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From:
owner-team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
(team3s)
To:
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
team3s V1 #162
Reply-To:
Sender:
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team3s
Wednesday, June 7
2000
Volume 01 : Number
162
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:27:24 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bad ECU?
Steve, can you identify the four C's with a picture or
drawing ? It would be
very helpful for us that are sooo far away from you
;-)
Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
> about 7 years.I am
rebuilding about 5 a week at the moment.There are 4
> electrolytic
capacitors in them that start to leak.these have to be
>
replaced.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jun 2000 20:43:05 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
OVERHEATING, prolbem!
I think it is normal.
When you make more hp, for
longer time, the engine makes way more heat--about
2/3+ of the heat an
internal combustion engine makes is WASTED in exhaust and
into the
coolant=radiator has to release it. Thus, it is natural for
5-10
minutes of 200-450hp running to make WAY more heat than 5-10 min at
60hp=cruising
70mph.
Did the car OVERHEAT=Boil Over? THEN you have a
problem. Many cars are designed
to run hot, 210-220 degrees F; ours are
designed cooler via thermostat, but you
are SUPPOSED to see some variation,
and supposed to see it get hotter with high
HP for longer periods.
The
thermostat is designed to START opening (sending coolant to radiator)
at
170F; at light loads, you might not much exceed 170, and the
thermostat may be
open only a little. It is FULLY open at only at
194F!
WITH HIGH HP use, you generate more heat; to dissipate this, the
thermostat
senses it and STARTS OPENING MORE--until, by fully 24F LATER, it
is finally fully
open, at 194F. The needle reflects this 24 degree
change by CLIMBING. With
coolant mix AND the pressure of the cooling
system (15psi?), you shouldn't boil
the coolant until around 230-240
degrees. The extra ~36-46 degrees between 194
and 230-240 is important,
because as the delta T (temperature difference) between
the coolant and
outside air temp (to which the radiator dissipates the heat)
provides more
and more heat loss, as the temp climbs; so though thermostat is all
open by
194 degrees, you still are not maxxing out the cooling system by any
means,
yet.
I sure wouldn't (and don't) worry about it myself. If you boil
over THEN worry,
and check to be sure your fans are coming on at appropriate
times; radiator comes
on at 178-192 degrees; condenser fan comes on at
196-210 degrees F.
Jack Tertadian
jamil.jamal@hrdc-drhc.gc.ca
wrote:
> highway running car hard 160 to 180 km/h 5 to 10
>
minutes. temp. gauge needle moved 4
> notches from normal
operating temperature. I took off-ramp, let off
> gas; 1/2 km
from highway gauge was back to normal.
> Mustang GT wanted race; I was
5500 range for a few minutes--
> needle moved up 2 notches. Running
upper RPM range causes
> temp. gauge to move up 2 to 4 notches.
>
This can't be normal. water pump changed, coolant flushed
> 8 months ago.
49,375 miles
> '95 "Firestorm Red" Stealth RT/TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jun 2000 21:06:56 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: OVERHEATING, prolbem!
> Thus, it is natural for
5-10
>minutes of 200-450hp running to make WAY more heat than 5-10 min
at
60hp=cruising
>70mph.
I agree with Jack T.
I saw elevated
temperatures three weeks ago when we were running at the
Marshalltown Go Kart
track. I was running in 2nd gear, maintaining a 55 mph
average around the
13-turn track, accelerating from 30 mph in tight turns
to about 75 mph on the
short straights continuously for 15-20 minutes at a
time. It didn't boil
over, but the temps started moving high up the gauge
- -- enough for me to
pull off the track and let 'er cool down. I guess if
you ran any car flat out
for 10 miles in second gear it might heat up too.
BTW, it looks like we
might be running at Heartland Park in Topeka on July
22 with the BMW club.
Any body else going? I haven't gotten my confirmation
yet, but it looks
good.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/hot times
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jun 2000 21:15:43 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPS
Clutch Situation Getting Better!
RE: RPS clutch situation
To
confirm what has been recounted by somebody else, I spoke with Rob
Smith at
RPS. He confirms that the independent company they've used to
do
quality control/testing of their products has been testing
the
3000GTVR4/Stealth TT (and some Acuras etc) has been testing the
pressure
plate clamp load improperly; so, our pressure plates have been set
up
"over center" so they are on the DOWNSIDE of clamping force, rather
than
the UPSIDE--it is like the clutch is being depressed a little
just
sitting there, even though you AREN'T pressing on the pedal. This
loses
about 500 lbs of clamping force, and makes the setup have about 21%
less
torque capacity than it could have. They are now in-house testing,
and
discovered the error; so can now give us true 2900 lb pressure
plates,
which with the carbon + ceramic 6 puck disc, should hold about
580
ft-lbs of torque!
My car HAD the low-clamp 2400lb pressure plate,
and the full-carbon (not
half-ceramic, which helps because of faster breakin
etc). so I am going
to install the stronger pressure plate and better disc
setup. I hope it
works...RPS and ACT are both planning a dedicated,
thicker pressure
plate spring to give more pressure yet (Supras have 3600 lbs
so they
don't slip!) but that is not yet available.
Mueller "Redhead"
twin disc is an 8.5" dual disc (ours is ~10" stock)
but uses sintered iron
friction material, which can be harsh/juddery
engagement, and tends to tear
up steel. Mueller told me they consider
it "race only", and I need to
use it on the street, traffic jams etc. so
am not yet going to spring the
$2000 for that deal. The OS Giken
twindisc, is hard to get, nobody
knows about how hard to get it
SERVICED, and also ~$2000.
I have to
admire RPS, they DID science out the problem with the pressure
plates, have
corrected that, and considering how relatively few of our
cars they are
(compared to the HORDES of Hondas etc) are spending time
and brainpower on
our situation. Because they are used alot, problems
will show up for
them alot (stands to reason)...but they keep learning
and thereby advancing
OUR situation and so I'll stick with them. I can
sure understand the
frustration, I have it myself!
Jack Tertadian
Still fastest, using an
RPS TurboClutch :) 10.81 @ 128.44 @ 3850
lbs
vehicle/driver :(
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:31:23 -0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: OVERHEATING, prolbem!
Have you tried Red Line's Water Wetter? This
reduced temps in my friend's
racecar (dirt track) significantly, and this is
in central Florida, where
it's already in the mid 90's during the
day.
Matt
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jun 2000 21:42:24 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: OVERHEATING, prolbem!
At 10:31 PM 6/6/00 -0400, Michael
Booker wrote:
>Have you tried Red Line's Water Wetter? This reduced temps
in my friend's
>racecar (dirt track) significantly, and this is in central
Florida, where
>it's already in the mid 90's during the day.
>
An
instructor told me to just replace about half the antifreeze with tap
water,
essentially leaving just enough for lubrication and
corrosion
protection.
I have not had this overheating problem before,
so I suspect it was just
all the 2nd-gear running. Before I put on Brad's Big
Reds, I couldn't run
that many laps before feeling brake fade.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:54:20 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Re: OVERHEATING, prolbem!
WW is perfectly safe with pure
distilled water, and bout two bottles.
Lubes and chemically balances the
system perfectly.
I run 100% water +2 bottles in all my street and race
cars.
Should I live in an area that frezes..I drain then add a quart of
A/F, then
flush it all clean in the spring again (because you should do this
once a year
anyway)
NOTHING cools better than pure water, and WW aids
in cavitation around the
cylinder walls. A higher pressure cap also
helps a lot as well.
Pure water is also much lighter than an A/F mix, and
will pump easier at high
RPMs, and cavitate less in the water pump (which
adds a huge amount of drag in
the fins).
Adding tap water is a bad
thing to do..very ill advised. Messes up your Ph and
mineral makeup of
your cooling system a lot.
:-----Original Message-----
:From: Merritt
[
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
:Sent:
Tuesday, June 06, 2000 7:42 PM
:To: Michael Booker; Team3S
:Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: OVERHEATING, prolbem!
:
:
:At 10:31 PM 6/6/00 -0400,
Michael Booker wrote:
:>Have you tried Red Line's Water Wetter? This
reduced temps in
:my friend's
:>racecar (dirt track) significantly,
and this is in central
:Florida, where
:>it's already in the mid 90's
during the day.
:>
:An instructor told me to just replace about half
the
:antifreeze with tap
:water, essentially leaving just enough for
lubrication and corrosion
:protection.
:
:I have not had this
overheating problem before, so I suspect
:it was just
:all the 2nd-gear
running. Before I put on Brad's Big Reds, I
:couldn't run
:that many laps
before feeling brake fade.
:
:Rich/old poop/94
VR4
:
:
:
:***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
:
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:58:08 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Bad ECU?
Steve
1] The electrolytic caps are usually easy to spot
---- are there only four or are
there four problem caps plus others.
2] Is the voltage and capitance marked on the devices and if not what
are the values.
3] Can you detect the early stages of leakage or only
after they fail.
Any response would be apperciated --- it's always nice
to save $700us.
Jim
Berry
=========================================================
Back
to the point -all Mitsi ECUs start to fail at
> about 7 years.I am
rebuilding about 5 a week at the moment.There are 4
> electrolytic
capacitors in them that start to leak.these have to be
> replaced.If you
leave it too long then tracks underneath will be corroded
> away and will
have to be strapped and in some severe cases repair is not
>
possible.check for a fishy smell inside.BTW I charge $nz 100 each if
they
> are brought to me ,thats $us 50 and any competent TV or VCR
technician
> should be able to do it if you explain
this
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:19:27 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RPS Clutch Situation Getting Better!
I sent my group purchase RPS Turbo
Carbon in to RPS for a checkup prior to
installing in my car ---- the new
improved 6 puck disk was returned. It has
alternating pucks of carbon
fiber [ black stuff anyway ] and a bronze looking
material [ somebody said
ceramic ]. If looks count for anything it should be a
winner.
I plan on
installing it next month, but with only 400 hp I won't be able to give it
a
proper thrashing. If any of you big HP guys get it installed let us
know.
BTW, are any of the other performance cars using the same clutch or are
we
the test group ???
Jim
berry
====================================================
xwing
wrote:
> RE: RPS clutch situation
>
> To confirm
what has been recounted by somebody else, I spoke with Rob
> Smith at
RPS. He confirms that the independent company they've used
to
> do quality control/testing of their products has been testing
the
> 3000GTVR4/Stealth TT (and some Acuras etc) has been testing the
pressure
> plate clamp load improperly; so, our pressure plates have been
set up
> "over center" so they are on the DOWNSIDE of clamping force,
rather than
> the UPSIDE--it is like the clutch is being depressed a
little just
> sitting there, even though you AREN'T pressing on the
pedal. This loses
> about 500 lbs of clamping force, and makes the
setup have about 21% less
> torque capacity than it could have. They
are now in-house testing, and
> discovered the error; so can now give us
true 2900 lb pressure plates,
> which with the carbon + ceramic 6 puck
disc, should hold about 580
> ft-lbs of torque!
>
> My car
HAD the low-clamp 2400lb pressure plate, and the full-carbon (not
>
half-ceramic, which helps because of faster breakin etc). so I am going
>
to install the stronger pressure plate and better disc setup. I hope
it
> works...RPS and ACT are both planning a dedicated, thicker
pressure
> plate spring to give more pressure yet (Supras have 3600 lbs so
they
> don't slip!) but that is not yet available.
>
>
.
>
> I have to admire RPS, they DID science out the problem with
the pressure
> plates, have corrected that, and considering how relatively
few of our
> cars they are (compared to the HORDES of Hondas etc) are
spending time
> and brainpower on our situation. Because they are
used alot, problems
> will show up for them alot (stands to reason)...but
they keep learning
> and thereby advancing OUR situation and so I'll stick
with them. I can
> sure understand the frustration, I have it
myself!
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 21:31:25 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
RPS Clutch Situation Getting Better!
I sent my group purchase RPS Turbo
Carbon in to RPS for a checkup prior to
installing in my car ---- the
new improved 6 puck disk was returned. It has
alternating pucks of
carbon fiber [ black stuff anyway ] and a bronze looking
material [ somebody
said ceramic ]. If looks count for anything it should be a
winner.
I plan on installing it next month, but with only 400 hp I won't be
able to give it
a proper thrashing. If any of you big HP guys get it
installed let us know.
BTW, are any of the other performance cars using the
same clutch or are we
the test group ???
Jim
berry
====================================================
xwing
wrote:
> RE: RPS clutch situation
>
> To confirm
what has been recounted by somebody else, I spoke with Rob
> Smith at
RPS. He confirms that the independent company they've used
to
> do quality control/testing of their products has been testing
the
> 3000GTVR4/Stealth TT (and some Acuras etc) has been testing the
pressure
> plate clamp load improperly; so, our pressure plates have been
set up
> "over center" so they are on the DOWNSIDE of clamping force,
rather than
> the UPSIDE--it is like the clutch is being depressed a
little just
> sitting there, even though you AREN'T pressing on the
pedal. This loses
> about 500 lbs of clamping force, and makes the
setup have about 21% less
> torque capacity than it could have. They
are now in-house testing, and
> discovered the error; so can now give us
true 2900 lb pressure plates,
> which with the carbon + ceramic 6 puck
disc, should hold about 580
> ft-lbs of torque!
>
> My car
HAD the low-clamp 2400lb pressure plate, and the full-carbon (not
>
half-ceramic, which helps because of faster breakin etc). so I am going
>
to install the stronger pressure plate and better disc setup. I hope
it
> works...RPS and ACT are both planning a dedicated, thicker
pressure
> plate spring to give more pressure yet (Supras have 3600 lbs so
they
> don't slip!) but that is not yet available.
>
>
.
>
> I have to admire RPS, they DID science out the problem with
the pressure
> plates, have corrected that, and considering how
relatively few of our
> cars they are (compared to the HORDES of Hondas
etc) are spending time
> and brainpower on our situation. Because
they are used alot, problems
> will show up for them alot (stands to
reason)...but they keep learning
> and thereby advancing OUR situation and
so I'll stick with them. I can
sure understand the frustration, I have
it myself!
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 07 Jun 2000 00:38:04 -0400
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@iname.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil
Temps
Hi,
What should our oil temperature run in a
VR4/TT?
Where should one locate an oil temp probe??
There was a
lot of discussion in an open track list about Stang oil
temps. The
consensus was that oil temps should be below 250F and the
probe/sender
installed in the oil pan.
After several overheating episodes and
hopefully only having a blown
headgasket, I'm considering installing an oil
temp gauge to perhaps
forewarn me of overheating in the future.
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche brakes &
Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:03:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turn CD'd rotors?
Can I have my new porterfield rotors lightly
turned to give a new fresh
face for ne pads..and to remove any small
warping/badness?
Thanks.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 20:57:34 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad ECU?
Hello again from down under.Sorry I'm no good at
drawings on a
computer.There are only 4 electrolytic capacitors on the
circuit board,some
have only 3,there are lots of different models
depending on 4 cyl,6cyl
,turbo,non turbo,auto,manual,anyway they are
cylindrical blue or
black,marked + and - two of them are normally marked 50v
47mf ,I forget the
other 2.Always replace with slightly higher voltage rating
and never use
standard 85 dedree rating only 105 degree rating.hope this
helps.Symptoms
can be hard starting ,stalling etc and get worse with
time.remember a stitch
in time saves time or more like $$$$$$.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 07, 2000 5:27 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad
ECU?
> Steve, can you identify the four C's with a picture or
drawing ? It would
be
> very helpful for us that are sooo far away from
you ;-)
>
> Roger, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TT
>
>
> about 7 years.I am rebuilding about 5 a week at the moment.There are
4
> > electrolytic capacitors in them that start to leak.these have to
be
> > replaced.
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 21:10:16 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad ECU?
Sorry I forgot but I did a search some months ago.I
just seached for
Mitsubishi ECU .try
it
Steve Black
Mitsubishi 93 GTO
----- Original Message -----
From:
R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stTo:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 07, 2000 5:27 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad
ECU?
> Steve, can you identify the four C's with a picture or
drawing ? It would
be
> very helpful for us that are sooo far away from
you ;-)
>
> Roger, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TT
>
>
> about 7 years.I am rebuilding about 5 a week at the moment.There are
4
> > electrolytic capacitors in them that start to leak.these have to
be
> > replaced.
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 11:47:57 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Lash
Killer Set
Hi,
Bozz speed have something they call "Lash Killer
Set", do anyone have any
knowledge about this product? Pros and
cons?
This is what Bozz say about the product:
"The Lash Killer Set
enables valves to close under extremely high rev
conditions, thus creating
more power and torque throughout the rev-range. "
/Mikael Kenson (former
known as Åkesson)
http://www.3000gt.nu***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 09:21:49 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bad ECU?
http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htmThose
instructions are for the DSM ECU, but 3/S cars should be similar in approach to
replacing them. Double-check the values!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 01:27:58 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Burned ECU?
Foreign Auto Computer Repair ECU
20%
15404 Plantation Oaks #2
Tampa, FL 33647 USA
Phone:
813-977-5365 Phone: 813-977-8505 FAX: 813-977-8505
E-mail:
acorbin@prodigy.net Web:
http://foreignecurepair.com/ (This
site
looks DiSgUsTiNg!)
ECU's and TCU's,most units in stock,including
hard to find e-prom units for
1st Gen turbo DSMs. Rebuild and return service.
Competitive pricing,
overnight shipping, credit cards
accepted.
_____
MasterTech ECU
1405 Bayport
Blvd
Seabrook, TX 77586 US
Phone: 888-ECM-TOGO Phone: 281-474-7510 FAX:
281-291-0962
E-mail:
mastert@flash.net Web:
http://www.ecmtogo.com/ECU repair for
all Mitsubishi vechicles.
_____
Those are two well known, and
decently priced "ECU REPAIR" shops that are in
the DSM Vendors list. I would
suggest you call both up, and get more prices,
and talk to them about the
"burn mark" on your 3/S ECU.
DSM ECU's usually can be had for less than
200$ (non-eprom), so 3/S ones
shouldn't be too much more! I'm also sure that
it can't cost 600$+ to REPAIR
your current ECU, that might be a good option
too, since your car still
runs, maybe it's not totally
un-salvagable.
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
PS: here is another one, but I don't know anything about
them.
_____
Automotive Computer Supply/ECM Finders
ECU 20%
PO Box 890693
Houston, Texas 77289 USA
Phone:
877-ECM-7477 Phone: 281-ECM-0330 FAX: 877-326-4520
E-mail:
ecmorder@earthlink.net Web:
http://www.ecmfinders.com/ECM
Finders- New, Rebuilt, Used units up to 18 month warranty unlimited
milage.
Specializing in Mitsubishi mfd ECM rebuilding. Also specializing
in
Mitsubishi Parts locating.
(here is a statement they make, which
really isn't a bunch of "hog-wash"
"Mitsubishi made units are rare and
subsequently much more expensive. From
1989 to 1994 all Mitsubishi
manufactured ECMs were made with component parts
many auto electric experts
(including our expert technical research team)
consider inferior.
|source| -
http://www.ecmfinders.com/more.htm")_____
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:40:08 EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Re: Hi, i
have a problem with the clutch, can anyone please help?
> Hi My name is Christian, I have a 92
3000GT. I am having a problem with
>the clutch, all of the sudden it
had no pressure, and I am having a hard
>timing shifting into reverse, and
even 1st gear now. I checked the clutch
>fluid and it was pretty
empty, I added more, but it still the same. It
>seems
>as if
the clutch needs to be re-adjusted or something, does anyone have
any
>ideas? Any tips would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
It
sounds like you have air in the lines. This time instead of just adding
fluid, bleed out your lines to get the air out ... a clutch with air in it
usually has a "spongy" feel so if your car has the symptom you defenitely
need to bleed it.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 12:47:48 EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Quick
question about 60K tune up on 3S Web page
Hi, I was looking at the
instructions for the 60K tune up on the 3S web page
(
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/60k.htm),
and I was just wondering if the
instructions and part numbers on this page
are for earlier models or for
newer models. I think the part numbers
for 92-96 models are different from
other models and I have a '94 so I just
want to make sure that I am buying
the right parts before I actually do this
tune up.
Thanks in advance for your help!
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jun 2000 10:50:18 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Pinging/knocking/detonation
Hi all,
I know this topic has
been discussed ad nauseam and keeps coming
back every once in a while.. so
it's my turn :-) The catch is that this
time it's regarding a NA
car. My aftermarket radio died recently, so I've
had plenty of time to
listen more closely to the noises my engine is making,
and I think it's
pinging substantially more than I remember in the past.
I've always heard
pinging in "you're in too high of a gear, dummy"
situations, but it seems to
take less to get it to ping lately, and I'm a
bit concerned. I usually
try to make sure I'm in whatever gear will keep me
at or above 2000RPM when
I'm cruising, and when I'm stompin' on it, I keep
it in the 3500RPM and up
range. The pinging I hear now is not that
noticeable above 3500RPM
(although engine noise may be drowning it out), and
I don't hear it very much
if the windows are up and the radio is on.
However I'm pretty sure it IS
pinging. To test things out, I tried driving
on some residential
streets at 20-35mph. If I shift to 3rd or 4th at 25mph,
it'll ping like
the coins from the ashtray fund moved into my cylinders. In
1st gear I
really don't hear much of anything; and in 2nd I hear light
pinging in the
1000-3500RPM range if the throttle is more than about halfway
pressed.
I think I can pick out a slight pinging above 3500RPM, but it's
hard to hear
with the wind/engine noise. The car seems to be making decent
power - I
had my friend in his stock base 3k follow me last week, and I was
pulling
away from him when we were both at WOT in 2nd gear).
So I've had a couple of
friends listen to it (they think it's
pinging as well), and I rode in my
friend's 3000GT (basically same as mine)
and I can't hear the pinging in his
car. I'll probably ask him if I can
drive his car and listen just to
make sure.
A couple things also make me think that there's something
amiss
here: my gas mileage has been down 3-4mpg for the last 2-3tanks
and when I
hear the noise (that I think may be pinging), the car does seem to
be
lacking some power. I've been going to the same gas station
(Chevron) at
the same location for the last year or so, so I don't think I
got a bad tank
of gas.
So what do I do? :)
I figure that
I can assess whether it really is pinging by throwing a bottle
of the 104
octane booster stuff in with my next tank of gas and see if the
pinging goes
away... good plan? I've never used that stuff.
Assuming it is
pinging, what should I check out? This isn't a TT car, so
the boost
isn't set too high. Pinging/knock is caused by an excessively
lean
condition, right? So what would make my car run lean (other than
really
bad stuff like a fried ECU/bad MAS/dead fuel pump)?
* K&N
Filter? The ECU should be able to compensate for
that, right?
I've had it for about a year now and I
did reset the ECU when I installed
it.
* Resonator removal? I don't see how....
* EGR valve
stuck closed? Could be, but it's not just
when I step off the throttle
quickly. It's during
smooth (low-RPM) acceleration, so the EGR valve
should be closed then anyway, right?
* Poor injector spray
pattern? It's only got 70,000mi
on it, and I cleaned it with BG 44K
(supposedly
industrial strength FI cleaner from my dealer) last
year. I only use Chevron/Texaco gas as well.
* Carbon
build-up on tops of pistons? Again, only
70,000mi on the car, so this
shouldn't be an issue,
right?
* Spark plugs/wires? Both replaced
last summer with
60,000mi service. I checked the gap on the plugs
myself as I took them out of the boxes. I'll pull
the front bank
plugs and have a look. Anything
special I should be looking
for?
* Something else I'm not thinking of? :)
Thanks for
reading my really long post and for your input!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
*** No more ticking
lash adjusters(since 07/99)! ***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000"
Corolla
67,000mi
-
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***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #162
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