team3s
Thursday, August 3
2000 Volume 01
: Number
223
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 02 Aug 2000 23:14:30 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <
mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Hot
I drove for 7+ hours each way
on the autobahn this past weekend from
Frankfurt to Vienna and back. I
have a temperature thermocouple mounted in the
Y-pipe. I was trying to
do a test Jack T. suggested several weeks ago of
finding a steep hill and
flooring it in 4th and seeing how long I could hold it
at 14 psi. The
best I could get in 4th was about 20 seconds, so I tried it
again in 6th and
got about 40 seconds. I also did a bunch of acceleration runs
from 60
to 130 mph. While it is hard to look at EGT, water temp, intake
temp,
boost, RPM, and speed, along with the road, I did come to some seat of
the pants
conclusions.
As anything above 0 psi, the
intake temp will start to rise. at anything
above 5 psi, the temp really
starts to rise, at 14 psi, the intake temp will NOT
stop rising. The
maximum intake temp I was able to hit was 110 deg F. This was
not
because it maxed out there, it was because I ran out of road. I
have
therefore concluded that our intercoolers just plain suck. The
rise
(acceleration) in intake temp was directly related to boost. Which
makes sense,
however, you would think that at greater speeds (up to a point)
the intercoolers
would be working better with more air passing over
then. That did not appear to
be the case. I think my Stealth has
the biggest IC openings of all the stock
front ends, and it still
sucks. If I could find a way to monitor it, I would
love to plot the
turbo exhaust, IC inlet, IC outlet, and y-pipe simultaneously,
to see
what kind of temp drop there is over the entire system. I am working
on
this one.
What I do know is that heat soak (as I
interpret it) is not a problem on our
cars, EXCEPT when you stop the
car. I can push the turbos very hard and the
intake temp always acts
very predictable (i.e. drops to the same temp when I am
off the
turbos). But if I turn the car off for 15 minutes, and get back in,
it
takes at least 20 minutes of HIGH speed driving to get the intake temps
back
down. This 20 minutes is the air flow getting rid of the heat soak
the IC
piping and turbos have absorbed. Stopped and idling is almost as
bad.
At normal highway driving of 110 mph in 6th gear, my
intake temp was about
97 deg, with outside air being about 72 deg. If I
was getting heat soak, this
97 deg number would slowly rise. Also, the
highest intake temp I ever recorded
on the highway, was a run I made from
0-140 mph (accelerating Very hard) of 127
deg. So for you drag racers
out there, you may want to monitor your intake
temp. I think you will
find that a FMIC could make a real difference.
Hope this makes
sense,
Mike Chapleski
'95 Stealth RT TT
Frankfurt,
Germany
Borla, Alamo DP, K&N, Blitz DSBC, etc.
"Jannusch, Matt"
wrote:
> Jeff said:
>
> >> That MEANS..that the
stock ICs have a certain threshold
> >> of being able to dissipate
heat. Once you reach that
> >> limit of heat injected into the IC,
it can no longer
> >> dissipate it quick enough..and they just get
hotter and
> >> hotter. You then have to drop the amount of
heat going
> >> into the IC, to allow it to cool down. A more
efficient
> >> IC at the CFM fo air you are running, will work
better.
>
> Rich said:
>
> > Hey gang...what do you
think of Jeff's analysis? Think
> > that's causing my water temps to go
up?
>
> It is certainly a possibility. Heat soak usually only
happens during
> prolonged high-boost situations, especially when
travelling slowly. If you
> are still running stock boost levels and
it happened while at a decent
> speed, I don't think it would be heat soak
- and if it was, then I don't
> think it was the primary factor. If
the intake temps get high it will cause
> more knock and the ECU will
retard the timing. You'd feel the power start
> to fall off, so if
you noticed that then there's a good possibility that the
> intercoolers
were getting really hot.
>
> The proportion of intake air heat
versus the heat from actual combustion is
> a reasonably small amount
though, I'm not sure it could actually overheat
> the motor although it
can certainly reduce performance by a large factor if
> allowed to get out
of control.
>
> I'd point my finger at the cooling system before the
intercoolers, but heat
> soak could be a possibility if the cooling system
checks out.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 10:38:05
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Unorthodox Pulley Is Bad For Engine
> The other factor
is that these engines are typically
> purpose-built and operate within
fairly narrow RPM
> ranges and therefore spend very little time in
the
> ranges where harmonic balance is an issue for the
> specific
engine.
...and they are usually torn down and rebuilt after every race to
replace
worn components whether they have failed or not. Folks probably
aren't
going to do that with their street cars.
> That being said,
I suppose it is possible that the
> 6G would not require a harmonic
balancer IFF the
> range of operation was determined where these
>
harmonics occur, AND the engine was only ever
> operated in those
ranges. In any case this
> eliminates street driven cars.
In
high-performance snowmobile applications (which I'm more familiar with),
the
harmonics get significantly worse as RPMs increase. The magnitude
of
the vibration increases geometrically. It is really easy to change
gearing
on snowmobiles, and people who mis-gear their sleds and run at too
high RPM
tend to have catastrophic crank/bearing failure unless they use
a
fluid-damped "pulley" (it isn't really a pulley as no belt attaches to
it,
but for the sake of our discussion it is the same). If you fit a
harmonic
dampener then higher RPMs are relatively safe. In other words
- these
motors are designed to operate at RPM ranges below where harmonics
are of
significant magnitude to cause engine damage. Mitsubishi added
the dampener
pulley to allow the motor to operate at higher RPMs than it
safely could
without the pulley.
So, if you drive your car like a
minivan and shift at low RPM then you can
probably get away with an
underdrive pulley (but probably aren't hungry for
power anyways). If
you drive like me and like to run it to the redline a
few times a day, then
you maybe want to stick with Mitsubishi's design.
If you use a
non-dampened pulley, start putting aside some money for an
engine
rebuild. You may be lucky, or you may not.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:48:47
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Hot
> As anything above 0 psi,
the intake temp will start to rise. at anything
>above 5 psi, the temp
really starts to rise, at 14 psi, the intake temp
will NOT
>stop
rising. <snip> I have
>therefore concluded that our
intercoolers just plain suck. The rise
>(acceleration) in intake
temp was directly related to boost.
Hmmm.My problem at the Heartland
Park road course was that whenever I used
lots of boost (stock boost), my
water temperature would go up. It crept up
when I used boost over a few laps,
then came down rapidly if I short
shifted and stayed out of the boost. Maybe
Mike is onto something.
But can elevated intake temps cause higher water
temps? Mike, did you see
any corresponding increase in water temp during your
tests?
Which makes sense,
>however, you would think that at
greater speeds (up to a point) the
intercoolers
>would be working
better with more air passing over then. That did not
appear
to
>be the case.
especially at speeds of
100+
>deg. So for you drag racers out there, you may want to
monitor your intake
>temp. I think you will find that a FMIC could
make a real difference.
Yeah, but for us road racers, I think a FMIC
would contribute to the water
cooling problem.
However, it seems that I'm
the only one with a water temp problem.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 17:08:00
-0500
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <
kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S: wiring
question
Hello,
To make a long story short, I have
a malfunctioning factory alarm in
a 92 SL. I have had it to the local dealer
for repair and all they could
do after 4 hours of labor charges was manage to
get the horn and lights
to not trigger. The headlights still pop up but don't
flash. My question
is, can the headlights be wired not to pop up at ANY TIME
except when
you push the switch on the dash? I would gladly manually raise
the
lights to get around this annoying problem. Suggestions please.
-
--
Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 18:25:18
-0400
From: Denny Maderi <
dmaderi@iname.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: wiring question
Yup, no problem follow this link the mod will do
what you want it to do.
http://www.3si.org/SnakeEyes.html-
-Deano
Syracuse
'93 Stealth ES
(Day 5 at the dealer and they still
don't know what's wrong with it)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Dale T. Kroetz
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 6:08 PM
To:
3000GT List
Subject: Team3S: wiring
question
Hello,
To make a long story short, I
have a malfunctioning factory alarm in
a 92 SL. I have had it to the local
dealer for repair and all they could
do after 4 hours of labor charges was
manage to get the horn and lights
to not trigger. The headlights still pop up
but don't flash. My question
is, can the headlights be wired not to pop up at
ANY TIME except when
you push the switch on the dash? I would gladly manually
raise the
lights to get around this annoying problem. Suggestions
please.
- --
Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 23:52:38
GMT
From: "Ryan Meador" <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Cosmetics
I KNOW that I'm not the only one with this problem-
therefore I'll ask you
all...
Has anyone found a way to cosmeticly repair
the black trim on the doors just
below the side windows? My paint is so
beautiful- but when you get close to
the car- that peeling, fading, cracking
black molding makes it look 7 years
old. (Which it is- but why advertise)
Because of the cracking, a quick layer
of paint would not do the trick. Any
wizzards have a good fix for this one?
Thanks in advance.
Ryan '93
VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:57:38
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: In pursuit of bigger, better brakes!
Hello folks,
Is
anybody interested in improving their braking capability?
Brad Bedell has
been wanting to develop a 2-piece rotor for his Porsche 'Big
Red' brake
kit. Originally he was interested in KVR built hats and KVR
rotors
(probably Brembo blanks). We are now both interested in
Porsche's 322mm x 32mm
cross-drilled bi-turbo GT2 rotors and possibly
Porsche's 330mm x 34mm GT3
rotors! For hats, he may also have a local
shop build them instead of KVR. If
you take a look at the Mov'it kit
at
http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html,
they talk about the superiority of
Porsche rotors (metallurgy, dual vanes for
cooling, 'cross-drilled' holes are
actually cast at 4mm instead of drilled at
8mm, etc.). Also the GT2 rotors
should cost about $175 each off the
shelf. Therefore a set of hats and rotors
should cost less than the
Bremsa's ($1000) that some of our European members are
using! Also hats
don't have to be replaced as often as rotors do so this brings
down the cost
over 2-4 sets.
So, are any of you interested in helping fund a little
brake R&D project? Brad
figures he could buy a rotor and prototype
one hat for about $400. That would
be $50 each if we could get 8
folks. Brad also said that the full contribution
would apply toward
future brake purchases through him. Count me in as
a
contributor!
Lets hear your feedback. Is anybody
interested?
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken
Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 17:10:17
-0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: In pursuit of bigger, better brakes!
Were definitely
interested..but saving $$ for vacation coming up in 2 weeks.
After
that..were in..cost will be no issue on the final product.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, August 02, 2000 4:58 PM
To: Team3S; Rich Merritt; John T.
Christian; Errin Humphrey; Brad Bedell
Subject: Team3S: In pursuit of bigger,
better brakes!
Hello folks,
Is anybody interested in
improving their braking capability?
Brad Bedell has been wanting to
develop a 2-piece rotor for his Porsche 'Big
Red' brake kit. Originally
he was interested in KVR built hats and KVR rotors
(probably Brembo
blanks). We are now both interested in Porsche's 322mm x
32mm
cross-drilled bi-turbo GT2 rotors and possibly Porsche's 330mm x 34mm
GT3
rotors! For hats, he may also have a local shop build them instead
of KVR. If
you take a look at the Mov'it kit at
http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html,
they talk about the superiority of
Porsche rotors (metallurgy, dual vanes for
cooling, 'cross-drilled' holes are
actually cast at 4mm instead of drilled at
8mm, etc.). Also the GT2 rotors
should cost about $175 each off the
shelf. Therefore a set of hats and rotors
should cost less than the
Bremsa's ($1000) that some of our European members are
using! Also hats
don't have to be replaced as often as rotors do so this brings
down the cost
over 2-4 sets.
So, are any of you interested in helping fund a little
brake R&D project? Brad
figures he could buy a rotor and prototype
one hat for about $400. That would
be $50 each if we could get 8
folks. Brad also said that the full contribution
would apply toward
future brake purchases through him. Count me in as
a
contributor!
Lets hear your feedback. Is anybody
interested?
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken
Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 22:07:36
CDT
From: "Danny Erick" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need help!
Alright. I finally got my car home so I can take a
look at it now. Does
anyone have a page that shows me how to get to and
chack the ECU? Or is it
the same as the DSM cars procedure that's at
tmo.com? Also, when looking
under the dash today I noticed that there was no
fuse in the large white
opening that is mounted on the right side of the
fuse box that is to the
left of the drivers feet. Is this supposed to be
empty??? Thanks guys, and
does anyone have any new opinions on the fact that
one day the car runs fine
and the next it is back to backfiring etc.? Is
that a good sign that the ECU
IS the problem or can mechanical problems have
the same symptoms?
Dan Erick
92 Stealth R/T
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 23:18:16
EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Cosmetics
In a message dated 00-08-02 19:55:25 EDT, you
write:
<< I KNOW that I'm not the only one with this problem-
therefore I'll ask you
all...
Has anyone found a way to
cosmeticly repair the black trim on the doors just
below the side
windows? My paint is so beautiful- but when you get close to
the car-
that peeling, fading, cracking black molding makes it look 7 years
old. (Which it is- but why advertise) Because of the cracking, a quick
layer
of paint would not do the trick. Any wizzards have a good fix
for this one?
Thanks in advance.
Ryan '93 VR4
>>
Once they are sun damaged I think they are done
for.
I think they cost about $150/pair if I remember correctly. You could
probably
shop around to find a better price.
They are not difficult
to swap. Roll the windows down and remove the inner
door trim panel and you
will get a better view of how they are held in place.
You may also have to
remove the black triangular trim pieces adjacent to the
rear view mirrors.
The trim strips are just held in place via friction. Start
at one end
(probably the back end) and pry the old one off. When pressing the
new trim
strips into place, make sure you've got them positioned correctly
fore/aft
on the door - once they are on they don't want to move around.
You'll have
to use quite a bit of force to get them seated - almost leaning
on them with
some body weight (don't do this with the doors open - you'll put
a huge
strain on the door hinges).
Paul Klusman
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 22:29:51
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: In pursuit of bigger, better brakes!
>So, are any of you
interested in helping fund a little brake R&D
project?
Brad
>figures he could buy a rotor and prototype one hat for
about $400. That
would
>be $50 each if we could get 8
folks. Brad also said that the full
contribution
>would apply
toward future brake purchases through him. Count me in as
a
>contributor!
Count me in.
Where do I send the money? To you
or Brad?
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 00:39:48
-0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Need help!
Yes, go to
www.tmo.com and
follow the procedure
Matt
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 08:01:34
-0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
In pursuit of bigger, better brakes!
What advantage would this have over
the now-available AP Racing 14" brakes,
with 6 piston calipers, and the
rotors have aluminum hats?
?cost (I think Stillen may have these
AP now, there is Japan source at least)
?pad thickness
?pad area
?cost
of pads
?cost of rotor replacements
?fit (BFG makes GForce R1
roadrace tires in 18" now so next brake upgrade
I get, I'd like the B I G G E
S T rotors I can find, and so far the AP take the
cake.
330mm Porsche rotors would be "only" 12.9"...and do NOT say
'12.9" is all we
need, anything else is too much' because that is NOT true.
I want WAY MORE
brake than I need. Doubt that will ever happen :)
- --well
designed hats are more than simple aluminum spacers with
solid
bolts--they have a small amount of PLAY in those bolts to account
for
heating/cooling and differences in expansion between aluminum
and
iron. KVR, Brembo, AP etc have alot of experience in the "school
of
hard knocks" with FAILURES that they have corrected their hat
designs,
so I'd tend to prefer a hat/rotor setup from an established
maker.
Nothing wrong with local fabricator in this case, if you
live next to Brembo
or Baer etc; but brakes, hats, rotors DO fail
and when they do our LIVES are
on the line (Road America gets
VERRRRY fast and if I lose a rotor, I'm
dead :(
That's my opinion, anyway...
Jack
Tertadian
Ken Middaugh wrote: snips
> Anybody interested in
improving braking capability?
> Brad Bedell has been wanting to develop a
2-piece rotor for his Porsche 'Big
> Red' brake kit. He was
interested in KVR hats/rotors
> (probably Brembo blanks). Now
interested in Porsche's 322mm x 32mm
> cross-drilled bi-turbo GT2 rotors,
possibly Porsche's 330mm x 34mm GT3
> rotors! For hats, may have
local shop build them instead of KVR. If
> you take a look at the
Mov'it kit
>
http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html,
they talk superiority of
> Porsche rotors (metallurgy, dual vane cooling,
'cross-drilled' holes are
> actually cast at 4mm instead of drilled at
8mm, etc.). GT2 rotors
> cost $175 each. Therefore set of
hat/rotors
> cost less than Bremsa's $1000 some European members
are
> using! Also hats don't have to be replaced as often as rotors
do so this brings
> down cost.
> Any of you interested in
helping fund brake R&D project? Brad
> figures he could buy
rotor, prototype one hat for $400.
> $50 each if we get 8 folks.
Brad said the full contribution
> would apply toward future brake purchase
from him.
> Is anybody interested?
> Ken
Middaugh
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 09:27:26
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need help!
Hi Dan,
You should get a manual if you plan
on messing with the ECU. The
manuals have indispensible info regarding pin
assignments and proper
checking of values using the pins. That white thing
next to the fuse
box is the diagnostic port. Dataloggers plug into it. Hard
to tell on
the backfiring issue.
Jeff Lucius
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/The
new 3/S Backup CD Homepage
-->
http://www.manualcd.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Danny Erick" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, August 02, 2000 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need
help!
Alright. I finally got my car home so I can take a look at it
now.
Does anyone have a page that shows me how to get to and chack
the
ECU? Or is it the same as the DSM cars procedure that's at
tmo.com?
Also, when looking under the dash today I noticed that there was
no
fuse in the large white opening that is mounted on the right side
of
the fuse box that is to the left of the drivers feet. Is this
supposed
to be empty??? Thanks guys, and does anyone have any new
opinions on the fact
that one day the car runs fine and the next it
is back to backfiring etc.? Is
that a good sign that the ECU IS the
problem or can mechanical problems have
the same symptoms?
Dan Erick
92 Stealth R/T
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 10:10:09
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: In pursuit of bigger, better brakes!
The advantage of
course is cost. If cost is no object, then there are no doubt
better
brake kits available in the $3K-$8K range. Brad is trying to improve
his
current kit by offering an excellent 2-piece rotor but still keep the
cost in
the, I'm guessing for the GT2 rotors, $2100 range! It won't be
the absolute
best brake kit available, but it will probably be the best
bang-for-the-buck
brake kit for our cars, about the same price as the
Stillen/Brembo kit that uses
the not-so-great rotors and has inferior
calipers (apologies to owners of this
kit :)).
Brad plans to have the
hats designed by a brake company (KVR maybe??). He
hasn't decided who
will do the fabrication yet. You are absolutely correct in
that we
don't want to risk our lives on an inferior hat just to save $100.
Mov'it's
hats are 7075 aircraft aluminum and cost $200 each. I hope Brad
will
develop and offer something comparible. Also, one of our members
has
tentatively offered his CNC expertise and equipment as well, maybe
for
prototyping and fitting, but not necessarily for production.
If
you are really serious in wanting the biggest possible brakes and you
can
afford them, there is something bigger that the AP 14". Maybe Brad
can
investigate a kit using Porsche Motorsports GT2 endurance 380mm (14.9"!)
rotors
and GT3 calipers (see the Mov'it Terminator kit, ~$5K). I wonder
which braking
system would be better, 6-piston calipers with 14" rotors, or
4-piston calipers
with 14.9" rotors.
If wishes were Porsches, then
beggars would drive ;)
Regards,
Ken
xwing wrote:
>
>
What advantage would this have over the now-available AP Racing 14"
brakes,
> with 6 piston calipers, and the rotors have aluminum
hats?
> ?cost (I think Stillen may have these AP now, there is
Japan source at least)
> ?pad thickness
> ?pad area
> ?cost of
pads
> ?cost of rotor replacements
> ?fit (BFG makes GForce R1
roadrace tires in 18" now so next brake upgrade
> I get, I'd like the B I
G G E S T rotors I can find, and so far the AP take the
>
cake. 330mm Porsche rotors would be "only" 12.9"...and do NOT say
>
'12.9" is all we need, anything else is too much' because that is NOT
true.
> I want WAY MORE brake than I need. Doubt that will ever
happen :)
> --well designed hats are more than simple aluminum
spacers with solid
> bolts--they have a small amount of PLAY in those
bolts to account for
> heating/cooling and differences in expansion
between aluminum and
> iron. KVR, Brembo, AP etc have alot of
experience in the "school of
> hard knocks" with FAILURES that they have
corrected their hat
> designs, so I'd tend to prefer a hat/rotor setup
from an established
> maker. Nothing wrong with local fabricator in
this case, if you
> live next to Brembo or Baer etc; but brakes, hats,
rotors DO fail
> and when they do our LIVES are on the line (Road America
gets
> VERRRRY fast and if I lose a rotor, I'm dead :(
>
> That's my opinion, anyway...
> Jack Tertadian
>
> Ken Middaugh wrote: snips
>
> > Anybody interested in
improving braking capability?
> > Brad Bedell has been wanting to
develop a 2-piece rotor for his Porsche 'Big
> > Red' brake kit.
He was interested in KVR hats/rotors
> > (probably Brembo
blanks). Now interested in Porsche's 322mm x 32mm
> >
cross-drilled bi-turbo GT2 rotors, possibly Porsche's 330mm x 34mm GT3
>
> rotors! For hats, may have local shop build them instead of
KVR. If
> > you take a look at the Mov'it kit
> >
http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html,
they talk superiority of
> > Porsche rotors (metallurgy, dual vane
cooling, 'cross-drilled' holes are
> > actually cast at 4mm instead of
drilled at 8mm, etc.). GT2 rotors
> > cost $175 each.
Therefore set of hat/rotors
> > cost less than Bremsa's $1000 some
European members are
> > using! Also hats don't have to be
replaced as often as rotors do so this brings
> > down cost.
>
> > Any of you interested in helping fund brake R&D project?
Brad
> > figures he could buy rotor, prototype one hat for
$400.
> > $50 each if we get 8 folks. Brad said the full
contribution
> > would apply toward future brake purchase from
him.
> > Is anybody interested?
> > Ken Middaugh
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 21:23:34
EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Power Antenna
Hello list members:
A few days ago I noticed
that my power antenna got stuck on it's way down. I
took a look at the
antenna, and I noticed a lot of dark black liquid
(possibly some kind of
greese) around the joints of the antenna - there was
quite a thick layer
which seemed to have formed in less than a couple of
hours.
I pulled
out the antenna and it I could tell that a couple of the joints were
too
sticky for the antenna motor to push. I tried some standard lubricants on
the antenna (like WD-40) but it didn't help so I bought a new
antenna.
I put the new antenna in and it seemed to work fine a few of
times but then
it stopped going down all the way - it just stops after it
gets about 90% of
the way down. I noticed that the black greese-like
substance had rubbed off
on the plastic rack (the part the motor pulls on)
of the new antenna as well
- - but it didn't spread anywhere on the
antenna.
One thing that I found odd is that the plastic rack on the new
antenna is a
lot longer than the one on the old antenna. I thought that
maybe a peice
broke off of the old antenna and fell in the motor, but the
motor doesn't
seem to be giving me any problems so that doesn't seem likely.
Plus that
doesn't explain why that black greese appeared on the joints of
the old
antenna so suddenly.
I would appreciate it if someone could
tell me where this black greese is
coming from, if I should examine the
antenna motor (I didn't take the time to
remove all those panels to examine
the motor because it seems to be
functioning normally), and of course how I
can fix this problem.
Thanks!
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#223
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