team3s
Sunday, July 23
2000
Volume 01 : Number
210
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 21 Jul 2000 18:29:24 PDT
From: "Ryan Meador" <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny syncro question
Is my '93's 5-speed as prone to
failure as the 6 speed getrags? You guys are
worrying me as a new (used) VR4
owner...
In this case it's easy to say " hell I can do that"
but the ring is a
hardened steel
truncated cone with a bronze/brass
coating. The cost and development seem to
be
the big problem --- you have
to develop, test and manufacture for a couple
of
hundred each. In
addition if driven while bad too long, the face gears on
second
get damaged so that needs to be replaced.
The attached picture
shows a close-up of a good/used 1st 2nd
synchro.
Jim
Berry
<< synchrotest.jpg
>>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 21:40:26
-0500
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <
kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Radio
compatabilty
Does anybody know if a factory Infinity AM/FM, Cassette,
CDPlayer out of
a 1999 3kgt SL will match up to the wiring harness of a 1992
SL. Also,
does the speaker grills pop off the front or must you remove the
door
panels for speaker replacement on a 92? Thanks in advance.
-
--
Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 19:46:19
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny syncro question
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan
Meador <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
>
Is my '93's 5-speed as prone to failure as the 6 speed getrags? You guys are
> worrying me as a new (used) VR4
owner...
=================================================
Ryan
The
transmission synchros are a weak point, many people report problems with
the
1st/2nd synchros. The real problem lies in the fact that Mitsubishi doesn't
sell
parts for the trans, instead they expect you to buy a new one
[$5000].
There are places to buy reconditioned transmissions [ rebuilt with
used parts ]
and recently an aftermarket supplier of 1st/2nd gear synchros.
In addition there
are miscellaneous suppliers of bearings, seals and output
shafts.
The problem is not solved but a solution is in
sight..
Jim berry
PS:
don't dispair you've got a great car and help is on the
way.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 01:09:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny syncro question
No the wiring harneses are different.
AMHIK.... You could take apart the
harnesses and wire it manually, but thats
ALOt of work...
On Fri, 21 Jul 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ryan Meador <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
>
> > Is my '93's 5-speed as prone to failure as the 6 speed getrags?
You guys are
> > worrying me as a new (used) VR4 owner...
>
=================================================
>
> Ryan
>
> The transmission synchros are a weak point, many people report problems
with
> the 1st/2nd synchros. The real problem lies in the fact that
Mitsubishi doesn't sell
> parts for the trans, instead they expect you to
buy a new one [$5000].
> There are places to buy reconditioned
transmissions [ rebuilt with used parts ]
> and recently an aftermarket
supplier of 1st/2nd gear synchros. In addition there
> are miscellaneous
suppliers of bearings, seals and output shafts.
> The problem is not
solved but a solution is in sight..
>
> Jim berry
>
> PS: don't dispair you've got a great car and help is on the
way.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 12:59:21
CDT
From: "Danny Erick" <
ttstealth@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Check Engine light coming on.
Well guys, I ran into a new problem
last night driving home from work. On my
way home I noticed the tachometer
needle start to jump back and forth about
200-300 RPM in either direction
whenever I gave the car any gas and the
Engine light would come on, but it
would shut back off if I let the RPMs
drop back to about 1000. While it was
doing this the car would also
occasionaly seem to have a very small loss of
"pull" while driving so that I
could feel little jitters on my butt dyno =)
And lastly, when I pulled in my
driveway and let the car idle the RPMs would
just jump back and forth from
about 800-1300 RPM! Any one got any ideas? I'd
really like to get this car
in a reliable condition so I can join the SCCA
and get rid of my old car but
things just keep going wrong...
P.S. What
does the "R/T" stand for? hehe...now you KNOW I'm a newbie.
Learning
everything I can though. Thanks.
Dan Erick
Firestorm Red 92 Stealth
R/T
K&N
FIPK
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 21:46:37
+0300
From: 363 EARS/TANK121 <
363EARS.TANK121@psab.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check Engine light coming on.
Sounds like an ignition
problem. Get new wires and plugs. And don't get
Accel brand wires. They make
your tach bounce around just as you described
after about 5,000
miles...
Trevor
96 Firestorm Red R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Danny Erick [
mailto:ttstealth@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Saturday, July 22, 2000 8:59 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Check Engine light coming on.
Well guys, I ran into a new
problem last night driving home from work. On my
way home I noticed the
tachometer needle start to jump back and forth about
200-300 RPM in either
direction whenever I gave the car any gas and the
Engine light would come
on, but it would shut back off if I let the RPMs
drop back to about 1000.
While it was doing this the car would also
occasionaly seem to have a very
small loss of "pull" while driving so that I
could feel little jitters on
my butt dyno =) And lastly, when I pulled in my
driveway and let the car
idle the RPMs would just jump back and forth from
about 800-1300 RPM! Any
one got any ideas? I'd really like to get this car
in a reliable condition
so I can join the SCCA and get rid of my old car but
things just keep
going wrong...
P.S. What does the "R/T" stand for? hehe...now you KNOW I'm a
newbie.
Learning everything I can though. Thanks.
Dan
Erick
Firestorm Red 92 Stealth R/T
K&N
FIPK
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*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 18:56:21
-0400
From: "Eddie" <
stealth3@superservers.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine stalling
Hello,
Recently my car has
been acting up.. Here is a description:
A few months ago, if I start the
car when cold it is fine.
If I start it back up after being shut off (still
warm) an hour later, it
will start, but the tach bounces between 300-700RPMS
(every second). Once I
drive a block or so, it was fine..
Last week, I
was driving on the interstate, and it died.
When I press down an 1" on
the pedal it is fine
When I press down 2"-4" there is no power (it still
runs, but no power, just
like at idle)
When I press down 5"+ (3/4 to full
throttle) I have power again.
I unplugged the MAS and it fixed the
problem! (ran like crap, but I had
power)
So I replaced the $400 MAS (mass
air flow sensor) and it didn't correct the
problem!
Do you guys have
any ideas here?
My check engine light has NOT came on!
I took off my
Profec A boost controller, only mod is a K&N
FIPK.
Thanks!
Eddie
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 13:59:49
-0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Valve/cam timing, is that the problem?
Hi All,
I'm new to
this forum and so far have enjoyed and learned from the many
messages posted.
I own a 1993 Stealth ES that I have had since it was new.
It's been an
absolutely great car and in the past has only required minor
repairs, so it
hasn't been much of a "test" for the abilities of my local
Dodge dealer's
service department.
I've run into some problems recently following the
60,000 mile service.
Yesterday I posted my problem to the 3000GT/Stealth
International Forum
and it was suggested that I contact Chrysler Customer
Service. Before
doing that I would like to get some feedback on whether I'm
on the right
track about the problem and then confront the sevice department
at my
Dodge dealer one last time before going the customer service route.
I
apologize if this post is a bit lengthly, but figure that anyone
answering
should know the whole story before making a reply.
Just as
background, I taken care of the few problems I've had with this
car
immediately as they occur. I do my own oil and filter changes every
3000
miles, which has kept the engine running "as new" until recently as
I
approached the 60,000 mile mark. As I approached this mileage, I
started
to get some missing and a decrease in power, but I figured this was
only
normal since that is the recommended mileage for new plugs and, of
course,
a timing belt. Unfortunately, this is where my problems began. I took
the
car into the dealer for this major service and after paying a hefty
bill,
got my car back, again still running "as new" (So far so good).
Unfortunately, the dealer didn't mention that it would be a good idea
to
install a new water pump and belt tensioner at the same time as the
new
timing belt (I really should have thought of this myself, just too
many
years away from this sort of work I guess), and after a couple of
weeks,
the water pump started leaking and the tensioner "squeaking".
Fortunately
(?), the car was still covered (just barely) by my original 7
year
Chrysler service contract, so I returned it to the dealer for
the
necessary repairs. The new tensioner and water pump were
installed;
however, it took two weeks and it was fairly clear that the
mechanics
didn't enjoy having to work on the car. When they finally finished
the
job, I drove the car home and discovered it no longer ran smoothly,
lacked
power (felt like it was dragging a lead weight), and the exhaust note
had
a "hollow" or "flat" sound and was louder than normal under
acceleration
(though this did not appear to be due to an exhaust leak). Upon
further
inspection, I found that many of the cam and timing cover bolts were
only
finger tight and that there was a dent in the oil pan that appeared to
be
due to the engine being jacked up from underneath. As you might guess,
I
was not a happy camper. After properly tightening all the loose bolts
I
could find (the ones I couldn't get to and check worry me) I returned
the
car to the dealer, but rather than make an issue out of everything,
I
suggested that when the timing belt was reinstalled or retensioned
after
the water pump installation that the mechanic probably didn't get
the
valve/cam timing "spot on". Trusting soul that I am, I also marked the
cam
and belt cover bolts so I would know whether or not they really took
the
covers off to check and see if the valve/cam timing was right. Four
days
later I got the car back again and was told that it was all just
an
ignition timing problem, that they had taken the covers off and
checked
the valve/cam timing and that was OK, and that the car now had plenty
of
power (I guess they figured that telling me this would make it so).
The
drive home revealed that all the problems were still present and the
car
probably would have hard time out accelerating a Neon. When I checked
the
engine after arriving home it was clear that neither the timing belt
nor
cam covers had been removed (the marked bolts were still in exactly
the
same position as when I took the car in).
So, would those of you
with experience agree that the valve/cam timing is
the most probable source
of the engine problems? Also, if anyone has a
suggestion for a good service
shop within a few hundred miles of Auburn,
AL (e.g. Montgomery, Birmingham,
Atlanta) I'd be very interested in
hearing about it. I wish I could take care
of this problem myself. At
least then I'd know things were done right. While
I used to do this sort
of work 25 years ago when I worked as a Citroen
mechanic, I no longer have
all the tools necessary nor the experience on the
newer engines with
timing belts and fuel injection.
Thanks in advance
for any advice or suggestions. If you'd prefer to
contact me "offlist" my
e-mail address is below.
Steve Kempf
kempfsc@auburn.edu***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#210
*********************