team3s
Friday, July 14
2000
Volume 01 : Number
200
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:43:13 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000GT/Stealth instruction videos?
At 10:57 AM 7/13/00 -0700,
you wrote:
>I have a book called "All Wheel Drive High-Performance
Handbook"
>By Jay Lamm
>
Too late. I just ordered the last copy
from Book Link. I saw one available
in the UK, though.
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 12:42:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dangerous Dyno Session !!
FWIW, forged pistons made from
2618-T61 alloy (no silicon) tend to be
"self healing" when stress fractures
(rarely) develop. Forgings with
silicon allow and cast pistons may suffer
catastrophic failure when
cracks form. Some additional details at:
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-venolia.htmJeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified (with 2618 forged
pistons)
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: "Trevor L. James"
<
trevor@kscable.com>; "Roger
Gerl"
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 13, 2000 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dangerous Dyno Session
!!
Seems as though the failure mode is a broken ring land ---- is
the
problem improved with the installation of forged pistons. Can you
buy
pistons with more material between the top of the piston and the
first compression ring without going to a complete custom
setup.
Jim
Berry
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
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Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:35:00
EDT
From:
CUDASEEKER@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Wheels for the VR4
I am currently looking for a set of 4 wheels size
17x7.50 for my 1995 3000gt
VR4.They are close to impossible to find to fit
the VR4. I need them for the
winter months as I do not want to use the
chrome wheels that are on the car
now. Does anyone have or know where I can
pick up a set? New ones that I have
found cost $155.00 each, and I guess
that's what I will have to go with plus
buy some all weather tires size
245/45/17 at $150.00 each. Any help would be
appreciated!
J.
Kittel
Wausau, WI
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:53:21
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dangerous Dyno Session !!
Couple comments:
Roger and
others: Your failure is concerning. As already noted, the middle
cylinders
run hotter than the others for a couple reasons. I was also
told today, by the guy
porting my heads, that the middle combustion chambers
had less volume and he had to
open it up a bit to equalize each
cylinder. This meant I had slightly higher
compression in 3 &
4. Another thought not mentioned yet would be that there was an
air
pocket in the heads near cylinder #4, or more likely, if you lost
coolant
pressurization (failed coolant cap, possibly a blown gasket, etc.)
the boiling point
would drop. Once you start boiling, air pockets would
increase in number and size
resulting in overheating as the heat transfer
lessens.
Personally Roger, I don't think you should be held responsible
for fixing the car
unless something you did is at fault.
And about
piston resistance to failing, yes forged pistons are better than our
cast
pistons and Jeff Lucius had some good points on silicon (or lack of
it). And
increasing the top land will greatly improve durability
against this failure mode.
The Ross pistons GT PRO markets have this feature
and was the reason I decided to
purchase them (even though they are
pricey).
Trevor: When there is debris in the combustion chamber
(top piston land for example)
it is very common for it to bounce around and
enter the intake while the valve is open
(and eventually enter another
cylinder). This could explain why your injectors could
have been
damaged (secondary damage to injectors as opposed to injectors being
primary
failure that then caused piston damage in 4 & 6). Have you
inspected the intake or
injectors for damage from flying debris? I know
many would say no way, but I've seen
pieces of exhaust valve stem from a
failure on one cylinder find themselves into
another cylinder on the other
bank.
Best of Luck to all,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 16:52:44
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject:
Team3S: VR4 project now online.
Here is the link to the beginning of our
site for what weve been doing with our
VR4.
http://www.speedtoys.com/~syzygy/vr4proj/photoalbum.htmlMore
racing photos to be added as we get em online/captured as movies.
Bob
Forrest was at our house today as a witness and helper to weigh in all
of
what weve removed from the interior so FAR.
With 10% of the
interior remaining (relatively heavy things..no more light trim)
we have an
amazing amount of mass removed!
Bob will post details on that
later.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:13:13
-0400
From: Eric J Totten <
spankis@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S:
STEALTH trans question
HI ALL,
i am new to the list and belonged to
the dragnet list a LONG time ago,
and just recently becoame the proud owner
of a 91 Stealth ES DOHC(after
OBSESSING over one for about 2 years hehe). Now
after about a week i
noticed that when im hitting the gas IF i am
accelerating pretty fast and
hold the peddle at a constant level nothing
happens, But when i let off
the gas just a tad (to force it in gear) it will
completely slip out and
go into neutral , the trans is an
AUTOMATIC.
Why could this be happening, everything works fine its just
when i let
off the gas that little bit that this happens. Hopefully its just
an
adjustment and i dont need a trans I HOPE.
Eric Totten
Red '91
Stealth ES DOHC
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:17:45
-0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Brakes
I've can get a great deal on a full set of calipers
front/rear
from a '95 VR4. I have a '95 Base and
am wondering if these calipers
will bolt on to my
car without too much trouble.
I have aftermarket
wheels with a LOT of clearance
at the caliper, BTW...
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:27:49
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Dangerous Dyno Session !!
That's quite likely. It is possible that
heat was both cause and effect,
but in
different..err..sorry...degrees.
The engine relies upon a constant stream
of fresh air moving across various
components (not the least of which would
be the coolant radiator) in order
to maintain a reasonable operating
temperature. If the stationary car on
the dyno is being pushed very
hard without the fresh cool air normally
present on road conditions it is
possible that flash heating occurred here
and there and/or overall cooling
system saturation occurred. This could
cause parts to break which
of course could cause the generation of excess
heat.
I am curious to
know if Roger provides the car with lots of fresh MOVING air
during dyno
sessions. A number of dyno tuners here do this to help
managed
temps.
I'd wager that knock or a lean condition broke the
piston, and the piston
caused the heat.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Roger,
> It
is possible that you may have cause and effect confused.
> Consider
the
> possibility that the overheating was due to the failed piston.
From your
> account of the failure, the shaking occurred before the rise
in
> temperature was
> observed. The piston may have simply
had a defect.
> JAT
>
> Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> >
...
> > But what the heck caused this overheating situation and
what
> > finaly broke that dam piston. There are no melting signs,
just
> the damaged
> > piston and spark plug ! Any ideas
????
> >
> > Roger
> > 93'3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch ... no good start
:-)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:51:14
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Air-conditioner problems
Mark,
It could also be that it is
building too much pressure in the high rpm
band, and the pressure switch is
opening, which shuts down the compressor.
You can check it easily by
jumpering the harness connector with a paper
clip. the connector is right
behind the drivers side headlamp, attached to
the dryer.
If the a/c
still cuts off, then the switch is fine and the problem lies
elsewhere. If
the compressor stays on, you will need to replace the whole
dryer assy, the
switch is not avail separately. Do not run the car with the
switch jumpered,
the pressure will build too much.
Wayne
At 06:16 AM 07/13/2000
, Mark Wendlandt wrote:
>Mark, it maybe as simple as a loose
belt. Mitsu put a little black box
>under the glove box that
compares the speed of the engine to the speed of
>the compressor.
If they don't match, the compressor clutch releases. The
>compressor is harder to spin the faster it goes...so, it would make
sense
>that it is not slipping at idle and it is at
3K+
>
>Check it out and let us
know.
>
>Mark
>'91RT/TT
>
>
>>From: Mark
Creekmore <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
>>
>>Hi
all,
>>
>>I'm having a problem with my air-conditioner. While
the car is at idle, with
>>the clutch pushed in, the air works great.
If I rev the engine over about 3k
>>(clutch in or car moving), the
compressor shuts off. The console display
>>still
>________________________________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>***
Info:
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***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 23:03:41
EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 project now online.
Wow, this will be helpful to know what
the stuff I removed weighed. If I want
more weight out I'll have to dust
hehehehehe
Arty
In a message dated 07/13/2000 7:54:41 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
writes:
<<
Bob Forrest was at our house today as a
witness and helper to weigh in all of
what weve removed from the
interior so FAR.
>>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:05:20
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: VR4 project now online.
*laugh*
Ya..theres probly 10lbs of
real-estate in the car too!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Aso8@aol.com [
mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 13,
2000 8:04 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 project now online.
Wow, this will be helpful to know
what the stuff I removed weighed. If I want
more weight out I'll have to
dust hehehehehe
Arty
In a message dated 07/13/2000 7:54:41 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
writes:
<<
Bob Forrest was at our house today as a
witness and helper to weigh in all of
what weve removed from the
interior so FAR.
>>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 23:32:55
-0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front wheel seems lose
When going over bumps in the road, front
passenger wheel feels like is
loose. All the lugnuts are tight, and
when jacking it off the ground, it
feels solid, not that I can even begin to
duplicate the force of a 2 ton
car. Also, with just the one wheel off
the ground, I can turn it. There is
some resistance, but I can turn it
as much as I want. Is that normal?
Michael
98
VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSent:
Thursday, July 13, 2000 23:05
To:
Aso8@aol.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 project now online.
*laugh*
Ya..theres probly
10lbs of real-estate in the car too!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
Aso8@aol.com [
mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 13,
2000 8:04 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 project now online.
Wow, this will be helpful to know
what the stuff I removed weighed. If I
want
more weight out I'll have to
dust hehehehehe
Arty
In a message dated 07/13/2000 7:54:41 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
writes:
<<
Bob Forrest was at our house today as a witness
and helper to weigh in all
of
what weve removed from the interior so
FAR.
>>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 00:38:13
-0700
From: "aa2345" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Engine problem: Stalling
Hello Team,
Just got my brother's car
back from the Mitsu dealer for its 60K tuneup and
it drove great for the past
100 miles. I did not notice anything real
different, but, the bottom
line is that it drove good.
However, today my brother was driving the car
nicely and while accelerating
(moderately) at approximately 3500 RPM the
engine jerked and it felt like he
lifted his foot off the gas, and engine
braking kicked in. His engine felt
funny for a couple seconds (as if it
wanted to die) until he pulled off on a
side street where his engine
completely stalled. He tried to restart it but
it would die without him
compensating with more gas. Even with
compensation, the engine would
still die within ~10 sec. I have no idea
what this could be, although
things sound similar to the broken piston Roger
Gerl had on his customer's
car. I hope that's not what it is. We towed his
car on a flatbed
back to the Mitsu Dealer, but I wanted to know your guys
expert opinions
before the dealer tells me it was my brother's fault for the
way he drove
it.
Do you guys think it could be something the mechanic did wrong in the
setup
of 60K parts (the timing belt, tensioneer, water pump,
thermostat,
powersteering belt, A/C belt, fuel filter, throttle body gasket,
intake
plenum gasket, spark plug wires and NKG plugs, tensioneer pulley, and
timing
belt iddler pulley)? Or do you guys think it's something else
unrelated.
In the last 100 miles since he got his car back, my brother did
drive the
car once up to 140MPH, and the second time playing around for 10
min with an
1100cc motorcycle at speeds up to 155. Regardless, this is
nothing out of
the ordinary. Nothing bad happened during the high speed
runs, but during
nice easy city driving as he left from a red light.
I
hope it's something easy and the mitsu dealer is going to pick up
the
bill.
Sorry for the long post.
Thanks a
million,
Mike
94 Pearl Yello TT (new 60K service
done)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:28:15
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
VR-4 Race Car Project... Gutting the car...
Hey, Team...
As Jeff
mentioned earlier, he and Nissa have begun work stripping out
every last bit
of extraneous weight from their '95 VR-4. They haven't
begun work on
the engine bay yet, but have done a pretty complete job of
gutting the
interior. I stopped by their place today, to help with the
weigh-in,
and play documentarian. If the scale indicator read more than
1/2 lb,
we rounded up to the nearest pound; for less than 1/2 lb, we
rounded
down. Only the heater and some piping and harnesses remain -
we're
guesstimating maybe another 100 lbs. Here's the tally so
far:
Airbags (2), seat belt trim, dashboard hardware, steering
wheel,
steering column abs sensor, turn signals, wiper controls, lower
lwft
dash, abs computer, accessory switches, driver's side console
panel,
speedo/tach unit. 44 lbs.
Dash pod, visors, center
console trim, passenger mat, passenger
weatherstripping, defroster director
& tubing. 23 lbs.
Door hardware(2), hatch headliner, jack, rear
speaker enclosure, more
seatbelt hardware. 35 lbs.
Center
console (with misc. bolts, nuts, parts. 12 lbs.
Spare tire. 30
lbs.
Passenger door trim panel. 18 lbs.
Dash shell. 24
lbs.
Carpet. 10 lbs.
A-pillar, headliner trim, hatch
struts. 8 lbs.
Hatch trim/wiper/wiper motor washer tank. 12
lbs.
Headliner, misc trim. 11 lbs.
Rear seats, upper.
20 lbs.
Rear seats, lower. 9 lbs.
Door glass (2). 24
lbs.
Misc rear trim, privacy curtain. 12 lbs.
Sunroof
assembly. 27 lbs.
More carpet. 8 lbs.
Passenger
seat. 44 lbs.
Driver seat. 66 lbs.
Trailer hitch. 25
lbs.
I'm sure Jeff and Nissa will be adding to the total and posting it
on
their project site, but, this looks like a damn good start. My
quickie
total of the above comes to 462 lbs! Here's their project
website for
more details and photos:
http://www.speedtoys.com/~syzygy/vr4proj/photoalbum.htmlGood
luck, guys! Glad I could
help...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 01:42:51
EDT
From:
CUDASEEKER@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Air
coditioner problems
I bought my 1995 VR4 2 weeks ago and now the air
conditioner unit keeps
kicking out about 10 seconds after being turned on.
You can hear the engine
change rpm's. This happens while sitting still at an
idle, or while driving.
Then the little red air conditioning warning light
flashes for a few seconds
and then stays lit. I have the paperwork from the
previous owner showing that
the compressor was replaced in November of
1999,at a cost of $800.00 The
only problem is that the dealer that did
the work is in Fargo N. Dakota and
we are 400 miles away from there, so I
can't take it back to them. Does
anyone know what the problem could be since
it is a new compressor? Maybe an
easy fix? Thanks for any help!
J.
Kittel
Wausau, WI
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:44:09
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Air coditioner problems
Do you know if they did a R134
conversion..or made sure the system was purged
and CLEAN.
If not..134
conversions if you dont get all the old oil out..turns to GUM with
the new
oil..fucks everything up.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
CUDASEEKER@aol.com [
mailto:CUDASEEKER@aol.com]
Sent:
Thursday, July 13, 2000 10:43 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Air coditioner problems
I bought my 1995 VR4 2 weeks ago and
now the air conditioner unit keeps
kicking out about 10 seconds after being
turned on. You can hear the engine
change rpm's. This happens while sitting
still at an idle, or while driving.
Then the little red air conditioning
warning light flashes for a few seconds
and then stays lit. I have the
paperwork from the previous owner showing that
the compressor was replaced
in November of 1999,at a cost of $800.00 The
only problem is that the
dealer that did the work is in Fargo N. Dakota and
we are 400 miles away
from there, so I can't take it back to them. Does
anyone know what the
problem could be since it is a new compressor? Maybe an
easy fix?
Thanks for any help!
J. Kittel
Wausau, WI
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 06:20:54
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: STEALTH trans question
Hey, Eric,
Congrats on the car...,
and on joining the Team3S ranks with us other
owners!
I must admit
that I'm not familiar with the 3S automatics, and I hope
I'm not giving you a
false sense of security... But I've had two
experiences like that in
the past (also high-performance cars), and both
were simply adjustment
issues. I'd get to a local dealer (it might be
cheaper at a Mitsu
dealer, and they might be more familiar with the
system), and have them check
it out right away. Good luck!
Best,
Forrest
- -----
Original Message ----- From: "Eric J Totten" <
spankis@juno.com>
> HI ALL,
>
i am new to the list and belonged to the dragnet list a LONG time ago,
>
and just recently becoame the proud owner of a 91 Stealth
ES
DOHC(after
> OBSESSING over one for about 2 years hehe). Now after
about a week i
> noticed that when im hitting the gas IF i am accelerating
pretty fast
and
> hold the peddle at a constant level nothing happens,
But when i let
off
> the gas just a tad (to force it in gear) it will
completely slip out
and
> go into neutral , the trans is an
AUTOMATIC.
>
> Why could this be happening, everything works fine
its just when i let
> off the gas that little bit that this happens.
Hopefully its just an
> adjustment and i dont need a trans I
HOPE.
>
> Eric Totten
> Red '91 Stealth ES
DOHC
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 09:11:02
-0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Air coditioner problems
A 1995 VR-4 should have R-134a installed from the
factory. I believe that was the
case in all models of 3S after 1993 or
1994. So there shouldn't be a problem with
cross
contamination.
I'd guess maybe a fitting or pipe came loose (or wasn't
attached correctly in the
first place since you said they did some work on
the A/C system) and all your
refrigerant leaked out. OR possibly there
is a leak somewhere and rather than
trying to figure out where the leak was
located the shop that did the work just
assumed (and you know what that does)
that it was a bad compressor and replaced
it, recharged the system, and the
system still leaks. A common symptom of low
refrigerant is a compressor
that frequently cycles on and off. Are you getting
any cold air
out?
Good luck.
Greg
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
wrote:
> Do you know if they did a R134 conversion..or made sure the
system was purged
> and CLEAN.
>
> If not..134 conversions if
you dont get all the old oil out..turns to GUM with
> the new oil..fucks
everything up.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
CUDASEEKER@aol.com [
mailto:CUDASEEKER@aol.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, July 13, 2000 10:43 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Air coditioner problems
>
> I bought my 1995 VR4 2
weeks ago and now the air conditioner unit keeps
> kicking out about 10
seconds after being turned on. You can hear the engine
> change rpm's.
This happens while sitting still at an idle, or while driving.
> Then the
little red air conditioning warning light flashes for a few seconds
> and
then stays lit. I have the paperwork from the previous owner showing
that
> the compressor was replaced in November of 1999,at a cost of
$800.00 The
> only problem is that the dealer that did the work is
in Fargo N. Dakota and
> we are 400 miles away from there, so I can't take
it back to them. Does
> anyone know what the problem could be since it is
a new compressor? Maybe an
> easy fix? Thanks for any help!
>
J. Kittel
> Wausau, WI
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 07:33:36
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Seat harness
What do you track racers and autocrossers use for a
harness?
I live near a lot of great mountain roads and may do the
occasional
hillclimb or open track and I'd like to be held in my seat a bit
more
securely. I've got stock seats in a 94 VR-4.
I'd like to keep
the stock belts for daily driving and piggy-back a
competition lap belt on
the same bolts. I don't think I really need a
shoulder harness, although it
looks like I could use a Y harness to
one of the rear seat belt attachments.
I could wear the stock belt
over the comp belt to provide the shoulder strap
to keep me legal.
I'm considering the RCI lap belt. It's cheap--about
$35--and
available in black to match my interior.
Any advice would be
appreciated. Many thanks!
- -Jim
-
-------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink
Macs for the
Masses
Macintosh consulting and repair.
1692 Timothy
Road
McKinleyville, CA 95519
http://www.sunra.com/macCo-author
of
"AppleWorks 6: The Missing Manual"
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/156592858X/macsforthemasses
===========================================
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 14 Jul 00 08:40:04
MDT
From: Mark Creekmore <
mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Air-conditioner problems
Thanks for all of the help.
I
checked out the belt and it seems very tight. According to the service
manual
it should only move .16 - .22 inches.
I'll try jumpering the pressure
switch tonight.
Mark
Wayne wrote:
>
Mark,
> It could also be that it is building too much pressure in
the high rpm
> band, and the pressure switch is opening, which shuts
down the
>compressor.
> You can check it easily by jumpering
the harness connector with a paper
> clip. the connector is right
behind the drivers side headlamp, attached
>to
> the
dryer.
>
> If the a/c still cuts off, then the switch is fine
and the problem lies
> elsewhere. If the compressor stays on, you
will need to replace the >whole
> dryer assy, the switch is not
avail separately. Do not run the car with
>the
> switch
jumpered, the pressure will build too much.
>
>
Wayne
>
> At 06:16 AM 07/13/2000 , Mark Wendlandt
wrote:
>Mark, it maybe as simple as a loose belt. Mitsu
put a little black box
>under the glove box that compares the speed
of the engine to the speed of
>the compressor. If they don't
match, the compressor clutch releases. The
>compressor is
harder to spin the faster it goes...so, it would make sense
>that
it is not slipping at idle and it is at 3K+
>
>Check
it out and let us know.
>
>Mark
>'91RT/TT
>
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 08:46:34
-0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ASC (cruse control)
Hi All,
I am having trouble
with the ASC (curse control) on my '92 VR4. All
of the little
green lights between the speedometer and tach function as
expected, but the
ASC never engages.
I plan to go through the trouble shooting guide in
the service manual,
but I have two questions first.
1) Where is the
vacuum pump assembly mentioned in the service manual?
2) Can anyone point out
from experience the most likely cause of failure
in the
ASC?
Thanks
JAT
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 11:21:24
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Seat harness
Given that the stock seats offer little/no
actual lateral support..theres
not much you can do IMHO.
I use a chest
belt in autox (or used to..stock seats are now out of the
car) but it was
still a wresting match with the steering wheel to stay in
the
seat.
Even a 5pt harness holds you DOWN firmly, but still no lateral
support.
-
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:15:52
-0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
STEALTH trans question
Oh no. Sounds like the front and/or end clutch
packs may be going. You could
try changing the fluid, and when you do, make
absolutely sure it is either
type-7176 or ATF +3!! This stuff has the
necessary friction additive in it,
and without it, the clutch packs will lose
their friction surface and you
will burn up the gearbox. Believe me, I'm on
my 3rd automatic. Also, the end
clutch pack is easily accessed, and it seems
to be a weak link in our
trannies and the DSM FWD turbo trannies. Alto makes
an upgraded end clutch
pack for the DSM trannies, and it may be useable on
the S/3 auto,
considering the only difference between the DSM and the 3/S is
the
differential ratio in the DSM is higher.
If you have more
questions, email me.
Matt
3/Si #311
***
Info:
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***
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End of team3s V1
#200
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