>turbos, you need something that measures the flow in the intake after the
>BOV inlet to determine how much air is still making its way into the motor.
>The only device I'm aware of that does that is the VPC.
>

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 13:17:43 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere

> Thanks Vineet and Matt for further explaining what I was
> trying to say.  I know the SAFC takes the ECU signals
> and modifies them for fuel delivery.  That is why the
> SAFC will still have the problem of stumbling when
> venting to atmosphere with a BOV.  The VPC replaces
> the ECU as far as fuel delivery, so that is why the
> VPC will not produce the stumbling problem.

Actually none of these solutions replaces the ECU for fuel delivery.  What
they do is to take an airflow signal (either from the factory Karman-Vortex
airflow meter or a hotwire meter) or create a new airflow signal (VPC).
That signal is then processed by the SAFC/ARC2/VPC by reducing the signal to
show less airflow (assuming you are using larger injectors) and then it is
converted back into a Karman frequency-based signal and fed into the ECU.
The ECU is still doing ALL the fuel control work, only it sees a different,
lower, input signal.

> Matt, how does the ARC-2 work??  I thought it was more
> like the VPC??  Or does it intercept the ECU signals
> like the SAFC??

They don't intercept the ECU signals, but rather the airflow meter signals
and modify those then feed the resultant signal to the ECU.

> Venting to atmosphere has the advantage when drag racing,
> because you'll be getting cooler air from the intake.  As
> opposed to venting back into the intake where your
> reintroducing the hotter air that is coming from the
> BOV. 

Actually, the air that goes through the BOV and back into the intake is
cooler than ambient because it decreases in pressure as it leaves the BOV.
That's better* air than sucking in new air through the intake and you don't
want to discard it unless you get more gain via some other reason.  The
advantage is that one that vents to atmosphere typically has a larger
discharge pipe and has less resistance to the flow of air so the turbos can
continue spinning easier so you are back on the boost a little quicker after
your shift.

> Some people also say that the turbos spool quicker when
> venting to atmospere.  But I'm not sure on that one.

They should spool quicker, provided that you have the BOV spring set light
enough to keep the pressure in the Y-pipe down so the turbos continue to
spin quickly.  If you have the spring set tightly to keep the fuel mixture
nominal so the car doesn't stall, you are probably negating a large part of
the benefits of venting to atmosphere anyways.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 15:02:35 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bozz Speed Chromoly Flywheels for Sale

Previous buyer could not take his, so now that both are in my hands, I'm
advertising these.
Bozz Speed Chrome-Moly Flywheels for 3000 VR4/Stealth TwinTurbo for
sale; weigh
~12 lbs.  Available for immediate shipping.  $750 new back in the day,
if you could
actually get one!  Now, from Japan, good luck on availability and price
new...

1 Brand New!
1 Used, I would turn it down before using it next.

Email me privately with offers.
Jack Tertadian


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 20:29:10 GMT
From: "Ryan Meador" <captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: BOV

I've read the whole thread on the BOV's but am still confused as to the best
bang for the buck. Will the Mitsu 1G BOV work better than my stock BOV, yet
not have the stalling problems if I continue to vent back into the intake?
Realistically, do the expensive ones work any better than ours or the 1G's?
Someone give it to me in a nutshell. Thanks! -Ryan

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 15:42:27 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BOV

> I've read the whole thread on the BOV's but am still
> confused as to the best bang for the buck. Will the
> Mitsu 1G BOV work better than my stock BOV, yet not
> have the stalling problems if I continue to vent back
> into the intake?  Realistically, do the expensive
> ones work any better than ours or the 1G's?
> Someone give it to me in a nutshell. Thanks! -Ryan

1G DSM valve:

Easily obtained from DSM vendors with the adaptor that will work for our
cars.
Completely stock-quality drivability.
Holds boost better than the stock valve.
Relatively cheap ($130 at http://www.extrememotorsports.com).
Non-adjustable, except by carefully crushing and measuring with vacuum pump.


Blitz SSBOV:

Expen$ive - ($299 at http://www.dynamicracing1.com).
Sounds good, if you like scaring people on the sidewalk.
Can vent large amounts of air out, preserving turbo spool.
No guarantee of good drivability when shifting or idling.
Stock valve stays in the loop, unless you modify the intake and SSBOV kit.
Adjustable spring tension.


HKS BOV:

Similar to Blitz, but gets rid of stock valve if I remember right.
Expen$ive - ($299 at http://www.dynamicracing1.com).


GReddy Type-S BOV:

Adjustable tension.
Vents back into intake, preserving stock drivability.
Same sound as DSM BOV.
Expen$ive - ($299 at http://www.dynamicracing1.com).
Requires DSM-type adapter flange.

I didn't do much "shopping around" on the prices, so you might find them for
a little less, but I don't think you'll see the non-DSM valves for anywhere
near the same price, at least not for a new one.

If you want the Blitz one, I'll sell you mine for $150.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:47:48 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Team3S: A newbie's first mod

> I've never been a "car guy", but thanks to this car,
> and this way over my head list, I think things are
> going to change.

The best way to learn is to tinker a little :)

As far as other things to try goes, you may want to have a
look at John Adams' page if you have not already done so:
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm (not sure I like
the new layout, but the items of interest are VR4 Mods, and
the Repair Section - selected from the lefthand frame).

I also have a small manual (one page) that can be found at
http://beam.to/GTO_Manual, and if you follow the Web ring
you are bound to find a few others.

> No one ever answered my question about my sunroof...  It
> creaks over bumps and when taking turns at decent speeds.
> Is this normal?  Could it be stress related, or is it just
> misaligned?  Any help would be appreciated.

I do not think many people have a sunroof.  I doubt if the
creaking is normal, and I would say it is stress related.
Probably something no quite sitting right, possibly a little
tight ?

Cheers,
Kevin.

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:38:57 -0400
From: "Heikki Pikkujamsa" <hpikkujamsa@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BOV

> I've read the whole thread on the BOV's but am still
> confused as to the best bang for the buck. Will the
> Mitsu 1G BOV work better than my stock BOV, yet not
> have the stalling problems if I continue to vent back
> into the intake?  Realistically, do the expensive
> ones work any better than ours or the 1G's?
> Someone give it to me in a nutshell. Thanks! -Ryan


One of the best deals is OEM Saab 9000 BOV. It is manufactured by Bosch,
holds boost up to 1.4bar (20psi)and cost you around $30-$40 from you local
Saab dealer. It is commonly used in various rally and race cars in Europe
and works well in our cars too. The inlet and outlet sizes are bit smaller
than ours but it can be fitted to work with OEM hoses. I have one laying
around somewhere in case you're interested. Drawbacks, does not have
adjustability and it is not chrome or anything like that. It sounds very
good though when shifting.

Heikki



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 14:42:57 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: New Maintenance Web Pages

I've finally created the web pages I've been meaning to make for several
months now...  This site isn't super-fast, but hey, it's free.  Bob's going
to put this up on the Team3S webpage in a bit.  The pictures on the pages
are relatively small, but you can click them to get a larger image.


Changing the Spark Plugs and Checking Compression on a Mitsubishi 3000GT or
Dodge Stealth
http://www.crosswinds.net/~erikgross/3000GT/SparkPlugs/PlugChange.html


Changing the Fuel Filter on a 3000GT
http://www.crosswinds.net/~erikgross/3000GT/FuelFilter/ChangeFuelFilter.html


Enjoy!
- --Erik

P.S.  Sorry about the ZIP attachment I sent out last week - I attached it as
a tiny JPG, but evidently they've rigged the mail servers here to ZIP all
attachments (argh).  Guess it'll be web pages from now on...

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          72,000 mi
   Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
   Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
   K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla               68,000mi
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 16:14:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Polyurethane bushings

Hi All,

I got in contact with Energy Suspension in prototyping
polyurethane bushings for the 3S.  They might be
interested.  I will update the latest as soon as their
head of engineering gets back from vacation next week.

A few questions:

1) Are the parts the same in all years and models?

2) They are located in the 949 area code.  They will
need a 3S for a minimum of 10days.  Any volunteers?
Mine is my daily driver.. so.. hmm.. wana pitch in for
me a rent a Geo Metro?? =)

/George
'92 RT TT

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 18:38:54 -0500
From: Bob <r4381576@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: 1994  3000gt SL:  ABS pump won't shut off

Help!!!
I got in my car this morning after having to leave the poor
baby outside a night and the ANTILOCK light (for ABS
brakes) came on right after starting the engine, went off
a second and stayed on.  When I got to work and turned
off the car I noticed what I was told by a service mechanic
was probably the ABS pump motor running.   I FINALLY
figured out when I got home tonight (I disconnected the
battery at work with the only one tool I had) that I needed
to TAKE OUT THE 2 BOLTS to the OTHER (motor relay)
fuse and then with the fuse out the pump turned off.   Geez!!!
I guess that is some type of safety thing?

1.) Now my radio needs some kind of code from disconnecting
the battery and I have no idea what the factory one is.

Well, the Dealer
service guy says the ABS pump is not covered under my
extended warranty and the pump must just be replaced,
over $3,000   !!!!!!!!!!!!!   I think I will get real used to the
ANTILOCK light on in my car.

2.) Any suggestions other than to go to junkyards?
He says the pump can't be partially replaced (is it a
sealed unit).

3.) I assume I'm not going to start any electrical
fires by tightening the fuse bolts with the 60amp fuse
I took out and leaving it that way without the fuse?

Thanks much in
advance guys.  If you can reply to all I will also get the
responses at work tomorrow and it will save me having
to wait until I get home to download the DIGEST.

Bob
1994 3000gt SL


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:12:13 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Polyurethane bushings

George
I think they're in San Juan or San Clemente ----Depending on when it
needs to be done my car could be made available.
Bushings are high on my wish list.

    Jim berry
=============================================
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>

Subject: Team3S: Polyurethane bushings


> Hi All,
>
> I got in contact with Energy Suspension in prototyping
> polyurethane bushings for the 3S.  They might be
> interested.  I will update the latest as soon as their
> head of engineering gets back from vacation next week.
>
> A few questions:
>
> 1) Are the parts the same in all years and models?
>
> 2) They are located in the 949 area code.  They will
> need a 3S for a minimum of 10days.  Any volunteers?
> Mine is my daily driver.. so.. hmm.. wana pitch in for
> me a rent a Geo Metro?? =)
>
> /George
> '92 RT TT
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
> http://invites.yahoo.com/
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:18:32 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1994  3000gt SL:  ABS pump won't shut off

The problem is more than likely the ABS pump relay --- not the
pump itself. There is a relay on top of the pump assembly under the
fender. I'm told you need to remove the wheel well liners to get at
the relay. Don't buy a pump untill you check the relay.

        Jim berry
========================================
> Help!!!
> I got in my car this morning after having to leave the poor
> baby outside a night and the ANTILOCK light (for ABS
> brakes) came on right after starting the engine, went off
> a second and stayed on.  When I got to work and turned
> off the car I noticed what I was told by a service mechanic
> was probably the ABS pump motor running.   I FINALLY
> figured out when I got home tonight (I disconnected the
> battery at work with the only one tool I had) that I needed
> to TAKE OUT THE 2 BOLTS to the OTHER (motor relay)
> fuse and then with the fuse out the pump turned off.   Geez!!!
> I guess that is some type of safety thing?
>



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 17:43:04 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1994  3000gt SL:  ABS pump won't shut off

In fact, I think someone mentioned that you can pull the relay to stop it from
continuously running.  Also I believe they said you can get the relay at Radio
Shack for a lot less money than the dealer.  Sorry I'm not definate, but it may
be worth checking out.

> The problem is more than likely the ABS pump relay --- not the
> pump itself. There is a relay on top of the pump assembly under the
> fender. I'm told you need to remove the wheel well liners to get at
> the relay. Don't buy a pump untill you check the relay.
>
>         Jim berry
> ========================================
> > Help!!!
> > I got in my car this morning after having to leave the poor
> > baby outside a night and the ANTILOCK light (for ABS
> > brakes) came on right after starting the engine, went off
> > a second and stayed on.  When I got to work and turned
> > off the car I noticed what I was told by a service mechanic
> > was probably the ABS pump motor running.   I FINALLY
> > figured out when I got home tonight (I disconnected the
> > battery at work with the only one tool I had) that I needed
> > to TAKE OUT THE 2 BOLTS to the OTHER (motor relay)
> > fuse and then with the fuse out the pump turned off.   Geez!!!
> > I guess that is some type of safety thing?
> >
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 17:57:15 -0700
From: Jim Watkins <jwatkins@mails.terayon.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1994  3000gt SL:  ABS pump won't shut off

The code is on the top left of the radio unit.  You have to pry off the
trim panel and use a flashlight to see the numbers.  Then go to the
manual to see which radio buttons to use to enter the code.

Jim
91-VR4


> 1.) Now my radio needs some kind of code from disconnecting
> the battery and I have no idea what the factory one is.
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:46:04 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1994  3000gt SL:  ABS pump won't shut off

I will also add that about once every 6 months my '93 does this stupid crap
with the ABS Pump running and doing crazy shit.

I pull the fuse for it for aboiut4 hours, and when I put it back in,
everything is always fine for about 6 more months...

I really don't care whether it works or not, but I figure if it is that easy
of a fiz, then so be it...  I'll keep doing it until the "fix" ceases to
work, then I will disconenct the ABS pump altogether...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 7:43 PM
To: Jim Berry
Cc: Bob; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; robert_mengler@notes.maxus.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL: ABS pump won't shut off


In fact, I think someone mentioned that you can pull the relay to stop it
from
continuously running.  Also I believe they said you can get the relay at
Radio
Shack for a lot less money than the dealer.  Sorry I'm not definate, but it
may
be worth checking out.

> The problem is more than likely the ABS pump relay --- not the
> pump itself. There is a relay on top of the pump assembly under the
> fender. I'm told you need to remove the wheel well liners to get at
> the relay. Don't buy a pump untill you check the relay.
>
>         Jim berry
> ========================================
> > Help!!!
> > I got in my car this morning after having to leave the poor
> > baby outside a night and the ANTILOCK light (for ABS
> > brakes) came on right after starting the engine, went off
> > a second and stayed on.  When I got to work and turned
> > off the car I noticed what I was told by a service mechanic
> > was probably the ABS pump motor running.   I FINALLY
> > figured out when I got home tonight (I disconnected the
> > battery at work with the only one tool I had) that I needed
> > to TAKE OUT THE 2 BOLTS to the OTHER (motor relay)
> > fuse and then with the fuse out the pump turned off.   Geez!!!
> > I guess that is some type of safety thing?
> >
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 23:22:58 -0400
From: "Ukyo[T]" <ukyo@avana.net>
Subject: Team3S: Oil gauge 

Well, seeing as my first attempt to post this ended in a
bounce (and now that I have calmned down a bit), I'll
give it another try:

About two weeks ago I was traveling on the highway at
average speed (65 - 80mph) when my oil pressure
gauge bottomed out.  I was just about to pull off the road
when it sprang back to life.  I kept my eye on it, and it
kept a decent reading up until I exited the highway.  As
I slowed for the red light, the gauge bottomed out again,
but bounced back up a little above the lowest mark.
Being the repair savvy guy I am, I gently hit the dash
above the gauge, and it bounced back up to the safe
zone.  I kept my eye on the gauge as I continued to work.
It fluctuated between the lowest safe area, and about a
quarter of an inch above the lowest mark.  I made it to
work, and decided to check the oil before I left.  The oil
was fine, so I thought maybe the gauge was going out.
When I cranked the car, the gauge sprang to life, and
has been fine...

Yesterday when I was putting in the K&N Filtercharger I
noticed some oil around the top of the oil filter.  I put
two and two together, and figured that the filter was
loose, and therefore was causing the gauge to read
odd levels.  I decided not to drive it to work the next day.

When I got home from work today, I pulled the car in to
the garage, jacked it up, and tightend the oil filter.  It
was a little loose, so I assumed the problem was solved.
Thing is, when I cranked the car back up, the gauge
was bottomed out, and never rose... never even
moved.  In a panic I took the car back over to the dealer.
It's under warranty, so I hope it will be a quick fix.  My
question is, does this sound like a bad gauge to you
guys, or do you think there is something wrong with a
seal or sensor?  I triple checked the oil, and it's still at
the same level it was at two weeks ago.

Sorry to be so long winded, but I wanted to get as
many details in as I could.

- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N Filtercharger / Red)



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 23:03:17 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1994  3000gt SL:  ABS pump won't shut off

> The code is on the top left of the radio unit.  You
> have to pry off the trim panel and use a flashlight
> to see the numbers.  Then go to the manual to see
> which radio buttons to use to enter the code.

Actually, the serial number for the radio is on that tag.  You can take that
information to the dealer and they should be able to pull up the radio code
on their computer.

Wouldn't really be an anti-theft code if it was printed right on the radio.
;-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 23:12:02 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil gauge 

> My question is, does this sound like a bad gauge to
> you guys, or do you think there is something wrong
> with a seal or sensor?  I triple checked the oil,
> and it's still at the same level it was at two
> weeks ago.

> --Travis
> '97 3000GT (Base + K&N Filtercharger / Red)

Hmmm...  Sounds electrical to me.  The usual place for things to go awry is
with the electrical connection to the oil pressure sensor which is located
on/near the oil filter setup.  Should be a slide-on connector.  I'd take a
look at that first, as it could've just been coincidence that the gauge
started working when you whacked the dash.

The other possibility is that there is a loose connection on the gauge
itself - which would suck because it is difficult to get access behind the
gauge cluster to test things out.

Since you have a '97, is it still in warranty?  Should definitely be covered
if you are in the 3/36 portion of the warranty still.  Sometimes Mitsubishi
will make exceptions on cars that are slightly out of warranty and still
cover service if the dealer is willing to "make a case for you".

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:16:13 -0400
From: ukyo@avana.net
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil gauge

Quoting "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>:

> Hmmm...  Sounds electrical to me.  The usual place
for things to go awry is
> with the electrical connection to the oil pressure
sensor which is located
> on/near the oil filter setup.  Should be a slide-on
connector.  I'd take a
> look at that first, as it could've just been
coincidence that the gauge
> started working when you whacked the dash.

This sounds like a very possible cause.  I figured
there had to be something that I accidently knocked
loose when I either changed the oil, or when I
tightened the filter.  I probably finished knocking the
sensor loose when I was trying to wipe the excess oil
from the filter after I tightened it.  That would
explain why it totally stopped working afterwards.

But it did come back to life for a few seconds on the
way back to the dealer.  I put the car in neutral and
revved it up a little.  The gauge rose for a second,
then bottomed out again.  Could be a loose connection,
and that would perfectly explain the on / off
operation. 

> The other possibility is that there is a loose
connection on the gauge
> itself - which would suck because it is difficult to
get access behind the
> gauge cluster to test things out.

This was my first guess, but seeing as the gauge
magically started acting up after I changed the oil, I
think it has more to do with me tinkering around with
the oil filter.  Of course, it could just be the
gauge.  Stranger things have happened.

> Since you have a '97, is it still in warranty? 
Should definitely be
> covered
> if you are in the 3/36 portion of the warranty
still.  Sometimes Mitsubishi
> will make exceptions on cars that are slightly out of
warranty and still
> cover service if the dealer is willing to "make a
case for you".
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

Unfortunately I had to buy the car used.  The good
thing is I purchased an extended used car warranty with
it.  Bad thing is I have to pay up to but no more than
$100 for any repairs.  Looks like a loose wire is going
to cost me between $65 and $100.  It's OK though.  I'll
just get them to do my 60K service for $100.  That will
even the score.

Thanks for the help, Matt.  And so I don't clog up the
list replying to everyone who offered help, thanks are
on order to Rich, Greg, Cody, and anyone else who took
the time to read the post.  I really appreciate the
help, and you guys putting up with my newbie questions.

- --Travis
'92 Geo Storm (Base / Red)
I *REALLY* miss my 3000GT...


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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