team3s
Wednesday, July 5
2000
Volume 01 : Number
186
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:40:55 -0400 (EDT)
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S: Noise
Update (was Re: tire rubbing on shock)
Hello Jim,
My brother has the
same identical problem on his 94 TT. When making left
turns. It
is mostly evident on the highway, not during lane changes, but
even easy
highway turns. It started after my brother had a small fender
bender (
more accurately tirebender because the rest of the car was fine)
last winter
that required a new front right wheel, a tie rod, and I dont
remember what
other parts. The mechanic did a 4 wheel alignment and the
noise just
kind of crept up un him. I was the first to notice, as I drive
with the
radio lower than he does and I pay more attention to the car. I
will
take the car back to the mechanic as soon as I finish his 60K tuneup
to see
what he thinks and will keep you posted on what I resolve.
Mike,
94
Pearl Yellow TT
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:42:46
-0400 (EDT)
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: RE: Team3S:
Redline Thanks
Helo Matt,
You are right, the transmission requires
75W-90. Redline MT-90 is that
exact weight. On the other hand,
Redline MTL is 75W-80. From what I have
seen, MTL allows for smoother
shifting. The problem with my brothers TT
is that initially it shifts
really hard in gears, however, after 1-2 miles
it becomes nice and
easy. Initially I cant put his car in third gear
without grinding the
synchro/gear. Anyway, from the people that I got
feedback from about +
used MTL in tranny and + used MT-90. This decision
could have easily
gone towards putting MT-90 in the tranny. Next year Ill
switch to that
just to see the difference. For the winter (since I live
in Michigan),
I think having a thinner oil will help with the
initial
shifting.
Thanks for your concern.
Mike.
94 Pearl
Yellow TT
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Redline Thanks
Doesn't the tranny spec call for 75/90 weight
oil? That would be MT-90.
Is there a benefit to running MTL? I've
got BG Syncroshift in the car
now, and it is okay but I'd like to try MT-90
if it works better.
- - -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 17:02:40
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Is it possible to convert'93 frontend to 94+ front?
I'm
interested in converting from my '93 front to the later front end.
Is this
possible/easy and if so what sort of money is needed to do it?
What parts
need to be replaced and is there any working to be done to
get it all to fit
or is it just a bolt off/bolt on affair.
I would get the carbon hood for
a start but what else would I need.
Thanks for any
info
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 15:29:57
+0200
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire
Help!!!
>>>First, I have NEVER slid my
VR4
>>Ahem....you should try do drive it on snow
;-)
>
>>>>I don't drive it in the winter.
So
you're missing the BEST part of the car....This is WHERE the 3-S is
clearly
superior
>>Still, our cars have a superior suspension and balance.
We can do things
>>that would put a 911 into the weeds.
911 :
beaurk !!!
>>Nah...The more I think about it, it seems that Darren
has been
dive-bombing
>>corners and early apexing. It's about the
only thing that makes sense.
Could be
>
>If ONLY we had
X-Crossing in Europe.....that would certainly be fun !!!
>>You have
hillclimbs.
AND......alpine roads, and no speed limit on the german
autobahn....but it's
certainly a LOT MORE dangerous
than
X-Crossing.....but we do have F1 tracks around ;-)
>>Henri, don't
scare him off. We'll get him into some new pads and
fluid,
and
>>just leave it there for the moment. We want him to come
back.
;-)
Zee you
Henri
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 09:37:52
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire pressures
> All of this sounds really interesting. I
was told at a tire shop recently
> that I should under inflate my tires if
I want more traction. That
- ---
Straight line..yes.
Cornering..not always.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:30:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Is it possible to convert'93 frontend to 94+ front?
Hi
Gordon,
George Kuo has done this. Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/amkreadgto/Hybrid.htmlJeff
Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Tyrrell" <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Cc:
"Team 3S International" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 04, 2000 10:02 AM
Subject: Team3S: Is it possible to convert'93
frontend to 94+ front?
> I'm interested in converting from my '93
front to the later front
end.
> Is this possible/easy and if so what
sort of money is needed to do
it?
>
> What parts need to be
replaced and is there any working to be done
to
> get it all to fit or
is it just a bolt off/bolt on affair.
>
> I would get the carbon
hood for a start but what else would I need.
>
> Thanks for any
info
> Gordon
> Dublin, Ireland
> 1993 Japanese Import
VR4
>
http://fly.to/mr2.ie__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 12:40:26
-0700
From: "Veilside GTO" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Overboost Problem Solved
Thanks Errin for posting the
update.
Regardless of who helped me fix the problem, the matter has been
solved.
Now, I am not overboosting anymore. That is a great feeling indeed.
Thanks
to all on this list who have replied. I am indeed grateful to be a
member on
both the Starnet and Team 3S list.
Now, I can tune my car
without the fear of blowing an engine! :) My worry is
whether I have done any
major damage running in that previous condition for
some time....damage to my
engine.
Well, Happy 4th of July to all!
Best,
Julian
Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle,
Washington
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Errin Humphrey [
mailto:errin@u.washington.edu]
Sent:
Saturday, July 01, 2000 9:04 PM
To: Team3S; Starnet
Subject: Overboost
Problem Solved
Just an update . . .
Julian's recently reported
overboost problem
of 1.5-1.8 bars of boost on stock turbos was
recently
fixed by yours truly. <smirk>
A bunch of things contributed
to the problem.
It did indeed turn out to be related to the
wastegate
actuator hoses. One of the hoses
to the H-connector was leaking air
(because
it was too big), one of the hoses from the
H-connector to the
stock actuator was not
sufficiently plugged up and thus leaking air,
and
(worst of all) the Y-pipe nipple (which
provides boost to activate the
wastegates)
was completely plugged up (mostly by the
recent ceramic
coating of the Y-pipe).
Once these things were straightened out,
the
overboost problem completely went away.
So I was wrong in my guess
that it was (at
least partially) caused by an over-rich,
retarded timing
condition. :) That idea had
already started to seem pretty
unlikely to me
anyway given the distance between the engine
exhaust ports
and the turbo. Occam's Razor
comes through once again.
:)
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 15:44:20
EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Best Plug Wires
Hey everyone, something this week or possibly
next week, I will be helping a
friend change spark plugs. My friend's wires
are pretty old and I suggested
that we go ahead and change those while we
are doing the plugs - I also
realized that I forgot to change my wires last
time I changed my plugs.
So I decided, I would order a set of performance
wires for my friends car,
and probably a set for mine as well. Anyone here
know what are the best
performance wires out there? I've seen a couple of
sets of wires that looked
good, but I wasn't sure if they woud interfere
with my ECU or not, so someone
help me out here.
P.S. The wires are
for NA DOHC engines.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 18:01:48
-0400
From: "Michael" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire pressures
Actually, I've got SP8000's (255/35R18) also
and the front tires are wearing
on the sides. I'm up to 50lbs and
they're to be rolling, while the back
ones are fine. I do corner hard
and at speed. My only guess is that the
tire isn't wide enough for my
18x9 rims. I'm planning on going to the
275/35R18 SP8080E's on the
front next, and see how those react.
Michael
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 9:54
To: Matt Wise; Bob
Forrest
Cc: Team3S; Jeff
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire pressures
At
06:37 AM 7/4/00 -0700, Matt Wise wrote:
>All of this sounds really
interesting. I was told at a tire shop recently
>that I should under
inflate my tires if I want more traction.
Maybe for drag racing.
Certainly not on the street.
That
>somewhat makes sense because the
tire will mold to the road a bit better
>w/o as much air in it
No.
With too-low pressure, the tire will roll under on hard corners. You
need
enough air pressure to (a) keep the sidewalls from folding and (b) to
keep
the tread flat to the road for maximum tire patch.
If over-inflated, only
the center of the tire patch will be working ( \/ );
if under inflated, only
the edges of the tire patch will be working ( /\ ) .
You want the entire
patch to work.
(at least that makes sense in my head... which
is
>usually pretty screwed up). So your telling us that we need to
inflate
>them..
Yep. At the least, go with the recommended tire
pressures.
I have noticed that I have completeliy worn down the sides
and
>corners of my new (8000miles) SP80000's and have been
severely
>dissapointed with their traction.
Yep. Severely
underinflated, sounds like.
Rich
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 17:22:17
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire pressures
At 06:01 PM 7/4/00 -0400, Michael
wrote:
>Actually, I've got SP8000's (255/35R18) also and the front tires
are wearing
>on the sides. I'm up to 50lbs and they're to be
rolling, while the back
>ones are fine. I do corner hard and at
speed. My only guess is that the
>tire isn't wide enough for my 18x9
rims. I'm planning on going to the
>275/35R18 SP8080E's on the front
next, and see how those react.
>
You might have an alignment problem.
If you have positive camber or too
much toe in, the tires will wear on
the outside. I have the opposite
problem: so much negative camber that my
tires wear on the insides.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 17:54:34
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need help locating access through firewall
I have taken the
battery out of my 95 VR-4 to locate the grommet that is
supposed to allow
access to the inside of the car. However, upon removal,
all I can see
is the fuel filter at the bottom, a line that looks like the
feed to the
heater core at the top, and a bunch of hydraulic lines against
the
firewall. Where would this grommet be? I want to put my MSD unit
and
adaptors in the trunk (next to the spare tire) because my engine
compartment
has enough junk in it.
Thanks for your
help!
Sam
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 19:40:03
-0400
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
best prices for high rise hoods for our cars.
Hello
everybody,
I just wanted to let everybody know that I got in
contact with ROBOCAR, and
they
said that if I could get a group order of a minimum of 20 hoods,
they
would be able to give a good
deal. the prices are as
follows
fiberglass =
$380.00
carbonfiber = $600.00
Remeber that this would allow us to fit a strut
tower bar under our
hoods, as well as provide
cooler air in the engine
compartment. I would like to know what kind of
design ideas we are
looking
at, so please feel free to e-mail me privately with your
suggestions, as we
all have to agree
on the design that is going to be manufactured.
All
interested in getting in on this deal please e-mail me at
smii@mediaone.netThanks
again.
Boris.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 17:09:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: best prices for high rise hoods for our cars.
I would NOT
recommend any custom work done at ROBOCAR.
From previous personal
experience and of my friends',
their quailty and service SUX!
I'm not
an expert, but the quality of fiberglass and
carbon fiber plays a big part of
the quality of the
hood itself. I know there are cheap
Honda
fiberglass/CF hoods that are thin and weak.. i wouldnt
put those
kind of poor quality hoods on my TT..
Robocar does have some great deals
on parts.. but
please think twice before u let their mechanics touch
your
car.. or put money down on some custom work that
u have not seen
before/yet..
Anyways.. didnt mean to spoil ur lil group buy..
just
dont wana see fellow members here get burnt~
/George
-
--- smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
wrote:
> Hello
everybody,
>
I just wanted to let everybody know
> that I got in
> contact with
ROBOCAR, and they
> said that if I could get a group order of a
minimum
> of 20 hoods, they
> would be able to give a good
>
deal. the prices are as
follows
>
> fiberglass = $380.00
>
>
> carbonfiber = $600.00
>
> Remeber that this would allow us
to fit a strut
> tower bar under our
> hoods, as well as
provide
> cooler air in the engine compartment. I would like
> to
know what kind of
> design ideas we are
> looking at, so please feel
free to e-mail me
> privately with your
> suggestions, as we all
have to agree
> on the design that is going to be manufactured.
>
> All interested in getting in on this deal please
> e-mail me
at
>
smii@mediaone.net>
> Thanks again.
> Boris.
>
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:16:40
-0400
From: Denny Maderi <
dmaderi@iname.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Scan tools
I have a 93 Dodge Stealth ES. I am having intermittent
problems with the
Check Engine light coming on. I did try getting the fault
codes out and
was unable to get anything other than a "normal state" reading.
I am
looking into buying a scan tool, hoping that this would better help
me
in finding the issue that I am having (It also has the capabilities
of
collecting data while you drive). If anyone uses a scan tool and has
any
good luck with one particular one (That's in the 4 to 5 hundred
dollar
range) Please let me know!!
Kindly appreciated!!
-
-Deano
Syracuse, NY
93 Stealth ES
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 21:04:41
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Installing/Removing tranny techniques
Ok, I need to replace my clutch
before I raise my boost. I replaced my
engine myself but I had lots of
trouble removing and installing the tranny.
It took me and two other guys 4
hours of extreme hardship to get the tranny
back in position to bolt it back
onto the engine. I know there must be a
simplier method of doing this
procedure. I said I wouldn't do it myself
again and was glad to pay
mitsu the $1000 to do it but I feel that I could
do it again if I knew the
proper technique. I used a tranny jack and
regular jack last time, but
I was wondering if there was some other
contraption that might make this
easier. Also, it was hard to get the
tranny to fit between the engine
and frame, so I was wondering how to get
around that problem. Our
solution was to rotate the transmission a little
to get it in, but that was
VERY difficult and one of my friend's almost
broke his arm when we were doing
this. I know two other people that need
this done as well, so any
advice would be great.
Thanks again,
Chris
92 R/T TT (the new
engine and 355s are great, almost time to REALLY have fun
with
them...)
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:09:08
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Installing/Removing tranny techniques
I've put a tranny in
the car twice by myself. (6 speed) Yes it is very
difficult and
rotating the unit is the easiest way.
You might find a way to tie the
transmission up when you do the initial lift
so that you can take a break
when going in.
have found the easiest way is to just put it on your
chest and lift it in.
*However* if your friend almost broke an arm you might
not attempt this, as
it could be dangerous if you can't lift and sustain the
weight for 60-90
seconds.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Chris Maxwell
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 11:05 PM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Installing/Removing tranny techniques
Ok, I need to replace my
clutch before I raise my boost. I replaced my
engine myself but I had
lots of trouble removing and installing the tranny.
It took me and two other
guys 4 hours of extreme hardship to get the tranny
back in position to bolt
it back onto the engine. I know there must be a
simplier method of
doing this procedure. I said I wouldn't do it myself
again and was glad
to pay mitsu the $1000 to do it but I feel that I could
do it again if I knew
the proper technique. I used a tranny jack and
regular jack last time,
but I was wondering if there was some other
contraption that might make this
easier. Also, it was hard to get the
tranny to fit between the engine
and frame, so I was wondering how to get
around that problem. Our
solution was to rotate the transmission a little
to get it in, but that was
VERY difficult and one of my friend's almost
broke his arm when we were doing
this. I know two other people that need
this done as well, so any
advice would be great.
Thanks again,
Chris
92 R/T TT (the new
engine and 355s are great, almost time to REALLY have fun
with
them...)
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:23:46
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Installing/Removing tranny techniques
> I've put a tranny in
the car twice by myself. (6 speed) Yes it is very
> difficult and
rotating the unit is the easiest way.
Yup, rotating the whole thing about
15-20 degrees is about the only way (and
certainly the easiest way) to get
the tranny back in the car. Without
rotating it, you are causing way
more work than necessary.
> I have found the easiest way is to just
put it on your chest and lift it
in.
> *However* if your friend almost
broke an arm you might not attempt this,
as
> it could be dangerous if
you can't lift and sustain the weight for 60-90
> seconds.
I've
done it on my Eclipse GSX (the engine/tranny/frame setup is nearly
identical
underneath) by putting it on my legs and hoisting it up into
position by
flexing my knees up and guiding/steadying with my hands. I'm
not
super-strong, but it is very taxing on a person to say the least.
Here's
what I'd recommend as the safest and easiest way:
Get the front end of
the car jacked up as high as possible on jackstands
(maintaining safety, of
course) to get as much room as possible underneath.
Use a floor-jack with
pieces of 2x4 on top to gain additional height, and
adjust the jackstands
upwards. Get yourself and a friend under the car with
the tranny in
position and have your friend help lift it off the ground
enough to get under
it. Once you are under it, have a second friend grab
the tranny from
above to help take some of the weight off you and have the
first friend help
you rotate the tranny. Get it guided in, slide it onto
the round
locator studs and it should be home-free from there.
It is possible to do
it alone, but two people is safer and three should make
it fairly simple and
have the lowest possibility of someone getting hurt.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 11:12:41
+0100
From: Martin <
martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
Code checking
Hi All
I have noticed that some people have commented on
how they can get error
codes using a digital multivoltage meter, can this be
done and is there a
procedure somewhere on the net on this?
Sorry if this
has been covered before but i am quite new to the car and the
list.
Thanks in
advance.
Martin
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 12:48:02
+0100
From: Martin <
martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
Oil change
Hi All
As a newbie i am probably going to annoy everyone
here.
I am just going to do my first oil change on my 3000 GTO TT
I have
narrowed my choice down to Mobile1 or Redline for the engine.
Which one is
the preferred choice for most people, as i don't think there
is really a
much difference between the two, but more personal choice, all
feedback
welcome.
And is the OEM filter the best choice or is there something better
out there.
And my last question is my car is stock apart from a stainless
steel big
bore racing exhaust and i would like to start some mods soon and i
believe
a K&N air filter is the first thing to do, but is there
something else you
have to do at the same time or can i just replace the
original OEM filter
and thats it?
Thanks in advance
Martin
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 04:51:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Code checking
Hi Martin,
The manual recommends an
analog volt meter. I would suggest getting
the manuals on CD by Vineet. For
only $35 it covers all models, all
years, plus has the body and rebuild
manuals. An outrageous deal. See
url below.
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992
Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/3000GT/Stealth
Manuals on CD
-->
http://www.manualcd.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Martin" <
martin@star.co.uk>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 05, 2000 4:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: Code checking
>
Hi All
> I have noticed that some people have commented on how they can
get
error
> codes using a digital multivoltage meter, can this be done
and is
there a
> procedure somewhere on the net on this?
> Sorry
if this has been covered before but i am quite new to the car
and the
> list.
> Thanks in advance.
>
Martin
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 04:57:38
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Scan tools
The TMO datalogger ($300 plus you need a portable
PC) will work on
your car but I don't think it would report engine error
codes any
better than direct **analog** voltmeter query at the diagnostic
port.
For links to more info on the TMO, please check out the Links Page
at
my web site.
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Maderi" <
dmaderi@iname.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, July 04, 2000 9:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: Scan tools
> I have
a 93 Dodge Stealth ES. I am having intermittent problems
with the
>
Check Engine light coming on. I did try getting the fault codes
out
and
> was unable to get anything other than a "normal state"
reading. I
am
> looking into buying a scan tool, hoping that this would
better help
me
> in finding the issue that I am having (It also has the
capabilities
of
> collecting data while you drive). If anyone uses a
scan tool and
has any
> good luck with one particular one (That's in
the 4 to 5 hundred
dollar
> range) Please let me know!!
>
> Kindly appreciated!!
> -Deano
> Syracuse, NY
> 93
Stealth ES
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 05:22:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil change
Hi Martin,
FWIW, I use Mobil 1, but have
not developed any particular opinions on it.
I just think synthetic is
probably much better for our turbocharged
engines than "regular" oil. I also
use the OEM filter and crush ring,
available for "only" $5.80 (with our club
discount) from Tall. Mitsu. (url
on my site's Link Page). I started with the
K&N air filter that directly
replaces the stock one (~$50), but the FIPK
model (~$145) offers a real
decrease in restriction (replaces the stock
filter box). The FIPK will
also increase the amount of noise you hear from
the air intake and the
BOV. Eventually I abandoned the FIPK for the ARC2 MAS
and K&N giant cone
filter. Pics of FIPK (with stock air box and OEM
K&N) and ARC2 kit are
available at my web site with my "page locator".
The air filter is a good
place to start modding, then I would suggest that an
aftermarket boost
gauge and electronic boost controller (can be in the same
package) offer
the most bang for the buck. Just don't turn the boost up past
14-15 psi
with the stock fuel system and listen/look for detonation. My web
site,
and many others (see my giant Links Page), list other performance mods
and
maybe suggested order. Vineet's manuals on CD are invaluable for
working
on any year TT.
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/3000GT/Stealth
Manuals on CD
-->
http://www.manualcd.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Martin" <
martin@star.co.uk>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 05, 2000 5:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: Oil change
> Hi
All
> As a newbie i am probably going to annoy everyone here.
> I am
just going to do my first oil change on my 3000 GTO TT
> I have narrowed
my choice down to Mobile1 or Redline for the engine.
> Which one is the
preferred choice for most people, as i don't think
there
> is really a
much difference between the two, but more personal choice,
all
>
feedback welcome.
> And is the OEM filter the best choice or is there
something better out
there.
> And my last question is my car is stock
apart from a stainless steel big
> bore racing exhaust and i would
like to start some mods soon and i
believe
> a K&N air filter is
the first thing to do, but is there something else
you
> have to do at
the same time or can i just replace the original OEM
filter
> and
thats it?
> Thanks in advance
> Martin
__________________________________________________
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 06:06:16
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Help!!!
So you're missing the BEST part of the car....This
is WHERE the 3-S is
clearly superior
- ---
Are you
kidding?
Talk about having a SUV mentality here...
Stopping a
4000+lb -car- in snow and ice is not a pleasurable experience when
you have
to do it in a hurry..I dont care what you say *grin*.
Rain/snow/ice only
serve to greatly magnify our car's one great problem..weight.
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 06:09:17
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Tire pressures
Actually, I've got SP8000's (255/35R18) also and
the front tires are wearing
on the sides. I'm up to 50lbs and they're
to be rolling, while the back
ones are fine. I do corner hard and at
speed. My only guess is that the
tire isn't wide enough for my 18x9
rims. I'm planning on going to the
275/35R18 SP8080E's on the front
next, and see how those react.
- ---
255 for 9s is about right..almost
a perfect racing match.
Your problems cant be solved with air because of
a combination of alignment (not
enough neg camber) anr/or suspension (stock
suspension rolls so far..NO amount
of air can help..trust me)
Your
problem probly wont go away with a wider tire, as you'll have
a
softer/rounder sidewall. 10" wheels best match 275s for
performance.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 06:10:26
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: best prices for high rise hoods for our cars.
Photos? WWW
site?
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 06:55:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Help!!!
Why bother stoping it ? Just use the AWD and go
around obsticles :)
On Wed, 5 Jul 2000
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
wrote:
> So you're missing the BEST part of the car....This is WHERE
the 3-S is
> clearly superior
> ---
>
> Are you
kidding?
>
> Talk about having a SUV mentality here...
>
> Stopping a 4000+lb -car- in snow and ice is not a pleasurable
experience when
> you have to do it in a hurry..I dont care what you say
*grin*.
>
> Rain/snow/ice only serve to greatly magnify our car's
one great problem..weight.
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 06:50:27
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Help!!!
Lets be reasonable..ok?
- -I- know youre
joking, but others may not..I dont care -what- you think you can
do..stopping
an incredibly overweight sled just doesnt happen as QUICK as you
can
accelerate it.
You still have the same four wheels stopping the car..as
anyone else.
*grin*
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Wise
[
mailto:diranged@south-park.cc]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 05, 2000 6:55 AM
To: Mohler, Jeff
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Help!!!
Why bother stoping it ? Just use the AWD and
go around obsticles :)
On Wed, 5 Jul 2000
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
wrote:
> So you're missing the BEST part of the car....This is WHERE
the 3-S is
> clearly superior
> ---
>
> Are you
kidding?
>
> Talk about having a SUV mentality here...
>
> Stopping a 4000+lb -car- in snow and ice is not a pleasurable
experience when
> you have to do it in a hurry..I dont care what you say
*grin*.
>
> Rain/snow/ice only serve to greatly magnify our car's
one great
problem..weight.
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#186
*********************