team3s             Thursday, June 22 2000             Volume 01 : Number 172




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:28:54 -0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

Try Summit Racing.   www.summitracing.com
They had the best price on mine for a VR-4.

(and no, I'm not associated with summit racing.  I'm at Summit
Microelectronics)



"Dale T. Kroetz" wrote:

> I'm new to this list. Could someone tell the best/cheapest place to buy
> a K&N FIPK for a 92 SL?
>
> --
>
> Dale T. Kroetz
> kroetz@mvn.net
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:32:22 -0700
From: Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com
Subject: Cracked Porterfields - Team3S: [Admin]: Back..

:The expected news:
:
:The porterfield CD rotors, cracked at the hub after only that few laps.
:Will be using cryo'd stockers next time around IMHO..unless
:Brad/Merritt
:has another rotor suggestion I can use with the Big Reds.


He forgot that 'the wife' had the car out for two complete half hour sessions in
the morning... approx 90 miles worth of hard driving if the odometer is to be
believed.

Nice thing was... neither of us felt the breaks even beginning to fade... it was
wonderful to have that sort of stopping power!

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:28:18 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Borla exhaust for $398 (off topic)

Hey everyone,

I don't really like to solicit on the Team 3S list, but this is such a good
buy, I just had too.  I just discovered that CarParts is now selling the
Borla TT exhaust for $530.  And with my 25% off link, you can get it for
$398!!  That is the cheapest I have ever seen the Borla exhaust for.

To use the 25% off, go to my CarParts page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html and follow the directions for the 25%
off.  You'll have to click on a few links and jump back and forth between
browsers.

If you have any questions, please send them to me privatly.

Thanks,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:26:09 -0100
From: "Jason Barnhart" <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need instructions for gutting pre-cats / ATR Downpipe

Nope, it's all four.  Kinda hard to step the rears out, or double fish-tail
a launch if only the front are spinning.  I'm sure I could pull out some
pictures of small puffs of smoke from all four tires when the car still only
had a filter for mods if you'd like.

Jason


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:38:01 -0100
From: "Jason Barnhart" <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sumitomo tires?

I'm also running Firehawk SZ50 EPs now in 275/40/17 (they sure don't look 3
centimeters wider than my Pzeros were) and the traction is amazing.  I could
light my Pzeros up pretty easily, even from a roll in first on cold nights,
but I'm wondering if my clutch is going to hold up as the Firehawks just
won't spin.  I've noticed some minor rubbing on the plastic inner fender,
when I get around to it I'll secure the plastic so it doesn't move around so
much.  They seem very quite and track very well.  The tread is really deep,
so I'd expect to get a lot of life out of them.

Jason
94 VR4


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:12:14 -0600
From: "Manoj Prasad-Uswest" <mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Paint for wipers

I sanded the arms down a little bit. Put primer from a spray can and then
put 'Plasti-kote trim Bumper and trim' paint on the arm-(flat Black).  Let
it dry for 48 hours and it looks great.  I have had it for about 4 months
and not a nick on the new paint.

Rgds
Moe



- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Scott F.
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 11:41 PM
To: 3000GT Verio List; 3000gt Starnet list; 3000gt Team3s list
Subject: Team3S: Paint for wipers


What is the paint used on the front and rear wiper arms ?

Lacquer or enamel ? What can I buy off the shelf to repaint worn spots.


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

_____________________________________________
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 21 Jun 2000 15:33:09 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Milling pressure plate

Jim Berry:

I still don't understand why you can not mill the mounting surface of your clutch down as much as you mill down the friction surface.  Assuming that you can't you can calculate how much clutch pressure you will loose.  Note: this calculation will NOT work with a centerforce clutch.

Most steel springs are linear over a short range. So the spring pressure will drop by aproximately the same proportion that you increase the total throw. I would measure how far the thoughout bearing has to move to disengage the clutch

For Example:
The throw on my 91 vr-4 trans is roughly .5". removing .002" of material  would cause approximately (.002/.5 =.004) .4% reduction in clutch pressure which is not too much to worry about. So your 650 PSI pressure plate would now only exert 647.4" Lbs.

P.S. 
I have a stock clutch and pressure plate in my garage if you want pictures email me privately before Friday because I only have access to a digital camera on weekends.

John Monnin
91 3000GT VR4
jkmonnin@altavista.com


original message below:
> Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 19:50:50 -0700
> From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
> Subject: Team3S: flywheel
>
> I'm looking for information on resurfacing the flywheel on turbo cars.
> I finally got my used [ 5K miles ] Mueller lightweight flywheel and would
> like to touch up the surface before installing it.
> The flywheel is stepped --- that is the pressure plate is mounted on a
> different surface/level than the clutch plate. If you remove material from
> the friction surface, you alter the spacing between the flywheel friction
> surface and the pressure plate friction surface. The removal of any
> material is going to reduce the overall pressure exerted by the pressure
> plate.
> I'm sure the removal of 1 or 2 mills would have minimal a effect.
> What I don't know is, how much can be removed without adversely
> affecting the overall operation of clutch assembly ??
>
>         Jim Berry


_______________________________________________________________________

Why pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
http://jump.altavista.com/freeaccess4.go

_______________________________________________________________________


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 17:22:49 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question for Japanese owners

> >I was speaking (ok mailing) with Brad Bedell the other day and he was
> >saying that he thought that the Japanese VR4 GTOs were fitted with the
> >13G turbo as standard.

"Robby (fs)" wrote:

> No, only the European ones.

True.  The stock Japanese GTO's have 9B turbos.
Japanese performance companies such as GReddy
and HKS sell the 13G turbos as an upgrade for the
Japanese GTO.

- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:03:01 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Milling pressure plate

John

Thanks for your response and offer of pictures ---- I already found some pics on
Bob Fontanas web site.
I wasn't very clear in my original post --- the flywheel is a lightweight billet aluminum
disk with a replaceable steel friction surface. If I mill the pressure plate mounting
surface then when I replace the steel friction surface I can't undo the milling of the
mounting surface.
I went ahead today and had the friction surface dressed --- they had to remove .015"
which doesn't sound like much, but the pressure plate preload was only .135". The
removal of .015 is more than 10% of the preload, and I don't know how that will
affect the pressure plate operation [ 3000# pressure plate ]. I'll check with RPS
on Monday and see what they have to say !!

        Jim Berry
===========================================================
John Monnin wrote:

I still don't understand why you can not mill the mounting surface of your clutch down as much as
you mill down the friction surface.  Assuming that you can't you can calculate how much clutch
pressure you will loose.  Note: this calculation will NOT work with a centerforce clutch.

Most steel springs are linear over a short range. So the spring pressure will drop by aproximately
the same proportion that you increase the total throw. I would measure how far the thoughout bearing
has to move to disengage the clutch

For Example:
The throw on my 91 vr-4 trans is roughly .5". removing .002" of material  would cause approximately
(.002/.5 =.004) .4% reduction in clutch pressure which is not too much to worry about. So your 650
PSI pressure plate would now only exert 647.4" Lbs.

P.S.
I have a stock clutch and pressure plate in my garage if you want pictures email me privately before
Friday because I only have access to a digital camera on weekends.




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:27:08 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Bay Area motor installer (was: [Admin]: Back...)

Ive decided to work with BRE racing.

Met with them today for about two hours.

Dunno what it'll cost..dont care.  I asked for a motor capable of delivering
25psi for extended periods, and will actually only use 20-22 of it. 

Should be no problems.

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 22:13:57 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Off Topic: New 3000GT IRC server, Don't use the old one anymore

Hey guys, sorry for the off topic post, but there is a new IRC server.  We
are switching to:

irc.mdsog.net
#vr-4

Unfortunately, not too many people show up, but if we can get a little group
going there, it's a great way to share information quickly and do a little
socialization.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:17:38 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: sport springs install info needed

The information I've seen says to cut the bump stop in half for a 1 1/2" drop ---
seems reasonable to me.

        Jim Berry
====================================================

> I've done some research and decided that the lowering spring install can be
> a DIY project.  The question I have regards the bump stops.  I have not come
> up with any info pertaining to the issue of trimming them. Do they need to
> be trimmed and by how much?  The springs I'm going to install are the RS*R.
> Is there anything else I should be aware of before attempting this project
> this weekend?  Any and all advice is appreciated.
>
> Thanks for your time,
> Len



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 21:45:55 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start car...

Ok, I've put in a new engine and bigger turbos and I'm going to start the
car tomorrow.  I've heard that I need to prime the engine with oil though.
How do I go about doing this?  The last thing I want to do is screw up this
part of the 3 month ordeal...

It was also pointed out in a letter I got with my turbos from GT-PRO that I
need to "pre-lube" the center section of the turbos.  What kind of "lube" do
I use and where does it go exactly.

I'm guessing that when I crank the car, it won't catch imediately because
there is no fuel in the fuel rails.  Is there a special procedure that I
should follow to get fuel in the rails or do I just keep cranking until it
catches?

Anything I missed?  This is the first time I've replaced an engine by myself
(or even had one replaced for that matter...) so a few pointers would be
GREATLY appreciated.  =)

Thanks,
Chris
92 R/T TT (now with a 4-bolt main and 355 turbos)


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 10:11:05 +0200
From: "Robby (fs)" <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start car...

>It was also pointed out in a letter I got with my turbos from GT-PRO that I
>need to "pre-lube" the center section of the turbos.  What kind of "lube" do
>I use and where does it go exactly.

When I installed the turbos I filled up the oil inlet before attaching the
tube. Of course it didn't fill up but I turned the compressor wheel by the
fingers and let some oil running in the inlet. I also sprayed some WD-40
into the air inlet and blowed it out with compressed air so msot dirst
sitting in there is removed.

>there is no fuel in the fuel rails.  Is there a special procedure that I
>should follow to get fuel in the rails or do I just keep cranking until it
>catches?

The moment you turn the key to ignition on, the fuel pump relay is
activated without the resistor in between for one or two seconds and this
causes the fuel pressure built up. I highly recommend a FP gauge to control
this (there is an adapter tool from Mitsu that can be attached to the fuel
rails. The car may crank over some times as there is dirt in the cylinders
and this and that (better locate all tools before you start the car, hehe)
It's also a good idea just to crank the engine over a few times without
ignition and fuel injection activated. Then actived the other stuff and the
thing should start with a puff (rich start condition). This is pretty
normal. Follow the procedure in the manual regarding oil and water and your
fine (shut it off after a few seconds the first time)

>Anything I missed?  This is the first time I've replaced an engine by myself
>(or even had one replaced for that matter...) so a few pointers would be
>GREATLY appreciated.  =)

Make sure the belts are on perfectly and recheck all hoses again. Also make
sure all wires are secured well and use some tie wraps if there are some
that look too loose. Also, make sure the timign belt is well attached with
the proper tourque as well as if the timing marks are at the correct position.

Roger (only the timing belt is still off...)
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 03:24:42 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start car...

Chris Maxwell wrote:

> Ok, I've put in a new engine and bigger turbos and I'm going to start the
> car tomorrow.  I've heard that I need to prime the engine with oil though.
> How do I go about doing this?  The last thing I want to do is screw up this
> part of the 3 month ordeal...

After 15G install, I pre-primed my engine as follows:

1) Everything put back together and ready to go
2) Disconnected the spark plug wires from the coil packs
(and zip-tied them a good distance away from the coil packs)
3) Cranked the engine until the low oil pressure warning
light on the dash went out (did this a couple times)
4) Reconnected the spark plug wires and started up the car.

I've been told that this isn't the best way (and might even
be dangerous...) to prime the system because it floods the
engine with fuel.  If disconnecting the CPS sensor will still
allow oil pressure to build (it prevents fuel and spark), then
that may be a better method.  I use it all the time to run a
compression test  (see the Service Manual for details), but
I've forgotten to notice whether it allows the oil pump to work....

> It was also pointed out in a letter I got with my turbos from GT-PRO that I
> need to "pre-lube" the center section of the turbos.  What kind of "lube" do
> I use and where does it go exactly.

I would assume that "lube" means oil.  This is the standard
instruction for any new turbo install.  Priming the oil system
using the above method will accomplish this.

> I'm guessing that when I crank the car, it won't catch imediately because
> there is no fuel in the fuel rails.  Is there a special procedure that I
> should follow to get fuel in the rails or do I just keep cranking until it
> catches?

As Roger already pointed out, if the fuel pump does its
job there is nothing to worry about.  :)

> Anything I missed?  This is the first time I've replaced an engine by myself
> (or even had one replaced for that matter...) so a few pointers would be
> GREATLY appreciated.  =)

Make sure you've torqued down your wheel lugnuts!  :)

Also, it's nice to have oil and coolant in the engine.  And
make sure the plenum is tightened down enough.  :)

Good luck!  Let us know how it goes!

- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle
550's installed earlier this evening, with a bit of jury-rigging
due to dropped parts, heheh....  Car runs great using the
AFC, and I'm keeping things on the rich side for now (~9.0:1).




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 06:48:49 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start car...

Chris Maxwell wrote:

> Ok, I've put in a new engine and bigger turbos and I'm going to start the
> car tomorrow.  I've heard that I need to prime the engine with oil though.
> How do I go about doing this?  The last thing I want to do is screw up this
> part of the 3 month ordeal...
>
> It was also pointed out in a letter I got with my turbos from GT-PRO that I
> need to "pre-lube" the center section of the turbos.  What kind of "lube" do
> I use and where does it go exactly.

Remove the oil feed lines to the turbos and fill center section with oil (you
probably wont actually get it to fill since it will leak away faster than you
can get it in).  Just get a little oil in there.  Be careful if you use Roger's
recommendations (I'm sure Roger used lots of care).  Have clean hands if your
going to touch the compressor or turbine wheels.  I personally would not shoot
compressed air into the turbo or spray WD40.  It shouldn't be dirty, but if you
must used compressed air, make sure it is filtered.

> I'm guessing that when I crank the car, it won't catch imediately because
> there is no fuel in the fuel rails.  Is there a special procedure that I
> should follow to get fuel in the rails or do I just keep cranking until it
> catches?

As already mentioned, disconnect the crank position sensor (a.k.a. crank angle
sensor, CAS).  This will shut down fuel and spark protecting you bore walls from
scuffing and cats if you still have them.  The oil pump is driven by the crank,
so yes you will build oil pressure.  Don't rely on this method to pre-lube the
turbos since at these speeds only a drop or two will come out.  What I've done
is keep the turbo feed lines disconnected during this cranking and allowed the
lines to drip oil into a catch can.  This allows the lines to clean themselves
into a can that you will discard instead of your turbos seeing the first
potentially dirty oil.  Once you've built pressure from cranking, reconnect the
CAS and you're set.

> Anything I missed?  This is the first time I've replaced an engine by myself
> (or even had one replaced for that matter...) so a few pointers would be
> GREATLY appreciated.  =)

Ditto Roger and Errin, make sure you've got coolant topped off and oil in the
sump.  Watch coolant level closely, you may need to add some as pockets of air
clear from the system.

> Thanks,
> Chris
> 92 R/T TT (now with a 4-bolt main and 355 turbos)

My '92 will soon have a 4-bolt underhood also.  Best of luck!
Joe Gonsowski


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:16:02 +0200
From: "Robby (fs)" <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Put new engine and turbos in, about ready to start car...

>Be careful if you use Roger's
>recommendations (I'm sure Roger used lots of care).  Have clean hands if your
>going to touch the compressor or turbine wheels.  I personally would not shoot
>compressed air into the turbo or spray WD40.  It shouldn't be dirty, but
>if you
>must used compressed air, make sure it is filtered.

Thanks for the add-on Joe ! The WD-40 stuff is often used on compressor
wheels and is better than to try to clean it with a towel. I sprayed only a
little and then used my airbrush gun to clean it. This is only about 1 bar
of pressure and filtered (for airbrush)

>lines to drip oil into a catch can.  This allows the lines to clean themselves
>into a can that you will discard instead of your turbos seeing the first
>potentially dirty oil.

Brilliant idea, it's so logical but one is not thinking about this at all !
Since I haven't the engine cranked yet, I'll do this for sure as the lines
are out of the other car. Thanks :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT ..... belt still not on (but the mitsu tools arrived, weekend
ahead, hehe)
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 13:15:14 +0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: <90+> <Turbo> Apexi Boost Controller Catastrophic Failure (almost)

Hello guys,

I had to face an interesting problem recently.

While driving aggressively @ high boost (on the F1 Zandwoort circuit, as a
part of the Y2K Euro Z meeting), I heard DETONATION (3
times....)....aarrgghhh.

Upon checking my boost gauges (I have 4 of them in the car, Stock, analog in
A-Pillar, built in Turbo Timer, built in boost controller), I noticed the
following strange things.

The DEPRESSION values would be acceptable, and all gauges would report the
same value.
Under boost, the STOCK boost gauge would report a "possible" value, one
would report a "below" average, and the last two gauges would report
"impossibly LOW" values.

Unfortunately, one of the gauges reporting the LOW value was the gauge built
in the Apexi Super AVC-R (Boost controller)

To make it short, I discovered that the problem was lying in the Apexi boost
line air filter (you know, that stupid guizmo, plastic, transparent, looking
like a flying saucer, with two nipples on it, whose function has yet to be
discovered).

Anyway, it seems that the GLUE supposed to hold the two halves together
was....ahem...almost .factory missing, as the entire unit seems to have only
a couple spots where some glue has been applied.

So, under idling, the depression would "hold" the two parts together, and
the reading would be acceptable, but under boost, the parts would act like a
"bleed valve"...

In fact, at one point, I managed to determine that my boost was 0.8 bar, but
the boost controller would see only 0.08 bar (10 fold).

Of course, because of that, my Boost Controller would NEVER try to lower the
boost.....

This is a SERIOUS condition, and could have cost me a new engine (because a
0.10$ part was defective....)

So, if you have one of these "in line filters", may I suggest that you
immediately go and check them....in my case, I removed all these filters...

AND.....

It could be a nice idea to have more than one boost gauge, but NOT from the
SAME boost source.

Zee you

Henri
IZCC #1000


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 09:38:01 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: What Wheels?

I signed onto TireRack to check on wheels and tires, and found only TWO
17-in wheels that fit our car. Only one  -- the Milli Miglia Emotion --
looked suitable. The OZ Operas are just plain ugly, and they look like they
don't have any airflow for brake cooling.  Fittipaldis and BREs for our
cars are discontinued, according to Tire Rack..

I need to stay with a 17 in. wheel (because of race tire availability), I
need a wheel that can withstand open track/driver school events, and I'd
dearly love to have lots of open spaces (read: skinny spokes) to cool brakes.

Anybody got any ideas on what might fit these requirements?
What are you other racers running?

By the bye, even on its old Yoko 032R "driver's school tires" (as Tire Rack
calls them), my little Mitsu was the class of the day yesterday at the
Marshalltown Speedway. None of the 15 cars that showed up -- BMW M3s, 325s
and Porsche 944 Turbos -- were any competition at all, even in the hands of
instructors. Gawd, we have magnificent cars!

Rich/old poop/94 VR4



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 09:53:37 -0500
From: "Kyle Meyer" <kyle@logicaldirection.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Sumitomo tires?

I have 245/45 SZ50s on my NT and they are MUCH skinnier than the 245/45
Yokohama A520's on the front. They have to be the skinniest 245 tire I have
ever seen, and I have almost gone to complain about the difference in size.
I'd be curious to see what actual measurements of them are...

- -Kyle

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Jason Barnhart
> Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 12:38 PM
> To: Ken Middaugh; Matt Jannusch
> Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Sumitomo tires?
>
>
> I'm also running Firehawk SZ50 EPs now in 275/40/17 (they sure
> don't look 3
> centimeters wider than my Pzeros were) and the traction is
> amazing.  I could
> light my Pzeros up pretty easily, even from a roll in first on
> cold nights,
> but I'm wondering if my clutch is going to hold up as the Firehawks just
> won't spin.  I've noticed some minor rubbing on the plastic inner fender,
> when I get around to it I'll secure the plastic so it doesn't
> move around so
> much.  They seem very quite and track very well.  The tread is
> really deep,
> so I'd expect to get a lot of life out of them.
>
> Jason
> 94 VR4
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 11:20:52 -0500
From: "John C. Davidson" <jd@edge-software.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: What Wheels?

> Anybody got any ideas on what might fit these requirements?
> What are you other racers running?

They're pricey, but check out Volks.  I believe the TE37's are popular in
the racing crowd (just my observations).  I went with the 17x9 Challenges
since I prefer the 5 spoke style.  There's no doubt the brakes get more air,
just check my site for the pics.  They're shown on the 92, but right now
they're on the 93.  And if I ever get off my butt I'll install the 4 cryoed
Porterfields, 2 Big Reds, and 2 96VR4 rear calipers I've got sitting on
my living room floor.

Here are a couple of Volk links from my files:

  http://www.mackinindustries.com/volk.html
  http://www.volkracing.co.jp/

Hope this helps...

    -JD


http://www.edge-software.com/private/jd/vr4

1993 Caracas Red 3000GT VR4 -------------------------------
Factory stock, with all options: sunroof, chrome wheels,
premium sound system, and cd changer

1992 Sandstone Gray Metallic 3000GT VR4 -------------------
Blitz DSBC, Blitz SBOV, SPI Boost Gauge, WeaponX Intake,
Eibach Springs, Stillen Crossdrilled Rotors, Metal Matrix Pads,
Borla Exhaust, Snake Eyes Mod., Volk Challenge wheels (Chrome
w/Black Diamond lip), Firehawk SZ50 275/40 zr17 tires.

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 12:48:18 -0400
From: Brian Geisel <brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: What Wheels?

Thos Challenges do look like a nice wheel (nice and open).  Any idea
what they weight?  I hate it when manufactures' don't list weights!

TIA,
geis

"John C. Davidson" wrote:

> > Anybody got any ideas on what might fit these requirements?
> > What are you other racers running?
>
> They're pricey, but check out Volks.  I believe the TE37's are popular in
> the racing crowd (just my observations).  I went with the 17x9 Challenges
> since I prefer the 5 spoke style.  There's no doubt the brakes get more air,
> just check my site for the pics.  They're shown on the 92, but right now
> they're on the 93.  And if I ever get off my butt I'll install the 4 cryoed
> Porterfields, 2 Big Reds, and 2 96VR4 rear calipers I've got sitting on
> my living room floor.
>
> Here are a couple of Volk links from my files:
>
>   http://www.mackinindustries.com/volk.html
>   http://www.volkracing.co.jp/
>
> Hope this helps...
>
>     -JD
>
> http://www.edge-software.com/private/jd/vr4
>
> 1993 Caracas Red 3000GT VR4 -------------------------------
> Factory stock, with all options: sunroof, chrome wheels,
> premium sound system, and cd changer
>
> 1992 Sandstone Gray Metallic 3000GT VR4 -------------------
> Blitz DSBC, Blitz SBOV, SPI Boost Gauge, WeaponX Intake,
> Eibach Springs, Stillen Crossdrilled Rotors, Metal Matrix Pads,
> Borla Exhaust, Snake Eyes Mod., Volk Challenge wheels (Chrome
> w/Black Diamond lip), Firehawk SZ50 275/40 zr17 tires.
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 15:45:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: aa2345@wayne.edu
Subject: Team3S: 60K service related

Hello Team,

I have 5 quick question for those that might know.  I am going to do
within the next few days a 60K tune-up on my brothers 94 TT (stock). 

1.  Are these prices reasonable (the Mitsu ones  $582 except for spark
plugs)?
2.  Is labor reasonable from the Mitsu Dealer ($585) for the 60K service?
3.  Are both the Idler Belt Pulley Part numbers (MD140071 and MD319022)
necessary?
4.  Can I ask the Mitsu Dealer to set the spark plug setting to .31
instead of .39 for now?  This is because I plan on putting in an
electronic boost controller in this car within 1 or 2 months.  Will it
hurt anything if I run the plugs on such a short distance?
5.  Does anyone know of better Spark Plug wires (how much, where bought
from?) and spark plugs than the stock ones, keeping in mind a boost
controller in the near future.

Here are the parts I looked up at the Dodge Dealer and at a Mitsu Dealer.
I have to admit that the Mitsu dealer had prices cheaper by 27%. 

1994 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo (60K service)

        $131 MD193874        Timing Belt
        $88 MD319040        Tensioneer
        $109 MD972005        Water Pump
        $25 MD174234        Thermostat
        $19 MD172376        Power Steering Belt
        $25 MD187463        Accessory (A/C) Belt
        $30 MB658136        Fuel Filter
        $3 MD180361        Throtle Body Gasket
        $10 MD143791        Intake Plenum Gasket
        $81 MD193980        Spark Plug Wires
                ????????        Platinum NKG Spark plugs
        $31.44 MD140071        Timing Belt Idler Pulley  possible part
                                                         numbers
        $29.61 MD319022    
- ---------------------
        $582.48 all the above parts except for the Platinum NKG plugs
        $585 Labor from Mitsu Dealer


Here are the prices I got from a Dodge Dealer.
         $793 all the above parts except for the Platinum NKG plugs
         $850 Labor from Dodge Dealer

As you can see, the Dodge dealer is a rip-off.

I e-mailed Tallahassee Mitsubishi this list of part numbers, but so far
they have not replied back with the prices so that I can see if they are
cheaper.  The mitsu dealer agreed to put in original factory parts.

Thanks in advance to anyone who will help, and to someones website (that I
only have a printout of) who I cant give the proper credit.  You know who
you are.  Really nice website entitled Team 3S- Dodge Stealth Mitsubishi
3000GT 60k Service.  Wish I could give the propper credit.

Sincerely,

Mike.
94 Pearl Yellow Stealth TT
93 Red Stealth Base model, 5 sp  needs 120K tune-up, so if anyone has the
part numbers necessary for the tune-up or can point me to the right
website, I will greatly appreciate it.

Detroit Metro Area.



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #172
*********************