team3s
Wednesday, May 31
2000
Volume 01 : Number
154
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 08:47:48 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Porting Heads
M;y heads have been done by a BMW and Audi expert
who did the Alpina BMW
Turbos and RS2 Audi Porsches. He found sever edges
that could be removed and
the especially the exhaust side was restrictive at
the outlet port. When
removing the heads one can see the carbon where the
gasket is too large.
Even more the exhaust manifold port are smaller (!!!)
than the heads outlet
ports and causes another turbulence and backpressure
that is not wanted. He
worked a lot on the exhaust side and made them perfect
(not that shiny) to
the gasket size. I reworked the exhaust manifolds so they
have no
restrictions from the cast as well as the port flange is now on
30-45° angle
for less resistance and good increase in velocity.
BTW,
when working on the outlet, the guy showed me the valve guide that was
very
short for an exhaust side. With having the outlet ported, the valvce
stems
are more exposed to the heat and a longer valve guide would have been
nice.
Additionally the manual speaks of a tolerance between ex valve stem
and valve
guide of 0.15mm !!! This is definitely too much and on mine we
measured
0.12mm with the new valves. I therefore decided to let him made new
valve
guides for the exhaust and we got about 0.04mm.As said, work was
perfect and
tomorrow the heads will go in :-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 00:25:20 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Porting Heads
Part of the reason for the "loose" tolerance is the fact
that the material
expands a LOT with the extremes of heat. I hope that
0.04mm (which is VERY
tight BTW) is not too little to account for the
expansion of the head, the
guide and the valve stem.
I have seen
valves sieze or wear prematurely with high tolerances than that.
If too tight
but still working it can rob HP or worse, be too slow to close
and make
contact with a piston crown.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of R.G.
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 11:48 PM
> To: 3000GT
News Group
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Porting Heads
>
>
>
M;y heads have been done by a BMW and Audi expert who did the Alpina BMW
>
Turbos and RS2 Audi Porsches. He found sever edges that could be
> removed
and
> the especially the exhaust side was restrictive at the outlet port.
When
> removing the heads one can see the carbon where the gasket is too
large.
> Even more the exhaust manifold port are smaller (!!!) than
the
> heads outlet
> ports and causes another turbulence and
backpressure that is not
> wanted. He
> worked a lot on the exhaust
side and made them perfect (not that shiny) to
> the gasket size. I
reworked the exhaust manifolds so they have no
> restrictions from the
cast as well as the port flange is now on
> 30-45° angle
> for less
resistance and good increase in velocity.
>
> BTW, when working on
the outlet, the guy showed me the valve
> guide that was
> very
short for an exhaust side. With having the outlet ported, the valvce
>
stems are more exposed to the heat and a longer valve guide would
> have
been
> nice. Additionally the manual speaks of a tolerance between ex
valve stem
> and valve guide of 0.15mm !!! This is definitely too much and
on mine we
> measured 0.12mm with the new valves. I therefore decided to
let
> him made new
> valve guides for the exhaust and we got about
0.04mm.As said, work was
> perfect and tomorrow the heads will go in
:-)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 11:07:10 +0200
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Apexi avc-r
Yo
>>I need help
with my AVC-R. I cant get it set up right. Why don't the RPM's
>>read
the same numbers as my tach i.e. 3000 rpm's reads 500.
Because......you
PROBABLY hooked the "purple" vire to the INJECTOR ECU wire,
but choose 6
Cylinder car
(as if you were running the Purple on the RPM wire).
In
that case, you're supposed to have a "1" cylinder engine
The fact that
6x500 = 3000 is a big clue
>> I just don't get it.
Tell me
how it's installed, would help
>> I have not been able to get it to
"learn" anything.
According to the manual, the unit is NOT learning
really well when hooked to
the INJECTOR signal
>> Can someone
please explain some of it's functions the manual is no
help.
Agree.....my 300ZXTT fellows definitely helped me on this
one.
>> What does F/B do
Feedback....preventing overboosting
in higher hears (rings a bell ???)
>>start duty do.
Start
with a high number, like 75% (hey, be warned, I have NO experience of
this
stuff on the 3S
>> Can any one offer me any good setup programs
that are working good for
them.
Sorry, I
cannot
>>My car does fine in first gear it boosts to 1.0kg/cm2
but in second
>>gear it jumps to 1.13 kg/cm2 and in third it goes to
1.18 kg/cm2. I can
get
>>stable boost it keeps over
boosting.
Yup, that's what the Feedback is for..and....have you
entered the values in
the "gear judge" as well
???
Henri
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:18:02 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Warning light - what is it please?
I was giving the car some
stick on hard setting into a bend today when I
noticed a warning light flash.
It only did it on hard acceleration
through bends and only briefly.
I
assumed it was the radiator light but there seems to be enough coolant
and
there also seems to be another warning light that looks more like a
radiator
light. My manual is in Japanese so I have no idea what it is.
I will give
a list of the lights in case it's different on non-japanese
models.
On the
left from the top:
door open
oil light
check
engine
Tour/Sport
On the right from the top:
seat belt
The light
in question
SRS
The other radiator looking light.
If anyone could
let me know what if is I'd be grateful and if it's not
the radiator light
then please let me know where to fill the offending
liquid.
Thanks in
advance
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:22:39 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turning down the Boost
It turns out that my intermittent power
loss on hard acceleration is due
to the fact that the boost in the car is
turned up to 1bar (14.5psi) and
the fuel is not adjusted to match (I think it
was and the adjustment
tool was removed before export) so the car is cutting
fuel for a second
to compensate.
My question is this: How the hell do
I turn down the boost or up the
fuel? (preferably down the boost).
I
have no idea how he's increased it although there is an HKS boost
gauge int
he car and a small HKS device at the rear of the engin
compartment which I
thought was just to feed the gauge. Where should I
look in this car for the
most obvious increase place?
My MR2 was just sooooo much easier to figure
out :-)
This thing just has too much engine in
there.
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import
VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 11:39:00 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Warning light - what is it please?
Gordon, the radiator light is
combined with the washer fluid tank. Depending
o nthe region you goit the car
from it also has a front tank for the
headlight washers and a rear tank. All
sensors are connected to the same
signal. One of them is on a lower fluid
level :)
Roger
93'3000GT
> I assumed it was the radiator
light but there seems to be enough coolant
> and there also seems to be
another warning light that looks more like a
> radiator light. My manual
is in Japanese so I have no idea what it is.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 11:55:15 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turning down the Boost
Well, this is really the first time I hear
such an opposite wuestion :))
> It turns out that my intermittent
power loss on hard acceleration is due
> to the fact that the boost in the
car is turned up to 1bar (14.5psi) and
> the fuel is not adjusted to match
(I think it was and the adjustment
> tool was removed before export) so
the car is cutting fuel for a second
> to compensate.
If you REALLY
are experiencing fuel cut at 1 bar then you do have another
problem for sure
! And fuel cut in our cars mean that there is an invisible
passenger that
draws the handbrake and your head is almost slamming onto the
wheel !!! I'm
not sure if this is fuel cut what you get. If so, you have to
check other
things for sure !
> My question is this: How the hell do I turn down
the boost or up the
> fuel? (preferably down the boost).
Nothing
easier than this :) Look below :
> I have no idea how he's increased
it although there is an HKS boost
> gauge int he car and a small HKS
device at the rear of the engin
> compartment which I thought was just to
feed the gauge. Where should I
> look in this car for the most obvious
increase place?
Well it is possible that you have an electronic boost
meter but I can't
remember the HKS is such a unit.
> My MR2 was
just sooooo much easier to figure out :-)
> This thing just has too much
engine in there.
Oh yes, but working on an MR2 is even less funny or do
you cut the rear
fender to get to the engine, LOL.
Ok, for turning
boost down firstly go to my homepage and check out the
"Turbo basics" page.
It shows you the way our system works and where the
things like boost gauge,
boost controller or bleeder valve are installed.
Then, on your car, locate
the black y-pipe ellbow that leads into the TB. At
the ellbow is a hose
connected. This hose must lead directly to a 4-way
connector close the intake
of the rear turbo. One hose at this connector
then leads up to the most right
solenoid. The other nipple of this solenoid
msut lead to the rubber intake
before the rear turbo. Another hose at the
connector leads directly to the
rear wastegate actuator and the last line
goes to the hardline at the rear
head that finally leads to the front
wastegate actuator. Anything in this
path that is not described has been
installed later and should be removed to
make the car stock.
The bosot gauge should be hooked up at the intake
plenum after the TB. There
are two hoses commign out, at the rear for the
fuel pressure solenoid and at
the front for the bypass valve. You can T into
one of these lines.
I like to stress this again, if yo umeasure 1 bar of
boost i nthe intake and
you are experiencing fuel cut then there is too much
pinging in your car and
I'd say to inspect a lot different things like
compression, ignition wires,
fuel filter, etc.
Hope this
helps
Roger
93'3000GT TT
Switzerland
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 06:33:36 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: HKS Super Mega
Flow 4 Sale
I'm selling my "Top of the Line" HKS Duel Super Mega
Flow Intake.
Mine has been Fully Chromed (an expensive option) and I have
both
(2) Brand New Green Mushroom Intakes for it still in the
package.
Like new - $235.00 with shipping.
Please, Email me direct
at
aso8@aol.comArty 91
VR-4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 08:22:13 -0400
From: "Scotty" <
omnitech@fast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Warning light - what is it please?
Sounds like you window washer
fluid level light.
I had the same thing happen.
Scotty
92 RT
TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Tyrrell" <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
To:
"3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 5:18 AM
Subject: Team3S: Warning light - what is it
please?
> I was giving the car some stick on hard setting into a
bend today when I
> noticed a warning light flash. It only did it on hard
acceleration
> through bends and only briefly.
>
> I assumed
it was the radiator light but there seems to be enough coolant
> and there
also seems to be another warning light that looks more like a
> radiator
light. My manual is in Japanese so I have no idea what it is.
>
> I
will give a list of the lights in case it's different on non-japanese
>
models.
> On the left from the top:
> door open
> oil
light
> check engine
> Tour/Sport
>
> On the right from
the top:
> seat belt
> The light in question
> SRS
> The
other radiator looking light.
>
> If anyone could let me know what
if is I'd be grateful and if it's not
> the radiator light then please let
me know where to fill the offending
> liquid.
>
> Thanks in
advance
> Gordon
> Dublin, Ireland
> 1993 Japanese Import
VR4
>
http://fly.to/mr2.ie>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 05:50:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
In my 93 VR-4, its active exhaust has been
stuck in the shut position
since I bought the car. Also, the car has only
been able to get .5bar of
boost no matter what you do (even disconnecting the
selanoids). Through my
research and desperate searching to answer this
question, I have concluded
that the closure of the exhaust must be limiting
the boost level because
the turbo cant spool up enough. I was about to order
a Borla exhaust when
a friend of mine who works at a muffler shop said he
could do a custom
exhaust for much cheaper. Here's what he offered: a custom
TP that fits
where the cat is so I can pass smog then put the TP in, full 3"
pipe from
the TP back to a flowmaster muffler that has the exact same style
that our
stock mufflers are.. It has an outlet on both sides. Then a 2.5"
pipe from
the back of the muffler to dual dips. The tips are $85 for each set
and
look an AWFULL lot like stock borla tips (not their round ones, but
the
square ones they have). He offered all of this to me for $200, so I
took
the deal. My question is, other than being obscenely loud (which I will
be
trying to correct with a high flow cat instead of a TP), should this
solve
my boost problem?
Also, how much does a TP help on a car thats
basically stock?
Thanks
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:22:10 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Re: Flowmaster
on a TT...
Matt, you'll be surprised how mellow our cars sound without
ANY mufflers at
all.
Our turbos muffle the sound so well that with no
mufflers - its not even as
loud as a Mustang with a flowmaster.
Arty 91
VR-4
<< Subj: Flowmaster on a
TT...
Date: 5/31/00 5:45:03 AM Pacific Daylight
Time
From:
diranged@south-park.cc (Matt
Wise)
Reply-to:
stealth@starnet.net To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
stealth@stls.verio.net Here's
what he offered: a custom TP that fits
where the cat is so I can pass
smog then put the TP in, full 3" pipe from
the TP back to a flowmaster
muffler that has the exact same style that our
stock mufflers are.. It
has an outlet on both sides. Then a 2.5" pipe from
the back of the
muffler to dual dips. The tips are $85 for each set and
look an AWFULL
lot like stock borla tips (not their round ones, but the
square ones
they have). He offered all of this to me for $200, so I took
the deal.
My question is, other than being obscenely loud
>>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 06:37:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Flowmaster on a TT...
Really? Cool.. I want it to sound
NICE, not super loud. Thats promising
news.. How about without cats.. are
they as loud as eclipse's w/o cats?
On Wed, 31 May 2000
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
> Matt, you'll be
surprised how mellow our cars sound without ANY mufflers at
>
all.
> Our turbos muffle the sound so well that with no mufflers - its not
even as
> loud as a Mustang with a flowmaster.
> Arty 91
VR-4
>
> << Subj: Flowmaster on a
TT...
> Date: 5/31/00 5:45:03 AM Pacific Daylight
Time
> From:
diranged@south-park.cc (Matt
Wise)
> Reply-to:
stealth@starnet.net>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
stealth@stls.verio.net>
> Here's what he offered: a custom TP that fits
> where
the cat is so I can pass smog then put the TP in, full 3" pipe
from
> the TP back to a flowmaster muffler that has the exact same
style that our
> stock mufflers are.. It has an outlet on both
sides. Then a 2.5" pipe from
> the back of the muffler to dual dips.
The tips are $85 for each set and
> look an AWFULL lot like stock
borla tips (not their round ones, but the
> square ones they have).
He offered all of this to me for $200, so I took
> the deal. My
question is, other than being obscenely loud
>
>>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:07:54 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Warning light - what is it please?
Go to:
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/Images_Gto_Man_dash.gifThis
will show you what each of the lights mean. The two most common lights
for fluid are the radiator and windshield washer fluid. Many people
get the
lights mixed up. The radiator light is very sensitive, so make
sure you
have the radiator tank and overflow tank filled up to
specs.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
>To:
3000gt <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: Warning light - what is it please?
>Date: Wed, 31 May 2000
10:18:02 +0100
>
>I was giving the car some stick on hard setting
into a bend today when I
>noticed a warning light flash. It only did it on
hard acceleration
>through bends and only briefly.
>
>I
assumed it was the radiator light but there seems to be enough
coolant
>and there also seems to be another warning light that looks more
like a
>radiator light. My manual is in Japanese so I have no idea what it
is.
>
>I will give a list of the lights in case it's different on
non-japanese
>models.
>On the left from the top:
>door
open
>oil light
>check engine
>Tour/Sport
>
>On
the right from the top:
>seat belt
>The light in
question
>SRS
>The other radiator looking light.
>
>If
anyone could let me know what if is I'd be grateful and if it's not
>the
radiator light then please let me know where to fill the
offending
>liquid.
>
>Thanks in
advance
>Gordon
>Dublin, Ireland
>1993 Japanese Import
VR4
>
http://fly.to/mr2.ie>
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:13:40 EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Does
Kansas have emissions testing?
Moving to Kansas in a few weeks. Anybody
know if I'll have to start worrying
about emissions on my '91
VR4?
Thanks,
Paul Klusman
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:13:44 EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Bad
throw-out bearing on clutch?
Anybody know if the shaft that the throw-out
bearing rides on is replaceable,
or is this a permanent part of the
transmission? (I believe it is called the
nose piece?) I suspect mine might
have a grove worn by a bad throw-out
bearing.
Thanks,
Paul
Klusman
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:28:34 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Does Kansas have emissions testing?
At 10:13 AM 5/31/00 EDT,
Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
>Moving to
Kansas in a few weeks. Anybody know if I'll have to start worrying
>about
emissions on my '91 VR4?
Dunno. But we have some great open track events
in Topeka at Heartland
Park, if you are into that sort of
stuff.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:34:38 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Does Kansas have emissions testing?
Just an initial visual
inspection on out of state vehicles and that's it. No
annuals or emissions
inspections.
Trevor
96 R/T TT W/No cats
92 GMC Typhoon
Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
> Moving to
Kansas in a few weeks. Anybody know if I'll have to start worrying
> about
emissions on my '91 VR4?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
Klusman
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 16:57:42 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
> He offered all of this to me for $200,
so I took
> the deal. My question is, other than being obscenely loud
(which I will be
> trying to correct with a high flow cat instead of a
TP), should this solve
> my boost problem?
No, I doubt that this
solves any boost problems especially because your
pre-cats are still in place
(I guess so) and the downpipe is also not
replaced by a better design (stock
is stupid). For loudness, no it really
isn't that load but with a too small
muffler the exhaust starts to resonate
between 2300 and 2900 and becomes
anyoing under load in this range. This is
the bad point with the Borla and
I'm now looking for any change i nthe
system that may help. One note, I doubt
that you will get T304 stainless
steel quality with the custom
exhaust.
> Also, how much does a TP help on a car thats basically
stock?
Hmm, this depends but I'd say nothing. We tested three cars on the
dyno with
different setups and at 1 bar max boost the stock exhaust had the
best
results !! Even my latest dyno was with the stock dp, all cats and
stock
exhaust and I got around 420hp at 16 psi. The most you will gain is
weight,
as the stock system is very heavy. With the Borla my car looks like
an SUV
at the moment, LOL !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 08:08:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Team3S: Was "flowmaster on a tt" , NOW: Low boost ?
Thanks for the info..
Ok so then this still leaves the question, why do I
have such low boost. WHen
I installed the MBC (yes a crappy walmart one, i
was just testing) it was
WILD.. it jumped my boost ALL OVER the
place... Could it be my selanoids? Or
maybe I havea misrouted hose or a
leak on an IC pipe? anything sound good?
On Wed, 31 May 2000, R.G. wrote:
> > He offered all of this
to me for $200, so I took
> > the deal. My question is, other than
being obscenely loud (which I will be
> > trying to correct with a high
flow cat instead of a TP), should this solve
> > my boost
problem?
>
> No, I doubt that this solves any boost problems
especially because your
> pre-cats are still in place (I guess so) and the
downpipe is also not
> replaced by a better design (stock is stupid). For
loudness, no it really
> isn't that load but with a too small muffler the
exhaust starts to resonate
> between 2300 and 2900 and becomes anyoing
under load in this range. This is
> the bad point with the Borla and I'm
now looking for any change i nthe
> system that may help. One note, I
doubt that you will get T304 stainless
> steel quality with the custom
exhaust.
>
> > Also, how much does a TP help on a car thats
basically stock?
>
> Hmm, this depends but I'd say nothing. We
tested three cars on the dyno with
> different setups and at 1 bar max
boost the stock exhaust had the best
> results !! Even my latest dyno was
with the stock dp, all cats and stock
> exhaust and I got around 420hp at
16 psi. The most you will gain is weight,
> as the stock system is very
heavy. With the Borla my car looks like an SUV
> at the moment, LOL
!
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 17:31:21 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Was "flowmaster on a tt" , NOW: Low boost ?
> have such low
boost. WHen I installed the MBC (yes a crappy walmart one, i
> was just
testing) it was WILD.. it jumped my boost ALL OVER the
>
place...
Have you probably something damaged. Saying ALL OVER the place
do you mean
above 1.2 bars or 17-18psi ?? If so then you must also think of
defective
internals.
> Could it be my selanoids?
I can't
remember what solenoids. Blitz I guess, right ?
> Or maybe I havea
misrouted hose or a
> leak on an IC pipe? anything sound
good?
Everything is possible from stuck open wastegates, misrouted hoses,
leaks on
IC, clogged pre-cats, cracked pistons, cracked rings, cocked up
valve seats,
etc. You should eliminate the possible causes step by step and
I'd start to
remove the controlelr solenoids and putting the stock pipes in
place.
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 08:43:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Was "flowmaster on a tt" , NOW: Low boost ?
It never went
over 1bar...
>
> Have you probably something damaged. Saying
ALL OVER the place do you mean
> above 1.2 bars or 17-18psi ?? If so then
you must also think of defective
> internals.
>
> > Could
it be my selanoids?
I haev no boost controller right now. I meant the
stock selanoid that
controlls the boost..
>
> I can't
remember what solenoids. Blitz I guess, right ?
>
> > Or maybe I
havea misrouted hose or a
> > leak on an IC pipe? anything sound
good?
>
> Everything is possible from stuck open wastegates,
misrouted hoses, leaks on
> IC, clogged pre-cats, cracked pistons, cracked
rings, cocked up valve seats,
> etc. You should eliminate the possible
causes step by step and I'd start to
> remove the controlelr solenoids and
putting the stock pipes in place.
>
Way to make me nervous! hehe.
I doubt its anything TOO major because ive
driven it 20,000 miles like this..
w.o ANY problems..
> Good luck
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 08:38:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
Hi Matt,
The stock wastegates
(on the 15Gs and 9Bs) are designed to open
around 0.4 bar (5-7 psi range).
Unless your exhaust has been damaged
and presents a severe restriction, I
highly doubt that it is limiting
you boost. If your car has the stock boost
control solenoid on it,
then 0.5 bar is actually pretty good. Since you have
a boost number I
assume you have an aftermarket gauge or boost controller?
The stock
gauge shows make believe numbers.
Go ahead and replace your
exhaust but your boost level problems lie
elsewhere. We'll need more info to
help you out. Mods done to car for
starters.
- -----------
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/The
new 3/S Backup CD Homepage
-->
http://www.manualcd.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Matt Wise" <
diranged@south-park.cc>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 6:50 AM
Subject: Team3S: Flowmaster on a
TT...
In my 93 VR-4, its active exhaust has been stuck in the shut
position
since I bought the car. Also, the car has only been able to get
.5bar
of boost no matter what you do (even disconnecting the
selanoids).
Through my research and desperate searching to answer this
question,
I have concluded that the closure of the exhaust must be limiting
the
boost level because the turbo cant spool up enough.
<snip>
Thanks
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 08:49:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
Interesting.. I have a Blitz Dual Turbo
timer.. which is a digital boost
guage and turbo timer. When I put it into
each gear and floor it, the max
boost I hit is about .45-.48 bar. I know the
car has the stock boost
selanoid too.. Is it possible that the boost
controller is actually only
measuring boost for one turbo somehow? Maybe i
misplaced the line? (I
doubt it, it seemed pretty easy), but possible..
Because even with this
low boost, Ive raced Camero SS's and only lost by 1-2
car lengths.. which
leads me to believe I have the right amount of power..
On Wed, 31 May 2000, Jeff Lucius wrote:
> Hi Matt,
>
> The stock wastegates (on the 15Gs and 9Bs) are designed to open
>
around 0.4 bar (5-7 psi range). Unless your exhaust has been damaged
> and
presents a severe restriction, I highly doubt that it is limiting
> you
boost. If your car has the stock boost control solenoid on it,
> then 0.5
bar is actually pretty good. Since you have a boost number I
> assume you
have an aftermarket gauge or boost controller? The stock
> gauge shows
make believe numbers.
>
> Go ahead and replace your exhaust but
your boost level problems lie
> elsewhere. We'll need more info to help
you out. Mods done to car for
> starters.
>
>
-----------
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
> Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
> -->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/>
The new 3/S Backup CD Homepage
> -->
http://www.manualcd.com/>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Wise" <
diranged@south-park.cc>
> To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
stealth@starnet.net>
>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 6:50 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Flowmaster on a
TT...
>
> In my 93 VR-4, its active exhaust has been stuck in the
shut position
> since I bought the car. Also, the car has only been able
to get .5bar
> of boost no matter what you do (even disconnecting the
selanoids).
> Through my research and desperate searching to answer this
question,
> I have concluded that the closure of the exhaust must be
limiting the
> boost level because the turbo cant spool up enough.
>
> <snip>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
>
http://im.yahoo.com/>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:09:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
I wanted to just thank everybody who
has offered their help to me on this
issue. I now have a number of ideas to
go on and hopefully will be able to
solve the mysterious missing boost
question :)
On Wed, 31 May 2000, Jeff Lucius wrote:
> Hi
Matt,
>
> The stock wastegates (on the 15Gs and 9Bs) are designed
to open
> around 0.4 bar (5-7 psi range). Unless your exhaust has been
damaged
> and presents a severe restriction, I highly doubt that it is
limiting
> you boost. If your car has the stock boost control solenoid on
it,
> then 0.5 bar is actually pretty good. Since you have a boost number
I
> assume you have an aftermarket gauge or boost controller? The
stock
> gauge shows make believe numbers.
>
> Go ahead and
replace your exhaust but your boost level problems lie
> elsewhere. We'll
need more info to help you out. Mods done to car for
> starters.
>
> -----------
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
> Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
> -->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/>
The new 3/S Backup CD Homepage
> -->
http://www.manualcd.com/>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Wise" <
diranged@south-park.cc>
> To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
stealth@starnet.net>
>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 6:50 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Flowmaster on a
TT...
>
> In my 93 VR-4, its active exhaust has been stuck in the
shut position
> since I bought the car. Also, the car has only been able
to get .5bar
> of boost no matter what you do (even disconnecting the
selanoids).
> Through my research and desperate searching to answer this
question,
> I have concluded that the closure of the exhaust must be
limiting the
> boost level because the turbo cant spool up enough.
>
> <snip>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
>
http://im.yahoo.com/>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1
#154
*********************
team3s
Wednesday, May 31
2000
Volume 01 : Number
155
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 12:06:08 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Lenco
Transmissions?
Anyone know the location (All I know is Calif) of Lenco
Transmissions?
I'm trying to get their Tel # or Web site to inquire about a
custom made
tranny
for my car. I went this far... how much more can it
cost?
BTW, if the NASDAQ doesn't come back soon I'll need a loan to buy
gas.
Murphy's Law does it again :)
Arty 91 VR-4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 11:18:30 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
That boost level is what you would see,
if no air was bleed off to the lines
to the wastegate actuators and the
stock boost solenoid wasn't bleeding off
air. You probably have the
tap to measure boost with the turbo timer
correctly installed. If you
stock boost solenoid is still hooked up with
vacum lines, it must not be
working. Check the wire connectors.
Do you still have that bleeder
valve hooked up?? It should be hooked up
like this:
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htmThat
little blue hose in the top pics is connected to the brass bleeder
valve and
the other end of it is hooked into the stock solenoid. If you
want to
test your boost, pull this bottom hose out of the solenoid. If you
get
a lot of boost, (ie. over 17psi), then your stock solenoid may be the
problem. Just don't leave this hose disconnected, because you'll hit
major
fuel cut and your car will detonate over time.
Does that make
sense??
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: Matt
Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
>To:
stealth@starnet.net>CC:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
stealth@stls.verio.net>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
>Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 08:49:30 -0700
(PDT)
>
>Interesting.. I have a Blitz Dual Turbo timer.. which is a
digital boost
>guage and turbo timer. When I put it into each gear and
floor it, the max
>boost I hit is about .45-.48 bar. I know the car has
the stock boost
>selanoid too.. Is it possible that the boost controller
is actually only
>measuring boost for one turbo somehow? Maybe i misplaced
the line? (I
>doubt it, it seemed pretty easy), but possible.. Because
even with this
>low boost, Ive raced Camero SS's and only lost by 1-2 car
lengths.. which
>leads me to believe I have the right amount of
power..
>
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
Hey thanks for the pictures. Its been
months since I had the bleeder valve
in, but at least i still have it. I
believe thats how I did it, but i'll
try again. Thanks I'll try that today
and see if it works.
On Wed, 31 May 2000, Curt Gendron
wrote:
> That boost level is what you would see, if no air was bleed
off to the lines
> to the wastegate actuators and the stock boost
solenoid wasn't bleeding off
> air. You probably have the tap to
measure boost with the turbo timer
> correctly installed. If you
stock boost solenoid is still hooked up with
> vacum lines, it must not
be working. Check the wire connectors.
>
> Do you still have
that bleeder valve hooked up?? It should be hooked up
> like
this:
>
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
That little blue hose in the top pics is connected to the brass bleeder
>
valve and the other end of it is hooked into the stock solenoid. If you
> want to test your boost, pull this bottom hose out of the
solenoid. If you
> get a lot of boost, (ie. over 17psi), then your
stock solenoid may be the
> problem. Just don't leave this hose
disconnected, because you'll hit major
> fuel cut and your car will
detonate over time.
>
> Does that make sense??
>
>
Curt
>
http://www.mn3s.org>
>
>
> >From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
>
>To:
stealth@starnet.net>
>CC:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
stealth@stls.verio.net>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
> >Date: Wed, 31 May
2000 08:49:30 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Interesting.. I have a Blitz
Dual Turbo timer.. which is a digital boost
> >guage and turbo timer.
When I put it into each gear and floor it, the max
> >boost I hit is
about .45-.48 bar. I know the car has the stock boost
> >selanoid too..
Is it possible that the boost controller is actually only
> >measuring
boost for one turbo somehow? Maybe i misplaced the line? (I
> >doubt
it, it seemed pretty easy), but possible.. Because even with this
>
>low boost, Ive raced Camero SS's and only lost by 1-2 car lengths..
which
> >leads me to believe I have the right amount of power..
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:39:06 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Lenco Transmissions?
- ----- Original Message ----- From: <
Aso8@aol.com>
> Anyone know the location
(All I know is Calif) of Lenco Transmissions?
> I'm trying to get their
Tel # or Web site to inquire about a custom
made
> tranny
> for
my car. I went this far... how much more can it cost?
> BTW, if the NASDAQ
doesn't come back soon I'll need a loan to buy gas.
> Murphy's Law does it
again :)
> Arty 91 VR-4
Lenco is at 6470 Federal, Lemon Grove, CA
91945. 1-800-854-2944.
NASDAQ? +300 points in 2 days ain't
enough??? :-)
Best,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:54:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: jdorsey <
ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Starting troubles...
All,
I'm experiencing starting
problems.
1) Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all the way to
the floor.
2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no
turnover
from the ignition.
3) If I leave key
turned to on, pump clutch
repeatedly, eventually the car will
start.
Can someone explain what's going on and what I need to
do to
get this fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
Clutch adjustment?
Easy fix, or difficult problem?
Any help is
appreciated..
Thanks,
JDorsey
'91 R/T TT
Pearl
White
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:57:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Starting troubles...
You need a new starter.
Starter
relay isnt firing as it should..common.
I mean, not "common" but what
you are experiencing is a common symptom of
a starter thats gone
out.
You may check your battery connections as well for
clean/tight
connections.
On Wed, 31 May 2000, jdorsey
wrote:
> All,
> I'm experiencing starting problems.
> 1)
Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all the way to
> the
floor.
> 2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no
turnover
> from the ignition.
> 3) If I
leave key turned to on, pump clutch
> repeatedly, eventually the car will
start.
>
> Can someone explain what's going on and what I need
to
> do to get this fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
>
Clutch adjustment? Easy fix, or difficult problem?
> Any help
is appreciated..
>
> Thanks,
> JDorsey
> '91 R/T
TT
> Pearl White
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
>
http://im.yahoo.com/>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 11:58:19 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Starting troubles...
2 possibilities.
1) the switch on the
clutch pedal is shot (won't let you start the car
if it doesn't think the
clutch pedal is depressed.
2) Battery is shot. After some time passes
you get just enough out of
it to get it to turn over.
I'd suggest
starting with the battery. Swap it out from another vehicle.
That'll at
least rule it out in a hurry.
Good luck.
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: jdorsey [
SMTP:ja_dorsey@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 11:54 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Starting
troubles...
All,
I'm experiencing starting problems.
1) Clutch is
fully engaged...pressed all the way to
the floor.
2)
Turn the key, hear the "click" but no turnover
from the
ignition.
3) If I leave key turned to on, pump clutch
repeatedly,
eventually the car will start.
Can someone explain what's going on and
what I need to
do to get this fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
Clutch adjustment? Easy fix, or difficult problem?
Any help
is appreciated..
Thanks,
JDorsey
'91 R/T TT
Pearl
White
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:01:31 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Starting troubles...
JD,
Have you checked the battery
terminals? It's possible that as the car
shakes from your "pumping", it
gives you enough contact to get it
started.
I hope it's that
simple... Good luck.
F
- ----- Original Message -----From:
"jdorsey" <
ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
>
All,
> I'm experiencing starting problems.
> 1) Clutch is fully
engaged...pressed all the way to
> the floor.
> 2) Turn the key,
hear the "click" but no turnover
> from the ignition.
> 3) If I
leave key turned to on, pump clutch
> repeatedly, eventually the car will
start.
>
> Can someone explain what's going on and what I need
to
> do to get this fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
>
Clutch adjustment? Easy fix, or difficult problem?
> Any help is
appreciated..
>
> Thanks,
>
JDorsey
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 18:06:25 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
My transmission may be on the way out
(I'm hoping for driveline slop).
If it is and I ahve no choice but to get a
new gearbox I would be
interested in replacing my 5-speed with a
6-speed.
Is this possible?
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:10:49 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
You would have to do the transfer case
as well.
I cant answer for the shifter linkage however.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Tyrrell [
mailto:gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 10:06 AM
To: 3000gt
Subject: Team3S: Swap 5-speed
for 6-speed?
My transmission may be on the way out (I'm hoping for
driveline slop).
If it is and I ahve no choice but to get a new gearbox I
would be
interested in replacing my 5-speed with a 6-speed.
Is this
possible?
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import
VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:11:06 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: OMG! STOCK BOV SUCKS!
This looks the direction im going..but with
a 1g BOV. *heh*
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [
mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Saturday,
May 27, 2000 11:10 AM
To: Team3S List
Subject: Re: Team3S: OMG! STOCK BOV
SUCKS!
> What is the best BOV I can get for a 95
VR4????
Get a 2st gen DSM replacement (Buschur ?) and you're fine with a
cheaper
price. Replaces the factory BPV and vents back to the
intake.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:19:22 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Starting troubles...
I have been experiencing this too for
over a year. I have replaced the battery,
battery cable post clamps,
starter, starter relay, and alarm start-disable
relay. I believe the
clutch switch is fine since when I hold the key on, every
time I press the
clutch I hear solenoids click. My cables look fine with
no
corrosion. I may try to clean the end that connects to the starter
to see if
that helps. Perhaps the Mitsu rebuilt starter is the
problem...
Good luck,
Ken
>
> All,
> I'm
experiencing starting problems.
> 1) Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all
the way to
> the floor.
> 2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no
turnover
> from the ignition.
> 3) If I leave key turned to on, pump
clutch
> repeatedly, eventually the car will start.
>
> Can
someone explain what's going on and what I need to
> do to get this
fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
> Clutch adjustment? Easy
fix, or difficult problem?
> Any help is appreciated..
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:24:26 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad throw-out bearing on clutch?
> Anybody know if the
shaft that the throw-out bearing rides on is replaceable,
> or is this a
permanent part of the transmission? (I believe it is called the
> nose
piece?) I suspect mine might have a grove worn by a bad throw-out
Try MD
Auto 619-390-0450 (their prefix may have changed to 858 or 760) for info
on
rebuilt Getrags and some parts.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Forget
world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 13:28:10 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Lenco - Got it
Thanks
Thanks everybody. This list is the ultimate research tool.
Arty
91 VR-4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 11:27:06 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Apexi avc-r
> I need help with my AVC-R. I cant get it set
up right. Why don't the RPM's
> read the same numbers as my tach i.e. 3000
rpm's reads 500. I just don't get
> it. I have not been able to get it to
"learn" anything. Can someone please
> explain some of it's functions the
manual is no help. What does F/B do, start
> duty do. Can any one offer me
any good setup programs that are working good
> for them. My car does fine
in first gear it boosts to 1.0kg/cm2 but in second
> gear it jumps to 1.13
kg/cm2 and in third it goes to 1.18 kg/cm2. I can get
> stable boost it
keeps over boosting.
Hi Alex,
I've sent you the following
information at least twice before. If you read it,
it should be very
helpful ;). Take note of the conditions required for
learning.
Bill & Henri's diagnosis about the purple wire is most likely
the
culprit. You need to resolve your RPM display before doing anything
else. Find
out if the purple wire is on the RPM wire, OR the injector
duty cycle wire, and
configure the Apexi appropriately. For best
performance, the wire should be on
RPM (you can use a toggle switch if you
want to change between the RPM & IDC
wires, you just have to change the
Apexi's settings each time). Also check your
sensors & throttle
position, etc from the "test mode" screen.
See post below for F/B, &
Start Duty explanations. Note that the start duty is
different than
your initial duty cycle setting. If your initial duty cycle
setting is
too high, or you will overshoot your boost setting at low RPM. If it
is
too low, you will build boost too slow.
Good luck, call me if you have
questions,
Ken
- ---- Included post ------
Here are a few tips on
setup:
The controller allows you to specify your desired boost
setting. You can also
specify a "beginning point" for the duty
cycle. During learning, the Apexi will
learn the correct duty settings
for specified RPM bands. It will also change
the display of your
setting, i.e 40% to "***".
Specify desired boost setting, no higher than
1.05 though for a stock fuel
system. Specify initial duty cycle -- I
use ~40% for peak boost of 1.05.
Perform WOT accellerations from 2000 RPM
to Redline. Do 5-6 accels in 2nd gear,
then 4+ in 3rd gear.
The
Apexi computer seems to always be learning if all the following criteria
are
met:
1) Throttle is above certain %, close to WOT (i.e. it only learns
when you
"floor it")
2) Boost pressure doesn't exceed your specified
setting
3) "Learn Gear" is enabled (for gear in which you wish to learn
in)
4) "Start Duty" is set to zero (for gear in which you wish to learn
in)
If you overboost, then lower your "beginning point" duty
setting.
I have Learn Gear normally disabled for 1st & 2nd.
During intitial setup, I
enable 2nd Learn Gear to quickly learn
settings. It is easy to do a half dozen
accels to redline in 2nd, and
much more difficult to find the road to get to
redline in 3rd or higher gears
;). After values are learned, I disable 2nd and
just let 3rd+
"maintain" the learned settings.
RPM rise so rapidly in 1st that 1st gear
learning isn't realistic. In order to
build the maximum boost in 1st, I
have the Start Duty set to +50%. A Start Duty
setting other than "0"
will disable learning mode for that gear. A Start Duty
setting is an
adjustment to the baseline duty cycle curve that the Apexi has
learned.
This allows you to control over and under boosting for
different
gears.
The FeedBack setting affects the speed of the
solenoid control. You want to
specify a setting as high as
possible. However, if the setting is too high, the
boost will oscillate
around the set point. Use the graph to see this. Start
high, then
lower the setting until boost stops oscillating and holds steady.
My
current settings (from memory)
are:
RPM
Boost Setting
0-4000
1.00
4000-5000
1.05
5000+
1.00
Gear 1 2 3 4 5
Learn Gear X X O O O
Start
Duty
+50 0 0 0
0
FeedBack
9 7 5 3 3
You could probably set Start Duty for 2nd to be +2 or so to get
a slight
overboost. 2nd gear accels are fairly quick so there probably
isn't too much
risk of detonation.
- --------------------
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 14:30:07 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 25% off from CarParts (off topic)
Hey everyone,
There has
been a lot of interest lately in the getting the Borla twin turbo
exhaust
from CarParts. I have a 25% off link at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
This makes the Borla exhaust only $455.
The 25% off link lasts until
the end of May, which is today. The link may
still be active for a few
days, but I just wanted to remind anyone still
thinking about getting the
Borla.
Follow the directions on my CarParts page for the 25% off
links. You
actually have to click on a couple of different links to
get it.
If you have any questions or comments about it, please reply to
me privatly.
Thanks,
Curt
http://www.mn3.org________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 14:38:41 CDT
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
Make sure that you tack on a
rear-end and driveshaft as well as shifter and
shifter
cables.
Mark
'91RT/TT
>From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>To:
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com,
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
>Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 10:10:49
-0700
>
>You would have to do the transfer case as
well.
>
>I cant answer for the shifter linkage
however.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gordon Tyrrell
[
mailto:gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com]
>Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 10:06 AM
>To: 3000gt
>Subject: Team3S: Swap
5-speed for 6-speed?
>
>
>My transmission may be on the way
out (I'm hoping for driveline slop).
>If it is and I ahve no choice but to
get a new gearbox I would be
>interested in replacing my 5-speed with a
6-speed.
>
>Is this
possible?
>
>Thanks
>Gordon
>Dublin, Ireland
>1993
Japanese Import VR4
>
http://fly.to/mr2.ie>
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 14:04:22 -0700
From: vect0r0 <
vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NEEDED: Timing/Belt/Cam Diagram
If you guys remember
before, I believe that I have a spun rod bearing or
a broken rod...
What I found out today is that I believe my tensioner
is broken! Either
the tensioner just broke and the timing is WAY off
which is causing the
noise, or I broke/stretched a rod or bearing which
caused one of the cams to
"freeze up" for a split second breaking the
tentioner due to too much
stress.
Any ideas on why the tensioner would be broken??
Down to
my question: I would like to know if someone could either scan
and post
for me the TIMING diagram so that I can re-adjust my
cams/timing or maybe
tell me where I should set it for a 1992 Stealth
TT. I can see the
marks on the front two cams, and the front pully, but
am NOT sure as to where
A) The timing shoudl be and B) Where the
reference marks
are.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thank
you......
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 18:31:12 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Web
page up
I know this isn't real technical and I don't have a problem that
needs
solving but if any of you folks have some time to kill and would
be
interested I have my web page up and running, if anyone would like to take
a
look.
If you want to see more of a specific item please let me
know.
My web page is:
http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/Also,
some of you might remember the sway bar that was advertized here about
two
months ago, well I even have a shot of that installed. As well
as
various powder coated parts and stainless nuts and bolts under the
hood.
Thanks,
Dave Best
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 16:04:00 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Web page up
swaybar.jpg (and the link name
itself)...
Thats a strut brace.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: WALTER D. BEST [
mailto:WDBO39@erols.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
May 31, 2000 3:31 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Web page up
I know this isn't real technical and I don't have
a problem that needs
solving but if any of you folks have some time to kill
and would be
interested I have my web page up and running, if anyone would
like to take a
look.
If you want to see more of a specific item please
let me know.
My web page is:
http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/Also,
some of you might remember the sway bar that was advertized here about
two
months ago, well I even have a shot of that installed. As well
as
various powder coated parts and stainless nuts and bolts under the
hood.
Thanks,
Dave Best
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
31 May 2000 16:22:10 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: head porting advice
Thanks for the head porting advice given
by Barry E. King, I needed this aadvice to resist the temptation to mess
up my heads. Joe Mondello is the head expert on oldsmobile engines and he
gave almost the exact same advice for all out performance on my 69 Olds, but he
had a few tricks for the shadetree mechanic: teardropping the casting around
valve stems, smoothing the radius directly around the valves,raising the roof of
the port slightly and never porting the floor except to smooth radius near
valves.
After reading Barry E. King's email I looked at my heads
closer today and noticed that none of these basic tips applied. The stock
heads already have excellent shape in all of the areas mentioned.
John K
Monnin
91 VR4 (in all 3 stalls of my gargage)
jkmonnin@altavista.com-
------------------------------
Original meassage below
From:
"Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Porting Heads
Definitely have them done
by someone who is very knowledgeable/experienced
and uses a flow bench. The
intuitive V8 tricks do not work properly on the
stock already awesome
flowing heads. Polishing does zip, BTW, as was proven
to me on two
separate flow benches. It makes sense since you want a certain
amount
of turbulence in the intake charge and mirror-polishing the exhaust
side
does nothing but lighten the pocket book and make unseen engine parts
look
pretty. Most often seen on Honduh err Honda that are slammed, bassin',
and have nothing except a 6" tip and a bottle of N20 and zero
traction. But
I digress. What little benfit may be seen on
some heads will not make a
statistically significant measurable difference
in HP or drivability.
The stock heads flow better than most
tricked out V8 heads and to squeeze
much more out of them you may (will)
sacrifice in other areas. However,
enormous flow can be had from these
heads. Backed up with big blowers and a
few more cubes and you're
easily into extreme HP range. Cams are needed but
so far noone seems
to have any that overall actually work better than stock,
and going with
higher lift (required for the next stage) is difficult and
very expensive
due to the head design.
Mine were done by a company in Phoenix
that specializes in fast Mustangs.
The guy had never done 6G72 heads but had
done a few Hondas. He was blown
away at how well they performed on the
flow bench right off the engine. He
managed to get a peak increase of
18% peak and 10-15% (min-max) across the
usable cam lift range. Low lift
actually suffered a very small amount but
this should not matter too much as
the added engine displacement (the block
was bored out and fitted with
larger pistons) will more than make up for any
loss of torque.
Anyway, you can expect a fairly good boost but it may be expensive
depending
upon how far you go with it. While it is apart, the valves
should replaced
as required and balanced, guides inspected and brought back
to spec, and a
nice radiused grind on the seats. The Extrude hone
process can be applied
to the intake plenum for an added bit of flow.
Barry
_______________________________________________________________________
Why
pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
http://jump.altavista.com/freeaccess4.go_______________________________________________________________________
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 19:36:12 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Web page up
OK, noted and will change the pic's name.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
<
WDB039@erols.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Web page
up
> swaybar.jpg (and the link name itself)...
>
>
Thats a strut brace.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
WALTER D. BEST [
mailto:WDBO39@erols.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 3:31 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Web page up
>
>
> I know this isn't real
technical and I don't have a problem that needs
> solving but if any of
you folks have some time to kill and would be
> interested I have my web
page up and running, if anyone would like to take
a
>
look.
>
> If you want to see more of a specific item please let me
know.
>
> My web page is:
http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/>
>
Also, some of you might remember the sway bar that was advertized
here
about
> two months ago, well I even have a shot of that
installed. As well as
> various powder coated parts and stainless
nuts and bolts under the hood.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
Best
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 19:37:44 -0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: head porting advice
What about backcuttingt the valves? Has anybody
tried that
?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 19:02:26 -0700
From:
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.comSubject:
Team3S: FW: Apex R Motorsports?
Hello all,
Has anyone used
Apex R Motorsports? Their web site is
http://www.apexvr4.com/ .
They say they
are focused on the VR-4/Stealth Market.
I'm looking to purchase a Greddy
Profec A and Turbo Timer and so far they have
the best price. I'm curious
though, their site lists a Greddy Turbo Timer with
wiring harness ... no
other site (including Greddy's) lists a wiring harness
specifically for the
VR-4... is this something I should worry about?
So, I need to know, are
they fast? and do they deliver what they promise?
and Finally, which wiring
harness should I get for my VR-4 if I buy a greddy
turbo
timer?
Thanks!
Nissa
95 VR-4
New water pump, new hood latch
and new motor mount... what a week!
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
31 May 2000 19:07:14 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 6-speed transmission in 1st Gen?
Will a 6-speed transmission work
on a 91 VR4?
I know that to convert to a 6 speed transmission that I would
also have to get a newer tranfer case but I don't know if the shifter will work,
or if there is any other incompatabilities?
Anyone done this
conversion?
The reason I ask is because there is a new 6-speed for sale
on e-bay the bid is currently $800 and the reserve has not been met
yet.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com91 VR4
_______________________________________________________________________
Why
pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
http://jump.altavista.com/freeaccess4.go_______________________________________________________________________
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #155
*********************
