team3s
Tuesday, June 20
2000
Volume 01 : Number
170
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 06:11:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Putting Engine back together, need help
For '93 and newer
engines, the CAS/CAS are in/on/near the block
(according to the manual).
Since you are putting a '93 block in your
'92, maybe you will have have to
reroute the wiring from the old
position (near the TB) to the new one? Or
maybe just not install the
'93+ CAS and use the stock one? I don't know
particulars, but Joe
Gronsowski (Joe G. on 3SI msg board) has done this
(4-bolt block into
'91-'92 engine) and offers some good advice at the URL
below, if you
haven't read it yet. I also wonder if the sensors themselves
might be
different in the number of signals sent to the ECU per
revolution?
http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/006035.htmlPlease
let us all know how this turns out.
PS. My car was out for 16 months (for
a variety of reasons) during
the rebuild. I think Jack T. may hold this
record though.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Chris
Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>;
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 13, 2000 9:40 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Putting Engine back
together, need help
You're okay. Those sensors are for the 93+
cars.
Your car has the two sensors combined on the round sensor next to
the
throttle body.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Chris Maxwell
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 5:45 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Putting Engine back together, need help
Hey guys. I have a
92 Stealth TT and I'm putting a new engine (4
bolt main) into the car and I'm
a little confused. I just put the
timing belt on and adjusted it and
put the lower cover on. The
manual then says to connect the crankshaft
and camshaft position
sensors. I don't remember seeing these sensors
when I took the
engine out and I then noticed in the manual that it says that
this
relates to the 93 and up cars. So am I to understand that
these
sensors are not required for my car and therefore were never
present?
I searched through all the parts on the ground and didn't
see
anything that looked like these sensors, or any wires in the
engine
that would hook up to these sensors. So I'm pretty sure that
they
were never on my car but I wanted to stop and check first with
you
guys before I put anything else back on the car.
Thanks
again,
Chris
92 R/T TT (out of commission for 3 months, but the nightmare
is
almost
over...knock on
wood)
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:08:45 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Syncros are now available! - well sort of
I already posted this
on 3SI.com lastnight.
After hearing rumors from Auto Sports Unlimited
(excellent transmission
shop near Grand Rapids MI), I followed up with Frank
at Kormex and found
out it's for real.
Kormex (800-429-5464) will be
offering the middle syncro ring for first
and second gear on our AWD
transaxles (not sure if this also applies to
the 6 speed trans). I'm
told this is typically the portion of the
syncro to go first. Kormex
will publish details when the price is
decided (Frank didn't object to me
posting this email).
I'm sure the prices will make it worthwhile for
Kormex, but
none-the-less good news for us. I'm hoping they will come
in under
$100/gear.
Slo Joe
'92 R/T TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:02:57 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Putting Engine back together, need help
Jeff Lucius
wrote:
> For '93 and newer engines, the CAS/CAS are in/on/near the
block
> (according to the manual). Since you are putting a '93 block in
your
> '92, maybe you will have have to reroute the wiring from the
old
> position (near the TB) to the new one?
You have two options,
reuse your '92 heads to work with your current
wiring harness or upgrade the
harness and perhaps ECU. I'm keeping the
'92 heads on my 4 bolt block
which makes it an easy swap. Here's the
difference:
'91 &
'92 - uses one sensor located near throttle body that reads at back
of rear
bank (left bank) intake cam. By knowing cam position, it knows
crank
position and piston position (assuming cams are timed correctly
w.r.t.
crank). So this one cam sensor knows crank position and whether
a
piston is TDC firing or TDC overlap.
'93 and later - two sensors, a
crank position sensor located at the crank
sprocket and a cam position sensor
located at cam sprocket (I believe the
rear bank exhaust cam) now do the
job. Together, they can determine more
than the old sensor alone.
Now they can determine exact cam and crank
position more quickly for quicker
start-up as well as determine if the
cam being measured has skipped a tooth
etc. and will shut the engine down
(of course it only knows the cam it is
reading and not the other three).
> Or maybe just not install
the
> '93+ CAS and use the stock one? I don't know particulars, but
Joe
> Gronsowski (Joe G. on 3SI msg board) has done this (4-bolt block
into
> '91-'92 engine) and offers some good advice at the URL below, if
you
> haven't read it yet. I also wonder if the sensors themselves might
be
> different in the number of signals sent to the ECU per
revolution?
This is correct, you cannot get your old wiring harness
(single sensor)
to send the correct information from two sensors. I'm
certain the ECU
will be confused as well.
>
http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/006035.htmlThis
link doesn't shed anymore light on this issue.
> Please let us all
know how this turns out.
>
> PS. My car was out for 16 months (for a
variety of reasons) during
> the rebuild. I think Jack T. may hold this
record though.
>
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
> Red 1992 Stealth TT
- modified
> -->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/My
rebuild has taken 2 months already and is still occurring. I hope to
be
back on the road before the snow hits the ground. Too many
upgrades,
but it's worth it.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
My
homepage
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:16:01 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Viscous Coupling
I am in need of a viscous coupling for my 18
spline 5 speed. I know
this board isn't supposed to be used solely as a
parts needed / for sale
postings, so I offer the following bit of advice to
AWD owners:
Do not launch hard and accelerate under full power on bumpy
roads. I'm
quite sure that is what failed my viscous unit. The
loading and
unloading of the wheels (front and rear) must have placed extreme
forces
on the viscous unit until failure occurred. I'm sure the higher
output
of my car did not help the situation.
Anyways, I now need a new
unit, I've tried many of the typical spots
including Kormex, Auto Sports
Unlimited, Drivetrain Specialists, and
have left messages with MD auto and
TransmissionMart.
For more details, reference:
http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/007037.htmlAny
leads would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:25:41 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Syncros are now available! - well sort of
Frank Martin at
Kormex just made it official, 1st and 2nd gear assemblies
are available for
both 5 and 6 speed AWD trannies for $125 each. Check it
out:
http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/007034.htmlJoe
Gonsowski wrote:
> I already posted this on 3SI.com
lastnight.
>
> After hearing rumors from Auto Sports Unlimited
(excellent transmission
> shop near Grand Rapids MI), I followed up with
Frank at Kormex and found
> out it's for real.
>
> Kormex
(800-429-5464) will be offering the middle syncro ring for first
> and
second gear on our AWD transaxles (not sure if this also applies to
> the
6 speed trans). I'm told this is typically the portion of the
>
syncro to go first. Kormex will publish details when the price is
>
decided (Frank didn't object to me posting this email).
>
> I'm sure
the prices will make it worthwhile for Kormex, but
> none-the-less good
news for us. I'm hoping they will come in under
>
$100/gear.
>
> Slo Joe
> '92 R/T TT
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:56:25 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???
Guys,
Damn, I can't
believe it. I have removed the pulley on about three cars in
the garage with
the air tool always successfully but on mine at home I just
can't get the
damn bolt off !!!!!!
What tricks have you done to it to get it off ? Was
the car on the ground
with 1st gear ? Or did you use the rag into #1
technology ??
Please let me know as I cannot drive the car down to the
air-tool source :((
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:09:37 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???
Roger,
I think the
only good option is an impact wrench. If you don't have access
to air tools
you can get an electric impact wrench. That's what I used
successfully. The
only other way that I know of is to put a long breaker-bar
and socket on the
bolt and bump the starter. I don't like this option myself
but desperate
times call for desperate measures.
Good luck,
Dan
94 3000GT
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of R.G.
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 4:56 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???
Guys,
Damn, I
can't believe it. I have removed the pulley on about three cars in
the garage
with the air tool always successfully but on mine at home I just
can't get
the damn bolt off !!!!!!
What tricks have you done to it to get it off ?
Was the car on the ground
with 1st gear ? Or did you use the rag into #1
technology ??
Please let me know as I cannot drive the car down to the
air-tool source :((
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:36:17 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: timing belt
> Can the belt be easily replaced
> with the
motor in the car?
Easy is a word you should forget if you want to do
something on our cars !
It can be done but it's really not that easy. Follow
the description in the
workshop manual (or backup CD) and you're fine. But is
really not that easy.
For any damage, on the car I got the heads from
(the belt jumped several
teeths) the valves have been bent (all), some
rockers have been broken and
the cams were scratched too. Also one part
caused a crack in the head but
this was not close to a water or oil channel
at all. A little welding and
the problem was solved. To determine a valve
problem do a simple comrpession
test as this will show you how good the
valves are closing.
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:27:48 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???
Thanks for all the
messages. Unfortunately I didn't told you that the belt
came off with the
heads so the new heads are installed but not the belt. So
cranking the engine
is no option at all ! Even my Mitsu garage doesn't have
the special pulley
holder and I try to get an electric impact wrench
tomorrow. Well, these are
tools that are not easy to find here
:(
Thanks
Roger
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:50:44 -0500
From: "Scott F." <
scottf@binary.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Bright Red 1994 VR4 for sale
- -1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
- -57,000
Miles, Red w/Black interior
- -320 HP Twin Turbo, AWD, AWS, ECS, Active
Aero
- -Active Suspension, Premium chrome wheels (VR4 Stock)
- -BF
Goodrich Comp T/A 245/45 ZR 17 tires (3K miles ago)
- -Replaced brakes &
rotors (3K miles ago)
- -Made Mitsubishi replace the Getrag 6 speed at 35K
miles
- -Replaced clutch when transmission was replaced.
- -Made
Mitsubishi replace the active exhaust at 30K miles (entire passenger
side pipe/muffler/switch) since it wasn't switching to tour mode (quiet)
-
-Made Mitsubishi replace ALL valve lash adjusters (3K miles ago)
- -Car has
been professionally polished and detailed w/finish warranty
The car looks
brand new !!! and doesn't have the goofy curved wing like the
98/99
VR4's.
The car is DEFINITELY worth $22K but I want to get it
sold.
Since the 60K service has not been done (only 57K miles on it) I
decided to
drop my asking price to make up for it.
Asking $19,995 or
best offer.
Make me some offers.....
.......................then I can
sell it before I talk myself into keeping
it (and the big $
payment)
Call (402)476-9470 after 6PM or e-mail back
Scott
Farwell, Lincoln NE
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:29:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Email outage
Due to a seasonal..well hell..HISTORICALLY ugly high
temp of 108 in San
Jose today two things happened.
My Network
Appliance RAID farm sent me Email bitching about being 140d
surface
temperature inside its drive arrays..but before it could shut
itself down as
a failsafe...PG&E cut power to our 'hood.
The area here is suffering
major brownouts, and the Elec. Co is doing
pre-emptive "random" blackouts to
approx 35-40,000 residents at a time
here to keep the entire grid from
failing.
This cost me power for all my servers for 2 hours, after which
some
hardware was too warm to boot safely.
Temps in the house are down
to about 92-94 now, and everything is back up
and running well.
I will
be relocating some hardware to the core of the house to prevent
heat related
outages..but I simply do not have enough UPS to cover a
dictated
black-out.
So please bear with me..the list runs like a scream..but if
the SF Bay
area on your weathermap is showing 95-100+ temps, there may be
temporary
outages.
Thanks..and sorry at the same
time.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:58:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Email outage
More fun info...power just went out again..2nd
random black-out tonight
(due to load, not enforced im
sure).
*sigh*
On Wed, 14 Jun 2000, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
Due to a seasonal..well hell..HISTORICALLY ugly high temp of 108 in San
>
Jose today two things happened.
>
> My Network Appliance
RAID farm sent me Email bitching about being 140d
> surface temperature
inside its drive arrays..but before it could shut
> itself down as a
failsafe...PG&E cut power to our 'hood.
>
> The area here is
suffering major brownouts, and the Elec. Co is doing
> pre-emptive
"random" blackouts to approx 35-40,000 residents at a time
> here to keep
the entire grid from failing.
>
> This cost me power for all my
servers for 2 hours, after which some
> hardware was too warm to boot
safely.
>
> Temps in the house are down to about 92-94 now, and
everything is back up
> and running well.
>
> I will be
relocating some hardware to the core of the house to prevent
> heat
related outages..but I simply do not have enough UPS to cover a
> dictated
black-out.
>
> So please bear with me..the list runs like a
scream..but if the SF Bay
> area on your weathermap is showing 95-100+
temps, there may be temporary
> outages.
>
> Thanks..and
sorry at the same time.
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:11:08 CDT
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???
Roger, I'm
assuming that you are talking about the crank pulley/harmonic
balancer
bolt??
Well...I've done two 60Ks(my car and another and both times the
bolt came
out with an air wrench).
Although, to torque it properly, I
had to rig up something that may work for
you to get it loose.
I took
my large(14 inch +) channel lock pliers and drilled a hole in each
jaw
towards the end(3/8-1/2"). I then adjusted the pliers so that the holes
would align with the holes in the balancer. I then slid bolts(3/8-1/2"
dia
X 2.3-3" long) though the holes and into the holes in the
pulley. Wallah!
I just fab'd the special tool that the manual
calls out. The handle lays on
the frame of the car and you can
tighten(or loosen) to what ever torque you
want.
Hope this
helps,
Mark (I make my own Mitsu "special" tools)
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
>To: <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???
>Date: Wed, 14 Jun
2000 22:56:25 +0200
>
>Guys,
>
>Damn, I can't believe
it. I have removed the pulley on about three cars in
>the garage with the
air tool always successfully but on mine at home I just
>can't get the
damn bolt off !!!!!!
>
>What tricks have you done to it to get it
off ? Was the car on the ground
>with 1st gear ? Or did you use the rag
into #1 technology ??
>
>Please let me know as I cannot drive the
car down to the air-tool source
>:((
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jun 2000 19:07:48 -0400
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@iname.com>
Subject:
Re:Team3S:Brake Advice
Hi Rich,
Yep. Ya did a great job on
the BRAKE post. Some people just don't
(want to) understand that it
takes BIG BRAKES to repeatedly stop a 4000#
car. The material in the
rotor or pad is NOT the issue. The AMOUNT of
material matters. ie
the new AWD Lamborghini Diablo 6.0 has 14" rotors
and it weighs about
3900#. The total swept area is 603 sq in or swept
area/ton is 307
sq in. Daaaa Wonder what a 92 TT/VR4
has for
swept area??? Maybe that # will tell a tale.
Well the
Diablo may have a slightly higher top end. But 1/4 mile time
is only 12
@119.
Sorry I left you out of the loop about some research I've done
on
different rotors. Porsche had displayed a pre-production
Ceramic
composite disc and pad system (future option for the 2000+ 911
Turbo).
I'm still after a reasonable cost thicker rotor. Also
the current
Porsche rotors have CAST holes (not drilled thru a blank) which
lessens
the opportunity for crack initiation.
For pictures of brake
cooling ducts & components see:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/4538/secrets.htmllook
for BRAKE COOLING DUCTS
Be of good cheer,
John
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche brakes &
Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 18 Jun 2000 10:01:21 -0500
From: "Scott F." <
scottf@binary.net>
Subject: Team3S:
1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 for Sale
I am sending this out again for
those of you that missed it. I apologize if
I am filling up anybodys mailbox
since I am submitting it to 3 of the
stealth/3000GT lists)
- -1994
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 (Completely Stock & Mitsubishi serviced)
- -56,650
Miles, Red w/Black interior, Fullsize sunroof/moonroof w/crank
(VR4
Stock)
- -320 HP Twin Turbo, All Wheel Drive, All Wheel Steering (VR4
Stock)
- - Electronically Controlled Suspension, Active Aero (VR4 Stock)
-
- Non-popup halogen headlights & halogen fog lights (VR4 Stock)
- -Active
Suspension, Premium chrome wheels (VR4 Stock)
- -BF Goodrich Comp T/A 245/45
ZR 17 tires (3K miles ago due to wear)
- -Replaced brakes & rotors (3K
miles ago due to wear) (Mitsubishi Stock)
- - Mitsubishi replaced the Getrag
6 speed with a new one at 35K miles
(trouble shifting)
- -Mitsubishi
Replaced clutch assembly when the transmission was replaced.
- -Made
Mitsubishi replace the active exhaust at 30K miles (entire passenger
side pipe/muffler/switch) since it wasn't switching to tour mode (quiet)
-
-Mitsubishi replaced ALL valve lash adjusters (3K miles ago) (for
engine
ticking sound)
- -Car has been professionally polished and detailed
w/finish warranty (you
have to see it)
The car looks brand new !!!
Runs and sounds like new !!!
The car is DEFINITELY worth $22K but I want
to get it sold.
Since the 60K service has not been done (only 56+K miles on
it) I decided to
drop my asking price to make up for it.
Asking
$19,995 or best offer.
Make me some
offers.....
.......................then I can sell it before
I talk myself into keeping
it.
(and the big $600 payment)
Call (402)476-9470 Any time or e-mail
back
Scott Farwell, Lincoln NE
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#170
*********************