team3s
Saturday, July 8
2000
Volume 01 : Number
191
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 07 Jul 2000 17:48:49 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Size
"Basol, John" wrote:
> So I would like
to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow enough
> air to make
600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or lines.
>
>
Oh, and it should also be the answer to world peace! :-) Seriously,
I know
> I'm looking for a miracle, but if I have any chance of finding
such a turbo,
> someone here will know of it.
In addition to the
other suggestions . . .
You could consider the TEC 17G turbos. They
are
a direct bolt-up (like the 15G), and TEC claims about
a 10% increase
in efficiency over the 15G. Unlike the
15G, they will probably
significantly benefit from a
porting and clipping on the turbine side.
However, TEC
will advise you against buying these ... And be
careful
when clamping down the intake hose! The inlet is
machined so
thin that it can crack.
http://www.turboengineering.com/
Dynamic
Racing has a new 15G setup supposedly with
a true 15G size turbine wheel
(rather than the 13G wheel
commonly found on 15G) which should supposedly
help
on the top end power. Better yet, this would be a good
match
with the 17G, should you go with those. Dynamic
Racing deserves some
attention since I think they recently
ran an 11.2 on a 13G setup.
http://www.dynamicracing1.com/
Turbonetics
could probably put together a T04/T3 setup
which could make big power if the
proper compressor
is chosen, however they have recently been
suggesting
that most customers stick with the 15G because lag and
spoolup
on a twin T04 setup would be excessive.
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/
If
you have big $$$ to spend, you could consider a pair
of HKS ball-bearing
GT-2835s. These turbos are on
the Japanese Bee-Racing GTO (ran low-11's
in the US
and supposedly 10's in Japan with a sketchy female driver
behind
the wheel), and they make big power on Supras.
AFAIK, HKS no longer sells the
entire kit for our cars,
but give them a call and let the money do the
talkin'. :)
http://www.hksusa.com/
Mike at AAM
should be finished with his TD05-16G
setup and have it for sale pretty soon
here. The kit will
include exhaust manifolds and all the other
necessary
modified parts to make these turbos fit in a 3/S, and I
think
he's trying to keep the price in the $3000-4000
range. He already has
these turbos on his car (and on
a customer's car I think), and lag/spoolup is
major issue.
But big HP should theoretically be possible.
http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/
My
personal choice would be the SL Turbo 18T. But
I will not consider
upgrading from the 15Gs that I just
put in until those turbos are readily
available and come
with a complete install kit. I don't mind grinding
down
some metal here and there, but I would prefer not to
custom modify
oil and coolant lines myself. Very happy
with the 15Gs for now.
:)
http://www.slturbo.com/
Hope that
helps,
- --Errin Humphrey
94 VR4 - 15G
Seattle
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:33:51
-0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Team3S:
brakes
I'm just about ready to order a set of Stillen
Sport Rotors and their Metal Matrix pads as
well as their Sport Street
Brake Lines.
Anybody have any experience with
these?
Also... I've got a line on a full set of calipers
from a '91
VR4. Will these fit in my '95 3000GT
Base? I've got aftermarket
wheels with plenty
of clearance.
Thanx for any help, all..
-
-G
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 00:51:07
EDT
From: DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com
Subject: Team3S: 17 G
turbos
I found 17G turbos for my 1992 vr-4. They are 925.00 a piece plus
490.00 for
the install. They are rated for 560 hp. When I called the
manufacture they
said the only upgrade to install these turbos is a 200.00
fuel pump. But to
get the full 560 hp he said you need a front mount
intercooler, fuel
management system and new injectors, exhaust...ect. Is
this a good choice in
turbos or can somebody recommend something
else.
alex
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 23:53:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: $140 for Y Pipe + Rubber gasket assembly?!
(update)
(precurser -- my car blew the Y pipe off <at stock boost>
and ever sinc
ethen the car was idleing like crap.. it seemed like it had
idle flux. I
found out that the rubber gasket from the Y pipe to the throttle
body was
ripped and the dealer said it would be $140 for a new Y pipe and
gasket
and that I cant just order the gasket. Now the car just dies every
time i
stop the car or put the clutch in for long enough for the revs to fall
to
0)
So today I tried the ideas of a few people and nothing seemed to
work.
First try was a vacum cleaner belt. I found only one that fit and
it was
HARD to get onto the throttle body. I then reclamped the Y pipe on
with a
new clamp and it still leaked and the car would not idle (it now just
dies
every time).
I tried to find some rubber hose that was about
2.75" in diameter and
couldnt. I could find 2". and 3" but not 2.75". Where
can I find that?
Ive also noticed that the stock Y pipe seems to have
the end (where the
clamp goes) somewhat crushed or warped...
I am
almost now tempted to buy the new Y pipe. My dealer corrected
themselves and
said it was $99 for the Y Pipe and gasket. Im half tmepted
to order one from
Concinelli (Thats the %20 off place right?).
Id like to make the car at
least driveable tomorrow. Is it possible to use
some sort of radiator hose
and clamp it OUTSIDE of the Y pipe kinda like
at www.alteredatmosphere.com? That
seems like it would be an easier
solution if I cna find the right sized hose.
The car is nearly impossible
to drive..
Or, does anyone in the bay
area have a stock Y pipe I could borrow for a
bit until I get a upgraded
one?
Also, does anyone know of any cheap upgraded Y pipes that I could
buy. I
really want the one from alteredatmosphere but they dont seem
like
they'll have it for a while and I need to get this problem
fixed...
Thanks!
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 02:53:09
EDT
From: TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: 93'
ES Fog Light?
Hey Guys,
Mine just died.. Can I go to autozone and
get a new one or is this a "Dodge
Factory"
part?
Jeff
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 02:26:42
-0500
From: "Trevor L. James" <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 17 G turbos
He forgot to mention race gas to go with that new
fuel management controller.
You'll never see more than 450HP on pump gas
(unless you have water injection).
I hate when these upgrade retailers quote
HP numbers that most people will never
see. You could put 1600cc injectors
and GT-368 turbos on the sucker and you'll
get the same amount of HP on pump
gas as a well tuned 13G/550cc setup...
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.65@107.9
Stock Turbos & Fuel System on
91 Octane
Now with 15G's, 550's, ARC2-GP, and HKS Pump
92 GMC
Typhoon
13.96@96.4
DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com wrote:
> I
found 17G turbos for my 1992 vr-4. They are 925.00 a piece plus 490.00
for
> the install. They are rated for 560 hp. When I called the
manufacture they
> said the only upgrade to install these turbos is a
200.00 fuel pump. But to
> get the full 560 hp he said you need a front
mount intercooler, fuel
> management system and new injectors,
exhaust...ect. Is this a good choice in
> turbos or can somebody recommend
something else.
> alex
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:23:24
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size
Sorry guys, made a typo
!
The brake will only withstand temps of 1000°C (still enough) and has
a
braking power of 2000PS !!!
Cost is around $5000 .... for the fronts
(lill gulp). But I'm sure that as
time goes bye the stuff will becomes
cheaper soon.
You can find a pic I scanned from a newspaper under
http://www.rtec.ch/pictures/ceramic_brakes.jpg
Note
that the stuff uses somewhat thin but 4 pads per caliper and the 8
pistons
have smaller diameters. The advantage is that one can make a thinner
and less
heigh caliper that is simply longer and angeled around the rotor.
The weight
reduction is about 2 kilos per wheel !!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:31:21
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: brakes
> I'm just about ready to
order a set of Stillen
> Sport Rotors and their Metal Matrix pads
as
> well as their Sport Street Brake
Lines.
>
> Anybody have any experience with
these?
No, but leave them where they are. Get cryonic treated
Porterfields with
their R4s pads an any kind of steel braided brake
lines.
> Also... I've got a line on a full set of calipers
>
from a '91 VR4. Will these fit in my '95 3000GT
> Base? I've
got aftermarket wheels with plenty
> of clearance.
Hmm, only the
fronts or also rears. I remember one or two guys already did
this and it
seems not to be a problem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:34:45
+0100
From: "Martin" <martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
Plexiglass windows
Hi all
This has probably already been suggested but
someone on the list pointed me to an aircraft supply site to obtain some
"scratch off" for the side plexiglass windows on my GTO.
When I visited
the site it was obvious to me that the method they were using was very similar
to a product called T-cut here in the UK that we use for taking fine scratches
out of paintwork on cars.
Well it occured to me that I had nothing to lose by
trying this on my windows when I got home as they were already pretty scratched
anyway.
Well after spending a total of 5 minutes with a product I already had
on the shelf I now have side windows that shine like the paintwork and the
reflection is so good that the girlfriend could put her makeup on with
it.
Just thought I would share this with you.
Regards
Martin
Berkley
Technical Support Specialist
Star Internet
support@star.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________
This
message has been checked for all known viruses, by Star Internet,
delivered
through the MessageLabs Virus Control Centre.
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visit:
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***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 06:50:32
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Dynamic Racing's 11.2 run...
I'm not sure everyone
understands (it's kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
was AFTER altitude
correction of the actual run. The actual pass was 11.74 at
120.126
according to 3000gt.com. The disclaimer is not located on the main
page,
it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even post the actual
time.
To each their own, but I don't agree with saying you
did something that you
didn't do. I'd think that such statements could
border on false advertisement
when associated with a business, but at the
very least I'd be hesitant to deal
with a company advertising misleading
information.
Jason
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 06:59:16
-0100
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 17 G turbos
Why would race gas be required if you've got enough
fuel to mix with the oxygen?
Race gas has several advantages, particularly if
you're borderline running out of
fuel, but it's no necessity for making 450+
hp.
Jason
"Trevor L. James" wrote:
> He forgot to
mention race gas to go with that new fuel management controller.
> You'll
never see more than 450HP on pump gas (unless you have water injection).
>
I hate when these upgrade retailers quote HP numbers that most people will
never
> see. You could put 1600cc injectors and GT-368 turbos on the
sucker and you'll
> get the same amount of HP on pump gas as a well tuned
13G/550cc setup...
>
> Trevor
> 96 R/T TT
> 12.65@107.9
> Stock Turbos & Fuel System
on 91 Octane
> Now with 15G's, 550's, ARC2-GP, and HKS Pump
> 92 GMC
Typhoon
> 13.96@96.4
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 07:23:29
-0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Dynamic Racing's 11.2
I would like to assure people that any runs I post
are ACTUAL TIMES my
cars DID, and are not "corrected" to something that never
actually happened.
I will not poison whatever small reputation I may have by
using scientifically
calculated fudge factors that end up making me look
better...but are NOT
WHAT HAPPENED.
Jack Tertadian
10.81 @128.44
with NOS " ~ 85 degree F weather, on stock intercoolers
and IC piping"
tough break on that weather thing etc. eh? Waaaaah.
11.219 @
124.63 no nos
Jason Barnhart
wrote:
> I'm not sure everyone understands
(it's kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
> was AFTER altitude
correction of the actual run. The actual pass was 11.74 at
> 120.126
according to 3000gt.com. The disclaimer is not located on the main
page,
> it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even post the actual
time.
> To each their own, but I don't agree with
saying you did something that you
> didn't do. I'd think that such
statements could border on false advertisement
> when associated with a
business, but at the very least I'd be hesitant to deal
> with a company
advertising misleading information.
> Jason
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:50:19
-0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
brakes
I have this exact setup on my '95 R/T TT. These rotors/pads
work fine for
street driving. I noticed some improvement over stock
rotors/pads.
Do NOT use these rotors OR pads in an open track
event. I cracked one of
these rotors at the hub. Also the Metal
Matrix pad will just let go of the
friction material when stressed
hard. I have experienced this as well, once
up front and once in the
rear.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
>
>
I'm just about ready to order a set of Stillen
> Sport Rotors and their
Metal Matrix pads as
> well as their Sport Street Brake
Lines.
>
> Anybody have any experience with
these?
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 09:48:47
-0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dynamic Racing's 11.2 run...
Thanks for pointing that out,
Jason. I didn't
know about this, and in any case a correction
this
large seems excessive and overly optimistic.
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
Jason Barnhart wrote:
> I'm not sure
everyone understands (it's kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
> was
AFTER altitude correction of the actual run. The actual pass was 11.74
at
> 120.126 according to 3000gt.com. The disclaimer is not located
on the main page,
> it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even post the
actual time.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:41:49
-0500
From: "Trevor L. James" <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 17 G turbos
It's a question of quality, not quantity. No amount
of pump gas is going to allow you
to run 450+HP. Just as no amount of 87
octane is going to get you 320 or so more HP.
Now don't get me wrong,
quantity can help cool the charge and eek out a few more
horsies but it's not
going to completely overcome the inherient limitations of
pump
gas.
Trev
Jason Barnhart wrote:
> Why would race
gas be required if you've got enough fuel to mix with the oxygen?
> Race
gas has several advantages, particularly if you're borderline running out
of
> fuel, but it's no necessity for making 450+ hp.
>
>
Jason
>
> "Trevor L. James" wrote:
>
> > He forgot to
mention race gas to go with that new fuel management controller.
> >
You'll never see more than 450HP on pump gas (unless you have water
injection).
> > I hate when these upgrade retailers quote HP numbers
that most people will never
> > see. You could put 1600cc injectors and
GT-368 turbos on the sucker and you'll
> > get the same amount of HP on
pump gas as a well tuned 13G/550cc setup...
> >
> >
Trevor
> > 96 R/T TT
> > 12.65@107.9
> > Stock Turbos & Fuel
System on 91 Octane
> > Now with 15G's, 550's, ARC2-GP, and HKS
Pump
> > 92 GMC Typhoon
> > 13.96@96.4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:46:53
-0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size
Is it safe to assume that this is
a FULL rotor/caliper replacement, and..will
- -not- crack or fade?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl (RTEC) [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent:
Saturday, July 08, 2000 2:23 AM
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size
Sorry guys, made a typo
!
The brake will only withstand temps of 1000°C (still enough) and has
a
braking power of 2000PS !!!
Cost is around $5000 .... for the fronts
(lill gulp). But I'm sure that as
time goes bye the stuff will becomes
cheaper soon.
You can find a pic I scanned from a newspaper under
http://www.rtec.ch/pictures/ceramic_brakes.jpg
Note
that the stuff uses somewhat thin but 4 pads per caliper and the 8
pistons
have smaller diameters. The advantage is that one can make a thinner
and less
heigh caliper that is simply longer and angeled around the rotor.
The weight
reduction is about 2 kilos per wheel !!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 21:19:13
+0200
From: Matthews <matthews@bnro.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
alignment suggestions?
Based on the input I received (Ken's & Rich's
combined below), I plan to request
the following alignment settings for
Tuesday's appointment (erring on the
conservative side this round; will try
more aggressive settings next time):
Front (Vorne)
-
-------------
Current Range (Fahrzeugdaten)
Desired
(Vorher)
Min
Max (Nach.)
caster
(nachlauf)
left (links)
4º10' 3º26'
4º26' 4º26'
right
(rechts) 3º35'
3º26'
4º26' 4º26'
camber
(sturz)
left (links)
-0º08' -0º30'
0º30' -0º30'
right
(rechts) -0º05'
-0º30' 0º30'
-0º30'
toe (spur)
left (links)
-0º01' -0º07'
0º08' 0º00'
right
(rechts) -0º00'
-0º07'
0º08' 0º00'
Rear (Hinten)
-
-------------
Current Range (Fahrzeugdaten)
Desired
(Vorher)
Min
Max (Nach.)
camber
(sturz)
left (links)
-0º09' -0º40'
0º20' -0º40'
right
(rechts) -0º11'
-0º40' 0º20'
-0º40'
toe (spur)
left (links)
-0º03' -0º05'
0º07' -0º02'
right
(rechts) -0º06'
-0º05' 0º07'
-0º02'
Does this look good to you? Did I misunderstand any of
your suggestions? My
current understanding of alignment settings is as
follows (please let me know if
I'm off here):
CASTER - I have no clue
what this is. I thought I remember reading that this
isn't adjustable
on our cars?
CAMBER - the amount the top of the tire tips away from
(positive) or in towards
(negative) the wheel well. The more negative,
the better the car will handle in
corners, since the contact patch will
flatten out under load. Not sure why one
would ever want too much
camber?
TOE - the amount the front of the tire tips away from (positive)
or in towards
(negative) the wheel well. The more negative, the more
the tires will try to
aim together, which is particularly beneficial in the
rear to prevent excessive
oversteer. Would some negative toe in the
front may help minimize unwanted rut
tracking? Before my last alignment
(when it didn't track the ruts as severly as
it does now), my front toe
settings were L=0º05 R= -0º02 (compared with the
current settings above, L=
0º01 R= 0º00). It doesn't make sense to me that rut
tracking would be
worse now. Also, before my last alignment, the car wanted to
swap ends
under braking (particularly in right handers), and the right rear tow
was
really out of whack (L= 0º01 R= -0º24). This does make sense!
I
really appreciate your help, and I look forward to a big improvement
over
handling!
- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(USA)
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> Usually, they try to
get camber on all wheels close to zero for maximum tire
> wear. To
increase cornering, you want to increase negative camber. If your
>
tire wear is really good now, just have them increase negative camber
>
(watch out for all my double negartives!) by .5 to 1.0 over the current
>
settings on all 4 corners. i.e. if you are currently at -0.5, try going
to
> -1.25 or so. You will probably currently have more negative
camber in the
> back, you should preserve the difference.
>
>
Also, I usually have them decrease the front toe. Factory spec has sooo
much
> toe since it is more stable for the average driver. Getting
closer to zero
> provides better handling as well as better tire
wear.
>
> I think my current settings are -0.5 front, and -1.25
rear. I've got about 30K
> on my Firestone SZ50, but I could use
more negative camber on the front since
> the front outside edges wore the
quickest.
Merritt wrote:
>
> I run 1.25 deg negative
camber, maximum castor, and 0.15 deg positive toe
> in the front, and 1.5
deg negative camber in the rear. Corners like a
> go-kart. It will wear
the tires a little on the inner tread, but you can
> fix that by
remounting the tires and rotating them at half-life.
>
> > Also,
since I'm
> >running at high speed on the Autobahn, I don't want it to
be squirrely! :-)
>
> In that case, you may want to dial in a
teeny bit of negative toe in the
> rear. In any case, be certain it has no
positive toe back there, because it
> will get squirrely under heavy
braking and want to swap ends.
>
> My settings work pretty well
with race tires, but we don't run flat out
> autobahn speeds. We hit maybe
130-140 before heavy braking, and our maximum
> track cornering speeds are
in the 90-120 mph range. I'm sure there are
> faster corners, but I
haven't encountered any yet. I'm not sure what these
> settings will do on
a straight run on the Autobahn.
>
> Rich
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 16:02:56
-0400
From: "mark1mtg" <mark1mtg@netzero.net>
Subject:
RE:Team3S:Low Boost
Hi
all,
I have a 92 VR4 with
following mods:
all cats gutted
K&N
Alamo y pipe
Water
injection
Apexi AVC-R (new model)
plugs @
.034
I have [A] setting @1.05 on
Boost and [B] @1.25 After I installed
the WI, I was able to hit
1.25 boost with no problem but lately I can't hit
more than 1.16.
Setting [A] works fine 1.05 rock solid. I checked and
rechecked
all vacum lines and verified that waste gates are working
properly. (.55
boost with Apexi off). Any ideas? Also am still running stock
BOV. Could this
be the problem?
Secondly, can crossdrilled rotors be turned? If so
how?
Thanks in
advance.
Mark
_______________________________________________
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Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 15:10:11
-0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?
At 09:19 PM 7/8/00 +0200, Matthews
wrote:
>Based on the input I received (Ken's & Rich's combined below),
I plan to
request
>the following alignment settings for Tuesday's
appointment (erring on the
>conservative side this round; will try more
aggressive settings next time):
>
>Front
(Vorne)
>-------------
>
Current Range (Fahrzeugdaten)
Desired
>
(Vorher)
Min
Max (Nach.)
>caster
(nachlauf)
> left (links)
4º10' 3º26'
4º26' 4º26'
> right
(rechts) 3º35'
3º26'
4º26' 4º26'
I don't think you can
adjust castor on a stock suspension. You need a set
of camber
plates.
>
>camber (sturz)
>
left (links) -0º08'
-0º30' 0º30'
-0º30'
> right (rechts)
-0º05' -0º30'
0º30' -0º30'
This is conservative, but it
looks like you are going the maximum negative
camber setting. You'll need
camber plates to go any more negative..
>
>toe
(spur)
> left (links)
-0º01' -0º07'
0º08' 0º00'
> right
(rechts) -0º00'
-0º07'
0º08' 0º00'
I'd go with a skosh more
positive toe -- maybe to 0.08 deg. Why is 0.08 the
maximum toe
available?
>
>
>Rear
(Hinten)
>-------------
>
Current Range (Fahrzeugdaten)
Desired
>
(Vorher)
Min
Max (Nach.)
>camber
(sturz)
> left (links)
-0º09' -0º40'
0º20' -0º40'
> right
(rechts) -0º11'
-0º40' 0º20'
-0º40'
>
>toe (spur)
> left
(links) -0º03'
-0º05' 0º07'
-0º02'
> right (rechts)
-0º06' -0º05'
0º07' -0º02'
I'd stick with 0 deg toe in
the rear.
>
>
>
>
>CASTER - I have no clue what
this is. I thought I remember reading that this
>isn't adjustable on
our cars?
Consider it to be like the rake on a motorcycle front end.
Except it's our
strut, and how far it leans forward or aft from the vertical.
Positive
castor means it leans back.
>
>CAMBER - the amount the
top of the tire tips away from (positive) or in
towards
>(negative) the
wheel well. The more negative, the better the car will
handle
in
>corners, since the contact patch will flatten out under load.
Not sure
why one
>would ever want too much camber?
Too much, and
you'll wear out the inside of your tires.
>
Rich/old
poop
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 16:24:00
-0400
From: Brian Geisel <brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dynamic Racing's 11.2 run...
That's not entirely true.
Jason, you have made the assumption that it [his
11.2 ET / 1.62 60' time] was
actually 11.74 @ 120.126, yes? We all know
what happens when we
ass-u-me, right ;)
Seriously though, that number has been on 3000gt long
before matt ran the 11.2
we're all talking about. 11.74 might be the
non-adjusted time, but It wasn't the
non-adjusted time of the 11.2 time he
ran. It was one of his best runs before
his current setup.
So
no, the track isn't making a .54 second adjustment due to altitude. As for
the
adjustment, there's something to be said for that. I'm sure the
NDRA (sp?)
tries to keep consistent numbers across the US, and that may be
the only way to
get the track in Denver to post similar number to the track
near death valley. I
don't know for sure, but I would imagine they're
doing it w/i the national
association's specifications. I do not,
however, know what they are... Anyone?
geis
Errin Humphrey
wrote:
> Thanks for pointing that out, Jason. I didn't
>
know about this, and in any case a correction
> this large seems excessive
and overly optimistic.
>
> --Errin Humphrey
>
Seattle
>
> Jason Barnhart wrote:
>
> > I'm not sure
everyone understands (it's kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
> >
was AFTER altitude correction of the actual run. The actual pass was 11.74
at
> > 120.126 according to 3000gt.com. The disclaimer is not
located on the main page,
> > it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even
post the actual time.
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 22:44:15
+0200
From: Matthews <matthews@bnro.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
alignment suggestions?
Just found a few good pages describing caster,
camber and toe, and the effects
of each. The second one has
diagrams.
http://www.ground-control.com/gctalk5.htm
http://www.advancedracing.com/grmart1.html
Enjoy.
-
--
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(USA)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:52:06
-0700
From: "Steve Gula" <mrelloco@eudoramail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dynamic Racing's 11.2 run...
I think advertising an adjusted
for altitude time is misleading.. but just out of curiosity... what kind of
altitude is there in Roswell, NM? Last time I was out in that area was
about 6 years ago to shoot at the NRA range somewhere in NM or AZ.. we
drove from colorado and it was a downhill drive to get there...
-
---
- ------------------------------------------------
- --Steve
"Loco3KGT" Gula (loco3kgt@ec3s.org)
-
--1995 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT
- ------------------
- --East Coast
3000GT/Stealth
- --http://www.ec3s.org/
-
------------------------------------------------
On Sat, 08 Jul 2000
09:48:47 Errin Humphrey wrote:
>Thanks for pointing that out,
Jason. I didn't
>know about this, and in any case a
correction
>this large seems excessive and overly
optimistic.
>
>--Errin Humphrey
>Seattle
>
>Jason
Barnhart wrote:
>
>> I'm not sure everyone understands (it's
kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
>> was AFTER altitude correction
of the actual run. The actual pass was 11.74 at
>> 120.126
according to 3000gt.com. The disclaimer is not located on the main
page,
>> it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even post the actual
time.
>
>
>*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 22:52:52
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: RE:Team3S:Low Boost
> I
have [A] setting @1.05 on Boost and [B] @1.25 After I
installed
> the WI, I was able to hit 1.25 boost with no problem but
lately I can't
hit
> more than 1.16.
How much knock do you have
at 1.2 bars ?
How much water are you spraying ?
What has been done to
fullfill the fuel needs ?
How are the O2 sensor readings at WOT around 5000
?
> Any ideas? Also am still running stock
> BOV. Could this be
the problem?
Possible, but I doubt this because then you'd have the
problem also at 1
bar.
Idea, well your compression is going lower and
lower :( Hope not, but ....
> Secondly, can crossdrilled rotors be
turned? If so how?
No, they have to be machined from the
top.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 22:55:47
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size
> Is it safe to assume that
this is a FULL rotor/caliper replacement,
and..will
- -not- crack or
fade?
No fade but crack .. well it's ceramic and IMHO somewhat more prone
to
crack. But this is probably the cause that they put in the 4 pads and
the
angled caliper so there is probably much less cracking
danger.
BTW, I just heard that these brakes are also available for the
racing
version of the Ferrari 360 Modena !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 23:28:48
+0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: ABS, stealths and
Hummers
<Big snippo of -- Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany condescending
quotes of MY
mail....>
>>I think we've covered this
before...
Don't think so.
>> the ABS implementation in the
S3 is a TWO-PHASE SYSTEM, where diagonal
corners are linked.
Yadda
yadda yadda....then explain me WHY if I put ONE summer/3 winter tires
on
snow, I then have the same
INSANELY BAD result as if I had 4 summer
tires.
The diagonal corners alre linked via the HYDRAULIC PRESSURE of the
brake
system, but there's NOTHING about how
the ABS ECU is analysing the
data collected from the sensors.
And, why, when some brake rotors
snapped, the 3S lost ALL of the
brakes....not 50% of it, but ALL
!!!!
BTW Mr Mattews, We're just posting there our EXPERIENCES, and we're
just
trying to understand WHY we had them.
>> A
higher-phase system can not be used due to the all wheel drive.
Please
elaborate, I KNOW that it's NOT true in a BMW iX design, in a Subaru,
in a
Nissan Skyline, a Lancia Delta....
so why would it be impossible in a
Mitsu/Dodge ???
>>This is explained in detail in the S3
instructional videos (speaking of
which: Mike, I still have yours and need
to
>>return them to you!).
Send it to ME instead, I'll watch it,
(probably make a copy....) and then
send it to "Mike"
Zee
you
Henri
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#191
*********************