team3s
Friday, June 23
2000
Volume 01 : Number
174
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Jun 2000 01:48:32 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Tires and clutches (was Sumitomo tires?)
I think most people
would disagree. ALL my best runs were made with launches that
started
with moderate wheel spin, just enough so the car doesn't bog when it
hooks.
I'd also rather be replacing tires more often then replacing clutches
more often. I
think it's a little easier to control wheel spin than
clutch slip too, and too much
tire spinning isn't going to glaze your tires
and put a damper on your race day.
There were several reasons I chose the CF,
probably the biggest was that Mike from
AAM had quite a few miles on his CF
and much more HP than I. Of course, I don't
think he leaves the line
like I try to. There were also the issues of smooth
engagement, pedal
effort, availability, problems with the RPS Turbo Carbon, lack of
many other
choices, the Centerforce name, etc. I would be willing to accept
some
minor clutch slipping ocasionally, but 95% of the time, my tires will
not spin
whatsoever and I've had to feather the throttle to get the clutch to
bite a couple
times. This is not acceptable, in my opinion, for a $500+
high performance clutch,
not to mention the fact that a whole new clutch
assembly has to be purchased when
they wear out. I've got 8k miles on
my CF and it actually slipped in 4th gear on me
the other day while
accelerating lightly.
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
wrote:
> Yes..isnt that a good thing tho!!
>
> The clutch
needs to be the weak point in the car..wheelspin loses time and
> wastes
-valuable- off the line momentum.
>
> And..Ive always been of the
opinion that the CFDF _is_ junk..they are on Supras.
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Barnhart [
mailto:phnxgld@erols.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, June 22, 2000 3:31 PM
> To: Mohler, Jeff
> Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sumitomo tires?
>
> I certainly don't profess
to be a world class driver, but I know my car
> pretty well and it's a
problem when the tires WON'T spin. Instead, the
> clutch
slips. I don't dump the clutch any longer, WAY too much traction
to
> try that, but it's a quick slip, one that would all but roast my
Pzeros.
> I'm lucky if it spins enough not to bog when it finally hooks,
when it does
> it's usually a cool night. Besides, if the DF
Centerforce can't cope with
> 400-420 hp, then it's junk in my
opinion. I'm planning on running road
> courses every now and then,
I'm only about 1.5 hrs from Summit Point, but I
> need to get the new
(factory) struts and Porterfield brakes on first.
>
> Jason
>
12.82 at 109.40 with a 1.92 60' (first race day with new clutch and
Pzeros)
> 114k miles.
> 13.36 at 101.5 with 88k miles and a Weapon-R
filter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
> Cc:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 11:42 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Sumitomo
tires?
>
> > Then you have a driver education issue..
>
>
> > Dont push it so hard...thats still a good clutch.
>
>
> > Personally ive tired of the straight-line stuff in the VR4,
and have moved
> it to
> > open course work..which I would
suggest all of you do at least once
> *grin*.
> >
> >
1320' use is just pretty darn abusive on our cars..I'll keep the Supra
for
> the
> > 1/4mi stuff, lot more durable.
>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 00:43:36
-0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Siphoning Gas
Has anyone been able to succesfully siphon
fuel
from their fuel tank using the fuel filler?
I tried to on mine, but I was
not able to get
the hose to go far enough to reach the fuel.
The hose
seems to bump up against some
sort of barrier.
Thanks in
advance,
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 06:47:00
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Tires and clutches (was Sumitomo tires?)
Gotta add my two
cents...I have had three CF DF clutches, (buying my fourth next week!), and I
have never had any problems with it. Of course, I am not sure what power I am
making, but check my signature line for details regarding my set up.
I
have had ~30k miles per clutch in the worst case, and I can live with that kind
of clutch life. On occasion I have been known to drop the clutch on multiple
passes, and have yet to have the CF ever slip on me, unless the clutch was
nearing the end of its life.
I suppose it all depends on who you talk
to...I have somewhat aggresive driving habits, but I still think the CF DF
clutch is the best I've owned.
Regards,
Dan Jett
94 Stealth
TT
CF DF clutch, K/N FIPK, Polished Y Pipe, Greddy type S BOV, Greddy
Exhaust, Magnecore KVR 8.5's w/ NGK's @ .040", 18" SSR Integral A1 wheels, w/
Nitto NT555 exterme ZR's
>>> Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com> - 6/22/00 10:48 PM
>>>
There were several reasons I chose the CF, probably
the biggest was that Mike from
AAM had quite a few miles on his CF and much
more HP than I. Of course, I don't
think he leaves the line like I try
to. There were also the issues of smooth
engagement, pedal effort,
availability, problems with the RPS Turbo Carbon, lack of
many other choices,
the Centerforce name, etc. I would be willing to accept some
minor
clutch slipping ocasionally, but 95% of the time, my tires will not
spin
whatsoever and I've had to feather the throttle to get the clutch to
bite a couple
times. This is not acceptable, in my opinion, for a $500+
high performance clutch,
not to mention the fact that a whole new clutch
assembly has to be purchased when
they wear out. I've got 8k miles on
my CF and it actually slipped in 4th gear on me
the other day while
accelerating lightly.
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
wrote:
>
> And..Ive always been of the opinion that the CFDF
_is_ junk..they are on
Supras.
>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 08:58:50
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Siphoning Gas
> Has anyone been able to succesfully
siphon
> fuel from their fuel tank using the fuel filler?
The
easiest way to transfer fuel out of a 3/S (or pretty much any fuel injected car)
is to connect a hose onto the fuel pressure regulator return line and let the
motor idle. It'll pump it out in a nice controlled flow into whatever
container you are using (or another car, if you so choose). The line on
the FPR is pretty easily accessible as well. If you don't want to start
the car with this setup, you can feed battery power into the fuel pump test
connector also. It won't affect fuel going to the injectors at all, as you
are just taking the excess that would normally go back to the fuel
tank.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 10:20:20
-0400
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For sale-set of new Vr-4 turbos
Set of brand new (in the
box....literally) Mitsubishi 9b turbos. These
were special
ordered for my 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T turbo. From what I
gather,
they will fit any twin turbo vr-4 from 94-99.
*Best offer takes
em.*
located in Florida
Contact
rick@ceo-consulting.com***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 10:33:35
EDT
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
For sale-set of new Vr-4 turbos
I also have a set of stock VR4 turbos
that have 8000 miles on them off of a
'99. If someone buys his and
there's interest from other people, let me know.
Josh
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 10:37:27
EDT
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
For sale-set of new Vr-4 turbos
BTW, these turbos will only be
available after he sells his. I don't want
to step on any toes.
;-)
Josh
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:02:57
-0400 (EDT)
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S: RE:
Thanks for 60K help
Hello Team,
I wanted to thank everyone that
responded back to my e-mail regarding the
60K service. Thanks to Ken
Middaugh, Rich/old pop, and Josh from
Conicelli Mitsubishi. Everybody
was very helpful in answering my
questions.
I also found the author of
the 60K Service page whose parts I used. It
was made by Rich LeRoy and
his page can be found at
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/60k.htm
. Thanks Rich. It gave me a good
starting point.
One last
question:
Can I set the spark plugs to .31 even though I dont plan on
adding the
electronic boost controller until 1-2 months from now? What
is the best
distance setting?
Mike.
94 Pearl Yellow TT
93 Red
Stealth, 5 sp
Detroit Metro Area
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 08:36:49
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: What Wheels?
Yes..I never bent the stockers..*grin*
But
the stockers in high-speed racing really hurt performance too, thier
mass
being so great doesnt 'give' much when there are bumps/valleys in a
road, plus
add many many tons of energy to what you have to slow down with
your brakes too.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [
mailto:MAJ@bigcharts.com]
Sent: Thursday,
June 22, 2000 6:55 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: What Wheels?
> No..they wont touch em..you
"raced" *grin*
> And funny compound wheels like OZ..wheel
straigtening places wont touch
either.
So you can't race the OZ
"Racing" wheels? Nice...
I suppose I'll want to find some lighter,
stronger wheels at some point but for
now the stock 17" chrome wheels are
okay for my needs. They seem very* heavy
though. Less mass on the
wheels would probably make acceleration and braking
easier on the car.
I have a suspicion that one of them might be slightly bent
though as I get
some wheel jiggle when turning that alignment hasn't solved.
I'm hoping that
it could actually be unevenly worn tires (worn from hard
autocrossing) that
is causing it and that a set of new tires might fix it back
up.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 12:44:33
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start
car...
Errin and Roger gave some really good pointers, I just have to
butt in and
put my own 2 cents on the table :)
One thing that I like
to do (especially these damn "interference" engines),
is to put a 1/2"
ratchet and extension into the crank pulley, and turn it
over BY HAND
completely, about 3-4 times.
If I can't turn it by hand, and valves or an
obstruction (Rogers tools? :)
is in the cylinder or head, using the starter
will ruin your week really
quick, and worse, if the car turns
on!
There is a fuse you can pull in that box in the engine compartment (I
had
to), and this will let the engine crank, but the spark plugs (and
more
importantly, the coils) will not activate. Check your manual for
the
location of this fuse, it's not a blade type, it's larger. This fuse
also
turns off your injectors, or fuel pump, so it won't flood the engine
(and
could wash away what little lube you have from new engine
assy).
Oil pump is mechanical, so if the engine is turning, the pump is
too. I'm
gonna go through all this again, on my new talon motor... not
looking
forward! It's like building an RC airplane, and not wanting to fly
it,
because you spent too much time and money making it :)
Don't be
surprised to hear the lifters "clacking" for a while... It can be
VERY
loud... this won't go away with just idling your car, oil pressure
needs to
build up for them to work properly, halfway around the block will
cure this
:). Don't rev much more than 4000rpm's for a while though. I wish
you
luck!
Vineet Singh - big ass paperweight engine shortblock... for
now.
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 12:56:43
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Prices for 60k tuneup?! & Idler
pulley
"$582.48 all the above parts except for the
Platinum NKG plugs >>
$391.79 is my total (Conicelli) without
plugs and $447.23 with the plugs."
The latter is Josh @ Conicelli's
total... wow! And the Dodge dealer was
almost 2x Josh's price! If I need
parts, I would wholly recommend parts from
Conicelli Mitsubishi. I don't work
for them, but I know what I know!
I would replace both idler pulleys,
mine looked like crap after 80k miles,
so 60 isn't that far back :). The new
parts you get, might have slight
design changes (improvements), but since no
one tells you this, make sure
you don't put any on backwards like I did, and
almost burn up a new belt
(only the AC/ALT one, but still!)
Vineet
Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 13:14:19
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: What wheels
"I suppose I'll want to find some lighter,
stronger wheels at some point but
for now the stock 17" chrome wheels are
okay for my needs. They seem very*
heavy though. Less mass on the
wheels would probably make acceleration and
braking easier on the car.
"
Everything you said is CORRECT. I have semi-ugly, 17x9.? BBS 3piece
wheels
on my car, each are around 17lbs or less. Driving my car, vs my
friends same
year 92 3000gtvr4 with chrome factory 17" rims, is just crazy
how much
difference there is. Not in a straight line and cruising, but every
other
thing you do in the car you will notice these things,
lighter
steering feel (almost too light for my liking)
"stiffer" suspension (my
opinion, dunno if it's true, or that is the correct
term)
bumpier (but
enjoyable :) ride
sharp turns feel much more "controlled" as if you were in a
DSM or something
Acceleration for the same boost setting is a bit faster, and
rev's don't
need to be
so high when launching (hey, I was teaching him
:)
Overall, the car just feels like it's lost like 2-300lbs (similar to
the
difference you feel when you have a lot of shi+ in the back, or two
big
passengers, and then they leave :)
I would say, get the lightest,
but strongest wheels you can ... AFFORD.
These bastards aren't cheap, I was
told when NEW, they were near $500 each.
Stock 3000GT SL wheels weigh in at
25lbs, and those are just concrete filled
16" rims... I would guess a chrome
17 or 18 stock wheel would be near
28-30lbs!
I also think that lighter
wheels will increase the longevity of your
suspension , bushings and steering
assy, so maybe that 600$ you save for
generic wheels... you really don't!
:)
My dad had a saying,
Buy something cheap,
Cry all the
time...
Buy something expensive,
You cry only once! (when you see your
credit card statement! - ED note)
Vineet Singh - doesn't.. no, CAN'T
always follow his dad's advice! :)
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:25:40
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ignition Timing
Quick question(s):
The ignition timing
adjustment connector - the brown one by the battery that
you ground to set
the timing to the "basic ignition timing" (about 5 degrees
BTDC) - it
prevents the engine from adjusting (advancing or retarding) the
timing so you
can measure it, right?
Can you drive the car with that terminal
grounded?
If so, will it hold the ignition timing at 5 degrees
BTDC?
Again, if so, is there any harm in driving the car around the block
with the
timing set to the basic ignition timing (other than
less-than-optimized
power and fuel economy)?
The reason:
I'm trying to figure out why my car is pinging (posted some
stuff last
week). I used the Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner cleaning
method Omar
talked about(thanks, Omar!), and my compression is basically ok
now.
Sooooo... it still pings, albeit much less so, and I'd like to verify
that
the timing is ok. Timing is ok at idle, when I can sit there with
a
timing light, but it doesn't ping at idle, only under heavy load. I
figure
if I can hold to timing to a conservative value (5 degrees BTDC), I
can see
if something is getting wacky with the timing when the engine is
under load
(which would be indicated by no pinging under load with timing set
to 5
degrees BTDC). Sound like a plan, or should I try something
else?
Thanks!
- --Erik
BTW, MCCC is some amazing stuff!!!
I couldn't believe the volume of crap I
siphoned and ejected (with starter)
from the cylinders! More on that
process next week when I have some
time to write up some details.
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 71,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), Mobil 1 10W30 Synth., OEM oil
filter
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
67,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 14:29:38
EDT
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Wheels
I do not mean to be rude
here, however, I did not receive a cost estimate
for the repair of the
wheel.
I asked for an estimate for the repair for the curb damage (about a 1"
scratch) which I did not receive. If the cost was $100 for the repair,
I
would not have agreed to the repair.
Brian from ArrowTire agreed to
pay for return shipping (attached email),
which is fine by me.
I paid
over $800 for this set of wheels with a 1 year warranty on the
chroming.
Moreover, I know that I have sent some business your way
via the online
motoring enthusiasts groups to which I belong, based upon the
quality of
your product and the professional manner in which you conducted
yourselves.
It would be unfortunate to tarnish this reputation so
quickly.
Thank you for your time.
Regards,
Dennis
Bretton
>
>ok then I will charge you for the 1 wheel to get
replated that was curbed
>and that is 100.00 which sounds better this deal
or the one I emailed you
>earlier?
> >
> > Hello
Robert,
> >
> > I believe that I had dealt
with Brian on this issue before.
> > Below is a copy of the email he
sent to me. In it he states that you
>will
> > cover the
return shipping costs.
> > Could you please clarify this
matter?
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> >
Regards,
> > Dennis
> >
> >
>
> >
> > >they are at the platers he is re-doing them right now
if you will just
> > >cover
> > >the shipping
>
> >I will not charge you for the plating. about $70.00 thanks,
Robert
> >
> > begin message..
> >
> > I
don't know how long it has been since they were plated but they have a
>1
> > year warranty so as long as they are with in that time
frame no problem.
>the
> > only problem I see is the pic 4 &
9 that have curb rash that might be ?
>able
> > send the wheels
so we can get it taken care of you pay shipping here I
>will
> >
pay to get them back to you.
> > >
> > >Hello
Brian,
> > >
> > > I have attached
some pictures. This is message 4 of 4.
> > >
> >
>Regards,
> > > Dennis
> > >
>
> > > >Hello Dennis, I believe I do remember you, Dennis
Bretton? Is that
> > correct?
> > > >My apologies if I
am wrong. I am not sure what you mean by "rust"
> > aluminum
>
> > >can corrode but it is more of a white flaky powdery kinda of
stuff.
>The
> > > >peeling is another story, that is fully
warranted as long as there is
>no
> > > >contact damage. Go
ahead and ship the wheels to me and I will take it
> > from
>
> > >there. Please be sure to include all your contact information,
Phone
>Hello Brian,
> > > > >
> > > >
> Last summer (I believe mid-July) I purchased a set of 4
>rechromed
> > > > > Mitsubishi 17" VR-4 wheels from
you via an on-line/telephone
> > transaction
> > >
>(if
> > > > > you recall, I had asked about shipping them
in 2 sets of 2 for
>reasons
> > > >of
> > >
> > transaction security).
> > > > >
> > >
> > This weekend I pulled the wheels out of storage to put on,
and
>noticed
> > > >that
> > > > > there
seems to be quite a bit of rust forming on the inside of the
> >
wheel
> > > > > spokes, and the chrome along the outer lip is
peeling.
> > > > >
> > > > > You had stated
that the chroming process comes with a 1 year
>warranty.
> > >
> >
> > > > > I would like to know if you will honor
this warranty for these
>wheels,
> > > >as
> >
> >it
> > > > > seems they have not lasted.
> >
> > >
> > > > > If you like, I can email pictures of
the wheels.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thank you
for your time and assistance. I look forward to hearing
> >
from
> > > >you.
> > > > >
> > >
> > Regards,
> > > > >
Dennis
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 21:42:47
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Where is the pressure sensor wire on Stealth?
I was trying to install my
Super AFC on my 92 Stealth TT today and I got up
to the point where I'm
supposed to cut the pressure sensor wire...but it
wasn't were it was supposed
to be on the wiring diagram! The spot on the
diagram that is supposed
to have the pressure sensor wire was blank. I'm
wondering if this is a
characteristic of only the Stealths. I'm pretty sure
that I read the
diagram right. Does anyone know what color the wire is
supposed to be,
along with any stripes that might be on
it?
Thanks,
Chris
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 00:48:05
EDT
From:
Shivy13@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Turbo's on a base model???
This may be the dumbest question anyone has heard for all
I know but have
just been wondering if there is any way to put turbo/turbos
on a base GT? If
there is or isn't could someone please give me some
insight ....I've been to
embarrassed to ask. Thanks in
advance!
Michael
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 01:38:20
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo's on a base model???
Yes you can! Do you really
want to? Cost will run in the neighborhood of
3500-5500 to do it
"Right"
It would be cheaper and better to sell your base model and
upgrade to a VR4.
You get a stronger driveline, better traction, brakes,
ability to modify
etc... and come out to about the same price.
The
short list of what you will need:
Plumbing, inlet and
outlet.
Intercoolers
Motor rebuild with turbo pistons
ECU
Wiring
harness
Oil pan
Most of the engine electronics
A clutch that will hold
the extra power
Intake manifold
Throttle body
Exhaust
manifolds
Turbos
Oil lines
Downpipe
Exhaust
O2 housings
150
misc nuts & bolts
some sort of interface to adapt the turbo ECU to
the base car.
I'm sure you can have a 3-5psi system built for the
car, but for the 30-40hp
gain the cost will far outweigh the gains.
If you
are serious, I have quite a few of the parts you would want/need to
upgrade
to a turbo engine. Including a new shortblock.
Brad
Check out my
home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
Shivy13@aol.comSent: Friday,
June 23, 2000 11:48 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Turbo's on a base model???
This may be the
dumbest question anyone has heard for all I know but
have
just been
wondering if there is any way to put turbo/turbos on a base GT?
If
there
is or isn't could someone please give me some insight ....I've been
to
embarrassed to ask. Thanks in
advance!
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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#174
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