team3s
Wednesday, July 5
2000
Volume 01 : Number
187
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 05 Jul 2000 09:18:25 CDT
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Installing/Removing tranny
techniques
Chris....Others,
Yes, putting the tranny back in is the
difficult part. I have done
6(yes..6..1-6spd and 5-5spds) by myself
with only a floor jack to help me.
I can actually get one out in about
2.5 hrs if I hurry(if the exhaust nuts
are not rusted and engine is
cool.)
I'm calling the front of the tranny the bell housing and the rear
of the
tranny...the other end.
To get it to clear the frame when
removing you will slide it away(while on
floor jack) from the engine about
1-2". Then, you will start lowering the
jack so that the back of the
tranny starts to fall. Keep the bell housing
high. The idea is
to clear the frame by lowering the back of the
tranny(probably a 30deg
angle) and once clear you can move it completely
away from the engine and
continue to lower the jack.
If you have the car high enough, you can get
the tranny out while still on
the jack.(I use 3-ton jack stands. I
place 4x4s on top of the jack and use
the area just behind the front wheel
wells(rocker panels?) to mount my
jacks. The 4x4s add height as well
as spread the weight of the car so you
don't damage with the
jacks.
Putting the tranny back in is of course more of a pain. But,
I do not have
a problem clearing the frame and getting it in to position, if
you follow my
method above in reverse(Bell housing high..~30deg angle and
then follow with
the rear of the tranny once it clears the frame). My
problem is lining up
the tranny input shaft with the clutch
disk(splines). A couple of times I
have done this it has slid right in
and the others take a little/lot
longer(jack up/down a little at time until
you get it lined up.)
I can do one in about 8-10 hrs by myself. Most of
the time putting
everything back together of
course!
Notes:
1)You did the engine so I'm assuming that you
have good
organization/mechanical skills...but for everyone else....get a
Service
Manual, plastic containers/bags,etc...a lot of shelf space and a
clean work
area. Air tools are a must!!!! I can't imagine doing it
without them.
2) Be very careful when using jack stands. I actually
have stumps that I
put under the car just in case the jack stands were to
fail. I jack up the
hole car about 24 inches. I also wire a 10
inch piece of 2x4 to the floor
jack pad to protect the tranny and provide a
larger area for the tranny to
sit on.
3)You do not have to pop the
ball joints to remove the cv axels. Just
remove the control arm from
the frame and the stabilizer links. This will
allow you to swing the
hole assembly(strut/hub/brakes,etc) out of the way
enough to pull the axel
out of the hub.
4) Turn the flywheel unless you are confident that it
does not need to be
turned(it is stepped/cupped so two surfaces need to be
turned to stock specs
unless the clutch mfgr says otherwise.) I
aligned the clutch disk by eye.
Tool is not necessary. Just make sure
that it is visually centered(there is
a hole in the flywheel that I center
it to)
5)You want to make sure that you do not pinch the wiring harness
that is
above the bell housing between the engine and tranny. I wire
it out of the
way.
If you have any questions let me know.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>Ok, I need to replace my clutch before I
raise my boost. I replaced my
>engine myself but I had lots of
trouble removing and installing the tranny.
>It took me and two other guys
4 hours of extreme hardship to get the tranny
>back in position to bolt it
back onto the engine. I know there must be a
>simplier method of
doing this
procedure.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 10:28:33
-0400
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: best prices for high rise hoods for our cars.
George,
I
appreciate very much your raising these legitimate concerns. I am
going
to be in touch with ROBOCAR to address these issues specifically.
If they are
not able to supply us with the quality that is expected and
deserved for our
cars, we simply won't order from them.
However, if I can get ligitamate
proof and a good example of what it is
we are looking at, we all may be able
to benefit greatly from this deal.
I will let you all know as soon as I
hear back from ROBOCAR.
Thanks again, George for expressing your
concerns.
Much appreciated.
Thanks,
Boris
George
Kuo wrote:
> I would NOT recommend any custom work done at
ROBOCAR.
> From previous personal experience and of my
friends',
> their quailty and service SUX!
>
> I'm not an
expert, but the quality of fiberglass and
> carbon fiber plays a big part
of the quality of the
> hood itself. I know there are cheap
Honda
> fiberglass/CF hoods that are thin and weak.. i wouldnt
> put
those kind of poor quality hoods on my TT..
>
> Robocar does have
some great deals on parts.. but
> please think twice before u let their
mechanics touch
> your car.. or put money down on some custom work
that
> u have not seen before/yet..
>
> Anyways.. didnt mean
to spoil ur lil group buy.. just
> dont wana see fellow members here get
burnt~
>
> /George
>
> --- smii <
smii@mediaone.net> wrote:
> >
Hello everybody,
>
>
I just wanted to let everybody know
> > that I got in
> >
contact with ROBOCAR, and they
> > said that if I could get a group
order of a minimum
> > of 20 hoods, they
> > would be able to
give a good
> > deal. the prices are as follows
> >
>
> fiberglass = $380.00
> >
> >
> > carbonfiber =
$600.00
> >
> > Remeber that this would allow us to fit a
strut
> > tower bar under our
> > hoods, as well as
provide
> > cooler air in the engine compartment. I would like
>
> to know what kind of
> > design ideas we are
> > looking
at, so please feel free to e-mail me
> > privately with your
>
> suggestions, as we all have to agree
> > on the design that is
going to be manufactured.
> >
> > All interested in getting in
on this deal please
> > e-mail me at
> >
smii@mediaone.net> >
> >
Thanks again.
> > Boris.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> >
> > *** Info:
> >
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
> __________________________________________________
>
Do You Yahoo!?
> Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
>
http://invites.yahoo.com/>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 07:56:24
PDT
From: "Ryan Meador" <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine timing retarding...
Gentlemen,
I just purchased a '93
vr4 and have some not so quick questions.
1) I read my current engine codes
to be 12, 13, and 25. What do those
mean?
2) I reset the
codes and ran the car- then checked them again. They
have not
come back (yet) BUT I am having a serious problem with the
power
of the car. I'm pegging the boost guage past 14 and don't
think
that stock boost should be 14 lbs. (Then again- I don't know
the
history of the used car) What should stock boost be? (no mods
except K&N)
3) When passing 9 lbs. it feels like the engine timing is
retarding
and I lose major power. Heck, my old '87 Supra Turbo
feels faster
right now. It is almost a "stumbling" feeling- and
the boost
pulling stops (although the boost meter is still
pumping hard.)
Any ideas?
4) It seems like the accuator on
the turbos can be manually adjusted
by screwing in the connector
on the end of the rod--- can I tone
down the boost that way
until obtaining a free flow exhaust? And-
do both turbos have to
be at exactly the same setting? Any help
would be GREATLY
appreciated- even bad news. I can't hardly
stand having a car
that should have 320 ponies but won't go fast at
all if I press
the gas past 1/2 way to the floor. Thanks- looking
forward to
being on the list.
- -Ryan *1993 Green VR-4 with NO vehicle
history...
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 10:11:37
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine timing retarding...
First off - some common knowledge
about the turbo boost gauge. On a '93
VR-4 you will never get more than
9 or 10 lbs. of boost at the factory
setting. The boost gauge lies to
you - it is not a true boost gauge, rather
an estimation that varies with
engine RPM, MAF signal, etc.etc.
Secondly - your '93 VR-4 has ~only~ 300
hp stock.
Third - your timing retard problem actually sounds more like
its time to
replace the spark plugs and wires. Go wth some OEM spark
plug wires, and
some NGK sparkplugs gapped around .032-.036 depending on what
kind of mods
you intend in the near future.
-
-Cody
#Gentlemen,
#I just purchased a '93 vr4 and have some not so
quick questions.
#1) I read my current engine codes to be 12, 13, and 25.
What do those
# mean?
#2) I reset the codes and ran the car-
then checked them again. They
# have not come back (yet) BUT I am
having a serious problem with the
# power of the car. I'm pegging
the boost guage past 14 and don't
# think that stock boost should
be 14 lbs. (Then again- I don't know
# the history of the used
car) What should stock boost be? (no mods
# except
K&N)
#3) When passing 9 lbs. it feels like the engine timing is
retarding
# and I lose major power. Heck, my old '87 Supra Turbo
feels faster
# right now. It is almost a "stumbling" feeling- and
the boost
# pulling stops (although the boost meter is still
pumping hard.)
# Any ideas?
#4) It seems like the accuator on
the turbos can be manually adjusted
# by screwing in the
connector on the end of the rod--- can I tone
# down the boost
that way until obtaining a free flow exhaust? And-
# do both
turbos have to be at exactly the same setting? Any help
# would
be GREATLY appreciated- even bad news. I can't hardly
# stand
having a car that should have 320 ponies but won't go fast at
#
all if I press the gas past 1/2 way to the floor. Thanks-
looking
# forward to being on the list.
#
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 08:53:02
-0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine timing retarding...
This sounds too wierd... I bought
a 93 Green VR-4 used recently too :) And
i had a few of these same problems.
Mine has been having SERIOUS power
issues but I think ive finally found the
cause. On mine, when you puill on
the throttle cable, you can hear an air
leak at the Y pipe. .And have had
that pipe blow off a few times. Also, my
stock boost guage also pegged
14psi even though my aftermarket guage never
gets above 7psi (also related
to the Y pipe i believe). If I were you, I
wouldnt mod your car for a
while (6 mo-> a year) and make sure its running
OK. Im at 9 months and i
only have an exhaust because I want to take it
slow.. we'll se how it runs
in 3 months or so.. if its still strong, then
i'll start modding it.
On Wed, 5 Jul 2000, Ryan Meador
wrote:
> Gentlemen,
> I just purchased a '93 vr4 and have some
not so quick questions.
> 1) I read my current engine codes to be 12, 13,
and 25. What do those
> mean?
> 2) I reset the
codes and ran the car- then checked them again. They
>
have not come back (yet) BUT I am having a serious problem with
the
> power of the car. I'm pegging the boost guage past
14 and don't
> think that stock boost should be 14 lbs.
(Then again- I don't know
> the history of the used car)
What should stock boost be? (no mods
> except
K&N)
> 3) When passing 9 lbs. it feels like the engine timing is
retarding
> and I lose major power. Heck, my old '87
Supra Turbo feels faster
> right now. It is almost a
"stumbling" feeling- and the boost
> pulling stops
(although the boost meter is still pumping hard.)
> Any
ideas?
> 4) It seems like the accuator on the turbos can be manually
adjusted
> by screwing in the connector on the end of
the rod--- can I tone
> down the boost that way until
obtaining a free flow exhaust? And-
> do both turbos
have to be at exactly the same setting? Any help
> would
be GREATLY appreciated- even bad news. I can't hardly
>
stand having a car that should have 320 ponies but won't go fast
at
> all if I press the gas past 1/2 way to the floor.
Thanks- looking
> forward to being on the list.
>
-Ryan *1993 Green VR-4 with NO vehicle history...
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
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>
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***
>
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 08:45:47
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine timing retarding...
> I just purchased a '93 vr4 and
have some not so quick questions.
> 1) I read my current engine codes to
be 12, 13, and 25. What do those
> mean?
All
airflow related stuff - maybe someone forgot to reconnect the MAS at
some
point and then reconnected it when it didn't idle right?
12 - Volume Air
Flow Sensor
13 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor
25 - Barometric Pressure
Sensor
These codes are all retained in memory until the ECM is reset or
the battery
disconnected (this resets the ECM in 10 seconds). The
manual says to check
the harness and connectors for all 3 sensors and
indicates that the first
two can be replaced if you get the error codes after
rechecking the
harnesses.
HTH,
- --Erik
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 11:52:06
-0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Installing/Removing tranny techniques
Look at Bob Fontana's webpage, it
has pictures of removal/installation of
the engine/transmission
assembly.
http://www.gate.net/~mitsvr4/Matt
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 09:16:15
PDT
From: "Ryan Meador" <
captainrye@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine timing retarding...
That's exactly what I needed.
Here's a new symptom for you experts- The car
does not have the problem when
first started and COLD but worsens as it
heats up. I'm crossing my fingers
for a sensor error... (PLEASE continue to
send feedback of other possible
problems!) Thanks again guys. -Ryan
> I just purchased a
'93 vr4 and have some not so quick questions.
> 1) I read my current
engine codes to be 12, 13, and 25. What do those
>
mean?
All airflow related stuff - maybe someone forgot to reconnect the
MAS at
some point and then reconnected it when it didn't idle
right?
12 - Volume Air Flow Sensor
13 - Intake Air Temperature
Sensor
25 - Barometric Pressure
Sensor
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 10:06:49
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: S-AVC-R reading O2 sensors voltage !?
I think this wire is
necessary for learn mode. I believe one of the
requirements that must
be met for the Apexi to go into learn mode is that the
TPS signal be above
85% (whatever voltage that equates to) see
http://www.huntleyracing.com/engineproductswhole.htm.
I think this info used to
be on the Apexi USA web site but I couldn't find it
recently.
> Guys, I was installing an S-AVC-R (Apexi boost
controller, new type) in a
> customers car tdy and during attaching the
TPS wire I thought about why the
> thing needs it. Well, of course I
haven't found anything in the manual and
> during the setup I checked the
sensor levels. Here I noticed that the
> voltage shows down to millivolts
what means a voltage between 0.00 and 1.02
> volts can be
displayed.
>
> In my point of view, I just can't see why the thing
needs the TPS wire ...
> maybe because the japanese engineers like to know
how lead the foot is ...
> dunno. But I really like the idea to connect
the input to one of the O2
> sensors. We need to see a voltage of 0.88 to
0.96V at WOT and the display
> with it's recording capabilities as well
the replay function would be
> perfect for analyzing the stuff without a
datalogger.
>
> I'm sure I'm not the first one who thinks about
this ! Therefore, I wonder
> if anyone already did this and what the
experiences are. Hey, no light show
> with 10 colored LED's, no hard to
read gauges, no guessing anymore (0.1 V
> between the LEDS is just not
perfect !!)
>
> Another note while at the S-AVC-R topic : Is it
true the peak values are
> lost when power is gone on the thing ? If so,
why did the engineers only
> think to the tip of the nose ? The A/B/etc
seetings are also stored so
> what's the problem ?
>
> Happy
boosting
> Roger (virusless !!)
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 10:45:33
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine timing retarding...
Welcome Ryan,
If you are
overboosting, you will get this stumbling symptom if your spark plugs
are
gapped to stock (0.044 ??) spec. Most folks gap their plugs
from
0.032-0.035 when running higher than stock boost.
Many times,
folks will sell their cars because of this simple problem.
Overboosting can
occur as hoses develop leaks, become loose, or just
become
disconnected. When I bought my car, the plastic hose barb on the
Boost Control
Solenoid Valve was broken and I experienced the symptom you
described.
The easiest and cheapest place to begin your diagnosis
is with the vacuum lines
and hoses. You need to check the condition of
the vacuum lines from hose barb
on the back of the Y-Pipe (near the throttle
body), to the boost control
solenoid on the firewall, to the 4-way "H"
connector, to the wastegate
actuators. You (or a mechanic) can check
for leaks using a small hand pump to
pump the hoses to +8 psi to determine if
there are any leaks. You can check
that the actuators actually move
too. Also check the Y-Pipe hose to the
throttle body, and finally check
all hoses from the turbos to the intercoolers
to the Y-pipe, clamps
frequently become loose. If these are all OK, we'll give
you more ideas
to help find your problem.
Good luck,
Ken
>
Gentlemen,
> I just purchased a '93 vr4 and have some not so quick
questions.
> 1) I read my current engine codes to be 12, 13, and 25. What
do those
> mean?
> 2) I reset the codes and ran
the car- then checked them again. They
> have not come
back (yet) BUT I am having a serious problem with the
>
power of the car. I'm pegging the boost guage past 14 and
don't
> think that stock boost should be 14 lbs. (Then
again- I don't know
> the history of the used car) What
should stock boost be? (no mods
> except
K&N)
> 3) When passing 9 lbs. it feels like the engine timing is
retarding
> and I lose major power. Heck, my old '87
Supra Turbo feels faster
> right now. It is almost a
"stumbling" feeling- and the boost
> pulling stops
(although the boost meter is still pumping hard.)
> Any
ideas?
> 4) It seems like the accuator on the turbos can be manually
adjusted
> by screwing in the connector on the end of
the rod--- can I tone
> down the boost that way until
obtaining a free flow exhaust? And-
> do both turbos
have to be at exactly the same setting? Any help
> would
be GREATLY appreciated- even bad news. I can't hardly
>
stand having a car that should have 320 ponies but won't go fast
at
> all if I press the gas past 1/2 way to the floor.
Thanks- looking
> forward to being on the
list.
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:15:39
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Noise Update (was Re: tire rubbing on shock)
It's the wheel bearing, I
did the same thing last winter, hit ice and very
slowly slid over and hit the
curb, ended up bending the edge of the rim.
Anyway, it put a real small
dimple in the bearing housing and it did the
exact same thing, clicking
sound. It was just enough to drive you crazy,
and yes once you took off
the weight you couldn't find it.
99% sure anyway, and it's fairly easy
thing to fix.
Oh, mark about three places on the cam bolt and
mounting plate, the cam
bolt is used for the alignment, hopefully you won't
have to get it realigned
once you remove the strut bolts to fix your
problem.
Good luck,
Dave Best
3Si #62
http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
To: <
matthews@bnro.de>
Cc: Team 3S
International <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 04, 2000 11:40 AM
Subject: Team3S: Noise Update (was Re: tire
rubbing on shock)
> Hello Jim,
> My brother has the same
identical problem on his 94 TT. When making left
> turns. It
is mostly evident on the highway, not during lane changes, but
> even easy
highway turns. It started after my brother had a small fender
>
bender ( more accurately tirebender because the rest of the car was
fine)
> last winter that required a new front right wheel, a tie rod, and
I dont
> remember what other parts. The mechanic did a 4 wheel
alignment and the
> noise just kind of crept up un him. I was the
first to notice, as I drive
> with the radio lower than he does and I pay
more attention to the car. I
> will take the car back to the
mechanic as soon as I finish his 60K tuneup
> to see what he thinks and
will keep you posted on what I resolve.
>
> Mike,
> 94 Pearl
Yellow TT
> Detroit Metro Area,
Michigan
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 23:48:02
+0200
From: Mike Chapleski <
mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel line replacement
Has anyone replaced
their fuel lines from the fuel filter, through
the fuel rails and then back
to the return line with steel braided lines
and AN-type connectors? I
just installed a fuel pressure gauge in my
dash and am trying to figure out
where I am going to insert the pressure
sensor in the system. I just
bought two new fuel rails and figured I
would tap them and install steel
braided lines. This looks straight
forward except for the stock fuel
pressure regulator. I cannot figure
out how to keep this in the
system. So my next question is what does
this do anyway? I am
still running stock turbos and fuel. Just want to
take care of this
now.
Mike Chapleski
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 23:48:11
+0200
From: Mike Chapleski <
mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
I am
getting ready to replace my clutch master cylinder and was
looking in the
service manual. It says I need to remove the brake
booster to get the
clutch cylinder out. After looking under the hood I
think they are
correct. So has anyone done this? Will it be possible
for me to
unbolt the brake booster and move it out of the way without
removing the
hydraulic lines. I just bleed my brakes with Super Blue
and do not want
to go through another quart+ of that stuff.
Mike Chapleski
0018
'95
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 00:53:52
+0200
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire Help!!!
>>So you're
missing the BEST part of the car....This is WHERE the 3-S is
>>clearly
superior
- ---
>>Are you kidding?
No, I'm
not
>>Talk about having a SUV mentality
here...
Beaurkkkkkkkkkk
Even if we have a 4WD Voyager...I do NOT like
to drive trucks !!
>>Stopping a 4000+lb -car- in snow and ice is
not a pleasurable experience
when
>>you have to do it in a
hurry..
Get rid of the ABS
Get good snow tires....and you're all
set
And....why slow down....when you've got the possibility to accelerate
and
dynamically avoid the obstacle ;-)
>>I dont care what you
say *grin*.
I say nothing ;-)
>>Rain/snow/ice only serve to
greatly magnify our car's one great
problem..weight.
Naah....We're
losing serious HP through the AWD...actually, limited traction
conditions are
where the 3S
is at its peak potential....
Henri
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 16:02:08
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: S-AVC-R reading O2 sensors voltage !?
This is a good idea
Trent, which is why I'm responding to the list.
You could periodically
disable learn mode for all gears and switch over to
monitor O2 or another
voltage of choice (this is essentially what I do with the
RPM/IDC wire, I
leave on RPM normally, occasionally I switch to IDC).
Normally,
you want learning enabled and the TPS wired in
correctly. This is because the
AVC will continually go into learn mode
(when "requirements" are met) in order
to "maintain" boost curve. This
is how it accomodates atmospheric changes,
elevation changes, etc.
Trent Owens wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Is it
necessary once the AVC has already "learned" the boost curve? If it
doesnt,
> then a simple switch would work.....
>
>
Trent
>
> Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > I think this
wire is necessary for learn mode. I believe one of the
> >
requirements that must be met for the Apexi to go into learn mode is that
the
> > TPS signal be above 85% (whatever voltage that equates to)
see
> >
http://www.huntleyracing.com/engineproductswhole.htm.
I think this info used to
> > be on the Apexi USA web site but I
couldn't find it recently.
> >
> > > Guys, I was installing
an S-AVC-R (Apexi boost controller, new type) in a
> > > customers
car tdy and during attaching the TPS wire I thought about why the
> >
> thing needs it. Well, of course I haven't found anything in the manual
and
> > > during the setup I checked the sensor levels. Here I
noticed that the
> > > voltage shows down to millivolts what means a
voltage between 0.00 and 1.02
> > > volts can be displayed.
>
> >
> > > In my point of view, I just can't see why the thing
needs the TPS wire ...
> > > maybe because the japanese engineers
like to know how lead the foot is ...
> > > dunno. But I really like
the idea to connect the input to one of the O2
> > > sensors. We
need to see a voltage of 0.88 to 0.96V at WOT and the display
> > >
with it's recording capabilities as well the replay function would be
>
> > perfect for analyzing the stuff without a datalogger.
> >
>
> > > I'm sure I'm not the first one who thinks about this !
Therefore, I wonder
> > > if anyone already did this and what the
experiences are. Hey, no light show
> > > with 10 colored LED's, no
hard to read gauges, no guessing anymore (0.1 V
> > > between the
LEDS is just not perfect !!)
> > >
> > > Another note
while at the S-AVC-R topic : Is it true the peak values are
> > >
lost when power is gone on the thing ? If so, why did the engineers only
>
> > think to the tip of the nose ? The A/B/etc seetings are also stored
so
> > > what's the problem ?
> > >
> > >
Happy boosting
> > > Roger (virusless !!)
> > >
93'3000GT TT
> > >
www.rtec.ch> > >
> > >
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
> >
> > --
> > Forget world peace -- visualize
using your turn signal!
> >
> > Ken
Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> > General Atomics
> > San Diego
>
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
> __________________________________________________
>
Do You Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo!
Messenger.
>
http://im.yahoo.com- --
Forget world
peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 16:45:56
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel line replacement
Mike,
I installed my Autometer
fuel pressure sensor in the fuel line after the
filter. Some pics and other
info can be found at the url below.
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-fp_install.htmYou
cannot eliminate the stock FPR without replacing it with another. The
FPR
increases fuel pressure (by restricting return flow) to match the
increased
manifold pressure under boost. In turbo models, the fuel
pressure solenoid
also reduces FP at idle using the FPR. If you convert
the ends of your new
fuel rails to AN fittings, then there is a multitude
of aftermarket options
available, but you will also have to adapt the high
pressure supply line and
the return line. You can increase FP beyond the
factory specs (to increase
injector flow) by installing another FPR after
the factory in the fuel return
line. However, unless you plan on flowing a
LOT more fuel (like 720s maxed
out, which is more fuel than 15Gs can
supply air for) then the stock lines,
rails, and FPR are adequate. Please,
let us know what you do to the rails as
this may be a mod I might
consider.
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT
- modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/3000GT/Stealth
Manuals on CD
-->
http://www.manualcd.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Mike Chapleski" <
mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
To:
"Team 3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 05, 2000 3:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: Fuel line
replacement
> Has anyone replaced their
fuel lines from the fuel filter, through
> the fuel rails and then back to
the return line with steel braided lines
> and AN-type connectors? I
just installed a fuel pressure gauge in my
> dash and am trying to figure
out where I am going to insert the pressure
> sensor in the system.
I just bought two new fuel rails and figured I
> would tap them and
install steel braided lines. This looks straight
> forward except
for the stock fuel pressure regulator. I cannot figure
> out how to
keep this in the system. So my next question is what does
> this do
anyway? I am still running stock turbos and fuel. Just want
to
> take care of this now.
>
> Mike Chapleski
>
0018
> '95 Stealth RT
TT
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:08:21
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Help!!!
Get rid of the ABS
Get good snow tires....and
you're all set
And....why slow down....when you've got the possibility to
accelerate and
dynamically avoid the obstacle ;-)
>>I dont care
what you say *grin*.
I say nothing ;-)
>>Rain/snow/ice only
serve to greatly magnify our car's one
great
problem..weight.
Naah....We're losing serious HP through the
AWD...actually, limited traction
conditions are where the 3S
is at its
peak potential....
- ---
Wellllll...ok.
To each thier
own.
I dont recall any literature praising an AWD/TT sports car..as a
tool for winter
travel tho.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 5 Jul 2000 17:22:09
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1st Gen stock turbo boost increase
It hase been mentioned on this
list that the 91-92?,93? twin turbos are restricted to 9Lbs of Boost but
the 93?, 94? and up models have 12 Lbs of boost available.
Is there a
way to increase the boost on a 91 to 12 Psi using stock parts is this too
expensive. I am lukewarm on the idea of adding a bleeder valve and I am
not financially ready to buy a god boost controller.
John Monnin
91
VR-4 (hope to be back together soon)
jkmonnin@altavista.com_______________________________________________________________________
$1
million in prizes! 20 daily instant winners.
AltaVista Rewards: Click here
to win!
http://shopping.altavista.com/e.sdc?e=3_______________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:22:29
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: 1st Gen stock turbo boost increase
AFAIK, thats the only change,
a modification in how the stock boost control
system works.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: John Monnin [
mailto:jkmonnin@altavista.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 05, 2000 5:22 PM
To:
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 1st Gen stock turbo boost increase
It hase been mentioned on
this list that the 91-92?,93? twin turbos are
restricted to 9Lbs of
Boost but the 93?, 94? and up models have 12 Lbs of boost
available.
Is there a way to increase the boost on a 91 to 12 Psi using stock parts is
this
too expensive. I am lukewarm on the idea of adding a bleeder valve
and I am not
financially ready to buy a god boost controller.
John
Monnin
91 VR-4 (hope to be back together soon)
jkmonnin@altavista.com_______________________________________________________________________
$1
million in prizes! 20 daily instant winners.
AltaVista Rewards: Click here
to win!
http://shopping.altavista.com/e.sdc?e=3_______________________________________________________________________
***
Info:
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***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:33:02
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 1st Gen stock turbo boost increase
> It hase been mentioned on
this list that the 91-92?,93? twin turbos are
> restricted to 9Lbs
of Boost but the 93?, 94? and up models have 12 Lbs of
> boost
available.
> Is there a way to increase the boost on a 91 to 12
Psi using stock parts
> is this too expensive. I am lukewarm on the
idea of adding a bleeder
> valve and I am not financially ready to buy a
god boost controller.
Actually, there's a free way to do it. Inside
the nipple on the boost
control solenoid is a small plastic insert that you
can pull out with a
small drill bit or something similar and that'll get you
to the
second-generation boost levels. Doing it this way will preserve
complete
stock-looking appearance and reliability as the ECU still has full
control
of the boost level if severe knock is detected.
Behind the
Y-pipe and throttle body is a rats-nest of hoses. There is
a
white/yellow plastic "H" connector. One of the hoses attached to
there goes
up to one of the solenoids on the firewall. That solenoid is
the boost
control solenoid. I don't recall which one of the nipples the
insert is in
(I believe it is the bottom one). Look to see which one
has a smaller hole
and that should be the one. Look closer and you'll
see the seam between the
insert and the wall of the solenoid. Get a
drill bit that is just a little
bit smaller than the opening and chuck it in
a drill. With the drill
spinning, insert it into the hole and slightly
angle the bit so that it
grabs the insert and starts spinning the
insert. Pull out the bit with the
insert attached. Put the hose
back on, and you are done.
Did it on my roommate's '91 VR4, no problems
and a little more boost and
slightly better spoolup of the turbos.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:37:39
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Help!!!
> Wellllll...ok.
> To each thier
own.
> I dont recall any literature praising an AWD/TT sports car..as a
tool
> for winter travel tho.
I don't drive my Spyder in the winter
as it is too nice a car to let the
salt rust away, but I did drive my
previous '94 VR4 in winter. If you get
good snow tires, it is an
excellent winter vehicle and I felt much safer
driving it than any "normal"
car. I have to disagree with disconnecting the
ABS though, since if you
have great tires they should grip plenty to get the
car stopped without a
problem. I don't care what "experts" say about ABS
and winter driving -
when people get in a sticky situation they slam the
brakes HARD and hold them
on and don't even steer which is the worst thing
possible to do. Even
experienced drivers do it on occasion even though they
know better.
I'll take the backup safety of ABS any day.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#187
*********************