team3s              Friday, June 30 2000              Volume 01 : Number 180




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Date: 29 Jun 2000 15:43:32 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Source for Lower Ball Joints

Does anyone know of a source for lower ball joints for a 91 3000GT VR-4, without having to buy the entire control arm assembly?

I was not very carefull removing my lower ball joint and the boot is torn up on one side.  When I priced a repacement I was quoted $217 each!  I was told that the ball joint was only available as part of the lower control arm asembly.  Has anyone had any sucess buying the ball joint separately?

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altvista.com
91 3000gt VR-4


_______________________________________________________________________

$1 million in prizes! 20 daily instant winners.
AltaVista Rewards: Click here to win!
http://shopping.altavista.com/e.sdc?e=3

_______________________________________________________________________


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 17:57:43 -0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject: Team3S: electrical question

Hi All,

I have a problem with my 1992 VR4.     After getting the car back from
the body shop, the tail lights (rear running lights) and the instrument
lights do not illuminate.  We thought it was a pinched wiring harness,
but they all check out as good.
Here is the symptom...   Put in a good fuse, turn the lights on, the
lights flicker and the fuse blows right away.

Have any of you seen this before?

Thanks,
JAT


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:23:20 -0500
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Source for Lower Ball Joints

John Monnin wrote

>I was not very carefull removing my lower ball joint and the boot is torn
>up on one side.                                    Has anyone had any
>sucess buying the ball joint separately?
>
>John Monnin


Iv'e sucessfully replaced both my boots. The dealer sells them. Just be
carefull to use even pressure around the entire "ring" of the boot.

W

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:33:53 -0500
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: electrical question

You have a short circuit, I had the same problem on a car i once
owned........never did find that short.....

W

At 07:57 PM 06/29/2000 , Dr. John A. Tabler wrote:
>Hi All,
>Put in a good fuse, turn the lights on, the
>lights flicker and the fuse blows right away.
>
>Have any of you seen this before?
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 23:02:24 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: electrical question

I'll bet you have a pinched wire somewhere.  When you turn the lights on it
shorts out.


Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Dr. John A. Tabler
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 7:58 PM
To: 3000GT
Subject: Team3S: electrical question

Hi All,

I have a problem with my 1992 VR4.     After getting the car back from
the body shop, the tail lights (rear running lights) and the instrument
lights do not illuminate.  We thought it was a pinched wiring harness,
but they all check out as good.
Here is the symptom...   Put in a good fuse, turn the lights on, the
lights flicker and the fuse blows right away.

Have any of you seen this before?

Thanks,
JAT


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 22:05:04 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Source for Lower Ball Joints

torn boot eh?  that's par for the course.

first off, order yourself that special suspension puller tool from Miller Special Tools if you're going to be doing much of this work in the future.  Their number is (800) 533-5338 and they do sell to the general public.

I have the MB991113 (the puller, supersedes MB990635 refenced in the shop manual) which was $75, and the MB990799 and MB990776-A which are basically for pounding new boots into place, $15 and $25 respectively.

now, having said that, let me also add that there is probably no need to replace the ball joints.   Just get a set of new boots and install them.  The tricky part for me was getting the amount of grease in the boot just right so that it wouldn't be too full (and rub against metal excessively) and
not too loose.  Also, don't forget to use a torque wrench and tighten everything back to spec when you're done.

good luck,

Dave


John Monnin wrote:

> Does anyone know of a source for lower ball joints for a 91 3000GT VR-4, without having to buy the entire control arm assembly?
>
> I was not very carefull removing my lower ball joint and the boot is torn up on one side.  When I priced a repacement I was quoted $217 each!  I was told that the ball joint was only available as part of the lower control arm asembly.  Has anyone had any sucess buying the ball joint separately?
>
> John Monnin
> jkmonnin@altvista.com
> 91 3000gt VR-4
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
>
> $1 million in prizes! 20 daily instant winners.
> AltaVista Rewards: Click here to win!
> http://shopping.altavista.com/e.sdc?e=3
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 03:06:35 -0400
From: "Michael" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake lines

I'm having a problem with my brakes.  I can fully depress the brake pedal
yet I am not getting the full stopping power.  I've bled the lines to the
best of my knowledge, but haven't noticed a difference.  I've also noticed
that there is a silt like substance underneath the filter in the brake fluid
reservoir.  Almost looks like silt from the bottom of a pond.  Could someone
write up a quick summary on the correct way to either bleed these brakes or
how to drain and refill the whole system.

TIA,
Michael
98 VR4


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 10:24:44 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject: Team3S: K&N Filter charger got rid of fuel cut

I received in installed my K&N filter charger thingy last night from
Brad and took the car for a drive straight after and the fuel cut
problem I was having with boost hitting 1bar has completely gone????

Doest his mean the car just wasn't getting enough air for the boost
level the guy had it turned up to???

Thanks in advance
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 10:25:11 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject: Team3S: Installing EVC IV and want to remove existing boost mod. HELP PLEASE

I'm installing my EVC IV next but want to remove the mod that has the
boost increased now but don't know how it's done.

Does anyone have a picture of what the rear of the engine bay should
look like so that I can remove any mods that have been done and start
from scratch?

Thanks in advance
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 08:45:21 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Installing EVC IV and want to remove existing boost m od. HELP PLEASE

> I'm installing my EVC IV next but want to remove the mod that has the
> boost increased now but don't know how it's done.

Simple, replace the line going from the back of the Y-pipe to the "H
connector" with a line going to the input of the EVC IV "black box", and a
line going from the output of the box to the "H connector".  Unhook the line
that goes from the "H connector" to the black solenoid on the firewall and
plug it with something (a screw works good as it can't easily get pushed out
by pressure).  If there is anything at all connected to any of the lines
other than the "H connector", remove it.

You should have a straight shot from the Y-pipe to the boost controller,
then a line from boost controller to a T connector (you can use the H
connector and plug the side that doesn't go to the wastegates), then
straight lines to each of the wastegate actuators.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 10:42:54 -0400
From: "wbuckingham" <wbuckingham@dmci.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Installing EVC IV and want to remove existing boost mod. HELP PLEASE

Gordon,

If you have the shop manuals - Look in the thicker one (engine, chassis,
body), in the chapter under emissions control.  That would be Stealth Manual
11-9, 3000GT or CD Manual 15-8.
You will find an excellent diagram of all the stock vacuum line and related
components.  Just change your hoses to match the picture.

If you don't have a manual, I can email a copy of the diagram to you.
My email is wbuckingham@dmci.net

Bill
91 RT/TT
#0438




- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Gordon Tyrrell
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 5:25 AM
To: gto
Subject: Team3S: Installing EVC IV and want to remove existing boost
mod. HELP PLEASE



I'm installing my EVC IV next but want to remove the mod that has the
boost increased now but don't know how it's done.

Does anyone have a picture of what the rear of the engine bay should
look like so that I can remove any mods that have been done and start
from scratch?

Thanks in advance
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 12:07:29 EDT
From: AABOMB1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Spark Plugs

In a message dated 6/30/2000 5:28:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, LizVong21
writes:

> how do i get back on the mailing list

Go to the Team3S Home page at:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/index.html

From there click on "CLICK here to read our Rules..." and after you have
reviewed the rules, click one one of the links below based on which version
of the list you want to recieve.



AA

- -------------------
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In United States]

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 11:46:27 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000 GTO stereo

hmm, not sure about the UK, but here the basic unit of car stereo volume is called the "DIN".  The 3000gt/stealth have a double-DIN slot for the stereo.  so you could either
put in two pieces (head unit and equalizer, etc.) or do what i did and just put in a head unit, and a plastic "pocket" for holding coins, sunglasses, etc in the lower
DIN slot.  Just go to any car stereo installation place and ask for a pocket.  You won't get one especially for the stealth (i think mine is for a honda) but a litle
hacksawing and ingenuity with bushings, etc. will get it installed.

or if you prefer, you just just get a big chunk of ABS plastic to block off the 2nd DIN slot.  I find the pocket to be handy though.

btw, your newly-turned rotors will be warped again in 2000-3000 miles (in my experience)!

Martin wrote:

> Hi all
> Sorry if this subject has been covered already but I'm new.
> I have a 92 GTO and it has the stock stereo in at the moment, I would like to replace it with a head unit and CD changer, but not sure of the best location for the changer.
> But the main problem is that the original stereo is about 4/5 inches square and would leave a huge hole when removed.
> Is there some kind of template that I can obtain that will solve the problem and is the wiring a problem?
> I know I will lose the steering wheel controls but thats not important.
> Any help is appreciated.
> Regards
> Martin
> BTW I had my rotors turned my Mitsubishi yesterday and new pads put in for the usual problem of juddering on braking and man what a difference........totally stable now.
> So if anyone out there has a similar problem....get them rotors turned. just my pennies worth.
> Regards
> Martin Berkley
> Technical Support Specialist
> Star Internet
> support@star.co.uk
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> This message has been checked for all known viruses by Star Internet delivered
> through the MessageLabs Virus Control Centre. For further information visit-
> http://www.star.net.uk/stats.asp
>
------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #180
*********************


team3s              Friday, June 30 2000              Volume 01 : Number 181

No digest #181 - VirusWorm, and no content.

Message deleted.

This is just a placeholder...


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #181
*********************


team3s             Saturday, July 1 2000             Volume 01 : Number 182




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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 16:01:31 -0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: Virus warning on list

Guys,

My McAfee program informed me of a virus detected in an attachment from
Robby/SOL.  The attachment is called pretty park .exe.    If you have
received this attachment, don't open it.

McAfee tried to clean the virus but was unable to so I will just delete the
e-mail.  This virus came through team 3s, not through starnet, but I thought
it wise to send a notice to both lists.

Mark


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 13:11:12 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin NOTICE:  VIRUS--DO NOT OPEN ROGER'S MESSAGE!!!

This message was posted to the list by his infected computer, not by
Roger (Robby).  It contains the VERY damaging worm, "Pretty Park.exe"

Reply privately if you have problems...

Roger has temporarily been removed from the list until his problem is
cleared.  If you receive a private email from him, do not open it if it
has an attachment of any kind!!!

Best,

Bob Forrest
Admin, Team3S





***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 15:07:38 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe

OK, the attachment to this e-mail is avirus.  Not sure who else got it, but
it is one...  Designed to look like a South Park cartoon - seen largely a
few months ago - please no one open this attachment.  (It's actually a type
of Trojan/Worm)

- -Cody

#-----Original Message-----
#From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
#[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Robby/SOL
#Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 1:46 PM
#To: mailbox@mail.swissonline.ch
#Subject: Team3S: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
#
#
#Test: Pretty Park.exe  :)
#
#   Robby/SOL
#


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 13:23:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin NOTICE:  VIRUS!!!  Do not open DIGESTS 180 or 181!

We will replace Digest 180 with a "clean", virus-free version...  Digest
181 is PURE virus, and will not be replaced.

Bob Forrest
Admin, Team3S




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 13:46:18 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: A/F meter Installation?

Hi All,
I know some of you have Air/Fuel mixture meters or gauges installed
in your 3/Ss - what kind do you have and where did you install it? 

Depending on cost/hassle, I'm interested in installing such a
gauge/meter in my 3000GT.  I don't need an integrated unit with a boost
controller/turbo timer or anything like that because I have a NA car.  So
assuming such a beast exists (I figure it's got to), where does one install
the sensor?  In the manifold somewhere? 

In case anyone is curious, the reason I'm thinking about an A/F
meter is that my car is still lightly pinging (posted about serious pinging
a while back).  I've got the compression down now (178-188psi, spec is
185psi), and the intake manifold, plenum, intake valves, cylinder walls, and
piston tops are all nice and shiny now.  Also, I checked the timing - it's
within spec (basic and actual).   I also grounded the ignition timing
adjustment terminal and drove the car around the block (effectively holding
the timing to 5 degrees) and I could still hear some pinging.
Since the timing, compression, fuel type (Texaco Premium - 92
octane), and air filter, all appear to be ok AND I don't have a check engine
light on, the only thing I can figure is that something is making the engine
run lean (clogged FI, low fuel pressure, bad sensor that's not setting off
the check engine light, etc).  Before checking out things that would make
the engine run lean, I'd like to see if in fact it is running lean.  


Thanks!
- --Erik


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:35:57 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: shortblock

What other mods do you have?  I live at sea level and do not want to spend
the big$$ for better intercoolers.  If the ICs are good for 9bs, then will
they be fine for 15gs with a lower output temp?  -or is the extra mass of
air taxing them beyond limits?  If the IC piping is all the same diameter,
then where are we getting more CFM?

Sam 95 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
<team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: shortblock


>Hi John,
>
>IMHO, if you control detonation and keep the oil in good shape, the
>1st gen 2-bolt main bearing caps (and stock crank and rods) are more
>than adequate up to 500 HP or so. If you plan on adding 15Gs and
>upping the boost a **lot**, then forged pistons are good insurance. I
>say, save your money for your kids' college fund (or better yet that
>used Viper in a few years) and rebuild your 2-bolt. Be sure to have
>it dynamically balanced properly to minimize wear on the bearings and
>bolts.
>
>PS. I'm detonation-free with 15Gs and 550s upto 1.25 kg/cm2 (18 psi)
>on pump gas, that's a pressure ratio of 2.5 here in Colorado.
>
>Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
>Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
>  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Monnin" <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
>To: <team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 9:26 PM
>Subject: Team3S: shortblock
>
>I am looking for a 4-bolt main shortblock.   M&S Recyling has sold
>new 4-bolt shortblocks on e-bay for $1250 and $1500 but they now want
>$2500 for one.   This really irritates me because I called them
>2-weeks ago and was quoted $1750 or $1850 (I can’t remember which).
>
>Now I am looking for either a new 4-bolt main or a cheap rebuildable
>4-bolt main core.    Since my wife is pregnant with our second (due
>on Dec 31)  my car budget it shot and If I don’t get it back together
>before too long it may have to sit for another year.
>
>I noticed that Jeff Lucius has built a very beefy 2bolt main block,
>has anyone else had good luck with 2-bolts?   I only plan on making
>intake and exhaust mods with a boost controller, am I safe with stock
>2-bolt main and cast pistons?
>
>If anyone has a 4-bolt shortblock for sale, or is looking for a good
>2-bolt shortblock that just needs crank and pistons:  Please email
>your home or work phone number and I will call you.
>
>Thanks again for all the info this list has given me.
>
>My work email is
>Jmonnin@utilimaster.com
>
>My home email is
>Jkmonnin@altavista.com
>
>John Monnin
>1991 3000GT VR-4
>Been down for 3 months
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
>http://mail.yahoo.com/
>
>***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:09:46 -0400
From: Jay Price Stump <jstump@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tire Help!!!

Need to get Tires tomorrow. Help. Thank for your comments . Someone
suggested Michelen pilot sports. What are your thought on the best tires
for our cars




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 23:25:07 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Help!!!

- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay Price Stump" <jstump@erols.com>
To: "list" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Need to get Tires tomorrow. Help. Thank for your comments . Someone
> suggested Michelen pilot sports. What are your thought on the best
tires
> for our cars


We need to know a bit more than that! ---  :-)
    What model?
    What do you use the car for?
    How fast do you drive?
    Do you want an everyday tire or a racing tire?
    What kind of racing?
    Does it rain where you live?
    Do you drive on curves or on straightaways?
    etc...

For a great all-around V-rated tire (up to 135mph) that holds the
corners and wears like iron, (300 rating), I like the Nitto Extreme
Performance 450s, but I've heard great things about the 555s, too.
They're 9.25" wide, so they hydroplane at stock inflation, (but I don't
ever use my tires at stock inflation so I don't have the problem).  But
that's just my experience, and one man's opinion.  Even just among the
Admins, we each like different tires, so you'll probably get lots of
answers from the members.  But it will probably be next week!  Asking a
question at the beginning of a 4-day holiday weekend, (when most of us
should be driving instead of hanging out on our computers), will
probably not get you a whole lot of response...  Maybe you'll get lucky
if a few of us are leaving tomorrow (or daytripping all weekend, like
me!)  :-)  Check TireRack and make a list of the tires with the features
you want, then use the Team3S Search Page and search for those tire
names...  That'll help fill in the gaps
between our recommendations.

Best,

Forrest









***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 23:32:40 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S: powerslots warped - ready for porterfields

My powerslot rotors have gotten warped after less than 10,000 miles.
Man, I am ticked off!  I think I spent $250 - $300 for those things.
Not any better than stock (probably worse, from the stories I've heard
about the darn things breaking!)

So, I guess I'll forget about the gimmicky powerslots, and get a set of
porterfields.  Only $87.50 each at www.porterfield-brakes.com.  Does
Porterfield sell direct to the public?

Question:  how much does the cryogenic treatment cost, and is it
worthwhile?  Also, how about the cross-drilling?  My driving is about
50/50 city/highway, occasional high speeds, no track or autocross.

Dave
'91 R/T TT



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 06:42:06 -0100
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: powerslots warped - ready for porterfields

Yes, they do sell directly to the public.  If I recall correctly the cryo
treatment was an additional $40 each.  Dunno if it pays off or not, I just
got mine and they aren't even on yet.  Cross drilling would probably be
fine in your case, the real problems (from what I understand) start when
you go auto crossing or road racing.  I recall hearing that cross drilled
rotors can actually warp quicker in certain situations.  They should stay
cooler, but as they have less mass they may warp faster if you're standing
on the brakes after a hard stop or washing your car while the rotors are
hot.  I'm not certain about any of the above, it's what I've heard and it
seems logical.

Hope that helps,
Jason


David Margrave wrote:

>   Does Porterfield sell direct to the public?
>
> Question:  how much does the cryogenic treatment cost, and is it
> worthwhile?  Also, how about the cross-drilling?  My driving is about
> 50/50 city/highway, occasional high speeds, no track or autocross.


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 05:28:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: shortblock

Hi Sam,

All of my mods are listed at my web site. The best way to tell if
stock ICs are adequate for your individual setup and driving style is
to measure the air temperature at various points in the intake track;
ideally - air filter, after turbo, before IC, after IC, and plenum. I
have not done this yet myself so can't offer data - it's on my to do
list. Roger Gerl has posted some numbers in the past. My after market
2" IC piping has about a 30% larger cross-sectional area than stock.
Plus the IC themselves are about twice as large. Pics are at my web
site. I am striving for the best balanced system I can afford, so I
upgraded the IC system to match the 15Gs and 550 injectors, ATR
exhaust system, flow-worked heads, and bored out motor (3.056L). Save
your money on the ICs and spend $25 on a thermistor and voltmeter and
measure the air temp near the plenum. If it is unacceptable (like
over 100ºF to just pick a number), then maybe you need to upgrade
something - ICs or turbos.

The IC system does not affect the volume air flow (CFM) much. It does
change the mass air flow by changing pressure or temperature
(therefore density). Please check out my discussion of this at the
url below for more details.

http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-primer.htm

Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
 --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: shortblock

What other mods do you have?  I live at sea level and do not want to
spend the big$$ for better intercoolers.  If the ICs are good for
9bs, then will they be fine for 15gs with a lower output temp?  -or
is the extra mass of air taxing them beyond limits?  If the IC piping
is all the same diameter, then where are we getting more CFM?

Sam 95 VR-4



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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 13:16:29 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire Help!!!

Jay (careful - this is a long response),

   Great questions from Forrest and asking before the holiday weekend will
be rough.  Fortunately, I spent the morning waxing and shining my car and am
relaxing before driving it around today.  I ordered from Tirerack and had
them delivered and installed on my car within 3 days (from order to delivery
to installation).  If you want something today then go to Sears, NTB,
Goodyear, etc. for choices.  I listed a bunch of links at the bottom.
   Pirelli's web site (www.pirelli.com <http://www.pirelli.com> ) asks some
basic questions and makes you rate them (handling, tread life, etc.) and
then makes some educated guesses as to what tire is best for you.  Tirerack
(www.tirerack.com <http://www.tirerack.com> ) allows you to pick the Nitto
555 and then find comparable tires so you don't have to do it yourself.
   I have always had a spot in my heart for Pirelli so I am biased here.  I
nearly got the Pirelli P6000 or P7000 tires since they seemed like a good
balance between semi-performance and most-of-the-year usage.  However, after
test-driving my car I decided to throw that philosophy out the window and
buy a tire that could handle what this car could put down to the road.
   I bought the best damn tires I could find which are the Pirelli P-Zero
Asymmetrical tires ($265 each from Tirerack for the 245/40/18 size).  The
only reason I bought them before picking up the car was the fact that the
car had two Nittos, one Yoko, and one Dunlop on it and I wanted a matched
set.  The other reason was that I would rather spend $1,100 on tires now
instead of $400 now and $1,500 later on a fender because the cheap tires
couldn't hold in a turn and ran my car into a guardrail.  Very logical I
felt.
   However, you had better be one heck of a driver to use these tires
(experienced with the power of the car and how it handles in turns) or else
real daring to learn how it really feels to stick to the ground.  I am still
very green here after having the car only two weeks and have nearly crapped
my pants three times so far from scaring myself with the tire performance.
Don't get me wrong, the tires work perfectly.  However, cheaper tires will
talk to you earlier which is a good way to learn.
   Put on some cheap tires and they'll talk (i.e. squeal) so you can learn
what is too fast, too tight, too hard, etc.  The P-Zero tires don't talk
until just about the time the car gets loose in a turn.  The only exception
is on a reverse-banked turn on in a very sharp hairpin or downhill turn into
a corner.  At that point any tire will squeal except the ones from an Indy
car.
   The other thing is the power that 2nd and 3rd have in turns between 40
mph and 65 mph.  I was turning and merging onto a road that was bordered by
stone on the right and Jersey barriers on the left.  I came into the turn in
second (around 40 mph) and accelerated through it (probably up to 45 or 50
mph) and the tires only barely squealed.  The back end started to step out
and want to meet up with that Jersey barrier.  I took my foot off the
throttle and the AWD grabbed hold and brought the car back in shape.  I had
to saw on the steering wheel a bit but I am not used to this yet.  Normally
you should be able to hold the small slide and accelerate through and have
the AWD bring you through.  I did not want to test that yet.
   One last thing, with the windows and sunroof shut and the radio on - the
small amount if tire squeal is almost undetectable.  If you are going to
drive the road and take the turns I highly recommend opening the windows a
bit or turning down the radio.  This was the other way I nearly stained the
driver's seat.

- --Flash! (actually Darren, but that is my nickname around here)
'95 VR-4 (two weeks old so far)
18x8.5J " chrome wheels
Pirelli P-Zero Asymmetrical 245/40/18 tires on all corners

Car tires sites:
Tirerack -- http://www.tirerack.com/ <http://www.tirerack.com/>
Global list of tire manufacturers --
http://autopedia.com/TireSchool/TireG.html
<http://autopedia.com/TireSchool/TireG.html>

BF Goodrich -- http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/
Bridgestone -- http://www.bridgestone.com/
Cooper -- http://www.coopertires.com/
Dunlop -- http://www.dunloptire.com/
Goodyear -- http://www.goodyear.com/
Kumho -- http://www.kumhotire.com/english/index.htm
Michelin -- http://www.michelin.com/
Nitto -- http://64.38.194.68/nonflash.htm
Pirelli -- http://www.pirelli.com/web/site/default.htm
Toyo -- http://www.toyo.com/
Yokohama -- http://www.yokohamatire.com/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 02:25
To: jstump@erols.com; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Help!!!

We need to know a bit more than that! ---  :-)
    What model?
    What do you use the car for?
    How fast do you drive?
    Do you want an everyday tire or a racing tire?
    What kind of racing?
    Does it rain where you live?
    Do you drive on curves or on straightaways?
    etc...

For a great all-around V-rated tire (up to 135mph) that holds the
corners and wears like iron, (300 rating), I like the Nitto Extreme
Performance 450s, but I've heard great things about the 555s, too.
They're 9.25" wide, so they hydroplane at stock inflation, (but I don't
ever use my tires at stock inflation so I don't have the problem).  But
that's just my experience, and one man's opinion.  Even just among the
Admins, we each like different tires, so you'll probably get lots of
answers from the members.  But it will probably be next week!  Asking a
question at the beginning of a 4-day holiday weekend, (when most of us
should be driving instead of hanging out on our computers), will
probably not get you a whole lot of response...  Maybe you'll get lucky
if a few of us are leaving tomorrow (or daytripping all weekend, like
me!)  :-)  Check TireRack and make a list of the tires with the features
you want, then use the Team3S Search Page and search for those tire
names...  That'll help fill in the gaps
between our recommendations.

Best,

Forrest


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 10:38:11 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: powerslots warped - ready for porterfields

I have/had porterfields.

9 laps at Thunderhill cracked em from the hub out, on the Big Red upgrade even.

- -----Original Message-----
From: David Margrave [mailto:davidma@eskimo.com]
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 11:33 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: powerslots warped - ready for porterfields



My powerslot rotors have gotten warped after less than 10,000 miles.
Man, I am ticked off!  I think I spent $250 - $300 for those things.
Not any better than stock (probably worse, from the stories I've heard
about the darn things breaking!)

So, I guess I'll forget about the gimmicky powerslots, and get a set of
porterfields.  Only $87.50 each at www.porterfield-brakes.com.  Does
Porterfield sell direct to the public?

Question:  how much does the cryogenic treatment cost, and is it
worthwhile?  Also, how about the cross-drilling?  My driving is about
50/50 city/highway, occasional high speeds, no track or autocross.

Dave
'91 R/T TT



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 14:17:25 EDT
From: Screemo@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Black box??? HELP!!

Hey gang, I finally received my Borla exhaust from carparts.com and decided
to have my mechanic put it on two days ago. I was under the car throughout
the entire install. As my mechanic was installing the exhaust I was browsing
the underside of my VR-4. I noticed something that had caught my attention.
Looking from the front of the car towards the rear I noticed what looked like
a "black oil pan" or something. It was directly underneath the oil filter and
about 6" towards the rear of the car. It had come to my attention because the
area looked pretty wet. Nothing was dripping but when I touched it there was
very dark oil on it. I had asked the mechanic about it but of course he was
clueless. He said that he thought it was coming from somewhere in the engine.
I thought it was the oil pan but my mechanic said it wasn't. Please help me
out with this guys. Sorry for the long letter.

Bill in NY
94" VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 13:43:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Black box??? HELP!!

Well I just went out and looked under the car - kind of tough when
not jacked up. But directly to the rear from the oil filter is the
oil pan. It has a pipe in front and one in back that return oil to it
from the turbo oil supply lines. Either of these could be leaking, or
the drain plug or the seal between the pan and block or something
above or near the pan. Do you mean the mechanic was clueless as to
this being the oil pan or to where the oil was coming from? You knew
this was the oil pan right?

Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
 --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Screemo@aol.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 12:17 PM
Subject: Team3S: Black box??? HELP!!

Hey gang, I finally received my Borla exhaust from carparts.com and
decided to have my mechanic put it on two days ago. I was under the
car throughout the entire install. As my mechanic was installing the
exhaust I was browsing the underside of my VR-4. I noticed something
that had caught my attention. Looking from the front of the car
towards the rear I noticed what looked like a "black oil pan" or
something. It was directly underneath the oil filter and about 6"
towards the rear of the car. It had come to my attention because the
area looked pretty wet. Nothing was dripping but when I touched it
there was very dark oil on it. I had asked the mechanic about it but
of course he was clueless. He said that he thought it was coming from
somewhere in the engine. I thought it was the oil pan but my mechanic
said it wasn't. Please help me out with this guys. Sorry for the long
letter.

Bill in NY
94" VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #182
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