team3s
Thursday, July 27
2000
Volume 01 : Number
215
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:39:07 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Running Hot
One problem we had last weekend whilst running at
Heartland Park was high
temperatures. Whenever I would use a lot of boost,
the temperature gauge
would go sky high within a few laps..
I don't
think this is a radiator/water pump problem, because the temp would
go back
to normal as soon as I started short shifting and running in higher
gears.
The temp would drop back to normal in half a lap, simply because I
was not
using as much boost. I installed a new water pump last year. I'm
still
running stock boost, BTW.
So, a few questions for youse guys who run the
autobahns or open tracking,
where you are on full boost for long periods of
time:
Have you had a similar overheating problem?.
If so, did you
do anything to cure it?
Any chance this could be related to the cats?
Could they be generating high
underhood temperatures? Do those of you who
have the problem still have
your cats? If you do not have the problem, have
you removed your cats?
I would like to install a real temperature gauge,
perhaps in the windshield
pillar pod with a boost gauge. Any recommendations
on what gauge to use and
where to attach the temperature sensor?
We
had a big discussion about this problem a year or so ago, which I
abandoned
after I found I had a bad water pump. Some of the solutions we
discussed at
the time included raising the back edge of the hood to allow
air flow,
installing a louvered hood, running Water Wetter in an all-water
system, and
so on. Has anyone tried these? Anything work?
I am also thinking about a
boost controller and water injection, but now I
wonder if I might make the
overheating problem worse with more boost.
Help! It's getting tougher in
the higher run groups. When I run with lesser
cars in lower run groups, I can
short shift and use higher gears and still
stay ahead. But if I try that in a
higher run group, they are on me like
stink on poop. I need to use boost to
stay in front of these lesser cars.
To do that, I gotta cool it down
somehow.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 26 Jul 2000 20:41:03
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Vitek plug wires
Has anyone tried Vitek Spark Plug Wires?
Good, Bad, Ugly?
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com_______________________________________________________________________
Free
Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html_______________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 21:16:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Vitek plug wires
I have Vitek wire in my '92 RT TT.. had it
for about 2
years.. can't say how good they are.. no data~ but I
had no
problems with it either..
TRD has some good words on them:
http://trdnw.com/cat_vitek.htmland
Vitek's site:
http://www.vitekwires.com/cables.htm/George
www.geocities.com/amkreadgto/hybrid.html-
--- John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
wrote:
> Has anyone tried Vitek Spark Plug Wires? Good, Bad,
>
Ugly?
>
> John Monnin
>
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
>
>
>
_______________________________________________________________________
>
> Free Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
>
http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html>
>
_______________________________________________________________________
>
>
> *** Info:
>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 00:15:05
-0400
From: Ron Thompson <
rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Master Cylinder Repair?
Jeff I would replace the whole
cylinder. Rebuilds usually work for a
short time and the problem reoccurs. I
bought a new one from West
Broad Mit's and it was $238. Still have it, want
to make me an
offer????
Ron
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
>
>
Subject:
>
Clutch Master
Cylinder
>
Repair?
>
Attachment(s):
>
<font size=-1></font>
> Over the past few days, I noticed the
clutch pedal on my '92 VR4 was
> feeling spongy. Today, on the way home
from work, the pedal went all the
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 00:16:21
-0400
From: Ron Thompson <
rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Master Cylinder Repair?
OOPs. It's a brake master
cylinder... sorry. Any offers????
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 23:19:39
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Running Hot
Rich,
this is somewhat similar to what I noticed the
last time I went to the
track. I have an aftermarket water temp gauge
(Autometer) and I was
registering 220F or so throughout the event.
However, a the end of the 1
mile straight (140+ mph) I noticed the temp was
above 240. When I got off
the gas it immediately dropped back to
220. This was very sudden, which is
contrary to what you were seeing on
your stock temp gauge. I'm thinking
that this is due to high discharge
temps from the maxxed out turbos. I have
no cats on my car. If
not, then would it be due to knock?? Why else would
the temps drop off
so quickly? I do not have data logging capability on
this car. I
don't know enough about these engines to make any
qualified
conclusions. Maybe next time I'll try with and without race
gas to see if
it makes a difference. BTW, I was running 14.2 PSI on
stock turbos.
As for aftermarket gauges - I have an Autometer mechanical
water temp gauge
and I like it a lot. There is a spare opening next to
where the stock water
temp sensors (two) are located. I just removed
the plug and hooked up my
Autometer temp sensor. No problems. I
cannot recall, but I may have had to
use a standard to metric
converter.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
bbedell@austin.rr.com>;
"Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>;
"xwing" <
xwing@execpc.com>;
<
jczoom@iname.com>; "john Attebury" <
jgunmann@hotmail.com>;
<
MikeVR4@aol.com>; "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>; <
sjc0u812@juno.com>;
<
Dskull@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26,
2000 10:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: Running Hot
> One problem we had
last weekend whilst running at Heartland Park was high
> temperatures.
Whenever I would use a lot of boost, the temperature gauge
> would go sky
high within a few laps..
>
> I don't think this is a radiator/water
pump problem, because the temp
would
> go back to normal as soon as I
started short shifting and running in
higher
> gears. The temp would
drop back to normal in half a lap, simply because I
> was not using as
much boost. I installed a new water pump last year. I'm
> still running
stock boost, BTW.
>
> So, a few questions for youse guys who run the
autobahns or open tracking,
> where you are on full boost for long periods
of time:
>
> Have you had a similar overheating
problem?.
>
> If so, did you do anything to cure it?
>
>
Any chance this could be related to the cats? Could they be
generating
high
> underhood temperatures? Do those of you who have the
problem still have
> your cats? If you do not have the problem, have you
removed your cats?
>
> I would like to install a real temperature
gauge, perhaps in the
windshield
> pillar pod with a boost gauge. Any
recommendations on what gauge to use
and
> where to attach the
temperature sensor?
>
> We had a big discussion about this problem a
year or so ago, which I
> abandoned after I found I had a bad water pump.
Some of the solutions we
> discussed at the time included raising the back
edge of the hood to allow
> air flow, installing a louvered hood, running
Water Wetter in an all-water
> system, and so on. Has anyone tried these?
Anything work?
>
> I am also thinking about a boost controller and
water injection, but now I
> wonder if I might make the overheating
problem worse with more boost.
>
> Help! It's getting tougher in the
higher run groups. When I run with
lesser
> cars in lower run groups, I
can short shift and use higher gears and still
> stay ahead. But if I try
that in a higher run group, they are on me like
> stink on poop. I need to
use boost to stay in front of these lesser cars.
> To do that, I gotta
cool it down somehow.
>
> Rich/old poop/94
VR4
>
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 09:00:39
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3" Active Exhaust?
Were you able to eliminate the annoying
resonance the Borla produces at
cruising
RPMs (2-3k)? Roger spoke
with some exhaust specialists a while back and they
suggested that the
mufflers used for this application are too small. The Borla
does sound
awesome, but this resonance is the main reason I'd lean towards
the
Greddy...
Or towards HKS of course, The Greddy is only one sided
and doesn't look
nice IMHO.
The resonance is not there if one just
cruises around. But if you want to
accellerate a little in this area the
sound is very anyoing, the longer the
worser. The cause is that the Borla as
no resonance muffler within the
piping as the stock one has. At the end the
"mufflers" they have choosen
are way too small for a 3 liter and they only
represent a small resonator.
They did this way because space is limited at
the pass side and the took
the same muffler on both sides. The sound above
3000 and in high speed is
very nice but this just doesn't make it
faster.
My understanding is that unless the ENTIRE exhaust is upgraded
from the turbos
back, performance gains will be minimal.
Well, let's
say from before the pre-cats. If they are gutted the major
problems are
away. The flanges and O2 housing do not need to be
enhanced.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 08:15:28
-0700
From: Jim Watkins <
jwatkins@mails.terayon.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Hot
Rich,
I just returned from a 2 day open track
event at Thunderhill Park in Willows
CA. During the two days, I ran 150
track miles. There were three run groups
and each session was about
20-25 minutes long. During the first session, I
forgot to turn off the
climate control and after the session a lot of
condensation ran out from
under the car and gave me a scare, but subsequent
sessions were normal.
Thunderhill is 3 miles and 15 turns in the full course
rendition and top
speed for me was about 115 on the 3/8 mile front straight.
Even the vipers
didn't have the balls to go any faster before the 75 mph turn
1. I was
also on full boost between turns 6 and 9 since 7 and 8 are only kinks
in the
full course. Also, full boost between 9 and 10 reaching about 100
before
very hard braking in 10.
The temperature gauge was rock solid
throughout even with 1.05 bars of boost on
stock turbos. The ACV-R records
top speed, boost and RPM. Bottom line - no
overheating throughout the
event and more than enough power to spank everything
except the vipers.
I definitely need more cornering experience, but that's
another topic
:)
Jim
91-VR4
Oskar wrote:
> Rich,
>
>
this is somewhat similar to what I noticed the last time I went to the
>
track. I have an aftermarket water temp gauge (Autometer) and I
was
> registering 220F or so throughout the event. However, a the
end of the 1
> mile straight (140+ mph) I noticed the temp was above
240. When I got off
> the gas it immediately dropped back to
220. This was very sudden, which is
> contrary to what you were
seeing on your stock temp gauge. I'm thinking
> that this is due to
high discharge temps from the maxxed out turbos. I have
> no cats on
my car. If not, then would it be due to knock?? Why else
would
> the temps drop off so quickly? I do not have data logging
capability on
> this car. I don't know enough about these engines to
make any qualified
> conclusions. Maybe next time I'll try with and
without race gas to see if
> it makes a difference. BTW, I was
running 14.2 PSI on stock turbos.
>
> As for aftermarket gauges - I
have an Autometer mechanical water temp gauge
> and I like it a lot.
There is a spare opening next to where the stock water
> temp sensors
(two) are located. I just removed the plug and hooked up my
>
Autometer temp sensor. No problems. I cannot recall, but I may have
had to
> use a standard to metric converter.
>
> Oskar
>
'95 R/T TT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Merritt"
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Cc: <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>;
"Willis, Charles E."
> <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>;
"xwing" <
xwing@execpc.com>;
>
<
jczoom@iname.com>; "john Attebury"
<
jgunmann@hotmail.com>;
>
<
MikeVR4@aol.com>; "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>; <
sjc0u812@juno.com>;
> <
Dskull@aol.com>
> Sent: Wednesday,
July 26, 2000 10:39 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Running Hot
>
> >
One problem we had last weekend whilst running at Heartland Park was
high
> > temperatures. Whenever I would use a lot of boost, the
temperature gauge
> > would go sky high within a few laps..
>
>
> > I don't think this is a radiator/water pump problem, because
the temp
> would
> > go back to normal as soon as I started short
shifting and running in
> higher
> > gears. The temp would drop
back to normal in half a lap, simply because I
> > was not using as
much boost. I installed a new water pump last year. I'm
> > still
running stock boost, BTW.
> >
> > So, a few questions for
youse guys who run the autobahns or open tracking,
> > where you are on
full boost for long periods of time:
> >
> > Have you had a
similar overheating problem?.
> >
> > If so, did you do
anything to cure it?
> >
> > Any chance this could be related
to the cats? Could they be generating
> high
> > underhood
temperatures? Do those of you who have the problem still have
> > your
cats? If you do not have the problem, have you removed your cats?
>
>
> > I would like to install a real temperature gauge, perhaps in
the
> windshield
> > pillar pod with a boost gauge. Any
recommendations on what gauge to use
> and
> > where to attach
the temperature sensor?
> >
> > We had a big discussion about
this problem a year or so ago, which I
> > abandoned after I found I
had a bad water pump. Some of the solutions we
> > discussed at the
time included raising the back edge of the hood to allow
> > air flow,
installing a louvered hood, running Water Wetter in an all-water
> >
system, and so on. Has anyone tried these? Anything work?
> >
>
> I am also thinking about a boost controller and water injection, but now
I
> > wonder if I might make the overheating problem worse with more
boost.
> >
> > Help! It's getting tougher in the higher run
groups. When I run with
> lesser
> > cars in lower run groups, I
can short shift and use higher gears and still
> > stay ahead. But if I
try that in a higher run group, they are on me like
> > stink on poop.
I need to use boost to stay in front of these lesser cars.
> > To do
that, I gotta cool it down somehow.
> >
> > Rich/old poop/94
VR4
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 09:12:54
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oxygen Sensor Function
Hi Guys,
So the oxygen sensors in our
engines... I know the ECU monitors
their outputs, but what does it do with
the data? Does it adjust IDC
according to the output of the O2
sensors? i.e. If you're running lean (not
triggering the knock sensor),
will the ECU see the data from the O2 sensor
and increase IDC?
Also, this may seem like an obvious question, but will running
rich
over a period of time cause carbon buildup in the
cylinder?
Thanks!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 72,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV
CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
68,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 11:19:51
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oxygen Sensor Function
> So the oxygen sensors in our
engines... I know the ECU monitors
> their outputs, but what does it do
with the data? Does it adjust IDC
> according to the output of the
O2 sensors? i.e. If you're running lean
(not
> triggering the
knock sensor), will the ECU see the data from the O2 sensor
> and increase
IDC?
It dynamically adjusts the injector timing only at idle,
cruise, and partial
throttle. It'll try to maintain a reasonably
stoichiometric mixture as much
as possible, and record the trim values
required to attain that and use
those trims on the next startup.
At
wide-open-throttle, the ECU looks at the airflow sensor, barometric
sensor,
temperature sensor (and a host of other sensors, like coolant temp
and such),
pulls the appropriate injector values out of a static table,
performs a few
adjustment calclations and fires your injectors accordingly.
> Also,
this may seem like an obvious question, but will running rich
> over a
period of time cause carbon buildup in the cylinder?
To some extent,
depending on how rich you are running it. You have a
non-turbo car, so
the ECU doesn't run it nearly as rich as the turbo cars.
A prolonged rich
mixture can damage the catalytic converters, however.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 09:33:03
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oxygen Sensor Function
The ECU uses the O2 sensors in a
feedback loop to adjust the fuel
injector pulse width (the amount of time the
injectors fire) to
maintain a near-stoichiometric air-fuel ratio. The TMO
datlogger can
monitor this activity. There are 3 internal fuel-trim levels
that the
ECU maintains for closed loop (that is, the O2 feedback is
used)
engine operation. These are for low (idle), mid, and
high
RPM/air-flow levels. They are constantly updated to compensate
for
fuel quality and sensor wear conditions. At WOT the O2 information
is
not used and internal timing and fuel maps are used. When the O2
sensor
stops cycling, you are in an open-loop (internal map) mode.
For more detail
on the operation of the ECU and it's sensors check
out the TMO sites I have
listed on the huge Links Page at my web
site.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
Stealth 316
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Team3S
List'" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 27, 2000 10:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: Oxygen Sensor
Function
Hi Guys,
So the oxygen sensors in our engines... I know the
ECU monitors
their outputs, but what does it do with the data? Does it
adjust IDC
according to the output of the O2 sensors? i.e. If you're
running
lean (not triggering the knock sensor), will the ECU see the
data
from the O2 sensor and increase IDC?
Also, this may seem
like an obvious question, but will running rich
over a period of time cause
carbon buildup in the cylinder?
Thanks!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 72,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK, Mobil 1 10W30 w/ OEM oil filter, Skippy PCV
CC
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
68,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 13:10:11
-0400
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@iname.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Running Hot
Hi Rich,
Ouch!!!! Could be
trouble!!!!
See my prior posts on 'BUBBLES' It started at CMP in
November. Temp
would skyrocket then drop, then skyrocket and drop then
stay PEGGED.
Fluid would boil out.
My TT is downstairs in my
gargage with some components off while I find
time to get into the head
gasket area.
Let you know what I find.
In the meantime, look for
BUBBLEs in the overflow bottle when the engine
is warmed up. If Iowa
has an Emissions test, you could put the probe
near the overflow and check
for hydrocarbons.
Be of good
cheer,
John
Subject:
Team3S: Bubbles
To:
Stealth-3000GT <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Hi
all,
My TT boiled over at Putnam roadcourse.
Now I have bubbles
coming up thru the anitfreeze when the filler cap
near the plennum is
removed.
I have a blown head gasket, right??
No leaks in
hoses,etc. New thermostat, had radiator tested
and
cleaned.
There are more details, but that's the short
version.
Not of great cheer,
John
[snip]
Merritt
wrote:
>
> One problem we had last weekend whilst running at
Heartland Park was high
> temperatures. Whenever I would use a lot of
boost, the temperature gauge
> would go sky high within a few
laps..
>
> I don't think this is a radiator/water pump problem,
because the temp would
> go back to normal as soon as I started short
shifting and running in higher
> gears. The temp would drop back to normal
in half a lap, simply b
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph
Now with Porsche brakes & Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 12:27:00
-0500
From: "Kyle Meyer" <
kyle@logicaldirection.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine light coming on.
That fits the bad ECU
description perfectly... Mine progressed rapidly and
the RPM gauge bounced
around, the car stuttered, backfired, died, idled at
400 RPM if I was lucky,
etc. What error does the check engine light refer
to?
-
-Kyle
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Danny Erick
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 8:04 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Check Engine light coming on.
>
>
>
Thanks for all the help guys. I really hope the plugs and wires is all
it
> is. And not bad capacitators in the ECU. Driving it to the shop
yesterday
> the problem had gotten much worse. When leaving a stop sign
the car would
> stall if it wasn't at at least 3500 RPMS and then if it
did go it
> went VERY
> slowly until 2nd gear while jittering a lot.
=( But I'll keep you
> posted. Is
> there a way for them to check if
this is the problem before actually
> replacing them? And also what is the
best gap for the plugs?
>
> Dan Erick
> Red 92 Stealth
R/T
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 11:27:10
-0700
From: "Veilside GTO" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: KVR pads -any good-
Dennis,
I have the KVR rotors on
my VR4 and am not using their KVR pads. It squeaks
alot when u break. I just
use the stock VR4 pads from Mitsu.
Just thought I'd let you
know.
Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team
3S
Seattle, Washington
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Dg B
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 1:58 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: KVR pads -any good-
Hi folks!
I have a quick
question. I am looking for some new brake pads for my
car, and
one option that I ran across was KVR carbon fiber pads.
I know nothing of
these, and how well they perform against stock-ish rotors,
but would like
some opinions.
If they are carbon fiber, I would imagine that they would
be very harsh
against the rotors and take a while to "warm up".
Any
opinions? What other pads should I look at? My intended use is
purely
for street, but I do want something with more grip than the stock
pads.
Thanks again!
Regards,
Dennis
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:00:00
-0700
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: CD Manual (CAPS)
Well well well...
Seems like people
are out to steal from me eh! First my digicam... now
my server space? (Not
you Robert, but your problems tipped me off to
something much larger!) So
far, I have only told 3/S people where to
download the CAPS program
from...
Ok, no one is allowed FTP access to the CAPS program anymore, you
can
still get it through WEB ONLY
http://www.ecanfix.com/~gift/caps/Someone,
semi (un?)intelligent, decided it would be neat to give
themselves shell
access, and modify their .profile (which gave them
UNLIMITED storage space on
my server which was harddisk limited to
5gb. I could have lost my account, if
I didn't catch it when I did,
and they try to turn me into a dump site for
FXP transfers or what
not. They changed the "gift" password (which was caps),
so no one
could use the FTP way to download anymore.
I couldn't delete
the account through the www interface, due to some
stupid flaw about a user
not having a "name" cannot exist, so
therefore cannot be deleted. Hah! The
Ghost in the Machine!
However, since I'm a sysadmin, I could telnet in
and just rm -r the
stupid gift directory (but I moved the contents of the
CAPS program
back to where it's all good again... I hope).
Is anyone
having problems downloading the caps program? Robert is
complaining that
caps.r09 only downloads 180k/b before shutting
down... I can download the
whole file (5mb)!
So, mr/mrs IP address
pal1-core2-s3-0.starnetusa.net [216.126.145.33]
... NO SOUP FOR
YOU!
Vineet Singh - A little amused... only a little.
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Arrowood, Robert <
Robert.Arrowood@ingrambook.com>
To:
'Vineet Singh' <
gimmiemymanual@hotmail.com>
Sent:
Thursday, July 27, 2000 6:24 AM
Subject: RE: CD Manual
>
Vineet,
>
> I hate to be such a pain in the ass.......I deleted the
temporary
files and tried again but still only got 180kb. I attempted
to
> get the file by using your FTP link below but it keeps telling
me
password not allowed. I am going to attempt to get this from
>
another machine. Any other ideas?
>
> Well, I just tried it
from another machine and it also only
downloaded 180kb.
>
> This
is just my luck..........:^(
>
>
> Robert
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 11:44:48
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Re: CD Manual (CAPS)
I can provide a perm. place to put
this..without any danger of shell/space
issues on the team3s site.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Vineet Singh [
mailto:billi_gates@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Thursday, July 27, 2000 2:00 PM
To: Arrowood, Robert
Cc:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Re: CD Manual (CAPS)
Well well
well...
Seems like people are out to steal from me eh! First my
digicam... now
my server space? (Not you Robert, but your problems tipped me
off to
something much larger!) So far, I have only told 3/S people where
to
download the CAPS program from...
Ok, no one is allowed FTP access
to the CAPS program anymore, you can
still get it through WEB ONLY
http://www.ecanfix.com/~gift/caps/Someone,
semi (un?)intelligent, decided it would be neat to give
themselves shell
access, and modify their .profile (which gave them
UNLIMITED storage space on
my server which was harddisk limited to
5gb. I could have lost my account, if
I didn't catch it when I did,
and they try to turn me into a dump site for
FXP transfers or what
not. They changed the "gift" password (which was caps),
so no one
could use the FTP way to download anymore.
I couldn't delete
the account through the www interface, due to some
stupid flaw about a user
not having a "name" cannot exist, so
therefore cannot be deleted. Hah! The
Ghost in the Machine!
However, since I'm a sysadmin, I could telnet in
and just rm -r the
stupid gift directory (but I moved the contents of the
CAPS program
back to where it's all good again... I hope).
Is anyone
having problems downloading the caps program? Robert is
complaining that
caps.r09 only downloads 180k/b before shutting
down... I can download the
whole file (5mb)!
So, mr/mrs IP address
pal1-core2-s3-0.starnetusa.net [216.126.145.33]
... NO SOUP FOR
YOU!
Vineet Singh - A little amused... only a little.
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on CDROM
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Arrowood, Robert <
Robert.Arrowood@ingrambook.com>
To:
'Vineet Singh' <
gimmiemymanual@hotmail.com>
Sent:
Thursday, July 27, 2000 6:24 AM
Subject: RE: CD Manual
>
Vineet,
>
> I hate to be such a pain in the ass.......I deleted the
temporary
files and tried again but still only got 180kb. I attempted
to
> get the file by using your FTP link below but it keeps telling
me
password not allowed. I am going to attempt to get this from
>
another machine. Any other ideas?
>
> Well, I just tried it
from another machine and it also only
downloaded 180kb.
>
> This
is just my luck..........:^(
>
>
> Robert
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 11:59:09
-0700
From: "Steve Gula" <
mrelloco@eudoramail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: alternator / belt problem
Ole' nellie has a problem guys
:(
I was sitting in my car, still running and the stereo was
turning on and off... disrupting my Metallica, and I looked over to at the
battery guage and noticed it was at 8V... I turned off the stereo... the guage
went up a tad bit.. barely noticeable... I turn off the A/C... and it went to
13-14V .... I asked a coworker and he said it's either the alternator belt or
the alternator itself... he told me how to "debug" the problem, but that
required locating parts in the engine... I can locate more parts in a TT than my
engine.. anyways, any suggestions? thoughts? The car is at 56,XXX miles (no 60K
tuneup yet) and has a "new" battery (maybe 10,000 miles old).
- ---
-
------------------------------------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
(
loco3kgt@ec3s.org)
- --1995 Glacier
White Pearl 3000GT
- --License Plate : "BOWB4ME"
- ------------------
-
--East Coast 3000GT/Stealth
- --http://www.ec3s.org/
-
------------------------------------------------
Join 18 million
Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 16:10:01
EDT
From:
Zeoswolf@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Valve/cam timing, is that the problem?
ok here is the deal, i
did what you suggested becuase when i took it to the
dealership they told me
everything was 100% on point.. so i checked it
myself. here is what i
found. got the front cover off, no problem, rear
cover was a BITCH so
i just cocked it to the side and delt with it. i
couldnt get the marks
lined up exactically so i just did a *poor mans
version* of what steve did
and just counted the teeth from the marks. on the
front bank, each cam
was 5 teeth from the respective mark, perfectly set
becuase the teeth werent
exacting on the mark.. little deviation and both
were counting out
perfectly. here is what concerns me, the rear bank (having
NOT touched
anything and counting them right after the front bank) i noticed
that
the marks were 4 teeth apart with the direction of the deviation towards
the
front of the car. are both banks supposed to line up perfectly??
like
in my case, i counted 5 teeth from mark to mark, should the rear bank
be set
EXACTLY the same as the front or doesnt it make a difference just as
long as
the marks line up. ugh.. im sorry this is wierd to explain..
PLEASE SOMEONE
HELP ME ON THIS SO I CAN SUE THE DEALERSHIP FOR SCREWING MY
CAR UP IF THAT IS
THE CASE!!!!
james
94R/T
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 13:18:54
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: CD Manual (CAPS)
I do have to say what a wonderful
utility this CAPS program has been to me in the last few days...Hat's off to
you, Vineet! (Now If I can just get around to ordering my CD! Are they stil
available?)
Now on to the list content...I was able to download all files
seemlessly after the initial corruption issue was solved. Took me about 5
minutes!
Thanks again, Vineet!
Dan J
94 Stealth TT
Well
well well...
Seems like people are out to steal from me eh! First my
digicam... now
my server space? (Not you Robert, but your problems tipped me
off to
something much larger!) So far, I have only told 3/S people where
to
download the CAPS program from...
Ok, no one is allowed FTP access
to the CAPS program anymore, you can
still get it through WEB ONLY
http://www.ecanfix.com/~gift/caps/Someone,
semi (un?)intelligent, decided it would be neat to give
themselves shell
access, and modify their .profile (which gave them
UNLIMITED storage space on
my server which was harddisk limited to
5gb. I could have lost my account, if
I didn't catch it when I did,
and they try to turn me into a dump site for
FXP transfers or what
not. They changed the "gift" password (which was caps),
so no one
could use the FTP way to download anymore.
I couldn't delete
the account through the www interface, due to some
stupid flaw about a user
not having a "name" cannot exist, so
therefore cannot be deleted. Hah! The
Ghost in the Machine!
However, since I'm a sysadmin, I could telnet in
and just rm -r the
stupid gift directory (but I moved the contents of the
CAPS program
back to where it's all good again... I hope).
Is anyone
having problems downloading the caps program? Robert is
complaining that
caps.r09 only downloads 180k/b before shutting
down... I can download the
whole file (5mb)!
So, mr/mrs IP address
pal1-core2-s3-0.starnetusa.net [216.126.145.33]
... NO SOUP FOR
YOU!
Vineet Singh - A little amused... only a little.
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM
& 3/S Service manuals on
CDROM
!
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#215
*********************