team3s
Wednesday, June 28
2000 Volume 01
: Number
178
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:21:44 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Installed
high flow pump, car stumbled on quick right turn...
Did you change your
fuel filter to a high flow type as well?
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message
dated 6/26/00 6:54:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
shmacker@home.com writes:
<<
ubj: Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick right
turn...
Date: 6/26/00 6:54:22 PM Pacific Daylight
Time
From:
shmacker@home.com (Chris
Maxwell)
Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st To:
stealth@stls.verio.net,
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st I
installed the HK$ high flow pump today and finally got the AFC working
and
then went for a test spin. The fuel level was a tick under
1/4 and when I
made a quick right turn at an intersection (roughly
20mph, maybe a little
less), the car stumbled (like it had no fuel
perhaps and wanted to stall)
for about a second until I got out of the
turn. It was fine when I was
going straight again. Could
this be a fuel pickup problem? Perhaps I was a
little careless in
installing the new fuel pump? This is the only thing
>>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 07:40:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick right
turn...
Just some guesses here. My FP install page
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-fuelpump.htm
shows pictures of the pump assembly. Maybe the O-ring on top of the
pump
got damaged and so "leaks" when fuel is below that level? Did
the white
plastic piece on top seat properly? I would think that if
the bottom gasket
was damaged the problems would occur all the time.
I don't think the
fuel-level float or low-level sensor would cause a
problem. Also, it wouldn't
take too long to replace the pump with the
old one just to see if there is a
difference.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 26, 2000 7:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car
stumbled on quick
right turn...
I installed the HK$ high flow pump
today and finally got the AFC
working and then went for a test spin.
The fuel level was a tick
under 1/4 and when I made a quick right turn at an
intersection
(roughly 20mph, maybe a little less), the car stumbled (like it
had
no fuel perhaps and wanted to stall) for about a second until I
got
out of the turn. It was fine when I was going straight again.
Could
this be a fuel pickup problem? Perhaps I was a little careless
in
installing the new fuel pump? This is the only thing that I
can
think of since the car never did this before and I've made right
turns
much faster than that and with less gas without a problem. Oh,
and the
problem was repeatable as I tried it at the next
intersection. I filled
up the tank and that seems to have solved the
problem for now, but I have a
feeling that when the tank gets lower
again, the problem will return.
If I screwed up installing the pump,
what might I have done to have caused
this?
If this problem could be caused by something else, please share
your
ideas.
=)
Thannks again,
Chris
92 R/T TT (after 3 months
of torture, the car runs
again...although
somewhat
sickly)
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:08:22
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick right turn...
But
seriously..im positive its what happens if you slosh a low tank on
a
high-flow pump..you get a LOT more air in the system quicker than you
did
before, and the FPR return system doesnt get enough time to remove it
all.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [
mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, June 27, 2000 7:40 AM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick
right
turn...
Just some guesses here. My FP install page
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-fuelpump.htm
shows pictures of the pump assembly. Maybe the O-ring on top of the
pump
got damaged and so "leaks" when fuel is below that level? Did
the white
plastic piece on top seat properly? I would think that if
the bottom gasket
was damaged the problems would occur all the time.
I don't think the
fuel-level float or low-level sensor would cause a
problem. Also, it wouldn't
take too long to replace the pump with the
old one just to see if there is a
difference.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, June 26, 2000 7:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car
stumbled on quick
right turn...
I installed the HK$ high flow pump
today and finally got the AFC
working and then went for a test spin.
The fuel level was a tick
under 1/4 and when I made a quick right turn at an
intersection
(roughly 20mph, maybe a little less), the car stumbled (like it
had
no fuel perhaps and wanted to stall) for about a second until I
got
out of the turn. It was fine when I was going straight again.
Could
this be a fuel pickup problem? Perhaps I was a little careless
in
installing the new fuel pump? This is the only thing that I
can
think of since the car never did this before and I've made right
turns
much faster than that and with less gas without a problem. Oh,
and the
problem was repeatable as I tried it at the next
intersection. I filled
up the tank and that seems to have solved the
problem for now, but I have a
feeling that when the tank gets lower
again, the problem will return.
If I screwed up installing the pump,
what might I have done to have caused
this?
If this problem could be caused by something else, please share
your
ideas.
=)
Thannks again,
Chris
92 R/T TT (after 3 months
of torture, the car runs
again...although
somewhat
sickly)
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 11:15:11
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick right
turn...
> But seriously..im positive its what happens if you slosh a
low tank on a
> high-flow pump..you get a LOT more air in the system
quicker than you did
> before, and the FPR return system doesnt get enough
time to remove it all.
Yup, classic fuel sloshing symptoms... I've
had it happen a few times while autocrossing and adding some fuel solved
it. Does your upgraded fuel pump reach as far down into the tank as the
stock one did? Maybe check the alignment of the fuel pickup sock/filter to
make sure it is set correctly. I haven't swapped my fuel pump in yet, so I
haven't seen how it is situated myself.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 11:33:23
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Overboost (knock sensor)
>According to Josh at TEC,
abnormally high boost levels
>can be possible due to an extremely rich
condition and/or
>an extremely retarded timing condition. Why?
There is
>so much fuel and/or the timing is so retarded that lots
of
>fuel is leaving the cylinder, making its way into the
turbine
>housing, igniting in the turbine housing and thus
"boosting"
>the turbine wheel itself.
I had a faulty knock sensor
on my 91 AWD talon, and so
have MANY other people (in DSM
land).
Symptoms were:
Carboned up turbo (stock 13g). Replaced
under warranty
BLACK exhaust tips, even blackened the bumper a bit
Stinky
smell if followed under WOT, worse than normal
Slower than molasses in alaska
(winter).
Hell, couldn't outrun a geo metro at times!
ECU Reset's would
bring power back for a few miles
EXCESSIVE fuel consumption (12mpg,
less?)
Boost seemed normal, if not even "faster" to build!
Car felt as it
was traveling uphill all the time.
Diagnosis
Took it to HRC, they
tried to rip me off - doesn't this sound corny?
"Yea, we will look at it,
but you have to put a cap on how much money you
want to spend with us, and if
we find it before your money runs out, then
that will be great, if not, you
can put more money into it"
I had about 300$ left to "blow" on my car,
and almost did the HRC
thing, but then learned of the TMO
datalogger.
The Logger showed unnatural "knock" spikes, even at idle I
could
have either full knock, no knock or bouncing around in
between.
After an ECU reset, Timing would be back up to 15 (even with
strange
knock), but soon would drop back down to 5 or even 0 at
WOT!
Pulled the knock sensor off (after I had previously changed or
tested
almost every other sensor on the damn car), and replaced with
an
OEM new one. The stock one had goop running out the back of it,
and had
tiny chunks of rust in the "mic" hole. It was also on VERY
tight, it only
NEEDS to be around 5-7ft/lbs, must have been about 20-30
to take it
off!
I have a feeling that corrosion, and the loss of the "goop" caused
it to
become "hyperactive". It must have though lifters or some other
slight
tapping noise was knock.
All was good for about 1 year, until
the car was drivin for 10 miles with
0 oil pressure. Still starts, but is
getting a new engine anyway.
PS: running so rich for so long also mucks
up your o2 sensor,
and in our case, sensor*s* in *hard* to reach
places.
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
NEW*
http://www.eaglecars.com/ - Eagle is
back!
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:31:13
-0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick
rightturn...
Matt Jannusch wrote:
> > But seriously..im
positive its what happens if you slosh a low tank on a
> > high-flow
pump..you get a LOT more air in the system quicker than you did
> >
before, and the FPR return system doesnt get enough time to remove it
all.
>
> Yup, classic fuel sloshing symptoms... I've had it
happen a few times
> while autocrossing and adding some fuel solved
it.
Does this ever happen under heavy forward acceleration?
Many
people like to dragrace their cars with low fuel in the
tank (for weight
savings), and I'm wondering if there is a "safe"
level to use in order to
ensure that adequate fuel will get picked
up by the pump.
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 03:58:42
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick right
turn...
>Yup, classic fuel sloshing symptoms... I've had it
happen a few times
while autocrossing and adding some fuel solved it.
Does your upgraded fuel
pump reach as far down into the tank as the stock one
did? Maybe check the
alignment of the fuel pickup s
>
This is
weird. I had the same problem last week at Marshalltown for the
first time.
When kicking it coming out of a 45 mph right hand carousel, it
hiccuped. But
the hiccup went away as the tank went down. When I was
running on fumes, the
car was running great!
Do I have a weird car or what?
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 10:03:02
-0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Overboost question
Robby/SOL wrote:
> > fuel is
leaving the cylinder, making its way into the turbine
> > housing,
igniting in the turbine housing and thus "boosting"
> > the turbine
wheel itself.
>
> This is extremely seldom and only on cars that
have been driven every hard
> where the turbine hosuing of the turbo is
gettign extremely hot and then the
> fuel may ignite.
With an
overly rich condition and retarded timing, it would
most likely be the spark
from the spark plugs that actually
ignites the fuel within the
turbine.
> > This problem may have started for Julian (we are not
totally
> > sure) when he installed a California-spec MAF sensor,
even
> > though his car is a non-California VR4. He was
replacing
>
> No, the MAF is the same only the maps for timing and
fuel are different as
> well as some have EGR sensors and that
stuff.
Exactly. This is why we need to jumper his timing back
to
the factory timing. We must consider the possibility
that
installing the wrong sensor did permanent damage to the ECU.
>
> to open at about 5-6 psi, but the condition did not change. It
also
> > did not change when I plugged the system back into his
stock
> > boost solenoid. High boost persisted.
>
>
Does this mean that you did not made the vacuum pump test as I tried to
>
describe. How do you know if one hose is damaged or something in the
hose
> itselfs that causes it blocked ?? IMHO, it's better to test the
stuff
> correctly and not to trial and error on the street.
Believe
me, I have worked with these cars long enough to know
how to diagnose an
overboost problem. :-) After eliminating the
boost controller and stock
boost solenoid as the source of the
problem, I immediately suggested that the
wastegates or wastegate
actuators or wastegate lines could be faulty.
We couldn't test them
right away since we needed to go buy a small
handpump. But
almost the very next day, Julian had bought new turbos
and dropped
his car off at the shop. The new turbos eliminated two of the
above
three things, and the wastegate lines still remain to be tested (with
a
handpump) since the new turbos are in and the problem persists.
>
> At the time I suspected that his wastegates (or actuators) were
bad,
> > but now that he has new turbos it rules that
out.
>
> Yes, and the hoses ????
Not tested yet since I never
had a chance to test it. Julian was
optimistic enough that it was the
wastegates that he went and
bought completely new turbos. But at that
time I had already
even suggested that fuel/timing problems could be the
source of
this ~above~ normal overboost, and this has a variety of
causes.
> Again, ... what fuel controller is used
???
None. When the problem first arose, Julian was using
stock
injectors and no fuel controller.
> Also, is the stock boost
out of the road or what ?
Huh? The stock boost solenoid is removed
from the system.
His previous installers didn't do this, so I did it myself
for him.
> Is it plugged up or not ???
> ... and what about the
list of mods that would count?
Quite a few of the other usual mods:
catback, dp, gutted pc,
blitz filter, hks ssbov, hks ic, hks hardpipes, avcr,
afc, 550s,
tec 13g, supra pump, tein coilovers, other irrelevant
stuff....
Problem remains pretty much the same after new turbos
and
fuel mods installed.
> Report back how the pump test as I described in
the previous message worked
> out (exactly follwo the procedure) and let's
go for the next step then.
Ok, thanks for the help and advice, Roger (et
al)!
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 23:53:13
+0200
From: "Robby/SOL" <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Latest dyno page up !
Guys, I just uploaded the latest page with
the dyno information from May
2000 (two pulls with data log) onto my domain.
It is the base dyno session I
made before I started with the real big
upgrade.
Check it out under
http://www.rtec.chRoger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 16:37:45
PDT
From: "Zentelis none" <
zentelis@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Happiest Man Alive
I just got back from Iowa and am a proud new
owner a red '94 R/T TT. The car
is absolutely incredible. Only 2 previous
owners who both took real good
care of it. It had a gearbox/clutch
replacement 10k miles ago and runs
perfectly. The nice part is, it's 100%
stock, so I'll be able to do air
filters, boost controllers, etc etc and
learn the car basically from the
ground up. I still have to get the title
transfered to PA, but after that
I'll have it detailed and touched up(paint
chips on the front from stones
and what-not) and get some pictures up
somewhere (not that everyone here
doesn't know what it looks like, I'm just
really proud of it :)
- -Aaron
'94 R/T TT (Gotta love
it!)
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:44:00
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Latest dyno page up !
> Guys, I just uploaded the latest page
with the dyno information from May
> 2000 (two pulls with data log) onto
my domain. It is the base dyno session I
> made before I started with the
real big upgrade.
Hmm, still a fair amount of knock occuring at not real
high boost levels. I suspect it is because you aren't flowing air through
the intercoolers. They don't do anything if there isn't a lot of ambient
airflow over their surfaces, and are the main defense against knock and
detonation. Any chance that at your next dyno session you could measure
the intake temps somewhere after the intercoolers? I'd be interested in
seeing what the readings would be. I'd almost say that depriving the
intercoolers air is a good way to ruin a turbo motor in a hurry!
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 22:41:24
-0000
From: "Sue Smith" <
saintsue@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dyno
Does the VPC work well with the G-Force ECU, or is the
G-Force worthless
after installation of the VPC because of the loss of stock
MAF? Was that
443 at the wheels?
Thanks
Sue
> I
have a 1994 TT with quite a few mods but here are the ones which
are
responsible for the 443HP.
> MSD ignition,VPC,HKS fuel pump, RC 560
injectors, G Force ECU,
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------------------------------
Date: 27 Jun 2000 20:26:24
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: shortblock
I am looking for a 4-bolt main shortblock.
M&S Recyling has sold new 4-bolt shortblocks on e-bay for $1250 and $1500
but they now want $2500 for one. This really irritates me because I
called them 2-weeks ago and was quoted $1750 or $1850 (I can’t remember
which).
Now I am looking for either a new 4-bolt main or a cheap
rebuildable 4-bolt main core. Since my wife is pregnant with
our second (due on Dec 31) my car budget it shot and If I don’t get it
back together before too long it may have to sit for another year.
I
noticed that Jeff Lucius has built a very beefy 2bolt main block, has anyone
else had good luck with 2-bolts? I only plan on making intake and
exhaust mods with a boost controller, am I safe with stock 2-bolt main and cast
pistons?
If anyone has a 4-bolt shortblock for sale, or is looking for a
good 2-bolt shortblock that just needs crank and pistons: Please email
your home or work phone number and I will call you.
Thanks again for all
the info this list has given me.
My work email is
Jmonnin@utilimaster.comMy home
email is
Jkmonnin@altavista.comJohn
Monnin
1991 3000GT VR-4
Been down for 3
months
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 00:58:25
-0000
From: "Sue Smith" <
saintsue@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Bauerstealth dyno results
Is it true that "racing gas" only helps
add hp if there is detonation? Or
in that case, any higher octane
gasoline? If this is so, I read on the
3si.org website, a couple of
weeks ago, where Bauerstealth posted his dyno
numbers. He had 317 (or
thereabouts) hp at the wheels with stock turbos and
pump gas running 1.0 bar
of boost. However, when he ran racing gas and 1.2
bar of boost,
he had something like 340 hp at the wheels. Now I can see
that he
should have an increase in peak torque (he did) because the low rpm
where we
make our torque peak can have sustained extra boost (the 0.2 bar).
However,
where did the hp increase come from? We all know that the 9b
turbos can
only sustain 0.75 (approx) boost to redline, and to our 6000 rpm
hp peak as
well. It seems to me that perhaps (?) there is something wrong
with his
car where there is detonation & retarded timing at even 1.0 bar of
boost,
that is only fixed when the extra octane racing fuel is added? Is
this
a correct assumption or not?
Thanks,
Sue
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 07:07:25
+0100
From: "Simon Jones" <
Team3S@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil Pressure Gauge / Sensor
Hi,
My oil pressure gauge has
stopped working (seems to be co-incidental with
changing the spark
plugs). I've found the wiring harness detailed in the
manual, but can't
find the actual location of the sensor. Any ideas?
Simon
Jones
'94 GTO
P.S. Yes there is oil in the car!
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:01:51
+0200
From: Robby <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bauerstealth dyno results
>Is it true that "racing gas" only
helps add hp if there is detonation?
Racing gas slows down the burn and
therefore the timing can be stayed
advanced. This slow down decreases the
danger of knock and therefore the
mixture can be leaner what finally results
in more hp. Even more, race gas
is of better quality and can be burnt
"better" what also gives you more power.
>He had 317 (or thereabouts)
hp at the wheels with stock turbos and
>pump gas running 1.0 bar of
boost.
I thought he posted much higher numbers
(optimistic)
>However, when he ran racing gas and 1.2
>bar of
boost, he had something like 340 hp at the wheels. Now I can
see
>that he should have an increase in peak torque (he did) because the
low rpm
>where we make our torque peak can have sustained extra boost (the
0.2 bar).
>However, where did the hp increase come from?
From
0.2 bars of more boost.
> We all know that the
9b
>turbos can only sustain 0.75 (approx) boost to redline, and to our
6000 rpm
>hp peak as well. It seems to me that perhaps (?) there is
something wrong
>with his car where there is detonation & retarded
timing at even 1.0 bar of
>boost, that is only fixed when the extra octane
racing fuel is added?
No, the 9b can hold better but they start to fall
off at around 4500 while
my 13g start to go down at 4800. The fallign curve
of boost depends on heat
and the initial boost as then bosot can be hold
longer. If one experience
overboost in the lower end, the higher end will be
better. But this is
dangerous because one could shift into higher gear at
6000 where then
overboost may appear in the danger area for knock above 4500
!!
No, there is nothing wrong with his car ... this is absolutely normal.
I
already had five different different 3S cars on the dyno and all showed
knock above 1.0 bar of boost. The timing started to be retarded at 1.05
bars what says that knock-sum was above 15 per second. This is not that
critical although no knock is what we want to see.
You are absolutely
right about the fix of the "problem" with racing fuel.
This increases octane
and the gas burns better what finally allows you to
increase boost. Also
fuel is increased to extra cool the combustion chanber
what wastes fuel and
power but even more reduces the danger of detonation.
Also please note
that a dyno may have around 5% difference between one and
a nother pull.
This makes some small hp gains seen on a second pull
questionable. Also to
determine if a car without knock sensor or datalogger
experiences
detonation, the car must be hold by the dyno under full load
where the peak
hp resides, like 6000. Then boost can be increased on the
controller until
the peak hp goes down, i.e. the timing gets retarded. Then
boost should be
taken back about 0.05 bars to make sure no knock appears.
With racing fuel,
the boost could be cranked up higher as the retard
appeared later. Check out
my sites udner
www.rtec.ch as I just added my
lates dyno sheets and corresponding datalogs.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:52:28
+0200
From: Robby <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Latest dyno page up !
>Hmm, still a fair amount of knock
occuring at not real high boost levels.
Well, for the fact that knock
usually starts at 1.00 bar and steady boost
was 1.14 bar at 5000rpm I was
expecting it.
> I suspect it is because you aren't flowing
air through the intercoolers.
There is a huge fan infront of the car but
I'd like to have two additional
ones for the intercoolers for
sure.
> They don't do anything if there isn't a lot of
ambient airflow over
> their surfaces, and are the main defense against
knock and detonation.
You are absolutely right and the water injection
had to do the most of the
work. Without WI knock starts before 1 bar of
boost.
> Any chance that at your next dyno session you
could measure the intake
> temps somewhere after the
intercoolers?
We did on earlier sessions and the temp before the TB arose
above 90°C
(69°C with WI). On the street I saw up to 72°C and down to 42°C
with WI at
1 bars of boost. It is fact that the discharge temps of the small
9b or 13g
are very high and I measured once a peak of 142°C in the rear
discharge
pipe where it connects to the softpipe (wire probe). The pipe
itselfs got
heated up to around 70°C. With the room temperature of the dyno
of around
25-30°C and the heated air from the fan, the dyno test shows a
behaviour I
call the worst case. But this tells me where the limits are and
I know that
I'm still on the safe side than driving in the danger
zone.
>I'd almost say that depriving the intercoolers air is a good
way to ruin a
>turbo motor in a hurry!
Sure, and this is why I
feel good having a datalogger on my knees with real
time data and prepared
to interrupt the dyno operator with his lead foot ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:37:24
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Oil Pressure Gauge / Sensor
Simon,
the oil pressure sensor for the
gauge is located on the front left side of
the engine right above the green
part of the left front half shaft.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Simon Jones" <
Team3S@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk>
To:
"3S Tech List" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 28, 2000 1:07 AM
Subject: Team3S: Oil Pressure Gauge /
Sensor
> Hi,
>
> My oil pressure gauge has stopped
working (seems to be co-incidental with
> changing the spark plugs).
I've found the wiring harness detailed in the
> manual, but can't find the
actual location of the sensor. Any ideas?
>
> Simon
Jones
> '94 GTO
>
> P.S. Yes there is oil in the
car!
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:36:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: shortblock
Hi John,
IMHO, if you control detonation
and keep the oil in good shape, the
1st gen 2-bolt main bearing caps (and
stock crank and rods) are more
than adequate up to 500 HP or so. If you plan
on adding 15Gs and
upping the boost a **lot**, then forged pistons are good
insurance. I
say, save your money for your kids' college fund (or better yet
that
used Viper in a few years) and rebuild your 2-bolt. Be sure to
have
it dynamically balanced properly to minimize wear on the bearings
and
bolts.
PS. I'm detonation-free with 15Gs and 550s upto 1.25 kg/cm2
(18 psi)
on pump gas, that's a pressure ratio of 2.5 here in
Colorado.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Monnin" <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
To:
<
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 27, 2000 9:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: shortblock
I am
looking for a 4-bolt main shortblock. M&S Recyling has
sold
new 4-bolt shortblocks on e-bay for $1250 and $1500 but they now
want
$2500 for one. This really irritates me because I called
them
2-weeks ago and was quoted $1750 or $1850 (I can’t remember
which).
Now I am looking for either a new 4-bolt main or a cheap
rebuildable
4-bolt main core. Since my wife is pregnant
with our second (due
on Dec 31) my car budget it shot and If I don’t
get it back together
before too long it may have to sit for another
year.
I noticed that Jeff Lucius has built a very beefy 2bolt main
block,
has anyone else had good luck with 2-bolts? I only plan on
making
intake and exhaust mods with a boost controller, am I safe with
stock
2-bolt main and cast pistons?
If anyone has a 4-bolt shortblock
for sale, or is looking for a good
2-bolt shortblock that just needs crank
and pistons: Please email
your home or work phone number and I will
call you.
Thanks again for all the info this list has given me.
My work email is
Jmonnin@utilimaster.comMy home
email is
Jkmonnin@altavista.comJohn
Monnin
1991 3000GT VR-4
Been down for 3
months
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:08:38
-0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Happiest Man Alive
I had previously sent this only to my
personal list, but it is time to
announce it to the world.
I was the
former happiest man alive before Aaron got his car. I picked up
my
first dream machine ('95 VR-4) on 06/15. I drove it for two
wonderful
days then had to leave it at the airport for three days. Upon
returning I
realized I had left our only key to the car in the rental car in
O'Hare.
I'm standing in front of a dream car and can't even drive it
now. I later
had two keys cut so we are never short
again.
Anyway, mine is also 100% stock and I plan to get used to it, let
the
warranty on the engine run out in a few months, and then run the
mods. I'll
be going to two gatherings this summer (Blue Ridge and
Midwest) and will
love to see the other cars, talk with other owners, and
just get into the
world of the 3000GT/Stealth cars.
Thanks to everyone
who helped answer my questions and offer their advice.
If anyone is stopping
by Pittsburgh, PA give me a shout (Aaron - where in PA
are
you?).
Darren Schilberg
mailto:dschilberg@freemarkets.com
<
mailto:dschilberg@freemarkets.com>
Had my baby up to 120 mph in 4th gear (about 5,000 rpm I think) and
still
wanting to find the upper limit. Roads are too short around here
though.
:-(
- -----Original Message-----
From: Zentelis none [
mailto:zentelis@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, June 27, 2000 7:38 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Happiest Man Alive
I just got back from Iowa and am a proud new
owner a red '94 R/T TT. The car
is absolutely incredible. Only 2 previous
owners who both took real good
care of it. It had a gearbox/clutch
replacement 10k miles ago and runs
perfectly. The nice part is, it's 100%
stock, so I'll be able to do air
filters, boost controllers, etc etc and
learn the car basically from the
ground up. I still have to get the title
transfered to PA, but after that
I'll have it detailed and touched up(paint
chips on the front from stones
and what-not) and get some pictures up
somewhere (not that everyone here
doesn't know what it looks like, I'm just
really proud of it :)
- -Aaron
'94 R/T TT (Gotta love
it!)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:21:37
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Latest dyno page up !
>> I suspect it is because you aren't
flowing air through the intercoolers.
> There is a huge fan infront of
the car but I'd like to have two additional
> ones for the intercoolers
for sure.
Yeah, I think that would help a lot and the dyno numbers should
improve as well.
>> They don't do anything if there isn't a lot of
ambient airflow over
>> their surfaces, and are the main defense
against knock and detonation.
> You are absolutely right and the water
injection had to do the most of the
> work. Without WI knock starts
before 1 bar of boost.
Hmmm... Does anyone have any data on how
much water injection can help in
controlling detonation? Can it extend
the boost level 2 psi? 4 psi? 10 psi?
I've heard various numbers
thrown out that it is "like running 120 octane fuel"
and such like that, but
has anyone with a datalogger and large injectors been
able to do some
experimenting?
> We did on earlier sessions and the temp before the TB
arose above 90°C
> (69°C with WI). On the street I saw up to 72°C and
down to 42°C with WI at
> 1 bars of boost. It is fact that the discharge
temps of the small 9b or 13g
> are very high and I measured once a peak
of 142°C in the rear discharge
> pipe where it connects to the softpipe
(wire probe). The pipe itselfs got
> heated up to around 70°C. With the
room temperature of the dyno of around
> 25-30°C and the heated air from
the fan, the dyno test shows a behaviour I
> call the worst case. But
this tells me where the limits are and I know that
> I'm still on the
safe side than driving in the danger zone.
Are you using the water
injection before the intercoolers as well as after?
A 21C decrease in temp
before it even gets into the motor is huge! 142 degrees
at the rear
pipe is a massive amount of heat! I suppose that's a result of
the
9b/13G being too far out of their efficiency island. That would
explain why
the 15G's feel so much stronger at the same boost levels - the
discharge temps
should be much lower and therefore the air density
higher. I didn't realize
that the temperature gain would be that
high... Wow!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#178
*********************