team3s              Friday, July 7 2000              Volume 01 : Number 189




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 19:49:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject: Team3S: $140 for Y Pipe + Rubber gasket assembly?!

So a few weeks ago my car started idling like crap (93 VR-4 FYI). I took
it to the dealer finally and they told me that the rubber gasket from the
Y Pipe to the throttle body was ripped. I asked if it would be covered
under my extended warentee (GM Protection Plan) and they said most likely
not because it is only a hose.. So I asked how much it would be. To my
absolute horror (And i explained that to the guy in detail) it was
$140. It turns out that there is no way for me to order JUST the rubber
gasket and not the Y Pipe.

I called Altered Atmosphere that same day and they told me it would be a
few months still before their new Y Pipe is ready... The guy did tell me
that one person fixed the problem (temporarily) by using some rubber hose
that was 3" in diameter and using that as the gasket.

So here's the question.. Does anyone know if there are any cheaper ways to
get that gasket? Or does anyone have an extra one lying around? Are there
any other ways to make a temporary gasket that will DEFINATELY hold the
boost?

Please help! There is NO WAY i'll pay $140 for that stupid pipe when mine
is perfectly fine!

- --Matt Wise


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 20:42:50 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Got any old struts?

While at the recent TransAm race, I ran into a Penske racing shock
specialist, and told him of the woes we have trying to get struts for our
cars (the waiting time for GABs is up to 13 weeks).

He said that if I could send him a set of struts, he'd poke around and see
if he could fit some Penske shocks in there.

Anybody got a set of wore-out front struts from a 94+ VR4 so I can give
this a try? (what else fits?) I'll pay for shipping.

Please come back off list to merritt@cedar-rapids.net if you have a set of
fronts.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:37:13 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?

I have a quick question about alignment since the topic came up.  I was on
an open highway with some curves when a BMW 328--99-00 model started to
persue.  I took it up to about 130-135, and I could not hold the turns while
the BMW wasn't fazed and I had to move over to let him pass.  I thought
those cars were speed limited at like 125 in the US.  Now, I know on a
straight run at 15 psi, he would have been toast, but in 5th gear, I had it
floored and I was just not pulling on him --I just had the car aligned to
specs--Is there settings that are better than specs that might sacrifice
some tire, but give the car less of a loose feeling in a turn at speed?  I
really wanted to hit the brakes cause I was going too fast for the turn, but
I already had the car spin around when I took an exit too fast on another
occasion and incorrectly applied the brakes in the turn to slow it down.  I
learned my lesson the hard way, but luckily, hit nothing.  Funny, cause I do
not remember feeling ABS.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: matthews@bnro.de <matthews@bnro.de>; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Thursday, July 06, 2000 11:36 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: alignment suggestions?


>I would not let a Mitsu dealer align it..
>
>Just my experience.  Took me a long time to find someone who actually knew
what
>they were doing.
>
>Every shop we went to for a year+ (including three different dealers and
most of
>the chains like sears..etc) all could NOT properly align the rear of the
car.
>We honestly thought the car had some old collision damage and took it to a
Bay
>Area local race-shop that from what ppl told me KNEW how to align any car.
>
>One hour later, the car was finally perfectly aligned JUST the way I wanted
>it..and nothing was busted at all.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matthews [mailto:matthews@bnro.de]
>Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 11:22 AM
>To: Team3S Technical Forum
>Subject: Team3S: alignment suggestions?
>
>
>I plan to have Mitsu perform a four-wheel alignment after they install my
new
>hub/bearing, CV joint and Porterfield cryo-treated rotors (if they make it
here
>in time - 68 lbs shipped parcel post two weeks ago).  Can someone please
send me
>resonably good alignment readings for a car set up for good handling?  I
don't
>want to chew through a set of meats TOO quickly, but I can certainly affort
more
>wear than I'm seeing now (35k miles on Pilot XGT-Z4 with at least 25%
>remaining!).  What I'm looking for is more grip in corners (less camber, I
>assume), but I can't put up with a car that wanders all over the road and
tracks
>the slightest rut.
>
>Thanks!! -Jim
>
>--
>Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
>mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
>http://www.bnro.de/~matthews
>
>*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html (Europe)
>http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html  (USA)
>Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
>Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
>K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
>A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
>Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer, diff)
>Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
>Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
>G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
>1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:08:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?

My dad has a 325i and I got to drive it for a weekend and that thing had a
surprising amount of top end power. I actually got back into my VR-4 and
thought "Wow, this doesnt seem that fast anymore". BMW sure builds some
nice engines (lets not start a flame war, PLEASE).

On Thu, 6 Jul 2000, Sam Shelat wrote:

> I have a quick question about alignment since the topic came up.  I was on
> an open highway with some curves when a BMW 328--99-00 model started to
> persue.  I took it up to about 130-135, and I could not hold the turns while
> the BMW wasn't fazed and I had to move over to let him pass.  I thought
> those cars were speed limited at like 125 in the US.  Now, I know on a
> straight run at 15 psi, he would have been toast, but in 5th gear, I had it
> floored and I was just not pulling on him --I just had the car aligned to
> specs--Is there settings that are better than specs that might sacrifice
> some tire, but give the car less of a loose feeling in a turn at speed?  I
> really wanted to hit the brakes cause I was going too fast for the turn, but
> I already had the car spin around when I took an exit too fast on another
> occasion and incorrectly applied the brakes in the turn to slow it down.  I
> learned my lesson the hard way, but luckily, hit nothing.  Funny, cause I do
> not remember feeling ABS.
> Sam
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
> To: matthews@bnro.de <matthews@bnro.de>; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Date: Thursday, July 06, 2000 11:36 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: alignment suggestions?
>
>
> >I would not let a Mitsu dealer align it..
> >
> >Just my experience.  Took me a long time to find someone who actually knew
> what
> >they were doing.
> >
> >Every shop we went to for a year+ (including three different dealers and
> most of
> >the chains like sears..etc) all could NOT properly align the rear of the
> car.
> >We honestly thought the car had some old collision damage and took it to a
> Bay
> >Area local race-shop that from what ppl told me KNEW how to align any car.
> >
> >One hour later, the car was finally perfectly aligned JUST the way I wanted
> >it..and nothing was busted at all.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Matthews [mailto:matthews@bnro.de]
> >Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 11:22 AM
> >To: Team3S Technical Forum
> >Subject: Team3S: alignment suggestions?
> >
> >
> >I plan to have Mitsu perform a four-wheel alignment after they install my
> new
> >hub/bearing, CV joint and Porterfield cryo-treated rotors (if they make it
> here
> >in time - 68 lbs shipped parcel post two weeks ago).  Can someone please
> send me
> >resonably good alignment readings for a car set up for good handling?  I
> don't
> >want to chew through a set of meats TOO quickly, but I can certainly affort
> more
> >wear than I'm seeing now (35k miles on Pilot XGT-Z4 with at least 25%
> >remaining!).  What I'm looking for is more grip in corners (less camber, I
> >assume), but I can't put up with a car that wanders all over the road and
> tracks
> >the slightest rut.
> >
> >Thanks!! -Jim
> >
> >--
> >Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
> >mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
> >http://www.bnro.de/~matthews
> >
> >*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
> >http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html (Europe)
> >http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html  (USA)
> >Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> >Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> >K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
> >A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
> >Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer, diff)
> >Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
> >Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
> >G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> >1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
> >
> >
> >***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
> >
> >***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 21:38:42 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?

At 10:37 PM 7/6/00 -0000, you wrote:
>I have a quick question about alignment since the topic came up.  I was on
>an open highway with some curves when a BMW 328--99-00 model started to
>persue.  I took it up to about 130-135, and I could not hold the turns while
>the BMW wasn't fazed and I had to move over to let him pass. 

I don't think your problem is alignment.
I'd check tire pressure first. To run that fast, you oughta be up close to
40 psi in the fronts. Otherwise, yer front end is going to plow.

Also, if that Bimmer was running that kind of speed, he was no ordinary
driver in an ordinary BMW. Probably had a chip in it, maybe some Z-rated
tires and a camber kit. Ordinary citizens don't drive like that. I think
you ran into a go-faster who just flat out drove you. Probably somebody who
likes to run open track event, and this was his track car. He saw you
ripping along, and decided to play.

Not your fault. You wouldn't feel bad if Mario Andretti outdrove you, so
don't feel bad that somebody with a little schooling blows your doors off.

Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 07:11:42 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@bnro.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: ABS, stealths and Hummers

Genesiscon Lehir wrote:
>
> >>  ABS can modulate each wheel separately
>
> That is THEORY...however, the IMPLEMENTATION of the ABS in MY 92 Stealth
> RT/TT definitively DOES NOT modulate eache wheel separately.
>
>  [ ... ]
>
> However, the ABS in my Dodge is SO BAD that the diffetrence is INSANE..
>
>  [ ... ]
>
> That's correct.....unfortunately...the ABS in my Dodge will UNLOCK ALL the
> wheels (i.e. apply ABS on it) as soon as ANY tire is losing traction.
>
>  [ ... ]
>
> Damm, I do not know what could be WORSE than the ABS in my Dodge. Maybe I
> should get rental cars more often.
>
> [ ... ]
>
> If you get rid of the ABS, you'll discover that the long distance is NOT
> because of the car (or it's weight), but because of the bad design of the
> ABS (it's definitively true in my 92 !!!)
>
>  [ ... ]
>
> PS : Get it right....I've got nothing against the ABS concept itself...but I
> hate the way it's working in MY 92 RT/TT.
> Maybe it was improved in the later models, maybe it's different in a 3000
> gt.
> But I know that ALL my other cars have a better ABS than the one in the
> RT/TT.

I think we've covered this before... the ABS implementation in the S3 is a
TWO-PHASE SYSTEM, where diagonal corners are linked.  A higher-phase system can
not be used due to the all wheel drive.  This is explained in detail in the S3
instructional videos (speaking of which: Mike, I still have yours and need to
return them to you!).

- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html (Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html  (USA)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer, diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 05:09:15 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Braking without a front rotor

>I think we've covered this before... the ABS implementation in the S3 is a
>TWO-PHASE SYSTEM, where diagonal corners are linked.  A higher-phase
system can
>not be used due to the all wheel drive.  This is explained in detail in
the S3
>instructional videos (speaking of which: Mike, I still have yours and need to
>return them to you!).
>
How does this explain why --  when I break a PowerSlot front rotor at the
hub -- I lose ALL the brakes on my 94 VR4?

Seems like I'd just lose two wheels, not all four, according to your
explanation.

Actually, I don't lose ALL braking, but at 100 mph the brakes become
useless. Is it just that I am down to only two working brakes, so it SEEMS
like the brakes are gone?  No one here has ever been able to explain what
happens in our system when a rotor breaks clean off at the hub, as
PowerSlots and other aftermarket rotors are wont to do.

When the car slows down by itself out there on the runoff -- say to 30 mph
or so -- I get braking back. Well, it doesn't slow down by itself, I help
it with downshifts and the emergency brake, but I need lots of room to
bring it down.

I've broken two PowerSlots, so I've been through this experience twice, and
I can tell you that it's a little hairy when a front rotor goes CLANG and
the brakes go bye-bye at 100 mph with a corner coming up. I don't want to
go through that experience ever again. Is there anything we can do to
prevent it? (Other than never buying PowerSlots?)

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 08:02:02 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Size - Was: 18T Turbo's

Thanks everyone for the quick response.  So....I'm left with a bit of a
dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without a lot
more lag.  I also want to leave the engine bay unharmed, so rerouting AC
lines, and IC piping isn't a good choice for me.  Forgive me if this has
been asked before, I couldn't seem to find the list archive page anymore,
does anyone here have experience with the GTPro 355s?  How do they compare
to the 15G.  The 368s look pretty big sitting next to a 15G, and I'm sure
that amount of flow must come with a good deal of lag.  The 18Ts seemed to
allow one to have his cake, and eat it too (provided you're willing to alter
piping).  Anyone have any other thoughts on turbo sizing?  I'd like to see
mid 600 HP.  I don't know if the 15Gs are cable of this kind of power.
Perhaps, if pushed hard enough, and I throw enough fuel and water in the mix
I can squeeze 600 out, but I feel this would be difficult, if not
impossible.

So I would like to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow enough
air to make 600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or lines.

Oh, and it should also be the answer to world peace!  :-)  Seriously, I know
I'm looking for a miracle, but if I have any chance of finding such a turbo,
someone here will know of it.

John Basol
'95 RT/TT <-- looking for some wake up juice

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 06:15:12 PDT
From: "Zentelis none" <zentelis@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tranny Vibration

I've had my car for a couple weeks now and the previous owner had the
gearbox and clutch replaced do to a shifting accident. Since I've had it,
I've noticed vibration, but it's not regular, which makes me wonder if I'm
just a bad shifter (my mom taught me how to drive a manual transmission
years ago..heh-love ya mom! :)
I've noticed the vibration primarily in 6th gear, but I've felt it in 3rd
and 4th and only a couple times in 5th. 6th is definately the worst. I don't
feel it when it's resting in gear, but if I pull back slightly or push
forward slightly, I feel alot of rumble. While driving around, I've tried
shifting very carefully/slowly and once in a while it works out ok and
there's no vibration at all, but when i try the same thing twice, I get
different results. I thought perhaps it was because the RPMs were low, but
it occurs at higher (55+) speeds as well (but not as often). Is this just
part of the cars personality, or could the gearbox/clutch/etc been installed
incorrectly (it was installed 10k miles ago, so I can't imagine anything is
terminally wrong), or am I just a bad shifter? :) Thanks!
- -Aaron
'94 R/T TT
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 15:28:33 +0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size - Was: 18T Turbo's

>big snip>  I would like to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow
enough air to make 600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or
lines.

(IMHO) I don't think you will get 600HP irrespective of which turbo you
choose if you aren't willing to sacrifice your "stock engine look". Upgraded
Intercooler(s) and intercooler piping would be necessary to maintain low
intake temperatures and avoid knock.

As far as I know the GT-Pro 355 turbos aren't street proven. I know they
have been installed but never heard any report regarding the result and
performance. If anyone have tested these turbos then please let us know.

/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu






***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:21:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

John,

My air and fuel flow calculators can make it easy to do some of the
calculations you need to solve this problem.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-air-fuel-flow.htm

If you go to the bottom of the page (the last calculator) and enter 720
cc/min for injector size and 80 for IDC%, you should get almost 600 HP at
0.55 BSFC. Now just fill in what you think the air temperature and
pressure might be in the engine compartment, like 80ºF and 14.7 psi, and
an A/F ratio, like 12.5, and you see that you will need 932 cfm of air.
932 cfm is beyond 15Gs but within the limits of 18Ts. For 650 HP and a
similar setup you would need 87% IDC and 1013 cfm air, which is 368SX
territory. You get the idea. Hope this is helpful.

Hmmm, maybe 15Gs, 720s, and just a 100HP pinch of nitrous when you need
it?

Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
 --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "Team3S list" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 7:02 AM
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Size - Was: 18T Turbo's

Thanks everyone for the quick response.  So....I'm left with a bit of a
dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without a lot
more lag.  I also want to leave the engine bay unharmed, so rerouting AC
lines, and IC piping isn't a good choice for me.  Forgive me if this has
been asked before, I couldn't seem to find the list archive page anymore,
does anyone here have experience with the GTPro 355s?  How do they compare
to the 15G.  The 368s look pretty big sitting next to a 15G, and I'm sure
that amount of flow must come with a good deal of lag.  The 18Ts seemed to
allow one to have his cake, and eat it too (provided you're willing to
alter piping).  Anyone have any other thoughts on turbo sizing?  I'd like
to see  mid 600 HP.  I don't know if the 15Gs are cable of this kind of
power. Perhaps, if pushed hard enough, and I throw enough fuel and water
in the mix I can squeeze 600 out, but I feel this would be difficult, if
not impossible.
 
So I would like to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow enough
air to make 600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or
lines.

Oh, and it should also be the answer to world peace!  :-)  Seriously, I
know I'm looking for a miracle, but if I have any chance of finding such a
turbo, someone here will know of it.
 
John Basol
'95 RT/TT <-- looking for some wake up juice


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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 14:24:08 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft

Would someone be able to give me the part number for the
joint/bearing/whatever I need to replace for the centre joint in the
driveshaft (about the middle of the car) asmine is completely shagged.

At least the gearbox is ok I guess. Means I can put the money I left
asside for replacing the tranny into some nice turbos or something.

Thank
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:29:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft

Gordon,

You can email Tallahassee, Mitsubishi and get the info you need plus a
great price. I don't know what shipping might be to Ireland but it
shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits/

Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
 --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Tyrrell" <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Cc: "Team3S list" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 7:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft

> Would someone be able to give me the part number for the
> joint/bearing/whatever I need to replace for the centre joint in the
> driveshaft (about the middle of the car) asmine is completely shagged.
>
> At least the gearbox is ok I guess. Means I can put the money I left
> asside for replacing the tranny into some nice turbos or something.
>
> Thank
> Gordon
> Dublin, Ireland
> 1993 Japanese Import VR4
> http://fly.to/mr2.ie
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 10:23:26 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: All Struts equal?

Are the struts from all years interchangeable?
That is, will the front struts from a 1st gen fit a 94+?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 08:32:43 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: $140 for Y Pipe + Rubber gasket assembly?!

You  should be able to remove (cut off ?) the stock hose from the y-pipe.  Then
just buy a short length of 2.75" (??, measure before you buy:)) hose and 2
clamps.  Check out the silicone hose & T-clamps at
http://www.turbocharged.com/main.htm, catolog, "T", silicone connectors.

When I bought my car, it was months before I discovered that the previous owner
had already done this.  The orange silicone hose has lasted me over 2.5 years
without any trouble, it is very rugged.

Good luck,
Ken

>
> So a few weeks ago my car started idling like crap (93 VR-4 FYI). I took
> it to the dealer finally and they told me that the rubber gasket from the
> Y Pipe to the throttle body was ripped. I asked if it would be covered
> under my extended warentee (GM Protection Plan) and they said most likely
> not because it is only a hose.. So I asked how much it would be. To my
> absolute horror (And i explained that to the guy in detail) it was
> $140. It turns out that there is no way for me to order JUST the rubber
> gasket and not the Y Pipe.
>
> I called Altered Atmosphere that same day and they told me it would be a
> few months still before their new Y Pipe is ready... The guy did tell me
> that one person fixed the problem (temporarily) by using some rubber hose
> that was 3" in diameter and using that as the gasket.
>
> So here's the question.. Does anyone know if there are any cheaper ways to
> get that gasket? Or does anyone have an extra one lying around? Are there
> any other ways to make a temporary gasket that will DEFINATELY hold the
> boost?
>
> Please help! There is NO WAY i'll pay $140 for that stupid pipe when mine
> is perfectly fine!

- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 17:37:13 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

As our friends already mentioned, 600hp without even replacing one water
hose is not possible. If you want to leave the ICs on you may consider
water injection what also changes the engine compartment. Furthermore, the
stock IC becomes too small and will act as a restriction what causes a loss
in pressure as well as an increase in heat !

>dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without a lot
>more lag.

Well, the 355 ar something like 15g but the GT357 should be what you are
aiming for. They also have the larger turbien wheel and bored out housing.
But installation would probably also cause a change in the water lines as
the stock piping will interfer with the new compressor housing !

>to the 15G.  The 368s look pretty big sitting next to a 15G, and I'm sure
>that amount of flow must come with a good deal of lag.

They flow up to 850cfm each what is an overkill IMHO. I forgot to mention
that I also had to cut out of the front fan mount as the wastegate
interfers with it. Also installing such big things will cause a change in
the front engine mount as well in machining the rear bracket for the plenum/TB.

>   I don't know if the 15Gs are cable of this kind of power.
>Perhaps, if pushed hard enough, and I throw enough fuel and water in the mix
>I can squeeze 600 out, but I feel this would be difficult, if not
>impossible.

Well, the discharge temp will become degraded as the 15g fall out of the
good efficiency lands soon too. This then needs good cooling without the
loss of  boost and this only can do a larger IC stuff.

>So I would like to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow enough
>air to make 600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or lines.

No chance.

>Oh, and it should also be the answer to world peace!  :-)  Seriously, I know
>I'm looking for a miracle, but if I have any chance of finding such a turbo,
>someone here will know of it.

Get in contact with GT PRO and ask for the comparisons between the 355, 357
and the 357 Magnum. But 600hp and even more .... I really don't know
without a real dyno sheet in my hands.

I'm now somethat closer to the final solution as I was able to get the
crank pulley off (and damaged it when I used a gear puller). But my setup
will be somewhat strange as I really want to see how much the stock IC are
a limitation. The 368s I have mounted into the bay are having a large
outlet and the stock piping is too small. I made a reducer from 2" to stock
size (1.5" I guess) and connected them to the stock ICs. With WIS I think I
can handle the additional cooling but I just want to see what the results
will be :) I do have some used Alamo sidemounts that I have to work on
(larger piping of course) that will find their way into the car later
together with the custom IC piping from the FMIC kit I once got. I expect
some real lag although I even felt it between the Stealth 6 speed with 9b
and my 3000GT 3 speed with 13g. My car felt more powerful due to the better
midrange tourque but in the lower end I liked the accelleration of the 6
speed much more !

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:05:34 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Size

-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:37 AM
To: Basol, John; Team3S list
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

As our friends already mentioned, 600hp without even replacing one
water
hose is not possible. If you want to leave the ICs on you may
consider
water injection what also changes the engine compartment.
Furthermore, the
stock IC becomes too small and will act as a restriction what causes
a loss
in pressure as well as an increase in heat !


You forget, I was the first to install WI on a 3S, or at least the
first to admit to it openly.  :-)  I can tolerate minor changes to maybe the
oil or water lines, but my biggest concern was the IC piping.

>dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without
a lot
>more lag.

Well, the 355 ar something like 15g but the GT357 should be what you
are
aiming for. They also have the larger turbien wheel and bored out
housing.
But installation would probably also cause a change in the water
lines as
the stock piping will interfer with the new compressor housing !

Talking with Accelerated Accessories I was told that the GT Pro
turbos had problems with oil seals, and did have quite a noticeable lag.


-John


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 10:53:43 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft

Im about to replace ours with this part number:

"One piece aluminum shaft"


*chuckle*

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Tyrrell [mailto:gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 6:24 AM
Cc: Team3S list
Subject: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft


Would someone be able to give me the part number for the
joint/bearing/whatever I need to replace for the centre joint in the
driveshaft (about the middle of the car) asmine is completely shagged.

At least the gearbox is ok I guess. Means I can put the money I left
asside for replacing the tranny into some nice turbos or something.

Thank
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 17:13:15 -0400
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Braking without a front rotor

Has anyone other than the manufacturer actually done any research to
determine why the rotor is failing?  Is it a stress failure or is it caused
by heat?  I don't know anything about metallurgy, but isn't it fairly likely
that a microscopic inspection of the point of failure  will determine why
the rotor failed?  Speculating on how to fix the problem is pointless until
the cause of the failure is known.


> I've broken two PowerSlots, so I've been through this
> experience twice, and
> I can tell you that it's a little hairy when a front rotor
> goes CLANG and
> the brakes go bye-bye at 100 mph with a corner coming up. I
> don't want to
> go through that experience ever again. Is there anything we can do to
> prevent it? (Other than never buying PowerSlots?)
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 18:09:04 -0400
From: "nketo" <nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

Perhaps what we all need is a kit to install the monster 16G and up turbos
with
heavy duty bearings used on Talons.

Although the work would be a lot to make it happen, it would provide the
utmost in power and reliability
due to the turbine sizes (td05s) and bigger thrust bearings.
Besides, a pair of old school 16G's run around $1400 last I checked.

Anyone heard of such a kit?  What about a Garrett conversion?
Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Noble

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Basol, John <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: Team3S list <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 12:05 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Size


>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl [SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:37 AM
> To: Basol, John; Team3S list
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size
>
> As our friends already mentioned, 600hp without even replacing one
> water
> hose is not possible. If you want to leave the ICs on you may
> consider
> water injection what also changes the engine compartment.
> Furthermore, the
> stock IC becomes too small and will act as a restriction what causes
> a loss
> in pressure as well as an increase in heat !
>
>
> You forget, I was the first to install WI on a 3S, or at least the
> first to admit to it openly.  :-)  I can tolerate minor changes to maybe
the
> oil or water lines, but my biggest concern was the IC piping.
>
> >dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without
> a lot
> >more lag.
>
> Well, the 355 ar something like 15g but the GT357 should be what you
> are
> aiming for. They also have the larger turbien wheel and bored out
> housing.
> But installation would probably also cause a change in the water
> lines as
> the stock piping will interfer with the new compressor housing !
>
> Talking with Accelerated Accessories I was told that the GT Pro
> turbos had problems with oil seals, and did have quite a noticeable lag.
>
>
> -John
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 17:01:04 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Size

Um, has anyone looked into some 20G turbos like they use on the DSM's?  I
don't know anything about them, but I do know they are good for like close
to 500 hp out of that little 4 cylinder.  Where do they stand versus the
GT-Pro turbos?  Also, has anyone even looked into fitment for them?

It seems like they may be the way to go - Mitsubishi built them originally,
I know they are fairly reliable, and they are giant if you are gonna get
more than 400 hp from just ONE.  Imagine two of those puppies...

- -Cody



# Talking with Accelerated Accessories I was told that the GT Pro
#turbos had problems with oil seals, and did have quite a noticeable lag.



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #189
*********************




team3s              Friday, July 7 2000              Volume 01 : Number 190


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 17:09:19 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Braking without a front rotor

At 05:13 PM 7/7/00 -0400, Dave Holden wrote:
>Has anyone other than the manufacturer actually done any research to
>determine why the rotor is failing?  Is it a stress failure or is it caused
>by heat?  I don't know anything about metallurgy, but isn't it fairly likely
>that a microscopic inspection of the point of failure  will determine why
>the rotor failed?  Speculating on how to fix the problem is pointless until
>the cause of the failure is known.
>
I don't give a diddleydamn why the PowerSlots broke. I'll never use them
again.
My question is, what can I do to prevent loss of brakes if I break another
rotor?

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 17:47:04 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

What is the word on ceramic turbine wheels and ball bearings.  Does garrett
make one that would fit our vehicles?  I too am in the market for turbos and
I want to make the jump into low 11s with tremendous top speed ability--like
close to 200mph.  My car runs out of steam at like 130-140 with the 9Bs.  I
know, I want to die.   Speaking of Ceramic, isn't the new Porsche turbo
using ceramic rotors?  Maybe we could pick up those and Brads upgrade to
finally take care of our lead sled problem?

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: nketo <nketo@sympatico.ca>
To: Team3S list <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, July 07, 2000 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size


>Perhaps what we all need is a kit to install the monster 16G and up turbos
>with
>heavy duty bearings used on Talons.
>
>Although the work would be a lot to make it happen, it would provide the
>utmost in power and reliability
>due to the turbine sizes (td05s) and bigger thrust bearings.
>Besides, a pair of old school 16G's run around $1400 last I checked.
>
>Anyone heard of such a kit?  What about a Garrett conversion?
>Any thoughts?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Noble
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Basol, John <jbasol@Carlson.com>
>To: Team3S list <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 12:05 PM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Size
>
>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Roger Gerl [SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
>> Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:37 AM
>> To: Basol, John; Team3S list
>> Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size
>>
>> As our friends already mentioned, 600hp without even replacing one
>> water
>> hose is not possible. If you want to leave the ICs on you may
>> consider
>> water injection what also changes the engine compartment.
>> Furthermore, the
>> stock IC becomes too small and will act as a restriction what causes
>> a loss
>> in pressure as well as an increase in heat !
>>
>>
>> You forget, I was the first to install WI on a 3S, or at least the
>> first to admit to it openly.  :-)  I can tolerate minor changes to maybe
>the
>> oil or water lines, but my biggest concern was the IC piping.
>>
>> >dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without
>> a lot
>> >more lag.
>>
>> Well, the 355 ar something like 15g but the GT357 should be what you
>> are
>> aiming for. They also have the larger turbien wheel and bored out
>> housing.
>> But installation would probably also cause a change in the water
>> lines as
>> the stock piping will interfer with the new compressor housing !
>>
>> Talking with Accelerated Accessories I was told that the GT Pro
>> turbos had problems with oil seals, and did have quite a noticeable lag.
>>
>>
>> -John
>>
>>
>> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>>
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 17:26:07 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Size

> Um, has anyone looked into some 20G turbos like they use on the DSM's?  I
> don't know anything about them, but I do know they are good for like close
> to 500 hp out of that little 4 cylinder.  Where do they stand versus the
> GT-Pro turbos?  Also, has anyone even looked into fitment for them?

The manifolds won't work on the 20G, as the 20G uses the square-style
flange.  You could probably fabricate some sort of adaptor, but there will
be work involved there.  As far as I know, there isn't a reverse-setup 20G
available that would fit the rear side of the engine and still align decent
with the downpipe.  You'd have to fabricate some sort of O2 housing and such
for the rear for sure.

The 20G spools up around 4,000 RPM on a 2.0 liter motor, so if you put it on
a 3/S it would effectively be on a 1.5 liter motor and would spool even
slower.  If it spooled up at 5000, you only have 2000 RPM to redline and
with the wide gearing on our cars that probably wouldn't be very effective.

At some point the "bigger is better" idea runs out as you still have to get
the thing spooled up before it can generate the high flow rates.  You have
to match the motor to the turbo in order to get good efficiency at the flow
rate and pressure you intend on running the turbo in.

The 16G might be a closer fit if you decided to go through all the trouble
of fabricating the necessities.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 00:37:57 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

> The 20G spools up around 4,000 RPM on a 2.0 liter motor, so if you put it
on
> a 3/S it would effectively be on a 1.5 liter motor and would spool even
> slower.  If it spooled up at 5000, you only have 2000 RPM to redline and
> with the wide gearing on our cars that probably wouldn't be very
effective.

The 368s are in the size of 20G (almost the same to be honest !). From other
owners GT PRO told me that they will reach the set bosot level about 1000rpm
later than my 13g today. I expect more, say at about 4300rpm. We will see
soon (why I broke that damn pulley ??)

> At some point the "bigger is better" idea runs out as you still have to
get
> the thing spooled up before it can generate the high flow rates.  You have
> to match the motor to the turbo in order to get good efficiency at the
flow
> rate and pressure you intend on running the turbo in.

I plan to run the 368s not above 1.3 bar  if even necessary as there is a
lot air available in the lower boost region with these huge things. This
should provide me with earlier high boost then.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 00:50:45 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size

> know, I want to die.   Speaking of Ceramic, isn't the new Porsche turbo
> using ceramic rotors?  Maybe we could pick up those and Brads upgrade to
> finally take care of our lead sled problem?

They are optionally. The same rotors (Brembo !) are installed in the AMG C55
that comes in a limited Formula 1 series of 55 cars. The brakes are equpped
with 8-piston calipers .... any wishes ? The brakes are able to withstand
2000°C and have a stopping power of 800PS.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 17:17:07 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size

How much?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl (RTEC) [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 3:51 PM
To: Team3S list
Subject: Team3S: Ceramic brakes was :Turbo Size


> know, I want to die.   Speaking of Ceramic, isn't the new Porsche turbo
> using ceramic rotors?  Maybe we could pick up those and Brads upgrade to
> finally take care of our lead sled problem?

They are optionally. The same rotors (Brembo !) are installed in the AMG C55
that comes in a limited Formula 1 series of 55 cars. The brakes are equpped
with 8-piston calipers .... any wishes ? The brakes are able to withstand
2000°C and have a stopping power of 800PS.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 18:29:46 -0600
From: LIZ HAYDEN <frankliz@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: team3s V1 #189

How do i get my name removed from this list?

- -----Original Message-----
From: team3s [SMTP:owner-team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 4:09 PM
To: team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: team3s V1 #189


team3s              Friday, July 7 2000              Volume 01 : Number 189




- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 19:49:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject: Team3S: $140 for Y Pipe + Rubber gasket assembly?!

So a few weeks ago my car started idling like crap (93 VR-4 FYI). I took
it to the dealer finally and they told me that the rubber gasket from the
Y Pipe to the throttle body was ripped. I asked if it would be covered
under my extended warentee (GM Protection Plan) and they said most likely
not because it is only a hose.. So I asked how much it would be. To my
absolute horror (And i explained that to the guy in detail) it was
$140. It turns out that there is no way for me to order JUST the rubber
gasket and not the Y Pipe.

I called Altered Atmosphere that same day and they told me it would be a
few months still before their new Y Pipe is ready... The guy did tell me
that one person fixed the problem (temporarily) by using some rubber hose
that was 3" in diameter and using that as the gasket.

So here's the question.. Does anyone know if there are any cheaper ways to
get that gasket? Or does anyone have an extra one lying around? Are there
any other ways to make a temporary gasket that will DEFINATELY hold the
boost?

Please help! There is NO WAY i'll pay $140 for that stupid pipe when mine
is perfectly fine!

- - --Matt Wise


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 20:42:50 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Got any old struts?

While at the recent TransAm race, I ran into a Penske racing shock
specialist, and told him of the woes we have trying to get struts for our
cars (the waiting time for GABs is up to 13 weeks).

He said that if I could send him a set of struts, he'd poke around and see
if he could fit some Penske shocks in there.

Anybody got a set of wore-out front struts from a 94+ VR4 so I can give
this a try? (what else fits?) I'll pay for shipping.

Please come back off list to merritt@cedar-rapids.net if you have a set of
fronts.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:37:13 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?

I have a quick question about alignment since the topic came up.  I was on
an open highway with some curves when a BMW 328--99-00 model started to
persue.  I took it up to about 130-135, and I could not hold the turns while
the BMW wasn't fazed and I had to move over to let him pass.  I thought
those cars were speed limited at like 125 in the US.  Now, I know on a
straight run at 15 psi, he would have been toast, but in 5th gear, I had it
floored and I was just not pulling on him --I just had the car aligned to
specs--Is there settings that are better than specs that might sacrifice
some tire, but give the car less of a loose feeling in a turn at speed?  I
really wanted to hit the brakes cause I was going too fast for the turn, but
I already had the car spin around when I took an exit too fast on another
occasion and incorrectly applied the brakes in the turn to slow it down.  I
learned my lesson the hard way, but luckily, hit nothing.  Funny, cause I do
not remember feeling ABS.
Sam
- - -----Original Message-----
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: matthews@bnro.de <matthews@bnro.de>; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Thursday, July 06, 2000 11:36 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: alignment suggestions?


>I would not let a Mitsu dealer align it..
>
>Just my experience.  Took me a long time to find someone who actually knew
what
>they were doing.
>
>Every shop we went to for a year+ (including three different dealers and
most of
>the chains like sears..etc) all could NOT properly align the rear of the
car.
>We honestly thought the car had some old collision damage and took it to a
Bay
>Area local race-shop that from what ppl told me KNEW how to align any car.
>
>One hour later, the car was finally perfectly aligned JUST the way I wanted
>it..and nothing was busted at all.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matthews [mailto:matthews@bnro.de]
>Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 11:22 AM
>To: Team3S Technical Forum
>Subject: Team3S: alignment suggestions?
>
>
>I plan to have Mitsu perform a four-wheel alignment after they install my
new
>hub/bearing, CV joint and Porterfield cryo-treated rotors (if they make it
here
>in time - 68 lbs shipped parcel post two weeks ago).  Can someone please
send me
>resonably good alignment readings for a car set up for good handling?  I
don't
>want to chew through a set of meats TOO quickly, but I can certainly affort
more
>wear than I'm seeing now (35k miles on Pilot XGT-Z4 with at least 25%
>remaining!).  What I'm looking for is more grip in corners (less camber, I
>assume), but I can't put up with a car that wanders all over the road and
tracks
>the slightest rut.
>
>Thanks!! -Jim
>
>--
>Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
>mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
>http://www.bnro.de/~matthews
>
>*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html (Europe)
>http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html  (USA)
>Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
>Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
>K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
>A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
>Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer, diff)
>Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
>Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
>G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
>1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:08:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?

My dad has a 325i and I got to drive it for a weekend and that thing had a
surprising amount of top end power. I actually got back into my VR-4 and
thought "Wow, this doesnt seem that fast anymore". BMW sure builds some
nice engines (lets not start a flame war, PLEASE).

On Thu, 6 Jul 2000, Sam Shelat wrote:

> I have a quick question about alignment since the topic came up.  I was on
> an open highway with some curves when a BMW 328--99-00 model started to
> persue.  I took it up to about 130-135, and I could not hold the turns while
> the BMW wasn't fazed and I had to move over to let him pass.  I thought
> those cars were speed limited at like 125 in the US.  Now, I know on a
> straight run at 15 psi, he would have been toast, but in 5th gear, I had it
> floored and I was just not pulling on him --I just had the car aligned to
> specs--Is there settings that are better than specs that might sacrifice
> some tire, but give the car less of a loose feeling in a turn at speed?  I
> really wanted to hit the brakes cause I was going too fast for the turn, but
> I already had the car spin around when I took an exit too fast on another
> occasion and incorrectly applied the brakes in the turn to slow it down.  I
> learned my lesson the hard way, but luckily, hit nothing.  Funny, cause I do
> not remember feeling ABS.
> Sam
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
> To: matthews@bnro.de <matthews@bnro.de>; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Date: Thursday, July 06, 2000 11:36 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: alignment suggestions?
>
>
> >I would not let a Mitsu dealer align it..
> >
> >Just my experience.  Took me a long time to find someone who actually knew
> what
> >they were doing.
> >
> >Every shop we went to for a year+ (including three different dealers and
> most of
> >the chains like sears..etc) all could NOT properly align the rear of the
> car.
> >We honestly thought the car had some old collision damage and took it to a
> Bay
> >Area local race-shop that from what ppl told me KNEW how to align any car.
> >
> >One hour later, the car was finally perfectly aligned JUST the way I wanted
> >it..and nothing was busted at all.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Matthews [mailto:matthews@bnro.de]
> >Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 11:22 AM
> >To: Team3S Technical Forum
> >Subject: Team3S: alignment suggestions?
> >
> >
> >I plan to have Mitsu perform a four-wheel alignment after they install my
> new
> >hub/bearing, CV joint and Porterfield cryo-treated rotors (if they make it
> here
> >in time - 68 lbs shipped parcel post two weeks ago).  Can someone please
> send me
> >resonably good alignment readings for a car set up for good handling?  I
> don't
> >want to chew through a set of meats TOO quickly, but I can certainly affort
> more
> >wear than I'm seeing now (35k miles on Pilot XGT-Z4 with at least 25%
> >remaining!).  What I'm looking for is more grip in corners (less camber, I
> >assume), but I can't put up with a car that wanders all over the road and
> tracks
> >the slightest rut.
> >
> >Thanks!! -Jim
> >
> >--
> >Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
> >mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
> >http://www.bnro.de/~matthews
> >
> >*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
> >http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html (Europe)
> >http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html  (USA)
> >Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> >Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> >K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
> >A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
> >Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer, diff)
> >Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
> >Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
> >G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> >1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
> >
> >
> >***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
> >
> >***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 21:38:42 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?

At 10:37 PM 7/6/00 -0000, you wrote:
>I have a quick question about alignment since the topic came up.  I was on
>an open highway with some curves when a BMW 328--99-00 model started to
>persue.  I took it up to about 130-135, and I could not hold the turns while
>the BMW wasn't fazed and I had to move over to let him pass. 

I don't think your problem is alignment.
I'd check tire pressure first. To run that fast, you oughta be up close to
40 psi in the fronts. Otherwise, yer front end is going to plow.

Also, if that Bimmer was running that kind of speed, he was no ordinary
driver in an ordinary BMW. Probably had a chip in it, maybe some Z-rated
tires and a camber kit. Ordinary citizens don't drive like that. I think
you ran into a go-faster who just flat out drove you. Probably somebody who
likes to run open track event, and this was his track car. He saw you
ripping along, and decided to play.

Not your fault. You wouldn't feel bad if Mario Andretti outdrove you, so
don't feel bad that somebody with a little schooling blows your doors off.

Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 07:11:42 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@bnro.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: ABS, stealths and Hummers

Genesiscon Lehir wrote:
>
> >>  ABS can modulate each wheel separately
>
> That is THEORY...however, the IMPLEMENTATION of the ABS in MY 92 Stealth
> RT/TT definitively DOES NOT modulate eache wheel separately.
>
>  [ ... ]
>
> However, the ABS in my Dodge is SO BAD that the diffetrence is INSANE..
>
>  [ ... ]
>
> That's correct.....unfortunately...the ABS in my Dodge will UNLOCK ALL the
> wheels (i.e. apply ABS on it) as soon as ANY tire is losing traction.
>
>  [ ... ]
>
> Damm, I do not know what could be WORSE than the ABS in my Dodge. Maybe I
> should get rental cars more often.
>
> [ ... ]
>
> If you get rid of the ABS, you'll discover that the long distance is NOT
> because of the car (or it's weight), but because of the bad design of the
> ABS (it's definitively true in my 92 !!!)
>
>  [ ... ]
>
> PS : Get it right....I've got nothing against the ABS concept itself...but I
> hate the way it's working in MY 92 RT/TT.
> Maybe it was improved in the later models, maybe it's different in a 3000
> gt.
> But I know that ALL my other cars have a better ABS than the one in the
> RT/TT.

I think we've covered this before... the ABS implementation in the S3 is a
TWO-PHASE SYSTEM, where diagonal corners are linked.  A higher-phase system can
not be used due to the all wheel drive.  This is explained in detail in the S3
instructional videos (speaking of which: Mike, I still have yours and need to
return them to you!).

- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html (Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html  (USA)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer, diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 05:09:15 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Braking without a front rotor

>I think we've covered this before... the ABS implementation in the S3 is a
>TWO-PHASE SYSTEM, where diagonal corners are linked.  A higher-phase
system can
>not be used due to the all wheel drive.  This is explained in detail in
the S3
>instructional videos (speaking of which: Mike, I still have yours and need to
>return them to you!).
>
How does this explain why --  when I break a PowerSlot front rotor at the
hub -- I lose ALL the brakes on my 94 VR4?

Seems like I'd just lose two wheels, not all four, according to your
explanation.

Actually, I don't lose ALL braking, but at 100 mph the brakes become
useless. Is it just that I am down to only two working brakes, so it SEEMS
like the brakes are gone?  No one here has ever been able to explain what
happens in our system when a rotor breaks clean off at the hub, as
PowerSlots and other aftermarket rotors are wont to do.

When the car slows down by itself out there on the runoff -- say to 30 mph
or so -- I get braking back. Well, it doesn't slow down by itself, I help
it with downshifts and the emergency brake, but I need lots of room to
bring it down.

I've broken two PowerSlots, so I've been through this experience twice, and
I can tell you that it's a little hairy when a front rotor goes CLANG and
the brakes go bye-bye at 100 mph with a corner coming up. I don't want to
go through that experience ever again. Is there anything we can do to
prevent it? (Other than never buying PowerSlots?)

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 08:02:02 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Size - Was: 18T Turbo's

Thanks everyone for the quick response.  So....I'm left with a bit of a
dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without a lot
more lag.  I also want to leave the engine bay unharmed, so rerouting AC
lines, and IC piping isn't a good choice for me.  Forgive me if this has
been asked before, I couldn't seem to find the list archive page anymore,
does anyone here have experience with the GTPro 355s?  How do they compare
to the 15G.  The 368s look pretty big sitting next to a 15G, and I'm sure
that amount of flow must come with a good deal of lag.  The 18Ts seemed to
allow one to have his cake, and eat it too (provided you're willing to alter
piping).  Anyone have any other thoughts on turbo sizing?  I'd like to see
mid 600 HP.  I don't know if the 15Gs are cable of this kind of power.
Perhaps, if pushed hard enough, and I throw enough fuel and water in the mix
I can squeeze 600 out, but I feel this would be difficult, if not
impossible.

So I would like to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow enough
air to make 600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or lines.

Oh, and it should also be the answer to world peace!  :-)  Seriously, I know
I'm looking for a miracle, but if I have any chance of finding such a turbo,
someone here will know of it.

John Basol
'95 RT/TT <-- looking for some wake up juice

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 06:15:12 PDT
From: "Zentelis none" <zentelis@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tranny Vibration

I've had my car for a couple weeks now and the previous owner had the
gearbox and clutch replaced do to a shifting accident. Since I've had it,
I've noticed vibration, but it's not regular, which makes me wonder if I'm
just a bad shifter (my mom taught me how to drive a manual transmission
years ago..heh-love ya mom! :)
I've noticed the vibration primarily in 6th gear, but I've felt it in 3rd
and 4th and only a couple times in 5th. 6th is definately the worst. I don't
feel it when it's resting in gear, but if I pull back slightly or push
forward slightly, I feel alot of rumble. While driving around, I've tried
shifting very carefully/slowly and once in a while it works out ok and
there's no vibration at all, but when i try the same thing twice, I get
different results. I thought perhaps it was because the RPMs were low, but
it occurs at higher (55+) speeds as well (but not as often). Is this just
part of the cars personality, or could the gearbox/clutch/etc been installed
incorrectly (it was installed 10k miles ago, so I can't imagine anything is
terminally wrong), or am I just a bad shifter? :) Thanks!
- - -Aaron
'94 R/T TT
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 15:28:33 +0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size - Was: 18T Turbo's

>big snip>  I would like to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow
enough air to make 600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or
lines.

(IMHO) I don't think you will get 600HP irrespective of which turbo you
choose if you aren't willing to sacrifice your "stock engine look". Upgraded
Intercooler(s) and intercooler piping would be necessary to maintain low
intake temperatures and avoid knock.

As far as I know the GT-Pro 355 turbos aren't street proven. I know they
have been installed but never heard any report regarding the result and
performance. If anyone have tested these turbos then please let us know.

/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu






***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:21:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

John,

My air and fuel flow calculators can make it easy to do some of the
calculations you need to solve this problem.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-air-fuel-flow.htm

If you go to the bottom of the page (the last calculator) and enter 720
cc/min for injector size and 80 for IDC%, you should get almost 600 HP at
0.55 BSFC. Now just fill in what you think the air temperature and
pressure might be in the engine compartment, like 80oF and 14.7 psi, and
an A/F ratio, like 12.5, and you see that you will need 932 cfm of air.
932 cfm is beyond 15Gs but within the limits of 18Ts. For 650 HP and a
similar setup you would need 87% IDC and 1013 cfm air, which is 368SX
territory. You get the idea. Hope this is helpful.

Hmmm, maybe 15Gs, 720s, and just a 100HP pinch of nitrous when you need
it?

Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
 --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "Team3S list" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 7:02 AM
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Size - Was: 18T Turbo's

Thanks everyone for the quick response.  So....I'm left with a bit of a
dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without a lot
more lag.  I also want to leave the engine bay unharmed, so rerouting AC
lines, and IC piping isn't a good choice for me.  Forgive me if this has
been asked before, I couldn't seem to find the list archive page anymore,
does anyone here have experience with the GTPro 355s?  How do they compare
to the 15G.  The 368s look pretty big sitting next to a 15G, and I'm sure
that amount of flow must come with a good deal of lag.  The 18Ts seemed to
allow one to have his cake, and eat it too (provided you're willing to
alter piping).  Anyone have any other thoughts on turbo sizing?  I'd like
to see  mid 600 HP.  I don't know if the 15Gs are cable of this kind of
power. Perhaps, if pushed hard enough, and I throw enough fuel and water
in the mix I can squeeze 600 out, but I feel this would be difficult, if
not impossible.
 
So I would like to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow enough
air to make 600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or
lines.

Oh, and it should also be the answer to world peace!  :-)  Seriously, I
know I'm looking for a miracle, but if I have any chance of finding such a
turbo, someone here will know of it.
 
John Basol
'95 RT/TT <-- looking for some wake up juice


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 14:24:08 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft

Would someone be able to give me the part number for the
joint/bearing/whatever I need to replace for the centre joint in the
driveshaft (about the middle of the car) asmine is completely shagged.

At least the gearbox is ok I guess. Means I can put the money I left
asside for replacing the tranny into some nice turbos or something.

Thank
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:29:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft

Gordon,

You can email Tallahassee, Mitsubishi and get the info you need plus a
great price. I don't know what shipping might be to Ireland but it
shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits/

Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
 --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- - ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Tyrrell" <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Cc: "Team3S list" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 7:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft

> Would someone be able to give me the part number for the
> joint/bearing/whatever I need to replace for the centre joint in the
> driveshaft (about the middle of the car) asmine is completely shagged.
>
> At least the gearbox is ok I guess. Means I can put the money I left
> asside for replacing the tranny into some nice turbos or something.
>
> Thank
> Gordon
> Dublin, Ireland
> 1993 Japanese Import VR4
> http://fly.to/mr2.ie
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 10:23:26 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: All Struts equal?

Are the struts from all years interchangeable?
That is, will the front struts from a 1st gen fit a 94+?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 08:32:43 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: $140 for Y Pipe + Rubber gasket assembly?!

You  should be able to remove (cut off ?) the stock hose from the y-pipe.  Then
just buy a short length of 2.75" (??, measure before you buy:)) hose and 2
clamps.  Check out the silicone hose & T-clamps at
http://www.turbocharged.com/main.htm, catolog, "T", silicone connectors.

When I bought my car, it was months before I discovered that the previous owner
had already done this.  The orange silicone hose has lasted me over 2.5 years
without any trouble, it is very rugged.

Good luck,
Ken

>
> So a few weeks ago my car started idling like crap (93 VR-4 FYI). I took
> it to the dealer finally and they told me that the rubber gasket from the
> Y Pipe to the throttle body was ripped. I asked if it would be covered
> under my extended warentee (GM Protection Plan) and they said most likely
> not because it is only a hose.. So I asked how much it would be. To my
> absolute horror (And i explained that to the guy in detail) it was
> $140. It turns out that there is no way for me to order JUST the rubber
> gasket and not the Y Pipe.
>
> I called Altered Atmosphere that same day and they told me it would be a
> few months still before their new Y Pipe is ready... The guy did tell me
> that one person fixed the problem (temporarily) by using some rubber hose
> that was 3" in diameter and using that as the gasket.
>
> So here's the question.. Does anyone know if there are any cheaper ways to
> get that gasket? Or does anyone have an extra one lying around? Are there
> any other ways to make a temporary gasket that will DEFINATELY hold the
> boost?
>
> Please help! There is NO WAY i'll pay $140 for that stupid pipe when mine
> is perfectly fine!

- - --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 17:37:13 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

As our friends already mentioned, 600hp without even replacing one water
hose is not possible. If you want to leave the ICs on you may consider
water injection what also changes the engine compartment. Furthermore, the
stock IC becomes too small and will act as a restriction what causes a loss
in pressure as well as an increase in heat !

>dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without a lot
>more lag.

Well, the 355 ar something like 15g but the GT357 should be what you are
aiming for. They also have the larger turbien wheel and bored out housing.
But installation would probably also cause a change in the water lines as
the stock piping will interfer with the new compressor housing !

>to the 15G.  The 368s look pretty big sitting next to a 15G, and I'm sure
>that amount of flow must come with a good deal of lag.

They flow up to 850cfm each what is an overkill IMHO. I forgot to mention
that I also had to cut out of the front fan mount as the wastegate
interfers with it. Also installing such big things will cause a change in
the front engine mount as well in machining the rear bracket for the plenum/TB.

>   I don't know if the 15Gs are cable of this kind of power.
>Perhaps, if pushed hard enough, and I throw enough fuel and water in the mix
>I can squeeze 600 out, but I feel this would be difficult, if not
>impossible.

Well, the discharge temp will become degraded as the 15g fall out of the
good efficiency lands soon too. This then needs good cooling without the
loss of  boost and this only can do a larger IC stuff.

>So I would like to get input as to a direct fit turbo that can flow enough
>air to make 600HP, spool up like a 15G, and not have to redo hoses or lines.

No chance.

>Oh, and it should also be the answer to world peace!  :-)  Seriously, I know
>I'm looking for a miracle, but if I have any chance of finding such a turbo,
>someone here will know of it.

Get in contact with GT PRO and ask for the comparisons between the 355, 357
and the 357 Magnum. But 600hp and even more .... I really don't know
without a real dyno sheet in my hands.

I'm now somethat closer to the final solution as I was able to get the
crank pulley off (and damaged it when I used a gear puller). But my setup
will be somewhat strange as I really want to see how much the stock IC are
a limitation. The 368s I have mounted into the bay are having a large
outlet and the stock piping is too small. I made a reducer from 2" to stock
size (1.5" I guess) and connected them to the stock ICs. With WIS I think I
can handle the additional cooling but I just want to see what the results
will be :) I do have some used Alamo sidemounts that I have to work on
(larger piping of course) that will find their way into the car later
together with the custom IC piping from the FMIC kit I once got. I expect
some real lag although I even felt it between the Stealth 6 speed with 9b
and my 3000GT 3 speed with 13g. My car felt more powerful due to the better
midrange tourque but in the lower end I liked the accelleration of the 6
speed much more !

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:05:34 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Size

-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:37 AM
To: Basol, John; Team3S list
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

As our friends already mentioned, 600hp without even replacing one
water
hose is not possible. If you want to leave the ICs on you may
consider
water injection what also changes the engine compartment.
Furthermore, the
stock IC becomes too small and will act as a restriction what causes
a loss
in pressure as well as an increase in heat !


You forget, I was the first to install WI on a 3S, or at least the
first to admit to it openly.  :-)  I can tolerate minor changes to maybe the
oil or water lines, but my biggest concern was the IC piping.

>dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without
a lot
>more lag.

Well, the 355 ar something like 15g but the GT357 should be what you
are
aiming for. They also have the larger turbien wheel and bored out
housing.
But installation would probably also cause a change in the water
lines as
the stock piping will interfer with the new compressor housing !

Talking with Accelerated Accessories I was told that the GT Pro
turbos had problems with oil seals, and did have quite a noticeable lag.


-John


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 10:53:43 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft

Im about to replace ours with this part number:

"One piece aluminum shaft"


*chuckle*

- - -----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Tyrrell [mailto:gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 6:24 AM
Cc: Team3S list
Subject: Team3S: Part number for centre bearing in driveshaft


Would someone be able to give me the part number for the
joint/bearing/whatever I need to replace for the centre joint in the
driveshaft (about the middle of the car) asmine is completely shagged.

At least the gearbox is ok I guess. Means I can put the money I left
asside for replacing the tranny into some nice turbos or something.

Thank
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 17:13:15 -0400
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Braking without a front rotor

Has anyone other than the manufacturer actually done any research to
determine why the rotor is failing?  Is it a stress failure or is it caused
by heat?  I don't know anything about metallurgy, but isn't it fairly likely
that a microscopic inspection of the point of failure  will determine why
the rotor failed?  Speculating on how to fix the problem is pointless until
the cause of the failure is known.


> I've broken two PowerSlots, so I've been through this
> experience twice, and
> I can tell you that it's a little hairy when a front rotor
> goes CLANG and
> the brakes go bye-bye at 100 mph with a corner coming up. I
> don't want to
> go through that experience ever again. Is there anything we can do to
> prevent it? (Other than never buying PowerSlots?)
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 18:09:04 -0400
From: "nketo" <nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size

Perhaps what we all need is a kit to install the monster 16G and up turbos
with
heavy duty bearings used on Talons.

Although the work would be a lot to make it happen, it would provide the
utmost in power and reliability
due to the turbine sizes (td05s) and bigger thrust bearings.
Besides, a pair of old school 16G's run around $1400 last I checked.

Anyone heard of such a kit?  What about a Garrett conversion?
Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Noble

- - ----- Original Message -----
From: Basol, John <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: Team3S list <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 12:05 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Size


>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl [SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 10:37 AM
> To: Basol, John; Team3S list
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Size
>
> As our friends already mentioned, 600hp without even replacing one
> water
> hose is not possible. If you want to leave the ICs on you may
> consider
> water injection what also changes the engine compartment.
> Furthermore, the
> stock IC becomes too small and will act as a restriction what causes
> a loss
> in pressure as well as an increase in heat !
>
>
> You forget, I was the first to install WI on a 3S, or at least the
> first to admit to it openly.  :-)  I can tolerate minor changes to maybe
the
> oil or water lines, but my biggest concern was the IC piping.
>
> >dilemma...I want something a little larger than a 15G, but without
> a lot
> >more lag.
>
> Well, the 355 ar something like 15g but the GT357 should be what you
> are
> aiming for. They also have the larger turbien wheel and bored out
> housing.
> But installation would probably also cause a change in the water
> lines as
> the stock piping will interfer with the new compressor housing !
>
> Talking with Accelerated Accessories I was told that the GT Pro
> turbos had problems with oil seals, and did have quite a noticeable lag.
>
>
> -John
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 17:01:04 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Size

Um, has anyone looked into some 20G turbos like they use on the DSM's?  I
don't know anything about them, but I do know they are good for like close
to 500 hp out of that little 4 cylinder.  Where do they stand versus the
GT-Pro turbos?  Also, has anyone even looked into fitment for them?

It seems like they may be the way to go - Mitsubishi built them originally,
I know they are fairly reliable, and they are giant if you are gonna get
more than 400 hp from just ONE.  Imagine two of those puppies...

- - -Cody



# Talking with Accelerated Accessories I was told that the GT Pro
#turbos had problems with oil seals, and did have quite a noticeable lag.



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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