team3s
Tuesday, June 6
2000
Volume 01 : Number
161
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 12:23:26 EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Re: Turbos
on non turbos?
>Does anyone know if they make a supercharger of any
kind for the non turbo
>early model 3000GT's? Also anyone ever use
an adjustable suspension from
>Ground Control?
>Jim
I've
heard that they make an SL TT kit that let's you add twin turbos to your
current SL. I've never seen it, but people on the Starnet list were talking
about it (or maybe it was the Dragnet list), they said you can get it for
about $7000.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 10:44:55 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R
> I finally got my APEXi AVC-R working right. But
why cant I get First gear to
> reach 1.00. I have the start duty set at
50% in first gear. My boost is set
> to 1.00 and 65% Duty. Feed Back is
97533. If I am lucky 1st will reach .80
> kg/cm2. thank you
Alex
Since first gear accelerations reach redline so quickly, there isn't
enough time
to reach full boost. On my '91 with stock cats, I usually
acheive .90 - 1.0
kg/cm^^2 in first gear.
Also, what does your 65%
duty refer too? It that your intial duty setting at
the start of
learning? If so, it might be so high that you have a lot of
spiking at
early RPM (use your peak boost hold feature and perform a few
accels
from 2500-4000 RPM). If your peak is higher than your boost
setting, lower your
intitial duty setting and relearn your duty curve.
I typically use an intitial
duty setting in the 45% range for max boost of
1.05. Remember that learning
becomes disabled if you're greatly
overshooting your specified boost setting.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 16:28:59 -0500
From: Jim Wiseman <
jim.wiseman@wcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bad ECU?
I've only had my '92 TT back about 2 weeks after having
both turbos replaced
(oil starvation due to coked up oil feed lines). The car
has started surging
at highway speed, the turbo boost gauge is dead (doesn't
register vacuum or
boost at all), the car won't come off idle without
stalling until it's
warmed up, backfires when lifting off gas. The shop
said they diagnosed a
bad ECU (found a burn mark on it, they said).
Anyway, they're talking about
$625 for a rebuilt ECU (12 month/12k warranty)
installed.
Does anyone know if this sounds legit? I thought I trusted
these guys but I
have to wonder if there was anything they could have done
while replacing
the turbos that might have caused this. Also, has anyone had
good or bad
luck with rebuilt ECU's? Has anyone else had an ECU go bad and
experience
these symptoms? Thanks for the help.
Jim
A sick
'92 TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 16:40:05 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad ECU?
At 04:28 PM 6/5/00 -0500, Jim Wiseman
wrote:
>I've only had my '92 TT back about 2 weeks after having both
turbos replaced
>(oil starvation due to coked up oil feed lines). The car
has started surging
>at highway speed, the turbo boost gauge is dead
(doesn't register vacuum or
>boost at all), the car won't come off idle
without stalling until it's
>warmed up, backfires when lifting off
gas.
Gee. Sounds to me like a vacuum leak -- like a hose came off
somewhere.
Except for the dead boost gauge, I had an old Corvette that acted
the same
way when a line came loose.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/living in a
vacuum here in Iowa
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 17:00:15 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bad ECU?
> I've only had my '92 TT back about 2 weeks after
having both turbos replaced
> (oil starvation due to coked up oil feed
lines). The car has started surging
> at highway speed, the turbo boost
gauge is dead (doesn't register vacuum or
> boost at all), the car won't
come off idle without stalling until it's
> warmed up, backfires when
lifting off gas. The shop said they diagnosed a
> bad ECU (found a
burn mark on it, they said). Anyway, they're talking about
> $625
for a rebuilt ECU (12 month/12k warranty) installed.
Sounds a little
fishy to me. If they didn't disconnect the battery and started fiddling
around in the engine compartment, anything is possible. Is the wiring
harness connected to the MAF sensor? If it isn't, the car will still
somewhat run (although very poorly), you'll get a check engine light, the boost
gauge will probably be dead since there's no airflow reading coming into the
ECU, and it'll backfire because the ECU runs the car extremely rich to protect
the engine enough to let you limp home. If the cable is connected, they
may have sliced it somewhere and then it caused a short which hosed the
ECU.
Seems to me like it should be something that they caused. ECUs
don't normally just "go" at the same time as turbos. Maybe coincidence,
but I'd scowl at the mechanics first and see what they do.
What other
troubleshooting steps did they perform before pointing a finger at the
ECU?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 18:42:36 EDT
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Airconditioner Problems
I am in need of a clutch head assembly
including pulley for my 1991 Dodge
Stealth RT 24 valve non-turbo. If
anyone out there has a spare or knows of
anyone who may have a used one,
please let me know.
Thanks
Merrisa
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 18:11:01 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: "honking" noise for K&N FIPK
You know? I never knew
exactly what everyone meant by "honking" noise... I
occaisionally had the
noise too, and it was associated with a loss of power
at the same throttle
position. Flooring it made it worse. It happened around
2500-3500 rpms,
usually when "lugging" the engine by not being in the
optimum gear for how
much the throttle is pressed.
Now, with the 1g DSM BOV, I have NEVER
heard or felt the "honking"
syndrome... which all this time I thought was
somehow related to the K&N
FIPK. I guess it's really just the stock 3/S
BOV, and some
whistling/resonance cause by it's "leaky" design.
Vineet
Singh - No more goose stuck under the hood :)
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
Yogourt@aol.com>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Friday, June 02, 2000 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: "honking" noise for K&N
FIPK
> I had the same problem when I put on my k&N. I
replaced the factory
blowoff
> valve with a 1st gen eclipse BOV and the
noise went away.
>
> Paul
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 18:14:25 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: "honking" noise for K&N FIPK
> Now, with the 1g DSM
BOV, I have NEVER heard or felt the "honking"
> syndrome... which all this
time I thought was somehow related to the K&N
> FIPK. I guess it's
really just the stock 3/S BOV, and some
> whistling/resonance cause by
it's "leaky" design.
Yup, I had it at partial throttle during transitions
between slight boost and slight vacuum. Gone with the 1G DSM BOV.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 20:04:40 EDT
From:
Mitsukid99@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Found problem on wheel shimmy..
The wheel itself. :( Damaged, it
has too much runout.
So, does anyone happen to have a stock 5star chrome
17" lying around(stock on
93VR-4) for sale?
Ant
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 20:21:53 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rocker Ratio?
Anyone know what the stock rocker ratio is on the
twin turbos? It
appears to be at least 1.6, maybe even 1.7.
Anyone put a solid tappet
with zero lash and check valve lift vs cam lift?
(of course you wouldn't
run your engine this way)
Thanks,
Joe
Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 18:13:10 -0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rocker Ratio?
If you have your cams out, you can measure the lobe
both ways (tall/short)
subtract one from the other and you have cam lift.
The service manual
should have the valve lift. With these two sets of
figures, you can get
your rocker ratio......
Wayne
At
07:21 PM 06/05/2000 , Joe Gonsowski wrote:
>Anyone know what the stock
rocker ratio is on the twin turbos?
>
>Thanks,
>Joe
Gonsowski
>'92 R/T TT
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 22:03:51 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rocker Ratio?
Wayne wrote:
> If you have your cams
out, you can measure the lobe both ways (tall/short)
> subtract one from
the other and you have cam lift. The service manual
> should have the
valve lift. With these two sets of figures, you can get
> your rocker
ratio......
Valve lift is what I'm actually looking for so I can test my
new springs at
installed height (1.492") as well as full lift. I know
cam lift for intake
and exhuast, but not the valve lift. Knowing rocker
ratio or valve lift will
give me the answer I'm looking for.
BTW -
does anyone know why seat load changed over the years (seat load is
spring
load while on basecircle - a.k.a. installed height). In '92 it
was
62lbs and by '95 it was down to 53lbs.
Thanks Wayne for the
reply,
Slo Joe
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 19:25:32 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <
murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bad ECU?
ECU's just dont die
I bet these guys fried
it.
it is also possible that the AFM is not plugged in or is not plugged
in
right. check the connector at the air filter and try
again.
otherwise, good luck
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 19:45:46 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
94 brakes on a 92?
> Actually, the Porsche brakes will clear the stock
91-93 Mitsubishi wheels.
> You can just fit a business card between the
wheel and caliper though. Not
> sure what would happen if a
wheel was slightly bent, or the wheel weights
> were placed in the wrong
position :-D. Dave Skultety (sp?) had the 17" 93
>
Mitsubishi wheels and had no clearance problems when the wheel flexed in
a
> corner.
>
> I remember testing the Stealth wheels and they
not fitting.
> (I'd like to check again if someone has a stealth in the
Austin Area)
=====================================================
I
tried putting my old 17" 93 Stealth wheels on my newely installed Big
Reds.
As Brad mentioned with the Mitsu wheels, the clearence was about
.015".
The wheel would turn but the clearance is so small that I wouldn't
drive the
car like that, let alone race it !!!
PS. I run the car
with 94 17" VR4 wheels with the Big Red calipers.
Jim Berry
>>> 93 stealth TT
---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FIPK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
--- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
---
GC/Eibach 600# F/350# R --- GC caster/camber
plate
Yokohama AVS sport
255x40x17
Porsche/Brembo [ big red ] calipers --- KVR 315mm
rotors
Roadrace engineering rear strut
tower
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 20:43:16 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject:
Team3S: Hood weight.
Anyone recall how much the stock hood
weighs?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 22:51:34 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hood weight.
54 lbs..... just weighed it
for a 1992
hood (with insulation)
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSent: Monday,
June 05, 2000 10:43 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Hood weight.
Anyone recall how much the stock hood
weighs?
***Info:
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 01:04:30 -0700
From: "aa2345" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
CLUTCH PROBLEM
Hello Christian,
I have a 93 Stealth base with a
5sp trans. I have had a similar problem
with my clutch 2,000 miles
ago. The symptoms were hard shifting into
reverse and 1st. If I
pumped the chutch twice or three times (not
necessarily all the way) before
putting it into gear it seemed to help -- it
may have something to do with
building the required pressure. At one point
I had so little pressure
in the system that my clutch pedal got stuck at the
bottom without it being
engaged. If that happens, pull the pedal with your
foot or hand.
However that was only a temporary fix (treated the symptom
only). The
cylinder near the clutch pedal was leaking (I think that's the
slave
cylinder). I had both slave and master cylinders changed, and
the
problem stopped. The car has 110K miles, so that you can get an
idea of how
long they lasted. It seems like normal wear and tear to me
because the car
saw 2 clutch changes so far (about 55K for each).
Good
luck. There are other people on the list that know more about this
than
I do. This was personal experience, not expertize. Listen to what
the
experts have to say before you start changing the
cylinders.
Mike,
93 Red Stealth 5sp
Detroit Metro
Area
Get this looked at ASAP because I also had other transmission
problems (2000
miles ago), but am not sure if the leaking slave cylinder
caused 1st gear,
reverse, and 5th gear to give out on me or the other way
around.
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 23:05:19 EDT
From:
Playenfun@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Hi, i
have a problem with the clutch, can anyone
please
help?
Hi My name is Christian, I have a 92
3000GT. I am having a problem with
the clutch, all of the sudden it had
no pressure, and I am having a hard
timing shifting into reverse, and even
1st gear now. I checked the clutch
fluid and it was pretty empty, I
added more, but it still the same. It
seems
as if the clutch needs
to be re-adjusted or something, does anyone have any
ideas? Any tips would be
greatly appreciated, thank you.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 22:56:43 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Pump/Injector Q's
- --A few quick questions regarding
instructions
listed in the service manual:
1) Is it really necessary
to drain the fuel from
the fuel tank when replacing the fuel pump?
2)
Is it really necessary to use the special 3M
sealant when putting the fuel
pump cover back on?
3) Is it really necessary to drain the coolant
when
replacing the fuel injectors?
4) Is it really necessary to
replace the insulators
(small round pieces on the bottom of the
injector)
when replacing the fuel injectors?
5) What about the rubber
o-rings on the fuel rail?
Is it necessary to replace them?
6) Any
special words of caution/advice when
replacing the fuel
injectors?
Thanks in advance!!!
- --Errin Humphrey
94 VR4 -
15G
Seattle
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 23:19:20 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel Pump/Injector Q's
> --A few quick questions regarding
instructions
> listed in the service manual:
>
> 1) Is it
really necessary to drain the fuel from
> the fuel tank when replacing the
fuel pump?
No. Just follow good safe practices like not throwing
lit matches into the
fuel tank. Open flame might cause some negative
side effects. Cover up the
hole with a rag to prevent debris from
getting in there. I didn't drain
mine but did change the pump when
there was less than an 1/8 of a tank. Be
careful not to cause sparks
either from friction or from electrical -- the
battery will be removed from
the car anyway right?
> 2) Is it really necessary to use the special
3M
> sealant when putting the fuel pump cover back on?
I reused the
rubber gasket on mine -- sealed well. If yours is intact when
you
disaaemble it shouldbe fine, but they do tend to get brittle over time.
If it
is brittle, best to foolow the manual's advice.
> 3) Is it really
necessary to drain the coolant when
> replacing the fuel
injectors?
It is a good idea to drain it down a bit but I did not
completely drain
mine.
> 4) Is it really necessary to replace the
insulators
> (small round pieces on the bottom of the injector)
>
when replacing the fuel injectors?
Again, if they are brittle and
deteriorating, it is a good idea, otherwise
they should be fine.
>
5) What about the rubber o-rings on the fuel rail?
> Is it necessary to
replace them?
As above. I chose to replace mine though.
>
6) Any special words of caution/advice when
> replacing the fuel
injectors?
Don't drop any of the little rubber o-rings, the insulators or
the clips
into the engine. Don't drop any of the little rubber o-rings,
the
insulators or the clips into the engine. It does stand repeating
;) They
do seem to jump out of one's hand. Freedom is too
tempting for them I
guess.
Those little parts for some reason are hard
to locate and if they get into
the engine you'll not be a happy
camperette.
Check and double check alignment of the fuel rails and apply
correct torque
settings as per the manual. I did find that it was easy
to mis-align the
rail and keep all the seals/spacers in place at the same
time. A leaky
injector was the result the first time I did it.
Keep the work area nice
and clean so crud doesn't fall into the injector
holes. Treat the injectors
gently. The fuel rail bolts look like
they would strip easily so be
cautious there and use proper torue. Said
that already. Guess I'm done.
Have fun!
> Thanks in
advance!!!
>
> --Errin Humphrey
> 94 VR4 - 15G
>
Seattle
Barry
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:44:59 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad ECU?
Hello from New Zealand, I'm new to the
list,just been reading emails for
the last couple of months.Anyway I've got a
93 jap import GTO with a
complete custom exhaust-no cats, air filter and
manual bleeder valve and
have a best ET of 12.60 Back to the point -all
Mitsi ECUs start to fail at
about 7 years.I am rebuilding about 5 a week at
the moment.There are 4
electrolytic capacitors in them that start to
leak.these have to be
replaced.If you leave it too long then tracks
underneath will be corroded
away and will have to be strapped and in some
severe cases repair is not
possible.check for a fishy smell inside.BTW I
charge $nz 100 each if they
are brought to me ,thats $us 50 and any competent
TV or VCR technician
should be able to do it if you explain
this
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wiseman <
jim.wiseman@wcom.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:28 AM
Subject: Team3S: Bad ECU?
> I've
only had my '92 TT back about 2 weeks after having both
turbos
replaced
> (oil starvation due to coked up oil feed lines). The
car has started
surging
> at highway speed, the turbo boost gauge is
dead (doesn't register vacuum
or
> boost at all), the car won't come
off idle without stalling until it's
> warmed up, backfires when lifting
off gas. The shop said they diagnosed a
> bad ECU (found a burn mark
on it, they said). Anyway, they're talking
about
> $625 for a
rebuilt ECU (12 month/12k warranty) installed.
>
> Does anyone know
if this sounds legit? I thought I trusted these guys but
I
> have to
wonder if there was anything they could have done while replacing
> the
turbos that might have caused this. Also, has anyone had good or bad
>
luck with rebuilt ECU's? Has anyone else had an ECU go bad and
experience
> these symptoms? Thanks for the help.
>
>
Jim
> A sick '92 TT
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jun 2000 19:25:16 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel Pump/Injector Q's
> > 3) Is it really necessary to
drain the coolant when
> > replacing the fuel injectors?
No
absolutely not. There is no need for this :)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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End
of team3s V1 #161
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