team3s
Monday, June 5
2000
Volume 01 : Number
160
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 4 Jun 2000 20:13:45 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hi, i have a problem with the clutch, can anyone plea se
help?
You have air in the system now...bleed the air out, and all will be
fine.
Check for any leaks..the system shouldnt have just gone dry like
that.
:-----Original Message-----
:From: Playenfun@aol.com [mailto:Playenfun@aol.com]
:Sent: Sunday,
June 04, 2000 8:05 PM
:To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
:Subject:
Team3S: Hi, i have a problem with the clutch, can
:anyone
please
:help?
:
:
: Hi My name is Christian, I
have a 92 3000GT. I am having
:a problem with
:the clutch, all of
the sudden it had no pressure, and I am
:having a hard
:timing shifting
into reverse, and even 1st gear now. I
:checked the clutch
:fluid
and it was pretty empty, I added more, but it still the
:same. It
seems
:as if the clutch needs to be re-adjusted or something, does
:anyone have any
:ideas? Any tips would be greatly appreciated, thank
you.
:
:***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
:
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 04 Jun 2000 22:28:23 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
RPS Carbon/ceramic disks
I have the 6-carbon-puck metal disc with "turbo
clutch" pressure plate,
and now
can say that it sucks. It slips
slips slips on drag launch, and after
being at track twice, making about 5
passes total, it is G O N E.
I am calling RPS Monday, I can't go on like
this, one disc after
another slipping. These R&R's cost
$...
Jack T.
Oskar wrote:
> Who is using the RPS
carbon/ceramic puck disk? I'd like to get some
> feedback on this
disk. Allegedly these have been shipped to many 3/S
> customers over
the past 4 months.
>
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
>
>
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 4 Jun 2000 20:42:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: RPS Carbon/ceramic disks
TO heck with this..I think im
gonna stay with ACT.
On Sun, 4 Jun 2000, xwing wrote:
> I have
the 6-carbon-puck metal disc with "turbo clutch" pressure plate,
> and
now
> can say that it sucks. It slips slips slips on drag launch,
and after
> being at track twice, making about 5 passes total, it is G O N
E.
> I am calling RPS Monday, I can't go on like this, one disc
after
> another slipping. These R&R's cost $...
> Jack
T.
>
> Oskar wrote:
>
> > Who is using the RPS
carbon/ceramic puck disk? I'd like to get some
> > feedback on
this disk. Allegedly these have been shipped to many 3/S
> >
customers over the past 4 months.
> >
> > Oskar
> >
'95 R/T TT
> >
> > ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
> ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 4 Jun 2000 23:00:58 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: RPS Carbon/ceramic disks
* I ordered my O.S. Giken clutch
last Wednesday.
I'm going to consider my clutch problem
"solved"
Wonder what Rob will do for me, since I have a nice RPS clutch
that is still
in the box.
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 10:43 PM
To:
xwing
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: RPS Carbon/ceramic
disks
TO heck with this..I think im gonna stay with ACT.
On Sun, 4
Jun 2000, xwing wrote:
> I have the 6-carbon-puck metal disc with
"turbo clutch" pressure plate,
> and now
> can say that it
sucks. It slips slips slips on drag launch, and after
> being at
track twice, making about 5 passes total, it is G O N E.
> I am calling
RPS Monday, I can't go on like this, one disc after
> another
slipping. These R&R's cost $...
> Jack T.
>
> Oskar
wrote:
>
> > Who is using the RPS carbon/ceramic puck disk?
I'd like to get some
> > feedback on this disk. Allegedly these
have been shipped to many 3/S
> > customers over the past 4
months.
> >
> > Oskar
> > '95 R/T TT
>
>
> > ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
>
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 4 Jun 2000 21:04:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: RPS Carbon/ceramic disks
Whats your feeling of that
one..over say an ACT?
On Sun, 4 Jun 2000, Brad Bedell wrote:
>
* I ordered my O.S. Giken clutch last Wednesday.
>
> I'm going to
consider my clutch problem "solved"
>
> Wonder what Rob will do for
me, since I have a nice RPS clutch that is still
> in the box.
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Geoff Mohler
> Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 10:43 PM
> To:
xwing
> Cc: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: RPS Carbon/ceramic
disks
>
> TO heck with this..I think im gonna stay with
ACT.
>
> On Sun, 4 Jun 2000, xwing wrote:
>
> > I
have the 6-carbon-puck metal disc with "turbo clutch" pressure plate,
>
> and now
> > can say that it sucks. It slips slips slips on
drag launch, and after
> > being at track twice, making about 5 passes
total, it is G O N E.
> > I am calling RPS Monday, I can't go on like
this, one disc after
> > another slipping. These R&R's cost
$...
> > Jack T.
> >
> > Oskar wrote:
>
>
> > > Who is using the RPS carbon/ceramic puck disk? I'd
like to get some
> > > feedback on this disk. Allegedly these
have been shipped to many 3/S
> > > customers over the past 4
months.
> > >
> > > Oskar
> > > '95 R/T
TT
> > >
> > > ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
> >
> > ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
>
>
> ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
> ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 4 Jun 2000 21:25:47 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: RPS Carbon/ceramic disks
Thanks a lot guys --- I'm finally getting
ready to install my 'new' clutch and
Mueller lightweight pressure plate. The
clutch is of course the now infamous
RPS Turbo Carbon which I bought last
year in the AA group buy. I just
returned it for inspection and I
assume they will return the 6 puck version.
The question now is, are the
problem clutches failing under 500+ HP or
is the problem more pervasive. I
won't have 500 HP until next year and I
use my car for road racing
not drag racing.
Encouraging comments from anybody
???????? Or am I SOL
!!!!
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
> I
have the 6-carbon-puck metal disc with "turbo clutch" pressure plate,
>
and now
> can say that it sucks. It slips slips slips on drag
launch, and after
> being at track twice, making about 5 passes total, it
is G O N E.
> I am calling RPS Monday, I can't go on like this, one disc
after
> another slipping. These R&R's cost $...
> Jack
T.
>
>
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 00:30:53 EDT
From: Topofwrld1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Hi, i have a problem with the clutch, can anyone please help?
In a
message dated 06/04/2000 9:07:05 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Playenfun@aol.com
writes:
<< Hi My name is Christian, I have
a 92 3000GT. I am having a problem
with
the clutch, all of
the sudden it had no pressure, and I am having a hard
timing shifting
into reverse, and even 1st gear now. I checked the clutch
fluid
and it was pretty empty, I added more, but it still the same. It
seems
as if the clutch needs to be re-adjusted or something, does anyone
have any
ideas? Any tips would be greatly appreciated, thank you
>>
If you have clutch fluid on the carpet by the clutch pedal you
have a bad
clutch master cylinder.
The clutch slave cylinder is
located on top of the transmission area. You
can see it if you shine a
light down into that area from between the battery
and the air
cleaner. Below the resonator bottle if you know where that is
(if you
don't have a turbo). If it is leaking you need to replace the slave
cylinder. That is surprisingly cheap to do. I have had to
replace both on
my 92.
You can limp to the dealer if you but in some
fluid but it will just get
worse if there is a bad cylinder.
Dennis
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 4 Jun 2000 21:38:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: RPS Carbon/ceramic disks
Tell us about that pressure
plate please?
Im getting a flywheel from them this
week..
Cost/clamping force..and can I use it with an ACT disc?
On
Sun, 4 Jun 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
> Thanks a lot guys --- I'm finally
getting ready to install my 'new' clutch and
> Mueller lightweight
pressure plate. The clutch is of course the now infamous
> RPS Turbo
Carbon which I bought last year in the AA group buy. I just
>
returned it for inspection and I assume they will return the 6 puck
version.
>
> The question now is, are the problem clutches failing
under 500+ HP or
> is the problem more pervasive. I won't have 500 HP
until next year and I
> use my car for road racing not drag
racing.
>
> Encouraging comments from anybody ????????
Or am I SOL !!!!
>
> Jim Berry
>
=====================================================
>
> > I
have the 6-carbon-puck metal disc with "turbo clutch" pressure plate,
>
> and now
> > can say that it sucks. It slips slips slips on
drag launch, and after
> > being at track twice, making about 5 passes
total, it is G O N E.
> > I am calling RPS Monday, I can't go on like
this, one disc after
> > another slipping. These R&R's cost
$...
> > Jack T.
> >
> >
>
>
>
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 00:43:08 EDT
From: Topofwrld1@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Weird spark plug wire routing
I noticed the dealer put a 180 degree twist
in the set of three rear bank of
spark plug wires and then another 180
degree twist to make them come out
right. For years I have heard that
the wires should not be crossed or that
induced crossfiring can take
place.
So I checked a friends 92 turbo and his are lined up parallel like
I think
they should be. Is there a reason for the two 180 degrees
twists or is my
mechanic totally neurotic. (It takes extra effort to get
them all twisted)
I straightened them out and it took about 60
seconds. I haven't done a test
drive yet.
Thanks for your
replies.
Dennis 92 Stealth R/T
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 04 Jun 2000 23:45:20 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
RPS clutch
The RPS Turbo Clutch/es work well for roadrace, never a
problem for me.
Holds
very well, because you really aren't slipping it
like you do on a drag
launch.
The RPS clutches (and all others for me so
far) just sometimes slip alot
and can
go bad, when you do high
(4000-5000rpm) full throttle launches at
dragstrip, where
clutch must slip
for takeoff but then must OVERCOME the slippage and
GRAB as you
let the
clutch pedal out further.
Jack T.
Jim Berry wrote:
> I'm
installing my new clutch and Mueller lightweight pressure plate.
Clutch
is
> RPS Turbo Carbon bought last year in group buy. I
>
returned it for inspection, assume they'll return 6 puck version. I
> use
my car for road racing not drag.
>
> > I have the RPS
6-carbon-puck metal disc with "turbo clutch" pressure
plate,
> > it
sucks. It slips on drag launch; after
> > being at drags twice,
making about 5 passes, it is G O N E.
> >
Jack
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 4 Jun 2000 21:57:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: RPS clutch
Jack:
We will be road-race, and autox
where the launches are still required at
most
events.
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 04 Jun 2000 22:12:04 PDT
From: "marc augellli" <marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Freon Question?
Hi,
I was hoping
someone can help me, I have a 94 3000gt sl and i was
wondering if my car
takes the r-12 freon or the new r-134 freon? I was at
pep boys today
and i saw the do it your self kits for the r-134 freon has
anybody tried it
and also has anybody converted there cars over to r-134?
Is it an easy
job or hard?
Thanks for any help and if possible if you can email me at
marcsaugelli@hotmail.com.
thanks,
marc
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 07:00:20 EDT
From: Nturavgguy@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Turbos on non turbos?
Does anyone know if they make a supercharger of any
kind for the non turbo
early model 3000GT's? Also anyone ever use an
adjustable suspension from
Ground Control?
Jim
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 07:29:36 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: RPS clutch
I thought it was determined that RPS had solved
all their problems. I went
out and bought an RPS turbo classic clutch
and the Mitsu dealer who put it
in said I would hate the feel of a race
clutch. To my dismay, the clutch
felt no harder to push in than the
stock one and except for it being new, I
felt no appreciable difference in
clamping force. If I slip it on a launch,
it slips and never really
grabs as long as power is applied. Thats with the
9Bs pushing all they
have. In all honesty, this clutch is what let me go
from 13.07 to 12.54
at the track, but the stock one wouldn't grab at 3000
RPM (cause it was
shot).
How good is the twin plate Mueller that
Dynamic Racing sells? They
sell it complete with the bearing and
aluminum flywheel for $2000. Will it
be too hard for a daily
driver? Bumper to Bumper on my trips to Manhattan
on the West Side Hwy
is leg torture!
Sam 95 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
To:
Team3S <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, June 04, 2000 9:52 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: RPS
clutch
>The RPS Turbo Clutch/es work well for roadrace, never a
problem for me.
>Holds
>very well, because you really aren't
slipping it like you do on a drag
>launch.
>The RPS clutches (and
all others for me so far) just sometimes slip alot
>and can
>go bad,
when you do high (4000-5000rpm) full throttle launches at
>dragstrip,
where
>clutch must slip for takeoff but then must OVERCOME the slippage
and
>GRAB as you
>let the clutch pedal out further.
>Jack
T.
>
>Jim Berry wrote:
>
>> I'm installing my new
clutch and Mueller lightweight pressure plate.
>Clutch is
>> RPS
Turbo Carbon bought last year in group buy. I
>> returned it for
inspection, assume they'll return 6 puck version. I
>> use my car for
road racing not drag.
>>
>> > I have the RPS
6-carbon-puck metal disc with "turbo clutch" pressure
>plate,
>>
> it sucks. It slips on drag launch; after
>> > being at
drags twice, making about 5 passes, it is G O N E.
>> >
Jack
>
>
>***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 09:37:28 EDT
From: AABOMB1@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Thanks...
Thanks for your help Joshua and Cody, do you know when they
first introduced
6-speeds?
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 10:09:37 EDT
From: AABOMB1@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Synthetic Oil
>Hi gang, time for my first oil change. Had a quick
question, the previous
>owner always used Mobil1 in the car. I have a
busy schedule and plan on
>going
>to a Valvoline Pit Stop
tomorrow. They have their own synthetic oil and just
>wanted to make sure
it is ok to switch from Mobil1 to Valvoline synthetic.
>Thanks in
advance.
>
>
>Bill in NY
>94' VR-4
No, valvoline
shouldn't be a problem, although I'd probably use Mobil 1 over
valvoline
(I'll explain why in a second), but just make sure that you are
using 10W-30
if you are living in a moderate to high temperature area - if
you happen to
be living in an area where it will be very cold then 5W-30
would probably be
better - I think there is temperature chart in the manual
for which
oil you should use.
The reason I was saying I would use Mobil 1 is
because from all the reports
I've seen, Mobil 1 has a higher viscosity index
than valvoline (i.e. it will
resist viscosity change w/temperature better),
it has a lower pour point
(better resistance to low temperatures), and also
I think it gives off less
sulfate ash which causes engine corrosion. Plus I
know that Mobil 1 doesn't
use polymers in their oil, but I'm not sure about
valvoline.
Another good oil is by Amsoil; I think Amsoil even has a
higher flash point
(point at which oil gives off ignitable vapors) and a
higher viscoity index
than Mobil 1; it supposedly even resists molecular
break down in high
temperature situations better than Mobil1. But from the
feedback I've heard
from so many people I still trust Mobil 1 more any other
brand.
Also, if you plan on taking your car to the race track, you might want
to
consider using Redline.
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 10:14:25 -0400
From: Brian Geisel <brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Synthetic Oil
I remember reading in the manual once not
to use purely synthetic oils.
Has anyone else read that, or cared :) ?
I know a while ago, people were
mixing STP in with their oil and they were
actually throwing pistons and
doing all kinds of nasty things. It
apparently was because it made the oil
too slick.
I really don't have
any feelings or thoughts on this myself, as I don't
have a real good feel for
precicely how oil affects everything (I know
what it does, I just don't know
all the minute details). Anyone have
thoughts or has anyone had trouble
with synthetics?
geis
AABOMB1@aol.com wrote:
> >Hi
gang, time for my first oil change. Had a quick question, the previous
>
>owner always used Mobil1 in the car. I have a busy schedule and plan
on
> >going
> >to a Valvoline Pit Stop tomorrow. They have
their own synthetic oil and just
> >wanted to make sure it is ok to
switch from Mobil1 to Valvoline synthetic.
> >Thanks in
advance.
> >
> >
> >Bill in NY
> >94'
VR-4
>
> No, valvoline shouldn't be a problem, although I'd probably
use Mobil 1 over
> valvoline (I'll explain why in a second), but just make
sure that you are
> using 10W-30 if you are living in a moderate to high
temperature area - if
> you happen to be living in an area where it will
be very cold then 5W-30
> would probably be better - I think there
is temperature chart in the manual
> for which oil you should
use.
>
> The reason I was saying I would use Mobil 1 is because from
all the reports
> I've seen, Mobil 1 has a higher viscosity index than
valvoline (i.e. it will
> resist viscosity change w/temperature better),
it has a lower pour point
> (better resistance to low temperatures), and
also I think it gives off less
> sulfate ash which causes engine
corrosion. Plus I know that Mobil 1 doesn't
> use polymers in their oil,
but I'm not sure about valvoline.
>
> Another good oil is by Amsoil;
I think Amsoil even has a higher flash point
> (point at which oil gives
off ignitable vapors) and a higher viscoity index
> than Mobil 1; it
supposedly even resists molecular break down in high
> temperature
situations better than Mobil1. But from the feedback I've heard
> from so
many people I still trust Mobil 1 more any other brand.
> Also, if you
plan on taking your car to the race track, you might want to
> consider
using Redline.
>
> AA
>
> -------------------
>
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com
<or> aabomb1@aol.com
> Fax:
(707) 982-8817 [In United States]
>
> ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 09:49:22 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Thanks...
1994 model year was the firs year of the 6 forward gear
tranny...
- -Cody
#-----Original Message-----
#From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
#[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of AABOMB1@aol.com
#Sent: Monday,
June 05, 2000 8:37 AM
#To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
#Subject:
Team3S: Thanks...
#
#
#Thanks for your help Joshua and Cody, do you
know when they first
#introduced
#6-speeds?
#
#
#
#AA
#
#-------------------
#E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
#Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
#
#***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
#
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 10:51:13 EDT
From: AABOMB1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:
Synthetic Oil
>I remember reading in the manual once not to use purely
synthetic oils.
>Has anyone else read that, or cared :) ? I know a
while ago, people were
>mixing STP in with their oil and they were
actually throwing pistons and
>doing all kinds of nasty things. It
apparently was because it made the oil
>too slick.
>
>I really
don't have any feelings or thoughts on this myself, as I don't
>have a
real good feel for precicely how oil affects everything (I know
>what it
does, I just don't know all the minute details). Anyone
have
>thoughts or has anyone had trouble with
synthetics?
>
>geis
I believe what this is referring to is
not synthetic oil, but oil additives
(such as Motor Up, zMax, etc..).
Although I haven't personally tried these,
I've heard feedback about the
effects of Motorup and I've been told that it
intially increases
performance, but over time it sticks to your engine and
causes big time
problems - in fact I think one of my friends pulled an engine
once which was
treated with Motor Up and he told me that all the surfaces
inside were
'sticky'. These additives may also cause the problems you were
referring to
about the oil being 'too slick'. Plus, if Formula 1 cars can run
at up
to18,000 rpm for entire races using regular synthetic oil, then it's
good
enough for my car :).
As far as synthetic oils like Mobil 1 are
concerned, they do lubriacte
better, but not to the point where it gets 'too
slick'. In fact, there are
many reasons why synthetic oils offer better
protection than petroleum-based
oils aside from how 'slick' they are. Some
reasons why they are so much
better than petroleum-based oils: synthetic
oils tend to have stronger films
(i.e. the oil takes longer to break down in
high friction areas), also many
synthetic oils don't use polymers while
almost all petroleum-based oils often
have to use polymers to maintain their
viscosity throughout various
temperatures. Also they tend not to oxidize at
high temperatures and they are
more pure - so they leave behind less junk in
your engine (espeically sulfate
ash). And synthetic oils generally take
longer to molecularly break down and
also tend to keep more stable viscosity
levels.
As far as older passenger cars are concerned, I would probably
stick with
petroleum-based oil even though synthetic oils have so many
advantages. The
reason I say this is because old cars were made for
petroleum-based oil and
your safest bet is to always use something you know
is proven to work. But
when we start talking about new sports cars like the
3000GT/Stealth I would
use nothing but synthetics. The only thing I would be
suspicious of is
additives; as a general rule, you should always be
suspicious of additives
and always do research before you use any new
additive.
Anyway, I've talked long enough, hope that
helps.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 10:54:48 EDT
From: AABOMB1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:
Synthetic Oil
Oh and one other thing I forgot to mention, as far as motor
oil is concerned,
one very important thing to know is that you should always
look in your
manual and see what rating they recommend for the oil. There is
always a
rating above the "SAE" certification that consists of two letters
(such as SG
or SJ) and whenever you buy motor oil, the rating of your motor
oil should be
the same as or higher than than what is recommened in your
manual. In other
words, if you manual recommends SG it is ok to use higher
letter such as SJ
and SH, but it is NOT ok to use oils with lower rating
like SA and SC.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 10:59:57 EDT
From: AABOMB1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Thanks...
In a message dated 6/5/2000 10:58:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
overclck@flash.net
writes:
> 1994 model year was the firs year of the 6 forward gear
tranny...
>
> -Cody
I see, thanks again for your
help.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 11:01:26 -0400
From: "John T. Christian" <jczoom@iname.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
94 brakes on a 92?
Hi Chris & Mark,
The answer is
yes. And the results are better, but still not
satisfactory if you do
road racing.
However the most expensive component will be the '94+
wheels. The
other '94 components dust shields, rotors & calipers
will bolt right on.
You didn't say why you were considering the '94
system. If you
intend to do road racing (high performance driving
schools), I'd
strongly suggest the BIG RED Porsche system from Brad
Beddell. The cost
is similar to the '94 upgrade. AND you'll
be able to stop repeatedly
without having to change pads after one or two
sessions.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/4538/secrets.html
Try
that URL to see the Porsche brakes.
AND the Porsche BIG RED calipers will
LOOK REALLY neat peering out thru
your new wheels.
Be of good
cheer
John with the blown head
gasket.
[snip]
Chris Maxwell wrote:
>
> the
brakes from a 94+ turbo, is it a direct replacement or do i
need to switch
some other things?
[snip]
Mark wrote:
>
>
Incidentally has anyone done this? rotors, calipers, and dust shields
> a second gen can be had for about 400-500 bux and I have been
thinking
> about it as a small brake upgrade to my '93 but wondered if
anyone has
> already done this mod and could comment on the
results.
>
> Mark
> '93 R/T TT
>
> At 09:35 PM
6/3/00 -0500, Brad Bedell wrote:
> >With consideration of the Rotors,
calipers, dust shields, and wheels it is a
> >direct
replacement.
> >
> >You will need to upgrade the wheels and
either replace or cut the dust
> >shields to make them fit your
92.
> >
> >
> >Brad
> >Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
>E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
> >
>
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT
12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche brakes & Supra
rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:22:05 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: RPS Carbon/ceramic disks
Sorry about that --- I lied about the
lightweight pressure plate, I meant to
say lightweight flywheel !!!!!
The
following link to Muellers web site does show a billet pressure plate
though.
http://www.muellerfabricators.com/Redhead.htm
Jim Berry
================================================
> Tell us
about that pressure plate please?
>
> Im getting a flywheel from
them this week..
>
> Cost/clamping force..and can I use it with an
ACT disc?
>
> On Sun, 4 Jun 2000, Jim Berry wrote:
>
>
> Thanks a lot guys --- I'm finally getting ready to install my 'new' clutch
and
> > Mueller lightweight pressure plate. The clutch is of course the
now infamous
> > RPS Turbo Carbon which I bought last year in the AA
group buy. I just
> > returned it for inspection and I assume
they will return the 6 puck version.
> >
> > The question now
is, are the problem clutches failing under 500+ HP or
> > is the
problem more pervasive. I won't have 500 HP until next year and I
> >
use my car for road racing not drag racing.
> >
>
> Encouraging comments from anybody ???????? Or am I SOL
!!!!
> >
> >
Jim Berry
> >
=====================================================
> >
> >
> I have the 6-carbon-puck metal disc with "turbo clutch" pressure
plate,
> > > and now
> > > can say that it sucks.
It slips slips slips on drag launch, and after
> > > being at track
twice, making about 5 passes total, it is G O N E.
> > > I am
calling RPS Monday, I can't go on like this, one disc after
> > >
another slipping. These R&R's cost $...
> > > Jack
T.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
>
>
> ***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jun 2000 10:43:17 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 94 brakes on a 92?
>You didn't say why you were
considering the '94 system. If you
>intend to do road racing (high
performance driving schools), I'd
>strongly suggest the BIG RED Porsche
system from Brad Beddell. The cost
>is similar to the '94
upgrade. AND you'll be able to stop repeatedly
>without having
to change pads after one or two sessions.
>
I second John's remarks. By
the time you get done farting around with
changing all the stock parts, you
might as well just go for the Big Reds.
Brad will sell you a conversion kit
that includes calipers, brackets, nuts
and bolts, SS lines and pads. All you
gotta do is add 94+ wheels to clear
the front calipers and stock 94
front rotors and you are in business. You
could probably leave the rear
brakes alone, since they don't do any work
anyway. If you are not going
racing with these brakes, you can save some
money by using stock Porsche
Turbo pads instead of the $200 Pagid pads.
Talk to Brad about it. He's da
brake man!
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/wif Big Reds
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jun 2000 11:11:53 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 94 brakes on a 92?
Actually, the Porsche brakes will clear
the stock 91-93 Mitsubishi wheels.
You can just fit a business card between
the wheel and caliper though. Not
sure what would happen if a
wheel was slightly bent, or the wheel weights
were placed in the wrong
position :-D. Dave Skultety (sp?) had the 17" 93
Mitsubishi
wheels and had no clearance problems when the wheel flexed in
a
corner.
I remember testing the Stealth wheels and they not
fitting.
(I'd like to check again if someone has a stealth in the Austin
Area)
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:43 AM
To: jczoom@iname.com; Mark
Cc: team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 94 brakes on a 92?
>You didn't say why you were
considering the '94 system. If you
>intend to do road racing (high
performance driving schools), I'd
>strongly suggest the BIG RED Porsche
system from Brad Beddell. The cost
>is similar to the '94
upgrade. AND you'll be able to stop repeatedly
>without having
to change pads after one or two sessions.
>
I second John's remarks. By
the time you get done farting around with
changing all the stock parts, you
might as well just go for the Big Reds.
Brad will sell you a conversion kit
that includes calipers, brackets, nuts
and bolts, SS lines and pads. All you
gotta do is add 94+ wheels to clear
the front calipers and stock 94
front rotors and you are in business. You
could probably leave the rear
brakes alone, since they don't do any work
anyway. If you are not going
racing with these brakes, you can save some
money by using stock Porsche
Turbo pads instead of the $200 Pagid pads.
Talk to Brad about it. He's da
brake man!
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/wif Big Reds
***Info: www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #160
*********************