team3s
Monday, June 12
2000
Volume 01 : Number
167
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 09:43:01 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New throw-out bearing squeaks
Hi Paul,
This noise is
not the throw-out bearing, it is the transmission. See this
interesting
article
http://www.roadkill.com/~davet/moto/trans.articles.html
that
Vineet found awhile back. It is uncanny how close these symptoms
match our own
trannys.
Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
>
> Just
had a new clutch installed in my '91 VR4. The new throw-out bearing
>
squeaks and clatters just like the old one did. (car at rest - shifter
in
> neutral - foot off clutch pedal - engine idling)
>
>
Squeeking goes away when I just start to depress the clutch pedal, but
the
> rattling doesn't stop untill the clutch pedal is all the way to the
floor.
> Car drives fine otherwise.
>
> 1) Are there any
adjustments to the clutch that will stop the squeeking?
>
> 2) Do
the getrag trannies start to clatter as they age? (mine has about 40k
>
mi.)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Paul Klusman
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
-
--
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 09:54:40 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Pinging Saga: Compression *too high*
First a quick
word of thanks for all the people who've offered help/advice
on and off the
lists in the last week or so. I really appreciate it!
Ok, so I
think I've found why my car is pinging, and I do think the sound is
light
pinging (not that I'm hearing things :) Timing ok, plug gaps all
to
spec, everything looks ok... except
compression(psi):
227, 230,
225, 225, 236, 225 (checked with 2 different gauges)
Spec for a
non-turbo is 185psi with no more than a 14psi range of values.
Octane
booster doesn't make it stop pinging, so I guess I've got a
problem, and I
suppose it's carbon deposits in the cylinders or on the
piston tops.
How high are those readings? The manual gives a lower
boundary, but not
an upper one. How worried should I be? The things I can
think of would
be:
1) run some kind of cleaner through the top end to hopefully
clean it out
2) to remove the pistons, get the carbon off, and put
'em back in.
3) make the octane booster people rich and live with
light pinging
I don't like #3 because I'd like my car to be running
properly:) I wouldn't
try #2 myself at this point, and I'm sure it
would involve many hundreds of
dollars. So is #1 an option? If
so, any recommendations? Someone was
telling me about ATF being a good
thing to run through the intake to clean
things out...but possibly
hydrolocking the engine just doesn't sound fun to
me. Anybody got a web
page on cleaning out carbon deposits? <g>
Thanks!
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
*** No more ticking
lash adjusters(since 07/99)! ***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
67,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 10:18:36 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Screwed up gearing in this car
What's with the fucked up gearing
in this car (5speed). I can lose my
license in 2nd gear.
Is there any
way possible to alter the gearing to a more normal level? I
think it would
help acceleration too. It's complete crazy that I need to
shift down to 2nd
at 60mph to get any sort of decent speed.
- ----
???
What up
with the fucked up gearing in my Celica..I can lose my license in 2nd
gear
too!
Lets be reasonable..youre the guy with the right foot, stop being a
victim.
I cant see that 2nd gear is 'required' at 60mph for 'decent
speed'.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 09:14:08 -0700
From: Leonard Dy <
LDy@acssys.com>
Subject: Team3S: 95 VR4
w/removable sunroof - lowering springs options?
Advice
needed...
Currently I am looking to buy some lowering springs for my car
(95 VR4
w/removable sunroof). I have noticed that Eibach and RSR both
have
exceptions for this model year w/ the removable sunroof. I talked
to a
vendor which stated that he could not figure out why this would be and
has
installed springs on this model car with no problems at all. I also
talked
to another vendor that sold both Eibach and RSR and told me that I
basically
had no options when concerning lowering springs for my car.
Has anyone out
there successfully installed springs for this model year w/
remmovable roof
without any problems? I know the manufacturer's would
not state this
exception for their product if there wasn't a reason.
Maybe a weight or
install issue? I'd hate to buy springs only to not be
able to install them.
Thanks guys,
Len
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 19:32:44 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Pinging Saga: Compression *too high*
>
compression(psi):
> 227, 230, 225, 225, 236, 225 (checked with 2
different gauges)
Wow, this is extremely high !!! How have you done the
test and is this with
some oil in teh chambers or real clean ?
>
Spec for a non-turbo is 185psi with no more than a 14psi range of
values.
Yes, 200 is really the top psi I'd like to accept.
>
Octane booster doesn't make it stop pinging, so I guess I've got a
>
problem, and I suppose it's carbon deposits in the cylinders or on the
>
piston tops.
No, octane booster doesn't help you anything it even helps
to clogg up the
stuff even more !
> 1) run some kind of
cleaner through the top end to hopefully clean it out
Yes, there is a
fluid (Mopar I guess) that you can pour into the cylinders
and let it soak
over night. This loosens the stuff and when cranking the
engine it will
pushed out. Just follow the procedure and you're fine.
> 2) to
remove the pistons, get the carbon off, and put 'em back
in.
Nono.
> 3) make the octane booster people rich and
live with light pinging
This makes the situation even worser as the
deposit may be one of the
sideeffects of octane boosters. Non-turbos do not
need any oct bosoter at
all.
Go with #1 and search around for a good
product if no one can give you a
link to something. If you then have done the
cleanup do another compression
test (on the fronts should be enough
then)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 10:36:12 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Pinging Saga: Compression *too high*
"Gross,
Erik" wrote:
> Octane booster doesn't make it stop pinging, so I guess
I've got a
> problem, and I suppose it's carbon deposits in the cylinders
or on the
> piston tops.
I have recently begun to suspect that I
may have the same
problem. I've been driving my car around very little
with
all the work I've been doing to it, and I've been told that
this is a
common cause of carbon deposits in the valvetrain
and on the
pistons.
> dollars. So is #1 an option? If so, any
recommendations? Someone was
> telling me about ATF being a good
thing to run through the intake to clean
> things out...but possibly
hydrolocking the engine just doesn't sound fun to
>
me.
Hydrolocking is definitely a bad thing, but I see no reason
that
the ATF cleanout method would lead to it. I've had
a couple suggestions
given to me:
1) Buy the Mopar Cylinder Head Cleaner (can't
remember
that exact name, but something to that effect).
Available
from any Dodge dealer. You run the car warm, shut if
off,
spray about half the bottle directly into the intake plenum,
let it
sit for a bit, then start up the car (while flooring it b/c
engine will be
flooded). This method was highly recommen-
ded to me by a veteran
Mitsubishi mechanic, a guy that I
really trust.
2) Techron makes an
engine cleaner which is supposed to
be pretty effective. It's the kind
you add to your gas tank.
3) Take a glass of water, have the car running,
take one of
the various vacuum hoses, and while holding the throttle
open
quite a bit, suck up the water with the vacuum hose.
If you're holding the
throttle open enough, the car won't
die. This is supposed to be more
effective than #1, but of
course you want to be careful lest you hydrolock
the
cylinders. When it comes down to it, almost nothing will
clean
out an engine better than good old H2O.
Good luck,
- --Errin
Humphrey
94 VR4 - 15G
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 12:38:23 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 95 VR4 w/removable sunroof - lowering springs options?
The only
advice I can offer you is that in the service manual, there is no
distinction
in parts for this spring on amy model of cars. The base model
and SL's
have one spring, the VR-4's have another spring. There is no
other
difference in the '95 model year. The service manual does cover
the sunroof
models, so if there is a difference, it should (or would) be
noted as an
exception in the manual. I personally say - if no one else
has done it,
simply purchase them from some vendor with a good return policy
(maybe one
will work with you to clear up the confusion) Once you do
it, I'm sure alot
more list members will be ordering them also.
-
-Cody
#Advice needed...
#
#Currently I am looking to buy some
lowering springs for my car (95 VR4
#w/removable sunroof). I have
noticed that Eibach and RSR both have
#exceptions for this model year w/ the
removable sunroof. I talked to a
#vendor which stated that he could not
figure out why this would be and has
#installed springs on this model car
with no problems at all. I also talked
#to another vendor that sold
both Eibach and RSR and told me that I
#basically
#had no options when
concerning lowering springs for my car. Has anyone out
#there
successfully installed springs for this model year w/ remmovable
roof
#without any problems? I know the manufacturer's would not state
this
#exception for their product if there wasn't a reason. Maybe a
weight or
#install issue? I'd hate to buy springs only to not be able
to
#install them.
#
#Thanks guys,
#Len
#
#***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
#
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 10:53:56 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pinging Saga: Compression *too high*
> From: R.G.
[
mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
> >
compression(psi):
> > 227, 230, 225, 225, 236, 225 (checked with
2 different gauges)
>
> Wow, this is extremely high !!! How have
you done the test
> and is this with some oil in teh chambers or real
clean ?
Doh! This was *clean* (i.e. run the car for 10
minutes on the highway,
park, start taking TB/plenum off, and check
compression. I'm down to 20
minutes from parked car to testing
compression :) BTW, for grins and
giggles, I squirted about .75cc
of oil into one of the cylinders with a
syringe and then checked it
again: 247psi! Argh.
> > Spec for a non-turbo is 185psi
with no more than a 14psi
> range of values.
>
> Yes, 200 is
really the top psi I'd like to accept.
>
Ok, that's the ballpark I
was thinking of.
> > Octane booster doesn't make it stop pinging,
so I guess I've got a
> > problem, and I suppose it's carbon deposits
in the cylinders or on the
> > piston tops.
>
> No,
octane booster doesn't help you anything it even helps to
> clogg up the
stuff even more !
>
Argh. Oh well, I've only run one
bottle of the stuff.
> > 1) run some kind of cleaner through
the top end to
> hopefully clean it out
>
> Yes, there is a
fluid (Mopar I guess) that you can pour into
> the cylinders and let it
soak over night. This loosens the stuff and when
> cranking the engine it
will pushed out. Just follow the procedure and
you're fine.
>
Ok, <hoping with fingers crossed> that's what I'll start looking
at...
> If you then have done the cleanup do another
compression
> test (on the fronts should be enough then)
So you can
test just the fronts? You don't have to remove the plugs from
the rear
bank? BTW, I don't think it should make any difference, but when
I
checked the compression, I left the plenum off and just let the engine
suck
air through the intake manifold.
- --Erik
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 10:51:29 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 95 VR4 w/removable sunroof - lowering springs
options?
Leonard Dy wrote:
> installed springs on this model
car with no problems at all. I also talked
> to another vendor that
sold both Eibach and RSR and told me that I basically
> had no options
when concerning lowering springs for my car. Has anyone out
> there
successfully installed springs for this model year w/ remmovable roof
>
without any problems?
My '94 VR4 w/ sunroof is pretty much the same as
your
'95, and I've put the RSR and H&R lowering springs on it.
I also
see no reason why the Eibachs would not work.
Last I heard, however, you
can't buy the RSR's anymore.
I recommend checking out H&R. The
springs were pretty
decent, but not stiff enough (and not as stiff as the
RSR's).
Intrax makes springs which will also work for your car.
-
--Errin Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:37:02 -0500
From: Jim Wiseman <
jim.wiseman@wcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Burned ECU?
Vineet,
I just got back from vacation and
your information about ECU repair places
(below) couldn't have been more
timely. I called the shop where my car is
today and they said the parts house
had sent them the wrong ECU and they
would send mine in for rebuilding. I
then called Andre at Foreign Auto
Computer Repair. He was *very* helpful and
I asked about sending my ECU in
for free testing (as advertised on their
website) . He offered that he would
just overnight me a rebuilt ECU and if it
didn't resolve the problem I could
send it back for a refund (less the $25
overnight fee). You can't beat a
deal like that!
The price is
half what the shop was going to charge for the part and the
warranty for the
Foreign Auto Computer Repair unit is 18 months versus 12
months for the
other.
Thanks again for the help. I'll let the group know how it goes
when I get
the car back. Keep your fingers crossed for me.
Jim
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Vineet Singh [
mailto:billi_gates@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, June 07, 2000 1:28 AM
To:
jim.wiseman@wcom.comCc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Burned ECU?
Foreign Auto Computer Repair ECU
20%
15404 Plantation Oaks #2
Tampa, FL 33647 USA
Phone:
813-977-5365 Phone: 813-977-8505 FAX: 813-977-8505
E-mail:
acorbin@prodigy.net Web:
http://foreignecurepair.com/ (This
site
looks DiSgUsTiNg!)
ECU's and TCU's,most units in stock,including
hard to find e-prom units for
1st Gen turbo DSMs. Rebuild and return service.
Competitive pricing,
overnight shipping, credit cards
accepted.
_____
MasterTech ECU
1405 Bayport
Blvd
Seabrook, TX 77586 US
Phone: 888-ECM-TOGO Phone: 281-474-7510 FAX:
281-291-0962
E-mail:
mastert@flash.net Web:
http://www.ecmtogo.com/ECU repair for
all Mitsubishi vechicles.
_____
Those are two well known, and
decently priced "ECU REPAIR" shops that are in
the DSM Vendors list. I would
suggest you call both up, and get more prices,
and talk to them about the
"burn mark" on your 3/S ECU.
DSM ECU's usually can be had for less than
200$ (non-eprom), so 3/S ones
shouldn't be too much more! I'm also sure that
it can't cost 600$+ to REPAIR
your current ECU, that might be a good option
too, since your car still
runs, maybe it's not totally
un-salvagable.
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
PS: here is another one, but I don't know anything about
them.
_____
Automotive Computer Supply/ECM Finders
ECU 20%
PO Box 890693
Houston, Texas 77289 USA
Phone:
877-ECM-7477 Phone: 281-ECM-0330 FAX: 877-326-4520
E-mail:
ecmorder@earthlink.net Web:
http://www.ecmfinders.com/ECM
Finders- New, Rebuilt, Used units up to 18 month warranty unlimited
milage.
Specializing in Mitsubishi mfd ECM rebuilding. Also specializing
in
Mitsubishi Parts locating.
(here is a statement they make, which
really isn't a bunch of "hog-wash"
"Mitsubishi made units are rare and
subsequently much more expensive. From
1989 to 1994 all Mitsubishi
manufactured ECMs were made with component parts
many auto electric experts
(including our expert technical research team)
consider inferior.
|source| -
http://www.ecmfinders.com/more.htm")_____
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 12:48:46 -0600
From: Dean Knoepfle <
speedfreek@uswest.net>
Subject:
Team3S: shifter shaking
This is an odd problem but recently when cruising
around
town in 2nd or 3rd and I let of the gas the shifter will
begin to
rattle/shake forward and backward about a 1/4 inch
very fast. Could there be
something loose inside the tranny
or linkage? I want to make sure I
don't cause any permanent
damage by driving it this way, plus it is
annoying and I
would like to fix the problem so any help would
be
appreciated.
Dean
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 13:16:09 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: automatic climate control
well, voodoo strikes again..
it's all better now.. I didn't touch a
thing.. I hate not knowing
what the real cause was.. oh well.. thanks
to everyone that
offered a suggestion.. btw, it _was_ malfunctioning..
it wasn't
operator error, at least not this time.. :)
sorry I don't have any
info for the people that have constant problems
with their climate
control.. I didn't fix it so I don't know what was
wrong!
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87
Mica Red GTI G60 =
= There is no spoon..
=
=======================
+> Dave,
+>
+> Mine does the
same thing. It happens once a month or so but after about 15
minutes
it goes
+> back to normal.
+>
+> At this point I just live
with it.
+>
+> Rgds
+> Moe
+>
+> Jim Berry
wrote:
+>
+> > Are you sure it's not in the economy mode ----
the compressor light goes o
ff but
+> > everything else is the
same.
+> >
+>
> Jim Berry
+> >
=================================================
+> >
+> >
> on my VR4 with the full auto climate control, the system all of a
sudden
+> > > now refuses to switch to A/C (showing the blue cooling
arrows on the
+> > > control panel) unless I put the temperature
setting all the way at the
+> > > bottom end.. 65
degrees.. otherwise it just blows hot air.. it has
+> >
> worked perfectly up until today..
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 14:15:53 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: shifter shaking
> This is an odd problem but recently when
cruising around
> town in 2nd or 3rd and I let of the gas the shifter
will
> begin to rattle/shake forward and backward about a 1/4 inch
>
very fast. Could there be something loose inside the tranny
> or
linkage? I want to make sure I don't cause any permanent
> damage by
driving it this way, plus it is annoying and I
> would like to fix
the problem so any help would be
> appreciated.
You forgot to
mention which car you have (turbo or not, what year, 6-speed or 5 speed,
etc.).
If you have a FWD, this is one of the symptoms of the retaining
nut coming loose from the gear shaft. You can take the end cover off the
tranny and the nut is accessible there. Other possiblities are that your
primary gears are stripped or damaged, or the end bearings are shot.
Stop
driving the car, get it fixed before it gets worse.
If it is the end nut,
then I posted detailed instructions on how to fix it which should be in the list
Archives.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 14:24:34 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 95 VR4 w/removable sunroof - lowering springs options?
Hey
Len,
RSRs are not imported into the USA anymore. So unless you
import them
yourself, you can't get them.
Now onto your real
problem. From everything I've read in the past this is
the situation
as I see it..... On the 95 VR4 (not Stealth), with the manual
sunroof
and ECS, there is an extra bracket near the rear springs. This
bracket
is there to add more rigidity to the frame. Probably because the
sunroof makes the car less rigid and the combination of stiffness of ECS and
the 18" chrome rims, made it needed. The sport setting of ECS and a
low
profile tire will create more "shock" to the frame of the car.
Make sense
so far??
On the late model 95 VR4s, the ECS option was
dropped and the power sunroof
replaced the manual sunroof as an
option. So if you have a late model 95
VR4, you ~can~ put lowering
springs on your VR4.
The reason the Stealth doesn't have this problem in
95, is ECS was dropped
for all of 95, and the Stealths never came with power
sunroofs.
I have never seen this extra bracket with my own eyes, so I
can't say with
100% assurance that it even exists. But I've read
several posts in the past
concerning this issue. For some odd reason,
there are no "Minnesota 3/S"
members that come to any gatherings with a 95
VR4 with a manual sunroof.
;-) (but there are 4 95 Stealth
owners)
Hope that helps,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
Leonard Dy <
LDy@acssys.com>
>To:
"3SI (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: 95 VR4 w/removable sunroof - lowering springs options?
>Date: Mon,
12 Jun 2000 09:14:08 -0700
>
>Advice
needed...
>
>Currently I am looking to buy some lowering springs for
my car (95 VR4
>w/removable sunroof). I have noticed that Eibach and
RSR both have
>exceptions for this model year w/ the removable
sunroof. I talked to a
>vendor which stated that he could not figure
out why this would be and has
>installed springs on this model car with no
problems at all. I also talked
>to another vendor that sold both
Eibach and RSR and told me that I
>basically
>had no options when
concerning lowering springs for my car. Has anyone out
>there
successfully installed springs for this model year w/ remmovable
roof
>without any problems? I know the manufacturer's would not
state this
>exception for their product if there wasn't a reason.
Maybe a weight or
>install issue? I'd hate to buy springs only to
not be able to install
>them.
>
>Thanks
guys,
>Len
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 23:16:15 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Standard tyre sizes
Mitsu standard for Asia, Aus and Europe was
225/50-17 up to 1993. The Dunlop
SP8080 was developed for our cars then. I
have 235/45-17 winter tires o
nthem now.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
> What are the standard tyre sizes for the 1993 VR4 on 17"
wheels?
> Mine has 235/45 17's fitted all round and I'm about to replace
them and
> noticed 245 mentioned. I thought the 18" had 245 alright but
not the
> 17".
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:39:45 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: tranny leaking again!
I have had my third tranny installed under
warranty. All of them leak from
between the transfer case and gearbox
at the bottom. Is this normal or can
something be done that isn't to
prevent this? Is this a common problem? I
am quite tired of
bringing my car back to get a tranny replaced because the
rebuilds are not
holding fluid.
95 VR-4
Sam Shelat
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:59:40 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pinging Saga: Compression *too high*
Try this page for info
on cleaning out carbon deposits, look at "combustion
chamber
cleaning:
http://www.dsm.org/menu.epl?item=4you
need mopar combustion chamber cleaner, any chrysler dealership
carries
it.
I've done this, and had pretty good results with it. Ran
the car warm,
removed the plenum, took out the plugs, and sprayed about 1/4
of a can in
each cylinder, and let it soak almost 24 hours. You would want to
fill the
pistons up as much as you can, since our pistons are at an angle,
the liquid
would move to one side of the piston and sit there, leaving the
higher side
bare. I did this while i did my timing belt, so the cams were
free to
rotate, all the valves were closed.. i sprayed some cleaner on top of
each
valve to let them soak in overnight as well. Good way to check your
valve
seals i suppose. The plenum needs to be removed on non turbos for
two
reasons.. One because spraying in through the throttle body, the liquid
will
just settle in the bottom part of the plenum, nowhere near the
combustion
chamber :) And two, some of the valves would be closed, you
wouldn't see
which chambers got the cleaner and which didn't (open and closed
valves).
Hand cranking would help, but you still can't be sure how much
cleaner you
got into each chamber.
I didn't do a compression check, as
I wasn't having a pinging problem, this
was just a routine maintenance sort
of thing, but I could visually see
looking in the spark plug holes that most
of the carbon buildup had
disappeared. One word of advice, gut the precats if
your a turbo, and pull
the main cats on any car before doing this. You don't
want all that carbon
crap clogging up your cats! after doing this, I did an
engine flush, changed
the oil, and took it out for a spin. Don't worry if
your car creates a wall
of smoke you can't see two feet through., it's
perfectly normal, that would
be the cleaner burning up inside the exhaust
system. I would suggest this be
done when no ones around. Someone in your
neiborhood might complain about
the smoke or the noise from running your car
with basically no exhaust (your
cats should still be off at this
point).
Another thing, as long as you HAND crank the engine a couple
times with plug
holes filled with rags, you shouldn't have any problems with
hydrolocking
your engine. Just make sure all the liquid is out of there
before closing
things back up. Use a small tube attached to a wet dry vac if
you have to.
Most of the cleaner would seep through the rings overnight
anyways. Oh and
don't be lazy like me and try crank it by blipping the
starter like some
people suggested on that page. Your rags will fly out of
the plug holes and
you'll end up with nice carbon/brown cleaner patterns on
the inside of your
hood and garage ceiling.
After closing up, it took
a good 5 minutes of cranking for 5 sec at 30 sec
intervals to get the engine
to fire up. Once it does though, get out of
there, you don't want to breathe
those nasty cleaner fumes burning up in
your exhaust. Wait 5 minutes for
whatever engine flush you're using, change
the oil, and take her for a spin.
after all the carbon has blown out the
exhaust and you've had a good run down
the highway, put your cats back on ;)
OH! and it also got rid of my
lifter ticking!
Omar
92 r/t
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Gross, Erik
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 12:55 PM
To: 'Team3S
List'; 'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'; 'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'
Subject: Team3S:
Pinging Saga: Compression *too high*
First a quick word of thanks for
all the people who've offered help/advice
on and off the lists in the last
week or so. I really appreciate it!
Ok, so I think I've found why
my car is pinging, and I do think the sound is
light pinging (not that I'm
hearing things :) Timing ok, plug gaps all to
spec, everything looks
ok... except
compression(psi):
227, 230, 225, 225, 236, 225
(checked with 2 different gauges)
Spec for a non-turbo is 185psi with no
more than a 14psi range of values.
Octane booster doesn't make it stop
pinging, so I guess I've got a
problem, and I suppose it's carbon deposits in
the cylinders or on the
piston tops. How high are those readings?
The manual gives a lower
boundary, but not an upper one. How worried
should I be? The things I can
think of would be:
1) run some
kind of cleaner through the top end to hopefully clean it out
2) to
remove the pistons, get the carbon off, and put 'em back in.
3)
make the octane booster people rich and live with light pinging
I don't
like #3 because I'd like my car to be running properly:) I wouldn't
try
#2 myself at this point, and I'm sure it would involve many hundreds
of
dollars. So is #1 an option? If so, any recommendations?
Someone was
telling me about ATF being a good thing to run through the intake
to clean
things out...but possibly hydrolocking the engine just doesn't sound
fun to
me. Anybody got a web page on cleaning out carbon
deposits? <g>
Thanks!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
*** No more ticking
lash adjusters(since 07/99)! ***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
67,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:04:50 -0500
From: "Craig Hodges" <
ahodges@houston.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV suggestions ?
I have a '99 VR-4. What BOV would you
suggest I get to replace the
stock
one?
Thanks
Craig
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:16:20 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BOV suggestions ?
> I have a '99 VR-4. What BOV would
you suggest I get to replace the stock
> one?
If you are looking
for more performance, and not a louder sound then go with the 1G DSM BOV.
You can find the kit as a kit to fit the 1G valve to a 2G DSM car. Buschur
Racing and Extreme Motorsports sell kits. You could make one easily if you
are good with welding... It just takes a little plate of metal as a flange
and a short piece of pipe. The Greddy BOV can also be used like this, and
is adjustable - but more money.
If you want more noise, then the HKS
S-BOV or Blitz Super-Sound BOV seem to work good. Take note though that
the Blitz valve preserves the factory valve (which is CRAP), so it may make a
bad situation worse.
Whichever way you go, I'd recommend losing the stock
valve.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
(w/1G DSM
BOV)
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 15:54:37 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Re: tranny leaking again!
Dont bitch *grin*
As long as
they keep leakin, you keep stocked with fresh transmissions.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat [
mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Monday,
June 12, 2000 5:40 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
Merritt
Subject: Team3S: Re: tranny leaking again!
I have had
my third tranny installed under warranty. All of them leak from
between
the transfer case and gearbox at the bottom. Is this normal or
can
something be done that isn't to prevent this? Is this a common
problem? I
am quite tired of bringing my car back to get a tranny
replaced because the
rebuilds are not holding fluid.
95
VR-4
Sam Shelat
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 19:03:11 EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: New
refrigerant - direct replacement for R-12
Anyone needing an A/C
recharge:
Check out R-406A by a company called Monroe Air Tech. This is
claimed to be a
direct replacement for the old R-12 that is being phased
out. It does not
require any modification to your old A/C system (according
to the brochure I
found).
It should be a much less expensive option
vs. finding some old R-12 or
converting to the new refrigerant (called
H-13?).
Check out Monroe Air Tech at:
http://worldserver.com:/R-406Aor
call 1-800-424-3836
Paul Klusman
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 19:03:09 EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Need
Help with Evaporator unit + a/c recharge
You might want to check out
R-406A by a company called Monroe Air Tech. This
is claimed to be a direct
replacement for the old R-12 that is being phased
out. It does not require
any modification to your old A/C system (according
to the brochure I
found).
It should be a much less expensive option vs. finding some old
R-12 or
converting to the new refrigerant (called H-13?).
Check out
Monroe Air Tech at:
http://worldserver.com:/R-406Aor
call 1-800-424-3836
Hope this helps,
Paul
Klusman
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:11:37 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need Help with Evaporator unit + a/c recharge
>You might
want to check out R-406A by a company called Monroe Air Tech. This
>is
claimed to be a direct replacement for the old R-12 that is being phased
>out. It does not require any modification to your old A/C system
(according
>to the brochure I found).
>
The world is full of
phony cures, and replacing R12 with a magic, cheap
fluid falls into that
category.
Be careful. This could be phony too. Buy R12 and be
sure.
Rich/old poop
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Jun 2000 18:16:24 -0400
From: "Eddie" <
stealth3@superservers.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Where to buy brake rotors / pads?
Hello,
I
am looking for a place to order cross-drilled / slotted rotors. - I
recall
hearing that speedtoys.com carried them, but their web page seems to
be
down.
If anyone has any recommendations (rather it be
store, brand of rotor,
brand of brake PAD, etc.) It would be
great.
Thanks.
Eddie
92 R/T
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #167
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