team3s
Wednesday, July 26
2000 Volume 01
: Number
214
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:31:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Valve/cam timing, is that the problem?
Zeoswolf,
You
might want to do what I did and check the cam timing yourself as
Cody
suggested. It's not difficult. The front bank timing belt cover
lifts
right off after the bolts are removed. The back bank cover is a
little
more difficult if you want to remove it entirely; however, it can
be
lifted far enough out of the way after the bolts are removed to see
the
timing marks if you don't want to remove it entirely. I just
disconnected
the coil wires and then hit the ignition a bunch of times until
the marks
could be seen and then put the car in gear and pushed/rocked it
forward or
back until the marks on the front bank cams lined up.Then I
checked the
marks on the rear bank. A flashlight will help, particularly on
the rear
bank. See my post from earlier today for a description of what the
marks
and pointers look like (at least on my 93 Stealth
ES).
Steve
______________________________________
You start
with a bag full of luck
and an empty bag of experience.
The trick is to
fill the bag of
experience before you empty the bag of
luck. -
anonymous
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 21:53:30
-0700
From: "Bbizo" <
bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3" Active Exhaust?
The stock mufflers really blow. I replaced
mine with a Camoro/Firebird type
Flowmaster. I don't have the part number but
I can get it if your
interested. I punched another hole for the small port on
the muffler and
welded the whole thing in with new tips. It greatly reduced
back pressure
and made a wonderful rumble.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 21:56:44
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: 3" Active Exhaust?
We replaced ours with...nothing.
95 VR4
exhaust 4-sale.
>From convertor-back (comes with 'sport tuned' OEM
convertor *heh), uses stock 3"
pipe to back of car, then splits off into dual
3" pipes W/Stainless tips.
http://tgn.net/~gemohler/done.JPGIs
a prototype of what we have for sale, but with a MUCH better
Y-section.
SF/Bay Area only please..we aint shipping this...
Going
custom for racin' (can probly drop another 40lbs too)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bbizo [
mailto:bbizo@telisphere.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, July 25, 2000 9:54 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: 3" Active Exhaust?
The stock mufflers really blow. I
replaced mine with a Camoro/Firebird type
Flowmaster. I don't have the part
number but I can get it if your
interested. I punched another hole for the
small port on the muffler and
welded the whole thing in with new tips. It
greatly reduced back pressure
and made a wonderful
rumble.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 16:31:57
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: dead battery - suggestions?
Well, the original MOPAR battery in
my '94 TT finally died right at 80k miles.
Should I just replace it with a
stock Mitsu battery, or should I go for
something a little more interesting
(Optima, etc.)? Anyone have suggestions for
a battery that will fit in
the stock location with the stock mounting hardware?
Thanks!
Please
reply privately and I'll post a summary. Thanks!
- --
Jim
Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 09:27:22
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3" Active Exhaust?
> Were you able to eliminate the
annoying resonance the Borla produces at
cruising
> RPMs (2-3k)?
Roger spoke with some exhaust specialists a while back and
they
>
suggested that the mufflers used for this application are too small.
The
Borla
> does sound awesome, but this resonance is the main reason
I'd lean towards
the
> Greddy...
I don't think mine has a
resonance like what you are describing... I don't
think there's any
reason to cruise at under 3000 RPM though, so I don't
really spend much time
below 3000. I get worse fuel economy if I'm not near
3000-3500 RPM
where the engine is more efficient.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 15:43:16
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Locking rear diff
A friend just imported a '93 VR4 from Japan and
when you drive it slowly
on full lock the rear inside wheel locks every
couple of turns. This was
normal for a Starion I had fitted with a racing
diff (and annoying too)
but it doesn't happen with my '93 VR4 from
japan.
My question is this. Is there a racing diff available that might
be
fitted to the car causing this or is it more likely trouble with the
std
one?
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 16:14:04
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3" Active Exhaust?
"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:
>
> I'd
dump the stock exhaust completely. Get a high-flow cat and some form
of
> cat-back exhaust. I have the Borla setup and I can tell you
that it in no
> way sounds "wussy" or like a Honda, which is what I assume
you mean. It
> actually sounds nearly V8-like with the pre-cats
gutted and the high-flow
> cat on. On deceleration I get a nice
rumble, and a smooth low note while
> cruising. On hard acceleration
it sounds just plain mean. The stock
> exhaust sounds like a vacuum
cleaner and I'm glad my car doesn't have it on
> there
anymore...
Were you able to eliminate the annoying resonance the Borla
produces at cruising
RPMs (2-3k)? Roger spoke with some exhaust
specialists a while back and they
suggested that the mufflers used for this
application are too small. The Borla
does sound awesome, but this
resonance is the main reason I'd lean towards the
Greddy...
My
understanding is that unless the ENTIRE exhaust is upgraded from the
turbos
back, performance gains will be minimal. Therefore, if the
primary objective is
a more aggressive exhaust note, the best approach might
be to simply replace the
muffler as bbizo (I thought we were supposed to use
real names in here?)
suggests...
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 12:01:44
-0400
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@iname.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: The Shootout!
Hi all,
Sooooo upset that my TT is still
undergoing head gasket surgery in my
garage. I had planned on painting
Stealth logos on my '87 Park Ave so I
could be a cheering section, but that
broke too.
Good to hear we had a reasonable showing.
I'll be there
in 2001 to regain my second place status -- I can only
beat the Xwing for so
long.
Congrats to those who participated in the DSM Shootout.
Be
of good cheer,
John
[snip]
xwing wrote:
>
> DSM
Shootout 2000 is Done, and I think it was great!
>
> We almost
TRIPLED the number of 3S cars compared to last year,
> etc are ALL
planning to be at DSM Shootout 2001--So are YOU!!
> Pencil in your
calendar, it is always mid July!
>
> Jack Tertadian
>
>
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with
Porsche brakes & Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 11:46:18
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: 3" Active Exhaust?
Personally this resonance is a Mitsu
issue.
A car with THAT much sheet metal and no sound proofing is going to
be next to
impossible to design an exhaust wont resonate much IMHO.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Matthews [
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 26, 2000 7:14 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: 3" Active Exhaust?
"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:
>
> I'd dump the stock exhaust completely. Get a high-flow cat and
some form of
> cat-back exhaust. I have the Borla setup and I can
tell you that it in no
> way sounds "wussy" or like a Honda, which is what
I assume you mean. It
> actually sounds nearly V8-like with the
pre-cats gutted and the high-flow
> cat on. On deceleration I get a
nice rumble, and a smooth low note while
> cruising. On hard
acceleration it sounds just plain mean. The stock
> exhaust sounds
like a vacuum cleaner and I'm glad my car doesn't have it on
> there
anymore...
Were you able to eliminate the annoying resonance the Borla
produces at cruising
RPMs (2-3k)? Roger spoke with some exhaust
specialists a while back and they
suggested that the mufflers used for this
application are too small. The Borla
does sound awesome, but this
resonance is the main reason I'd lean towards the
Greddy...
My
understanding is that unless the ENTIRE exhaust is upgraded from the
turbos
back, performance gains will be minimal. Therefore, if the
primary objective is
a more aggressive exhaust note, the best approach might
be to simply replace the
muffler as bbizo (I thought we were supposed to use
real names in here?)
suggests...
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 12:01:55
-0700
From: "Red Stealth" <
stealth95red@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Vibration
Hi stealth/3000gt guru,
I have been
having some problem with my Stealth 95 base and would really
appreciate if
any one could help me out.
Car:
95 Stealth, base model with
Automatic transmission.
77K miles.
Symptom:
Engine/transmission
Vibration at 1000rpm - 1300rpm at stand still (0 mph).
A week ago when I took
it out of the dealer was vibrating at 1100-1500rpm (I
could be
wrong).
Background:
Transmission blown during a normal stop and go
city traffic.
Gear started dropping from 4 to 3 to 2 and finally first gear,
with free rev
(not engaged) in between. At the end, it has to be stop
for a few minutes and
restart the engine in order to move for about
100feet. Managed to performed
this until I reach the dealer which was
about 1/2 a mile away.
I had it replaced with a rebuild transmission at
the dealer but I notice the
abnormal vibration before I even move the car
from the shop.
The power seems to be slightly lag but the car does
run.
The dealer claim that it was my spark plugs or wires.
I then
replaced the rotor&cap, plugs and cables but the vibration was
still
there.
Questions:
1. Could I have screwed up the engine
when I forced the car to move when the
transmission was breaking
down.
2. Could the dealer screw up anything during the replacement
procedure?
3. Could it be the rebuild transmission?
4. At neutral
gear, it there any motion in the transmission?
what part of the transmission
are in touch with the engine flywheel?
5. What could I do?
Any
advise would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks
Henry.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 16:57:41
EDT
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: KVR pads -any good-
Hi folks!
I have a quick
question. I am looking for some new brake pads for my
car, and
one option that I ran across was KVR carbon fiber pads.
I know nothing of
these, and how well they perform against stock-ish rotors,
but would like
some opinions.
If they are carbon fiber, I would imagine that they would
be very harsh
against the rotors and take a while to "warm up".
Any
opinions? What other pads should I look at? My intended use is
purely
for street, but I do want something with more grip than the stock
pads.
Thanks again!
Regards,
Dennis
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 14:02:22
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: KVR pads -any good-
You should look at porterfield R4-S
pads.
You do NOT want CF pads on the street.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dg B [
mailto:dbretton@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 26, 2000 1:58 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: KVR pads -any good-
Hi folks!
I have a quick
question. I am looking for some new brake pads for my
car, and
one option that I ran across was KVR carbon fiber pads.
I know nothing of
these, and how well they perform against stock-ish rotors,
but would like
some opinions.
If they are carbon fiber, I would imagine that they would
be very harsh
against the rotors and take a while to "warm up".
Any
opinions? What other pads should I look at? My intended use is
purely
for street, but I do want something with more grip than the stock
pads.
Thanks again!
Regards,
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 17:06:37
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Out of office notice
Hello to the great List. I will be on
vacation and attending part of the
First Blue Ridge Gathering this
weekend. If you get any message from me
stating "I am out of the
office" just ignore it. Thanks and I'll be back
next week.
-
--Flash!
(a.k.a. Darren Schilberg)
dschilberg@freemarkets.com <
mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com>
3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 and K&N FIPK
http://www.ec3s.org/gallery.shtml
<
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:18:20
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: The Shootout!
Heh, don't worry about spelling my name
right, no one does :P Actually, I ran
12.678@105.93. That was with a 1.742 60'
and 8.085 in the 1/8th. I think the
red 1st gen ran 12.48 (chirping
second gear nicely) but he (don't recall the
name) has turbos and turned a
111 trap that I recall. I think a faster time
is within reach as I've
run as fast as 3 back-back 109s, but time will tell.
Enough about that. I had an awesome time and met the best people. I
even
learned more about my car (and other 3Ss) in the 3 days I was there than
any 3
month period I can recall. The track is gorgeous, easily the
nicest I've been
to. Did anyone mention the fast cars? I saw
Extreme's Mirage turn a high 9
at 149, Mike Simon's 4G63 (dsm engine)
powered, back-halved CRX with big
slicks and a wheelie bar turn a high 9, and
Pleboni's (sp?) Starion turn a
high 9 if I recall correctly, and of course
John Shepherd ran the 10.12 in a
mild appearing 1st gen DSM that someone said
is street-driven regularly.
Completely second hand info, don't kill me if
it's not. They've all run
quicker, but it was nice to seen them run
that fast. It's also more than just
racing, it's a great learning
experience and fun to meet everyone, including
the big names. It's also
pretty cool how much attention a VR4 gets in the
midst of cars that are 3
seconds faster, they're not exactly 'sleepers' :) It
even appears that
this hum-drum town has a wild night side to it if you know
where to look and
don't find out at the last minute. Anyone who is able to go
and doesn't
is truly missing out, this was the single most fun time I've had
with my
car. A small note: Anyone planning to attend should try to stay
at
the Econo Lodge nearest to the track. The DSM Shootout crowd
overtook the
hotel with an easy 50-60 cars there. There may have been a
handful of rooms
that were not DSMers and I think they were booked
solid.
More fun next year,
Jason
3rd place managing no better than
13.0 at 105 making .7-.8 bar... Then I
found the boost leak and all 3
passes afterwards were personal records with no
new
mods.
12.67
12.78
12.69
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:03:43
CDT
From: "Danny Erick" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Check Engine light coming on.
Thanks for all the help guys. I
really hope the plugs and wires is all it
is. And not bad capacitators in
the ECU. Driving it to the shop yesterday
the problem had gotten much worse.
When leaving a stop sign the car would
stall if it wasn't at at least 3500
RPMS and then if it did go it went VERY
slowly until 2nd gear while
jittering a lot. =( But I'll keep you posted. Is
there a way for them to
check if this is the problem before actually
replacing them? And also what
is the best gap for the plugs?
Dan Erick
Red 92 Stealth
R/T
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------------------------------
Date: 26 Jul 2000 18:13:55
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sealant conversions
I am finally starting to re-assembly my
engine and I was wondering if anyone knew the RTV sealant equivalent for the
following sealants mentioned in the service manual:
Valve covers:
3M ATD Part No 8660 or equivalent
Oil pan: Mitsubishi MD997110
sealant
Out of curiousity does anyone know why the factory manual
suggests bleeding valve lash adjusters with diesel fuel? I would think
that it would be better to use oil since diesel fuel is so thin.
I also
wanted to thank John Adams Garage for the Shifter boot installion guides.
I installed the black JC Whitney boot and it looks and fits great!
John
Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com1991 3000GT
VR4
soon to be back in
action...
_______________________________________________________________________
Free
Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now!
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 18:14:54
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
KVR pads -any good-
I have KVR carbon comp pads on my '94 and KVR
rotors. The pads I have are
not full blown carbon fiber but rather a
carbon composite -- different deal.
The carbon comp pads produce a fair
amount of dust, don't work great until
they are warmed up a bit and will
overheat from braking at high speeds (140+
mph down to 40 or so) or frequent
moderate speed slow-downs (120 mph down to
40 or so). They also squeal
now and then but not as bad as some (probably
superior stopping) setups
I have seen. Full-on race brakes tend to squeal
anyway -- fact of
life. Pad life is probably a little worse than stock, but
not
bad.
They work (for me) far better than stock but would likely not be
good for
heavy track use although I have used the combination under auto-X
conditions
and have zero complaints. After overheating they come back
very quickly and
once at operating temperature they don't fade unless they
are really abused
as mentioned above.
Some have apparently had
cracking problems with the KVR rotors. Mine have
not been raced on a
road course, but have seen some very high speed use.
They show no signs of
stress or abnormal wear. KVR claims the cracked ones
were by far the
exception rather than the rule. Hopefully they have
corrected any
problems they may have encountered if any problems
even
existed.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Dg B
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 1:58 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: KVR pads -any good-
>
>
> Hi
folks!
>
> I have a quick question. I am
looking for some new brake pads for my
> car, and one option that I ran
across was KVR carbon fiber pads.
>
> I know nothing of these, and
how well they perform against
> stock-ish rotors,
> but would like
some opinions.
>
> If they are carbon fiber, I would imagine that
they would be very harsh
> against the rotors and take a while to "warm
up".
>
> Any opinions? What other pads should I look at?
My intended use
> is purely
> for street, but I do want something
with more grip than the stock pads.
>
> Thanks
again!
>
> Regards,
> Dennis
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>
*** Info:
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***
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:25:19
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Heartland Park Report (very long!)
Can you offer more input how
the tires worked for you..wear..stickyness..etc?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:31:59
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Clutch Master Cylinder Repair?
-
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Subject:
Clutch Master
Cylinder
Repair?
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Over the past few days, I noticed the
clutch pedal on my '92 VR4 was
feeling spongy. Today, on the way home from
work, the pedal went all the
way to the floor, so I stopped at the nearest
bar to figure things out. I
checked the clutch master cylinder reservoir, and
it was empty. I checked
for leaks in the hydraulic system and found a trail
of fluid inside the car
on the driver's side. It looked like it was dripping
from the clutch pedal
pushrod and draining down the dead pedal and under the
carpet. So after a
few beers, I bribed someone to go to the store and get me
some brake fluid.
Then I filled up the reservior, pumped the clutch pedal a
few times until I
felt pressure, and was able to make it most of the way home
before the
pedal went to the floor again. One more refill and a few
pumps of the
pedal, and I made it the rest of the way home just before the
pedal went to
the floor again in my driveway. Then I had another few
beers.
I'm assuming that the master cylinder seals are bad. So here are
my
questions:
1) Is a clutch master cylinder repair kit available, or
does the master
cylinder have to be replaced.
2) Assuming the master
cylinder has to be removed, whether it has to be
replaced or kitted, is the
removal difficult?
3) I've replaced master cylinders on other cars before,
but I've seen posts
to this list that led me to believe that the clutch
hydraulics on our cars
are power assisted, which is something I've never
worked with before. Does
this propose any additional problems?
4) Is
repair or replacement of the master cylinder something I should
attempt, or
is this better left to a dealer?
Has anyone else had this problem before,
and can you give me any insight to
my questions? Am I making the correct
assumption that the clutch master
cylinder seals are bad?
Jeff
Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
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***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:46:28
EDT
From:
Zeoswolf@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Team 3S: half throttle more punchy??
does anyone seem to have a
punchier, quieter engine at like half or 3/4
throttle rather than slammed to
floor? i had my 60k done a month and a half
ago and this all started a
little while after that. i brought it back to the
dealership and they
tested it and said everything was 100% on point. any
ideas? and
now that i have installed my stillen hi flow intake with a k&n
filter,
it just seems to be loud as HELL now.. should it really be making
that big
of a difference in sound level? it is more powerful now with the
intake.. so it is making a difference not just noise. ANY
IDEAS!!!!??
james
94R/T
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 21:57:31
-0700
From: "Brandon Thomas" <
a3kgtlvr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: still backfiring
Hey guys I just spent over
seven grand rebuilding my engine and now it
is backfiring. When it was
rebuilt it got new plugs and I put on new wires
hoping it would fix the
problem but it didn't. It only does it when I
completly floor it and it
usually hapens around five thousand rpms. I would
really apreciate any
replies and thanks for helping me out.
Brandon Thomas
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:59:16
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Sealant conversions
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of John Monnin
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 6:14 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Sealant conversions
>
>
> I am finally
starting to re-assembly my engine and I was
> wondering if anyone knew the
RTV sealant equivalent for the
> following sealants mentioned in the
service manual:
>
> Valve covers: 3M ATD Part No 8660 or
equivalent
> Oil pan: Mitsubishi MD997110 sealant
Any good high
temp (600F+), non-hardening, silicone based sealant will do.
These are
readily available at Home Depot, AutoZone, Checker, probably
Target, and many
other places. Some sealants can adversely affect various
sensors
especially O2 sensors. Get the stuff that is labelled as
sensor
friendly to avoid any confusion. Read the package and see if
it
specifically says to not use with petroleum products. Most are fine
though.
Follow the curing directions and it'll be all good.
> Out
of curiousity does anyone know why the factory manual
> suggests bleeding
valve lash adjusters with diesel fuel? I would
> think that it would
be better to use oil since diesel fuel is so thin.
Diesel will allow air
to bleed out as it is thin. It will also act as a
detergent and it is
reasonably friendly to engine oil. Oil may allow proper
air bleeding as
it can (and will) trap air bubbles due to the much higher
viscosity. Do
NOT use gasoline as it will break down the oil. Although the
manual
recommends it, brand new ones should be fine without being bled as
they
usually arrive wrapped in a sealed plastic covering (mine did) pre-bled
and
filled.
Barry
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:16:26
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Team 3S: half throttle more punchy??
Part throttle openings are likely
going to be leaner since at WOT the ECU
pretty much just pukes fuel into the
engine. A rich mixture will not be as
lively as a leaner one. It
is also possible that at WOT the new filter is
running too lean (which could
also cause an apparent lag in performance) but
I doubt that's the
case.
The amount of flow through the system definitely affects volume and
tone of
the exhaust. An open element filter will usually be a lot
louder than the
stock airbox and it may howl at certain flow rates.
It'll most likely be
louder at higher rates.
Other than the change in
noise, which is totally expected, there doesn't
appear to be a real
problem. The ECU should be able to compensate for the
minor changes you
mention.
One possible problem with open filters on the vortex-style
airmeter is that
they can affect calibration. The vortex airmeter which
is stock on the VR4
is supposed to be very accurate. The accuracy
though requires that the
airflow pattern be predictable across its range of
oepration. Changing the
filter may cause the airflow pattern to change
enough that the airmeter no
longer is able to report accurate
measurements. If these inaccuracies are
small then the ECU will relearn
and adjust using fuel trim algorithms with
no real problem since degradation
of the airmeter and other sensors is
expected over time. If the
differneces are dramatic (one drive to the next
for instance) then it can
cause serious drivability issues.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> does anyone seem to have a punchier, quieter engine at like
half or 3/4
> throttle rather than slammed to floor? i had my 60k
done a month
> and a half
> ago and this all started a little while
after that. i brought it
> back to the
> dealership and they
tested it and said everything was 100% on point. any
> ideas?
and now that i have installed my stillen hi flow intake
> with a
k&n
> filter, it just seems to be loud as HELL now.. should it really
be making
> that big of a difference in sound level? it is more
powerful now
> with the
> intake.. so it is making a difference not
just noise. ANY IDEAS!!!!??
>
> james
>
94R/T
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:30:35
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Kuhmo tires
At 07:25 PM 7/26/00 -0700,
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
wrote:
>Can you offer more input how the tires worked for
you..wear..stickyness..etc?
>
The Kumhos stick very well. They appear
to be good for a second or more per
lap over the Yoko 032R tires. They are so
sticky that I would come off
track with other people's castoff tread embedded
in my tires.
I ordered them shaved, but Tire Rack didn't shave them, so
we had to deal
with some very strange wear patterns. The Kumhos have a big
tread block on
the outside edge, and that block wears like iron. But it tends
to squeeze
the first inner tread -- apparently squishing it up like a big
pimple under
hard cornering -- so it wears rapidly. If it had been shaved,
this
allegedly would not have happened. In any case, the tires look
something
like this now:
- -----______ where --- is the outside
tread block. Yeah, it's wearing more
inside than out. Go figure.
Many
racers say this is all perfectly normal, and the wear will even out.
Heartland Park is primarily left hand turns, so the right front
wears
something fierce. We moved it to the rear halfway through Saturday,
then
changed side to side on Sunday, trying to even out the wear. By the end
of
the weekend, most visible tread was worn off all four, leaving me
with
slicks. There is still plenty of tire left, judging by the wear bars,
but I
don't know how many events I'll get out of them. Certainly not
anywhere
near as much as the Yokos. On the other hand, racer lore says that a
shaved
tire will last longer than an unshaved tire, so maybe they will
stop
wearing so fast now that the excess tread has been scuffed off.
It is very weird to see a set of tires go through all their visible
tread
in 210 track miles, but such is the way of a racer's life I guess.
Without
tread, I certainly won't be able to use them in the rain, not like
the Yokos.
I am also going to dial in some more negative camber -- going
from the
present -1.5 deg to maybe -3 deg -- because Kumhos apparently like
more
camber.
The jury is still out on whether they are worth a second
a lap. The Yokos
wear great, work in the rain, and my old ones still have
some tread after
5+ events. If you are in doubt, you cannot go wrong with
Yoko 032R tires.
The acid test will be at the Hawkeye Downs autocross in
September (a half
mile paved oval plus an inner 1/4 mile paved oval and NO
PYLONs, except to
keep us in the low groove on the high banks). Last time, on
Yokos, I was
5th fastest out of 60+ Corvettes, and missed FTD by less than 2
seconds. If
the Kuhmos help me get FTD, they will be worth every cent. I
can't wait to
see the expression on the faces of the Corvette owners when the
Mitsu kicks
ALL their butts. AAARRRR!!!.
Rich/old poo/94
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:41:21
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Ohio and Michigan folks alert!
The Shelby club just opened up
their event due to lack of interest:
More registrants wanted for Shelby
Club Motor City Region's open track
this Monday 7/31 at Gingerman Raceway,
South Haven Michigan. At
this point, Ford power is not a requirement if
you want to leave your Shelby
in storage.
info at
http://www.saac-mcr.comJeff
Carlson
'96 SVT Mystic Cobra
Rich/old poop
***
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------------------------------
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#214
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