team3s
Tuesday, July 18
2000
Volume 01 : Number
205
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
17 Jul 2000 19:57:14 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dimensions of timing belt tool
I finally have most of the parts
to finish 4-bolt main conversion on my 91 VR-4. One problem I tried to
order the timing belt tensioner pully tool MD998767 but the dealership said it
would probably take 3 weeks. Being impatent I am going to fab a tool in
the machine shop at work. The only problem is that I need to know the
distance of the square socket to the two pins. Since this tool is
torqued, getting the dimensions wrong will mess up accuracy of torque
measurement.
Can someone with the timing belt tool md998767 measure the
critical dimension and email me privately?
I also wanted thank Jerome at
Tallahasse Mitsubishi. I got a very large part order on time, correct and
for a reasonable price. I called for prices 4 times and Jerome was always
helpful.
I was comparing the new valve lash adjusters with the original
ones in my heads, the hole in the top of the adjuster must be at least 5 times
bigger. Hopefully this will end the valve clatter. When I complete
the 4-bolt main coversion I will post pictures showing the different parts side
by side.
I also will have several used parts for. The 2-bolt main
block had valve marks on all the pistons and one of the main bearings wore just
enough to leave light marks on the crank. Since 91 cranks are not Nitride
coated, the crank can be ground down and used with oversized bearings.
All
parts from a 1991 VR-4 with 68K miles
1) 2 bolt main block with slightly
worn crank shaft. Cylinder walls look great, there is almost no ridge at
top of cyclinders and you can still see original crosshatched hone marks.
2)
Oil pan for 2-bolt main twin turbo. One flange has been bent
slightly but it should be easy to bend back.
3) Set of 6 connecting rods. The
rods appear to be in great condition but I can have them inspected by machine
shop, I might be able to have them shot-peened too, if interested I will
price.
4) Waterpump with only 20K miles on it
Again e-mail me
privately if interested I will make a good deal on these parts.
John
Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com1991 VR-4
with soon to be completed mods.
gutted precats (easy when engine is
out)
4-bolt main block conversion
balanced fuel injectors
ACT street
clutch
_______________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 20:27:41
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Clutch problem continues...
Well I replaced the clutch master
cylinder ($120 and 4 hours of my time...)
and that did nothing to solve the
problem. So my guess is that it is the
release cylinder that is causing
this problem. I also can't shake the
feeling that maybe the booster
could be causing the problem. Is this
characteristic of a problem with
one of the cylinders or the booster?
Thanks,
Chris
92 R/T
TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 17, 2000 12:20 PM
Subject: Clutch problem
continues...
> Well, I just bled the clutch and took it for a
drive. It felt fine for
> about 3 blocks and then the problem that I
was talking about started
again.
> The problem is that the engage point
for the clutch moves. Sometimes it
is
> near the floor and other
times it is much higher up. It's almost like
there
> is air in
the system and perhaps there is. It worked fine RIGHT after I
> bled
it but feels the same after about a mile. Is it possible that air
is
> being introduced into the line somewhere? Perhaps a bad clutch
master
> cylinder or booster? This is very
troublesome...
>
> Thanks again,
> Chris
> 92 R/T
TT
>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 22:39:24
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Resurfacing drilled rotors
Without discussing my choice in rotors, how do
I go about resurfacing my
scored cross drilled rotors? Can they be
turned?
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 22:52:41
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dimensions of timing belt tool
> I finally have most of
the parts to finish 4-bolt main conversion
> on my 91 VR-4. One
problem I tried to order the timing belt
> tensioner pully tool MD998767
but the dealership said it would
> probably take 3 weeks.
Miller
Tool has nearly all the Mitsubishi special tools (as well as those of
other
manufacturers) and usually has them in stock. The last known
good
number I have for them is 248-478-5200, but I haven't called them in a
while
(year or two?).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 04:04:15
GMT
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Best method for Gutting precats
What is the best method for
gutting the precats on our cars? I take it it is
more than just punching a
hole through the middle of them. Is it really
necessary to remove all of the
material inside?
Any advise info?
Thanks
Greg G
92 RT
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 21:02:58
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Dimensions of timing belt tool
> Miller Tool has nearly all the
Mitsubishi special tools (as well as those of
> other manufacturers) and
usually has them in stock. The last known good
> number I have for
them is 248-478-5200, but I haven't called them in a while
> (year or
two?).
>
============================================
I got a
part from Miller [ 1-800-801-5420 ] about 9 months
ago.
Jim Berry
***
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 07:00:30
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: What the hell is wrong with the VR4gearbox anyway??
Driver
error? I guess VR4 drivers just suck, so that's where my problem
is... I recently replaced my tranny a few months ago. Sure, I race
the car and I launch hard, that's not going to affect the synchros. I DO
NOT speed shift, in fact after a recent outing a friend made fun of my slow
shifting. On the other hand, while driving on the street I accidentally
grinded, who's never done that? Well, now my 1st-2nd gear synchro is
messed up and the car doesn't want to go into first gear sometimes. This
is exactly how it acted, and a similar cause, as when I replaced it last.
It only lasted for 2 days of driving last time and I've been driving like this
for over a week now. At least Getrag will be nice enough to throw in a
tranny with a synchro purchase.
I don't think Nissan intended my first car, a
Sentra wagon, as a gut-wrenching sports car even though I drove it like one and
it never needed a tranny after grinding gears. In fact, I don't think it
ever needed a tranny and was retired at 200k miles due body damage.
Maybe
Mazda did intend my second vehicle, an SE-2000 extra cab pickup to be a
gut-wrenching sports car, but again, it never needed a tranny after
grinding a gear. It did need a tranny after many miles, but I'd say that
was more to do with trying to grab second gear, get it sideways, or
offroading.
Maybe I'll just move on to another car, to become a better
driver of course.
Jason
Daniel Jett wrote:
> I agree that
the transverse mounting of our engines is less than ideal, but the transmission
doesn't care what direction it is mounted. As was brought up by Rich, the
synchro issue is the Achilles heal, so to speak.
>
> I do think
driver input has a lot to do with tranny failure. I am on my second Turbo, and
have yet to encounter ANY transmission related failures. I am not typically
aggresive when launching, and I pay particular attention to matching rev's, and
not power shifting/slamming the transmission into gear. Had I been more
aggresive, I would not be surprised if my tranny failed.
>
> I don't
thnk anyone will argue that getting parts/service has been the bane of our
transmissions.
>
> Dan
>
> >>> <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com> - 7/17/00
9:58 AM >>>
> Geoff,
>
> I beg to
differ.
>
> The weak link is most definitely the lack of aftermarket
service/support
> pertaining to these trannies. Period.
>
---
>
> This was brought up in a pvt. Email I got as
well.
>
> Simple answer. It was never in Mitsubishi's best
interest to deliver a
> gut-wrenching sports car (even tho the platform IS
capable of it with only minor
> OEM adjustments that would have barely
impacted dealer cost), so it follows that
> it is again not in Mitsu's
best interest to support or acknowledge ANY form of
> aftermarket parts
availability (even if it was possible via the parts counter)
>
>
Case in point: The MK4 crowd enjoys the fact that a Toyota dealer went out
of
> thier way (With company support) in outsourcing full replacement
parts for the
> Getrag boxes in thier cars. Whereas -we- have
had to absorb the R&D.
>
> Cars in our segment have had more
fortune with their stock transmissions than
> ours, up to and including
Porsche AWD systems, by Getrag. The numbers, I'm sure,
> speak for
themselves.
> ---
>
> Is that car also a transversly mounted
system? Thats where the main difficulty
> lies im
sure.
>
> Now that we are finally getting a little more
support/parts/service, things are
> getting better. You bring up an
interesting point about the driver issue,
> though. I do believe that the
driver has a lot to do with premature tranny
> failure, and for those of
us who are "nice" to our transmissions, we probably
> see more longevity.
However, I think the same can be said with any make/model of
> car.
The level of abuse that our trannies can support, I think, is much less
>
than our counterparts.
> ---
>
> Which is why I bring up the
design of our 'counterparts'. Transversly mounted
> trannies
just..are a horrible design to begin with. Im sure the Porsche
started
> out as a proper design before they did AWD, where the VR4 is
still a weak FWD
> car, with wow..a hacked together RWD
add-on.
>
!
!
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:00:23
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What the hell is wrong with the VR4 gearbox anyway??
A
Porsche 911 Turbo has 4wd and more power and they're gearbox doesn't
break if
it's driven hard. I agree that Getrag has a reputation for
making strong
'boxes but the rate of breakage in the VR4 is simply too
great to be driver
related. It's very obviously a substandard product
and not made for any sort
of power. The car only has around 300bhp to
deal with and the relevent
torque. The simple fact is that it is not
hard to make a gearbox that can
take that power and the abuse without
breaking. Other manufacturers do it
(Skyline, etc). As for Mitsubishi,
they make a gearbox for the Lancer EVO VI
and it has the same (and more)
bhp and in general will attract the type of
driver that will give it
even more abuse and they don't break
either.
I'm surprised Mitusbishi haven't figured a way of sorting it out.
I
guess they didn't sell enough VR4's to care.
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> The weak link is the driver.
>
> I
know that sounds bad..but its true.
>
> The target market for the
VR4 was not the race crowd.
>
> All things being equal, Getrag
builds a TOUGH gearbox...we could have ended
> up
> with a
Mitsubishi built one ya know.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gordon Tyrrell [
mailto:gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com]
>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 7:00 AM
> To: gto
> Subject: Team3S:
What the hell is wrong with the VR4 gearbox anyway??
>
> Can
someone tell me exactly what the weak component in the VR4 gearbox
> is?
And why the hell is it not possible to just get it replaced with a
>
better quality part?
>
> I had gearbox work done on an MR2 turbo
for a faulty synchro but decided
> to get the whole thing worked over
while it was apart. The place I used
> didn't use Toyota parts but all
were of a higher grade then std. This
> isn't rocket science and parts for
these things are made by size
> normally and not specifically for one
model of car (I'm sure some bits
> are car specific). The likes of
bearings etc are sized as far as I know.
>
> Surely it's possible
to go to a good gearbox repair shop and just get
> higher grade kit fitted
to the 'box and then tune to your hearts
> content.
>
> Don't
flame me here. I'm just confused about how a company can have a
> car out
for almost 10 years with a gearbox that's a bag of shit and not
> have
come up with some solution????
>
> *** Info:
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***
>
> *** Info:
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***
>
> *** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 08:18:33
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Best method for Gutting precats
> What is the best method
for gutting the precats on our cars? I take it it
is
> more than just
punching a hole through the middle of them. Is it really
> necessary to
remove all of the material inside?
Yup, remove it all... If you
don't, it'll delaminate over time and large
chunks will get stuck in the exit
holes of the pre-cats, and the smaller
pieces will get stuck in your main cat
(if you keep it) or in the mufflers.
It is in no way an easy job - its very
dirty and difficult to drill out the
stuff.
I swapped my turbos to
15G's and did the pre-cat "cleanup" at that point
which made it a ton easier
since both pre-cats are off the car. I put 'em
in a large vise and went
at them with a large drill bit (I used a concrete
boring bit, others have had
success with a spade bit for drilling wood).
After I got enough holes punched
through it, I used a large wood chisel to
break apart sections of the
material and then used a big plier to grab the
chunks and pull them
out. Make sure your chunks are small enough that you
can pull them out
the opening. The front pre-cat is relatively easy, the
rear one is a
PITA.
The dust from those things is platinum and some sort of
ceramic/metal
composite. DO NOT BREATHE THIS STUFF!!!!! Very bad
stuff, probably
cancer-causing. If you decide to leave the rear pre-cat
on the car when you
do the work, you should obtain aa good pair of safety
gogles that seal and a
breathing mask. Don't risk your health!
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 07:41:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air/vacum ports
-
--0-719885386-963931289=:2997
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Disposition: inline
Mikael,
I'm
guessing the ports are after the throttle plate. They must be
sensitive to
pressure and vacuum as well. As far as the engine and
emmissions are
concerned , I don't think it matters much what the
conditions are before the
TB (BOV excepted). The attached picture is
not at the correct angle to see
the roof of the TB, but I don't
remember any other holes in front of the
plate besides the IAC ports.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT
- modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: "Team3S list" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, July 17, 2000 3:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Air/vacum
ports
Hi
On the intake manifold there is three air/vacuum ports
located near
the throttle body.
Do those ports reads both pressure and
vacuum or just pressure? (in
other words, are the ports positioned before or
after the throttle
plate?)
/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/-
--0-719885386-963931289=:2997
Content-Type: image/pjpeg;
name="throttlebody.jpg"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
base64
Content-Description: throttlebody.jpg
Content-Disposition: inline;
filename="throttlebody.jpg"
----------------binary coding snipped--------------
-
--0-719885386-963931289=:2997--
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 07:28:39
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Car Covers.
Michael,
Anything with Kimberly Clark
Evolution 4 fabric will suffice. Great fit and breathability.
Dan
J
94 Stealth TT
>>> "Michael S. Steinebach" <
mikala.s@home.com> 07/17 2:43 PM
>>>
What do you guy's recommend for a car cover... I bought a 30
dollar POS and
rain went right through
it.
!
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 06:32:10
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Car Covers.
Michael,
Anything with Kimberly Clark
Evolution 4 fabric will suffice. Great fit and breathability.
Dan
J
94 Stealth TT
>>> "Michael S. Steinebach" <
mikala.s@home.com> - 7/17/00 2:43 PM
>>>
What do you guy's recommend for a car cover... I bought a 30
dollar POS and
rain went right through
it.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 05:47:19
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Car Covers.
Michael,
Anything with Kimberly Clark
Evolution 4 fabric will suffice. Great fit and breathability.
Dan
J
94 Stealth TT
>>> "Michael S. Steinebach" <
mikala.s@home.com> - 7/17/00 2:43 PM
>>>
What do you guy's recommend for a car cover... I bought a 30
dollar POS and
rain went right through
it.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 08:41:14
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Clutch problem continues...
I have replaced both clutch
cylinders (master & slave) and still have similar
experiences.
Sometimes it just feels like the clutch does not completely
disengage.
Lloyd Wihl sent a post June 2 saying he too had the problem and
replaced the
clutch. He said the pressure plate 'fingers' showed
noticible
wear. His problem returned a few weeks after the clutch
replacement however.
About the only thing that folks haven't tried (or at
least reported on) was
replacing the clutch vacuum booster. Maybe the
1st gen's boosters degrade after
time.
Also, the clutch master
cylinder should have cost about $77 from one of the
list's discount Mitsu
dealers (Connicelli, Tallahassee, Norco, etc.).
good
luck,
Ken
> Well I replaced the clutch master cylinder ($120 and 4
hours of my time...)
> and that did nothing to solve the problem. So
my guess is that it is the
> release cylinder that is causing this
problem. I also can't shake the
> feeling that maybe the booster
could be causing the problem. Is this
> characteristic of a problem
with one of the cylinders or the booster?
>
> Thanks,
>
Chris
> 92 R/T TT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
> To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 12:20 PM
> Subject: Clutch problem
continues...
>
> > Well, I just bled the clutch and took it for
a drive. It felt fine for
> > about 3 blocks and then the problem
that I was talking about started
> again.
> > The problem is that
the engage point for the clutch moves. Sometimes it
> is
>
> near the floor and other times it is much higher up. It's almost
like
> there
> > is air in the system and perhaps there is.
It worked fine RIGHT after I
> > bled it but feels the same after about
a mile. Is it possible that air is
> > being introduced into the
line somewhere? Perhaps a bad clutch master
> > cylinder or
booster? This is very troublesome...
> >
> > Thanks
again,
> > Chris
> > 92 R/T TT
> >
>
>
*** Info:
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***
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 09:10:00
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What the hell is wrong with the VR4gearbox
anyway??
Whoa!!!
Check / reread your messages, I hope you're not
impling that I said Driver error is the main culprit in the demise of our
trannies!
Dan J
>>> Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com> - 7/18/00 1:00 AM
>>>
Driver error? I guess VR4 drivers just suck, so that's
where my problem is... I recently replaced my tranny a few months
ago. Sure, I race the car and I launch hard, that's not going to affect
the synchros. I DO NOT speed shift, in fact after a recent outing a friend
made fun of my slow shifting. On the other hand, while driving on the
street I accidentally grinded, who's never done that? Well, now my 1st-2nd
gear synchro is messed up and the car doesn't want to go into first gear
sometimes. This is exactly how it acted, and a similar cause, as when I
replaced it last. It only lasted for 2 days of driving last time and I've
been driving like this for over a week now. At least Getrag will be nice
enough to throw in a tranny with a synchro purchase.
I don't think Nissan
intended my first car, a Sentra wagon, as a gut-wrenching sports car even though
I drove it like one and it never needed a tranny after grinding gears. In
fact, I don't think it ever needed a tranny and was retired at 200k miles due
body damage.
Maybe Mazda did intend my second vehicle, an SE-2000 extra cab
pickup to be a gut-wrenching sports car, but again, it never needed a
tranny after grinding a gear. It did need a tranny after many miles, but
I'd say that was more to do with trying to grab second gear, get it sideways, or
offroading.
Maybe I'll just move on to another car, to become a better
driver of course.
Jason
Daniel Jett wrote:
> I agree that
the transverse mounting of our engines is less than ideal, but the transmission
doesn't care what direction it is mounted. As was brought up by Rich, the
synchro issue is the Achilles heal, so to speak.
>
> I do think
driver input has a lot to do with tranny failure. I am on my second Turbo, and
have yet to encounter ANY transmission related failures. I am not typically
aggresive when launching, and I pay particular attention to matching rev's, and
not power shifting/slamming the transmission into gear. Had I been more
aggresive, I would not be surprised if my tranny failed.
>
> I don't
thnk anyone will argue that getting parts/service has been the bane of our
transmissions.
>
> Dan
>
> >>> <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com> - 7/17/00
9:58 AM >>>
> Geoff,
>
> I beg to
differ.
>
> The weak link is most definitely the lack of aftermarket
service/support
> pertaining to these trannies. Period.
>
---
>
> This was brought up in a pvt. Email I got as
well.
>
> Simple answer. It was never in Mitsubishi's best
interest to deliver a
> gut-wrenching sports car (even tho the platform IS
capable of it with only minor
> OEM adjustments that would have barely
impacted dealer cost), so it follows that
> it is again not in Mitsu's
best interest to support or acknowledge ANY form of
> aftermarket parts
availability (even if it was possible via the parts counter)
>
>
Case in point: The MK4 crowd enjoys the fact that a Toyota dealer went out
of
> thier way (With company support) in outsourcing full replacement
parts for the
> Getrag boxes in thier cars. Whereas -we- have
had to absorb the R&D.
>
> Cars in our segment have had more
fortune with their stock transmissions than
> ours, up to and including
Porsche AWD systems, by Getrag. The numbers, I'm sure,
> speak for
themselves.
> ---
>
> Is that car also a transversly mounted
system? Thats where the main difficulty
> lies im
sure.
>
> Now that we are finally getting a little more
support/parts/service, things are
> getting better. You bring up an
interesting point about the driver issue,
> though. I do believe that the
driver has a lot to do with premature tranny
> failure, and for those of
us who are "nice" to our transmissions, we probably
> see more longevity.
However, I think the same can be said with any make/model of
> car.
The level of abuse that our trannies can support, I think, is much less
>
than our counterparts.
> ---
>
> Which is why I bring up the
design of our 'counterparts'. Transversly mounted
> trannies
just..are a horrible design to begin with. Im sure the Porsche
started
> out as a proper design before they did AWD, where the VR4 is
still a weak FWD
> car, with wow..a hacked together RWD
add-on.
>
!
!
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
!
!
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 09:28:12
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Help -Tranny output shaft
I have an open 5 speed on my workbench ---- I'm
not sure what you're trying to
describe. Have you seperated the casings
??? There is an allen bolt holding the
rear of the casing to the input
shaft !!
More detail is
required.
Jim
Berry
> Oops. OK. I was stupid enough to open the 5-spd tranny
to see if we could
> change the output shaft ourselves. On the shaft
casing there are like 2 Allen
> screws or pins...
> Anyone know
exactly how to open or remove the casing from the shaft without
> the
whole thing exploding with springs?
> BTW, my tranny & Syncros still
all look perfect. I have 119,000 miles on my
> car and I did race it.
That's a nice surprise too.
> Arty 91 VR-4
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#205
*********************
team3s
Wednesday, July 19
2000 Volume 01
: Number
206
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 18 Jul 2000 09:40:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What the hell is wrong with the VR4 gearbox anyway??
Thats
the whole idea Gordon.
Anyone who overdrives something..will break
it.
Again, the car's intended audience was not -us-.
Call it
indirect driver error..because we -know- what breaks it.
-
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:52:37
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Marshalltown on July 19--cancelled
POSTPONED
Nobody responded
to this message anyway...but just in case you were
planning to show up and
surprise me, it's been postponed until next week.
Let me know if you are
interested. (Curt: If you passed this along to the
Quad City folks, please
pass this one along too.)
Rich
-
------------------------------
POSTPONED TO JULY 26
We will be running
laps at the Marshalltown Go-Kart track in Marshalltown,
Iowa on Wednesday,
July 19, from 10 am to 5pm. $50 gets you all the laps
you can stand.
It's a great chance to see what your 3000GT/Stealth can do on a race
track
under non-racing conditions.
No rules, no pylons, no
sanctioning clubs, no nothing -- except you gotta
have a helmet and sign a
waiver. We'll have some instructors from the
Porsche and BMW clubs on hand to
help. We usually have 10-15 cars, so it's
never crowded. You can literally
lap as much as you like. I usually run 75
laps, doing about 15-20 at a
time.
Marshalltown is a 0.6 mile paved track that's about 25 ft wide and
has 12
turns, mostly lefts. We run it in 2nd or 3rd gear in 42 seconds, for a
55
mph average speed. Top speed is about 70-75.
For more on the
track, including a track photo and layout, go to
http://www.bestofiowa.com/ia-intl-raceway/index.htmlMarshalltown
is in the middle of Iowa, about 5 hours away from everywhere
- -- Kansas
City, Minneapolis, Milwaukee, Chicago and St. Louis.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:42:28
EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Tranny output shaft - OK Done.
Thanks folks. Jim Berry good info.
Tks
Arty 91 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 15:35:15
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Regarding the DSM shootout and 3000GTs...
Just so everyone knows, there
isn't going to be an "official" 3000GT class.
However, we can run in the
brackets. Brackets, my favorite! Just thought you
guys would like
to know, kinda seems pointless to even go now.
Jason
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 15:30:28
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: What the hell is wrong with the VR4 gearbox
anyway??
It's just my opinion, but I think it doesn't
have a thing to due
with overdriving the car. I think the DSMs do
better with Mitsubishi
trannies. Sure, there may be a few with serious
tranny problems, but
I'll bet there are more VR4s with synchro problems (at
least as a % of
the number of cars out there) and as far as racing goes,
they're running
9s and several 10s. They can also buy individual parts
and can get
whole trannies for under $2000. Our car has 320 HP bone
stock, it was
intended to be driven hard at some point, but that's not even
where the
problems lies. I'm going to call it a design flaw and I'm
sure a lot of
owners of unmodified, unraced cars will agree, it's junk.
Even if
Getrag built it to a lower standard because it wasn't intended to
be
raced, should we expect a lower quality product, we should at least
be
able to get the one damn part to fix the car when it goes bad.
Getrag
has one heck of a reputation, Porsche, BMW, Supras, and many others
I'm
sure and I have yet to hear about regular synchro problems with
them.
Aside from the crappy synchros I think the trannies are great, at
least
on the 94 and newer vehicles. I've got 116k miles, original
transfer
case and I launch from 5-7k RPMs and the car is fine, but I miss
one
shift on the street and the tranny is shot, nice. Was the
audience
intended to be perfect drivers who baby 320 HP AWD cars? I'd
think they
should have *offered* an automatic tranny if it wasn't meant to
be
driven hard, kinda like a BMW, but wait, they use Getrags
too...
I also think that if the cars were from a
manufacturer that gave a
rats ass about its customers things might be a
little different, but
this is Mitsubishi we're talking about. The same
Mitsubishi that all
but refused to recall the AWD DSMs for transfer case
leaks, even after
several cases of locked transfer cases and at least one
death. If I'm
right, they subsequently withdrew reps from the DSM
mailing list because
Mitsubishi was "forced" by the list to do the
recall. They didn't even
start the recall until 97 I think, 7 years
after the first DSMs were
produced. Hmm, what would they have to gain
for taking things into
their own hands? We represent a very small
portion of the cars that
were purchased and they have nothing that even
compares to the VR4, or
even turbo DSMs now. Even if we loved
Mitsubishi we might never buy
another car from them as there is no other
choice that would fit our
'profile'. It be more money lost and I don't
think they could use
anymore bad publicity. If anything were to happen,
it would have to
come from us, anyone know any lawyers?
Geoff Mohler
wrote:
> Thats the whole idea Gordon.
>
> Anyone who
overdrives something..will break it.
>
> Again, the car's intended
audience was not -us-.
>
> Call it indirect driver error..because we
-know- what breaks it.
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
> | Get your
FREE Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
> |
accounts@speedtoys.com. Include
preferred name and |
> | password (hey..its free,
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>
|
plus a 40Mb quota to
boot).
|
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 15:06:11
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Regarding the DSM shootout and 3000GTs...
> Just so
everyone knows, there isn't going to be an "official" 3000GT
class.
>
However, we can run in the brackets. Brackets, my favorite! Just
thought
you
> guys would like to know, kinda seems pointless to even go
now.
Eh? I thought Jack talked to Buschur about it and he said he'd
run the 3/S
class again. ???
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:23:50
EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Feel a popping in clutch pedal
In a message dated 00-07-16
18:38:34 EDT, you write:
<< Lately I've felt a sort of popping or
notch in the clutch pedal. i can
sort
of hear it but it's not
loud. Another wierd thing is that sometimes the
engage point for
the clutch changes. For example, when I sit at a
stoplight, the
engage point is near the floor. When I gas the car such
that
boost is positive, the engage point gets further away from the
floor. Also,
say I am at a stoplight, if I pump the clutch pedal
till I feel resistance a
few times, the engage point gets further from
the floor. >>
I just got on email today after a few days lapse -
just now joining the
discussion.
Your problem sounds exactly like the
behavior of my clutch prior to
replacement a few months back on my '91 VR4.
I had quite a bad popping or
notch, but it only happened as the pedal moved
away from the floor - pushing
the pedal down to the floor was
smooth.
My mechanic said the notch problem was in the pressure plate of
the clutch
itself. I got a chance to look at the old pressure plate and it
was badly
worn on the spring "fingers" where the throwout bearing makes
contact
(similar to an earlier posting). I believe this is a problem that
develops
with a bad (squeaky) throwout bearing, thought I don't know if the
worn
fingers cause the popping action or if it is simply some other part of
the
pressure plate mechanism that wears out over time.
One thing you
might do is have a buddy help you try to locate exactly where
the popping
noise is coming from. With the engine off and the hood up, you
could tell
that the "pop" came from the area of the clutch itself. It was
amazing how
it sounded and felt like it was coming from the pedal (or master
cyl.)
itself while sitting in the driver's seat, but once you get out and
stick
your head into the engine bay you can hear the noise coming from the
clutch.
I did have occasional problems with the engage point moving.
Almost as if the
clutch wasn't completely disengaging as you said. I had the
clutch bled the
first time it happened about 2 years ago. This solved the
problem for 5 - 6
months before it started happening again. It was was
usually at the beginning
of the day, I'd pump the pedal a few times, and
It'd be good the rest of the
day.
I was contemplating having the
clutch bled again when the "popping" issue
started getting worse and I had
the new clutch installed. The new clutch has
been perfect for about 1 1/2
months. The engage point and popping seemed to
be unrelated. I know the
popping was a problem with the pressure plate, and I
suspect that the
floating engage point is air in the system which was bled
during the new
clutch install.
Paul Klusman
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: 18 Jul 2000 19:13:10
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dimensions of timing belt tool
Thanks for the replys, Miller
Tool 1-800-801-5420 had the timing belt tensioner tool for about $17 and they
shipped same day. That was a lot easier than trying to make a
tool.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
> > Miller Tool has nearly all the Mitsubishi special tools (as well
as those of
> > other manufacturers) and usually has them in
stock. The last known good
> > number I have for them is
248-478-5200, but I haven't called them in a while
> > (year or
two?).
> >
>
============================================
>
> I got a part from
Miller [ 1-800-801-5420 ] about 9 months ago.
>
> Jim
Berry
_______________________________________________________________________
$1
million in prizes! 20 daily instant winners.
AltaVista Rewards: Click here
to win!
http://shopping.altavista.com/e.sdc?e=3_______________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:10:29
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Regarding the DSM shootout and 3000GTs...
That's what I thought
too, and why wouldn't they? Haven't they had 3S classes
before and how
hard would it be? Why change it now, particularly because we're
bound
to have more cars show every year.
At any rate, I didn't ask about the
Auto-X specifically, but it looks like we
can only participate in Bracket
racing at the drag race. Pretty disappointing
to me, and I'm pretty
sure AAM won't be showing for this exact reason.
"Jannusch, Matt"
wrote:
Eh? I thought Jack talked to Buschur about it and he said
he'd run the 3/S
class again. ???
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:21:28
-0400
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Regarding the DSM shootout and 3000GTs...
Uhh .. anyone know the state of
this? Jack? I'm thinking of taking the
trip to run the car on
Friday (have other stuff to do this weekend) but I'm
not going to go and
watch my DSM friends get to run while I watch :).
Mark
'93 R/T
TT
At 03:06 PM 7/18/2000 -0500, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>> Just so
everyone knows, there isn't going to be an "official"
3000GT
>class.
>> However, we can run in the brackets.
Brackets, my favorite! Just thought
>you
>> guys would like
to know, kinda seems pointless to even go now.
>
>Eh? I
thought Jack talked to Buschur about it and he said he'd run the
3/S
>class again. ???
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:27:10
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dimensions of timing belt tool
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Monnin"
<
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
> I
finally have most of the parts to finish 4-bolt main conversion on
my 91
VR-4. One problem I tried to order the timing belt tensioner
pully tool
MD998767 but the dealership said it would probably take 3
weeks. Being
impatent I am going to fab a tool in the machine shop at
work. The only
problem is that I need to know the distance of the
square socket to the two
pins. Since this tool is torqued, getting the
dimensions wrong
will mess up accuracy of torque measurement.
>
> Can someone with
the timing belt tool md998767 measure the critical
dimension and email me
privately?
>
Just an FYI... There are two tools recommended
for tensioning: Part
number MD998752-01 is the tensioner pulley socket
wrench, and the other
is part number MD990767-01, which is the end yoke
holder. See Rich
Leroy's write up on our website for more info -
MD990767-01 is a
redesign, and a lousy one at that. You might have been
better off
making your own: :-)
www.stealth-3000gt.st/60k.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:48:35
-0700
From: "aa2345" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Tires Question
Hello Team,
I have a "Turbo and High-Tech
Performance Magazine" (Aug 99 issue) and have
found several tires which seem
at a god price to me. These tires are all
for a 94 TT with tire size
245/45ZR-17. Here they are:
Yokohoma A520 $128
Nitto NT-500Z
$144
Nitto-555 Extreme ZR Extreme Performance $149
Michelin XGT Z
$125
The contact phone number if you want to order any tires is:
888-916-3211
(Discount Tires Direct). Can you guys let me know if these
are good prices.
If not, what are some good prices, and where can I get them
from?
Also, most important, which tires should I stay away from?
I
know this question has been tackled before, so in order not to bother
the
entire list, please reply privately.
Thanks in
advance,
Mike.
94 Pearl Yellow TT
Detroit Metro Area,
Michigan.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:50:46
-0700
From: "aa2345" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Boost Controller?
Hello Team,
I am looking for a boost controller
for a 94 TT. I know there are several
that 3SI members are using, so I
was just wondring which one of the 3 do you
guys reccomend based on what you
have/know:
1) Blitz Dual Solenoid Boost Controller (HKS -->I think
this company makes
it) -- I think $300, but from where?
2) AVC-R (made
by APEXI) ~$600
(Actuator Valve Controller Pipe-R)
3) Greedy Rebic IV
$???
4) Super AFC (made by APEXI) ~$400
(Super Air Flow Converter)
--> I know this is not a boost controller, but
what is this and how
necessary is this toy?
Also ... for as long as I have been on this list,
I never noticed anybody
talk about aftermarket ECU's/chips. Are there
any available for the TT,
like for the 300ZX or Supra?
Thanks
again guys.
Mike.
94 Pearl Yellow TT
Detroit Metro Area,
Michigan.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:36:10
-0700
From: "Francis Morice" <
fas3@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S:
SAVC-R
I have a question regarding the set up for the SAVC-R. I have mine
installed
and have noticed a strange phenomenon. Today while in third
gear at about
3500 rpm I went to WOT and saw the boost as normal peak at
about 16psi(water
injection) and like normal fall off to about 12 psi around
4500rpm, and then
to my surprise shoot back up to 15psi at which point I
think I experienced
fuel cut. Wondering what could have caused the
boost to creep up like that
again. I have noticed this in 4th gear, but not
to the extent of my
experience today.
Any ideas? Also what is a good site
for an explanation on how to set up this
BC.
Thanks in
advance,
Francis
96 RT/TT(
12.98@105.50)
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 00:43:59
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Regarding the DSM shootout and 3000GTs...
I got curious when I
checked out the classes and saw no mention of us. I then
emailed Tym
Switzer last Friday. After hearing nothing, I finally called
Buschur
Racing (not toll free btw) and was told by someone there that there
would not be
an official class but we could run in brackets. Just
wanted to make sure you
understood where I got the info
from.
Jason
Mark wrote:
> Uhh .. anyone know the state
of this? Jack? I'm thinking of taking the
> trip to run the
car on Friday (have other stuff to do this weekend) but I'm
> not going to
go and watch my DSM friends get to run while I watch :).
>
>
Mark
> '93 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:47:54
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Regarding the DSM shootout and 3000GTs...
Buschur is just
afraid of Jack, Arty and Mike...
He doesn't want a 3000 to show and "fix
him"
Brad
Check out my online store at:
http://www.turboimports.comCheck out
my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jason Barnhart
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 8:44 PM
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Regarding the DSM shootout and 3000GTs...
I got curious when
I checked out the classes and saw no mention of us. I
then
emailed
Tym Switzer last Friday. After hearing nothing, I finally
called
Buschur
Racing (not toll free btw) and was told by someone there
that there would
not be
an official class but we could run in
brackets. Just wanted to make sure
you
understood where I got the
info from.
Jason
Mark wrote:
> Uhh .. anyone know the
state of this? Jack? I'm thinking of taking the
> trip to run
the car on Friday (have other stuff to do this weekend) but
I'm
> not
going to go and watch my DSM friends get to run while I watch
:).
>
> Mark
> '93 R/T TT
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:45:57
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost Controller?
> 1) Blitz Dual Solenoid Boost
Controller (HKS -->I think this company makes
> it) -- I think $300,
but from where?
Nope, Blitz makes the Blitz controller. ;-) A
lot of people use them,
seems like there's a little guesswork involved to get
a particular boost
pressure achieved though.
> 2) AVC-R (made by
APEXI) ~$600
> (Actuator Valve Controller Pipe-R)
Not as many
people have these yet. Can control boost at different RPM's,
which
would be nice if you had a beefed-up FWD car, but since you are on
this list
you have AWD with your turbo. Mounting the display can
be
"interesting". Price is very high.
> 3) Greedy Rebic IV
$???
Rebic is the injector controller and isn't typically used on our
cars (we
generally upgrade to larger injectors and a higher flow fuel pump
instead).
They have the PRofec and PRofec-B for boost controllers.
PRofec-A can be
finicky in its learning mode. Its been around a LONG
time with no update -
other controllers have surpassed it. PRofec-B
doesn't work well with small
turbos, which we have stock.
There's
another choice - the HKS EVC-IV controller. It is very untolerant
of
anything "funky" with your boost control system or boost leaks, but
if
everything is in order it works pretty well overall. It is also
expensive.
It displays boost on the controller and is of the "fuzzy-logic"
type,
meaning that it compensates for changes in weather and such to help you
stay
at your boost target without manual adjustments.
> 4)
Super AFC (made by APEXI) ~$400
> (Super Air Flow
Converter) --> I know this is not a boost
controller,
but
> what is this and how necessary is
this toy?
Adjusts the air flow signal getting to the ECU to trick it into
injecting
less/more fuel into the cylinders. Realistically, you are
better off with
something like the Split-Second ARC-2GP or HKS VPC since the
adjustability
range of the S-AFC is a little short when you pop in big
injectors. Nice
display on it, though, and you can rig it up to show
air/fuel ratio. Either
of the two other solutions have the benefit of
getting rid of the stock MAF
sensor, which is fairly restrictive at higher
flow rates and can be
"overrun" by too much airflow and give erroneous
readings. The VPC is the
least restrictive, essentially converting the
intake into an open pipe with
a filter on the end. The ARC-2 sets you
up with a hotwire-type meter with a
large pipe and a minor restriction in the
middle.
> Also ... for as long as I have been on this list, I never
noticed anybody
> talk about aftermarket ECU's/chips. Are there any
available for the TT,
> like for the 300ZX or Supra?
For the most
part, you don't need an aftermarket ECU. G-Force has ECU
modifications
for these cars, but I don't think it is a good investment
since you pay a lot
of money for one setup and as soon as you upgrade
something else then your
ECU map might no longer be optimal. Adjustability
isn't there, but is
with other solutions (ARC-2 and to a lesser extent the
VPC).
Take a
look at the upgrade stages on
www.3si.org
(under "Mods") to get an
idea of when some of this stuff is
recommended. Starting with a boost gauge
and a boost controller is a
good start. Then you probably want to open up
the exhaust a bit, and
consider larger turbos and fuel injectors at about
the same time if you feel
you need more horsepower. I was happy with my car
at the boost
controller and full exhaust level for about a year, and then
decided to go
with 15G turbos, 550cc injectors, Denso fuel pump, and ARC-2
fuel controller
to get it all tweaked in. If you want to go much farther
than that,
expect to break expensive parts on a regular basis and spend a
fair amount of
time "tweaking".
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:53:31
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Regarding the DSM shootout and 3000GTs...
> I got curious
when I checked out the classes and saw no mention of us. I
then
>
emailed Tym Switzer last Friday. After hearing nothing, I finally
called
Buschur
> Racing (not toll free btw) and was told by someone
there that there would
not be
> an official class but we could run in
brackets. Just wanted to make sure
you
> understood where I got
the info from.
That really sucks bad. Too late to back out, as I
wanna have the vacation
anyways. Ugh. I asked about the autocross
and haven't heard anything back
yet. Last year Oskar and I were able to
run in the same class as the DSM's
(and I took second place). Hopefully
that'll be the case again this year,
otherwise we might as well just head out
to Cedar Point for the day on
Saturday and return for the Import Nationals on
Sunday and then lay down the
law. ;-)
Jack, are you
around? Any influence on making a class happen for us if we
get more
cars than last year? Last year there were only three of us, but
we
really should* have more this year. If we don't, I'll be
sad.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 23:54:34
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Regarding the DSM shootout and 3000GTs...
> Buschur is
just afraid of Jack, Arty and Mike...
> He doesn't want a 3000 to show and
"fix him"
If you guys can run mid-9's, I'd love to see that!
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 01:10:16
EDT
From:
Zeoswolf@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: stillen hi-flow intake vs k&n filter charger
hello
everyone,
as my first post on the Team3S mailing i thought i
might start out with a
good question. which air intake is the best one
to get for our cars?
stillen's hi-flow air intake or k&n's filter
charger (FIPK)? thanks
james
94R/T
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 07:41:56
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost Controller?
"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:
>
> >
2) AVC-R (made by APEXI) ~$600
> >
(Actuator Valve Controller Pipe-R)
>
> Not as many people have
these yet. Can control boost at different RPM's,
> which would be
nice if you had a beefed-up FWD car, but since you are on
> this list you
have AWD with your turbo. Mounting the display can be
>
"interesting". Price is very high.
I installed the new version (big
blue display) in a friend's car and was quite
impressed with its
capabilities. We decided to run the cables for the display
into the
center armrest console (Stealth mode - the display does fit it the
space in
front of the cup holder tray), and the cable is long enough to pull
the
display out and stick it on the dash with velcro when desired.
I
have the previous model, and despite the impressive array of features
offered
by the new one, I don't plan to switch. The old one is "fire
and forget" and
handles boost control perfectly. If you're interested
in simplicity and good
performance, you may want to opt for this model (if
you can find it - they're
apparently in high demand now that they're not
being made any more). BTW,
switching between settings is as easy as
pressing a button, vs. going through
attention-demanding menus on the new
model.
Regarding the comparison of controllers, note that some have
built-in boost
gauges, others don't. If you decide to buy one that has
no gauge, you MUST get
an external gauge, either permanently mounted (usually
on the windshield pillar)
or temporarily mounted for occasional
monitoring. Note that I've checked the
readings on my AVC-R with an
analog gauge several times and it's been right on
the money. I think
the Blitz dual turbo timer has a built-in gauge (with peak
hold, too), so
that may be another option.
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 07:55:10
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires Question
aa2345 wrote:
>
> Michelin XGT
Z
$125
I suspect this was a sale price. If they're still selling them
this cheap, let
me know! Typical price from the discount tire mail
order places is about $185.
Tire Rack was selling them for $125 earlier this
year, but they were sold out
before the magazines came out with the ad!
I have 30k miles on my XGT-Z4s and
am quite happy with their year-round
performance; I'd buy them again. Good
luck!
- --
Jim
Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:00:07
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: stillen hi-flow intake vs k&n filter
charger
> as my first post on the Team3S mailing i thought
i might start out with a
>good question. which air intake is the
best one to get for our cars?
>stillen's hi-flow air intake or k&n's
filter charger (FIPK)? thanks
None of both ... you can get
the K&N FIltercharger for 2nd gen DSM for much
less money and it is
bigger and does the same !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:06:49
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost Controller?
I just add my $0.02 as Matt already said
the important stuff.
> > 1) Blitz Dual Solenoid Boost Controller
(HKS -->I think this company makes
> > it) -- I think $300, but from
where?
The DSBC is around $469 !
> > 2) AVC-R (made by
APEXI) ~$600
> > (Actuator Valve
Controller Pipe-R)
>
>Not as many people have these
yet.
Well, I would say that there are many people who have it ... but
only a few
who use the potential.
Price is around $569
> >
3) Greedy Rebic IV $???
As already said, this is not a bosot
controller.
> > 4) Super AFC (made by APEXI) ~$400
>
> (Super Air Flow Converter) --> I know this is not a
boost controller,
>but
> > what is this and how
necessary is this toy?
It is only good for smaller fuel injector
upgrades.
> > Also ... for as long as I have been on this list, I
never noticed anybody
> > talk about aftermarket ECU's/chips. Are
there any available for the TT,
> > like for the 300ZX or
Supra?
Our cars do not have a chip that simply can be changed so a new
ECU or a
replacement must take place. I have the G-Force but only to change
the rev
limiter and lock the fuel map to only one. Changing the timing may
help a
little but this is somewhat critical.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 04:30:30
-0700
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: CAPS! - Download now!
Well, I deleted the VIPER video's, so I had
some space to finally
upload the OFTEN asked for "CAPS" program.
This
neat little dealer tool tells you *part names and part #'s*
(Mitsubishi), and
often even has diagrams and pictures! It covers all
vehicles from 1990 to
1999 I believe, and there are instructions on
how to use it.
It's
*ALREADY INCLUDED* on all the newest "SPECIAL EDITION" 3/S and
DSM CD's, and
is about 100 megabytes.
So if you have a 28.8-56k, be very patient
because Mitsubishi might
come out with a replacement for the vr4 before you
get all the files!
:) hehe (not)
Some screen shots are on the manual
CD site, there is a custom setup
program made by me for installing it (it had
a weird cryptic way of
installing it before, when I first got it from a DSM
friend).
Unzipped, it's nearly 400mb. I've tested the files, but if you have
a
problem, please email me right away.
Please don't ask me about
"updates", because I can't get them right
now. Ok, now on to how to download
the sucker...
Instructions can be had
here,
http://www.ecanfix.com/~gift/caps/readme.txt-
--============================================--
You can point your www
browser here for *HTML
download*
http://www.ecanfix.com/~gift/caps/-
--============================================--
Or if you would
prefer, an *FTP download* with these settings,
-
--============================================--
Server=
www.ecanfix.comPort=21
Login=
gift
Pass=
caps
/web/caps is the directory everything is in.
-
--============================================--
Or even *easier*,
put this into your www browser,
and it will download using it's built in FTP
capabilities (if it
has
it)
ftp://gift:caps@www.ecanfix.com/web/caps/-
--============================================--
Remember to *RIGHT
CLICK* and "SAVE AS" to save the files, otherwise
you might get garbage
(these are all binaries).
Have fun, see some of ya at the SHOOTOUT (I
will be in the Blue 92'
Stealth RT/TT with BBS rims)
(*PLEASE don't
forward this to any other list(s) yet*... I want to do
it slowly so my server
doesn't get flooded with too many transfers at
once, next week, Starnet and
the DSM list.., Thank you for your
understanding.)
Vineet Singh -
about to get all his sites canned for overusage of
bandwidth...
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With
Class!" (updated)
http://www.eaglecars.com - Hehe, I remade
the old Chrysler/Eagle site!
http://www.forcedperformance.net -
Made this one too... Robert rocks!
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S
Service manuals on CDROM
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 02:52:36
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: stillen hi-flow intake vs k&n filter charger
- ----- Original
Message ----- From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
> as my first post on the Team3S mailing i thought i might start
out
with a
> >good question. which air intake is the best one
to get for our cars?
> >stillen's hi-flow air intake or k&n's
filter charger (FIPK)? thanks
>
> None of both ... you
can get the K&N FIltercharger for 2nd gen DSM for
much
> less money
and it is bigger and does the same !
>
> Roger > 93'3000GT
TT (Switzerland)
>
www.rtec.chRoger means "neither" in his
answer to your question, but I'd like to
expand on that, and disagree
slightly... Even if the K&N DSM FIPK is an
equal to the 3/S FIPK,
or bigger(?), if you have to take your car to
pass US emissions standards and
you get a PITA emissions tester, they
can give you a hard time. The
FIPK is the only one that comes with a
numbered CARB sticker, which is
acceptable in all 50 states as an
aftermarket replacement filter
system. But that CARB number matches the
car, and it's in their
computers and guide books. If your CARB number
matches a 2-liter
Eclipse, you'll fail, if they want to be difficult.
As to Stillen (or
anybody) vs. K&N: Last year, Chris Winkley posted
the results
of some test of the various filters-- K&N FIPK was not only
the
best *at filtering*, it was the best by a substantial margin.
(Chris' HKS
Super Flo intake didn't fare very well). And the FIPK had
the second or
third highest marks for airflow - almost as high as the
Stillen, which lets
through LOTS of dust into your engine, compared to
almost no dust with the
FIPK.
IMO..., stick with the FIPK-- specifically, the 3/S FIPK #
57-1500 if
you must deal with emissions
testers...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#206
*********************