team3s
Tuesday, August 8
2000
Volume 01 : Number
228
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Aug 2000 23:56:58 EDT
From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.comSubject:
=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20Team3S:=20My=20new=203S=20email=20=E0ddr=E8?=
=?ISO-8859-1?Q?ss=20and=20venting=20to=20atmosphere.?=
In a message dated
8/7/00 7:54:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
beking@home.com writes:
> I am
fairly convinced the problem is improper installation in the cases
>
where a known-working BOV is blamed for such problems.
I was there for
the installation and testing of the vent to atmosphere 1G DSM
BOV.
It was
absolutely properly installed, I have the apex BOV venting to
atmosphere
connected on mine and I did not have the stumble that Vineet was
having. We
could not even tune the SAFC at the 1000 rpm range to take up the
extreme
richness he was experiencing, which was so bad it would just stall
most of
the time. Or the SAFC would be way to lean at idle to leave it that
way, but
it would go back to idle and not stall. The problem with leaving it
set
there is, the rest of the time (when the BOV is NOT in use) at 1000 rpm
it will be way to lean. At this point what else should be checked out,
or
tested?
94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/Mike
(no stumble) Murray
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 23:47:45
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere.
First of all, I doubt Vineet had an
"improper" installation of the DSM BOV.
He is a pretty damn smart guy.
(I'll expect a check in the mail Vineet) ;)
I think there are a few
things that people are not considering with this
whole stumbling with BOVs
problem. If you have a VPC or other fuel
controller (ie. ARC II) that
replaces the ECUs job of controlling fuel, this
whole stumbling when
shifting problem will not exist. If you have an
aftermarket BOV that
fully vents to atmosphere, and you have a stock fuel
system, you WILL have a
stumbling problem when shifting lightly between
gears. You will not
see this problem when shifting hard, like when drag
racing.
Now if
you have the stock BOV and an aftermarket BOV, working together, you
~may~
have the problem. If you have the aftermarket BOV venting too much air
to
the atmosphere, your car will stumble. If the aftermarket BOV is adjusted
to
only let a little air vent, you'll probably not notice your car
stumbling. Mike, you should adjust your BOV to let as much air as
possible
to the atmosphere and go drive around like a grandma. Then
you should get
some stumbling when shifting lightly.
Now Vineet is
using a Super AFC. This set up still uses the ECU for fuel
controlling. The AFC just allows you to trick the ECU, not replace its
signals. The DSM BOV is not adjustable, so if your venting to
atmosphere
with it, your pushing a lot of air out, when it opens. I
would fully expect
Vineet's car to stumble when
shifting.
later,
Curt
"still Stealthless in Minneapolis"
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.com>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: My new 3S email àddrèss and venting to atmosphere.
>Date: Mon,
7 Aug 2000 23:56:58 EDT
>
>In a message dated 8/7/00 7:54:16 PM
Pacific Daylight Time,
beking@home.com>writes:
>
>
> I am fairly convinced the problem is improper installation in the
cases
> > where a known-working BOV is blamed for such
problems.
>
>I was there for the installation and testing of the
vent to atmosphere 1G
>DSM
>BOV.
>It was absolutely properly
installed, I have the apex BOV venting to
>atmosphere connected on mine
and I did not have the stumble that Vineet was
>having. We could not even
tune the SAFC at the 1000 rpm range to take up
>the
>extreme
richness he was experiencing, which was so bad it would just stall
>most
of the time. Or the SAFC would be way to lean at idle to leave it
that
>way, but it would go back to idle and not stall. The problem with
leaving
>it
>set there is, the rest of the time (when the BOV
is NOT in use) at 1000
>rpm
>it will be way to lean. At this
point what else should be checked out, or
>tested?
>
>94 3000
VR4
>
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/>Mike
(no stumble) Murray
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 22:38:21
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Venting to atmosphere.
This is completely inconsistent with my
experience. I didn't say nor
suggest anyone is stupid. I
suggested that improper installation was the
likely cause. I include
tuning as part of this process, and I stand by
that.
I have seen this
before primarily in DSMs with the "let's crush the BOV"
approach and other
similar notions. The few BOV problems I have seen
first-hand on the VR4
were tuning related or failing BOVs.
I have upgraded everything (except
the ECU which remains bone stock) in
stages over the last few years.
The SSBOV was there well before additional
fuel control. It worked
perfectly on my car with proper adjustment and that
was when it was the only
non-stock component on the car other than air
filter and exhaust. Keep
in mind that the stock BOV is in place the way
Blitz designed it (silly
design IMO but that's the way they ship it). The
car was driven daily
in everything from the stop-and-go city heat of Phoenix
traffic to all out
romps in the country side. As I said before, zero
problems. It
worked exactly the way it was supposed to work.
I eventually had to put
the "red" spring into the SSBOV 2 years ago after
the second last round of
bolt-on upgrades (blowers and all that rot) since
anything above 19 psi would
cause leaks now and then. Although 23+ psi was
easily achievable it was
inconsistent as was tuning in that range. By that
time clearly I was
tuning around (more like against) the ECU (using Apexi
AFC + TRE MASC), but
the ECU is still in the loop. Again, no drivability
problems even with
the leaking spring, just reduced peak boost. The heavy
spring fixed
that making tuning and high boost achievable more consistent.
I have since
removed the stock BOV completely as it was the only thing left
to leak below
the 25 psi peak boost the controller is set at.
The DSM BOV is not
adjustable so, other than the amazingly inaccurate
mechanism of crushing the
thing, there is no practical way to tune it to a
given application. The
1st gen DSM BOV may work fine in some applications
but it is a hit and miss
proposition given variances in production
tolerances and the fact that it
cannot be accurately adjusted. It also
wasn't designed to operate
beyond 15+ psi.
The fact that the Apex'i doesn't apparently stumble
supports what I have
observed in my own setup and is consistent with my
experiences with the
SSBOV.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Curt Gendron
> Sent: Monday, August 07, 2000 9:48 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Venting to atmosphere.
>
>
> First of
all, I doubt Vineet had an "improper" installation of
> the DSM
BOV.
> He is a pretty damn smart guy. (I'll expect a check in the mail
Vineet) ;)
>
> I think there are a few things that people are not
considering with this
> whole stumbling with BOVs problem. If you
have a VPC or other fuel
> controller (ie. ARC II) that replaces the ECUs
job of controlling
> fuel, this
> whole stumbling when shifting
problem will not exist. If you have an
> aftermarket BOV that fully
vents to atmosphere, and you have a stock fuel
> system, you WILL have a
stumbling problem when shifting lightly between
> gears. You will
not see this problem when shifting hard, like when drag
>
racing.
>
> Now if you have the stock BOV and an aftermarket BOV,
working
> together, you
> ~may~ have the problem. If you have the
aftermarket BOV venting
> too much air
> to the atmosphere, your car
will stumble. If the aftermarket BOV
> is adjusted
> to only let a
little air vent, you'll probably not notice your car
> stumbling.
Mike, you should adjust your BOV to let as much air
> as possible
>
to the atmosphere and go drive around like a grandma. Then you
>
should get
> some stumbling when shifting lightly.
>
> Now
Vineet is using a Super AFC. This set up still uses the ECU for
fuel
> controlling. The AFC just allows you to trick the ECU, not
replace its
> signals. The DSM BOV is not adjustable, so if your
venting to atmosphere
> with it, your pushing a lot of air out, when it
opens. I would
> fully expect
> Vineet's car to stumble when
shifting.
>
> later,
> Curt
> "still Stealthless in
Minneapolis"
>
http://www.mn3s.org>
> >From:
COMETOTHEZOO@aol.com> >To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: My new 3S email àddrèss and venting to
atmosphere.
> >Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 23:56:58 EDT
> >
>
>In a message dated 8/7/00 7:54:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>
beking@home.com> >writes:
>
>
> > > I am fairly convinced the problem is improper
installation in
> the cases
> > > where a known-working
BOV is blamed for such problems.
> >
> >I was there for the
installation and testing of the vent to
> atmosphere 1G
>
>DSM
> >BOV.
> >It was absolutely properly installed, I
have the apex BOV venting to
> >atmosphere connected on mine and I did
not have the stumble that
> Vineet was
> >having. We could not
even tune the SAFC at the 1000 rpm range to take up
> >the
>
>extreme richness he was experiencing, which was so bad it would
> just
stall
> >most of the time. Or the SAFC would be way to lean at idle
to
> leave it that
> >way, but it would go back to idle and not
stall. The problem
> with leaving
> >it
> >set there is,
the rest of the time (when the BOV is NOT in use) at 1000
>
>rpm
> >it will be way to lean. At this point what else should
be
> checked out, or
> >tested?
> >
> >94 3000
VR4
> >
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/>
>Mike (no stumble) Murray
> >
> >*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 08:38:54
EDT
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Anybody know about Talons?
Merritt,
Are there
any modifications on the car? If he raised the boost level of
the car
and didn't modify the MAS, fuel cut is a very common/normal thing.
Another thing that of course causes fuel cut is a leak in the IC system
after
the MAS. Not really a big deal in the least bit. The two
things that I
noticed about the car (from what you're telling us) is that 1)
The price
seems pretty steep, especially if this is a FWD. 2) The
transmission.
Check to see if the car is FWD or AWD, on a
TSI the only surefire way of
telling is looking underneath the rear of the
car for the differential.
There are other ways of telling, but it
sounds as though you have little
experience with these cars so I would
suggest doing that. I know a person
who bought a TSI thinking it was
AWD, and didn't find out until 2 days later.
How? I dunno...it
amazed me as well. As far as the transmission is
concerned, it would
depend on several factors. It sounds like the shift
linkage bushings
are very worn (about $20 to replace all of them) and/or the
cables are
mis-aligned. Find out what transmission is in the car. This will
tell you a lot as well. Some people have put 91-94 transmissions in
their
90s without changing their cables/shifter to 91-94 specs and have had
no
problems. Other's have had problems as you describe. If it is
indeed the
original 90 transmission, they are the worst year transmission
Mitsu made for
these cars. They utilized a single-cone (2nd gear)
setup and with
paper-backing on all of the syncros. If you don't use
the correct gear oil
in them, the oil doesn't penetrate the "paper" backing
of the syncros and
they don't get lubricated. Bad setup plain and
simple. The good news on
this is that the replacement 90
transmissions (as well as the 91-94..with
different shift linkages) all
contain updated internals (usually 97+
double-cone syncros). The 90
transmissions are also the cheapest of the
bunch coming in at right around
$1350 for a brand new unit.
Another point you
might want to consider about the 90 model
Talon/Eclipse/Lasers is that they
use different electronics (02, Cam-Angle,
Coil pack, Transistor, ISC, TPS,
ECU, etc.) than the 91-94s. This usually
isn't a problem unless you
need parts and are trying to find used ones. I
would have to say that
the 90s overall are the least "desireable" year. If
you can, I would
probably look for a 91-92 model which, if you search around,
can be had for
about the same price. The 92 model would have to be my
personal
favorite as it has all of the best combination of parts (IMHO) out
of all of
the years. They have the 4-bolt, LSD rear end which is next to
indestructable, still utilize the 90-92 "Big Rod" bottom ends, have the
fixed
headligths and the 91-94 electronics. The only thing the 92
doesn't have
that would be wanted from another year car would be the 93-94
big brakes.
The 90s can be decent cars, but at the price this guy
is asking you may be
able to find a nicer model out there. The
Talons/Eclipse/Lasers/Galant VR4s
can be great cars. They're not the
comfy, high-tech, cruisers like the
3000GT/Stealths, but after playing
extensively with both, I can tell you that
you'd be able to make a T/E/L
hang with or surpass your 3000GT in
acceleration without spending a whole
lot of money. No, it'll never be as
nice, that's for sure, but they do have
their advantages over the
3KGTs/Stealths as
well.
Josh
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 08:41:46
EDT
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Anybody know about Talons?
In a message dated 8/7/2000 6:14:45 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
writes:
<< The early ones are the worst trannies
ever..>>
Yes, the 90 model had the least desireable (but the
cheapest to replace at
$1350) transmissions out of all of the
years.
<< better heads as I understand, but ungodly horrible
tranny problems in the
first
gen ones.>>
Actually,
better heads, t-bodies, intake manifolds, turbos, and bottom ends
than the
95-99 models.
<<The cut is..well, not normal.
>>
I wouldn't call it normal, but it isn't really an uncommon thing as
well.
Many of these cars in inexperienced hands have this problem and
it is
easily/quickly rectified in 99% of the
cases.
Josh
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 12:14:06
-0400
From: "White, Rob" <
rob.white@eds.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Need a Gas Tank for '94 VR-4
Hello Team!!
I'm a new member, and
this is my first posting.
I had a crash over the weekend at the SCCA
Solo2
Northeast Divisional Championships at Griffiss
Air Force Base, in
Rome, NY. It was raining,
and I slid off-course, into a big concrete
thing
sticking up out of the ground. To make a long
story short, I
have a hole in my gas tank now,
and it's pretty bent up.
I called the
local Mitsu dealer about a price
for a new tank, and they said that
unfortunately,
they only sell the tank AND fuel pump together.
The
cost for all this is: $ 916.50
I almost through up my morning
coffee when I
heard that. The Mitsu Parts Guy recommended that
I
call around at Junk Yards, and look around
on the Internet for one. I
said, "ughh, yeah,
I think I'll do that".
The Dodge dealership didn't
even want anything
to do with me, since I had a Mitsu.
Question
1: Does anyone know if the gas tank
itself is identical across all
3000's, i.e.,
all years, and all models? (not the pump, just
the
tank)
Question 2: Is there such-a-thing as a Junk
Yard that's on
the Internet? Maybe I can
start from there, and then resort to
calling
every junk yard all over creation....
This will put me out of
competition for the
Solo2 Nationals in Topeka, Kansas this year,
but I'd
like to get my poor baby running again
for some local autocrosses that are
still scheduled.
Please help, thanks team.
- - Rob -
'94
Emerald Green 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 09:43:10
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need a Gas Tank for '94 VR-4
Hi Rob,
I list several
sources for both new and used parts on the Garage page
at my web site. If you
want a new tank, you may find that Tall Mitsu
or Norco Mitsu have much better
prices than your local dealer. If you
want a used tank, New Castle Auto
Wrecking (see my Garage page again)
had a 1992 TT recently. I bought the rear
bumper assembly from them 6
weeks ago. The car was wrecked in front, looked
good in back. They
ship anywhere. Also, "Car-Part" is an online used-parts
search
service. I would doubt that Mitsu changed the tank over the
years.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "White, Rob" <
rob.white@eds.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, August 08, 2000 10:14 AM
Subject: Team3S: Need a Gas Tank for '94
VR-4
Hello Team!!
I'm a new member, and this is my first
posting.
I had a crash over the weekend at the SCCA
Solo2
Northeast Divisional Championships at Griffiss
Air Force Base, in
Rome, NY. It was raining,
and I slid off-course, into a big concrete
thing
sticking up out of the ground. To make a long
story short, I
have a hole in my gas tank now,
and it's pretty bent up.
I called the
local Mitsu dealer about a price
for a new tank, and they said that
unfortunately,
they only sell the tank AND fuel pump together.
The
cost for all this is: $ 916.50
I almost through up my morning
coffee when I
heard that. The Mitsu Parts Guy recommended that
I
call around at Junk Yards, and look around
on the Internet for one. I
said, "ughh, yeah,
I think I'll do that".
The Dodge dealership didn't
even want anything
to do with me, since I had a Mitsu.
Question
1: Does anyone know if the gas tank
itself is identical across all
3000's, i.e.,
all years, and all models? (not the pump, just
the
tank)
Question 2: Is there such-a-thing as a Junk
Yard that's on
the Internet? Maybe I can
start from there, and then resort to
calling
every junk yard all over creation....
This will put me out of
competition for the
Solo2 Nationals in Topeka, Kansas this year,
but I'd
like to get my poor baby running again
for some local autocrosses that are
still scheduled.
Please help, thanks team.
- - Rob -
'94
Emerald Green 3000GT
VR-4
__________________________________________________
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Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 15:04:11
EDT
From:
CUDASEEKER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Anybody know about Talons?
Rich,
I previously have owned Talons for 10
years until purchasing my VR4.
I had a 1990 TSI and a 1996 TSI AWD.
#1.
The air conditioners were one of the problem areas. Not very reliable.
#2 The
cutting out at 5500 rpm's is not normal if the car is stock. If it has
been
modified, who knows. Could be a lot of things they may have done wrong.
#3
The 1990 trannies were junk junk junk!!! I replaced mine twice under
warranty. Hard shifting and very weak.
#4 TSI means turbo. AWD naturally
means all wheel drive. Just look under the
rear of the car and if there's a
differential it's AWD. It should also be
printed on the decal on the rear
bumper. Also if you can't squeel the tires
with ease it's an AWD ;-)
In
1990 the AWD TSI only came with a 5 speed, no automatic was available as
far
as I know.
The TSI AWD is a fantastic winter and road course car. But for
that price
it's pretty high. I sold my 1990 last year for $4,000. It was in
MINT shape
and it only had 39,000 miles on it, so shop around!
Jon 1995
3000GT VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 15:44:36
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Venting to atmosphere.
I can only relate my
personal experiences with venting to the atmosphere,
but here goes.
During my tranny replacement I decided to treat myself a little
and stepped
up from a Weapon-R filter to an FIPK and replace the factory BOV
with the
Blitz (at 105k miles btw). The ECU had to relearn as it
was
disconnected for about 12 hours during the tranny swap, I never adjusted
the
spring. For about an hour the car would die or almost die when the
clutch was
pushed in. After that it was ok, the revs still drop a bit
sometimes, but it
doesn't die. Backfiring, yeah, a lot. It
usually backfires under normal
driving situations, but if I carry the RPMs
out high enough while racing I can
backfire while shifting. I've still
yet to adjust the spring, only running 1
atmosphere and now that I think of
it I hit 1.7 (right before fuel cut) from a
roll with the wastegate hose
disconnected, I guess it's holding boost well. I
do leave pretty black
clouds between shifts while racing, but it doesn't
stumble. On the way
to the DSM shootout a guy in our caravan said I made the
coolest 1'-1.5'
flames that curled up from both tips, and that was under normal
driving and
it didn't backfire. It will stumble pretty bad if I make a few lbs
of
boost and back off the throttle, it'll pretty much fall on it's ass if
I
don't clutch it. I do like the sounds effects though, with some
skillful
clutch/gas combinations it'll make a very long, high pitched
pssssssssshhhhhh,
I'm assuming the valve isn't open completely. My
favorite is the pssh, pssh,
pssh, pssh, pssh, while very lightly letting off
the throttle while still in
vacuum though.
Jason
94 VR4 with 117k
miles
K&N FIPK, ATR d/p, custom 3" catback, gutted precats, no main cat,
no mufflers,
too loud, Blitz BOV, old AVC-R, breather
filter.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 18:07:27
-0600
From: "Manoj Prasad-Uswest" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Might need a engine, If the warranty company F$%#$#% me.
Does anyone have
or know of anyone that has an engine for a VR4 or TT.
I would like a 94 or
above engine with the turbos or a 92-93 with the
turbos.
Please email
me privately.
Rgds
Moe
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 20:39:23
-0700
From: Matthew Hull <
mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Might need a engine, If the warranty company F$%#$#% me.
You
might be in luck!!
I saw a Stealth TT engine for 2100
dollars from a 95 and only has
23000 miles on it. I saw it in the
classified section on the 3SI
website. Just look under parts for
sale. It looked like a great deal I
was thinking of getting it just to
have an extra one to play with around
the garage.
here is the
site
http://www.3si.org/-
-Matt
Manoj Prasad-Uswest wrote:
> Does anyone have or know of
anyone that has an engine for a VR4 or TT.
> I would like a 94 or above
engine with the turbos or a 92-93 with the
> turbos.
>
>
Please email me privately.
>
> Rgds
> Moe
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 18:08:41
-0700
From: Jim Watkins <
jwatkins@mails.terayon.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clattering Clutch
Over time, I have noticed a clattering
associated with the clutch pedal
out after starting my 91-VR4. If the
clutch pedal is pushed in, the
clattering stops. Pedal travel seems
normal and I haven't noticed any
slippage when changing gears, even in hard
launches. No fluid leaks
either. Is the throwout bearing the
likely source of the noise? Is my
clutch about to completely
fail?
Jim
91-VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 18:47:16
-0700 (PDT)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clattering Clutch
I think that may be normal. My car does the
same thing when it is just
started up, until it warms up. In fact, it
even continued making the
noise after I replaced the clutch, disk &
bearing. BTW, the clutch was
fried, I didn't replace it because of this
noise ;-)
I wouldn't sweat it.
Dave
'91 R/T
TT
On Tue, 8 Aug 2000, Jim Watkins wrote:
> Over time, I
have noticed a clattering associated with the clutch pedal
> out after
starting my 91-VR4. If the clutch pedal is pushed in, the
>
clattering stops. Pedal travel seems normal and I haven't noticed
any
> slippage when changing gears, even in hard launches. No fluid
leaks
> either. Is the throwout bearing the likely source of the
noise? Is my
> clutch about to completely fail?
>
>
Jim
> 91-VR4
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 20:48:53
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clattering Clutch
Your TO or throw-out bearing is going
bad. You have a good chance of it
being just fine until the next clutch
change.
(I'm not even really sure what will happen if one breaks or goes
entirely ad
other than this stupid annoying noise)
When was the clutch
last replaced - was the Throw-out bearing replaced with
it - if not, it
should have been.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Watkins
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:09 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Clattering Clutch
Over time, I have
noticed a clattering associated with the clutch pedal
out after starting my
91-VR4. If the clutch pedal is pushed in, the
clattering stops.
Pedal travel seems normal and I haven't noticed any
slippage when changing
gears, even in hard launches. No fluid leaks
either. Is the
throwout bearing the likely source of the noise? Is my
clutch about to
completely fail?
Jim
91-VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 19:06:12
-0700
From: Jim Watkins <
jwatkins@mails.terayon.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clattering Clutch
I have had the car since 17,000 miles and
never replaced either. At 65K, the
clutch still seems strong enough for
open tracking and occasional hard
launches. If it was your car, would
you replace the clutch or wait for more
convincing symptoms of
wear?
Jim
91 VR4
cody wrote:
> Your TO or throw-out
bearing is going bad. You have a good chance of it
> being just fine
until the next clutch change.
>
> (I'm not even really sure what
will happen if one breaks or goes entirely ad
> other than this stupid
annoying noise)
>
> When was the clutch last replaced - was the
Throw-out bearing replaced with
> it - if not, it should have
been.
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Watkins
> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:09 PM
> To:
Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Clattering Clutch
>
> Over time, I
have noticed a clattering associated with the clutch pedal
> out after
starting my 91-VR4. If the clutch pedal is pushed in, the
>
clattering stops. Pedal travel seems normal and I haven't noticed
any
> slippage when changing gears, even in hard launches. No fluid
leaks
> either. Is the throwout bearing the likely source of the
noise? Is my
> clutch about to completely fail?
>
>
Jim
> 91-VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 23:14:21
-0400
From: "Ukyo[T]" <
ukyo@avana.net>
Subject: Team3S: A
newbie's first mod
Hi guys,
Well, on the advice of the kind souls
on this list, I bit the bullet and
dove in to my first mod on my base '97
3000GT. I picked up the K & N
Filtercharger. The installation
went off without a hitch, and the car
sounds a little meaner now. It
doesn't seem to have grabbed any more power,
but the improved mileage will
always be welcome.
She will be staying at home tomorrow, as during the
installation of the
Filtercharger, we noticed some oil leakage around the oil
filter. I'll jack
it up and hopefully a quick snugging will take care
of it. I also detected
a slight ticking at the top of the motor.
I was told that it could be a
wire / plug not firing
correctly.
Looks like my next job (after the oil filter) will be plugs
and
wires.
I've never been a "car guy", but thanks to this kick ass
car, and this way
over my head list, I think things are going to
change.
No one ever answered my question about my sunroof... It
creaks over bumps
and when taking turns at decent speeds. Is this
normal? Could it be stress
related, or is it just misaligned? Any
help would be appreciated.
- --Travis
'97 3000GT (Base + K&N
Filtercharger / Red)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 22:34:25
-0600
From: "Manoj Prasad-Uswest" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Might need a engine, If the warranty company F$%#$#% me.
I sent
him an email this morning. I am hoping he will respond.
I ment to say
92-93 without the turbos.
Rgds
Moe
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Matthew Hull
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 9:39 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Might need a engine, If the warranty
company
F$%#$#% me.
You might be in luck!!
I
saw a Stealth TT engine for 2100 dollars from a 95 and only has
23000 miles
on it. I saw it in the classified section on the 3SI
website.
Just look under parts for sale. It looked like a great deal I
was
thinking of getting it just to have an extra one to play with around
the
garage.
here is the site
http://www.3si.org/- -Matt
Manoj
Prasad-Uswest wrote:
> Does anyone have or know of anyone that has an
engine for a VR4 or TT.
> I would like a 94 or above engine with the
turbos or a 92-93 with the
> turbos.
>
> Please email me
privately.
>
> Rgds
> Moe
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#228
*********************