team3s
Friday, June 9
2000
Volume 01 : Number
164
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Jun 2000 22:12:20 PDT
From: "marc augellli" <
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: TRUNK MIS-ALIGN SL AND KEYLESS ENTRY ON GALANT GTZ
Hi,
I
was hoping someone might be able to help me, I have a 94-3000gt SL and I
notice that my trunk is not flush with the rear quarter panels. The
left
side (driver) of the trunk is rise a half an inch and the right side is
flush? Has anybody had this problem also how did you fix
it?
Another question I just purchase a new Galant GTZ and I love the car,
my
question is does anybody know how to reprogram the keyless entry
system?
Sorry for the Galant question, i thought i would give it a
shot if anybody
knew the answer.
Thanks for any
help,
Marc
________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Jun 2000 08:38:50 -0400
From: Brian Geisel <
brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Trouble
Uh, Oh.
I got up this
morning and drove to work. I live 5 minutes from
work.
I was afraid
I wouldn't make it. I think my clutch is broken. :(
<End
of "see spot run." sentences>
My catch point on the clutch is usually
fairly close to the floor, like
somewhere between the floor and half-way
up. I did no unusual
driving last night (nothing hard), and today, my
clutch feels as loose
as can be.
It really is a loose feeling.
My clutch pedal is usually very hard to
push compared to normal passenger
clutches (like a normal VR-4
I suppose). I didn't try slipping the
clutch to test the grip, because
I was afraid I could kill it if it is, in
fact, limping. There didn't
seem
to be any slippage once it was
engaged, but I didn't do anything
to pound on it, so I can't be
sure.
It just seems kind of out-of-the-blue. The only thing I could
say
is that the clutch press has probably been harder than usual
lately.
It just feels ridiculously light today. Could the clutch have
gone
that quickly w/o rough driving? Could it be something in
the
hydrolics? Boy, I sure am open to ideas and suggestions right
now.
TIA,
geis
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000 10:37:45 EDT
From:
Ampebob@aol.comSubject: Team3S: WHAT
CAUSED ROD FAILURE?
I PURCHASED A 92GT WITH 88K MILES ABOUT 4 WEEKS AGO.
THE CAR RAN FINE WITH
THE EXCEPTION OF BOGGING WHEN YOU APPLIED FULL
THROTTLE. I TOOK IT TO A LOCAL
MITS. DEALER FOR A COMPLETE INSPECTION. THE
DEALER EXC HANGED WIRES/PLUGS AND
FOUND A BAD VACUME HOSE.
THE DEALER
THEN SUGGESTED PULLING THE PAN TO CHECK THE BOTTOM END. NEXT HE
CALLS
STATING THE ROD BEARINGS ARE LOOSE. HE SUGGESTS REPLACEMENT---I
RELUCTANTLY
AGREED. THREE DAYS LATTER I GO TO PICKUP THE CAR AND AM INFORMED
THAT THERE
NOW IS A KNOCK IN THE ENGINE.
THE PAN IS AGAIN PULLED AND NOW WE HAVE A BAD
ROD WITH SIDE TO SIDE (PER THE
DEALER) MOVEMENT.
I SUSPECT A WORKMANSHIP
PROBLEM WITH THE INSALLATION OF THE ROD BEARINGS.
ANY OPINIONS OUT
THERE
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000 09:44:03 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: WHAT CAUSED ROD FAILURE?
Please do not YELL... That is
bvery annoying, and considered rude....
To answer your question - if it
was OK before they performed the work (the
bearings were mostlikely fine -
they would not cause a full throttle
bogging) and now it is broken, then it
definitely has something to do with
their work. Take ist back and
demand they fix it, if not go to a lawyer....
- -Cody
#I
PURCHASED A 92GT WITH 88K MILES ABOUT 4 WEEKS AGO. THE CAR RAN FINE WITH
#THE
EXCEPTION OF BOGGING WHEN YOU APPLIED FULL THROTTLE. I TOOK IT
#TO A
LOCAL
#MITS. DEALER FOR A COMPLETE INSPECTION. THE DEALER EXC
HANGED
#WIRES/PLUGS AND
#FOUND A BAD VACUME HOSE.
#THE DEALER THEN
SUGGESTED PULLING THE PAN TO CHECK THE BOTTOM END. NEXT HE
#CALLS STATING THE
ROD BEARINGS ARE LOOSE. HE SUGGESTS REPLACEMENT---I
#RELUCTANTLY AGREED.
THREE DAYS LATTER I GO TO PICKUP THE CAR AND
#AM INFORMED
#THAT THERE NOW
IS A KNOCK IN THE ENGINE.
#THE PAN IS AGAIN PULLED AND NOW WE HAVE A BAD ROD
WITH SIDE TO
#SIDE (PER THE
#DEALER) MOVEMENT.
#I SUSPECT A WORKMANSHIP
PROBLEM WITH THE INSALLATION OF THE ROD BEARINGS.
#ANY OPINIONS OUT
THERE
#
#***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
#
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000 08:03:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WHAT CAUSED ROD FAILURE?
Ditto on what Cody said. Also,
though it is possible to change the
rod bearings with the engine in the car,
there is no way they can be
fit/sized correctly - unless they and the bottom
end are brand new.
In your case with and old engine, they would fail quickly.
I would
advise not going to back to those idiots and find someone that
knows
how to work on these engines. Sorry about your problems. However,
all
it takes is a "little" money and time to fix her up better than new.
I
did it after rod bearing failure.
PS. The rebuild manual for our 6G72
engine is on the CD referenced
below.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red
1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/The
new 3/S Backup CD Homepage
-->
http://www.manualcd.com/ - -----
Original Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
To: <
Ampebob@aol.com>
Cc: "Team3S" <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, June 09, 2000 8:44 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: WHAT CAUSED ROD
FAILURE?
Please do not YELL... That is bvery annoying, and
considered
rude....
To answer your question - if it was OK before they
performed the work
(the
bearings were mostlikely fine - they would not
cause a full throttle
bogging) and now it is broken, then it definitely has
something to do
with
their work. Take ist back and demand they fix
it, if not go to a
lawyer....
- -Cody
#I PURCHASED A 92GT WITH
88K MILES ABOUT 4 WEEKS AGO. THE CAR RAN
FINE WITH
#THE EXCEPTION OF
BOGGING WHEN YOU APPLIED FULL THROTTLE. I TOOK IT
#TO A LOCAL
#MITS.
DEALER FOR A COMPLETE INSPECTION. THE DEALER EXC HANGED
#WIRES/PLUGS
AND
#FOUND A BAD VACUME HOSE.
#THE DEALER THEN SUGGESTED PULLING THE PAN
TO CHECK THE BOTTOM END.
NEXT HE
#CALLS STATING THE ROD BEARINGS ARE
LOOSE. HE SUGGESTS
REPLACEMENT---I
#RELUCTANTLY AGREED. THREE DAYS LATTER
I GO TO PICKUP THE CAR AND
#AM INFORMED
#THAT THERE NOW IS A KNOCK IN THE
ENGINE.
#THE PAN IS AGAIN PULLED AND NOW WE HAVE A BAD ROD WITH SIDE
TO
#SIDE (PER THE
#DEALER) MOVEMENT.
#I SUSPECT A WORKMANSHIP PROBLEM
WITH THE INSALLATION OF THE ROD
BEARINGS.
#ANY OPINIONS OUT
THERE
#
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000 08:29:15 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
WHAT CAUSED ROD FAILURE?
Also, though it is possible to change
the
> rod bearings with the engine in the car, there is no way they can
be
> fit/sized correctly - unless they and the bottom end are brand
new.
> In your case with and old engine
Jeff --- I'm not sure I
understand your comment about not being able
to size the bearings and
journals by just dropping the pan.
You can certainly get a micrometer on the
crank and plastigage has
been around since dirt and seems
effective.
Jim Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000 09:15:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: WHAT CAUSED ROD FAILURE?
I just assumed that the crank
journals and rod big ends would be worn
badly and not true on a 92 TT with
88K miles. Now that I re-read the
original post I see that the car is not a
TT. But like I said, it
could work (especially if the bottom end is like new)
but it is no
substitute for rebuilding the bottom end correctly after 88K
miles.
As they found out.
Jeff Lucius
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
"Team3S"
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
Ampebob@aol.com>
Sent: Friday,
June 09, 2000 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: WHAT CAUSED ROD
FAILURE?
Also, though it is possible to change the
> rod bearings
with the engine in the car, there is no way they can
be
> fit/sized
correctly - unless they and the bottom end are brand new.
> In your case
with and old engine
Jeff --- I'm not sure I understand your comment about
not being able
to size the bearings and journals by just dropping the
pan.
You can certainly get a micrometer on the crank and plastigage
has
been around since dirt and seems effective.
Jim
Berry
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000 09:45:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: WHAT CAUSED ROD FAILURE?
Once you have blown bearings..its
best to remove the crank and have it
polished and checked for
roundness.x
On Fri, 9 Jun 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
>
>
Also, though it is possible to change the
> > rod bearings with the
engine in the car, there is no way they can be
> > fit/sized correctly
- unless they and the bottom end are brand new.
> > In your case with
and old engine
>
> Jeff --- I'm not sure I understand your comment
about not being able
> to size the bearings and journals by just dropping
the pan.
> You can certainly get a micrometer on the crank and plastigage
has
> been around since dirt and seems effective.
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000 17:02:30 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
WHAT CAUSED ROD FAILURE?
Geoff wrote
> Once you have blown
bearings..its best to remove the crank and have it
> polished and checked
for roundness.x
I know that grinding the crank is a no-no unless you
have it recoated
[ I think the buzz word is nitrided ] but can you polish the
journals without
removing the treatment.
I guess the question is, how deep
is the hardning treatment --- does
anybody know ????????
PS. you can
check the big end rod journals in place --- you can't check
to see if it's
straight.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
>
>
On Fri, 9 Jun 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> >
> > Also,
though it is possible to change the
> > > rod bearings with the
engine in the car, there is no way they can be
> > > fit/sized
correctly - unless they and the bottom end are brand new.
> > > In
your case with and old engine
> >
> > Jeff --- I'm not sure I
understand your comment about not being able
> > to size the bearings
and journals by just dropping the pan.
> > You can certainly get a
micrometer on the crank and plastigage has
> > been around since dirt
and seems effective.
> >
> > Jim
Berry
> >
> >
> > ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Jun 2000 00:06:41 -0500
From: "Scott F." <
scottf@binary.net>
Subject: Team3S: 94
VR4 for Sale
1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
57,000 Miles, Red w/Black
interior
320 HP Twin Turbo, AWD, AWS, ECS, Active Aero
Active Suspension,
Premium chrome wheels
BF Goodrich Comp T/A 245/45 ZR 17 tires (3K miles
ago)
Replaced brakes & rotors (3K miles ago)
Made Mitsubishi replace
the Getrag 6 speed at 35K miles
Replaced clutch when transmission was
replaced.
Made Mitsubishi replace ALL valve lash adjusters (3K miles
ago)
Car has been professionally polished and detailed w/finish
warranty
Asking $19,995 or best offer.
Call (402)476-9470 after 6PM or
e-mail back
Scott Farwell, Lincoln NE
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jun 2000 23:47:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: WHAT CAUSED ROD FAILURE?
If you have to go below 7-10 thou,
youve lost your hardened coating...some
cranks not even that far.
On
Fri, 9 Jun 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Geoff wrote
>
> > Once you have blown bearings..its best to remove the crank and
have it
> > polished and checked for roundness.x
>
>
> I know that grinding the crank is a no-no unless you have it
recoated
> [ I think the buzz word is nitrided ] but can you polish the
journals without
> removing the treatment.
> I guess the question
is, how deep is the hardning treatment --- does
> anybody know
????????
>
> PS. you can check the big end rod journals in place
--- you can't check
> to see if it's straight.
>
> Jim Berry
>
==================================================
>
> >
> > On Fri, 9 Jun 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
> >
> >
>
> > > Also, though it is possible to change the
> >
> > rod bearings with the engine in the car, there is no way they can
be
> > > > fit/sized correctly - unless they and the bottom end
are brand new.
> > > > In your case with and old engine
>
> >
> > > Jeff --- I'm not sure I understand your comment
about not being able
> > > to size the bearings and journals by just
dropping the pan.
> > > You can certainly get a micrometer on the
crank and plastigage has
> > > been around since dirt and seems
effective.
> > >
> > > Jim
Berry
> > >
> > >
> > > ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
> >
> >
>
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #164
*********************