team3s
Monday, May 29
2000
Volume 01 : Number
152
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 May 2000 18:15:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 15G vs 9B mystery solved (long post)
Well I owe the group an
apology concerning my claims that my engine
with 15Gs maxed out the stock
injectors at 10 psi, while 9Bs seem to
go to 15+ psi before maxing them out,
and thereby suggesting that my
engine/15Gs pushed as much air at 10 psi as
9Bs at 15 psi. I based
that statement on real data using the TMO datalogger
last fall. And
while the data and my statements regarding fuel usage were
accurate,
my conclusion regarding air consumption was wrong. When I
performed
those tests last fall, my engine was suffering from an extreme
case
of timing over-advancement (over 60º !!!). The major symptoms
were
poor idle and knocking. I fixed the problem this spring and
just
today was able to perform new tests with the datalogger. A
labeled
image of the TMO output can be found at the url below.
http://www.3si.org/upload/Jl_2runs1b.gifThe
area to focus on is inside the rectangle which shows readings
while
accelerating in first gear for two data plots overlayed. The
boost gauge
recorded 0.97 and 1.05 kg/cm2 (13.8 & 15 psi) with nearly
identical
numbers for two separate runs. I was absolutely amazed to
see a zero knock
count and IDC of about 83% max (RPM x IPW / 1200 =
IDC%). Now that I know the
timing was over-advanced, I see that last
fall the ECU must have been dumping
fuel like crazy trying to kill
the knock. IDC was at 100% at the same test
area but only 10 psi
boost. I don't think adding the ARC2 makes too much
difference (same
injectors).
I have spent a lot of time trying to
figure out how more air (mass)
could have gone through at 10 psi than 15 psi.
Static vs dynamic
pressure? Nope, much less than 1 psi difference in dynamic
pressure
between 10 and 15 psi. Cooler air from the 15Gs? Nope, cooler and
10
psi is still less dense than warmer and 15 psi (other things
being
equal). Greater volumetric efficiency due to head flow work,
exhaust
upgrades etc? Nope, my engine would have to be at an unlikely
100%
versus a likely 85-90% for stock at peak torque. A poorly
adjusted
crank angle sensor causing over-advancement? Yep, the last item
I
checked in the long list of items that can cause poor idling. Well,
now
I can move on plus trade my 720s for more-than-adequate 550
cc/min injectors.
Also, I wonder how high I can go with boost before
I do get significant
knocking? I need to change oil and recalibrate
the EVC before doing those
tests.
My apologies again for any quibblings or extra drinks my
incorrect
conclusions may have brought. But I'm damn happy I can run 15 psi
(PR
of 2.25!) with no knock.
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 00:15:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Overheating..
I have a problem, where im losing
coolant.
The car is building up a leak, and pooling water in the V of the
block
between the heads, on the drivers side. Eventually causing
overheating
issues..etc..
Dunno whats down there to leak, but does
anyone have an idea?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 09:42:43 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 15G vs 9B mystery solved
Jeff,
First, remove the battery
and coolant data from the logs as they do not help
a lot if any. Also you'll
gain some more data on the logs due to the only
relevant readings too
:-)
> The area to focus on is inside the rectangle which shows
readings
> while accelerating in first gear for two data plots
overlayed.
Please note that our cars ARE NOT UNDER FULL LOAD in 1st and
2nd. The log
must be taken up to 3rd and at least 5600rpm to get the real
danger area.
> fall the ECU must have been dumping fuel like crazy
trying to kill
> the knock.
Sure :)
> Also, I wonder how
high I can go with boost before
> I do get significant knocking?
As
said, your log was not in the danger area but of course you already had a
lot
of knock in the low load area due to the wrong timing. Now with the
correct
settings, knock usually starts from 4800 up and this is what you
have to look
at. And yes, the 15 are having a lower discharge temperature
and therefore
you can run higher boost as their efficiency map is definitely
better than on
the 9b. Of course this highly depends on fuel and ambient !
Happy
boosting
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 09:45:49 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Overheating..
> The car is building up a leak, and pooling
water in the V of the block
> between the heads, on the drivers
side. Eventually causing overheating
> issues..etc..
>
>
Dunno whats down there to leak, but does anyone have an idea?
Below the
intake manifold there is the large water pipe that runs from the
water pump
to the thermostat housing. Either the O-ring of this pipe or the
pump itselfs
is leaking :-(
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 00:51:35 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Overheating..
The knock sensor is down there, but I doubt it is in the
water jacket. Most
likely is the seal(s) on the water tube that runs
through there. IIRC they
are simple O-rings. Big PITA to get at
(like almost everything else on
these engines). Hopefully it isn't a
head gasket which is the other
possibility. Could be the thermostat
housing too I guess.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I have a problem, where im losing
coolant.
>
> The car is building up a leak, and pooling water in the
V of the block
> between the heads, on the drivers side. Eventually
causing overheating
> issues..etc..
>
> Dunno whats down there
to leak, but does anyone have an idea?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 10:03:45 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Overheating..
> The knock sensor is down there, but I doubt it
is in the water jacket.
No it isn't :)
> Hopefully it isn't a
head gasket which is the other
> possibility.
My other thoughts
too, but then often it could be seen as coolant is burnt.
>
Could be the thermostat housing too I guess.
Sits on the passenger side
of the engine and it seems to leak and the
drivers side. I'd remove the
intake to check if it is really leaking there.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 08:46:22 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Hard to work on our cars
I will now say that working on Supra TT is just
as
hard as our engines. They have way MORE of a
rat's nest of hoses,
fittings, crap on intake side;
EGR tube placement, LESS room for your hands
etc, changing
injectors/fuelrail/adding fuelpump on my friend's 94 TT Supra
(with
HKS twinturbo kit already) was gigando hassle.
I suppose familiarity
makes it easier but it's easier
on our cars even so. Changing from
stock turbos was
no joy either! So, we can all complain equally
:)
Jack T.
"Barry E. King" wrote:
> Big PITA to get at (like
almost everything else on
> these engines).
>
Barry
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 May 2000 17:52:14 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Re:slow 1/4 mile time
FWIW..if you are in a 6spd, do NOT shift
into 4th..stay 3rd.
I gained 5mph that way consistently.
5spd Im
not sure, but in my Supras I need 4th..not enough legs in 3rd to
clear.
:-----Original Message-----
:From: xwing [
mailto:xwing@execpc.com]
:Sent: Saturday,
May 27, 2000 5:58 PM
:To: Team3S
:Subject: Team3S: Re:slow 1/4 mile
time
:
:
:If your car is capable of 100.89 mph it is making reasonable
hp, and
:should be capable of ~13.5 to 13.9 if driven correctly. Your
launch,
:and possibly your downtrack shifting, need some improvement.
:For
example, I'd bet your 60 foot time is 1.9+ at best...should be
:in the 1.8's,
and if really good in the 1.7's.
:Jack T.
:
:DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com wrote:
:
:>
92 VR-4. track yesterday 14.639 @ 100.89 mph.
:
:> K&N FIPK,
Digital APEXi AVC-R
:> Boost Controller. peak boost was
1.30
:> kg/cm2, 18.4 psi. I should have a faster time.
:>
why? what times are rest of club running for
comparison?
:
:
:***Info:
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:
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 10:32:45 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re:slow 1/4 mile time
On a TT, definitely stay in 3rd on a 5 spd
as well. 3rd gear is geared a
little higher in the 5-spd than the 6
spd, as all gears need a little wider
coverage becuase there are fewer gears
to shift through. So someone will
also be less likely to shift in to
4th on a 5spd.
- -Cody
#FWIW..if you are in a 6spd, do NOT shift
into 4th..stay 3rd.
#
#I gained 5mph that way consistently.
#
#5spd
Im not sure, but in my Supras I need 4th..not enough legs in
#3rd to
clear.
#
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 11:41:22 -0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: parts I need to buy
Hi All,
Here is a list of parts I
need.
All of the parts are for a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4 (AWD,
AWS,Turbo).
(The figure numbers are from the 92-69 service manual,
vol1)
1) Passenger's side “side air dam” (figure 51-19, item
1)
2) Front bumper face assembly (figure 51-9, item 15. and figure
51-11)
3) Front under cover panel (figure 51-9, items 3,4,5, and 6)
4)
Driver's side fog light assembly (figure 51-9 item 8)
5) (Driver's side)
power window motor and cable assembly (figure 42-44,
item 8)
6) Wheel,
stock 1992 VR4. 5 spoke, alloy(?) not the chrome one
If you
have any of this to sell, please contact me ASAP.
I have contacted M & S
recycling and perhaps they will have some of what
I need.
On a
completely unrelated note, even with AWD and AWS, the car does not
handle
well when one of the front tires looses all of its air!
Thanks,
John
T
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 13:50:53 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: parts I need to buy
I'm guessing you are making a joke of this,
but I wil lcomment anyways. I
had a blowout at like 70 mph one day,
around a turn, on a two lane highway
in Missouri. This was a little
over a year ago. The front passenger side
tire lost all it's air
suddenly (the tire was sliced by something in the
road - on the sidewall at
that) Anyways, I didn't even start to lose
control. For about 1/2
mile I drove on it, and had to really restrict
myself, 'cause it was liek
nothing had happened. When I pulled over, my
friends following me asked
what was wrong with the car. They had no idea I
had a blowout, and were
wondering why I was driving slower (I still drove at
50 with the flat)
ALl i can say is that I love the 18" wheels, and
especially the Yokohama
Tires I had on at the time (stock VR-4 tires) They
saved the rim and
possibly my life too , because with a different tire,
things may have ended
up alot worse (Matt is in that situation right now) I
now have Nitto
NT555's on my 18" wheels, and I hope I never have to go
through tthat again
(finding an 18" tire in a town of 5000 is kinda hard,
and we were moving, so
a donut spare was not an option - I ended up buying
a cheapo 15" wheel
and comparable tire to put on the rear of the car (I have
the FWD, so the
tranny was not an issue)) Any other similar experiences
with
low-profile tires?
- -Cody
#On a completely unrelated note,
even with AWD and AWS, the car does not
#handle well when one of the front
tires looses all of its air!
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 12:36:07 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Overheating..
Well, I'll probly tear it apart this week.
*sigh*
Ext. warranty wont cover the pump, but if you DO replace the pump
you would have
to replace that O-ring anyway...so...I'll see if the service
manager wants to
play ball or not with us.
:-----Original
Message-----
:From: Barry E. King [
mailto:beking@home.com]
:Sent: Monday, May
29, 2000 12:52 AM
:To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st:Subject:
RE: Team3S: Overheating..
:
:
:The knock sensor is down there, but I
doubt it is in the water
:jacket. Most
:likely is the seal(s) on
the water tube that runs through
:there. IIRC they
:are simple
O-rings. Big PITA to get at (like almost everything else on
:these
engines). Hopefully it isn't a head gasket which is the
other
:possibility. Could be the thermostat housing too I
guess.
:
:
:Barry
:
:> -----Original
Message-----
:>
:> I have a problem, where im losing
coolant.
:>
:> The car is building up a leak, and pooling water in
the V of
:the block
:> between the heads, on the drivers side.
Eventually causing
:overheating
:> issues..etc..
:>
:>
Dunno whats down there to leak, but does anyone have an
idea?
:
:
:***Info:
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:
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 18:19:12 -0400
From: "Michael S. Steinebach" <
mikala.s@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Nitrous
Hey.
I have a 91' 3000GT SL - DOHC 3.0L. I am
looking at nitrous. I was
wondering if anybody else was running nitrous
and how much horsepower they
are running on it. NOS recommended
80hp. Can anybody recommend a place to
buy a kit from the stock number
I need is 05124 . Retail is 600 but the guy
at NOS told me I could pick it up
a lot cheaper than that. I am also buying
an upgraded fuel pump from
Matt at Dynamic Racing. Would you guy's
recommend ND injectors as well
and if so what size.
Thanks
91' Mitsubishi 3000GT SL -
Modified
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
Split Second Upgrade
Magnecor
Spark Plug Wires
NGK Spark Plugs Gapped at .042
Polished Front Valve
Cover
Chrome Painted Intake Manifold
Enkei 17 Inch RPO2 Rims
Nitto
NT-555 Extreme ZR Tires
Erebuni Spoiler
Stillen CrossDrilled
Rotors
Stillen Steal Braided Brake Lines
Stillen Metal Matrix Brake
Pads
Phoenix Gold ZX400TI Amp and 1.2 Cap
Clarion DMX 5555z
HeadUnit
Custom Box w/ 2 AVI 8inch Competition
Speakers
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 18:12:53 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Nitrous
I got my nitrous for $500 from NOPI. Hated ordering
from them, but they
were the only ones at a decent price and in stock at the
time. I am going
with the 70 shot jetting on my car and it is
awesome. You will need to
regap your plugs... .42 is way too high
for nitrous applications,
especially on the 3000GT SL. You might try
ordering it from
www.acceleratedaccessories.com
Frank and Matt are great guys. you will not
need upgraded injectors or
fuel pump for only 70hp shot nitrous (or even
100hp shot) our fuel
pumps are capable of that much factory, as well as our
injectors. I'm
guessing you want dry manifold -0 that is the setup i
chose - Setup is easy,
and almost foolproof.
Let me knwo if you ahve any other
questions> I've had NOS on my '93 SL for
two years, and over 25000
miles....
- -Cody
#Hey.
#
#I have a 91' 3000GT SL - DOHC
3.0L. I am looking at nitrous. I was
#wondering if anybody else
was running nitrous and how much horsepower they
#are running on it.
NOS recommended 80hp. Can anybody recommend a place to
#buy a kit from
the stock number I need is 05124 . Retail is 600 but the guy
#at NOS told me
I could pick it up a lot cheaper than that. I am
#also buying
#an
upgraded fuel pump from Matt at Dynamic Racing. Would you
guy's
#recommend ND injectors as well and if so what
size.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 17:05:11 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Nitrous
:injectors. I'm guessing you want dry manifold -0
that is the setup i
:chose - Setup is easy, and almost foolproof.
-
---
NOS can be foolproof, but it cant protect the fool from
themselves.
Does thier kit come with an RPM window switch?
Does thier
kit come with a blowdown tube..which is required for use in the
passenger
compartment?
Does thier kit come with a guage (most do) and a bottle
warmer? 85deg @900psi
is about perfect *grin*
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 19:17:46 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Nitrous
#:injectors. I'm guessing you want dry manifold -0
that is the setup i
#:chose - Setup is easy, and almost
foolproof.
#---
#
#NOS can be foolproof, but it cant protect the fool
from themselves.
#
#Does thier kit come with an RPM window
switch?
Nope.. guess I shoulda warned about that... not a good
thing to hit the rev
limiter with NOS on...
#Does thier kit come with
a blowdown tube..which is required for use in the
#passenger
compartment?
No, but they almost force you to order it for like $20 more
when you buy
it...
#Does thier kit come with a guage (most do) and a
bottle warmer?
no gauge and no warmer, but you really don't need a
warmer, unles you
consistenyl race in cold places... 85 degrees is a
cool temperature for my
trrunk... Especially when racing and no
A/C... The gaugse I suppose would
be nice, but it's pretty easy to
weigh it and find out how much remains. it
all depends on the
application I suppose - I am by no means a hard core
racer - i just want to
be able to kick some serious ass in my NOS'd 6-cyl.
on the street...
Where pressures and such don't matter that much for
consistency, and
such...
- -Cody
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 20:10:44 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: OMG, The stock bov sucks part 2!!!
You can do 12s with boost at
18 pounds with race gas and downpipe (I do not
see that done yet on your car)
if your clutch can take it. I did 13.0s
easily with that set up, but
with HKS SSBOV (works as advertised drag
racing, but not that great daily
driving). I have since added an RPS clutch
and can launch higher than
3000 rpm w/o totally burning up the clutch! It
does mid 12s with boost
on 1.3 kg/cm2 with race gas on the tiny 9bs w/o a
Y-pipe (mine has
never blown off). The electronic boost controller AVCr
does a great job
of holding boost, but it never maintains much more than 12
psi past 5500
rpm. However, I kept it in gear to 7000 each time hitting the
rev
limiter in 3rd crossing the 1/4.
Sam 95 VR-4---
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Vineet Singh <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
3S Starnet Mailing List <
stealth@starnet.net>
Date: Thursday,
May 25, 2000 11:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: OMG, The stock bov sucks part
2!!!
>Remember my posts way back when, where I gtech'd between
each "mod" I did
to
>the car? Well, I've done a few more lately, namely
the 450cc DSM injectors
>and the AFC... and the best mod of all time, the
stock 1g DSM BOV to
replace
>the absolute Piece Of $hit stock
>>plastic<< 3/S bov!
>
>Here are all the things that are
on my car, pretty much in the order I did
>them in, and also possibly a
"hp" # from the gtech.
>
>@ 83degrees, ALL below are averages of 3
runs.
>
>BASELINE CAR 4600lbs 2 people, full everything.
>(As
purchased (STOCK), used with a single oilchange)
> - ***215hp*** (all HP
is WHEEL HP, not ENGINE)
>
>CAR with TESTPIPE ONLY (automatic 1psi
increase on STOCK Gauge)
> - ***223hp***
>
>CAR with TP, and
Gutted pre-cats (total, 2psi increase)
> -
***238hp***
>
>
>
>Round two of mods, Car can exhaust
better, but can it breath???
>
>CAR with ALL ABOVE MODS, and a
K&N FIPK
> - ***256 hp*** (average of 4 runs @79 degrees) at 8psi of
boost
>
>CAR with DSS JBC (Hallman type Boost Controller,
manual)
> - ***270 hp*** @ 10psi (and boost was more responsive)
> -
***296 hp*** @ 13psi (set as high as I felt safe with stock
injectors)
>
>
>
>Round 3 of mods/tests,
Superfly!
>
>CAR with all above mods, and new plugs(.031
gap)/Magnecor wires, DSM 450cc
>injectors,
>S-AFC. Boost @ 18psi,
weight with driver, and no spare/jack/tools
>4400lbs. (I don't THINK the
car is THAT heavy, but I can't skew the weight
>I started testing with..
which was 4600lbs)
>
> - ***325 hp*** (average of 2 runs, @ 75
degrees)
>I have also been to the track, and could pull off 13.5's@100mph
all day.
>
>
>
>The only mod I did was the TALON 1g DSM
Blow off valve. I cut the flange
off
>the stock DSM IC pipe, welded it
to a small scrap piece of pipe, made sure
>it didn't leak, painted and
installed as is (no crushing).
>
>Guess what happened? I blew an IC
pipe off the "Y" pipe, and boost had shot
>up to around 21 psi!!! (No, I
didn't mess with the MBC yet!!!). Sucks to
>drive back to the garage in
"limp" mode. I lost the clamp as well. Not to
>worry, I fixed everything,
turned the boost down a single turn, and
>amazingly, it was now set at max
18psi!
>
>You are saying... so? 18psi, that's what you had before
right? yes...
kinda!
> - ***358 hp*** !!! (average of 3 runs @ 72
degrees)
>
>
>
>358hp??? how come? I didn't change any
boost setting, it's still 18psi...
>NOPE! it's a much better 18psi, and at
the top of second, IT DOESN'T DROP
>OFF TO 10psi! It drops only to 14-15
psi!!!
>
>That means the stock BOV was leaking about 5 psi of boost
at the top of
each
>gear... which meant the turbo's were probably
overspinning, futily trying
to
>maintain my 18psi setting. I'm sure
before, with the stock 3/S BOV, I was
in
>a very inefficient "boost"
producing zone for the stock 9b turbo's... now I
>think they are perfect
where they are.
>
>I'm VERY pleased with this last mod, it should
have been one of the first,
I
>just didn't realize the bov sucked so
bad. The car is much more responsive,
>boost rises faster, and now I have
that distinct "psshhsshhhh" sound
between
>shifts!!!
>
>In
fact, it's so much more responsive, I actually fell into a kind
of
>feedback loop, accelerated, got pushed back in the seat which caused
the
car
>to slow down and me move forward and hit the gas a bit
again... about 3
>times going over a bump, something I probably never
would have experienced
>with the stock 3/S BOV.
>
>The stock
3/S BOV is super leaky. Don't believe me? take yours off, clean
it
>a
bit (since you are gonna put your mouth on it), blow into the BOTTOM
end
>(not the tube that sticks out the side). Tell me if you hear/feel
air
>escaping through that side hole(return tube)! I almost guarantee that
you
>will, AND THAT'S AT MOST 2 PSI!!! imagine having 15+ psi on that
tube, and
>VACUUM on the other end (towards the MAF). The stock DSM one is
ALL METAL,
>and not even a peep at 10 psi from my
compressor!
>
>Even if you have almost no mods on the car, changing
it to a stock 1g DSM
>BOV would be a good idea. It does get close to the
shifter linkages, but
>won't hit (in my case at least). You will either
need to buy a small
adaptor
>for the bottom flange, or fabricate it
yourself.
>
>For the return tube, since the DSM tube is smaller than
the stock 3/S one,
I
>had to cut the stock rubber return tube for the
DSM's, and insert a 1"
>section into the 3/S MAF tube. In THAT, I stuck
the end of the DSM BOV, and
>it sealed up great (this area never sees
boost, so don't worry too much
>about it)
>
>Oh yes, the Gtech
gave me a 13.5 quarter mile time, and it's usually always
>about 3-5/10's
too slow, so I should hit 13.1's and 2's next time I go to
>the track!
Yay! I love my car!
>
>PS: what boost do I need (and other mods) to
run 12's on the stock 9b
>turbo's? I've heard of people doing such a feat,
that would rock! Do you
>need race gas? also, I get minimal knock at
"18"psi... 2.09$ a gallon of 93
>Amoco ultimate is some good stuff!!! (I'm
kidding... I hate gas prices
right
>now!)
>
>143 hp over
stock settings. This car is getting to be more fun, every day!
>$hit, some
cars don't even have 143hp :) (honda's?)
>
>PPS: what does a 92
Dodge Stealth RT/TT really weigh? (one driver, no
>spare/tools,
etc)
>
>Any honda owners out there want a free BOV?
:)
>
>Vineet Singh < If I were a stock 3/S BOV, I would cry
:)
>Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.org>Club DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 17:39:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Nitrous
> #Does thier kit come with an RPM window
switch?
>
> Nope.. guess I shoulda warned about that... not a
good thing to hit the rev
> limiter with NOS on...
- ---
Its
just as destructive to hit NOS too early as well...the alrger the shot
the
later you should wait..dont want to overshoot on what youre injecting
- -vs-
normal air.
> #Does thier kit come with a blowdown tube..which
is required for use in the
> #passenger compartment?
>
> No,
but they almost force you to order it for like $20 more when you buy
>
it...
- ---
Good for them, its an NHRA rule, and good sense...$20 is a
fair price.
> #Does thier kit come with a guage (most do) and a
bottle warmer?
>
> no gauge and no warmer, but you really don't
need a warmer, unles you
> consistenyl race in cold places... 85
degrees is a cool temperature for my
> trrunk... Especially when
racing and no A/C... The gaugse I suppose would
> be nice, but it's
pretty easy to weigh it and find out how much remains. it
> all
depends on the application I suppose - I am by no means a hard core
>
racer - i just want to be able to kick some serious ass in my NOS'd
6-cyl.
> on the street... Where pressures and such don't matter that
much for
> consistency, and such...
- ---
All quite true, but
remember as the bottle ejects fluid, it cools greatly,
those warmers come in
handy after one or two passes. A guage is important
too, because PSI is
key, if its too low..you suck, if its too high..you
get a really rough
feed.
Had it on the Supra for years..was lotta
fun.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 20:53:58 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TAPPING NORMAL?????
run 120 octane leaded in the car 2 or 3
gallons-it goes away after about 3
1/4 mile runs.
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Scotty <
omnitech@fast.net>
To: 'Team3S List'
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, May 24, 2000 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: TAPPING
NORMAL?????
>I changed my oil with Quakerstate 10W30 Synthetic,
and a Fram Extra Guard
>Filter, and it took the taping away right
away.
>
>Scotty
>92 RT TT
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: "Matt Jannusch" <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
>To: "'Team3S
List'" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Wednesday, May 24, 2000 3:05 PM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: TAPPING
NORMAL?????
>
>
>> > Arty's Cleaning Method:
>>
> From:
Aso8@aol.com [
mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
>> > 1. Drain
off and replace one quart of oil with Marvel
>> > Mystery Oil....
Don't change Factory filter.
>> > 2. Drive it for 1000 miles. Not
hard runs. Get the revs up
>> > to about 3000 to 4500rpms but don't
kill it. Just work
>> > the stuff in. Vary the revs.
>>
> 3. Change oil and filter after 1000 miles as follows: Mobil One
>>
> Extreme 0W-30 and a new Factory filter. Ticking sound
>> >
should be gone with this change but, Your Not Done Yet
>> > ...Drive
for another 500 miles with this oil change.
>> > Revs the same
way.
>> > 4. Now after that 500 miles. Change the Oil and Filter
again
>> > to the normal Mobil One 10W-30 and a new factory
filter.
>> > In really cold weather you can use 5W-30
too.
>>
>> Mine made the noise up to about 2000 RPM and then
would go away, but any
>time idling it would come back. I changed
the oil filter and replace the
>oil with Mobil-1 synthetic 0W30 oil and
drove it about 600 miles (mostly
>city/highway combination driving).
It never ticked with the 0W30 in. I
>switched back to 10W30 Mobil
One synthetic and a new Mitsu filter after
that
>and the tapping has
luckily never come back.
>>
>> On my previous Eclipse GSX, I
used Seafoam (similar to Marvel Mystery
>Oil), poured in through the valve
cover and drove for 30 miles and changed
>the oil/filter and that worked
well also.
>>
>> Seems like lighter oil or "solvents" push
through the sludge out of the
>hydraulic lifters, fixing the root problem
- which is that the oil supply
>into the lifters gets hindered, so they
tap.
>>
>> -Matt
>> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>>
>> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 May 2000 21:00:30 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tree Sap on Car
Use PPG wax and grease remover-smells like
turpentine and do not get it on
rubber. It takes everything off but the
paint-autobody guys use it before
they prep-sand for painting. I
use it once a year to strip off all the old
wax and dirt to start
fresh. Car looks brand new after 72,000 daily driven
miles uncovered
and un garaged.
Sam 95 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
GC3000GT@aol.com <
GC3000GT@aol.com>
To:
wbuckingham@dmci.net <
wbuckingham@dmci.net>;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, May 22, 2000 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tree Sap on
Car
>Hi Bill,
>
>Sap can be a very tricky thing to
remove. You need to dissolve it, not
scrub
>it, and there are
only a few solvents that will do the trick. One is "bug
>and tar"
remover - which can be found at any good auto parts store. No.
7
>makes a good one for cheap money.
>
>Also, purchase a nylon
net sponge (it's a sponge, with a nylon net
>surrounding it), and saturate
it with the bug and tar remover. The net
will
>take the place of
your fingernail that you've probably already tried. :)
>Gently work
the sap spots with the sponge, and it should loosen it
up.
DON'T
>SCRUB, just work it gently - scrubbing can scratch and harm
the surrounding
>area. If this isn't doing the trick - a little
gasoline will do it, but
use
>this very carefully, since it can strip
paint as well. Just try to work
and
>loosen the sap spot only,
not the surrounding paint.
>
>Once you've removed all of the sap
spots - you may want to give the area(s)
a
>quick polish and a wax to
finish the job, and give it some protection. The
>solvents most
likely will remove any protection you previously applied.
>
>Hope
this helps,
>Gregg
>
http://gcouture.tripod.com>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #152
*********************
