team3s
Tuesday, May 30
2000
Volume 01 : Number
153
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 22:16:57 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Nitrous
The higher cylinder pressures, more fual, more air and
semi-forced induction
will make it harder to ignite the spark plugs,
resulting in stumbling. The
denser air/fuel makes it harder tfor the
spark to make the jump. I have
absolutely no problems with the factory
injectors, and fuel pump.
- -Cody
#Yeah. I am getting a
dry system. So I don't even need to upgrade any of
#that crap.
What should I gap the plugs to for optimum power?
#I got my nitrous for $500
from NOPI. Hated ordering from them, but they
#were the only ones at a
decent price and in stock at the time. I am going
#with the 70 shot
jetting on my car and it is awesome. You will need to
#regap your
plugs... .42 is way too high for nitrous applications,
#especially on
the 3000GT SL. You might try ordering it
from
#www.acceleratedaccessories.com Frank and Matt are great
guys.
#you will not
#need upgraded injectors or fuel pump for only 70hp
shot nitrous (or even
#100hp shot) our fuel pumps are capable of that
much factory, as
#well as our
#injectors. I'm guessing you want dry
manifold -0 that is the setup i
#chose - Setup is easy, and almost
foolproof.
#
#Let me knwo if you ahve any other questions> I've
had NOS on my '93 SL for
#two years, and over 25000
miles....
#
***Info:
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Date:
Tue, 30 May 2000 00:02:12 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Synthetic
Oil
Hi gang, time for my first oil change. Had a quick question, the
previous
owner always used Mobil1 in the car. I have a busy schedule and
plan on going
to a Valvoline Pit Stop tomorrow. They have their own
synthetic oil and just
wanted to make sure it is ok to switch from Mobil1 to
Valvoline synthetic.
Thanks in advance.
Bill in NY
94'
VR-4
***Info:
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Date:
Tue, 30 May 2000 12:27:26 EDT
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bearings part of strut assembly?
Hi folks!
I
have a problem with my car. When I cut the wheel hard, it makes this
"clunk" noise, then pulls in the direction of the turn. After looking
at it
with my mechanic, my mechanic noticed that the spring is actually what
seems
to be making the noise. That is, when I turn the wheel, the
spring turns
and makes the thump.
The mechanic believes that I have
seized bearings in the upper portion of
the strut mount. I don't ever
recall seeing these when I installed the
struts and springs.
BTW,
these are GAB in the front + ground control springs.
Is he talking out of
his hat? Is there something else which is causing this
problem?
Is it possible to tighten the upper strut mounting nut too
tightly?
Your help would be greatly
appreciated.
Regards,
Dennis
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 May 2000 10:39:40 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <
murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bearings part of strut assembly?
sounds like he is right.
overtightening the nut will not cause problem but
wrong assembly
will.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 May 2000 21:26:58 +0100
From: "Martin" <
martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
turbo timer help
Hi all
I have a Starbo G12 dual fully auto starter
and turbo timer on my car but
have no idea how to operate the auto starter
feature which is programable.
Is there anyone out there that knows of this
unit or has some instructions
on it or even knows of the manufacturers
website where i can get some info.
Thanks in
advance
Martin
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 May 2000 15:00:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbo timer help
- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin"
<
martin@star.co.uk>
> Hi
all
> I have a Starbo G12 dual fully auto starter and turbo timer on my
car
but
> have no idea how to operate the auto starter feature which
is
programable.
> Is there anyone out there that knows of this unit or
has some
instructions
> on it or even knows of the manufacturers
website where i can get some
info.
> Thanks in advance
>
Martin
Hey, Martin,
I don't think this is a product we've ever
heard of here in the US...,
not by that name, anyway. It might be an
item that some of the other
European members might have come across. Or
it might even be specific
to the UK. There's a pretty good UK database
called the "Scooby
Modifications Database" that might have it, so you might
want to start
there. Here's the URL:
http://wkweb4.cableinet.co.uk/bolton/Scooby/Mods_Database.htmlI
also did a quick search on AltaVista, and the only likely pages I
could find
were in Swedish, so it's possible that it's origins are
there... I've
copied 2 of the Euro Admins in case they've come across
the Starbo
G12-- Admin (and Subscription God) Mikael Akesson is in
Sweden, so
maybe he can translate the pages, and Admin Roger Gerl is in
Switzerland--
R.G. is very "mods-savvy", speaks a gazillion languages,
knows everything,
and can fire a rifle, too... :-)
Good luck.
Forrest
<== ...can hear Roger loading the magazine now...
:-)
***Info:
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Date:
Tue, 30 May 2000 09:12:18 -0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: OMG! STOCK BOV SUCKS!
The Greddy Type S BOV...Order from
Brian at GTPro. I'll install it if you like, (though it'll have to be at your
house, I just moved out this weekend)
Dan Jett
94 Stealth
TT
>>> Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> -
5/26/00 9:29 AM >>>
Ok..
Given all this data..whats the best
BOV I can buy for a 95 VR4
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 May 2000 22:05:10 EDT
From:
DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
Apexi avc-r
I need help with my AVC-R. I cant get it set up right. Why
don't the RPM's
read the same numbers as my tach i.e. 3000 rpm's reads 500.
I just don't get
it. I have not been able to get it to "learn" anything. Can
someone please
explain some of it's functions the manual is no help. What
does F/B do, start
duty do. Can any one offer me any good setup programs
that are working good
for them. My car does fine in first gear it boosts to
1.0kg/cm2 but in second
gear it jumps to 1.13 kg/cm2 and in third it goes to
1.18 kg/cm2. I can get
stable boost it keeps over boosting.
thank you very much
Alex
stock except K&N FIPK
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
30 May 2000 19:25:18 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Porting Heads
I have noticed several list members had their heads
ported. Did you have them done or did you do them
yourself? I did the heads on my 69 olds but I have detailed
descriptions of how to port that particular head. Aluminum has to be
easier to port than cast iron those heads took a long time.
Anyone have
any head porting suggestions?
John Monnin
91 3000GT VR4
jkmonnin@altavista.com_______________________________________________________________________
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pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 May 2000 23:16:21 EDT
From:
BHurvitz@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Apexi avc-r
Try this site, it has a good explanation of the Apex avc-r.
www.huntleyracing.com/boostcontrollers.htmI
found it very helpful in understanding the AVC.
Also check your wires, they
may be wrong. In particular the two wires that
allow you to switch between
the RPM and the injector cycle
Good luck, you will get it to work, just be
patient
Bob 91tt
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 May 2000 22:53:57 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Porting Heads
Definitely have them done by someone who is very
knowledgeable/experienced
and uses a flow bench. The intuitive V8
tricks do not work properly on the
stock already awesome flowing heads.
Polishing does zip, BTW, as was proven
to me on two separate flow
benches. It makes sense since you want a certain
amount of turbulence
in the intake charge and mirror-polishing the exhaust
side does nothing but
lighten the pocket book and make unseen engine parts
look pretty. Most
often seen on Honduh err Honda that are slammed, bassin',
and have nothing
except a 6" tip and a bottle of N20 and zero traction. But
I
digress. What little benfit may be seen on some heads will not make
a
statistically significant measurable difference in HP or
drivability.
The stock heads flow better than most tricked out V8 heads
and to squeeze
much more out of them you may (will) sacrifice in other
areas. However,
enormous flow can be had from these heads. Backed
up with big blowers and a
few more cubes and you're easily into extreme HP
range. Cams are needed but
so far noone seems to have any that overall
actually work better than stock,
and going with higher lift (required for the
next stage) is difficult and
very expensive due to the head
design.
Mine were done by a company in Phoenix that specializes in fast
Mustangs.
The guy had never done 6G72 heads but had done a few Hondas.
He was blown
away at how well they performed on the flow bench right off the
engine. He
managed to get a peak increase of 18% peak and 10-15%
(min-max) across the
usable cam lift range. Low lift actually suffered
a very small amount but
this should not matter too much as the added engine
displacement (the block
was bored out and fitted with larger pistons) will
more than make up for any
loss of torque.
Anyway, you can expect a
fairly good boost but it may be expensive depending
upon how far you go with
it. While it is apart, the valves should replaced
as required and
balanced, guides inspected and brought back to spec, and a
nice radiused
grind on the seats. The Extrude hone process can be applied
to the
intake plenum for an added bit of flow.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> I have noticed several list members had their
heads ported. Did
> you have them done or did you do them
yourself? I did the heads
> on my 69 olds but I have detailed
descriptions of how to port
> that particular head. Aluminum
has to be easier to port than
> cast iron those heads took a long
time.
>
> Anyone have any head porting suggestions?
>
>
John Monnin
> 91 3000GT VR4
>
jkmonnin@altavista.com***Info:
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End
of team3s V1 #153
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