team3s
Thursday, June 8
2000
Volume 01 : Number
163
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 13:50:05 EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Spark
Plugs
I know this question is asked often, but usually the instructions
are given
for VR4/TT models rather than for Base/SL.
I need basic
instructions on what parts to remove to access the rear spark
plugs on a
normally asperated '94 3KGT. I've looked at the plenum and I know
basically
what to do, I just want to make sure that I don't end up removing
more parts
than necessary and I also want to make sure that I do it right.
Also, the
factory parts that I have bought is a plenum gasket and of course
the spark
plugs - is there anything else i need to get?
If anyone here has
experience on removing the upper plenum to reach the rear
spark plugs on a
normally asparated model, I would appreciate your help!
Thanks in
advance!
P.S. If at all possible, please send a CC of your reply to my
e-mail address.
Thanks.
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark Plugs
I have posted instructions for my TT at
http://www.3si.org/member-home/nlucius/n-2-sparkchange.htmYou
should be able to modify them for your non-turbo. It's really
fairly easy. It
just takes a while your first time.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992
Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
AABOMB1@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 07, 2000 11:50 AM
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plugs
I know
this question is asked often, but usually the instructions are
given for
VR4/TT models rather than for Base/SL.
I need basic instructions on what
parts to remove to access the rear
spark plugs on a normally asperated '94
3KGT. I've looked at the
plenum and I know basically what to do, I just want
to make sure that
I don't end up removing more parts than necessary and I
also want to
make sure that I do it right.Also, the factory parts that I
have
bought is a plenum gasket and of course the spark plugs - is
there
anything else i need to get?
If anyone here has experience on
removing the upper plenum to reach
the rear spark plugs on a normally
asparated model, I would
appreciate your help!
Thanks in
advance!
P.S. If at all possible, please send a CC of your reply to my
e-mail
address.
Thanks.
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United
States]
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 13:48:12 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Quick question about 60K tune up on 3S Web page
- ----- Original
Message ----- From: <
AABOMB1@aol.com>
> Hi, I was looking
at the instructions for the 60K tune up on the 3S
web page
> (
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/60k.htm),
and I was just wondering if
the
> instructions and part numbers on this
page are for earlier models or
for
> newer models. I think the part
numbers for 92-96 models are different
from
> other models and I
have a '94 so I just want to make sure that I am
buying
> the right
parts before I actually do this tune up.
The above instructions on the
Team3S website are by Rich Leroy; his
email link is at the bottom of the
page, if you have specific questions.
BTW, his instructions are for his '94
Stealth RT, which is identical to
your '94 3000GT
SL.
Best,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 14:00:57 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark Plugs
- ----- Original Message ----- From: <
AABOMB1@aol.com>
> I know this
question is asked often, but usually the instructions are
given
> for
VR4/TT models rather than for Base/SL.
- ------------snip-----------
>
If anyone here has experience on removing the upper plenum to reach
the
rear
> spark plugs on a normally aspirated model, I would appreciate
your
help!
Except for the instructions discussing removal of the
Y-pipe (you'll
remove the intake hose, instead), the intructions are
essentially
identical to those of a TT. To see a diagram of the NA
intake system,
refer to the FAQ page on "Removing the Resonator". We
also have an
updated page on how to change the spark plugs by Jeff Lucius on
the
Team3S FAQ pages:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQplugs.htm>
P.S. If at all possible, please send a CC of your reply to my
e-mail
address.
No need. That is done automatically by the
software. By default,
anyone hitting "Reply to All" sends a message to
the list AND the person
being
"replied-to"...
Best,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 17:23:06 -0400
From: "Michael S. Steinebach" <
mikala.s@home.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Spark Plugs
To remove the rear spark plugs disconnect the intake
from the plenum(easy).
now you have to remove the throttle cable plate on top
of the plenum. There
is a wiring harness on the left side of the plenum
with 3 connectors.
Remove the plate that is holding the connectors.
There are 3 hoses on the
left side of the plenum that need to be
removed. Be careful with these,
they are mostly coolant lines, remember
where they go. There are 2
connectors on the right side of the plenum
with a metal u ring holding them
on. Push up on the metal ring and
slide off the connector. If you know
what your doing this should take
about 30 min, if not probably an hour.
Michael Steinebach
91'
Mitsubishi 3000GT SL - Modified
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
Split Second
Upgrade
Magnecor Spark Plug Wires
NGK Spark Plugs Gapped at
.042
Polished Front Valve Cover
Chrome Painted Intake Manifold
Enkei 17
Inch RPO2 Rims
Nitto NT-555 Extreme ZR Tires
Erebuni Spoiler
Stillen
CrossDrilled Rotors
Stillen Steal Braided Brake Lines
Stillen Metal Matrix
Brake Pads
Phoenix Gold ZX400TI Amp and 1.2 Cap
Clarion DMX 5555z
HeadUnit
Custom Box w/ 2 AVI 8inch Competition Speakers
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Bob Forrest
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 5:01 PM
To:
AABOMB1@aol.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Spark Plugs
- ----- Original Message ----- From: <
AABOMB1@aol.com>
> I know this
question is asked often, but usually the instructions are
given
> for
VR4/TT models rather than for Base/SL.
- ------------snip-----------
>
If anyone here has experience on removing the upper plenum to reach
the
rear
> spark plugs on a normally aspirated model, I would appreciate
your
help!
Except for the instructions discussing removal of the
Y-pipe (you'll
remove the intake hose, instead), the intructions are
essentially
identical to those of a TT. To see a diagram of the NA
intake system,
refer to the FAQ page on "Removing the Resonator". We
also have an
updated page on how to change the spark plugs by Jeff Lucius on
the
Team3S FAQ pages:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQplugs.htm>
P.S. If at all possible, please send a CC of your reply to my
e-mail
address.
No need. That is done automatically by the
software. By default,
anyone hitting "Reply to All" sends a message to
the list AND the person
being
"replied-to"...
Best,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 07 Jun 2000 15:11:07 -0700
From: Rich <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: ISO Hard-To-Find Body Part
All:
Each of the local and
on-line Dodge/Mitsu dealers have crapped
out trying to find a part for me, so
now I'll try here.
I'm looking for the Ram emblem that fits the front
bumper cover
for a 94 R/T. The part # is: MR714702 and is for the
*EMERALD*
green, **NOT** the Forrest green (part # MR714700).
These
emblems are pre-painted, and not available in primed-only
condition,
otherwise my local bodyshop would whip one up for me.
The bodyshop would
rather not paint over and existing color.
Please reply
privately.
TIA,
Rich
Now knows what a Mercedes owner goes thru
when kids get stupid
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 23:21:17 EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Spark
Plugs
In a message dated 6/7/2000 5:05:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bf@bobforrest.com writes:
>
Except for the instructions discussing removal of the Y-pipe
(you'll
> remove the intake hose, instead), the intructions are
essentially
> identical to those of a TT. To see a diagram of
the NA intake system,
> refer to the FAQ page on "Removing the
Resonator". We also have an
> updated page on how to change
the spark plugs by Jeff Lucius on the
> Team3S FAQ
pages:
>
>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQplugs.htm>
Ok, sounds simple enough. I have Nippon Denso spark plugs (part
number
PK20PR-P11), for future reference do you or anyone else on the list
know of
any other spark plugs that are better?
>
> No need. That is done automatically by the software.
By default,
> anyone hitting "Reply to All" sends a message to the
list AND the person
> being "replied-to"...
>
> Best,
>
> Forrest
>
Good point, but I wasn't specifically referring to the reply being
sent using
the CC field, I was just asking that if possible, that any type
of copy also
be e-mailed to my address since many people just send their
reply to the list
only - and me being a lazy and quick reader, I often
accidently skip
important replies
=)
Thanks
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jun 2000 20:02:10 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad ECU?
Hello again from down under.I've just checked this
out and is pretty much
spot on except that if there is leakage it has to be
washed off.the best
thing for that is hot water. yes water,once dried no
problem.
Steve Cooper.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Matt
Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, June 08, 2000 2:21 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bad ECU?
>
http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm>
>
Those instructions are for the DSM ECU, but 3/S cars should be similar
in
approach to replacing them. Double-check the values!
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Jun 2000 06:58:16 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Temps
"John T. Christian" wrote:
>
Hi,
>
> What should our oil temperature run in a
VR4/TT?
That's a trick question, what driving conditions? what ambients?
etc.
Oil will retain its properties up to a sustained temp of ~280F.
Short
periods at temps as high as ~305F are even acceptable (these temps are
as
measured in the sump/oil pan). With our oil coolers and the fact
that we
can't stay on the throttle very long (such as with a truck towing up
a
grade), we should never see temps this high. It is a good idea
to
replacing oil frequently (every 3,000 miles) if these temps are
being
approached.
> Where should one locate an oil temp
probe??
Oil pan drain plug is a popular choice. However, if you are
willing to
remove the oil pan, it would be nice to drill and weld a nut to
the
inside of the pan for the sensor to torque against. Then you don't
have
to mess with the sensor and wiring every time you change your
oil.
> There was a lot of discussion in an open track list about Stang
oil
> temps. The consensus was that oil temps should be below 250F
and the
> probe/sender installed in the oil pan.
Very safe
temperature, oil is happy at 250F.
> After several overheating
episodes and hopefully only having a blown
> headgasket, I'm considering
installing an oil temp gauge to perhaps
> forewarn me of overheating in
the future.
This should help you out, when you overheat and coolant temps
rise, so
will the oil. Just get used to what temps are normal for your
driving
conditions and watch for deviations from the norm.
Slo
Joe
'92 R/T TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Jun 2000 08:12:32 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
95' VR-4 chrome rims
I have a set of 18" chrome rims for VR4 for sale,
will sell for $800
with shipping in USA; Good but not "perfect"...this is IF
one person
with "first dibs" does not buy them within a week. I post
this because
I've seen his inquiry regarding other rims now...
Jack
Tertadian
BaDSeRb83@aol.com
wrote:
> im looking for vr4 rims... how
much??
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jun 2000 10:27:13 EDT
From:
LotoBoost@aol.comSubject: Team3S: AWD
Dyno Up and Running!
All,
Its been a while
sense I've had a chance to post.. We (Altered
Atmosphere Motorsports)
have been busy working on and finishing development
on a few projects that
are going to greatly help everyone out (AAM high-flow
intake manifold, AAM
large throttle body, helping RPS develop a better
clutch, AAM 15G killer
turbo/header conversion, AAM plug-in Haltech engine
management, AAM DOHC
non-turbo kit, AAM Y-Pipe, AAM Front Mount Intercooler,
AAM fuel system
upgrade, AAM 3.5" exhaust system, and more).
Anyway, our newest addition
at the shop is an AWD Dyno! We've had a chance
to put my Stealth on
the dyno and so far it looks like the Dyno is going to
greatly help us on
our quest to offer everyone the best available parts for
their
3000GT/Stealth Twin Turbos.. This Friday we plan to do before and
after comparison tests with an Unorthodox underdrive pulley. I'll post
the
details on our website
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com (we
currently have a picture
of my Stealth on the dyno). As soon as a
stock 3000GT VR4/Stealth Twin Turbo
stops over, I'll post baseline
horsepower and torque numbers. Before long,
we plan to have detailed
before and after numbers on:
- -K&N Intake
- -Cat-Back
exhaust
- -Downpipe
- -Carbon-Fiber Driveshaft
- -Boost controller
-
-Underdrive Pulley
- -Ignition
- -Fuel management systems (VPC, AFC, GCC,
etc.)
- -13G conversion
- -15G conversion
- -AAM Spec. Competition
Turbos/Manifolds
- -AAM Spec. 3.5" Competition Exhaust
Before long
we'd like to have a large gathering/barbeque at the shop. Early
in the
day we would like to show the installation of a boost controller,
simple
tune up (plugs and wires), and other daily maintenance that will keep
our
cars running their best. Mid day we could strap a few cars down on the
dyno (possible a stock 3000GT VR4 vs. a few heavily modified VR4/Stealth
Twin
Turbos.. Maybe have a Competition to see who's stock car makes the most
power). Later on we could open the cars up on a nice scenic drive,
then head
on over to a restaurant later to have a few drinks.
Talk to
you later,
Mike
1994 Stealth Twin Turbo
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jun 2000 10:28:29 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Correct Plug Residue Color?
Ok, so I pulled the front plugs to
have a look (see previous post on
pinging/detonation for the reason why) and
I was wondering what color
residue is expected.
The plugs have about
10,000mi on them and there's a light(middle
plug)/medium(end plugs) coating
of an orangy-brown substance. I pulled them
about 10 minutes after
running the car for about 20minutes. The residue was
dry and powdery,
almost like very fine rust. Is this expected, or is it an
indication of
a problem?
BTW, I checked the timing and it's within
spec:
Basic timing: 6 degrees BTDC (spec is 5 +/- 3)
Actual
timing: 16 degrees BTDC (spec is 15 +/- 7)
Idle Speed: 770RPM (spec 700 +/-
100)
Advance @1100RPM: 6 degrees
Argh...maybe the noise isn't
actually pinging...but it sure does sound like
it to me. Octane booster
didn't help much (NOS racing formula), so I guess
I'll try replacing the
plugs, fuel filter, and resetting the ECU.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
*** No more ticking
lash adjusters(since 07/99)! ***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
67,000mi
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jun 2000 12:40:57 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Correct Plug Residue Color?
> The plugs have about 10,000mi on
them and there's a light(middle
> plug)/medium(end plugs) coating of an
orangy-brown substance. I pulled them
> about 10 minutes after
running the car for about 20minutes. The residue was
> dry and
powdery, almost like very fine rust. Is this expected, or is it an
>
indication of a problem?
> Argh...maybe the noise isn't actually
pinging...but it sure does sound like
> it to me. Octane booster
didn't help much (NOS racing formula), so I guess
> I'll try replacing the
plugs, fuel filter, and resetting the ECU.
The orange residue is from the
octane booster and is a non-harmful side-effect of using that stuff.
Unfortunately, it can mask the other colorations that you are looking for on the
plugs. How long ago did you use the octane booster? If recently, you
probably won't get true plug colors for a little while. I hesitate to say
give it some hard running to get a better reading, since if you are actually
pinging or there is some sort of piston damage you could easily cause
catastrophic damage to the motor, but if you want to use the plug colors as
indicators, that's what you would need to do.
What do your cylinders read
for compression?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jun 2000 11:26:59 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Correct Plug Residue Color?
> The orange residue is from the
octane booster and is a
> non-harmful side-effect of using that
stuff. Unfortunately,
> it can mask the other colorations that you
are looking for on
> the plugs. How long ago did you use the octane
booster?
About 10 miles before I pulled the plugs.
> If
recently, you probably won't get true plug colors for a
> little
while.
Oh well, I've got about 16 gallons of fuel in there with
octane booster, so
I won't be seeing true plug colors for quite a
while... maybe I'll scrape
a little of the brown junk off on one
of the plugs and see if I can see
anything underneath.
> I hesitate
to say give it some hard running to
> get a better reading, since if you
are actually pinging or
> there is some sort of piston damage you could
easily cause
> catastrophic damage to the motor, but if you want to use
the
> plug colors as indicators, that's what you would need to
do.
Yeah, I'm not going to run it hard for a while, or at least until I
can
check things out...
>
> What do your cylinders
read for compression?
Guess I'll be checking that next...
:)
Thanks, Matt!
- --Erik
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #163
*********************