team3s
Wednesday, June 21
2000 Volume 01
: Number
171
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 19 Jun 2000 20:07:36 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
pressure plate and flywheel
Anyone have pictures of the stock pressure
plate and flywheel --- web site
or digital pics. If so please contact me
privately.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 19:50:50
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
flywheel
I'm looking for information on resurfacing the flywheel on turbo
cars.
I finally got my used [ 5K miles ] Mueller lightweight flywheel and
would
like to touch up the surface before installing it.
The flywheel is
stepped --- that is the pressure plate is mounted on a
different
surface/level than the clutch plate. If you remove material from
the friction
surface, you alter the spacing between the flywheel friction
surface and the
pressure plate friction surface. The removal of any
material is going to
reduce the overall pressure exerted by the pressure
plate.
I'm sure the
removal of 1 or 2 mills would have minimal a effect.
What I don't know is,
how much can be removed without adversely
affecting the overall operation of
clutch assembly ??
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:38:34
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Sumitomo tires?
Anyone tried the Sumitomo HTR Z II tires? I'm
thinking of getting a set and was wondering if anyone had tried them and whether
or not they sucked. My driving is mostly highway driving, with an
autocross about once a month during non-winter times.
What sort of sizes
will fit on the 17" wheels without hitting suspension components? I looked
for a FAQ, but didn't find one. Maybe I can whip one up with whatever
answers I get.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/sumitomo/su_htrz_2.jspI
currently have a set of the Firestone Firehawk SZ's on the car and they can be
pretty loud with the top down... That's really the only thing I don't like
about those. The wear was good on them, about 25,000 miles and a number of
autocrosses.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 23:54:59
+0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Manual for Paxton EFI FPR needed
Unfortunately, I probably have thrown
away the manual of the Paxton Fuel
pressure regulator. I need to know what
the different installation options
are as well as the thread size of the port
on the underside to get the
proper fitting. I'd be happy if anyone could scan
the drawings or can lead
me to any information on the web.
Thanks in
advance,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 22:48:06
-0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Raising compression
Is there a formula, rule, or equasion that shows how
high a certan engine's
compression ratio can be
raised?
Matt
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 22:13:11
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: flywheel
As long as you remove the same amounts from both
levels, you will be okay.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 9:51 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
starnet
Subject: Team3S: flywheel
I'm looking for information on
resurfacing the flywheel on turbo cars.
I finally got my used [ 5K miles ]
Mueller lightweight flywheel and would
like to touch up the surface before
installing it.
The flywheel is stepped --- that is the pressure plate is
mounted on a
different surface/level than the clutch plate. If you remove
material from
the friction surface, you alter the spacing between the
flywheel friction
surface and the pressure plate friction surface. The
removal of any
material is going to reduce the overall pressure exerted by
the pressure
plate.
I'm sure the removal of 1 or 2 mills would have
minimal a effect.
What I don't know is, how much can be removed without
adversely
affecting the overall operation of clutch assembly
??
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:44:09
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw:
flywheel
I'm looking for information on resurfacing the flywheel on
turbo cars.
I finally got my used [ 5K miles ] Mueller lightweight flywheel
and would
like to touch up the surface before installing it.
The
flywheel is stepped --- that is the pressure plate is mounted on a
different surface/level than the clutch plate. If you remove material
from
the friction surface, you alter the spacing between the flywheel
friction
surface and the pressure plate friction surface. The removal of any
material is going to reduce the overall pressure exerted by the
pressure
plate.
I'm sure the removal of 1 or 2 mills would have minimal a
effect.
What I don't know is, how much can be removed without adversely
affecting the overall operation of clutch assembly
??
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 11:47:34
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone have a spare TCU from a...
Hello, does anyone out there
have a junked or parts car,
*1991-1992 (and possibly 1993) "3000gt SL" or
Dodge Stealth RT / ES with the
220 (dohc, but n/a engine). If so, is it an
A/T tranny?
If you have the above, I would be interested in purchasing
the A/T TCU (A/t
tranny computer). It's not because I NEED it, I want to
experiment with it,
so as such, I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on
something, that
may or may not work for what I am trying.
Someone was
sending me one from Canada, but it never got here. The sender
insists that he
sent it... <sigh>.
Please contact me offline about this, as I don't
want to add to the clutter,
my email address is
eagletek@hotmail.com (my normal one,
the
billi_gates@hotmail.com is
just for 3/S digests, and not checked as often).
Thanks in
advance!
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 20:57:41
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
flywheel
Brad thanks !!!
I know you can do that on a stock
flywheel, but the Mueller lightweight has a billet
aluminum disk with a
replaceable hardened steel friction surface. I can't undo any
modifications
to the pressure plate mounting surface when I replace the steel
friction
surface.
The replacement friction surface is $100 --- In this case I just
want to touch up the
surface, but I'd also like to know how much I can
remove, if any.
Jim
berry
================================================
Brad
wrote
> As long as you remove the same amounts from both levels, you will
be
okay.
============================================================
Jim
Berry wrote
>> Subject: Team3S: flywheel
>>I'm looking for
information on resurfacing the flywheel on turbo cars.
>> I finally got
my used [ 5K miles ] Mueller lightweight flywheel and would
>> like to
touch up the surface before installing it.
>> The flywheel is stepped
--- that is the pressure plate is mounted on a
>> different
surface/level than the clutch plate. If you remove material from
>> the
friction surface, you alter the spacing between the flywheel
friction
>> surface and the pressure plate friction surface. The
removal of any
>> material is going to reduce the overall pressure
exerted by the pressure
>> plate.
>> I'm sure the removal of 1
or 2 mills would have minimal a effect.
>> What I don't know is, how
much can be removed without adversely
>> affecting the overall
operation of clutch assembly ??
>>
>> Jim Berry
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:04:47
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: HKS boost controller? Good/bad/indifferent
I've finally found
someone up in Northern Ireland that can supply and
fit a boost controller and
stuff. Only thing is I have only 1 option, an
HKS EVC4 electronic controller
with a Fuel-Cut defender.
Is this a good option? If not, what is better.
The price seems quite
high stg£630 ($900) plus 4 hours labour. Is this normal
or high? I'm
getting the HKS N2 exhaust at the same time and thinking about
the
"Super PowerFlow free-flow induction system with twin filters £215.00
1
hour Fitting time"
Anyone think this is steep or there is a better
option?
Can anyone supply to Ireland (add 4.7%duty then add 21% VAT onto
the
price for the import to compare prices, plus shipping of
course).
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import
VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:08:32
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question for Japanese owners
Hi there in Japan,
Note for
US owners: 3000GT in Japan is called Mitsu GTO
I was speaking (ok
mailing) with Brad Bedell the other day and he was
saying that he thought
that the Japanese VR4 GTOs were fitted with the
13G turbo as standard. I know
the MR2 Turbo I had ('95) had a bigger,
ceramic turbo than all other markets
so this is very possible for the
VR4 too. Can anyone over there confirm/deny
this for me please as I'm
considering upgrading the turbos and want to be
sure what I have before
I upgrade.
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:36:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HKS boost controller? Good/bad/indifferent
$900!??!?!? Dude
the labor is like 20 mins! Thats a horrid price!
On Thu, 15 Jun 2000,
Gordon Tyrrell wrote:
> I've finally found someone up in Northern
Ireland that can supply and
> fit a boost controller and stuff. Only thing
is I have only 1 option, an
> HKS EVC4 electronic controller with a
Fuel-Cut defender.
>
> Is this a good option? If not, what is
better. The price seems quite
> high stg£630 ($900) plus 4 hours labour.
Is this normal or high? I'm
> getting the HKS N2 exhaust at the same time
and thinking about the
> "Super PowerFlow free-flow induction system with
twin filters £215.00 1
> hour Fitting time"
>
> Anyone think
this is steep or there is a better option?
>
> Can anyone supply to
Ireland (add 4.7%duty then add 21% VAT onto the
> price for the import to
compare prices, plus shipping of course).
>
> Thanks
>
Gordon
> Dublin, Ireland
> 1993 Japanese Import VR4
>
http://fly.to/mr2.ie>
> ***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 22:10:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: [Admin]: Back..
Well, PacBell fessed up to a severe mass DSL
outage today after it died on
me Wednesday night...
Thier lack of
planning for thier DSL carrier hardware came to roost when
the power outages
fried about 5,000 line cards that supply DSL to the
last-mile
copper.
Instead of a mass fix, they were only replacing hardware as
complaints
came in..so I screamed for _5_ days.
Good news:
Went
to Thunderhill. I mentally wanted to compete with a F355 Ferarri,
and a
massively built Lingenfelter Firebird..theyre both friends at work
with
course experience..one an IMSA driver.
Better news:
The new 17x10
CCW wheels, on the 275 kumhos at 30psi just freakin
rocked...I drove the tar
outta em (for what I could..read more later) and
for about 8 very very hard
laps, I had no scrub, and hadnt yet found the
cornering capacity of the
combination. I also opted to use 3/4" spacers
up front to completely
remove the tracking differences in the car (1"
narrower in front than
rear..this creates understeer) and 1/2" extra to
induce some oversteer that I
could control easier with tire
pressures..than understeer. With the
offset and wheel dimensions I gave,
I had about 1.5-2" of tire outside each
fenderwell, and had to bang up the
knife-edge of sheet metal over the rear
tires...check your cars..its
there.
BEST news:
For my 8 good
laps, I was right smack on both the firebird and the
Ferarri..the Firebird
however had significant horsepower, and the long
straights he was able to
take about 10-15yds away from me each lap. The
Big Red brake
upgrade..also worked great. I NEVER found the edge of
braking in the 8
laps I was out (granted I could have used a dozen more to
really tune in
where/how I could brake/turn most effectively). The VR4,
and
myself..were wholeheartedly congratulated for a much better than
expected
performance, and my passenger and instructor had no advice to
give..other
than he cant wait to see some suspention on the car..he was
grinning like a
SOB...the quality of performance was NOT expected.
The bad
news:
Major, massive, terminal overheating took place...lost the
motor.
Lap 7, no probs, check the guage again in back straight of lap 8,
its thru
the roof..and the last half of the course basically coasting barely
nudges
it down. Lots of heater and idling in the paddock brings it down
to
normal...but over 2200rpm theres a loud hammering.
I belive its a
wrist pin..idles perfectly, but knocks like hell above
that.
The EVC-4
was set for 1b, and water injection was installed and
worked
flawlessly.
*shrug* Just means I get to tear it down now
*grin*
Can anyone suggest a building in the SF Bay area? I dont
have the
gumption to pull this myself and put it back..and would rather give
it to
someone now..discuss what I want, and go write a check and take it back
in
3-4 months when its done.
Any references in CA would be
great.
I would like a sustainable 20psi motor, and suggestions for a
monster
radiator would be handy.
The expected news:
The
porterfield CD rotors, cracked at the hub after only that few laps.
Will be
using cryo'd stockers next time around IMHO..unless Brad/Merritt
has another
rotor suggestion I can use with the Big
Reds.
Thanks!
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 00:39:14
-0500
From: "Scott F." <
scottf@binary.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Getting Rims re-chromed
If I wanted to get a couple of original VR4 rims
re-chromed where is the
best place to get it done and how much does it
cost.
A while back someone talked about a place in Arizona that does them
for $100
a rim.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 00:40:47
-0500
From: "Scott F." <
scottf@binary.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Paint for wipers
What is the paint used on the front and rear wiper arms
?
Lacquer or enamel ? What can I buy off the shelf to repaint worn
spots.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 08:46:55
+0200
From: "Robby (fs)" <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HKS boost controller? Good/bad/indifferent
>I've finally found
someone up in Northern Ireland that can supply and
>fit a boost controller
and stuff. Only thing is I have only 1 option, an
>HKS EVC4 electronic
controller with a Fuel-Cut defender.
First, this is extremely expensive
as the controller is available in the US
for around $600 (also expensive).
Get a Blitz DSBC for around $450 or Apexi
S-AVC-R for around $550.
Installation (well done) is about an hour for the
Blitz and about 2 for the
Apexi. Usually a garage charges $80 per hour here
in Europe.
Second,
a Fuel Cut defencer doesn't work on our cars (thought I told you
that
already, as it's not a Toyota)
>getting the HKS N2 exhaust at the same
time
If you need it ... it doesn't help power-wise.
>"Super
PowerFlow free-flow induction system with twin filters £215.00 1
>hour
Fitting time"
Whatever this should be. Sounds like the overpriced HKS
stuff.
>Anyone think this is steep or there is a better
option?
Yes, there are better opinions.
>Can anyone supply to
Ireland (add 4.7%duty then add 21% VAT onto the
>price for the import to
compare prices, plus shipping of course).
Of course VAT and shipping is
your stuff but a) shipping is not that
expensive (well the exhaust is of
course) and b) VAT can be reduced with
the help of a fake bill for a value
of about $45.56 or so.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 08:52:53
+0200
From: "Robby (fs)" <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question for Japanese owners
>Note for US owners: 3000GT in
Japan is called Mitsu GTO
Yes, yes, we know. It is also called GTO in
Australia. AFAIK, we do no have
japanese members on the list.
>I
was speaking (ok mailing) with Brad Bedell the other day and he
was
>saying that he thought that the Japanese VR4 GTOs were fitted with
the
>13G turbo as standard.
No, only the European ones. This due to
our higher speeds we are allowed to
drive at. I'm not sure about the UK ones
as I've never seen a turbo. But
you can look closely onto your front turbo
close to the rubber intake.
There is a long number in the cast. Let me know
what it reads and I can
tell you the size.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 13:47:21
-0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Somewhat off-topic - Fuel Injection question
My 94 Transam was
SFI. It refers to how the injectors are fired. If
individually
fired, just before the intake stroke event, it is considered
SFI. In
multiport or MFI systems, the injectors are fired in banks
of
injectors. SFI usually gives better mileage and MFI usually provides
a more
torquey engine. However, I do not know if this is strictly a
function of
fuel delivery, or a difference in the design of the
manifolds.
Sam 95 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
AABOMB1@aol.com <
AABOMB1@aol.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, June 13, 2000 5:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: Somewhat off-topic - Fuel
Injection question
>Ok, this is somewhat off-topic because I don't
it was ever features in the
>3/S cars, but I was just wondering if someone
here can give me an
explanation
>of "sequential multi-point fuel
injection" - i.e. and explnation of how it
>works and the advantages it
offers.
>
>This, I believe, is features in cars like the Diamante
and the new
Maxima
>
>
>
>AA
>
>-------------------
>E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.com>Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 13:51:27
-0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need instructions for gutting pre-cats / ATR Downpipe
I can spin
my 4-tires with the downpipe (Stillen) and cannot without it. I
believe
its cause the turbos spool quicker and I can overpower the tires off
the line
before the car has a chance to roll.
Sam 95 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Michael <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To:
'Eddie' <
stealth3@superservers.net>;
'Team3S List'
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, June 13, 2000 8:47 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need instructions for
gutting pre-cats / ATR Downpipe
>I recently put the ATR DP on my
98 VR4 with a test pipe. I can definately
>tell a difference.
Peak HP seems about the same, but the curve is much
>higher. I don't
have cold hard facts like a dyno test, but I find myself
>having to
feather the throttle in corners I used to run WOT. I can
also
>notice a little loss of low end torque, but nothing to worry
about. My
>other mods are DSBC at 1.00 bar, K&N FIPK, and Borla
Exhaust. I also have
>NOT gutted the pre-cats, just replaced the
main cat with a test
pipe.
>
>Michael
>
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Eddie
>Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 18:32
>To: 'Team3S
List'
>Subject: Team3S: Need instructions for gutting pre-cats / ATR
Downpipe
>
>
>Does anyone have these instructions
handy?
>
>Does anyone use the ATR downpipe? - Will I notice a large
improvement with
>this (and gutted cats) - over our stock downpipe? - or
should I save my
>money and only gut the
pre-cats?
>
>Thanks.
>Eddie
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 06:05:27
-0500
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <
kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
I'm new to this list. Could someone tell the best/cheapest place to
buy
a K&N FIPK for a 92 SL?
- --
Dale T.
Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 05:21:53
PDT
From: "Zentelis none" <
zentelis@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: upgrades help
Mabey some of you remember me asking where to look
for Stealth TT's for sale
and finally I'm in a position to get one. (in July
in fact). I'm just not
the kind of guy who likes stock (unless it's a stock
hemi cuda or
charger r/t ;)). I'm pretty inexperienced at all this and would
love some
opinions on the best turbo/intercooler/exhaust/etc upgrades. I
don't plan on
upgrading for another few months yet so I can do alot of
research. A
starting point would be greatly appreciated..an upgrades
"tutorial" as it
were. Thanks in advance!
-
-Aaron
________________________________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:37:27
+0200
From: Robby <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need instructions for gutting pre-cats / ATR Downpipe
>I can
spin my 4-tires with the downpipe (Stillen) and cannot without it.
I
>believe its cause the turbos spool quicker and I can overpower the
tires off
>the line before the car has a chance to roll.
These are
only the front wheels that are spinning due to the 55% rear
traction we have
and the time the viscous coupling needs to tranfer power.
It is possible on
wet and slippery or very "non-sticking" roads, otherwise
your tranny would
break faster than all wheels can couple together !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 09:04:02
-0400
From: Jeff Schwartz <
jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sumitomo tires?
Hi Matt,
I just bought
the HTZ II's about 1 month ago. They are great for the
price and look
awesome, but I have to say that the handling is not as
good as the original
tires which were the Yokohoma's. The tire size is
245-40ZR18 (the stock
size for the 95 VR4). The car sort of over shoots
now, when I make an
aggressive move on the highway. I paid $180/tire
from my local place,
which is the same price as
www.tirerack.com.
- --
Jeff
Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, Magnecors, Redline
Fluids
Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> Anyone tried the
Sumitomo HTR Z II tires? I'm thinking of getting a set and was wondering
if anyone had tried them and whether or not they sucked. My driving is
mostly highway driving, with an autocross about once a month during non-winter
times.
>
> What sort of sizes will fit on the 17" wheels without
hitting suspension components? I looked for a FAQ, but didn't find
one. Maybe I can whip one up with whatever answers I get.
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/sumitomo/su_htrz_2.jsp>
> I currently have a set of the Firestone Firehawk SZ's on the car and
they can be pretty loud with the top down... That's really the only thing
I don't like about those. The wear was good on them, about 25,000 miles
and a number of autocrosses.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 07:10:36
-0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: [Admin]: Back..
Geoff,
Try BRE in San Jose. I don't
have their number, but they are in the book. I have heard good things about
them. They have done a lot of European imoprts, and a couple DSM's/3S cars.
Anyway, good luck, and let me know where you take the car!
Dan
Jett
94 Stealth TT
>>> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> -
6/20/00 10:10 PM >>>
Can anyone suggest a building in the SF Bay
area? I dont have the
gumption to pull this myself and put it back..and
would rather give it to
someone now..discuss what I want, and go write a
check and take it back in
3-4 months when its done.
Any references in
CA would be great.
I would like a sustainable 20psi motor, and
suggestions for a monster
radiator would be
handy.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 08:33:35
-0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: [Admin]: Back..
Ive been told to call BRE by a few ppl now..am
trying to find thier number as
the one I have found is
disconnected.
Thanks!!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Daniel Jett [
mailto:djett@corp.ultratech.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, June 21, 2000 7:11 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
gemohler@www.speedtoys.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: [Admin]: Back..
Geoff,
Try BRE in San Jose. I
don't have their number, but they are in the book. I have
heard good things
about them. They have done a lot of European imoprts, and a
couple DSM's/3S
cars.
Anyway, good luck, and let me know where you take the
car!
Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT
>>> Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> -
6/20/00 10:10 PM >>>
Can anyone suggest a building in the SF Bay
area? I dont have the
gumption to pull this myself and put it back..and
would rather give it to
someone now..discuss what I want, and go write a
check and take it back in
3-4 months when its done.
Any references in
CA would be great.
I would like a sustainable 20psi motor, and
suggestions for a monster
radiator would be
handy.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 09:11:56
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sumitomo tires?
My '91 VR4 has about 28K on Firestone SZ50
with a little track time (I'll need
to replace them soon). I think they
are very quite compared to the Yokohama
502's that were on it when I bought
it and compared to many cheap tires in other
cars I ride in. I have
275/40/17 on stock rims. With Eibach Pro-Kit springs
and proper
alignment, there is no rubbing. I had minor but tolerable rubbing
on
stock springs. Other brands might have different "profiles" so their
275's
might rub.
Folks in the past have commented favorably on the
Sumitomo HTRZ's but I don't
remember any details.
Good
luck.
Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> Anyone tried the Sumitomo HTR
Z II tires? I'm thinking of getting a set and was wondering if anyone had
tried them and whether or not they sucked. My driving is mostly highway
driving, with an autocross about once a month during non-winter times.
>
> What sort of sizes will fit on the 17" wheels without hitting
suspension components? I looked for a FAQ, but didn't find one.
Maybe I can whip one up with whatever answers I get.
>
>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/sumitomo/su_htrz_2.jsp>
> I currently have a set of the Firestone Firehawk SZ's on the car and
they can be pretty loud with the top down... That's really the only thing
I don't like about those. The wear was good on them, about 25,000 miles
and a number of autocrosses.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn
signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 09:18:14
-0700
From: Leonard Dy <
LDy@acssys.com>
Subject: Team3S: sport
springs install info needed
Hello everyone....
I've done some
research and decided that the lowering spring install can be
a DIY
project. The question I have regards the bump stops. I have not
come
up with any info pertaining to the issue of trimming them. Do they need
to
be trimmed and by how much? The springs I'm going to install are the
RS*R.
Is there anything else I should be aware of before attempting this
project
this weekend? Any and all advice is appreciated.
Thanks
for your time,
Len
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 09:40:10
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Bay Area motor installer (was: [Admin]: Back...)
I don't know what
they charge, but Frey Racing in MountainView gets my
vote... Since they
work on Winston Cup cars, I'd trust them any day for
squeezing every last bit
of HP out of your car. They're in the book,
and have a website:
www.freyracing.com . Good
luck!
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original Message ----- From:
<
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
<
djett@corp.ultratech.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
>
Ive been told to call BRE by a few ppl now..am trying to find thier
number
as
> the one I have found is disconnected.
>
>
Thanks!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel Jett
[
mailto:djett@corp.ultratech.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 7:11 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: [Admin]: Back..
>
>
>
Geoff,
>
> Try BRE in San Jose. I don't have their number, but they
are in the
book. I have
> heard good things about them. They have done
a lot of European
imoprts, and a
> couple DSM's/3S
cars.
>
> Anyway, good luck, and let me know where you take the
car!
>
> Dan Jett
> 94 Stealth TT
>
>
>
>>> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> -
6/20/00 10:10 PM >>>
>
> Can anyone suggest a building in
the SF Bay area? I dont have the
> gumption to pull this myself and
put it back..and would rather give it
to
> someone now..discuss what I
want, and go write a check and take it
back in
> 3-4 months when its
done.
>
> Any references in CA would be great.
>
> I
would like a sustainable 20psi motor, and suggestions for a monster
>
radiator would be handy.
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:04:25
-0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: sport springs install info needed
> be trimmed and by how
much? The springs I'm going to install are the RS*R.
> Is there
anything else I should be aware of before attempting this project
> this
weekend? Any and all advice is appreciated.
Below is an old post
that should help you out. Have fun!
- -------- Original Message
--------
Subject: Team3S: Changing struts, was: GAB Sport strut
prices
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 11:23:12 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comOrganization:
General Atomics - Fusion Division
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comReferences:
<
3.0.32.19990330082735.012e7374@dmv.com>
<
3700D428.EEEC64FD@ibm.net>
>
Is changing the struts something someone with average hand tools can do
>
at home?
I recently changed my struts and springs myself. I used
the
instructions from the posts below. I was planning on rewritting
the
instructions for the do-it-yourselfer but haven't gotten around to
it
yet. However, here are a few pointers.
Note the position of
the front camber adjustment bolts before you loosen
them.
I removed
the front assemblies, then took them to a local tire shop
(with a spring
compressor) to swap the hardware. It cost $40. You
could rent a
spring compressor and do it yourself but this is very
dangerous!
For the rear struts top mount, I used a small pipe wrench to hold
the
large washer with 'flats', then used a wrench to turn the nut. If
you
use a wrench to hold the strut shaft instead of the large washer,
you
will bung up the threads on the ECS strut.
Note that the rear
strut lower mount hole is flared, so put it on the
flared stud
correctly.
When installing the rear top mount, pull the metal spacer
(that fits on
the strut shaft) up so that it sits only halfway into the top
rubber
bushing. Then place the lower washer over spacer. Next,
place the top
washer and nut on. The top washer will rest on the spacer
while the
bottom washer will fit around the spacer. Thus when you
tighten the
nut, the spacer will be pushed all the way to the stop and you
will
assured that the lower washer will be around the spacer instead
of
offset and resting on the top of the spacer.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ------- Included file from Henri Feusi
-------------
ATTENTION:
You _DO_NOT_
need a spring compressor to replace the rear struts.
You can replace the struts in about 30
minutes(15min a piece).
I have done this twice(during intermission while watching a
Penguins
Hockety Game), and it is extremely simple.
Do the
following:
1. Place a
standard 2 ton hydraulic shop jack(the one with the long
handle) directly under the lower arm on your rear
end of your
suspension - make sure it is a solid
point.
2. Jack the car
up until the wheel is off the ground - you will
have
to jack quite a bit since you are jacking the car
up on the
suspension, and the spring is
compressing.
***
IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP*** Place a jack stand raised to the proper
level under the regular jack point on the car
****
3. At this point,
remove the wheel(you might want to crack the lugs
on
the ground before jacking if you don't have an air
impact wrench).
4. Now,
from inside the car, remove the strut covers in the trunk
located under the roll-up tarp.
5. Remove the rubber
dust cup, tehn unplug the wiring harnes from
the
strut.
6. Loosen the
BIG nut on the strut - you may require two wrenches
to
do this, one to keep the center from rotating, and
one to do the
work.
Do this slowly just to
be safe(if you did not compress the spring
enough,
you may experience a surprise :)- completely remove
the
nut.
7. Go back under the car, and remove the bolt
holding the strut in
place. Once removed, you may
require a bit of prying effor to get
the
strut
to slide off the lower mount.
8. Once the strut is off the lower mount, you'r
done! Slide it out
and
you are ready to put the
new one in.
OPTIONAL - but cool
looking.
** If you wish
to check/paint your springs(Yellow is always nice),
this is a good time to lower the jack slowly(leave the jack stand
in
place). The spring will decompress and you can
simply remove that
as
well.***
Installation is reversal of
removal.
NOTES:
Mitsubishi replaced their struts after 92 with a
"one size fits
all"
model. There is a TSB
on this, and and easy fix. The 91(92
too?)'VR4's
had a small spacer installed under the retaining nut,
this
was removed on later models because the strut is
just a little
shorter. You cannot buy the older
struts anymore, so you are stuck
with the shorter
ones. - This is not a problem, just discard the
spacer and you'll be OK.
While you are at it, I recommend purchasing new
Rubber stops -
these
get worn pretty bad, and if
they are torn, they are no good.
Should
be
small $$ at a mitsu dealer.
I can provide picture
of the strut installtion if anyone requires
them.
It's a SIMPLE and
SAFE procedure.
H.
- ---------------- Included file from Jose
----------------
Henry,
First of all, thanks for the post about
the rear struts.
Now, for the front ECS struts:
1) loosen lug
nuts, raise front and put on jack stands (for
safety),
remove
wheel.
2) Open your hood, remove the 3 nuts on the
strut assembly, remove the
rubber
dust cover. Now you'll see the ECS
electrical connector. Just pull it
straight
out, do not
rotate.
3) Now for the bottom part, using a breaker bar or something
similar (I
used a
1/2" socket wrench with a 4 ft long tube attached to it
for more
torque!!!)
remove the two nuts that attach the struts to the
brake assembly. Use a
lot of
WD-40 and let it soak for about 15
min.
4) To remove the bolts just tap them out with a hammer. NOTE: Before
you
tap
this bolts out, remove all the brackets that attach the brake
lines to
the strut
assembly.
5) Now you should be able to move
back and forth the strut assembly
until it
comes out of the brake
assembly.
With the proper breaker bar (4 ft long in my case! :) )
it took me
about 40
minutes to remove the first one, and about 10 to 15
min for the second
one
because I already knew how to do it.
Good
luck!
- -Jose
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your
turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#171
*********************