team3s
Friday, June 2
2000
Volume 01 : Number
157
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 1 Jun 2000 20:38:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS clutches for sale
Brad: We need a clutch for road
race/autox.
Is the DF "good" or is the CC "better"?
We'll be
upgrading to lightweight driveshaft, lightweight flywhee, and new
clutch next
week.
On Thu, 1 Jun 2000, Brad Bedell wrote:
> I have two RPS
clutches for sale. One is a dual friction with a carbon and
>
organic disk, the other is a full carbon.
>
> Both pressure plates
and disks are brand new. I installed the carbon
> clutch in
the car about two months ago but have never even started the car
>
> Reason for selling: I ordered a twin disk clutch.
>
> Make me an offer on these clutches.
>
> Brad
> Check
out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/>
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 01 Jun 2000 22:32:28 -0700
From: Rick Beil <
rick.beil@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
New mod questions
I'd first like to say hi to everyone. I've been
reading/researching for
the past 3 months and am buying a 93TT on
Wednesday. This is now my
first post. I've had most of my
questions answered from reading the
variuos message boards and archives but
these are the ones I still have
questions about.
The only performance
mods that I may do are the following: K&N FIPK,
boost controller,
turbo timer.
BOOST CONTROLLER:
1a) If I set the boost controller
to 1 bar (14.5 psi) can I just leave
it there and never change it? Or
is it advisable to set it lower for
regular day to day driving? (I will
not be racing at a track)
1b) Assuming that it is acceptable to run
normally at 14.5 psi; does
this have a detrimentle effect on stock turbos and
the engine in
general? That is approx. a 55% increase over stock
boost.
2) At what boost level or psi do I have to start worrying
about
detonation?
3) If I plan to set the boost at 1 bar and never
change it, could I get
away with a manual boost controller? Again, I
don't plan to race at a
track, and I won't be racing people at lights...
~much~ :)
4a) What does the Blitz Dual Turbo Timer do that the
Apexi AVC-R
doesnt, and vice-versa? In this regard I'm referring to
features that
either has that the other doesnt, OR features that are done
differently.
b) Do the new versions of each of these two timers come with
their own
boost gauge, or do I have to buy one seperately? (I believe
they do,
but want to double check.)
EXHAUST:
Based on my
planned mods (FIPK, BC, TT) do I REALLY need to change the
exhaust? I
like the look of the stock double tips, and don't think
it'll make that much
of a difference with stock turbos. If you feel I
should change the
exhaust, what problems do you think I'd have if I
didn't?
SPARK
PLUGS:
What is the minimum psi boost that I should change the gap to
.034? Is
it 12?
TURBO TIMER:
1) I read someone's post
awhile back that their turbo timer conflicted
with their alarm (something
about the alarm wanting to instantly kill
the engine, thereby defeating the
turbo timer).
I definately am getting an aftermarket alarm (probably a
Clifford) and I
would like to get a turbo timer. Will I run into the
above problem, or
can they be wired NOT to conflict?
2) I've
found a bunch of posts that talk about what a TT does, but not
many that
recommend a brand or features.
Which turbo timer is a good one to buy
and/or what features do I
definately want in a turbo
timer?
Thanks for you anticipated help! After these
questions I think I'll
know most of what I need to know.
Rick
Beil
Victoria, BC CANADA
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 00:50:32 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New mod questions
See below:
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Rick Beil
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 12:32 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: New mod questions
I'd first like to say hi to everyone.
I've been reading/researching for
the past 3 months and am buying a 93TT on
Wednesday. This is now my
first post. I've had most of my
questions answered from reading the
variuos message boards and archives but
these are the ones I still have
questions about.
Welcome...
The
only performance mods that I may do are the following: K&N
FIPK,
boost controller, turbo timer.
BOOST CONTROLLER:
1a) If I
set the boost controller to 1 bar (14.5 psi) can I just leave
it there and
never change it? Or is it advisable to set it lower for
regular day to
day driving? (I will not be racing at a track)
1b) Assuming that it
is acceptable to run normally at 14.5 psi; does
this have a detrimentle
effect on stock turbos and the engine in
general? That is approx. a 55%
increase over stock boost.
This will increase the general wear and tear
on the turbos. To a point that
it is unacceptable? I don't think
anyone has done any long term studies.
2) At what boost level or psi do I
have to start worrying about
detonation?
Around the 14.5 range,
depending on the temperature and general condition of
the car (plugs, fuel
pump/filter, wires etc)
3) If I plan to set the boost at 1 bar and never
change it, could I get
away with a manual boost controller? Again, I
don't plan to race at a
track, and I won't be racing people at lights...
~much~ :)
You can get away with a manual, but your performance will be better
with an
electronic.
4a) What does the Blitz Dual Turbo Timer
do that the Apexi AVC-R
doesnt, and vice-versa? In this regard I'm
referring to features that
either has that the other doesnt, OR features that
are done differently.
This is better left for someone else to answer.
A
turbo timer is a device that keeps the car running for a pre-set time
after
you turn the key off. (to allow the turbos to cool) you will get
no
performance gain out of a turbo timer.
The AVCR is a boost
controller.
www.apexi-usa.com
has some really good
documentation on the unit.
I have had great success
with the EVC IV and AVCR on the VR4 (I've installed
about 10 of
each)
b) Do the new versions of each of these two timers come with
their own
boost gauge, or do I have to buy one seperately? (I believe
they do,
but want to double check.)
The apexi has its own gauge. It
is best to get a separate gage, (at least
until you calibrate the boost
controller)
EXHAUST:
Based on my planned mods (FIPK, BC, TT)
do I REALLY need to change the
exhaust? I like the look of the stock
double tips, and don't think
it'll make that much of a difference with stock
turbos. If you feel I
should change the exhaust, what problems do you
think I'd have if I
didn't?
I agree.. I picked up .4 in the 1/4 with
an aftermarket exhaust over the
stock... you will pick up some power
with an exhaust and downpipe though.
Mostly spool up time.(midrange and low
end power)
SPARK PLUGS:
What is the minimum psi boost that I
should change the gap to .034? Is
it 12?
That sounds about
right.
TURBO TIMER:
1) I read someone's post awhile back that
their turbo timer conflicted
with their alarm (something about the alarm
wanting to instantly kill
the engine, thereby defeating the turbo
timer).
I definately am getting an aftermarket alarm (probably a
Clifford) and I
would like to get a turbo timer. Will I run into the
above problem, or
can they be wired NOT to conflict?
A good stereo
shop knows how to work around this. Find someone who
knows.
2) I've found a bunch of posts that talk about what a TT
does, but not
many that recommend a brand or features.
Which turbo
timer is a good one to buy and/or what features do I
definately want in a
turbo timer?
All turbo timers do pretty much the same thing. Match the
components that
you end up choosing.
Thanks for you anticipated
help! After these questions I think I'll
know most of what I need to
know.
Good luck and thanks for reading all the old posts
first...
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jun 2000 01:51:51 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Sqeaky suspension
I have the Ground Control kit with Eibach
springs and camber plates. We
installed it with no bump stops, per GC's
directions, and lowered it about
1.5 in. in the front. It measures 26 in.
from ground to the inner fender
lip above the front tire.
It has
developed annoying squeaks that occur when turning slowly (like
entering the
garage or just moving the wheel from side to side) or over
slight bumps. It
makes me want to grab a grease gun and hit everything in
sight. I was
wondering if anyone else had experienced this annoyance with
the GC
kit.
I recall hearing that GC had problems with the pillow block at the
top of
the strut mount, and I wonder if squeaking is a symptom.
I've
ordered new bump stops from Mitsubishi, but they are taking forever to
get
here. One came this week, and we have an emergency order in for the
other
one. When they get here, we'll put the bump stops in.
But I don't want to
go to the trouble of putting bump stops in and aligning
the car, then finding
that the squeaks are coming from someplace else. So,
my Mitsu wizards, what
do you think is causing my squeaks? Lack of bump
stops? Pillow block?
Something else?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/as creaky as
me
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 03:49:53 -0700
From: Nick Xiong <
nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FW: Apex R Motorsports?
I've had nothing but positive experiences
w/them. the contact person the
mk4 crew has always been Kwan.
I've never dealt w/Indra. I've ordered
exhaust downpipe, gauges, etc
from them. my stufff never came damaged
(like some other shops).
not only that but they have a TOLL-FREE # ;-)
good luck!
On
Wed, 31 May 2000 19:02:26 -0700
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com
writes:
> Hello all,
> > Has anyone used Apex R Motorsports?
Their web site is
>
http://www.apexvr4.com/ .
> They say
they are focused on the VR-4/Stealth Market.
> > I'm looking to
purchase a Greddy Profec A and Turbo Timer and so far
> they have> the
best price. I'm curious though, their site lists a
Greddy Turbo
>
Timer with> wiring harness ... no other site (including Greddy's) lists
a
wiring
> harness> specifically for the VR-4... is this something I
should worry
about?
> > So, I need to know, are they fast? and do
they deliver what they
> promise?> and Finally, which wiring harness
should I get for my VR-4 if
I buy
> a greddy> turbo timer?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Nissa
> 95 VR-4
> New water pump,
new hood latch and new motor mount... what a week!
>
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jun 2000 03:01:32 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Early Father's Day present
I have been remiss.
My buddy
Jeff Lacina (slow 'ol farmer dude from Iowa) said my account of
our
Marshalltown testing three weeks ago should have included the exploits
of my
daughter, Cathy. So, here it is, three weeks late but in plenty of
time for
Father's Day.
Jeff (5.8 Mustang) is an instructor with BMWCC, PCA and the
Shelby club,
and he and another BMWCC instructor, Dave Johnson (M3) taught
Cathy that day.
On May 10, a bunch of us from Cedar Rapids took off on a
Wednesday
afternoon and rented the Marshalltown, Iowa go-kart track, a 0.6
mile, 13
turn, 30 ft wide, paved track. I took my Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4, and
my
daughter ran her Contour.
Her first exposure to open tracking was
last year, when I took her to
Topeka, where we both ran a two-day Porsche
club drivers school at
Heartland Park. The Contour was not the fastest car on
the track at Topeka,
but she managed to get it sideways at least once while I
was watching. I
always felt bad that I could not afford to send both my kids
to Bondurant
for the teenage drivers school, so I took both of them to
drivers schools
around here. Last fall, I took my son Rob to Road America for
a BMW drivers
school.
But I digress.
My first view of Cathy at
Marshalltown was when her blue Contour appeared
in my mirrors, being driven
by instructor Dave Johnson. He had entered the
track immediately behind me at
turn two, and hung in my mirrors long enough
to shake me up.
We would
run 10-15 laps at a time, and pull off to let the cars cool down.
Cathy and I
took turns running and timing each other, so I got to watch
almost all her
laps. She ran very consistent times, nearly always within a
half-second of
each other, and gradually coming down, tenth by tenth. By
the end of the day,
she was running 3-4 seconds faster than when she started.
Jeff and Dave
rode with her and kibitzed from the sidelines, and it became
obvious that she
was very smooth and very much in control. No wild
gyrations or sudden
movements.
So I let her drive my car.
Gulp.
She managed
the transition from her 2 hp Contour to my 325 hp VR4 very
nicely, picking up
speed gradually, until she was lapping within three
seconds of my times, and
impressing the beejeezus out of the instructors.
She never once put the car
wrong, and maintained smooth, consistent lines.
I was never worried.
Really.
Problem was, I couldn't get her OUT of the car. I finally had to
wave her
in after 16 laps, and she pleaded for more, so I let her run another
10
laps. In all, she probably put 40 or 50 laps on my car.
Needless
to say, I was the Proud Papa for quite a while (still am).
For all you
daddies out there who are planning to take your **SONS** open
track racing, I
suggest that you don't overlook your daughters. They might
surprise you with
their ability and enthusiasm. Mine sure did. Well, no, I
guess she didn't
surprise me after all. I kinda expected it from her.
Rich/94 Mitsubishi
3000GT VR4/proud papa
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 09:54:11 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sqeaky suspension
> I have the Ground Control kit with Eibach
springs and camber plates.
> It has developed annoying squeaks that occur
when turning slowly
I can't say how much the camber plates add squeeking
but the cause could be
the coil over that touches the the shock housing. The
rear one came with
O-rings but there isn't enough space at the front one. Try
to find something
that works there (one used simply electrical
tape).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jun 2000 11:22:16 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Uprated fuel pump - Should I bother?
I'm getting the last of the
parts for my 60k service and I was wondering
if there's any point in uprating
the fuel pump? The boost is at 1bar
(14.5psi) so I figure it would be no harm
to make the fuel supply work a
little better too.
If it's worth doing
can anyone give me a part number or supplier for a
suggested
replacement?
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import
VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jun 2000 12:52:45 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AMS 13G turbo upgrade
Does anyone have experience of this upgrade
for the VR4? I am going to
do this mid-july so need some advice on the best
compromise of
cost/quality I can get. I get will whacked with huge import
duties so
you can basically add 50% to the price in the US.
The AMS
TD04L-13G seems to be the best price but is the greddy/hks name
worth the
extra? Also I will be changing oil lines and getting a higher
flow fuel pump.
Is this enough to compliment this upgrade or do I need
some other mods i.e.
injectors or whatever. I would rather no get into
the whole adjustable fuel
system crap as I have no technical background
at this level and Ireland is
shit for mod. shops so there would be
little or no help on that front so
basically the fuel mods will need to
be simple and basic.
Is this a
viable scenario or should I just leave well enough
alone?
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import
VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jun 2000 08:58:38 EDT
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Like your input: Hum while decelerating
Hi
folks!
I just noticed that, when I decelerate (i.e. hit the
brakes), I hear a
muffled humming coming from the wheel well area.
It's a little difficult to
describe, but it sounds like I have a little
Homer Simpson in the wheel
wells saying, "Mmmmm" at a low, damped frequency
(like maybe a 200Hz
"mmmm"). :)
Does anyone know what this might
be?
Thank you for your time and
assistance!
Regards,
Dennis
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 08:07:45 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPS
saga continues
Yesterday I had a conversation with Rob Smith of RPS
regarding the Turbo
Carbon clutch I bought as part of the group purchase last
fall. About two
months ago I returned my yet unused disk to RPS for
inspection. I wanted
them to verify their claim that the disk sent to
me was a good disk. In
return they sent me a six puck all carbon
disk. Hmm... quite a bit
different than what I had initially
ordered.
The RPS sales staff I spoke to yesterday assured me that both
this new disk,
and the pressure plate received last fall were good. I
insisted on talking
with Rob Smith. This was a good move. Rob
told me of a problem with the
six puck disk they had just sent me on
5/10/2000. When speaking about the
pressure plate he told me they had
recently discovered that the 3000GT
pressure plates were coming in short on
clamping power, by about 600 lbs.
So now the entire clutch is going back
to RPS. The pressure plate will need
to be shimmed to achieve the
clamping power at stock specs, and the disk
exchanged for a carbon/ceramic
combination setup.
I am sharing this with you all because I think
everyone deserves to know
what is going on. Unfortunately the sales
staff at RPS appears to be
uninformed and will not let on that there is a
potential problem. Rob
assures me that these are not prototypes, but
production ready components.
The positive aspect of this story is that in
my case RPS is standing by
their product, offering exchange or refund.
In my opinion the most
disheartening thing is that the sales staff (Gary) is
either uninformed, or
performing cover up.
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 08:10:17 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPS
Carbon/ceramic disks
Who is using the RPS carbon/ceramic puck disk?
I'd like to get some
feedback on this disk. Allegedly these have been
shipped to many 3/S
customers over the past 4 months.
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jun 2000 14:29:15 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Aftermarket exhaust with std look
Is there an aftermarket exhaust
system that has similar tailpipes to the
std one? I like the quad pipe look
and dislike the single sided
exhausts.
I read somewhere about an HKS D2 or
something that looked like standard
but I couldn't see from the pic if it was
2 sided or not.
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese
Import VR4
http://fly/to/mr2.ie***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jun 2000 14:41:13 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone From Japan on this list?
Is there anyone in Japan on this
list as I have a Japanese Import VR4
and have a couple of specific questions
relating to this model to be
sure I get compatible
parts.
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import
VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 10:12:01 EDT
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Re: [Fwd:
Team3S: FW: Apex R Motorsports?]
In a message dated 6/1/2000
10:03:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ken.c.stanton@usa.net
writes:
<< I would avoid them at all costs - I bought a clutch, it
took them
forever to get the order together, then trying to get it hear
was a
nightmare. They charged me $40 shipping then and when I
called them to
get it resolved they never did - I ended up challenging
the charge to my
Visa... >>
Is this APEX R in
Arizona? I've heard TONS of horror stories about that
place. I
actually had the chance to go out there and visit them once as
well. I
looked over their "times board" which they keep track of their
customer's
ETs/MPHs. Was hilarious. I asked about the owners Talon which at
the time had gone low 13s with *TONS* of money into it (20G turbos, FMIC,
PMS, etc..) I asked him about it and he said yep...those cars take a lot of
money to make fast. He asked what I had and I (at the time) had a
Galant VR4
running 13.0 with under $1000 into and the stock cat-back on
it. He
basically called me a liar to my face. Was a fun
trip.
Josh
'91 Galant VR4 (11.91@116 shakedown runs)
'90 Eclipse
GSX
'92 Talon TSI AWD
'92 3000GT VR4 (SOLD!!!)
'91 Mirage (Getting 4G63
transplant shortly)
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 16:27:19 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aftermarket exhaust with std look
> I read somewhere about an
HKS D2 or something that looked like standard
> but I couldn't see from
the pic if it was 2 sided or not.
Thee HKS is available with two or four
tips.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 16:18:39 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Uprated fuel pump - Should I bother?
> if there's any point in
uprating the fuel pump? The boost is at 1bar
> (14.5psi) so I figure it
would be no harm to make the fuel supply work a
> little better
too.
It for sure doesn't harm you but it also doesn't help you
.
> If it's worth doing can anyone give me a part number or supplier
for a
> suggested replacement?
They are costly and the cheapest
(Walbro) starts at $115 and the things go
up to $450 depending on brand or
name. It is not the easiest job and can be
done at any time and is not deeded
to be done with the 60k maintenance.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
Switzerland
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 11:42:40 -0400
From: Lloyd Wihl <
lloyd@cae.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch
disengagement problem rears its ugly head again!
My stock clutch and
transmission were both replaced 20K miles ago. For the
past few months, I
developed trouble shifting into reverse, and the problem
was correctly
diagnosed as the clutch not fully disengaging. Adjusting the
clutch
pedal, replacing the slave cylinder, and bleeding the hydraulic line
did not
help. So I recently went ahead and replaced the pressure plate,
throwout
bearing, and disk (all stock components). The shifting became
butter smooth
once again.
I looked at the old parts. The clutch disk and bearing were
fine, but the
fingers of the pressure plate showed very noticeable wear where
they contact
the bearing. This wear was not even - it was deeper on one side
than the
other. What might this indicate? I don't think my flywheel is
warped,
because I get no vibration at all in the car when shifting. I was
also
surprised by the amount of wear after 20K miles. I would have thought
that
the bearing spins up to speed quickly, causing very little relative
motion
between its surface and the pressure plate fingers, and therefore
negligible
wear.
Now, after just a few weeks, I am again getting
problems. Reverse is still
very smooth. But that slight thud from the
drivetrain when engaging first
from a stop with the clutch pedal to the floor
has returned. (It had gone
away after the clutch replacement.) I think this
means the clutch is not
fully disengaging again. Also, when the engine
compartment gets hot (e.g. on
hot days when caught in traffic) I occasionally
feel pulsation in the pedal
(but not the car) as my foot travels upward. This
scares me, because my old
clutch did that one year after its installation,
and one year later reverse
became very difficult to engage.
Can anyone
offer some clues as to what is going on here?
Lloyd Wihl
93
RT/TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 09:15:09 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Sqeaky suspension
Rich
Well it's about time ---- I've been
trying for about 6 months to get someone
else to check into this problem and
complain to GC. I think you'll find that the
needle bearing between the
pillow block and the top of the spring has a scored
race. I talked to Tony at
GC on several occasions and even got a modified part.
The modified part had
scoring with only 50 miles of city driving.
If you look at the stock bearing
and the GC bearing you'll see why the problem
exists ---- [ small
bearing + soft race + heavy car ] = problem
I have pictures of the damaged
race which I can send you if you wish, in addition
I can give you some
insight into changing the bearing and installing the
bump
stops.
Jim
Berry
=============================================================
>
I have the Ground Control kit with Eibach springs and camber plates>
> It has developed annoying squeaks that occur when turning slowly
(like
> entering the garage or just moving the wheel from side to side) or
over
> slight bumps. It makes me want to grab a grease gun and hit
everything in
> sight. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this
annoyance with
> the GC kit.
>
> I recall hearing that GC had
problems with the pillow block at the top of
> the strut mount, and I
wonder if squeaking is a symptom.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jun 2000 11:26:52 -0500
From: Jim Wiseman <
jim.wiseman@wcom.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: AMS 13G turbo upgrade
I would absolutely replace the oil lines. I
had to replace both turbos due
to oil starvation because the previous owners
just shut the car off without
allowing the engine to idle to cool the turbos.
As a result, oil coked up
the oil feed lines (they have a fairly small inside
diameter) thus starving
the turbos of oil.
Also, even if they look
clean at the ends, if there is any buildup inside
the lines where you can't
see it and it breaks off later it will clog the
orifice that feeds the
turbo.
Lastly, virtually every turbo rebuilder I talked with while
replacing my
turbos said proof of oil line replacement would be necessary if
any warranty
work was necessary. They are fairly inexpensive and should be
part of any
turbo replacement/repair.
Jim
'92 TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of R.G.
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 9:25 AM
To: gto
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AMS 13G turbo upgrade
Gordon,
The 13g are really too
small for providing a much higher performance. I'd go
to 15g immediatly or
somehing similar but of course they are pricey. If you
really want to go to
13g let me know before you place the order.
> The AMS TD04L-13G seems
to be the best price but is the greddy/hks name
> worth the
extra?
No absolutely not.
> Also I will be changing oil lines
and getting a higher
> flow fuel pump.
Eh, why do you want to
change the oil lines ? Higher flow fuel pump goes
along with the full fuel
upgrade (injectors, controller)
> Is this enough to compliment this
upgrade or do I need
> some other mods i.e. injectors or
whatever.
No if you stay below 1.1 bar of boost.
> I would
rather no get into the whole adjustable fuel system crap
> as I have no
technical background at this level and Ireland is shit for
mod.
Well,
"crap" ??? Why do you want to change the turbos then ? It is a crappy
work
for sure !!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jun 2000 12:38:11 -0400
From: Brian Geisel <
brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AMS 13G turbo upgrade
Oil lines, eh? I've got 90k mi on
my '94 VR-4. Do you think I should
do that just as a simple
precautionary measure... Hmmm, of course
if my turbos do go that's just
another reason to replace them with
larger ones :)
geis
'94
VR-4
Jim Wiseman wrote:
> I would absolutely replace the oil
lines. I had to replace both turbos due
> to oil starvation because the
previous owners just shut the car off without
> allowing the engine to
idle to cool the turbos. As a result, oil coked up
> the oil feed lines
(they have a fairly small inside diameter) thus starving
> the turbos of
oil.
>
> Also, even if they look clean at the ends, if there is any
buildup inside
> the lines where you can't see it and it breaks off later
it will clog the
> orifice that feeds the turbo.
>
> Lastly,
virtually every turbo rebuilder I talked with while replacing my
> turbos
said proof of oil line replacement would be necessary if any warranty
>
work was necessary. They are fairly inexpensive and should be part of
any
> turbo replacement/repair.
>
> Jim
> '92
TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of R.G.
> Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 9:25 AM
> To:
gto
> Subject: Re: Team3S: AMS 13G turbo upgrade
>
>
Gordon,
>
> The 13g are really too small for providing a much higher
performance. I'd go
> to 15g immediatly or somehing similar but of course
they are pricey. If you
> really want to go to 13g let me know before you
place the order.
>
> > The AMS TD04L-13G seems to be the best
price but is the greddy/hks name
> > worth the extra?
>
>
No absolutely not.
>
> > Also I will be changing oil lines and
getting a higher
> > flow fuel pump.
>
> Eh, why do you
want to change the oil lines ? Higher flow fuel pump goes
> along with the
full fuel upgrade (injectors, controller)
>
> > Is this enough to
compliment this upgrade or do I need
> > some other mods i.e. injectors
or whatever.
>
> No if you stay below 1.1 bar of
boost.
>
> > I would rather no get into the whole adjustable fuel
system crap
> > as I have no technical background at this level and
Ireland is shit for
> mod.
>
> Well, "crap" ??? Why do you
want to change the turbos then ? It is a crappy
> work for sure
!!
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 11:13:05 -0700
From:
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.comSubject:
Team3S: Anyone using the HKS EVC IV?
Is anyone out there running the HKS
EVC IV on their TT or VR-4? Likes, dislikes?
Are there any good comparisons
between that and the Greddy Profec A?
Thanks!
Anissa
Mohler
Network Appliance - Serving Data by Design
http://www.netapp.com/-
------------------------------------
"Bubbles larger than 0.05 mm are able to
resist."
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jun 2000 12:47:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT... INTERESTING UPDATE
This is
interesting.. I got the exhaust done and now I can feel more power
, but not
ALOT more power. That seemed to be expected from what everyone
told me. I did
put my aquerium bleeder valve back on. First, I connected
it to the bottom
hose on the selanoid like at
(
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm).
Except,
that my bleeder valve happens wot work differently. It uses the side
port
as the port that has had air bleed off.. I dont understand why..
Anyways, the wierdness is that when I put it there, it doesnt do
anything,
(wont restrict OR let the boost go higher.. no matter the setting).
If I
disconnect that hose completely, it only goes up to .6bar or so. If i
put
the boost controller right off of the Y pipe (on the hose that faces
the
passenger compartment, i get crazy boost spike.. But i have been able
to
control it SLIGHTLY..
My thinking is that the last owner of the car
may have screwed up the
vacume hoses so that when I disconnect the blue hoses
in the URL above,
it only lets one turbo spool up extra... maybe each one of
the hoses in
that picture is for one turbo.. is tyhat possible?
Anyways, I am going to search for a REAL boost controller and see if I
can
make it work.. but if anyone on this list lives in the bay area and
has
one I could test with, i would appreciate it ... Thanks alot!
On
Wed, 31 May 2000, Curt Gendron wrote:
> That boost level is what you
would see, if no air was bleed off to the lines
> to the wastegate
actuators and the stock boost solenoid wasn't bleeding off
> air.
You probably have the tap to measure boost with the turbo timer
>
correctly installed. If you stock boost solenoid is still hooked up with
> vacum lines, it must not be working. Check the wire
connectors.
>
> Do you still have that bleeder valve hooked
up?? It should be hooked up
> like this:
>
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
That little blue hose in the top pics is connected to the brass bleeder
>
valve and the other end of it is hooked into the stock solenoid. If you
> want to test your boost, pull this bottom hose out of the
solenoid. If you
> get a lot of boost, (ie. over 17psi), then your
stock solenoid may be the
> problem. Just don't leave this hose
disconnected, because you'll hit major
> fuel cut and your car will
detonate over time.
>
> Does that make sense??
>
>
Curt
>
http://www.mn3s.org>
>
>
> >From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
>
>To:
stealth@starnet.net>
>CC:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
stealth@stls.verio.net>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
> >Date: Wed, 31 May
2000 08:49:30 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Interesting.. I have a Blitz
Dual Turbo timer.. which is a digital boost
> >guage and turbo timer.
When I put it into each gear and floor it, the max
> >boost I hit is
about .45-.48 bar. I know the car has the stock boost
> >selanoid too..
Is it possible that the boost controller is actually only
> >measuring
boost for one turbo somehow? Maybe i misplaced the line? (I
> >doubt
it, it seemed pretty easy), but possible.. Because even with this
>
>low boost, Ive raced Camero SS's and only lost by 1-2 car lengths..
which
> >leads me to believe I have the right amount of power..
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
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>
> ***Info:
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>
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #157
*********************