team3s              Sunday, July 23 2000              Volume 01 : Number 210




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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 18:29:24 PDT
From: "Ryan Meador" <captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny syncro question

Is my '93's 5-speed as prone to failure as the 6 speed getrags? You guys are
worrying me as a new (used) VR4 owner...


In this case it's easy to say " hell I can do that"  but the ring is a
hardened steel
truncated cone with a bronze/brass coating. The cost and development seem to
be
the big problem --- you have to develop, test and manufacture for a couple
of
hundred each. In addition if driven while bad too long, the face gears on
second
  get damaged so that needs to be replaced.

  The attached picture shows a close-up of a good/used 1st 2nd synchro.

         Jim Berry


<< synchrotest.jpg >>

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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 21:40:26 -0500
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Radio compatabilty

Does anybody know if a factory Infinity AM/FM, Cassette, CDPlayer out of
a 1999 3kgt SL will match up to the wiring harness of a 1992 SL. Also,
does the speaker grills pop off the front or must you remove the door
panels for speaker replacement on a 92? Thanks in advance.

- --



Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net



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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 19:46:19 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny syncro question

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Meador <captainrye@hotmail.com>

> Is my '93's 5-speed as prone to failure as the 6 speed getrags? You guys are
> worrying me as a new (used) VR4 owner...
=================================================

Ryan

The transmission synchros are a weak point, many people report problems with
the 1st/2nd synchros. The real problem lies in the fact that Mitsubishi doesn't sell
parts for the trans, instead they expect you to buy a new one [$5000].
There are places to buy reconditioned transmissions [ rebuilt with used parts ]
and recently an aftermarket supplier of 1st/2nd gear synchros. In addition there
are miscellaneous suppliers of bearings, seals and output shafts.
The problem is not solved but a solution is in sight..

        Jim berry

PS: don't dispair you've got a great car and help is on the way.


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Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 01:09:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny syncro question

No the wiring harneses are different. AMHIK.... You could take apart the
harnesses and wire it manually, but thats ALOt of work...

On Fri, 21 Jul 2000, Jim Berry wrote:

>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ryan Meador <captainrye@hotmail.com>
>
> > Is my '93's 5-speed as prone to failure as the 6 speed getrags? You guys are
> > worrying me as a new (used) VR4 owner...
> =================================================
>
> Ryan
>
> The transmission synchros are a weak point, many people report problems with
> the 1st/2nd synchros. The real problem lies in the fact that Mitsubishi doesn't sell
> parts for the trans, instead they expect you to buy a new one [$5000].
> There are places to buy reconditioned transmissions [ rebuilt with used parts ]
> and recently an aftermarket supplier of 1st/2nd gear synchros. In addition there
> are miscellaneous suppliers of bearings, seals and output shafts.
> The problem is not solved but a solution is in sight..
>
>         Jim berry
>
> PS: don't dispair you've got a great car and help is on the way.
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


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Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 12:59:21 CDT
From: "Danny Erick" <ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Check Engine light coming on.

Well guys, I ran into a new problem last night driving home from work. On my
way home I noticed the tachometer needle start to jump back and forth about
200-300 RPM in either direction whenever I gave the car any gas and the
Engine light would come on, but it would shut back off if I let the RPMs
drop back to about 1000. While it was doing this the car would also
occasionaly seem to have a very small loss of "pull" while driving so that I
could feel little jitters on my butt dyno =) And lastly, when I pulled in my
driveway and let the car idle the RPMs would just jump back and forth from
about 800-1300 RPM! Any one got any ideas? I'd really like to get this car
in a reliable condition so I can join the SCCA and get rid of my old car but
things just keep going wrong...
P.S. What does the "R/T" stand for? hehe...now you KNOW I'm a newbie.
Learning everything I can though. Thanks.

Dan Erick
Firestorm Red 92 Stealth R/T
K&N FIPK
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Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 21:46:37 +0300
From: 363 EARS/TANK121 <363EARS.TANK121@psab.af.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Check Engine light coming on.

Sounds like an ignition problem. Get new wires and plugs. And don't get
Accel brand wires. They make your tach bounce around just as you described
after about 5,000 miles...

Trevor
96 Firestorm Red R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon

- -----Original Message-----
From: Danny Erick [mailto:ttstealth@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 8:59 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Check Engine light coming on.


Well guys, I ran into a new problem last night driving home from work. On my

way home I noticed the tachometer needle start to jump back and forth about
200-300 RPM in either direction whenever I gave the car any gas and the
Engine light would come on, but it would shut back off if I let the RPMs
drop back to about 1000. While it was doing this the car would also
occasionaly seem to have a very small loss of "pull" while driving so that I

could feel little jitters on my butt dyno =) And lastly, when I pulled in my

driveway and let the car idle the RPMs would just jump back and forth from
about 800-1300 RPM! Any one got any ideas? I'd really like to get this car
in a reliable condition so I can join the SCCA and get rid of my old car but

things just keep going wrong...
P.S. What does the "R/T" stand for? hehe...now you KNOW I'm a newbie.
Learning everything I can though. Thanks.

Dan Erick
Firestorm Red 92 Stealth R/T
K&N FIPK
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Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 18:56:21 -0400
From: "Eddie" <stealth3@superservers.net>
Subject: Team3S: Engine stalling

Hello,
    Recently my car has been acting up.. Here is a description:

A few months ago, if I start the car when cold it is fine.
If I start it back up after being shut off (still warm) an hour later, it
will start, but the tach bounces between 300-700RPMS (every second). Once I
drive a block or so, it was fine..

Last week, I was driving on the interstate, and it died.

When I press down an 1" on the pedal it is fine
When I press down 2"-4" there is no power (it still runs, but no power, just
like at idle)
When I press down 5"+ (3/4 to full throttle) I have power again.

I unplugged the MAS and it fixed the problem! (ran like crap, but I had
power)
So I replaced the $400 MAS (mass air flow sensor) and it didn't correct the
problem!

Do you guys have any ideas here?

My check engine light has NOT came on!
I took off my Profec A boost controller, only mod is a K&N FIPK.

Thanks!

Eddie


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Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 13:59:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Valve/cam timing, is that the problem?

Hi All,

I'm new to this forum and so far have enjoyed and learned from the many
messages posted. I own a 1993 Stealth ES that I have had since it was new.
It's been an absolutely great car and in the past has only required minor
repairs, so it hasn't been much of a "test" for the abilities of my local
Dodge dealer's service department.

I've run into some problems recently following the 60,000 mile service.
Yesterday I posted my problem to the 3000GT/Stealth International Forum
and it was suggested that I contact Chrysler Customer Service. Before
doing that I would like to get some feedback on whether I'm on the right
track about the problem and then confront the sevice department at my
Dodge dealer one last time before going the customer service route. I
apologize if this post is a bit lengthly, but figure that anyone answering
should know the whole story before making a reply.

Just as background, I taken care of the few problems I've had with this
car immediately as they occur. I do my own oil and filter changes every
3000 miles, which has kept the engine running "as new" until recently as I
approached the 60,000 mile mark. As I approached this mileage, I started
to get some missing and a decrease in power, but I figured this was only
normal since that is the recommended mileage for new plugs and, of course,
a timing belt. Unfortunately, this is where my problems began. I took the
car into the dealer for this major service and after paying a hefty bill,
got my car back, again still running "as new" (So far so good).
Unfortunately, the dealer didn't mention that it would be a good idea to
install a new water pump and belt tensioner at the same time as the new
timing belt (I really should have thought of this myself, just too many
years away from this sort of work I guess), and after a couple of weeks,
the water pump started leaking and the tensioner "squeaking". Fortunately
(?), the car was still covered (just barely) by my original 7 year
Chrysler service contract, so I returned it to the dealer for the
necessary repairs. The new tensioner and water pump were installed;
however, it took two weeks and it was fairly clear that the mechanics
didn't enjoy having to work on the car. When they finally finished the
job, I drove the car home and discovered it no longer ran smoothly, lacked
power (felt like it was dragging a lead weight), and the exhaust note had
a "hollow" or "flat"  sound and was louder than normal under acceleration
(though this did not appear to be due to an exhaust leak). Upon further
inspection, I found that many of the cam and timing cover bolts were only
finger tight and that there was a dent in the oil pan that appeared to be
due to the engine being jacked up from underneath. As you might guess, I
was not a happy camper. After properly tightening all the loose bolts I
could find (the ones I couldn't get to and check worry me) I returned the
car to the dealer, but rather than make an issue out of everything, I
suggested that when the timing belt was reinstalled or retensioned after
the water pump installation that the mechanic probably didn't get the
valve/cam timing "spot on". Trusting soul that I am, I also marked the cam
and belt cover bolts so I would know whether or not they really took the
covers off to check and see if the valve/cam timing was right. Four days
later I got the car back again and was told that it was all just an
ignition timing problem, that they had taken the covers off and checked
the valve/cam timing and that was OK, and that the car now had plenty of
power (I guess they figured that telling me this would make it so). The
drive home revealed that all the problems were still present and the car
probably would have hard time out accelerating a Neon. When I checked the
engine after arriving home it was clear that neither the timing belt nor
cam covers had been removed (the marked bolts were still in exactly the
same position as when I took the car in).

So, would those of you with experience agree that the valve/cam timing is
the most probable source of the engine problems? Also, if anyone has a
suggestion for a good service shop within a few hundred miles of Auburn,
AL (e.g. Montgomery, Birmingham, Atlanta) I'd be very interested in
hearing about it. I wish I could take care of this problem myself. At
least then I'd know things were done right. While I used to do this sort
of work 25 years ago when I worked as a Citroen mechanic, I no longer have
all the tools necessary nor the experience on the newer engines with
timing belts and fuel injection.

Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions. If you'd prefer to
contact me "offlist" my e-mail address is below.

Steve Kempf
kempfsc@auburn.edu



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End of team3s V1 #210
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