team3s
Tuesday, June 27
2000
Volume 01 : Number
177
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 26 Jun 2000 09:37:09 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Nitrous Questions
#1. There is a lot spoken about fuel flow but
I'm sure the Supra TT pump,
#Walbro or bigger Densos flow way enough for you.
BTW, you need to say
#20-25GPH @ 47psi as this is the fuel pressure in the
line and you probably
#are attaching to it for the additional fuel
spray.
All I know is that the NOS webiste says .1 GPH per additional HP @
5 psi.
Of course, it also says that I would need .1 GPH per total HP @ 5 psi
(If
I'm using one fuel pump for both nitrous and standard fuel flow)
How do I
translate this to our fuel pressures of 47 psi?
#2. I don't
know much about the internals but I was told by the Mitsu
#importer that they
must be different. This because in Europe the NA cars
#have never been
imported (no market for them) and the TT parts are not
#fitting them. I know
because on a car the belt slipped and other damage
#occured and all the parts
must have been orderd from japan.
That kinda makes sense if it was head
damage, as I know for sure the heads
are slightly different. My main
concern is bottom end - do we know anything
about that?
#3. For
nitrous activation you can install a progressive system that is
#controlled
by something like an injector controller (the MF2 from
#ERL I use
#for WI
can also control such apps)
Where can I find this? Who sells
it?
#4. For a good position I'd suppose the rear of the intake plenum
where you
#can spray directly into the runners (three nozzles required,
positioned
#between the runners. This is the usual place where
additional
#injectors are
#placed and should work for nitrous
too.
Would it be better to plumb one for each runner? With the
three, I know it
would be cheaper, but would there be problems with running
leaner in one
cyulinder than in the next?
#5. You can buy the small
MSD retarding box or the DIS-4 with two stage
#limiter. Bot allows you to
retard thw timing enough. I don't see a need to
#reduce the gap of the plugs
for now.
I think I will anyways, NOS recommends tightening down at least
.005 on the
plugs. I think factory are like .043 on the N/A's, maybe a
little smaller,
SO I think I'll go at least to .035...
#6. Not sure as
Nitrous lowers the EGT extremely too. If you run a 1st gen
#car you may catch
a datalogger where you can see the desired timing , fuel
#injection, O2
readings as well as ... knock. When my car ever runs
#again, I
#test the
MSD knock sensor as I just installed it ! There are also
#retard-systems with
a knock sensor on the marktet. This would provide you
#the most secure using
of nitrous.
Good points. I'll definitely keep that in mind...
Thanks Roger...
- -Cody
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 09:02:17
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Check Engine Light - Uh-Oh
This sounds similar to what I
experienced when I bought my car. It turned out
to be a broken hose
barb on the boost control solenoid (it is all plastic).
Thus the car was
overboosting and with normal spark plug gap the engine would
hesitate as
boost climbed beyound stock levels. The check engine light
probably
came on due to the unburnt fuel passing the O2 sensors.
You
need to check all your hoses that control the wastegates as described in
the
previous few "Overboost" posts. Also check out the boost control
solenoid -- it
is in the middle of the firewall across from the throttle
body, it is the
nearest to the center of the group of 4
soleonids.
Good luck,
Ken
>
> My car is due it's 60k
service. Just waiting for some parts. Took it for
> a 2.5 hour run to a
friends house and while there we went for a rip.
> Full on accel. in 2nd
up to redline and I noticed a severe lack of power
> although I was
getting full boost. Once I hit third I eased off the
> power and the Check
Engine light came on for 2 secs, went out and then
> came on for 2 secs
again. All gauges were reading correctly and it
> didn't come on again
until this morning on the drive back while doing a
> steady 60mph in 3rd
it came on for 1 sec and went out again. I'm leaving
> the car off the
road now until the service and hopefully the problem is
> minor and will
go away after the service and boost controller are fitted
> (setting it to
.9bar max).
>
> Good Points:
> Oil Pressure Perfect
>
Temp Perfect
> Oil on dipstick clean and full
> Coolant level
full
> Boost buildup smooth and up to 1bar then bleeding off smoothly
to
> .4-.6bar depending on gear
>
> Bad Points:
>
Accelerate and then let off throttle and the car is jerky while revs
>
drop
> Intake noise has gotten odd and screechy sounding and there is
a
> definite screech from what I assume is the BOV on throttle release
at
> 4500rpm
> Fuel cut coming in just over 1bar (previous owner has
removed boost
> controller but I have a new one ordered).
>
>
Anyone recognise anything in my description??
>
> thanks in
advance
> Gordon
> Dublin, Ireland
> 1993 Japanese Import
VR4
>
http://fly.to/mr.ie>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 09:17:47
-0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Overboost question
Robby wrote:
> >bigger turbos
were installed), we literally saw the boost gauge register 1.8
> >bar
of boost. WHICH IS PRETTY DANGEROUS with pump 92 oct. gas.
>
> I
think this is a typo, right ? 1.8 bar of boost is impossible with the
13g
> as the max is around 1.4 bar (I know... very well !!). Even with the
550cc
> Fuel cut would have been initated at 1.3bar as thsi is where they
would
> have been maxxed out for a long time. If you really have read this
amount
> of boost you have a problem with your gauge.
According to
Josh at TEC, abnormally high boost levels
can be possible due to an extremely
rich condition and/or
an extremely retarded timing condition.
Why? There is
so much fuel and/or the timing is so retarded that lots
of
fuel is leaving the cylinder, making its way into the turbine
housing,
igniting in the turbine housing and thus "boosting"
the turbine wheel
itself.
Julian's spark plugs indicated an ~extremely~ rich
condition,
abnormally rich for a car which at the time had the
stock
injectors and no fuel controller.
I also inspected Julian's old
turbos, and they showed signs
of massive carbon deposits as well as possible
detonation
within the turbine housing.
> >Could it be becos I
have a faulty ECU?
>
> No, why ?? It can do nothing to this
behaviour if the stock solenoid is out
> of way!
This problem may
have started for Julian (we are not totally
sure) when he installed a
California-spec MAF sensor, even
though his car is a non-California
VR4. He was replacing
his MAF because he had punched out all the
honeycombs
in his old one, thus leading to idling problems (which
explains
why he replaced so many other things related to vehicle
idle).
Another list member has said that replacing certain
components
on our cars (such as the ISC) can cause the ECU to short
out.
Even barring that, certain events (such as installing the wrong
part
for the car) can indeed cause damage to the ECU which
can lead to various
problems and not be reported by a check
engine light. I received
directions from Mike Murray on how
to jumper the ECU back to the factory
timing, and we're going
to try that next on Julian's car.
>
> Errin disagrees and points to the fact that we ran the car without
the
> >AVC-R on stock boost and I was still climbing to unsafe boost
levels. What
> >are your thoughts on this matter?
>
> Well,
what does "without" the BC mean ?? Have you already done the
> described
procedure with no luck ?
After I saw Julian's high boost situation,
verified with two separate
boost controllers, the FIRST thing I did was
remove his boost
controller from the system and plug the wastegate actuators
into
the Y-pipe. Of course, this should have caused the
wastegates
to open at about 5-6 psi, but the condition did not change.
It also
did not change when I plugged the system back into his stock
boost
solenoid. High boost persisted. At the time I suspected
that his
wastegates (or actuators) were bad, but now that he has
new turbos it rules
that out. If the problem is due to an extreme
rich condition and/or
extremely retarded timing, it is such that the
detonation in the turbine is
continuing to produce boost even with
the wastegates open.
However, I
think I'm going to reroute his boost gauge hoses or
add another boost gauge
to the mix.
> >Could this be an overly rich condition thus causing
severe timing
> >retardation?
>
> No, a super-rich
condition doesn't have an effect to the timing. A super
> lean would have
due to knock.
I'd been trying to explain to Julian that the rich
condition and
retarded timing might be going hand in hand, but not
necessarily
directly causing one another. I had been suspecting a
faulty
sensor (CPS, knock, O2), but Julian has remained convinced
by his
mechanic that these would all lead to other noticeable
symptoms. I say
that things aren't always so obvious.
> Boost over 1.4 bars and you
can go to the rebuilder directly ! No, 1.8 is
> simply not possible. I
have 13gs and they are only another compressor
I think Julian's engine
has survived this massive boost condition
(which is mostly in the lower-mid
rpms anyway) because it is
running extremely rich with retarded timing.
The causes for this
remain to be discovered.
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 11:34:16
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Overboost question
>>I'd have to disagree on the max boost
issue. I've had 9Bs peak at 1.6 bar
>>before. Of course
9Bs won't hold this amount of boost and I hit fuel cut
>>at the time,
but if the 9Bs can make more than 1.4 bar, then I think the
>>13G
should be able too.
> Guys, what the .... are you doing on that high
boost. These are boost
> spikes and fuel cut kicks in at 1.3 bar latest.
The discharge temperature
> is so high that the IC cannot do anything
that makes sense ! Of course the
> water injection helps but my
logger saw still high knock !!
Well, Curt is insane for even thinking
about letting his car see that high of a boost level on stock pistons, however I
agree that you can spike to very high levels around 3000 RPM to 4000 RPM on
stock turbos, however it isn't going to hold it long (and the turbo output temps
are going to be insanely high) and the probability of extreme knock and
detontation is very high.
I said:
>>Nope, boost control is
purely mechanical on these cars.
Roger said:
> Matt, this is
not fully correct. Although it is purly mechanical it is also
>
controlled by the ECU via the stock boost solenoid valve. This is why it
> should be removed out of the system !
True, the solenoid is part
of the equation, but if the hoses are hooked up correctly and are clear of
obstruction then the solenoid can only contribute about 2-3 psi of additional
boost. There's got to be a plugged hose or connector or something* like
that which is causing the problem.
I guess what I meant when I said the
boost control system is mechanical is that the wastegates are purely controlled
by air pressure and not directly by the ECU.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:30:28
+0200
From: "Robby/SOL" <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Overboost question
> According to Josh at TEC, abnormally high
boost levels
> can be possible due to an extremely rich condition
and/or
> an extremely retarded timing condition. Why? There
is
> so much fuel and/or the timing is so retarded that lots of
>
fuel is leaving the cylinder, making its way into the turbine
> housing,
igniting in the turbine housing and thus "boosting"
> the turbine wheel
itself.
This is extremely seldom and only on cars that have been driven
every hard
where the turbine hosuing of the turbo is gettign extremely hot
and then the
fuel may ignite. It is possible but I'm positive that thsi is
too far away
from the solution.
> This problem may have started for
Julian (we are not totally
> sure) when he installed a California-spec MAF
sensor, even
> though his car is a non-California VR4. He was
replacing
> his MAF because he had punched out all the honeycombs
>
in his old one, thus leading to idling problems (which explains
> why he
replaced so many other things related to vehicle idle).
No, the MAF is
the same only the maps for timing and fuel are different as
well as some have
EGR sensors and that stuff. I think it's correct to think
of this stuff when
all the others infront are solved and they are not.
Replacing a boost
controller with another is not the way I'd go besides of
the possibility that
something fries it :-)
> Another list member has said that replacing
certain components
> on our cars (such as the ISC) can cause the ECU to
short out.
Yes, possible if you connect them with the battery enabled and
ignition on.
> to open at about 5-6 psi, but the condition did not
change. It also
> did not change when I plugged the system back into
his stock
> boost solenoid. High boost persisted.
Does this
mean that you did not made the vacuum pump test as I tried to
describe. How
do you know if one hose is damaged or something in the hose
itselfs that
causes it blocked ?? IMHO, it's better to test the stuff
correctly and not to
trial and error on the street.
> At the time I suspected that his
wastegates (or actuators) were bad,
> but now that he has new turbos it
rules that out.
Yes, and the hoses ????
> If the problem is due
to an extreme rich condition and/or extremely
> retarded timing, it is
such that the detonation in the turbine is
> continuing to produce boost
even with the wastegates open.
Then, the igniting of the fuel would be
happen after the turbine as there is
where it want to go. The explosion would
not drive the turbine wheel that
much up to crazy 1.8 bars.
>
However, I think I'm going to reroute his boost gauge hoses or
> add
another boost gauge to the mix.
Make life easier and simply use a cheap
pump to make the hoses/actuator
test.
> I think Julian's engine has
survived this massive boost condition
> (which is mostly in the lower-mid
rpms anyway) because it is
> running extremely rich with retarded
timing. The causes for this
> remain to be discovered.
Well,
we don't know what gauge showed this amount of boost.
Again, ... what
fuel controller is used ???
Also, is the stock boost out of the road or what
? Is it plugged up or not
???
... and what about the list of mods that
would count ?
Report back how the pump test as I described in the
previous message worked
out (exactly follwo the procedure) and let's go for
the next step then.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 11:17:58
-0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SRS light
Hi All,
I just had some body work done,
and I have a question about the SRS
light.
It comes on when the car is
started, and then goes off in about 5
seconds.
Is this
normal?
Thanks,
JAT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 13:10:02
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
SRS light
Yes --- It runs an internal diagnostic then goes
out.
Jim
Berry
=======================================
> Hi
All,
> I just had some body work done, and I have a
question about the SRS
> light.
> It comes on when the car is
started, and then goes off in about 5
> seconds.
>
> Is this
normal?
>
> Thanks,
> JAT
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 08:53:57
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Stupid questions
A few stupid questions.
Antisieze
stuff:
I've had problems breaking off wheel studs (three last year) after
open
tracking, so on the advice of folks on this list I went out and bought
some
anti-sieze compound (at a billion dollars a tube), applied it to the
wheel
studs, and Eureka! It works!
Stupid question no. 1: Should
I put the stuff on EVERY time I change
wheels? If the studs are all silvery
from the last application, does that
mean the compound is still
working?
Stupid question no. 2: I ran about 75 laps at a
predominantly left-hand
track the other day, which of course puts all the
wear on the right front,
and three of the four wheels came off no problem.
The left front wheel
required Godzilla-like strength (i.e, standing on the
lug wrench) to break
the wheel nuts loose. What's happening here?
Why did the left front sieze
up and not the right front?
Pagid Blacks
(pads)
I don't know anybody who runs these pads, so I can't compare
notes. When I
first put them in, and ran them on the street, they
spewed black dust
everywhere. After the first track event, they stopped
spewing.
Stupid question no. 3: Is this normal? Do they just require a real
good
burn in? What is street driving going to do to these pads? Eat
them up?
Missing brake fluid
Two times now, I've gone to the track
with a full brake reservoir, and both
times I've gotten the big red BRAKE
indicator that means I'm low on fluid.
I can't find any trace of a leak
anywhere. I'm running Racer's Blue and
Motul, mixed together, and I have SS
lines.
Stupid question no. 4: Where can brake fluid go? Where
else should I be
looking?
I am seriously considering buying a set of
wheels (Milli Miglia Emotions)
and tires (Kuomo) from TireRack. They CLAIM
that I can use the wheels for
open tracking.
Stupid question no. 5:
Has anyone bought wheels from TireRack, used them
on a track, and bent them
up (or whatever happens to weak wheels)? What did
Tire Rack do? Stand behind
the wheels? Take it/them back? Replace them?
Stupid question no. 6: Can
Milli Miglia Emotions be used for open tracking
on a 3800 lb car? (I hope
they can, because my stock chromies are HEAVY,
and the Emotions are wide open
for better brake cooling).
Driving on race tires
I've been driving
back and forth to the Marshalltown go-kart track on my
Yoko 032R tires (60
miles each way), and I've heard people on the list talk
about driving as much
as 300 miles to events. But somebody said, "You can't
drive a race tire at
highway speeds! They will heat up, expand, and blow
out!" The dude was
an instructor, so I gotta lend some credence to this.
Stupid question no 7:
What does normal highway driving do to race tires?
Rich/94 Mitsubishi
3000GT VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 14:40:22
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Stupid questions
A few stupid questions.
Antisieze
stuff:
I've had problems breaking off wheel studs (three last year) after
open
tracking, so on the advice of folks on this list I went out and bought
some
anti-sieze compound (at a billion dollars a tube), applied it to the
wheel
studs, and Eureka! It works!
Stupid question no. 1: Should
I put the stuff on EVERY time I change
wheels? If the studs are all silvery
from the last application, does that
mean the compound is still working?
-
---
Yes, it never dries out..just wont seem "there" or "wet" after a
while..safe to
reapply.
Also take a box or something clean to place
lugnuts in while changing
tires..that stuff will pick up lots of grit off the
ground and your hands as you
handle the lugnuts..every now and again clean
the studs with a rag..and we
change our lugnuts about 2x a year..and hunting
down some deeper open lugnuts
now too.
Driving on race
tires
I've been driving back and forth to the Marshalltown go-kart track on
my
Yoko 032R tires (60 miles each way), and I've heard people on the list
talk
about driving as much as 300 miles to events. But somebody said, "You
can't
drive a race tire at highway speeds! They will heat up, expand,
and blow
out!" The dude was an instructor, so I gotta lend some credence to
this.
Stupid question no 7: What does normal highway driving do to race
tires?
- ---
You can drive that tire at speed..what you CANT do is
retain the properties of
the rubber when you drive em on the
street.
The more/longer they heat cycle from driving, the quicker the
rubber goes
useless. Wont be as sticky, the rubber will tend to shear
away and not
catch-grip/stretch-return..etc.
Hes full of CRAP..blow up
my ass. They'll run with less pressre on the highway
than on
course.
Ive also now negated ALL understeer in the car upgrading to 3/4"
spacers up
front..car was a WELL balanced fun-run on the course..first time
its ever felt
so natural at speed.
Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR4
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:28:20
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stupid questions
>Ive also now negated ALL understeer in
the car upgrading to 3/4" spacers up
>front..car was a WELL balanced
fun-run on the course..first time its ever
felt
>so natural at
speed.
Tell me again how you did that. As I recall, you run spacers to
line up the
front with the rear, or something like that, and you have longer
wheel
studs that you got from some shop in Omaha. More details please. How
can I
do that? Where do I get the parts? (I've looked for the longer wheel
studs,
but had no luck).
>
>Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:17:50
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Stupid questions
Call up:
http://www.rallydist.com/Talk to
Lou..tell him Jeff with the VR4 and Supra sent ya..he can get you
your
studs..he did ours.
And we spent $10/ea on 3/4" spacers we just
plant between the wheel and the hub.
I will however consider and investigate
the worthyness of adding 3/4" to the hat
of the wheel ITSELF..or get some
custom spacers that are hub-centric made.
Stock fitting, the car is .8"
narrower in front than rear..this spells
"understeer"..and lots of it.
Being so heavy in front not even an even track
felt "good" but with a front
track 1/2" wider in front really lets the car hook
evenly now..not even a
hard snap-back in the rear if you play with it some.
With the studs he
has, you could..if you wanted..go 3" wider per wheel...MUCH
longer studs, and
hold torque better too.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Monday, June 26, 2000 8:28 AM
To: Mohler, Jeff;
opentracking@topica.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Stupid questions
>Ive also now negated ALL understeer
in the car upgrading to 3/4" spacers up
>front..car was a WELL balanced
fun-run on the course..first time its ever
felt
>so natural at
speed.
Tell me again how you did that. As I recall, you run spacers to
line up the
front with the rear, or something like that, and you have longer
wheel
studs that you got from some shop in Omaha. More details please. How
can I
do that? Where do I get the parts? (I've looked for the longer wheel
studs,
but had no luck).
>
>Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 17:11:59
-0700
From: Jim Watkins <
jwatkins@mails.terayon.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stupid questions
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> Missing brake
fluid
>
> Two times now, I've gone to the track with a full brake
reservoir, and both
> times I've gotten the big red BRAKE indicator that
means I'm low on fluid.
> I can't find any trace of a leak anywhere. I'm
running Racer's Blue and
> Motul, mixed together, and I have SS
lines.
> Stupid question no. 4: Where can brake fluid go?
Where else should I be
> looking?
Rich, If you are chewing
through pads as a previous post indicated, the
pistons are having to push out
further and that means lower fluid levels in the
reservoir. You'll have
to have more fluid in the system when the pad linings
are
thin.
Jim
91 VR4/going out to get antiseize for open
tracking
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-
--------------BE47F51EED5BD924F48881E4--
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 17:16:39
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Stupid questions
Antisieze is a good idea on any car..not just a
track car.
Long are the days since tire shops understood that...
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Watkins [
mailto:jwatkins@mails.terayon.com]
Sent:
Monday, June 26, 2000 5:12 PM
To: Merritt
Cc:
opentracking@topica.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Stupid questions
> Missing brake fluid
>
>
Two times now, I've gone to the track with a full brake reservoir, and
both
> times I've gotten the big red BRAKE indicator that means I'm low on
fluid.
> I can't find any trace of a leak anywhere. I'm running Racer's
Blue and
> Motul, mixed together, and I have SS lines.
> Stupid
question no. 4: Where can brake fluid go? Where else should I
be
> looking?
Rich, If you are chewing through pads as a
previous post indicated, the
pistons are having to push out further and that
means lower fluid levels in the
reservoir. You'll have to have more
fluid in the system when the pad linings
are thin.
Jim
91 VR4/going
out to get antiseize for open tracking
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:19:24
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stupid questions
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
>
Ive also now negated ALL understeer in the car upgrading to 3/4" spacers
up
> front..car was a WELL balanced fun-run on the course..first time its
ever felt
> so natural at
speed.
==================================================
That
seems like a bunch --- do you have custom hub-centric spacers yet or are
you
using brand X with longer studs ???
PS. I ran across this outfit some
time ago but had no need to call them.
sounds
like they may make custom adapters.
http://www.wheeladapter.com/
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:23:14
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Stupid questions
"brand-X" for testing, but its worked well
enough to have spacers custom made or
welded to the wheels..
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [
mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Monday,
June 26, 2000 6:19 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff;
merritt@cedar-rapids.net;
opentracking@topica.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Stupid questions
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
>
Ive also now negated ALL understeer in the car upgrading to 3/4" spacers
up
> front..car was a WELL balanced fun-run on the course..first time its
ever felt
> so natural at
speed.
==================================================
That
seems like a bunch --- do you have custom hub-centric spacers yet or are
you
using brand X with longer studs ???
PS. I ran across this outfit some
time ago but had no need to call them.
sounds
like they may make custom adapters.
http://www.wheeladapter.com/
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:35:39
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick right turn...
I installed
the HK$ high flow pump today and finally got the AFC working and
then went
for a test spin. The fuel level was a tick under 1/4 and when I
made a
quick right turn at an intersection (roughly 20mph, maybe a little
less), the
car stumbled (like it had no fuel perhaps and wanted to stall)
for about a
second until I got out of the turn. It was fine when I was
going
straight again. Could this be a fuel pickup problem? Perhaps I was
a
little careless in installing the new fuel pump? This is the only
thing
that I can think of since the car never did this before and I've made
right
turns much faster than that and with less gas without a problem.
Oh, and
the problem was repeatable as I tried it at the next
intersection. I filled
up the tank and that seems to have solved the
problem for now, but I have a
feeling that when the tank gets lower again,
the problem will return. If I
screwed up installing the pump, what
might I have done to have caused this?
If this problem could be caused by
something else, please share your ideas.
=)
Thannks
again,
Chris
92 R/T TT (after 3 months of torture, the car runs
again...although somewhat
sickly)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:54:38
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick right
turn...
That happens to us anything under about 1/3rd tank in long hard
turns in autox..
Just use more gas..no tank issue. Probly with a
faster pump, you get more air
in the line quicker compared to a slower
pump.
I hate racing on anything less than 3/4 tank anyway, car becomes
funky in quick
transitions.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Chris Maxwell [
mailto:shmacker@home.com]
Sent: Monday,
June 26, 2000 6:36 PM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Installed high flow pump, car stumbled on quick
right
turn...
I installed the HK$ high flow pump today and finally
got the AFC working and
then went for a test spin. The fuel level was a
tick under 1/4 and when I
made a quick right turn at an intersection (roughly
20mph, maybe a little
less), the car stumbled (like it had no fuel perhaps
and wanted to stall)
for about a second until I got out of the turn. It
was fine when I was
going straight again. Could this be a fuel pickup
problem? Perhaps I was a
little careless in installing the new fuel
pump? This is the only thing
that I can think of since the car never
did this before and I've made right
turns much faster than that and with less
gas without a problem. Oh, and
the problem was repeatable as I tried it
at the next intersection. I filled
up the tank and that seems to have
solved the problem for now, but I have a
feeling that when the tank gets
lower again, the problem will return. If I
screwed up installing the
pump, what might I have done to have caused this?
If this problem could
be caused by something else, please share your ideas.
=)
Thannks
again,
Chris
92 R/T TT (after 3 months of torture, the car runs
again...although somewhat
sickly)
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:52:55
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Overboost question
So far, i havent heard anything bad about the
driveability of the car
(smoke, misfire, etc.) which leads me to believe it
still runs
fine......Drive on.....no, just kidding. I'm thinking the blow
off valve
might be leaking. The turbos will continue to build boost, because
the
wastgate "signal" is being recycled upstream.
Of course this
diagnosis assumes the engine runs fine.
W
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 23:13:06
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stupid questions
> Ive also now negated ALL understeer in the
car upgrading to 3/4" spacers up
> front..car was a WELL balanced fun-run
on the course..first time its ever felt
> so natural at speed.
Hmm,
so if I understand this right, the spacers fit between the wheel and the hat of
the brake rotor, slipping over the wheel studs? So you also gain 3/4"
clearance between the wheel and the brake calipers as well? If so, then
using the spacers should also open up a whole slew of aftermarket wheels for our
cars then too! I just looked at the rear brakes on my car and the stock
wheels clear with about 1/2" in the back and maybe like 1/16" in the front, so
hopefully "normal" wheels would fit the back without modification to preserve
the handling benefits of Jeff's spacer setup.
Hmmmmmmm...
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 21:16:51
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Stupid questions
Yes..you would get more brake clearance..but
with "things" to consider...
Your whole wheel comes out 3/4"..hows yer
fender clearance doing? *grin*
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [
mailto:MAJ@bigcharts.com]
Sent: Monday,
June 26, 2000 9:13 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Stupid questions
> Ive also now negated ALL understeer
in the car upgrading to 3/4" spacers up
> front..car was a WELL balanced
fun-run on the course..first time its ever felt
> so natural at
speed.
Hmm, so if I understand this right, the spacers fit between the
wheel and the
hat of the brake rotor, slipping over the wheel studs? So
you also gain 3/4"
clearance between the wheel and the brake calipers as
well? If so, then using
the spacers should also open up a whole slew of
aftermarket wheels for our cars
then too! I just looked at the rear
brakes on my car and the stock wheels clear
with about 1/2" in the back and
maybe like 1/16" in the front, so hopefully
"normal" wheels would fit the
back without modification to preserve the handling
benefits of Jeff's spacer
setup.
Hmmmmmmm...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 23:29:54
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Overboost question
> So far, i havent heard anything bad about
the driveability of the car
> (smoke, misfire, etc.) which leads me to
believe it still runs
> fine......Drive on.....no, just kidding. I'm
thinking the blow off valve
> might be leaking. The turbos will continue
to build boost, because the
> wastgate "signal" is being recycled
upstream.
Leaking BOV - been there, done that.
No, if the BOV
leaks then you will see less boost in the Y-pipe and intake manifold (which I
assume is where it is being measured - in the manifold after the throttle
body). The wastegate "signal" is whatever is present in the Y-pipe, so in
the event of a leaking BOV the turbos will attempt to hold your desired boost,
but will be working harder to achieve the same level of boost to make up for
what is being lost though the BOV. The fuel mixture will still be fine
since the air in the system is being recirculated and less "new" air is coming
in to be measured by the MAF sensor. What's happening here is the opposite
of that - the turbos are easily making plenty of boost (on stock turbos, I'd
consider anything at or beyond 1.3 bars to be plenty, if not excessive) which,
at least in my opinion, points squarely at some sort of wastegate or wastegate
signal line malfunction.
Roger's advice of using a hand pump with a
pressure gauge on it is the best advice so far since then you can make sure both
wastegates and the associated lines are functioning properly. Cap off the
line going to the boost control solenoid when doing the test (if you haven't
removed or capped this counter-productive line already) to get stable pressures
to see exactly when the wastegates both open. If only one or neither open,
then suspect a plugged hose somewhere.
Or, try my advice and just replace
the boost control system hoses, getting rid of the "H connector" and solenoid
hose completely, test to verify that the car produces 6-8 psi boost, then if it
does consider the problem solved and hook up the boost controller. Of
course, with all the hoses to the rear of the motor it is very difficult to hook
up the wastegate line to the rear turbo which makes Roger's diagnostic that much
more compelling since it could be the H connector or feed line from the Y-pipe
which is the problem.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:12:30
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stupid questions
>Rich, If you are chewing through
pads as a previous post indicated, the
>pistons are having to push out
further and that means lower fluid levels
in the
>reservoir.
You'll have to have more fluid in the system when the pad linings
>are
thin.
>
Nope, the Pagids wear like iron. That ain't it. Thanks,
tho.
Rich
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue Jun 27 08:18:04
2000
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Dyno
I have a 1994 TT with quite a few mods but here are the ones which
are responsible for the 443HP.
MSD ignition,VPC,HKS fuel pump, RC 560
injectors, G Force ECU,15G turbo's,ATR downpipe, Borla exhaust, Greddy BOV,
upgraded FPR, Alamo intercoolers,and custom pre-cat pipes(Thanks to BE
King). The temperature was 82 degrees, there was a large fan in front and
a seperate blower for the intercooler. Boost was set at
1.3 bar and I
was running pump gas. At the track I run race gas with a 50 shot of NOS
and 1.45 bar of boost so I am assuming based on the dyno results my
track HP is close to 500HP at the wheels. Regards
Charles
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#177
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