team3s
Thursday, June 22
2000
Volume 01 : Number
172
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:28:54 -0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK
Try Summit Racing. www.summitracing.com
They had the best
price on mine for a VR-4.
(and no, I'm not associated with summit
racing. I'm at Summit
Microelectronics)
"Dale T. Kroetz"
wrote:
> I'm new to this list. Could someone tell the best/cheapest
place to buy
> a K&N FIPK for a 92 SL?
>
>
--
>
> Dale T. Kroetz
> kroetz@mvn.net
>
> ***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:32:22
-0700
From: Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com
Subject:
Cracked Porterfields - Team3S: [Admin]: Back..
:The expected
news:
:
:The porterfield CD rotors, cracked at the hub after only that few
laps.
:Will be using cryo'd stockers next time around IMHO..unless
:Brad/Merritt
:has another rotor suggestion I can use with the Big
Reds.
He forgot that 'the wife' had the car out for two complete half
hour sessions in
the morning... approx 90 miles worth of hard driving if the
odometer is to be
believed.
Nice thing was... neither of us felt the
breaks even beginning to fade... it was
wonderful to have that sort of
stopping power!
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:28:18
CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Borla exhaust for $398 (off topic)
Hey everyone,
I don't
really like to solicit on the Team 3S list, but this is such a good
buy, I
just had too. I just discovered that CarParts is now selling the
Borla
TT exhaust for $530. And with my 25% off link, you can get it for
$398!! That is the cheapest I have ever seen the Borla exhaust
for.
To use the 25% off, go to my CarParts page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
and follow the directions for the 25%
off. You'll have to click on a
few links and jump back and forth between
browsers.
If you have any
questions, please send them to me privatly.
Thanks,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
________________________________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:26:09
-0100
From: "Jason Barnhart" <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need instructions for gutting pre-cats / ATR Downpipe
Nope, it's
all four. Kinda hard to step the rears out, or double fish-tail
a
launch if only the front are spinning. I'm sure I could pull out
some
pictures of small puffs of smoke from all four tires when the car still
only
had a filter for mods if you'd like.
Jason
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:38:01
-0100
From: "Jason Barnhart" <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sumitomo tires?
I'm also running Firehawk SZ50 EPs now in
275/40/17 (they sure don't look 3
centimeters wider than my Pzeros were) and
the traction is amazing. I could
light my Pzeros up pretty easily, even
from a roll in first on cold nights,
but I'm wondering if my clutch is going
to hold up as the Firehawks just
won't spin. I've noticed some minor
rubbing on the plastic inner fender,
when I get around to it I'll secure the
plastic so it doesn't move around so
much. They seem very quite and
track very well. The tread is really deep,
so I'd expect to get a lot
of life out of them.
Jason
94 VR4
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:12:14
-0600
From: "Manoj Prasad-Uswest" <mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Paint for wipers
I sanded the arms down a little bit. Put primer
from a spray can and then
put 'Plasti-kote trim Bumper and trim' paint on the
arm-(flat Black). Let
it dry for 48 hours and it looks great. I
have had it for about 4 months
and not a nick on the new
paint.
Rgds
Moe
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Scott F.
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 11:41 PM
To: 3000GT Verio
List; 3000gt Starnet list; 3000gt Team3s list
Subject: Team3S: Paint for
wipers
What is the paint used on the front and rear wiper arms
?
Lacquer or enamel ? What can I buy off the shelf to repaint worn
spots.
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_____________________________________________
NetZero - Defenders
of the Free World
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
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------------------------------
Date: 21 Jun 2000 15:33:09
-0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Milling pressure plate
Jim Berry:
I still don't understand
why you can not mill the mounting surface of your clutch down as much as you
mill down the friction surface. Assuming that you can't you can calculate
how much clutch pressure you will loose. Note: this calculation will NOT
work with a centerforce clutch.
Most steel springs are linear over a
short range. So the spring pressure will drop by aproximately the same
proportion that you increase the total throw. I would measure how far the
thoughout bearing has to move to disengage the clutch
For Example:
The
throw on my 91 vr-4 trans is roughly .5". removing .002" of material would
cause approximately (.002/.5 =.004) .4% reduction in clutch pressure which is
not too much to worry about. So your 650 PSI pressure plate would now only exert
647.4" Lbs.
P.S.
I have a stock clutch and pressure plate in my
garage if you want pictures email me privately before Friday because I only have
access to a digital camera on weekends.
John Monnin
91 3000GT VR4
jkmonnin@altavista.com
original
message below:
> Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 19:50:50 -0700
> From: "Jim
Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
>
Subject: Team3S: flywheel
>
> I'm looking for information on
resurfacing the flywheel on turbo cars.
> I finally got my used [ 5K miles
] Mueller lightweight flywheel and would
> like to touch up the surface
before installing it.
> The flywheel is stepped --- that is the pressure
plate is mounted on a
> different surface/level than the clutch plate. If
you remove material from
> the friction surface, you alter the spacing
between the flywheel friction
> surface and the pressure plate friction
surface. The removal of any
> material is going to reduce the overall
pressure exerted by the pressure
> plate.
> I'm sure the removal of
1 or 2 mills would have minimal a effect.
> What I don't know is, how much
can be removed without adversely
> affecting the overall operation of
clutch assembly ??
>
> Jim
Berry
_______________________________________________________________________
Why
pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
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_______________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 17:22:49
-0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question for Japanese owners
> >I was speaking (ok
mailing) with Brad Bedell the other day and he was
> >saying that he
thought that the Japanese VR4 GTOs were fitted with the
> >13G turbo as
standard.
"Robby (fs)" wrote:
> No, only the European
ones.
True. The stock Japanese GTO's have 9B turbos.
Japanese
performance companies such as GReddy
and HKS sell the 13G turbos as an
upgrade for the
Japanese GTO.
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:03:01
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Milling pressure plate
John
Thanks for your response and offer of
pictures ---- I already found some pics on
Bob Fontanas web site.
I wasn't
very clear in my original post --- the flywheel is a lightweight billet
aluminum
disk with a replaceable steel friction surface. If I mill the
pressure plate mounting
surface then when I replace the steel friction
surface I can't undo the milling of the
mounting surface.
I went ahead
today and had the friction surface dressed --- they had to remove .015"
which
doesn't sound like much, but the pressure plate preload was only .135".
The
removal of .015 is more than 10% of the preload, and I don't know how
that will
affect the pressure plate operation [ 3000# pressure plate ]. I'll
check with RPS
on Monday and see what they have to say
!!
Jim
Berry
===========================================================
John
Monnin wrote:
I still don't understand why you can not mill the mounting
surface of your clutch down as much as
you mill down the friction
surface. Assuming that you can't you can calculate how much
clutch
pressure you will loose. Note: this calculation will NOT work
with a centerforce clutch.
Most steel springs are linear over a short
range. So the spring pressure will drop by aproximately
the same proportion
that you increase the total throw. I would measure how far the thoughout
bearing
has to move to disengage the clutch
For Example:
The throw
on my 91 vr-4 trans is roughly .5". removing .002" of material would cause
approximately
(.002/.5 =.004) .4% reduction in clutch pressure which is not
too much to worry about. So your 650
PSI pressure plate would now only exert
647.4" Lbs.
P.S.
I have a stock clutch and pressure plate in my garage
if you want pictures email me privately before
Friday because I only have
access to a digital camera on weekends.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:27:08
-0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Bay Area motor installer (was: [Admin]: Back...)
Ive decided
to work with BRE racing.
Met with them today for about two
hours.
Dunno what it'll cost..dont care. I asked for a motor
capable of delivering
25psi for extended periods, and will actually only use
20-22 of it.
Should be no problems.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 22:13:57
-0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Off Topic: New 3000GT IRC server, Don't use the old one anymore
Hey guys,
sorry for the off topic post, but there is a new IRC server. We
are
switching to:
irc.mdsog.net
#vr-4
Unfortunately, not too many
people show up, but if we can get a little group
going there, it's a great
way to share information quickly and do a
little
socialization.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90
Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:17:38
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
sport springs install info needed
The information I've seen says to cut
the bump stop in half for a 1 1/2" drop ---
seems reasonable to
me.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
> I've
done some research and decided that the lowering spring install can be
> a
DIY project. The question I have regards the bump stops. I have not
come
> up with any info pertaining to the issue of trimming them. Do they
need to
> be trimmed and by how much? The springs I'm going to
install are the RS*R.
> Is there anything else I should be aware of before
attempting this project
> this weekend? Any and all advice is
appreciated.
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
Len
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 21:45:55
-0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start car...
Ok, I've put in
a new engine and bigger turbos and I'm going to start the
car tomorrow.
I've heard that I need to prime the engine with oil though.
How do I go about
doing this? The last thing I want to do is screw up this
part of the 3
month ordeal...
It was also pointed out in a letter I got with my turbos
from GT-PRO that I
need to "pre-lube" the center section of the turbos.
What kind of "lube" do
I use and where does it go exactly.
I'm
guessing that when I crank the car, it won't catch imediately because
there
is no fuel in the fuel rails. Is there a special procedure that
I
should follow to get fuel in the rails or do I just keep cranking until
it
catches?
Anything I missed? This is the first time I've
replaced an engine by myself
(or even had one replaced for that matter...) so
a few pointers would be
GREATLY appreciated.
=)
Thanks,
Chris
92 R/T TT (now with a 4-bolt main and 355
turbos)
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:11:05
+0200
From: "Robby (fs)" <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start car...
>It
was also pointed out in a letter I got with my turbos from GT-PRO that
I
>need to "pre-lube" the center section of the turbos. What kind of
"lube" do
>I use and where does it go exactly.
When I installed the
turbos I filled up the oil inlet before attaching the
tube. Of course it
didn't fill up but I turned the compressor wheel by the
fingers and let some
oil running in the inlet. I also sprayed some WD-40
into the air inlet and
blowed it out with compressed air so msot dirst
sitting in there is
removed.
>there is no fuel in the fuel rails. Is there a special
procedure that I
>should follow to get fuel in the rails or do I just keep
cranking until it
>catches?
The moment you turn the key to ignition
on, the fuel pump relay is
activated without the resistor in between for one
or two seconds and this
causes the fuel pressure built up. I highly
recommend a FP gauge to control
this (there is an adapter tool from Mitsu
that can be attached to the fuel
rails. The car may crank over some times as
there is dirt in the cylinders
and this and that (better locate all tools
before you start the car, hehe)
It's also a good idea just to crank the
engine over a few times without
ignition and fuel injection activated. Then
actived the other stuff and the
thing should start with a puff (rich start
condition). This is pretty
normal. Follow the procedure in the manual
regarding oil and water and your
fine (shut it off after a few seconds the
first time)
>Anything I missed? This is the first time I've
replaced an engine by myself
>(or even had one replaced for that
matter...) so a few pointers would be
>GREATLY appreciated.
=)
Make sure the belts are on perfectly and recheck all hoses again. Also
make
sure all wires are secured well and use some tie wraps if there are
some
that look too loose. Also, make sure the timign belt is well attached
with
the proper tourque as well as if the timing marks are at the correct
position.
Roger (only the timing belt is still off...)
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 03:24:42
-0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start
car...
Chris Maxwell wrote:
> Ok, I've put in a new engine and
bigger turbos and I'm going to start the
> car tomorrow. I've heard
that I need to prime the engine with oil though.
> How do I go about doing
this? The last thing I want to do is screw up this
> part of the 3
month ordeal...
After 15G install, I pre-primed my engine as
follows:
1) Everything put back together and ready to go
2)
Disconnected the spark plug wires from the coil packs
(and zip-tied them a
good distance away from the coil packs)
3) Cranked the engine until the low
oil pressure warning
light on the dash went out (did this a couple
times)
4) Reconnected the spark plug wires and started up the
car.
I've been told that this isn't the best way (and might even
be
dangerous...) to prime the system because it floods the
engine with
fuel. If disconnecting the CPS sensor will still
allow oil pressure to
build (it prevents fuel and spark), then
that may be a better method. I
use it all the time to run a
compression test (see the Service Manual
for details), but
I've forgotten to notice whether it allows the oil pump to
work....
> It was also pointed out in a letter I got with my turbos
from GT-PRO that I
> need to "pre-lube" the center section of the
turbos. What kind of "lube" do
> I use and where does it go
exactly.
I would assume that "lube" means oil. This is the
standard
instruction for any new turbo install. Priming the oil
system
using the above method will accomplish this.
> I'm guessing
that when I crank the car, it won't catch imediately because
> there is no
fuel in the fuel rails. Is there a special procedure that I
> should
follow to get fuel in the rails or do I just keep cranking until it
>
catches?
As Roger already pointed out, if the fuel pump does its
job
there is nothing to worry about. :)
> Anything I missed?
This is the first time I've replaced an engine by myself
> (or even had
one replaced for that matter...) so a few pointers would be
> GREATLY
appreciated. =)
Make sure you've torqued down your wheel
lugnuts! :)
Also, it's nice to have oil and coolant in the
engine. And
make sure the plenum is tightened down enough.
:)
Good luck! Let us know how it goes!
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
550's installed earlier this evening, with a bit of
jury-rigging
due to dropped parts, heheh.... Car runs great using
the
AFC, and I'm keeping things on the rich side for now
(~9.0:1).
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 06:48:49
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start
car...
Chris Maxwell wrote:
> Ok, I've put in a new engine and
bigger turbos and I'm going to start the
> car tomorrow. I've heard
that I need to prime the engine with oil though.
> How do I go about doing
this? The last thing I want to do is screw up this
> part of the 3
month ordeal...
>
> It was also pointed out in a letter I got with
my turbos from GT-PRO that I
> need to "pre-lube" the center section of
the turbos. What kind of "lube" do
> I use and where does it go
exactly.
Remove the oil feed lines to the turbos and fill center section
with oil (you
probably wont actually get it to fill since it will leak away
faster than you
can get it in). Just get a little oil in there.
Be careful if you use Roger's
recommendations (I'm sure Roger used lots of
care). Have clean hands if your
going to touch the compressor or
turbine wheels. I personally would not shoot
compressed air into the
turbo or spray WD40. It shouldn't be dirty, but if you
must used
compressed air, make sure it is filtered.
> I'm guessing that when I
crank the car, it won't catch imediately because
> there is no fuel in the
fuel rails. Is there a special procedure that I
> should follow to
get fuel in the rails or do I just keep cranking until it
>
catches?
As already mentioned, disconnect the crank position sensor
(a.k.a. crank angle
sensor, CAS). This will shut down fuel and spark
protecting you bore walls from
scuffing and cats if you still have
them. The oil pump is driven by the crank,
so yes you will build oil
pressure. Don't rely on this method to pre-lube the
turbos since at
these speeds only a drop or two will come out. What I've done
is keep
the turbo feed lines disconnected during this cranking and allowed the
lines
to drip oil into a catch can. This allows the lines to clean
themselves
into a can that you will discard instead of your turbos seeing the
first
potentially dirty oil. Once you've built pressure from cranking,
reconnect the
CAS and you're set.
> Anything I missed? This
is the first time I've replaced an engine by myself
> (or even had one
replaced for that matter...) so a few pointers would be
> GREATLY
appreciated. =)
Ditto Roger and Errin, make sure you've got coolant
topped off and oil in the
sump. Watch coolant level closely, you may
need to add some as pockets of air
clear from the system.
>
Thanks,
> Chris
> 92 R/T TT (now with a 4-bolt main and 355
turbos)
My '92 will soon have a 4-bolt underhood also. Best of
luck!
Joe Gonsowski
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:16:02
+0200
From: "Robby (fs)" <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start car...
>Be
careful if you use Roger's
>recommendations (I'm sure Roger used lots of
care). Have clean hands if your
>going to touch the compressor or
turbine wheels. I personally would not shoot
>compressed air into
the turbo or spray WD40. It shouldn't be dirty, but
>if
you
>must used compressed air, make sure it is filtered.
Thanks for
the add-on Joe ! The WD-40 stuff is often used on compressor
wheels and is
better than to try to clean it with a towel. I sprayed only a
little and
then used my airbrush gun to clean it. This is only about 1 bar
of pressure
and filtered (for airbrush)
>lines to drip oil into a catch can.
This allows the lines to clean themselves
>into a can that you will
discard instead of your turbos seeing the first
>potentially dirty
oil.
Brilliant idea, it's so logical but one is not thinking about this
at all !
Since I haven't the engine cranked yet, I'll do this for sure as
the lines
are out of the other car. Thanks :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
..... belt still not on (but the mitsu tools arrived, weekend
ahead,
hehe)
www.rtec.ch
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:15:14
+0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: <90+> <Turbo> Apexi Boost
Controller Catastrophic Failure (almost)
Hello guys,
I had to face
an interesting problem recently.
While driving aggressively @ high boost
(on the F1 Zandwoort circuit, as a
part of the Y2K Euro Z meeting), I heard
DETONATION (3
times....)....aarrgghhh.
Upon checking my boost gauges
(I have 4 of them in the car, Stock, analog in
A-Pillar, built in Turbo
Timer, built in boost controller), I noticed the
following strange
things.
The DEPRESSION values would be acceptable, and all gauges would
report the
same value.
Under boost, the STOCK boost gauge would report a
"possible" value, one
would report a "below" average, and the last two gauges
would report
"impossibly LOW" values.
Unfortunately, one of the gauges
reporting the LOW value was the gauge built
in the Apexi Super AVC-R (Boost
controller)
To make it short, I discovered that the problem was lying in
the Apexi boost
line air filter (you know, that stupid guizmo, plastic,
transparent, looking
like a flying saucer, with two nipples on it, whose
function has yet to be
discovered).
Anyway, it seems that the GLUE
supposed to hold the two halves together
was....ahem...almost .factory
missing, as the entire unit seems to have only
a couple spots where some glue
has been applied.
So, under idling, the depression would "hold" the two
parts together, and
the reading would be acceptable, but under boost, the
parts would act like a
"bleed valve"...
In fact, at one point, I
managed to determine that my boost was 0.8 bar, but
the boost controller
would see only 0.08 bar (10 fold).
Of course, because of that, my Boost
Controller would NEVER try to lower the
boost.....
This is a SERIOUS
condition, and could have cost me a new engine (because a
0.10$ part was
defective....)
So, if you have one of these "in line filters", may I
suggest that you
immediately go and check them....in my case, I removed all
these filters...
AND.....
It could be a nice idea to have more
than one boost gauge, but NOT from the
SAME boost source.
Zee
you
Henri
IZCC #1000
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 09:38:01
-0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: What Wheels?
I signed onto TireRack to check on wheels and tires,
and found only TWO
17-in wheels that fit our car. Only one -- the Milli
Miglia Emotion --
looked suitable. The OZ Operas are just plain ugly, and
they look like they
don't have any airflow for brake cooling.
Fittipaldis and BREs for our
cars are discontinued, according to Tire
Rack..
I need to stay with a 17 in. wheel (because of race tire
availability), I
need a wheel that can withstand open track/driver school
events, and I'd
dearly love to have lots of open spaces (read: skinny spokes)
to cool brakes.
Anybody got any ideas on what might fit these
requirements?
What are you other racers running?
By the bye, even on
its old Yoko 032R "driver's school tires" (as Tire Rack
calls them), my
little Mitsu was the class of the day yesterday at the
Marshalltown Speedway.
None of the 15 cars that showed up -- BMW M3s, 325s
and Porsche 944 Turbos --
were any competition at all, even in the hands of
instructors. Gawd, we have
magnificent cars!
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 09:53:37
-0500
From: "Kyle Meyer" <kyle@logicaldirection.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sumitomo tires?
I have 245/45 SZ50s on my NT and they are
MUCH skinnier than the 245/45
Yokohama A520's on the front. They have to be
the skinniest 245 tire I have
ever seen, and I have almost gone to complain
about the difference in size.
I'd be curious to see what actual measurements
of them are...
- -Kyle
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jason Barnhart
> Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 12:38 PM
>
To: Ken Middaugh; Matt Jannusch
> Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sumitomo tires?
>
>
> I'm also running
Firehawk SZ50 EPs now in 275/40/17 (they sure
> don't look 3
>
centimeters wider than my Pzeros were) and the traction is
>
amazing. I could
> light my Pzeros up pretty easily, even from a
roll in first on
> cold nights,
> but I'm wondering if my clutch is
going to hold up as the Firehawks just
> won't spin. I've noticed
some minor rubbing on the plastic inner fender,
> when I get around to it
I'll secure the plastic so it doesn't
> move around so
> much.
They seem very quite and track very well. The tread is
> really
deep,
> so I'd expect to get a lot of life out of them.
>
>
Jason
> 94 VR4
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 11:20:52
-0500
From: "John C. Davidson" <jd@edge-software.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: What Wheels?
> Anybody got any ideas on what might fit these
requirements?
> What are you other racers running?
They're pricey,
but check out Volks. I believe the TE37's are popular in
the racing
crowd (just my observations). I went with the 17x9 Challenges
since I
prefer the 5 spoke style. There's no doubt the brakes get more
air,
just check my site for the pics. They're shown on the 92, but
right now
they're on the 93. And if I ever get off my butt I'll install
the 4 cryoed
Porterfields, 2 Big Reds, and 2 96VR4 rear calipers I've got
sitting on
my living room floor.
Here are a couple of Volk links from
my files:
http://www.mackinindustries.com/volk.html
http://www.volkracing.co.jp/
Hope
this helps...
-JD
http://www.edge-software.com/private/jd/vr4
1993
Caracas Red 3000GT VR4 -------------------------------
Factory stock, with
all options: sunroof, chrome wheels,
premium sound system, and cd
changer
1992 Sandstone Gray Metallic 3000GT VR4
-------------------
Blitz DSBC, Blitz SBOV, SPI Boost Gauge, WeaponX
Intake,
Eibach Springs, Stillen Crossdrilled Rotors, Metal Matrix
Pads,
Borla Exhaust, Snake Eyes Mod., Volk Challenge wheels
(Chrome
w/Black Diamond lip), Firehawk SZ50 275/40 zr17
tires.
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 12:48:18
-0400
From: Brian Geisel <brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What Wheels?
Thos Challenges do look like a nice wheel (nice
and open). Any idea
what they weight? I hate it when
manufactures' don't list weights!
TIA,
geis
"John C. Davidson"
wrote:
> > Anybody got any ideas on what might fit these
requirements?
> > What are you other racers running?
>
>
They're pricey, but check out Volks. I believe the TE37's are popular
in
> the racing crowd (just my observations). I went with the 17x9
Challenges
> since I prefer the 5 spoke style. There's no doubt the
brakes get more air,
> just check my site for the pics. They're
shown on the 92, but right now
> they're on the 93. And if I ever
get off my butt I'll install the 4 cryoed
> Porterfields, 2 Big Reds, and
2 96VR4 rear calipers I've got sitting on
> my living room
floor.
>
> Here are a couple of Volk links from my
files:
>
> http://www.mackinindustries.com/volk.html
>
http://www.volkracing.co.jp/
>
>
Hope this helps...
>
> -JD
>
>
http://www.edge-software.com/private/jd/vr4
>
>
1993 Caracas Red 3000GT VR4 -------------------------------
> Factory
stock, with all options: sunroof, chrome wheels,
> premium sound system,
and cd changer
>
> 1992 Sandstone Gray Metallic 3000GT VR4
-------------------
> Blitz DSBC, Blitz SBOV, SPI Boost Gauge, WeaponX
Intake,
> Eibach Springs, Stillen Crossdrilled Rotors, Metal Matrix
Pads,
> Borla Exhaust, Snake Eyes Mod., Volk Challenge wheels
(Chrome
> w/Black Diamond lip), Firehawk SZ50 275/40 zr17
tires.
>
> *** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 15:45:24
-0400 (EDT)
From: aa2345@wayne.edu
Subject: Team3S: 60K
service related
Hello Team,
I have 5 quick question for those that
might know. I am going to do
within the next few days a 60K tune-up on
my brothers 94 TT (stock).
1. Are these prices reasonable
(the Mitsu ones $582 except for spark
plugs)?
2. Is labor
reasonable from the Mitsu Dealer ($585) for the 60K service?
3. Are
both the Idler Belt Pulley Part numbers (MD140071 and
MD319022)
necessary?
4. Can I ask the Mitsu Dealer to set the spark
plug setting to .31
instead of .39 for now? This is because I plan on
putting in an
electronic boost controller in this car within 1 or 2
months. Will it
hurt anything if I run the plugs on such a short
distance?
5. Does anyone know of better Spark Plug wires (how much,
where bought
from?) and spark plugs than the stock ones, keeping in mind a
boost
controller in the near future.
Here are the parts I looked up at
the Dodge Dealer and at a Mitsu Dealer.
I have to admit that the Mitsu dealer
had prices cheaper by 27%.
1994 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo (60K
service)
$131
MD193874 Timing
Belt
$88
MD319040
Tensioneer
$109
MD972005 Water
Pump
$25
MD174234
Thermostat
$19
MD172376 Power Steering
Belt
$25
MD187463 Accessory (A/C)
Belt
$30
MB658136 Fuel
Filter
$3
MD180361 Throtle Body
Gasket
$10
MD143791 Intake Plenum
Gasket
$81
MD193980 Spark Plug Wires
???????? Platinum NKG Spark
plugs
$31.44
MD140071 Timing Belt Idler
Pulley possible part
numbers
$29.61
MD319022
-
---------------------
$582.48 all
the above parts except for the Platinum NKG
plugs
$585 Labor from Mitsu
Dealer
Here are the prices I got from a Dodge
Dealer.
$793 all the above
parts except for the Platinum NKG
plugs
$850 Labor from Dodge
Dealer
As you can see, the Dodge dealer is a rip-off.
I e-mailed
Tallahassee Mitsubishi this list of part numbers, but so far
they have not
replied back with the prices so that I can see if they are
cheaper. The
mitsu dealer agreed to put in original factory parts.
Thanks in advance
to anyone who will help, and to someones website (that I
only have a printout
of) who I cant give the proper credit. You know who
you are.
Really nice website entitled Team 3S- Dodge Stealth Mitsubishi
3000GT 60k
Service. Wish I could give the propper
credit.
Sincerely,
Mike.
94 Pearl Yellow Stealth TT
93 Red
Stealth Base model, 5 sp needs 120K tune-up, so if anyone has the
part
numbers necessary for the tune-up or can point me to the right
website, I
will greatly appreciate it.
Detroit Metro Area.
***
Info: http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#172
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