team3s
Thursday, July 6
2000
Volume 01 : Number
188
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:43:27 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Help!!!
Sorry..had way way way too many issues coming down
from Sandia pass in our
Stealth/TT on GOOD tires.
Just too heavy..its
just not a snow type car.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Matt Jannusch [mailto:MAJ@bigcharts.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 05, 2000 5:38 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Help!!!
> Wellllll...ok.
> To each thier
own.
> I dont recall any literature praising an AWD/TT sports car..as a
tool
> for winter travel tho.
I don't drive my Spyder in the winter
as it is too nice a car to let the
salt rust away, but I did drive my
previous '94 VR4 in winter. If you get
good snow tires, it is an
excellent winter vehicle and I felt much safer
driving it than any "normal"
car. I have to disagree with disconnecting the
ABS though, since if you
have great tires they should grip plenty to get the
car stopped without a
problem. I don't care what "experts" say about ABS
and winter driving -
when people get in a sticky situation they slam the
brakes HARD and hold them
on and don't even steer which is the worst thing
possible to do. Even
experienced drivers do it on occasion even though they
know better.
I'll take the backup safety of ABS any day.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 19:13:25
PDT
From: "Ryan Meador" <captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Retarded timing...
Folks,
Concerning my earlier post of
bogging and what seemed like retarded
timing------- I just put in 6 new
Nippon plugs and found that the fronts
were Bosch and the backs looked like
original NGK's (Some previous owner was
evidently too lazy to take off the
intake plentum) Anyway, while changing
the fronts we found that someone
disconnected the EGR hose--- which is
fine--- but they never pluged it. We
assumed this must be causing a vacume
leak. We gapped the plugs to .35 (I
hope that's not too small) hooked the
EGR back up and shazam, it pulled like
a car with 300 HP! Thanks to all for
your helpful suggestions. I'm
unbelievably happy.
-
-Ryan
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------------------------------
Date: 5 Jul 2000 20:17:01
-0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
[none]
I briefly worked in the brake systems group at Peterbilt and
although I am far from an expert I did learn some interesting things doing
winter brake testing.
1. ABS is best for maintaining control of your
vehicle when stopping on ice. ABS can modulate each wheel separately which
will allow you stop straight when one side of vehicle has traction and one side
soes not. On a split traction surface it is almost impossible to do a hard stop
without spinning out unless you have ABS. ABS will also allow you to make
a lane change while still braking. A great driver may be able to make a
emergency lane change on ice while still braking but it is not easy.
2.
You can stop a little faster in deep snow and gravel w/o ABS. Deep snow
and gravel will form a ridge in front of your tire, if the tire is locked
up. This ridge of junk will create resistance and slow you down
faster. If you have ABS you will not build up a ridge because you will
roll over it.
3. 4-wheel drive can make you start faster in snow but it
will usually increase your stopping distance on ice because of increased vehicle
weight.
4. All ABS systems are not created equal. I would
rate the 3000GT ABS system better than most rental cars I have driven, mid 90’s
Grand Prix are down right scary.
5. Insurance companies have shown that
ABS does not reduce accident rates, except in preventing rear end
collisons. ABS vehicle are actuaaly more likely to slide off road in
a corner. One theory is that drivers with ABS get over confident and drive
too fast.
6. My wife and I have driven the VR-4 through 2 Indiana
winters (with snow tires) and both of us felt it was much easier to drive my
father-in laws 86 Eldorado (w/o snow tires). The bigest problem we had was
long braking distances on ice and bottoming out on snow when it was over 4”
deep. On the other hand I have a steep driveway and the all wheel drive
climbs it like a mountaint goat.
7. Our host at winter testing was Wabco
ABS systems and they would occasionally let us test drive Hummers on ice,
WHOOHOO! now that was fun! except... the Hummers have less interior room than a
3000GT and the defrosters and heaters are no match for 20 below (F)
temperatures
John Monnin
1991 3000GT VR4
jkmonnin@altavist.com
_______________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 00:00:06
-0700
From: "aa2345" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Noise Update (was Re: tire rubbing on shock)
To Dave,
Thanks for
pointing out the exact problem. Within the next week I will look
at the
front wheel bearing/bearing housing. I will let you know if that
fixes
it.
- -Mike-
94 Pearl Yellow TT
Detroit Metro Area,
Michigan
- -----------Walter D. Best wrote:--------------------
It's
the wheel bearing, I did the same thing last winter, hit ice and very
slowly
slid over and hit the curb, ended up bending the edge of the
rim.
Anyway, it put a real small dimple in the bearing housing and it
did the
exact same thing, clicking sound. It was just enough to drive
you crazy,
and yes once you took off the weight you couldn't find
it.
99% sure anyway, and it's fairly easy thing to fix.
Oh,
mark about three places on the cam bolt and mounting plate, the cam
bolt is
used for the alignment, hopefully you won't have to get it realigned
once you
remove the strut bolts to fix your problem.
Good luck,
Dave
Best
- -------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 04:28:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1st Gen stock turbo boost increase
Hi
John,
Technically there is no way to increase the boost on a totally
stock 1st
gen TT to 12 psi becuase there is no way to know when you reach 12
psi.
The stock "boost gauge" is not that at all, but a dial that shows what
the
ECU thinks the boost might be. My stock '92 TT only developed about
6-7
psi (measured with a boost gauge) even though the stock gauge showed
more.
The sad fact is that on many older cars, the boost control solenoid
really
does nothing and the manifold pressure is sent directly to the
wastegates,
which then open naturally at about 6-7 psi (even on newer
cars).
The safest way to increase the power by increasing boost pressure
is to
have an aftermarket boost gauge. This gauge is usually included in
an
aftermarket electronic boost controller (EBC). If you just have
an
aftermarket gauge, then pinching the hose that comes comes off the
Y-pipe
(and goes eventually to the BC solenoid) with a small clamp is
the
cheapest and easiest way to fool the wastegates. Bleeder or
constrictor
valves on the same hose will work too. However, for $300-500 an
EBC is
your safest bet. You risk too-high boost pressure and engine
damage
without a real gauge, and that's many thousands of dollars! BTW,
these
cars really wake up around 14-15 psi boost pressure, which is also
about
the safe upper limit with the stock fuel system.
Jeff
Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
--> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/
3000GT/Stealth
Manuals on CD
--> http://www.manualcd.com/
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "John Monnin" <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
To:
<team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 05, 2000 6:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: 1st Gen stock turbo boost
increase
> It hase been mentioned on this list that the
91-92?,93? twin turbos are
restricted to 9Lbs of Boost but the 93?, 94?
and up models have 12 Lbs of
boost available.
> Is there a way
to increase the boost on a 91 to 12 Psi using stock parts
is this too
expensive. I am lukewarm on the idea of adding a bleeder
valve and I am
not financially ready to buy a god boost controller.
>
> John
Monnin
> 91 VR-4 (hope to be back together soon)
> jkmonnin@altavista.com
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 08:30:11
-0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: Team3S:
18T Turbo's
A while back the efficiency maps for the 18T turbos
posted. I was much
impressed with what I saw (as were a number of
others on this list). I have
tried my hardest to find a source for
these turbo's, but so far no luck.
Can anyone here tell me where I might
obtain a set of these?
John Basol
'95 RT/TT
***
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 15:45:02
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 18T Turbo's
A while back the efficiency maps for the 18T
turbos posted. I was much
impressed with what I saw (as were a number
of others on this list). I have
tried my hardest to find a source for
these turbo's, but so far no luck.
Can anyone here tell me where I might
obtain a set of these?
Mikael will for sure give you the correct input as
he thinks about putting
a kit together.
Please note these turbos are
not direct bolt on as the housing doesn't fit
our exhaust manifolds and also
be preparred to work on your rear A/C lines.
The compressor housing seems to
be big with a special mounting part and you
have to prevent the thing to
bang against the firewall when the motor is
moving in the mounts too much.
But I'm sure the performance will be very
good for sure and IMHO are the
better choice than the 368s I installed
(with only making custom water
lines/hoses and cutting a rear bracket)
although they have a bored out
turbine housing.
The turbos should probably be gotten directly from Volvo
as they seem to be
the stock part for the Vxx T series. I don't know about
how to attch them
to the manifold nor how the exhaust side looks like. Hmmm,
coudl become
very expensive :(
Hope to hear from Mikael soon as he'll
report the performance for sure.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 07:03:52
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 18T Turbo's
John,
Contact Mikael Kenson about the
18Ts. His web site is:
http://www.3000gt.nu/
The 18T's
compressor performance looks superior to the 15Gs but I don't
think they are
a direct drop-in like the 15Gs. Also, the rated flow is
"only" about 25% more
than the 15Gs. For significantly more air flow, like
more than 1000 cfm, we
need something like GT-Pro's GT368-SX turbos (rated
at over 650 cfm each).
Check out the "page locator" at my web site to see
RPM lines I superimposed
on the compressor maps of the 15G, 18T, and
368SX.
Jeff Lucius
Red
1992 Stealth TT - modified
--> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "Team3S"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 06, 2000 7:30 AM
Subject: Team3S: 18T Turbo's
> A
while back the efficiency maps for the 18T turbos posted. I was
much
> impressed with what I saw (as were a number of others on this
list). I
have
> tried my hardest to find a source for these
turbo's, but so far no luck.
> Can anyone here tell me where I might
obtain a set of these?
>
> John Basol
> '95
RT/TT
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 17:15:51
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 18T
Turbo's
Roger, Jason, Jeff...
A while back the efficiency
maps for the 18T turbos posted. I was much
impressed with what I saw
(as were a number of others on this list). I have
tried my hardest to
find a source for these turbo's, but so far no luck.
Can anyone here tell me
where I might obtain a set of these?
>Mikael will for sure give you
the correct input as he thinks about putting
a kit together.
Yes I
will maybe but a kit together BUT the kit will not be ready untill I
have
proved the advantage over the 15G turbos. (I can get the
turbos
however.)
>Please note these turbos are not direct bolt
on
No several modifiacations have to be done
>as the housing
doesn't fit our exhaust manifolds
A Volvo 18T turbo will not fit our
exhasut manifolds.
BUT, we made a hybrid turbo with the compressor house from
a Volvo (TD04HL)
with 18T compressor and a exhaust side from a stock
Mitsubishi 3000GT TD04
turbo. So the 18T turbos that I use are direct bolt on
when it comes to the
exhasust manifold and exhaust system.
>and
also be preparred to work on your rear A/C lines.
Yes the BOV on the rear
turbo comes to close to the A/C line on the firewall
so that pipe have to be
rerouted.
You also have to modify the oil in line on the rear turbo and
also the rear
water line on the rear turbo. The electrical fan on the
passangerside have
to be removed and a new thinner fan has to be installed.
The front engine
mount have to be modified (just grind of a few mm). The rear
intercooler
pipe have to be cutted and mounted with clamps and hose. The
intake hoses
have to be warmed and stretched to fit over the turbo air
inlets.
But if that's not a problem for you then I think these babies
will kick a$$
>you have to prevent the thing to bang against the
firewall when the motor
is
moving in the mounts too much.
New
harder engine mounts are a good idea, not just for these turbos,
harder
mounts will help our transmissins from failure.
>But I'm
sure the performance will be very good for sure and IMHO are the
better
choice than the 368s I installed (with only making custom water
lines/hoses
and cutting a rear bracket)
:) I sure hope you are right about that
Roger.
>. Hmmm, coudl become very expensive :(
Yep little more
expensive than 15G turbos...
2.350 USD if you provide 9B cores (or 13G
etc) No extra if you want clipped
or bigger turbine or maybe a 19T
compressor... If anyone is interested I can
order these for you but as I said
the installation is a bit tricky and I
can't provide the recesary parts right
now.
>Hope to hear from Mikael soon as he'll report the performance
for sure.
The new intercooler is ready now so now it's "only" to fit
everything into
the car and start tuning the engine management
system...
If you are interested to see pics of the 18T turbos and some of
my other
mods please visit mny homepage http://www.3000gt.nu Click on
"UPDATE..
Massive mod..." the go to my "secret" future
page.
Regards
Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu
***
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 08:37:25
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Master Cylinder
Replacement
> I am getting ready to replace my
clutch master cylinder and was
> looking in the service manual. It
says I need to remove the brake
> booster to get the clutch cylinder
out. After looking under the hood I
> think they are correct.
So has anyone done this? Will it be possible
> for me to unbolt the
brake booster and move it out of the way without
> removing the hydraulic
lines. I just bleed my brakes with Super Blue
> and do not want to
go through another quart+ of that stuff.
You don't have to remove the
brake booster, you just have to move it. However
in order to move it
you will have to detach the hydraulic lines. It is really
tight and a
challange to reach the nuts for the clutch master.
Good
luck,
Ken
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 17:04:55
+0100
From: Martin <martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
plastic window refurb
Hi All
Has anyone successfully refurbished the
plastic side windows behind the
door glass on the 3000gt?
Mine have a
fogging effect on them and look nasty, i was thinking of
spraying them with
clear cellulose lacquer to see if that would work but
someone may have a
better idea, apart from buying new ones of course.
Cheers
Martin
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 11:25:43
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: plastic window refurb
Just use some Meguier's cleaner or
cleaner/wax on it and buff it out. It
works like a charm. Then
put a good coat of wax on it when your done. Its
a 5 minute solution
to a very common problem on the 3000GT.
later,
Curt
3/S CarParts
at: http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
>From:
Martin <martin@star.co.uk>
>To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject:
Team3S: plastic window refurb
>Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 17:04:55
+0100
>
>Hi All
>Has anyone successfully refurbished the
plastic side windows behind the
>door glass on the 3000gt?
>Mine
have a fogging effect on them and look nasty, i was thinking of
>spraying
them with clear cellulose lacquer to see if that would work but
>someone
may have a better idea, apart from buying new ones of
course.
>Cheers
>Martin
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 20:22:01
+0200
From: Matthews <matthews@bnro.de>
Subject: Team3S:
alignment suggestions?
I plan to have Mitsu perform a four-wheel
alignment after they install my new
hub/bearing, CV joint and Porterfield
cryo-treated rotors (if they make it here
in time - 68 lbs shipped parcel
post two weeks ago). Can someone please send me
resonably good
alignment readings for a car set up for good handling? I don't
want to
chew through a set of meats TOO quickly, but I can certainly affort more
wear
than I'm seeing now (35k miles on Pilot XGT-Z4 with at least
25%
remaining!). What I'm looking for is more grip in corners (less
camber, I
assume), but I can't put up with a car that wanders all over the
road and tracks
the slightest rut.
Thanks!! -Jim
- --
Jim
Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(USA)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 14:07:10
+0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: ABS was RE: Team3S: Tire Help!!!
>>I
don't drive my Spyder in the winter
Damm, I'd like to get a Spyder...but
not available locally
>> as it is too nice a car to let the salt
rust away
The 3S are pretty well protected against salt.
I once had a
deep scratch close to the fuel trap (the bare metal was
exposed), and after
driving the car
on salty roads (the time required to get an appointment to
have the car
repainted),
there was not a single spot of rust
there.
>>If you get good snow tires, it is an excellent winter
vehicle and I felt
much safer
>>driving it than any "normal"
car.
It is.
>>I have to disagree with disconnecting the ABS
though, since if you have
great tires they
>>should grip plenty to
get the car stopped without a problem. I don't care
what "experts" say
about ABS
>>and winter driving - when people get in a sticky situation
they slam the
brakes HARD and hold them
Ok, your mileage may me
different :-)
>> on and don't even steer which is the worst thing
possible to do.
Because they haven't been TRAINED to do
so
>> Even experienced drivers do it on occasion even though
they know better.
They do not practice enough
>> I'll
take the backup safety of ABS any day.
Ok....let's face the
following.
On a test-safety track, we simulated a downhill, with
ice.
There a small downhill, and we but some Teflon "carpet" on it, and made
it
wet. The slope was about 20 meters long, and 10% down, and it was
slippery.
Then we got a LOT of ABS equipped cars going down that slope, at
walking
speed, trying to STOP the car as soon as possible
The results
were......enlightening...
MOST of the older cars (i.e older than 95) simpley
COULD NOT stop until the
end of the downhill. The cars were IMPOSSIBLE to
STOP, PERIOD. The wheels
would NOT lock, and the cars would NOT
stop.
About 50% of the newer cars COULD NOT STOP either.
This included
Toyotas, Subarus, Mitsu, Mercedes, VW, Audi, Renault, Ford,
etc etc
etc.
Upon disconnecting the ABS (removing the Fuse), all (ALL, as in ALL
OF THEM)
could STOP without ANY PROBLEM. At most it was about halfway through
the
slope !!!!, but they ALL STOPPED. Sure, some or all tires locked...but
they
all stopped.
I'll make it clearer....the same car, that simply
COULDN'T STOP on the SAME
slope 3 minutes before had NO PROBLEM to stop in
the middle of it....after
we disconnected the ABS. So, please tell me now
that in THIS situation, the
ABS is SAFER !
And....given that the
teflon carpet do NOT form a ridge in front of the
tire, this was not the
explanation.
I have a downhill not far from home....I know that...if it's
icy or snowy,
and if I have the ABS on....and if I put my car on it, at ANY
speed (even at
1 mph), I will NOT BE ABLE to stop in that downhill. Hell I
could press as
hard as possible on the brakes, the car will NOT stop...it
will not even
SLOW DOWN, it will ACCELERATE !!!!!!!
If I remove the ABS, I
have NO problem to stop. Granted, I'll lock one or
two tires...but I'll
stop.
And, of course, I have zero problem to take that road UP-Hill...so
it's NOT
a TRACTION problem.
It's a ....ahem...design feature.
Like I
said before, these are the facts, in MY car...your might
ne
different.
Zee you
Henri
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:07:49
-0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: alignment suggestions?
e:
>I plan to have Mitsu perform
a four-wheel alignment after they install my new
>hub/bearing, CV joint
and Porterfield cryo-treated rotors (if they make it
here
>in time - 68
lbs shipped parcel post two weeks ago).
They shoulda been there in three
days. I'd check with Porterfield.
Can someone please send
me
>resonably good alignment readings for a car set up for good
handling? I
don't
>want to chew through a set of meats TOO
quickly, but I can certainly
affort more
>wear than I'm seeing now (35k
miles on Pilot XGT-Z4 with at least 25%
>remaining!). What I'm
looking for is more grip in corners (less camber, I
>assume), but I can't
put up with a car that wanders all over the road and
tracks
>the
slightest rut.
I run 1.25 deg negative camber, maximum castor, and 0.15
deg positive toe
in the front, and 1.5 deg negative camber in the rear.
Corners like a
go-kart. It will wear the tires a little on the inner tread,
but you can
fix that by remounting the tires and rotating them at
half-life.
Ric/old poop/94 VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 15:19:47
-0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Marshalltown on July 19
We will be running laps at the
Marshalltown Go-Kart track in Marshalltown,
Iowa on Wednesday, July 19, from
10 am to 5pm. $50 gets you all the laps
you can stand.
It's a great
chance to see what your 3000GT/Stealth can do on a race track
under
non-racing conditions.
No rules, no pylons, no sanctioning clubs, no
nothing -- except you gotta
have a helmet and sign a waiver. We'll have some
instructors from the
Porsche and BMW clubs on hand to help. We usually have
10-15 cars, so it's
never crowded. You can literally lap as much as you like.
I usually run 75
laps, doing about 15-20 at a time.
Marshalltown is a
0.6 mile paved track that's about 25 ft wide and has 12
turns, mostly lefts.
We run it in 2nd or 3rd gear in 42 seconds, for a 55
mph average speed. Top
speed is about 70-75.
For more on the track, including a track photo and
layout, go to
http://www.bestofiowa.com/ia-intl-raceway/index.html
Marshalltown
is in the middle of Iowa, about 5 hours away from everywhere
- -- Kansas
City, Minneapolis, Milwaukee, Chicago and St. Louis.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 16:15:51
EDT
From: Shivy13@aol.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: plastic window refurb
There is a way to
strip and re-coat them. If you look around you will
find a product that
pilots use to redo the front plexi-glass sections of an
airplane. I
have heard that it works on those windows. A guy I talked to has
done it,
the only problem is finding the product.
Michael
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 09:14:04
-0400
From: Brian Geisel <brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Help!!!
Genesiscon Lehir wrote:
>
>>Rain/snow/ice only serve to greatly magnify our car's one great
>
problem..weight.
>
> Naah....We're losing serious HP through the
AWD...actually, limited traction
> conditions are where the 3S
> is
at its peak potential....
>
> Henri
I don't get to excited
about loosing HP through AWD. <G> With our 6 speed
gearbox
combined with how tall it is, torque really shouldn't be a
problem.
Especially since it takes a moment before the turbos spool, which is
just about
enough time to back of the gas if need be.
I lived in
Pittsburgh for a while and I actually appreciated the weight of
the
car.
All the american muscle cars turned into bobsleds with tires the
same size as
ours. Tires as big as ours are designed to have a large
surface area, which is
exactly what you don't want in snow. So the
weight helps our traction in
snow and rain - any where you would
hyrdoplane. Ever hear of anyone putting
sand bags in their cars?
Well ours just come equipped with them <HG>
geis
;)
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 13:42:51
-0700
From: Jim Watkins <jwatkins@mails.terayon.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: plastic window refurb
Here is the URL for Chief Aircraft
Supply
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/Aircraft/Windshields/ScratchRemoval.html
Jim
Shivy13@aol.com
wrote:
> There is a way to strip and re-coat
them. If you look around you will
> find a product that pilots use to redo
the front plexi-glass sections of an
> airplane. I have heard that
it works on those windows. A guy I talked to has
> done it, the only
problem is finding the product.
>
> Michael
>
>
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 13:52:50
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: alignment suggestions?
- ----- Original Message ----- From:
"Matthews" <matthews@bnro.de>
> I plan to have
Mitsu perform a four-wheel alignment after they install
my new
>
hub/bearing, CV joint and Porterfield cryo-treated rotors (if they
make it
here
> in time - 68 lbs shipped parcel post two weeks ago). Can
someone
please send me
> resonably good alignment readings for a car
set up for good handling?
I don't
> want to chew through a set of meats
TOO quickly, but I can certainly
affort more
> wear than I'm seeing now
(35k miles on Pilot XGT-Z4 with at least 25%
> remaining!). What I'm
looking for is more grip in corners (less
camber, I
> assume), but I
can't put up with a car that wanders all over the road
and tracks
> the
slightest rut.
I saw Rich Merritt's answer on his camber settings, and I
concur...
Mine are just slightly different from his, but I have a NT, so
mine
don't apply to you. But when you signed back on to the list a
couple of
days ago, you had just missed a lengthy discussion (with the
expected
variances in opinion) about tire inflation as an important
performance
setting-- harder with performance tires, softer with racing tires
was
the apparent consensus. In short, we agreed that you must determine
the
ideal inflation on your own... Either by trial and error, or on
the
track with chalk and a pyrometer, or all of the above. Pull the
Digests
off the Archive page for 6/30, 7/1, 7/2, 7/3 to catch up... For
those
of you who don't know where that is, it's:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Archive.htm
Wide
tires will always track the smallest rut in the road at
standard
inflations. They will also hydroplane more. The only 2
ways around
this is to switch to narrower tires, or pump up the ones you've
got. A
good starting point is to go with Mitsu's recommendation for
speeds over
100: Whatever it says on the door label, inflate the fronts
+7lbs and
the rears +4lbs from that setting. My settings are more like
the
maximum settings on the tire (!) PLUS those numbers!
Front-to-Rear
spread seems to be less for the turbos than on my FWD NA;
around 4 lbs
for the turbos (I use 6 lbs). I experiment with each new
tire I get (on
any car), starting with 50F/44R and working my way down by 4
lbs until
the car doesn't feel 'nimble' anymore. I'll gamble and guess
that if
you start at around 42F/38R, you'll like what you feel. Do this
before
you get your alignment...
Good
luck!
Forrest
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:52:48
-0400
From: "Eddie" <stealth3@superservers.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Downpipe / Exhaust upgrade options
Hello
everyone..
When I bought my 92 R/T - The previous
owners had ran a new 3" cat-back
exhaust with a borla muffler. - It still has
the pre-cats and main cat.
My downpipe has developed a
small leak (in the flex section) and I would
like to get an aftermarket
downpipe to replace it..
So.. My question is. What
downpipe would you recommend? - I wouldn't
mind picking up the ATR with the
full downpipe and cat-back system, but it
is a little pricey.. - What would
you recommend? - My options appear to just
replace the downpipe (what model
would you recommend) - or replace the
downpipe
and the entire exhaust
system (what model would you recommend here?)
Where
would you recommend that I purchase these items at?
I have a FIPK, Profec
A (to be replaced soon with the dual solenoid
setup). - Recently rebuilt
motor.
Thanks for the tips.
Eddie
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 23:20:20
+0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: RE: ABS, stealths and
Hummers
>>1. ABS is best for maintaining control of your vehicle
when stopping on
ice.
To maintain STEERING control...I
agree
>> ABS can modulate each wheel separately
That
is THEORY...however, the IMPLEMENTATION of the ABS in MY 92 Stealth
RT/TT
definitively DOES NOT modulate eache wheel separately.
>>On a split
traction surface it is almost impossible to do a hard stop
without spinning
out unless you have ABS.
We have voluntary trainings here (mostly paid by
insurance companies), and
we learn how to do that.
>>A great
driver may be able to make a emergency lane change on ice while
still braking
but it is not easy.
It is not...but practice, practice, practice
!!
>>2. You can stop a little faster in deep snow and gravel w/o
ABS.
This is true even if you have a PERFECT ABS
implementation...
However, the ABS in my Dodge is SO BAD that the diffetrence
is INSANE..
>>Deep snow and gravel will form a ridge in front of
your tire, if the tire
is locked up. This ridge of junk will create
>>resistance and slow you down
faster. If you have ABS you will
not build up a ridge because you will roll
over it.
That's
correct.....unfortunately...the ABS in my Dodge will UNLOCK ALL the
wheels
(i.e. apply ABS on it) as soon as ANY tire is losing traction.
>>3.
4-wheel drive can make you start faster in
snow
Definitively
>> but it will usually increase your
stopping distance on ice because of
increased vehicle
weight.
Well....it you have two cars, WITH THE SAME WEIGHT, one being an
AWD, the
second one being a 2WD, then there would be no
difference.
>>4. All ABS systems are not created equal.
My
god, no...that's definitively true
>> I would rate the
3000GT ABS system better than most rental cars I have
driven
Damm, I
do not know what could be WORSE than the ABS in my Dodge. Maybe I
should get
rental cars more often.
>>mid 90’s Grand Prix are down right
scary.
Well.....I'm afraid we do not have these cars available
here
>>5. Insurance companies have shown that ABS does not reduce
accident rates,
except in preventing rear end collisons.
IF the
driver realises that he has to STEER away ....ABS is a tool, and one
must
knoe how to use it.
>>One theory is that drivers with ABS get over
confident and drive too fast.
Same applies with AWD cars. In europe the
Audi Quattro were known to
generate "over confidence"
>>6. My
wife and I have driven the VR-4 through 2 Indiana winters (with snow
tires)
and both of us felt it was much easier >>to drive my father-in laws
86
Eldorado (w/o snow tires). The bigest problem we had was long
braking
distances on ice
If you get rid of the ABS, you'll discover
that the long distance is NOT
because of the car (or it's weight), but
because of the bad design of the
ABS (it's definitively true in my 92
!!!)
>>and bottoming out on snow when it was over 4”
deep.
Ahem...yup...nothing you can really do against
that...
>>On the other hand I have a steep driveway and the all
wheel drive climbs
it like a mountaint
goat.
Sure
>>Hummers on ice, WHOOHOO! now that was fun!
except...
I WANT ONE ;-)......except that here, they are LARGER than
some
roads.....and are diezel guzzlers....but....
Henri
PS :
Get it right....I've got nothing against the ABS concept itself...but I
hate
the way it's working in MY 92 RT/TT.
Maybe it was improved in the later
models, maybe it's different in a 3000
gt.
But I know that ALL my other
cars have a better ABS than the one in the
RT/TT.
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 16:33:37
-0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: alignment suggestions?
I would not let a Mitsu dealer align
it..
Just my experience. Took me a long time to find someone who
actually knew what
they were doing.
Every shop we went to for a year+
(including three different dealers and most of
the chains like sears..etc)
all could NOT properly align the rear of the car.
We honestly thought the car
had some old collision damage and took it to a Bay
Area local race-shop that
from what ppl told me KNEW how to align any car.
One hour later, the car
was finally perfectly aligned JUST the way I wanted
it..and nothing was
busted at all.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matthews [mailto:matthews@bnro.de]
Sent: Thursday,
July 06, 2000 11:22 AM
To: Team3S Technical Forum
Subject: Team3S:
alignment suggestions?
I plan to have Mitsu perform a four-wheel
alignment after they install my new
hub/bearing, CV joint and Porterfield
cryo-treated rotors (if they make it here
in time - 68 lbs shipped parcel
post two weeks ago). Can someone please send me
resonably good
alignment readings for a car set up for good handling? I don't
want to
chew through a set of meats TOO quickly, but I can certainly affort more
wear
than I'm seeing now (35k miles on Pilot XGT-Z4 with at least
25%
remaining!). What I'm looking for is more grip in corners (less
camber, I
assume), but I can't put up with a car that wanders all over the
road and tracks
the slightest rut.
Thanks!! -Jim
- --
Jim
Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:matthews@bnro.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://www.bnro.de/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(USA)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer,
diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin
Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
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End of team3s V1
#188
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