team3s             Tuesday, June 20 2000             Volume 01 : Number 170




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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 06:11:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Putting Engine back together, need help

For '93 and newer engines, the CAS/CAS are in/on/near the block
(according to the manual). Since you are putting a '93 block in your
'92, maybe you will have have to reroute the wiring from the old
position (near the TB) to the new one? Or maybe just not install the
'93+ CAS and use the stock one? I don't know particulars, but Joe
Gronsowski (Joe G. on 3SI msg board) has done this (4-bolt block into
'91-'92 engine) and offers some good advice at the URL below, if you
haven't read it yet. I also wonder if the sensors themselves might be
different in the number of signals sent to the ECU per revolution?

http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/006035.html

Please let us all know how this turns out.

PS. My car was out for 16 months (for a variety of reasons) during
the rebuild. I think Jack T. may hold this record though.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>;
<team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 9:40 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Putting Engine back together, need help

You're okay.  Those sensors are for the 93+ cars.

Your car has the two sensors combined on the round sensor next to the
throttle body.


Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Chris Maxwell
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 5:45 PM
To: team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Putting Engine back together, need help

Hey guys.  I have a 92 Stealth TT and I'm putting a new engine (4
bolt main) into the car and I'm a little confused.  I just put the
timing belt on and adjusted it and put the lower cover on.  The
manual then says to connect the crankshaft and camshaft position
sensors.  I don't remember seeing these sensors when I took the
engine out and I then noticed in the manual that it says that this
relates to the 93 and up cars.  So am I to understand that these
sensors are not required for my car and therefore were never present?
I searched through all the parts on the ground and didn't see
anything that looked like these sensors, or any wires in the engine
that would hook up to these sensors.  So I'm pretty sure that they
were never on my car but I wanted to stop and check first with you
guys before I put anything else back on the car.

Thanks again,
Chris
92 R/T TT (out of commission for 3 months, but the nightmare is
almost
over...knock on wood)



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:08:45 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Syncros are now available! - well sort of

I already posted this on 3SI.com lastnight.

After hearing rumors from Auto Sports Unlimited (excellent transmission
shop near Grand Rapids MI), I followed up with Frank at Kormex and found
out it's for real.

Kormex (800-429-5464) will be offering the middle syncro ring for first
and second gear on our AWD transaxles (not sure if this also applies to
the 6 speed trans).  I'm told this is typically the portion of the
syncro to go first.  Kormex will publish details when the price is
decided (Frank didn't object to me posting this email).

I'm sure the prices will make it worthwhile for Kormex, but
none-the-less good news for us.  I'm hoping they will come in under
$100/gear.

Slo Joe
'92 R/T TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:02:57 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Putting Engine back together, need help

Jeff Lucius wrote:

> For '93 and newer engines, the CAS/CAS are in/on/near the block
> (according to the manual). Since you are putting a '93 block in your
> '92, maybe you will have have to reroute the wiring from the old
> position (near the TB) to the new one?

You have two options, reuse your '92 heads to work with your current
wiring harness or upgrade the harness and perhaps ECU.  I'm keeping the
'92 heads on my 4 bolt block which makes it an easy swap.  Here's the
difference:

'91 & '92 - uses one sensor located near throttle body that reads at back
of rear bank (left bank) intake cam.  By knowing cam position, it knows
crank position and piston position (assuming cams are timed correctly
w.r.t. crank).  So this one cam sensor knows crank position and whether a
piston is TDC firing or TDC overlap.

'93 and later - two sensors, a crank position sensor located at the crank
sprocket and a cam position sensor located at cam sprocket (I believe the
rear bank exhaust cam) now do the job.  Together, they can determine more
than the old sensor alone.  Now they can determine exact cam and crank
position more quickly for quicker start-up as well as determine if the
cam being measured has skipped a tooth etc. and will shut the engine down
(of course it only knows the cam it is reading and not the other three).

> Or maybe just not install the
> '93+ CAS and use the stock one? I don't know particulars, but Joe
> Gronsowski (Joe G. on 3SI msg board) has done this (4-bolt block into
> '91-'92 engine) and offers some good advice at the URL below, if you
> haven't read it yet. I also wonder if the sensors themselves might be
> different in the number of signals sent to the ECU per revolution?

This is correct, you cannot get your old wiring harness (single sensor)
to send the correct information from two sensors.  I'm certain the ECU
will be confused as well.

> http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/006035.html

This link doesn't shed anymore light on this issue.

> Please let us all know how this turns out.
>
> PS. My car was out for 16 months (for a variety of reasons) during
> the rebuild. I think Jack T. may hold this record though.
>
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
> Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
>   --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

My rebuild has taken 2 months already and is still occurring.  I hope to
be back on the road before the snow hits the ground.  Too many upgrades,
but it's worth it.

Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
 My homepage


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:16:01 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Viscous Coupling

I am in need of a viscous coupling for my 18 spline 5 speed.  I know
this board isn't supposed to be used solely as a parts needed / for sale
postings, so I offer the following bit of advice to AWD owners:

Do not launch hard and accelerate under full power on bumpy roads.  I'm
quite sure that is what failed my viscous unit.  The loading and
unloading of the wheels (front and rear) must have placed extreme forces
on the viscous unit until failure occurred.  I'm sure the higher output
of my car did not help the situation.

Anyways, I now need a new unit, I've tried many of the typical spots
including Kormex, Auto Sports Unlimited, Drivetrain Specialists, and
have left messages with MD auto and TransmissionMart.

For more details, reference:
http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/007037.html

Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:25:41 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Syncros are now available! - well sort of

Frank Martin at Kormex just made it official, 1st and 2nd gear assemblies
are available for both 5 and 6 speed AWD trannies for $125 each.  Check it
out:

http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/007034.html

Joe Gonsowski wrote:

> I already posted this on 3SI.com lastnight.
>
> After hearing rumors from Auto Sports Unlimited (excellent transmission
> shop near Grand Rapids MI), I followed up with Frank at Kormex and found
> out it's for real.
>
> Kormex (800-429-5464) will be offering the middle syncro ring for first
> and second gear on our AWD transaxles (not sure if this also applies to
> the 6 speed trans).  I'm told this is typically the portion of the
> syncro to go first.  Kormex will publish details when the price is
> decided (Frank didn't object to me posting this email).
>
> I'm sure the prices will make it worthwhile for Kormex, but
> none-the-less good news for us.  I'm hoping they will come in under
> $100/gear.
>
> Slo Joe
> '92 R/T TT
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:56:25 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???

Guys,

Damn, I can't believe it. I have removed the pulley on about three cars in
the garage with the air tool always successfully but on mine at home I just
can't get the damn bolt off !!!!!!

What tricks have you done to it to get it off ? Was the car on the ground
with 1st gear ? Or did you use the rag into #1 technology ??

Please let me know as I cannot drive the car down to the air-tool source :((

Roger
93'3000GT TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:09:37 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???

Roger,

I think the only good option is an impact wrench. If you don't have access
to air tools you can get an electric impact wrench. That's what I used
successfully. The only other way that I know of is to put a long breaker-bar
and socket on the bolt and bump the starter. I don't like this option myself
but desperate times call for desperate measures.

Good luck,

Dan
94 3000GT VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of R.G.
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2000 4:56 PM
To: team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???

Guys,

Damn, I can't believe it. I have removed the pulley on about three cars in
the garage with the air tool always successfully but on mine at home I just
can't get the damn bolt off !!!!!!

What tricks have you done to it to get it off ? Was the car on the ground
with 1st gear ? Or did you use the rag into #1 technology ??

Please let me know as I cannot drive the car down to the air-tool source :((

Roger
93'3000GT TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:36:17 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: timing belt

> Can the belt be easily replaced
> with the motor in the car?

Easy is a word you should forget if you want to do something on our cars !
It can be done but it's really not that easy. Follow the description in the
workshop manual (or backup CD) and you're fine. But is really not that easy.

For any damage, on the car I got the heads from (the belt jumped several
teeths) the valves have been bent (all), some rockers have been broken and
the cams were scratched too. Also one part caused a crack in the head but
this was not close to a water or oil channel at all. A little welding and
the problem was solved. To determine a valve problem do a simple comrpession
test as this will show you how good the valves are closing.

Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:27:48 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???

Thanks for all the messages. Unfortunately I didn't told you that the belt
came off with the heads so the new heads are installed but not the belt. So
cranking the engine is no option at all ! Even my Mitsu garage doesn't have
the special pulley holder and I try to get an electric impact wrench
tomorrow. Well, these are tools that are not easy to find here :(

Thanks
Roger


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 23:50:44 -0500
From: "Scott F." <scottf@binary.net>
Subject: Team3S: Bright Red 1994 VR4 for sale

- -1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
- -57,000 Miles, Red w/Black interior
- -320 HP Twin Turbo, AWD, AWS, ECS, Active Aero
- -Active Suspension, Premium chrome wheels (VR4 Stock)
- -BF Goodrich Comp T/A 245/45 ZR 17 tires (3K miles ago)
- -Replaced brakes & rotors (3K miles ago)
- -Made Mitsubishi replace the Getrag 6 speed at 35K miles
- -Replaced clutch when transmission was replaced.
- -Made Mitsubishi replace the active exhaust at 30K miles (entire passenger
  side pipe/muffler/switch) since it wasn't switching to tour mode (quiet)
- -Made Mitsubishi replace ALL valve lash adjusters (3K miles ago)
- -Car has been professionally polished and detailed w/finish warranty

The car looks brand new !!! and doesn't have the goofy curved wing like the
98/99 VR4's.

The car is DEFINITELY worth $22K but I want to get it sold.
Since the 60K service has not been done (only 57K miles on it) I decided to
drop my asking price to make up for it.

Asking $19,995 or best offer.

Make me some offers.....
.......................then I can sell it before I talk myself into keeping
it (and the big $ payment)

Call (402)476-9470 after 6PM or e-mail back

Scott Farwell, Lincoln NE




***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:29:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Email outage

Due to a seasonal..well hell..HISTORICALLY ugly high temp of 108 in San
Jose today two things happened. 

My Network Appliance RAID farm sent me Email bitching about being 140d
surface temperature inside its drive arrays..but before it could shut
itself down as a failsafe...PG&E cut power to our 'hood.

The area here is suffering major brownouts, and the Elec. Co is doing
pre-emptive "random" blackouts to approx 35-40,000 residents at a time
here to keep the entire grid from failing.

This cost me power for all my servers for 2 hours, after which some
hardware was too warm to boot safely.

Temps in the house are down to about 92-94 now, and everything is back up
and running well.

I will be relocating some hardware to the core of the house to prevent
heat related outages..but I simply do not have enough UPS to cover a
dictated black-out.

So please bear with me..the list runs like a scream..but if the SF Bay
area on your weathermap is showing 95-100+ temps, there may be temporary
outages.

Thanks..and sorry at the same time.


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:58:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Email outage

More fun info...power just went out again..2nd random black-out tonight
(due to load, not enforced im sure).

*sigh*

On Wed, 14 Jun 2000, Geoff Mohler wrote:

> Due to a seasonal..well hell..HISTORICALLY ugly high temp of 108 in San
> Jose today two things happened. 
>
> My Network Appliance RAID farm sent me Email bitching about being 140d
> surface temperature inside its drive arrays..but before it could shut
> itself down as a failsafe...PG&E cut power to our 'hood.
>
> The area here is suffering major brownouts, and the Elec. Co is doing
> pre-emptive "random" blackouts to approx 35-40,000 residents at a time
> here to keep the entire grid from failing.
>
> This cost me power for all my servers for 2 hours, after which some
> hardware was too warm to boot safely.
>
> Temps in the house are down to about 92-94 now, and everything is back up
> and running well.
>
> I will be relocating some hardware to the core of the house to prevent
> heat related outages..but I simply do not have enough UPS to cover a
> dictated black-out.
>
> So please bear with me..the list runs like a scream..but if the SF Bay
> area on your weathermap is showing 95-100+ temps, there may be temporary
> outages.
>
> Thanks..and sorry at the same time.
>
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:11:08 CDT
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???

Roger, I'm assuming that you are talking about the crank pulley/harmonic
balancer bolt??

Well...I've done two 60Ks(my car and another and both times the bolt came
out with an air wrench).

Although, to torque it properly, I had to rig up something that may work for
you to get it loose.

I took my large(14 inch +) channel lock pliers and drilled a hole in each
jaw towards the end(3/8-1/2").  I then adjusted the pliers so that the holes
would align with the holes in the balancer.  I then slid bolts(3/8-1/2" dia
X 2.3-3" long) though the holes and into the holes in the pulley.   Wallah!
I just fab'd the special tool that the manual calls out.  The handle lays on
the frame of the car and you can tighten(or loosen) to what ever torque you
want.

Hope this helps,

Mark (I make my own Mitsu "special" tools) Wendlandt
'91RT/TT


>From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
>To: <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: Team3S: Tricks to get the bolt on the pulley off ???
>Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 22:56:25 +0200
>
>Guys,
>
>Damn, I can't believe it. I have removed the pulley on about three cars in
>the garage with the air tool always successfully but on mine at home I just
>can't get the damn bolt off !!!!!!
>
>What tricks have you done to it to get it off ? Was the car on the ground
>with 1st gear ? Or did you use the rag into #1 technology ??
>
>Please let me know as I cannot drive the car down to the air-tool source
>:((
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 19:07:48 -0400
From: "John T. Christian" <jczoom@iname.com>
Subject: Re:Team3S:Brake Advice

Hi Rich,

Yep.  Ya did a great job on the BRAKE post.  Some people just don't
(want to) understand that it takes BIG BRAKES to repeatedly stop a 4000#
car.  The material in the rotor or pad is NOT the issue.  The AMOUNT of
material matters.  ie the new  AWD Lamborghini Diablo 6.0 has 14" rotors
and it weighs about 3900#.   The total swept area is 603 sq in or swept
area/ton is 307 sq in.  Daaaa       Wonder what a 92 TT/VR4 has for
swept area???  Maybe that # will tell a tale.

Well the Diablo may have a slightly higher top end.  But 1/4 mile time
is only 12 @119.

Sorry I left you out of the loop about some research I've done on
different rotors.  Porsche had displayed a pre-production Ceramic
composite disc and pad system (future option for the 2000+ 911 Turbo).


I'm still after a reasonable cost thicker rotor.  Also the current
Porsche rotors have CAST holes (not drilled thru a blank) which lessens
the opportunity for crack initiation.

For pictures of brake cooling ducts & components see:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/4538/secrets.html
look for BRAKE COOLING DUCTS

Be of good cheer,
John


- --
JCZoooM  93 TT 12.46@109Mph   Now with Porsche brakes & Supra rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com 
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 10:01:21 -0500
From: "Scott F." <scottf@binary.net>
Subject: Team3S: 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 for Sale

I am sending this out again for those of you that missed it. I apologize if
I am filling up anybodys mailbox since I am submitting it to 3 of the
stealth/3000GT lists)

- -1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 (Completely Stock & Mitsubishi serviced)
- -56,650 Miles, Red w/Black interior, Fullsize sunroof/moonroof w/crank (VR4
Stock)
- -320 HP Twin Turbo, All Wheel Drive, All Wheel Steering (VR4 Stock)
- - Electronically Controlled Suspension, Active Aero (VR4 Stock)
- - Non-popup halogen headlights & halogen fog lights (VR4 Stock)
- -Active Suspension, Premium chrome wheels (VR4 Stock)
- -BF Goodrich Comp T/A 245/45 ZR 17 tires (3K miles ago due to wear)
- -Replaced brakes & rotors (3K miles ago due to wear) (Mitsubishi Stock)
- - Mitsubishi replaced the Getrag 6 speed with a new one at 35K miles
(trouble shifting)
- -Mitsubishi Replaced clutch assembly when the transmission was replaced.
- -Made Mitsubishi replace the active exhaust at 30K miles (entire passenger
  side pipe/muffler/switch) since it wasn't switching to tour mode (quiet)
- -Mitsubishi replaced ALL valve lash adjusters (3K miles ago) (for engine
ticking sound)
- -Car has been professionally polished and detailed w/finish warranty (you
have to see it)

The car looks brand new !!! Runs and sounds like new !!!

The car is DEFINITELY worth $22K but I want to get it sold.
Since the 60K service has not been done (only 56+K miles on it) I decided to
drop my asking price to make up for it.

Asking $19,995 or best offer.

Make me some offers.....
                            .......................then I can sell it before
I talk myself into keeping it.
(and the big $600 payment)

Call (402)476-9470 Any time or e-mail back

Scott Farwell, Lincoln NE





***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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End of team3s V1 #170
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