team3s
Monday, June 26
2000
Volume 01 : Number
176
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun Jun 25 10:22:06 2000
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Dyno
Altered Atmosphere now has their dyno up and running. I
managed 443HP at wheels.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 20:50:59
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Dyno
Please tell us your modification, without knowing your modifications
those
figures are of non interest.
/Mikael
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
StealthCT@aol.com>
>I managed 443HP
at wheels.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 15:01:22
EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: R-12 or R134A?
Hello, I have a '94 3000GT (DOHC). I recently
found out that my car may be
using the R-12 refigerant instead of
R-134A.
First of all, I just want to ask, whether or not it uses
R-12?
And second, if it does use R-12, then is it really worth changing
it to
R-134A? Also, I've never had experience changing refigerant before -
so will
I be able to change it myself with the aid of some simple
instructions or
will I have to take it to the dealer? How much does the
dealer charge for
this?
Thanks - *If possible, please send a copy
of your reply to my e-mail address*
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 00:31:45
+0200
From: "Robby/SOL" <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dyno
> Altered Atmosphere now has their dyno up and
running. I managed 443HP at
wheels.
Please scan the dyno sheet
and send it with your mods to my address. Also
what boost, what fuel (very
important). Also show us the boost curve. BTW,
the dynojets give the old SAE
values out and this does represent an engine
without alt, water pump and any
other accessoires.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 11:01:35
+1200
From: Kenneth Wells <
k.wells@morganbanks.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Air Flow Meter
Can anyone tell me what the difference between an
E5T05072 and a E5T06072
MAS sensor is?
Apparently they are both for the
VR-4 (The non-turbo ones end with a '1',
I'm told)
The reason I as, is
because I've had my MAS replaced, and they've fitted a
E5T06072 MAS, which
looks slightly different from the 5072 item I had
before... Can anyone
elaborate?
Thanks,
Kenneth Wells
'91 GTO TT
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:35:32
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 11.219 at 124 no NOS
> Anyway, with new RPS clutch making 4
passes in my 94 VR4, did a best of
> 11.219 @ 124.63 mph; best mph
125.10...nitrous not on car. This takes
> the 'quickest non-NOS run'
on the "Fastest List" away from Adam Weltz
> who is MIA...
Good
work Jack! I guess you've drawn the line in the sand for the DSM Shootout
a little early, eh? I wanna see some 10's out there from your car!
:-)
Where is this "Fastest List"? Is it on the 'net
somewhere?
The Split-Second ARC2-GP is working on my car now, thanks to
GT Pro's good advice on tuning it. I also figured out that (on my car at
least) the TPS sensor needs to be adjusted towards the upper end of the specs
(mine is at .800v) in order to align the fuel trim maps properly for good idling
and good off-idle mixture. So, the 550's and the fuel pump go in this week
and then I can go back to running real boost. I've been running 15psi with
water injection and the car makes a ton more power with that setup than it did
before at 18 psi.
15G's rock... Spoolup isn't much worse than
stock, and when the power comes on it comes on strong! Having top-end
power has really transformed the car into something special.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 17:53:41
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: 11.219 at 124 no NOS
I will soon be running on 720s on 15g's for
road racing..by December for
- -sure-....ARC2 as well.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [
mailto:MAJ@bigcharts.com]
Sent: Sunday,
June 25, 2000 5:36 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: 11.219 at 124 no
NOS
> Anyway, with new RPS clutch making 4 passes in my 94 VR4,
did a best of
> 11.219 @ 124.63 mph; best mph 125.10...nitrous not on
car. This takes
> the 'quickest non-NOS run' on the "Fastest List"
away from Adam Weltz
> who is MIA...
Good work Jack! I guess
you've drawn the line in the sand for the DSM Shootout
a little early,
eh? I wanna see some 10's out there from your car! :-)
Where
is this "Fastest List"? Is it on the 'net somewhere?
The
Split-Second ARC2-GP is working on my car now, thanks to GT Pro's good
advice
on tuning it. I also figured out that (on my car at least) the
TPS
sensor needs to be adjusted towards the upper end of the specs (mine is
at
.800v) in order to align the fuel trim maps properly for good idling and
good
off-idle mixture. So, the 550's and the fuel pump go in this week
and then I
can go back to running real boost. I've been running 15psi
with water injection
and the car makes a ton more power with that setup than
it did before at 18 psi.
15G's rock... Spoolup isn't much worse
than stock, and when the power comes on
it comes on strong! Having
top-end power has really transformed the car into
something special.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 18:45:27
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Car runs lean, Super AFC question
Well, after hooking up the nifty
Autometer A/F gauge, I determined that the
reason for my low rev hesitation
is because the car is running super lean.
I sort of thought that, but I
wanted to be sure. I guess the stock ECU
doesn't know how to handle the
new 355 turbos I put in. Anyways, I have a
Super AFC that I tried to
install to help richen the fuel mixture in the low
revs but when I connected
it and started the car, the car idled VERY low and
after 10
secs...stalled. Now I didn't reset the ECU after I installed the
AFC,
so that might be the problem, and it's resetting as I write this.
But
my question regards how to set up the AFC. If resetting the ECU
doesn't
work, how do I cure this problem? I'm guessing it's idling too
lean, and
thus needs more fuel? How do I richen up the fuel mixture for
idle? Can I?
This is the new style Super AFC.
On a side note, I
have a high flow HKS fuel pump and 720cc injectors sitting
on the table
waiting to be installed...but I wanted to break in the new
engine and make
sure it runs right before I put those suckers in.
Thanks,
Chris
92
R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 00:05:15
EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Update: R-12 or R-134A
Ok, guys, I just got done looking under my
hood and I found out (as Greg had
told me earlier) that my refigerant is in
fact already R-134A - so I guess
the carpoint website was wrong about '94
models using R-12.
Thanks everyone (especially Greg and John) for your
help!
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 09:18:16
+0200
From: Robby <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Car runs lean, Super AFC question
>I guess the stock ECU
doesn't know how to handle the new 355 turbos I put in.
Umpf, no, it
should be ok as the 355 are in the 15G area but have a larger
turbine
wheel.
>Now I didn't reset the ECU after I installed the
>AFC,
so that might be the problem, and it's resetting as I write this.
No,
this is no problem but I believe it was resetted as you've put the
turbos in
!
>But my question regards how to set up the AFC.
>This is the
new style Super AFC.
Well, you can by simply increasing the low end. But
the AFC is rpm related
and not load. The fuel map on our car is rpm and load
related and the later
cannot be changed. But with the turbos the AFC should
even be necessary as
load will be increased earlier. You have a large
display on the AFC and
increasing fuel for about 20% i nthe lower rpm range
shouldn't be a problem
at all. Even the old AFC has a 800rpm
knob.
>On a side note, I have a high flow HKS fuel pump and 720cc
injectors sitting
>on the table waiting to be installed...but I wanted to
break in the new
>engine and make sure it runs right before I put those
suckers in.
Well, then the S-AFC is of no use anymore as it will not
handle the air
flow signal well without any load compensation. You will
always run too
rich at part throttle and probably too lean at WOT. An AFC is
good from
maybe up to 550cc but even then with larger turbos it will not be
sufficient for our cars ! The only purpose is that you can use it in
conjuction with an ARC or VPC (that is not produced anymore !) for fine
tuning.
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 03:08:25
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Nitrous Questions.
Well, I know people usually come running to me
generally with questions
regarding Nitrous on their cars. I am merely a
novice, having very little
overall experience with it. I am fully aware
of all the dangers associated
with nitrous, and am prepared to face the
consequences - whether having a
thrown rod or spun bearing. Now, I have
some major questions regarding
nitrous, as I am looking to upgrade my Nitrous
system.
Currently I have the popular, easy to install NOS Dry Manifold
system for a
meager gain of 70 hp, or so they claim. I want more, as
does everyone
else... So, i will be upgrading to the direct port
system. Now, I have
some time to finish this as I am currently
reconstructiing my car
cosmetically anyways. I am looking for alot more
gain - somewhere in the
150 and up hp range. I'll start with 150 hp,
then try 200 hp... Maybe even
go to 250 hp. That would be roughly
double the current power output of the
engine. Is this even
possible? I highly believe it is. I have a really
good feeling at
least 200 hp is in reach as long as it's done properly.
I have e-mailed
NOS and await a return e-mail with more info from them,
while in the mean
time, I will pose some questions here.
1. The factory fuel pump in
the N/A's is not going to flow anywhere near
what I want to run in terms of
fuel flow. How much fuel will a Supra TT
pump flow? What are my
other options. I have considered upgrading the
current pump, or
possibly adding a second pump to be used only in
conjunction with the
Nitrous. Any opinions here? According to their
calculations, I
would need a fuel pump that would flow 20-25 GPH @ 5 psi.
2. How
much power can the N/A bottom end handle? From everything I can
tell,
the bottom ends are the same. I know my car ('93) has the famous
4-bolt
main. I also know from posts here that the factory cranks are
nitrided
in both the Twin turbo, and the N/A DOHC cars. Are they the same
part
number? If not, I wonder the differences? Factory rods are also
a
concern, again are there differences between the TT and DOHC N/A?
Pistons -
We N/A guys have higher compression ratios, so we have different
pistons -
but the question I pose is did Mitsu skimp on
ours???
3. Safety of running a Direct Port Nitrous system vs. the
Dry Manifold
system??? I will have it hooked the same way as the DM
system - only
activated at WOT, so that shouldn't be a problem... I
shouldn't have any
lean run problems as it supplies it's own
fuel...
4. Pointers on installing a Direct Port system - where in
the intake runner
to place the ports?
5. Ignition - what system
would work to retard the timing 5-10 degrees? I
think our igntion
system is very closely related, if not identical to the
turbos system, so as
long as I reduce the gap on the spark plugs to say .032
I should be
fine...
6. Any other hints? Will a EGT gauge do me any good,
or is nitrous too
short of an event for it to really show? What about
an A/F ratio gauge???
Thanks,
- -Cody
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 01:23:07
-0700
From: "Veilside GTO" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Overboost question
Errin and I have been working on this problem
for a long time. Please read
the following to understand the situation
better. Thanks.
My car is so called running amok. I have upgraded turbos
- 13G and just got
them installed recently. As a side note, this problem of
overboost has been
occuring even before the upgraded turbos were installed. I
have the upgraded
550cc injectors and the Supra Fuel pump in my 94 VR4. The
car idles ok. I am
running with the older gen AVC-R and Super
AFC.
Here is the problem: I set the boost on the Super AVC-R at 0.5
(can't go any
lower than that) and I floor the gas pedal on 2nd, 3rd, 4th and
higher gears
and my boost gauge shows that I am climbing way past the set
boost of 0.5
bar. In fact, the last time Errin and I were out with my car,
(before the
bigger turbos were installed), we literally saw the boost gauge
register 1.8
bar of boost. WHICH IS PRETTY DANGEROUS with pump 92 oct.
gas.
We disconnected the Super AVC-R and tried it again and the boost
still
climbed like there was no end in sight. It is as though the car has
come
alive!! We thought at first it was the wastegate on my stock 9Bs which
might
have been causing all this overboost. Hence, I replaced my stock turbos
to
the 13Gs. I just got my car back last Friday and again this problem
of
overboosting is continuing. There seems to be no end in sight and I have
to
be the one to limit the boost by letting off my gas pedal.
Could it
be becos I have a faulty ECU? If that were the case, wouldn't the
check
engine light appear? I have replaced my old MAF with a new MAF unit.
IAC, TPS
sensor were all replaced recently. Tune up is done on a regular
basis. Plugs
are currently gapped at .030. Could it be the Super AVC-R going
bad? Errin
disagrees and points to the fact that we ran the car without the
AVC-R on
stock boost and I was still climbing to unsafe boost levels. What
are your
thoughts on this matter?
My fear is that with these upgraded turbos,
running boost which is
uncontrollable might end up blowing my engine. Is
there anything we are
forgetting here>? I feel that the only conclusion to
this matter is to
replace either the ECU or the Super AVC-R.
Could
this be an overly rich condition thus causing severe timing
retardation?
Before my turbo upgrade, the plugs were getting fouled like
crazy. I would
for some reason be able to boost up to 1.8 bar and then it
would stutter and
sputter (timing retard?) and sometimes might give me a
massive fuel cut
(jerk) on higher gear like say 4th 5th or 6th. With the
turbo upgrade, I
don't really get all this reaction from the engine
anymore.....which also
scares the crap out of me as the boost is smoothly
climbing to levels beyond
imagination. Again, my boost is set at 0.5 but it
does not limit it at 0.5.
The boost keeps climbing like as though the Super
AVC-R does not
exist!
Please post your feedback if you know we have missed something.
:)
Thanks,
Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO
tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
gtovr4@postalzone.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 11:51:44
+0200
From: Robby <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Overboost question
>Here is the problem: I set the boost on
the Super AVC-R at 0.5 (can't go any
>lower than that) and I floor the gas
pedal on 2nd, 3rd, 4th and higher gears
>and my boost gauge shows that I
am climbing way past the set boost of 0.5
>bar. In fact, the last time
Errin and I were out with my car, (before the
For sure you guys know what
to do but I can only tell you what I would do
in your situation. My
experience is that often the installation people do
something wrong ... me
included. I just found out that the red silicon
hoses I once got came with
at least one cut in them. Of course this was
exactly in one of the BC lines
that go to the front WG. To find out if
everythign is ok, do the following
:
Disconnect the output of the AVC-R solenoid and attach a handpump with
release valve to the line where you can apply some pressure. You may also
use a T for a boost gauge to control where the WG start to open. Then apply
pressure and around 4 psi the WG should start to move. The front can be
viewed normally and for the rear use a mirror to check. Also, if the WG are
moving increase pressure and if they are engaged totally keep the pressure
in the line. If tehy WG do not move back you're fine, if not there is any
leak in the line for sure.
If any problem is fixed or no problem
found, connect now this hose directly
to the y-pipe nipple. When you now
drive the car, boost should never go
above 6-10 psi, depending on how hard
you accellerate. If it still does
...... it's impossible if everything has
been done right !
Of course, you have disconnected the stock boost
control solenoid since a
long time !
>bigger turbos were
installed), we literally saw the boost gauge register 1.8
>bar of boost.
WHICH IS PRETTY DANGEROUS with pump 92 oct. gas.
I think this is a typo,
right ? 1.8 bar of boost is impossible with the 13g
as the max is around 1.4
bar (I know... very well !!). Even with the 550cc
Fuel cut would have been
initated at 1.3bar as thsi is where they would
have been maxxed out for a
long time. If you really have read this amount
of boost you have a problem
with your gauge.
>Could it be becos I have a faulty ECU?
No,
why ?? It can do nothing to this behaviour if the stock solenoid is out
of
way !
>I have replaced my old MAF with a new MAF unit.IAC, TPS sensor
were all
>replaced recently.
Why this ???
>Could it be
the Super AVC-R going bad ?
You may consider to remove the
air-filter in the AFC-R lines as this
causes a slow reaction and it often
leaks as well (it's just too cheap !) I
never use it in my installations. If
the test I described works well then
go on and reconnect the AVC-R. If the
behaviour becomes strange again, the
unit, the solenoid or the boost sensor
is shot.
> Errin disagrees and points to the fact that we ran
the car without the
>AVC-R on stock boost and I was still climbing to
unsafe boost levels. What
>are your thoughts on this matter?
Well,
what does "without" the BC mean ?? Have you already done the
described
procedure with no luck ?
>My fear is that with these upgraded turbos,
running boost which is
>uncontrollable might end up blowing my
engine.
Yes, unfortunately very true !
> Is there
anything we are forgetting here>?
Not so far :)
>Could this
be an overly rich condition thus causing severe
timing
>retardation?
No, a super-rich condition doesn't have an
effect to the timing. A super
lean would have due to
knock.
>Before my turbo upgrade, the plugs were getting fouled
like
>crazy.
Just way too rich ! How do you control the injectors
?
> I would for some reason be able to boost up to 1.8 bar and
then it
>would stutter and sputter (timing retard?) and sometimes might
give me a
>massive fuel cut (jerk) on higher gear like say 4th 5th or
6th.
Boost over 1.4 bars and you can go to the rebuilder directly ! No,
1.8 is
simply not possible. I have 13gs and they are only another compressor
wheel
design for a better efficiency to keep the bosot a little longer alive
at
the top end. They are a minor upgrade and not able to deliver more than
1.4
bars of boost !!
>anymore.....which also scares the crap out
of me as the boost is smoothly
>climbing to levels beyond
imagination.
Well, for sure you run very rich to prevent detonation and
teh discharge
temp is lower as with the 9b, but fuel cut and hesitations are
comming back
as time goes... I know this very well :-/
Let us know
what the test I described showed to you.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 11:58:16
+0200
From: Robby <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Nitrous Questions
I'm sure Jack can you tell more on Nitrous but
IMHO, the most important
thing is also to make sure the proper amount of
fuel is delivered ! IMHO,
I'd say a 150hp is the max I'd go ... even this
sounds dangerous to me but
with the correct amount of fuel you should be ok.
I myself would be happy
with a safe 100hp shot on an NA just because
of the relatively high
compression.
1. There is a lot spoken about
fuel flow but I'm sure the Supra TT pump,
Walbro or bigger Densos flow way
enough for you. BTW, you need to say
20-25GPH @ 47psi as this is the fuel
pressure in the line and you probably
are attaching to it for the additional
fuel spray.
2. I don't know much about the internals but I was told by
the Mitsu
importer that they must be different. This because in Europe the
NA cars
have never been imported (no market for them) and the TT parts are
not
fitting them. I know because on a car the belt slipped and other damage
occured and all the parts must have been orderd from japan.
3. For
nitrous activation you can install a progressive system that is
controlled
by something like an injector controller (the MF2 from ERL I use
for WI can
also control such apps)
4. For a good position I'd suppose the rear of
the intake plenum where you
can spray directly into the runners (three
nozzles required, positioned
between the runners. This is the usual place
where additional injectors are
placed and should work for nitrous
too.
5. You can buy the small MSD retarding box or the DIS-4 with two
stage
limiter. Bot allows you to retard thw timing enough. I don't see a
need to
reduce the gap of the plugs for now.
6. Not sure as Nitrous
lowers the EGT extremely too. If you run a 1st gen
car you may catch a
datalogger where you can see the desired timing , fuel
injection, O2
readings as well as ... knock. When my car ever runs again, I
test the MSD
knock sensor as I just installed it ! There are also
retard-systems with a
knock sensor on the marktet. This would provide you
the most secure using of
nitrous.
Good luck,
Roger (lucky to have two turbos for power ...
don't like the bottle in the
trunk)
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 11:09:18
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Nitrous Questions
Just on that point. Wouldn't it be more
economical to upgrade the car to
a VR4 than to go to the expense and risk of
fitting nitro to a
non-turbo? Any figures I've seen for 1/4's etc seem to be
slower than
the VR4 anyway? I have no experience of the non-turbo (we never
got them
in ireland. only the vr4) but I would imagine that the price
difference
between the non and the vr4 is not enough to make the nitro all
that
good an option?
This isn't knocking the non-turbo or anyone that
likes the idea of nitro
by the way. Just curious as the price of cars in the
US is sooooo much
cheaper than here and the quantity of vr4's is sooooo much
higher I
would think it would be a better place to start and then you would
be
working from 300+bhp to start with for mods?
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ieRobby wrote:
>
> I'm sure Jack can you tell more on Nitrous but IMHO, the most
important
> thing is also to make sure the proper amount of fuel is
delivered ! IMHO,
> I'd say a 150hp is the max I'd go ... even this sounds
dangerous to me but
> with the correct amount of fuel you should be ok. I
myself would be happy
> with a safe 100hp shot on an NA just because
of the relatively high
> compression.
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 08:20:52
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Overboost question
> We disconnected the Super AVC-R and tried
it again and the boost still
> climbed like there was no end in sight. It
is as though the car has come
> alive!! We thought at first it was the
wastegate on my stock 9Bs which might
> have been causing all this
overboost. Hence, I replaced my stock turbos to
> the 13Gs. I just got my
car back last Friday and again this problem of
> overboosting is
continuing. There seems to be no end in sight and I have to
> be the one
to limit the boost by letting off my gas pedal.
You are right in
suspecting the wastegates, but you also need to look at the rest of the boost
control system. It is possible that you have a plugged hose, or the little
"H" connector in the wastegate lines has melted and sealed shut, not allowing
any signal to get to the wastegates.
Easiest way to troubleshoot this is
to run new hose with a standard Tee connector in it and just go straight from
the Y-pipe nipple direct to the inputs on the wastegate actuators. You
should get about 6psi of boost with this configuration. If that works
properly, then just splice your AVC-R into the new line that you've run...
Splice it somewhere before the Tee connector before the signal is split to the
two wastegate actuators. That should give you controllable
boost.
> Could it be becos I have a faulty ECU?
Nope, boost
control is purely mechanical on these cars.
> My fear is that with
these upgraded turbos, running boost which is
> uncontrollable might end
up blowing my engine.
Yup, correct fears on that... If you continue
running boost about 15 psi on pump gas with nothing to control detonation, it is
only a matter of when it blows, not if.
> Could this be an overly rich
condition thus causing severe timing
> retardation?
Nope...
Overly rich would make less power, and the boost control system should still
limit maximum boost as it normally would.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 08:45:53
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Overboost question
Hey Roger,
I'd have to disagree on
the max boost issue. I've had 9Bs peak at 1.6 bar
before. Of
course 9Bs won't hold this amount of boost and I hit fuel cut at
the time,
but if the 9Bs can make more than 1.4 bar, then I think the 13G
should be
able too.
Fuel cut is not a hard and fast number with a stock fuel
system. The
weatherman plays a big role in this. On a 95 degree
F, humid, summer day, I
could run 1.5 bar without hitting fuel cut, with WI
on a stock fuel system.
When its 35 degrees F, I will hit fuel cut
around 1.2 bar. Air temps also
play a role in peek boost. A
colder day makes your engine have more power,
therefore it will make your
turbos spike higher.
later,
Curt
FYI.... I'm trying to
speak in past tense, since my Stealth no longer
lives. :( It was
totalled last week in a one car accident.
http://www.geocities.com/cpgendron/crash1.jpg>From:
Robby <
robby@swissonline.ch>
>To:
"Veilside GTO" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>, <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Overboost question
>Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 11:51:44
+0200
>
>
>I think this is a typo, right ? 1.8 bar of
boost is impossible with the 13g
>as the max is around 1.4 bar (I know...
very well !!). Even with the 550cc
>Fuel cut would have been initated at
1.3bar as thsi is where they would
>have been maxxed out for a long time.
If you really have read this amount
>of boost you have a problem with your
gauge.
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:14:29
+0200
From: Robby <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Overboost question
> > Could it be becos I have a faulty
ECU?
>
>Nope, boost control is purely mechanical on these
cars.
Matt, this is not fully correct. Although it is purly mechanical it
is also
controlled by the ECU via the stock boost solenoid valve. This is
why it
should be removed out of the system !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:22:55
+0200
From: Robby <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Overboost question
>I'd have to disagree on the max boost
issue. I've had 9Bs peak at 1.6 bar
>before. Of course 9Bs
won't hold this amount of boost and I hit fuel cut
>at the time, but if
the 9Bs can make more than 1.4 bar, then I think the
>13G should be able
too.
Guys, what the .... are you doing on that high boost. These are
boost
spikes and fuel cut kicks in at 1.3 bar latest. The discharge
temperature
is so high that the IC cannot do anything that makes sense
! Of course the
water injection helps but my logger saw still high
knock !!
>FYI.... I'm trying to speak in past tense, since my
Stealth no longer
>lives. :( It was totalled last week in a one car
accident.
>
http://www.geocities.com/cpgendron/crash1.jpgHoly
s%ht, I'm really sorry to hear (and see that) !!! Hope everbody coudl
get
out of the car uninsured !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#176
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