team3s             Saturday, July 8 2000             Volume 01 : Number 191




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Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 17:48:49 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

"Basol, John" wrote:

> So I would like to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow enough
> air to make 600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or lines.
>
> Oh, and it should also be the answer to world peace!  :-)  Seriously, I know
> I'm looking for a miracle, but if I have any chance of finding such a turbo,
> someone here will know of it.

In addition to the other suggestions . . .

You could consider the TEC 17G turbos.  They are
a direct bolt-up (like the 15G), and TEC claims about
a 10% increase in efficiency over the 15G.  Unlike the
15G, they will probably significantly benefit from a
porting and clipping on the turbine side.  However, TEC
will advise you against buying these ...  And be careful
when clamping down the intake hose!  The inlet is
machined so thin that it can crack.

http://www.turboengineering.com/

Dynamic Racing has a new 15G setup supposedly with
a true 15G size turbine wheel (rather than the 13G wheel
commonly found on 15G) which should supposedly help
on the top end power.  Better yet, this would be a good
match with the 17G, should you go with those.  Dynamic
Racing deserves some attention since I think they recently
ran an 11.2 on a 13G setup.

http://www.dynamicracing1.com/

Turbonetics could probably put together a T04/T3 setup
which could make big power if the proper compressor
is chosen, however they have recently been suggesting
that most customers stick with the 15G because lag and
spoolup on a twin T04 setup would be excessive.

http://www.turboneticsinc.com/

If you have big $$$ to spend, you could consider a pair
of HKS ball-bearing GT-2835s.  These turbos are on
the Japanese Bee-Racing GTO (ran low-11's in the US
and supposedly 10's in Japan with a sketchy female driver
behind the wheel), and they make big power on Supras.
AFAIK, HKS no longer sells the entire kit for our cars,
but give them a call and let the money do the talkin'.  :)

http://www.hksusa.com/

Mike at AAM should be finished with his TD05-16G
setup and have it for sale pretty soon here.  The kit will
include exhaust manifolds and all the other necessary
modified parts to make these turbos fit in a 3/S, and I
think he's trying to keep the price in the $3000-4000
range.  He already has these turbos on his car (and on
a customer's car I think), and lag/spoolup is major issue.
But big HP should theoretically be possible.

http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/

My personal choice would be the SL Turbo 18T.  But
I will not consider upgrading from the 15Gs that I just
put in until those turbos are readily available and come
with a complete install kit.  I don't mind grinding down
some metal here and there, but I would prefer not to
custom modify oil and coolant lines myself.  Very happy
with the 15Gs for now.  :)

http://www.slturbo.com/

Hope that helps,

- --Errin Humphrey
94 VR4 - 15G
Seattle


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:33:51 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
Subject: Team3S: brakes

    I'm just about ready to order a set of Stillen
Sport Rotors and their Metal Matrix pads as
well as their Sport Street Brake Lines. 

    Anybody have any experience with these?
Also... I've got a line on a full set of calipers
from a '91 VR4.  Will these fit in my '95 3000GT
Base?  I've got aftermarket wheels with plenty
of clearance.
Thanx for any help, all..
- -G



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 00:51:07 EDT
From: DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com
Subject: Team3S: 17 G turbos

I found 17G turbos for my 1992 vr-4. They are 925.00 a piece plus 490.00 for
the install. They are rated for 560 hp. When I called the manufacture they
said the only upgrade to install these turbos is a 200.00 fuel pump. But to
get the full 560 hp he said you need a front mount intercooler, fuel
management system and new injectors, exhaust...ect. Is this a good choice in
turbos or can somebody recommend something else.                               
alex

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 23:53:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject: Team3S: Re: $140 for Y Pipe + Rubber gasket assembly?! (update)

(precurser -- my car blew the Y pipe off <at stock boost> and ever sinc
ethen the car was idleing like crap.. it seemed like it had idle flux. I
found out that the rubber gasket from the Y pipe to the throttle body was
ripped and the dealer said it would be $140 for a new Y pipe and gasket
and that I cant just order the gasket. Now the car just dies every time i
stop the car or put the clutch in for long enough for the revs to fall to
0)

So today I tried the ideas of a few people and nothing seemed to work.

First try was a vacum cleaner belt. I found only one that fit and it was
HARD to get onto the throttle body. I then reclamped the Y pipe on with a
new clamp and it still leaked and the car would not idle (it now just dies
every time).

I tried to find some rubber hose that was about 2.75" in diameter and
couldnt. I could find 2". and 3" but not 2.75". Where can I find that?

Ive also noticed that the stock Y pipe seems to have the end (where the
clamp goes) somewhat crushed or warped...

I am almost now tempted to buy the new Y pipe. My dealer corrected
themselves and said it was $99 for the Y Pipe and gasket. Im half tmepted
to order one from Concinelli (Thats the %20 off place right?).

Id like to make the car at least driveable tomorrow. Is it possible to use
some sort of radiator hose and clamp it OUTSIDE of the Y pipe kinda like
at www.alteredatmosphere.com? That seems like it would be an easier
solution if I cna find the right sized hose. The car is nearly impossible
to drive..

Or, does anyone in the bay area have a stock Y pipe I could borrow for a
bit until I get a upgraded one?

Also, does anyone know of any cheap upgraded Y pipes that I could buy. I
really want the one from alteredatmosphere but they dont seem like
they'll have it for a while and I need to get this problem
fixed... Thanks!




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 02:53:09 EDT
From: TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: 93' ES Fog Light?

Hey Guys,

Mine just died.. Can I go to autozone and get a new one or is this a "Dodge
Factory" part?

Jeff

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 02:26:42 -0500
From: "Trevor L. James" <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 17 G turbos

He forgot to mention race gas to go with that new fuel management controller.
You'll never see more than 450HP on pump gas (unless you have water injection).
I hate when these upgrade retailers quote HP numbers that most people will never
see. You could put 1600cc injectors and GT-368 turbos on the sucker and you'll
get the same amount of HP on pump gas as a well tuned 13G/550cc setup...

Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.65@107.9
Stock Turbos & Fuel System on 91 Octane
Now with 15G's, 550's, ARC2-GP, and HKS Pump
92 GMC Typhoon
13.96@96.4

DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com wrote:

> I found 17G turbos for my 1992 vr-4. They are 925.00 a piece plus 490.00 for
> the install. They are rated for 560 hp. When I called the manufacture they
> said the only upgrade to install these turbos is a 200.00 fuel pump. But to
> get the full 560 hp he said you need a front mount intercooler, fuel
> management system and new injectors, exhaust...ect. Is this a good choice in
> turbos or can somebody recommend something else.
> alex
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:23:24 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size

Sorry guys, made a typo !

The brake will only withstand temps of 1000°C (still enough) and has a
braking power of 2000PS !!!

Cost is around $5000 .... for the fronts (lill gulp). But I'm sure that as
time goes bye the stuff will becomes cheaper soon.
You can find a pic I scanned from a newspaper under
http://www.rtec.ch/pictures/ceramic_brakes.jpg

Note that the stuff uses somewhat thin but 4 pads per caliper and the 8
pistons have smaller diameters. The advantage is that one can make a thinner
and less heigh caliper that is simply longer and angeled around the rotor.
The weight reduction is about 2 kilos per wheel !!

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:31:21 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: brakes

>     I'm just about ready to order a set of Stillen
> Sport Rotors and their Metal Matrix pads as
> well as their Sport Street Brake Lines.
>
>     Anybody have any experience with these?

No, but leave them where they are. Get cryonic treated Porterfields with
their R4s pads an any kind of steel braided brake lines.

> Also... I've got a line on a full set of calipers
> from a '91 VR4.  Will these fit in my '95 3000GT
> Base?  I've got aftermarket wheels with plenty
> of clearance.

Hmm, only the fronts or also rears. I remember one or two guys already did
this and it seems not to be a problem.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:34:45 +0100
From: "Martin" <martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S: Plexiglass windows

Hi all
This has probably already been suggested but someone on the list pointed me to an aircraft supply site to obtain some
"scratch off" for the side plexiglass windows on my GTO.
When I visited the site it was obvious to me that the method they were using was very similar to a product called T-cut here in the UK that we use for taking fine scratches out of paintwork on cars.
Well it occured to me that I had nothing to lose by trying this on my windows when I got home as they were already pretty scratched anyway.
Well after spending a total of 5 minutes with a product I already had on the shelf I now have side windows that shine like the paintwork and the reflection is so good that the girlfriend could put her makeup on with it.
Just thought I would share this with you.
 
Regards
Martin Berkley
Technical Support Specialist
Star Internet
support@star.co.uk


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Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 06:50:32 -0100
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Dynamic Racing's 11.2 run...

    I'm not sure everyone understands (it's kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
was AFTER altitude correction of the actual run.  The actual pass was 11.74 at
120.126 according to 3000gt.com.  The disclaimer is not located on the main page,
it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even post the actual time.
    To each their own, but I don't agree with saying you did something that you
didn't do.  I'd think that such statements could border on false advertisement
when associated with a business, but at the very least I'd be hesitant to deal
with a company advertising misleading information.

Jason


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 06:59:16 -0100
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 17 G turbos

Why would race gas be required if you've got enough fuel to mix with the oxygen?
Race gas has several advantages, particularly if you're borderline running out of
fuel, but it's no necessity for making 450+ hp.

Jason

"Trevor L. James" wrote:

> He forgot to mention race gas to go with that new fuel management controller.
> You'll never see more than 450HP on pump gas (unless you have water injection).
> I hate when these upgrade retailers quote HP numbers that most people will never
> see. You could put 1600cc injectors and GT-368 turbos on the sucker and you'll
> get the same amount of HP on pump gas as a well tuned 13G/550cc setup...
>
> Trevor
> 96 R/T TT
> 12.65@107.9
> Stock Turbos & Fuel System on 91 Octane
> Now with 15G's, 550's, ARC2-GP, and HKS Pump
> 92 GMC Typhoon
> 13.96@96.4


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 07:23:29 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Dynamic Racing's 11.2

I would like to assure people that any runs I post are ACTUAL TIMES my
cars DID, and are not "corrected" to something that never actually happened.
I will not poison whatever small reputation I may have by using scientifically
calculated fudge factors that end up making me look better...but are NOT
WHAT HAPPENED.

Jack Tertadian
10.81 @128.44 with NOS  " ~ 85 degree F weather, on stock intercoolers
and IC piping" tough break on that weather thing etc.  eh?  Waaaaah.
11.219 @ 124.63 no nos


Jason Barnhart wrote:

>     I'm not sure everyone understands (it's kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
> was AFTER altitude correction of the actual run.  The actual pass was 11.74 at
> 120.126 according to 3000gt.com.  The disclaimer is not located on the main page,
> it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even post the actual time.
>     To each their own, but I don't agree with saying you did something that you
> didn't do.  I'd think that such statements could border on false advertisement
> when associated with a business, but at the very least I'd be hesitant to deal
> with a company advertising misleading information.
> Jason


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:50:19 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: brakes

I have this exact setup on my '95 R/T TT.  These rotors/pads work fine for
street driving.  I noticed some improvement over stock rotors/pads.

Do NOT use these rotors OR pads in an open track event.  I cracked one of
these rotors at the hub.  Also the Metal Matrix pad will just let go of the
friction material when stressed hard.  I have experienced this as well, once
up front and once in the rear.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>

>
>     I'm just about ready to order a set of Stillen
> Sport Rotors and their Metal Matrix pads as
> well as their Sport Street Brake Lines.
>
>     Anybody have any experience with these?



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 09:48:47 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dynamic Racing's 11.2 run...

Thanks for pointing that out, Jason.  I didn't
know about this, and in any case a correction
this large seems excessive and overly optimistic.

- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle

Jason Barnhart wrote:

> I'm not sure everyone understands (it's kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
> was AFTER altitude correction of the actual run.  The actual pass was 11.74 at
> 120.126 according to 3000gt.com.  The disclaimer is not located on the main page,
> it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even post the actual time.


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:41:49 -0500
From: "Trevor L. James" <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 17 G turbos

It's a question of quality, not quantity. No amount of pump gas is going to allow you
to run 450+HP. Just as no amount of 87 octane is going to get you 320 or so more HP.
Now don't get me wrong, quantity can help cool the charge and eek out a few more
horsies but it's not going to completely overcome the inherient limitations of pump
gas.

Trev

Jason Barnhart wrote:

> Why would race gas be required if you've got enough fuel to mix with the oxygen?
> Race gas has several advantages, particularly if you're borderline running out of
> fuel, but it's no necessity for making 450+ hp.
>
> Jason
>
> "Trevor L. James" wrote:
>
> > He forgot to mention race gas to go with that new fuel management controller.
> > You'll never see more than 450HP on pump gas (unless you have water injection).
> > I hate when these upgrade retailers quote HP numbers that most people will never
> > see. You could put 1600cc injectors and GT-368 turbos on the sucker and you'll
> > get the same amount of HP on pump gas as a well tuned 13G/550cc setup...
> >
> > Trevor
> > 96 R/T TT
> > 12.65@107.9
> > Stock Turbos & Fuel System on 91 Octane
> > Now with 15G's, 550's, ARC2-GP, and HKS Pump
> > 92 GMC Typhoon
> > 13.96@96.4


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 11:46:53 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size

Is it safe to assume that this is a FULL rotor/caliper replacement, and..will
- -not- crack or fade?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl (RTEC) [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 2:23 AM
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size


Sorry guys, made a typo !

The brake will only withstand temps of 1000°C (still enough) and has a
braking power of 2000PS !!!

Cost is around $5000 .... for the fronts (lill gulp). But I'm sure that as
time goes bye the stuff will becomes cheaper soon.
You can find a pic I scanned from a newspaper under
http://www.rtec.ch/pictures/ceramic_brakes.jpg

Note that the stuff uses somewhat thin but 4 pads per caliper and the 8
pistons have smaller diameters. The advantage is that one can make a thinner
and less heigh caliper that is simply longer and angeled around the rotor.
The weight reduction is about 2 kilos per wheel !!

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 21:19:13 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@bnro.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?

Based on the input I received (Ken's & Rich's combined below), I plan to request
the following alignment settings for Tuesday's appointment (erring on the
conservative side this round; will try more aggressive settings next time):

Front (Vorne)
- -------------
                    Current    Range (Fahrzeugdaten)   Desired
                    (Vorher)     Min         Max       (Nach.)
caster (nachlauf)
    left  (links)    4º10'      3º26'       4º26'       4º26'
    right (rechts)   3º35'      3º26'       4º26'       4º26'

camber (sturz)
    left  (links)   -0º08'     -0º30'       0º30'      -0º30'
    right (rechts)  -0º05'     -0º30'       0º30'      -0º30'

toe (spur)
    left  (links)   -0º01'     -0º07'       0º08'       0º00'
    right (rechts)  -0º00'     -0º07'       0º08'       0º00'


Rear (Hinten)
- -------------
                    Current    Range (Fahrzeugdaten)   Desired
                    (Vorher)     Min         Max       (Nach.)
camber (sturz)
    left  (links)   -0º09'     -0º40'       0º20'      -0º40'
    right (rechts)  -0º11'     -0º40'       0º20'      -0º40'

toe (spur)
    left  (links)   -0º03'     -0º05'       0º07'      -0º02'
    right (rechts)  -0º06'     -0º05'       0º07'      -0º02'


Does this look good to you?  Did I misunderstand any of your suggestions?  My
current understanding of alignment settings is as follows (please let me know if
I'm off here):

CASTER - I have no clue what this is.  I thought I remember reading that this
isn't adjustable on our cars?

CAMBER - the amount the top of the tire tips away from (positive) or in towards
(negative) the wheel well.  The more negative, the better the car will handle in
corners, since the contact patch will flatten out under load.  Not sure why one
would ever want too much camber?

TOE - the amount the front of the tire tips away from (positive) or in towards
(negative) the wheel well.  The more negative, the more the tires will try to
aim together, which is particularly beneficial in the rear to prevent excessive
oversteer.  Would some negative toe in the front may help minimize unwanted rut
tracking?  Before my last alignment (when it didn't track the ruts as severly as
it does now), my front toe settings were L=0º05 R= -0º02 (compared with the
current settings above, L= 0º01 R= 0º00).  It doesn't make sense to me that rut
tracking would be worse now.  Also, before my last alignment, the car wanted to
swap ends under braking (particularly in right handers), and the right rear tow
was really out of whack (L= 0º01 R= -0º24).  This does make sense!

I really appreciate your help, and I look forward to a big improvement over
handling!

- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html (Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html  (USA)



Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> Usually, they try to get camber on all wheels close to zero for maximum tire
> wear.  To increase cornering, you want to increase negative camber.  If your
> tire wear is really good now, just have them increase negative camber
> (watch out for all my double negartives!) by .5 to 1.0 over the current
> settings on all 4 corners.  i.e. if you are currently at -0.5, try going to
> -1.25 or so.  You will probably currently have more negative camber in the
> back, you should preserve the difference.
>
> Also, I usually have them decrease the front toe.  Factory spec has sooo much
> toe since it is more stable for the average driver.  Getting closer to zero
> provides better handling as well as better tire wear.
>
> I think my current settings are -0.5 front, and -1.25 rear.  I've got about 30K
> on my Firestone SZ50, but I could use more negative camber on the front since
> the front outside edges wore the quickest.


Merritt wrote:
>
> I run 1.25 deg negative camber, maximum castor, and 0.15 deg positive toe
> in the front, and 1.5 deg negative camber in the rear. Corners like a
> go-kart. It will wear the tires a little on the inner tread, but you can
> fix that by remounting the tires and rotating them at half-life.
>
> > Also, since I'm
> >running at high speed on the Autobahn, I don't want it to be squirrely!  :-)
>
> In that case, you may want to dial in a teeny bit of negative toe in the
> rear. In any case, be certain it has no positive toe back there, because it
> will get squirrely under heavy braking and want to swap ends.
>
> My settings work pretty well with race tires, but we don't run flat out
> autobahn speeds. We hit maybe 130-140 before heavy braking, and our maximum
> track cornering speeds are in the 90-120 mph range. I'm sure there are
> faster corners, but I haven't encountered any yet. I'm not sure what these
> settings will do on a straight run on the Autobahn.
>
> Rich


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Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 16:02:56 -0400
From: "mark1mtg" <mark1mtg@netzero.net>
Subject: RE:Team3S:Low Boost

Hi all,
         I have a 92 VR4 with following mods:
all cats gutted
K&N
Alamo y pipe
Water injection
Apexi AVC-R (new model)
plugs @ .034

       I have [A] setting @1.05 on Boost  and [B] @1.25  After I installed
the WI, I was able to hit 1.25 boost with no problem but lately I can't hit
more than 1.16. Setting  [A] works fine 1.05 rock solid. I checked  and
rechecked all vacum lines and verified that waste gates are working
properly. (.55 boost with Apexi off). Any ideas? Also am still running stock
BOV. Could this be the problem?
Secondly, can crossdrilled rotors be turned? If so how?
Thanks in advance.
Mark



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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 15:10:11 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?

At 09:19 PM 7/8/00 +0200, Matthews wrote:
>Based on the input I received (Ken's & Rich's combined below), I plan to
request
>the following alignment settings for Tuesday's appointment (erring on the
>conservative side this round; will try more aggressive settings next time):
>
>Front (Vorne)
>-------------
>                    Current    Range (Fahrzeugdaten)   Desired
>                    (Vorher)     Min         Max       (Nach.)
>caster (nachlauf)
>    left  (links)    4º10'      3º26'       4º26'       4º26'
>    right (rechts)   3º35'      3º26'       4º26'       4º26'

I don't think you can adjust castor on a stock suspension. You need a set
of camber plates.


>
>camber (sturz)
>    left  (links)   -0º08'     -0º30'       0º30'      -0º30'
>    right (rechts)  -0º05'     -0º30'       0º30'      -0º30'

This is conservative, but it looks like you are going the maximum negative
camber setting. You'll need camber plates to go any more negative..
>
>toe (spur)
>    left  (links)   -0º01'     -0º07'       0º08'       0º00'
>    right (rechts)  -0º00'     -0º07'       0º08'       0º00'

I'd go with a skosh more positive toe -- maybe to 0.08 deg. Why is 0.08 the
maximum toe available?
>
>
>Rear (Hinten)
>-------------
>                    Current    Range (Fahrzeugdaten)   Desired
>                    (Vorher)     Min         Max       (Nach.)
>camber (sturz)
>    left  (links)   -0º09'     -0º40'       0º20'      -0º40'
>    right (rechts)  -0º11'     -0º40'       0º20'      -0º40'
>
>toe (spur)
>    left  (links)   -0º03'     -0º05'       0º07'      -0º02'
>    right (rechts)  -0º06'     -0º05'       0º07'      -0º02'

I'd stick with 0 deg toe in the rear.
>
>
>
>
>CASTER - I have no clue what this is.  I thought I remember reading that this
>isn't adjustable on our cars?

Consider it to be like the rake on a motorcycle front end. Except it's our
strut, and how far it leans forward or aft from the vertical. Positive
castor means it leans back.
>
>CAMBER - the amount the top of the tire tips away from (positive) or in
towards
>(negative) the wheel well.  The more negative, the better the car will
handle in
>corners, since the contact patch will flatten out under load.  Not sure
why one
>would ever want too much camber?

Too much, and you'll wear out the inside of your tires.
>
Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 16:24:00 -0400
From: Brian Geisel <brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dynamic Racing's 11.2 run...

That's not entirely true.  Jason, you have made the assumption that it [his
11.2 ET / 1.62 60' time] was actually 11.74 @ 120.126, yes?  We all know
what happens when we ass-u-me, right ;)

Seriously though, that number has been on 3000gt long before matt ran the 11.2
we're all talking about.  11.74 might be the non-adjusted time, but It wasn't the
non-adjusted time of the 11.2 time he ran.  It was one of his best runs before
his current setup.

So no, the track isn't making a .54 second adjustment due to altitude.  As for the
adjustment, there's something to be said for that.  I'm sure the NDRA (sp?)
tries to keep consistent numbers across the US, and that may be the only way to
get the track in Denver to post similar number to the track near death valley.  I
don't know for sure, but I would imagine they're doing it w/i the national
association's specifications.  I do not, however, know what they are... Anyone?

geis

Errin Humphrey wrote:

> Thanks for pointing that out, Jason.  I didn't
> know about this, and in any case a correction
> this large seems excessive and overly optimistic.
>
> --Errin Humphrey
> Seattle
>
> Jason Barnhart wrote:
>
> > I'm not sure everyone understands (it's kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
> > was AFTER altitude correction of the actual run.  The actual pass was 11.74 at
> > 120.126 according to 3000gt.com.  The disclaimer is not located on the main page,
> > it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even post the actual time.
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 22:44:15 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@bnro.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?

Just found a few good pages describing caster, camber and toe, and the effects
of each.  The second one has diagrams.

http://www.ground-control.com/gctalk5.htm
http://www.advancedracing.com/grmart1.html

Enjoy.

- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html (Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html  (USA)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer, diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:52:06 -0700
From: "Steve Gula" <mrelloco@eudoramail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dynamic Racing's 11.2 run...

I think advertising an adjusted for altitude time is misleading.. but just out of curiosity... what kind of altitude is there in Roswell, NM?  Last time I was out in that area was about 6 years ago to shoot at the NRA range somewhere in NM or AZ..  we drove from colorado and it was a downhill drive to get there...


- ---
- ------------------------------------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula (loco3kgt@ec3s.org)
- --1995 Glacier White Pearl 3000GT
- ------------------
- --East Coast 3000GT/Stealth
- --http://www.ec3s.org/
- ------------------------------------------------


On Sat, 08 Jul 2000 09:48:47   Errin Humphrey wrote:
>Thanks for pointing that out, Jason.  I didn't
>know about this, and in any case a correction
>this large seems excessive and overly optimistic.
>
>--Errin Humphrey
>Seattle
>
>Jason Barnhart wrote:
>
>> I'm not sure everyone understands (it's kinda misleading) that Dynamic's 11.2
>> was AFTER altitude correction of the actual run.  The actual pass was 11.74 at
>> 120.126 according to 3000gt.com.  The disclaimer is not located on the main page,
>> it's under 'Our Cars' and they don't even post the actual time.
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at http://www.eudoramail.com

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 22:52:52 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: RE:Team3S:Low Boost

>        I have [A] setting @1.05 on Boost  and [B] @1.25  After I installed
> the WI, I was able to hit 1.25 boost with no problem but lately I can't
hit
> more than 1.16.

How much knock do you have at 1.2 bars ?
How much water are you spraying ?
What has been done to fullfill the fuel needs ?
How are the O2 sensor readings at WOT around 5000 ?

> Any ideas? Also am still running stock
> BOV. Could this be the problem?

Possible, but I doubt this because then you'd have the problem also at 1
bar.
Idea, well your compression is going lower and lower :( Hope not, but ....

> Secondly, can crossdrilled rotors be turned? If so how?

No, they have to be machined from the top.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 22:55:47 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size

> Is it safe to assume that this is a FULL rotor/caliper replacement,
and..will
- -not- crack or fade?

No fade but crack .. well it's ceramic and IMHO somewhat more prone to
crack. But this is probably the cause that they put in the 4 pads and the
angled caliper so there is probably much less cracking danger.

BTW, I just heard that these brakes are also available for the racing
version of the Ferrari 360 Modena !

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 23:28:48 +0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: ABS, stealths and Hummers

<Big snippo of -- Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany condescending quotes of MY
mail....>

>>I think we've covered this before...

Don't think so.

>> the ABS implementation in the S3 is a TWO-PHASE SYSTEM, where diagonal
corners are linked.

Yadda yadda yadda....then explain me WHY if I put ONE summer/3 winter tires
on snow, I then have the same
INSANELY BAD result as if I had 4 summer tires.

The diagonal corners alre linked via the HYDRAULIC PRESSURE of the brake
system, but there's NOTHING about how
the ABS ECU is analysing the data collected from the sensors.

And, why, when some brake rotors snapped, the 3S lost ALL of the
brakes....not 50% of it, but ALL !!!!

BTW Mr Mattews, We're just posting there our EXPERIENCES, and we're just
trying to understand WHY we had them.

>>  A higher-phase system can not be used due to the all wheel drive.

Please elaborate, I KNOW that it's NOT true in a BMW iX design, in a Subaru,
in a Nissan Skyline, a Lancia Delta....
so why would it be impossible in a Mitsu/Dodge ???

>>This is explained in detail in the S3 instructional videos (speaking of
which: Mike, I still have yours and need to
>>return them to you!).

Send it to ME instead, I'll watch it, (probably make a copy....) and then
send it to "Mike"

Zee you

Henri


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #191
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