team3s             Thursday, May 25 2000             Volume 01 : Number 148




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Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 08:42:35 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1G DSM BOV

Hey Matt,

Thats a good post.  I did discover another way to prevent the 1G DSM BOV
from hitting the shift linkage....

The intake tubing comes in three pieces.  One piece attaches to the front
turbo, another piece attaches to the rear turbo, and the middle piece
connects to the MAS and has the opening for the BOV to attach.  You can
loosen the clamps on the middle piece and rotate it up a little bit.  This
will raise the BOV about a half an inch too.  This should eliminate the 1G
DSM BOV from hitting the shift linkage.

later,
Curt
CarParts at: http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html


>From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
>To: "'Team3S List'" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: Team3S: 1G DSM BOV
>Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 02:16:01 -0500
>

>
>The hookup was simple, just whack the BOV/adaptor in place of the stock
>one, rotating it as much as possible away from the shifter linkages while
>still keeping the rubber hose from the Y-pipe straight.  Fitting the y-pipe
>hose on was very tight, but it did go on with some prodding.  My stock BOV
>signal line was long enough to fit, with it routed over the top of the MAS,
>down to the BOV.  The output from the valve hooked into the intake pipe
>with no problems.
>
>
>I'm thinking anyone's conversion kit should work if it fits a 2G DSM,
>however this one fits fine and Curt Gendron is using Buschur Racing's kit
>with no problems.  Most of the DSM vendors carry this sort of thing.
>

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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 13:20:14 -0400
From: Brian Geisel <brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radar detector wiring

Double A,
    I own a Valentine One and have been working on the same problem.  The
nice thing about the valentine is that it comes with a direct tap kit, so things

like wiring it to a cigarette lighter outlet somewhere new in the car is not
necessary.  That's nice.  Kudos Mr. Valentine!

    The next nice thing is that all the power cables run on standard phone
cable (RJ-11).  That means two things.  A) It's standard and easy to get a
hold of, as well as cheap.  and B) It's pretty thin.  That means you can wire
it all the way around your windshield and not be able to see it.

    Now where might you wire into the car?  I haven't had the opportunity to
find that wonderful place in my car yet.  You obviously want to tap a line
similar
to the standard cigarette lines (off when the ignition is off).  Where that
perfect
tap spot is, I don't know.  I'll look at it sometime soon.  In the meanwhile,
anyone else have any suggestions?  Mine comes off the front windshield to the
right side, then down under the glove box.  Somwhere in there would be nice.

geis

AABOMB1@aol.com wrote:

> Hello everyone, I'm planning on buying a Valentine One pretty soon because of
> all the positive reviews people have given it on these lists. I just have a
> quick question:
>
> I don't want to plug up the radar to the cigarette lighter since the wires
> would get in the way and it would look real ugly, so, where would you suggest
> I run the wire to? Any place near the steering column or any other wires
> close by that I could use?
>
> Thanks.
>
> P.S. If at all possible, please send a copy of your reply to my e-mail
> address. Thanks again!
>
> AA
>
> -------------------
> E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
> Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In United States]
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 11:52:04 -0700
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radar detector wiring

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --------------1F1B81732D0D7C9A10CC11FB
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All:

Attached pic shows how I mounted my Cobra RD, but the Valentine will
work in the same position.  You can pick up both the hot lead and the
ground from under your courtesy panel, then poke the plug out from the
headliner at the windshield.  It makes for a fairly hidden, semi-permanent
install.

Rich
- ----------------------------------------------------
Brian Geisel wrote:

> Double A,
>     I own a Valentine One and have been working on the same problem.

            <snip>

> geis
>
> AABOMB1@aol.com wrote:
>

            <snip>

>
> ... where would you suggest I run the wire to?

            <snip>

> > AA
>

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m5//2Q==
- --------------1F1B81732D0D7C9A10CC11FB--


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 14:59:47 -0400
From: "wbuckingham" <wbuckingham@dmci.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radar detector wiring

One thought...this is where I wired the radar dectector on my honda.

The over head light switches near the front of the headliner at the top of
the windshield has a hot wire.  I took the cover off, tapped into the hot
wire, put the radar detector above the rear view mirror with a suction cup
holder.  The wire is then only 3 inches long, is hardly noticeable and plugs
into the detector.

Just a thought.

Bill
91 RT/TT
#0438


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 16:00:16 EDT
From: AABOMB1@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: [stealth] Re: Thank God for ABS brakes!

In a message dated 5/24/2000 12:30:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jnathan@indiana.edu writes:

> it doesnt make the squeeky sound all the time, do bad bearings do the
>  same?  i hate it because no matter how much i polish my car it makes
>  embarrassing squeeks and i hate dealing with repair (rip-off) guys. how
>  can i get the bearings checked out?
> 
>  thanks,
>  jeremy 

Well, if it is a bearing, then the sqeaky sound should get louder with engine
speed. You should try to go under your hood and pull on the throttle (right
behind the intake) and as the engine speed goes up, the sqeaky sound should
also get faster and louder. Of course, this still could be the sound of a
belt, so i can't say for sure it is a bearing, but bearing do typically make
a loud squeaky sound. I guess the only way you can really check it out is if
you know what a sqeaky bearing sounds like; or of course, you could always
take inspect the bearnings yourself or have a mechanic inspect them.

By the way, if this sqeaky sound gets louder with engine speed (as opposed to
engine speed), then it's more likely to be a wheel bearing.



AA

- -------------------
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In United States]

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 13:16:14 -0700
From: Leonard Dy <LDy@acssys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Where to buy flex section?

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone could inform me where I can purchase a flex
section I'd like to install on a downpipe (ATR).   Currently it will not
line up with my Borla exhaust when properly bolted up the the pre-cats.  It
is approx. 1 inch to high and a ½ inch toward the drive shaft.  If I connect
the exhaust this way, the flange would be really close to if not touching
the drive shaft.  Currently, the downpipe is installed, but the piping to
the rear pre-cat is not lined up properly resulting in a leak.  Does this
seem like the right?  Any one else run into a similar situation?  The car is
a 95 VR4...could I possibly have the first gen downpipe or is there no
difference?  Well for now, a flex sections seems to be my only solution.
Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Len

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 16:49:47 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Sudden but brief drop in power in each gear

My car exhibits the same symptoms (loss of power mid rpm's). However, it
does it very intermittently, and also there is a strange "low-pitched
whistle" asscociated with it. I have a FEELING it is the stock blow off
valve (BOV, pop-off, etc etc).

I think I build enough boost while kind of lugging the engine, and the
pressure just opens it up a hair, therefore I loose a bunch of boost, and
that makes the car FEEL like it's falling on it's face... I will be changing
the stock BOV to the 1g Talon or Eclipse BOV, since I have one sitting here.
I think I need some sort of adapter plate to mount it.

Does anyone else have an idea of what this noise/powerloss could be?

The clunk you might be hearing, might be coming from the carrier bearings
that hold the multi-peice drive shaft in place. You could try putting the
car on a lift, and moving the driveshaft around, if you notice slop, I think
an easy fix is to squeeze some silicone RTV in between the cracked rubber of
the "bearing". You can also REPLACE the bearing, but this is a bit more
work, try the silicone thing first.

Good luck!

Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org  -  "Never Lift To Shift!"

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 18:45:25 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: OMG! STOCK BOV SUCKS!

Well, maybe the correct term is "it leaks" really. Someone on this list
posted about how they blew (or sucked) on the stock plastic 3/S blow off
valve and it leaked... well most humans can't suck or blow more than 2-3psi
so I was appalled, and wanted to see if this was true. (and don't make any
nasty comments about humans sucking and blowing... :)

Again, before doing any mods, I gteched the car, and also noted the way
boost behaved (remember, I occaisionally had a "low-pitched" whistle/low
power situation at times if I lug the engine a bit). I have my boost set to
18 psi (surprised? don't be, you will see why).

Well, at 2000 rpms, boost starts to build a bit in 2nd gear at 50% throttle,
at

 100% throttle, same thing, and I get full "17-18psi" by about 3800rpms.
 It holds for maybe 500rpm,
 and then starts to fall off pretty linearly from
 17psi @ 4500rpm to about 11psi at 7000rpm.
 (See, at 7000 rpm, I'm seeing only 11psi, pretty low IMO).

The funny noise appeared in 3rd gear at about 60mph when I punched it...
there was very little engine power, but boost seemed to build pretty high,
but not as high as before, and it took longer. I have a feeling that is IS
the stock BOV, since I can blow right through the sucker w/o much effort!

Right now, I'm about to cut the 1g DSM (Talon) blow off valve flange off the
stock dsm pipe and weld a small tube to it so it resembles the shape of the
stock 3/S BOV. The BOV OUTLETS are almost the same, the DSM one however has
a little smaller diameter, I think that should be fine though, just need to
tighten the clamp a bit more.

I'll report back on the upgrade 1g DSM bov installation in a day or less...
hope this works! (and btw, if you guys think I'm too cheap to just buy the
adapter flange from buschur/extreme, save it... I just thought of this
today, and have the tools to do it myself... if they were next door to me I
would buy it... however it would take them a few days to get me the parts.
:)

Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org  -  "Never Lift To Shift!"





***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 11:58:14 +1200
From: Kenneth Wells <k.wells@morganbanks.co.nz>
Subject: Team3S: Caster adjustment and GAB's

I assume, as there is no caster adjustment on our suspension, that I would
need to get some camber/caster plates to make any adjustment. Is there any
other way of adjusting caster?

The Ground-Control camber/caster plates are the only ones I've found, but
they require that the Ground-Control coilover kit be fitted as well
(according to ground-control). This all totals $700  :  $300 (camber/caster
kit) + $400 (GC coilovers)

I'm sure it would improve the handling (I'm looking at replacing the worn
out stock ECS shocks with GAB ones. Any comments?), but it adds up to quite
a price, and my insurance company/warrant people probably wouldn't be too
happy about such a change. GAB's and camber/caster plates should be fine for
the warrant/insurance, as they don't majorly change the suspension setup,
but I can't find anyone who makes caster adjustment plates for stock
springs/suspension

Can anyone with GABs comment on how they differ from the stock ECS shocks?
I'm sure they're better, but how much firmer are they? Is the ride harsh, or
comfortably firm? Bilstein's & KYB's are the other's that I'm considering.

Thanks for any info,
Kenneth W
'91 GTO TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 20:40:58 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Setting up cylinder heads - seat load

My twin turbo heads are currently being ported and polished.  I decided
to replace all the springs and exhaust valves with new ones (factory)
even though there was only 50,000 miles on them (insurance policy).  I
now need to decide if I want to increase seat load (spring load on valve
while on base circle).  Doing so should insure that valve train dynamics
are kept in check at all times (eliminate valve float, reduce spring
surge, valve bounce, flutter, etc.).  I need to consider the following:

- - raising redline from 7,000 to 7,500rpm
- - boost pressures up to 25psi
- - exhaust back pressure has been reduced with 3" downpipe and exhaust
with no cats

Stock spec is 62 lbs on basecircle (1.492" installed height).

I figure with higher boost and higher revs I'll want to increase intake
valve seat load to ~75 lbs and a little less for the exhaust, maybe 70
lbs (since backpressure hasn't increased from stock).  Shims required
for these seat loads are still far from binding the spring at full lift
with our mild cams.

Any thoughts, experience?

Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 20:41:59 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Where to buy flex section?

I have the same set up, ATR downpipe with a Borla cat back.  And I too had
the same problem, just won't lineup.  I had to take to a race prep shop in
Northern VA and they cut the Downpipe and wielded in a section with an
off-set so the pipe would line up correctly.  Even after installing the 3"
jog over section, they had to loosen the entire Borla exhaust and work it a
bit before they could get everything to line up right.  But it will give you
a real nice sound, the ATR pipe I installed eliminated the main cat too, so
the first restriction I have are the Borla flow through mufflers.

You could us flex pipe but it my understanding that it isn't stainless and
will rust through fairly quickly because it's thin in the parts where it
flex's.  But again it's only my understanding, I never used it myself.

Dave Best




- ----- Original Message -----
From: Leonard Dy <LDy@acssys.com>
To: 3SI (E-mail) <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 4:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: Where to buy flex section?


Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone could inform me where I can purchase a flex
section I'd like to install on a downpipe (ATR).   Currently it will not
line up with my Borla exhaust when properly bolted up the the pre-cats.  It
is approx. 1 inch to high and a ½ inch toward the drive shaft.  If I connect
the exhaust this way, the flange would be really close to if not touching
the drive shaft.  Currently, the downpipe is installed, but the piping to
the rear pre-cat is not lined up properly resulting in a leak.  Does this
seem like the right?  Any one else run into a similar situation?  The car is
a 95 VR4...could I possibly have the first gen downpipe or is there no
difference?  Well for now, a flex sections seems to be my only solution.
Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Len

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 18:04:40 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: OMG! STOCK BOV SUCKS!

Hi Vineet,

Vineet Singh wrote:

> Well, maybe the correct term is "it leaks" really. Someone on this list
> posted about how they blew (or sucked) on the stock plastic 3/S blow off
> valve and it leaked... well most humans can't suck or blow more than 2-3psi
> so I was appalled, and wanted to see if this was true.

If you blow hard enough into the stock air bypass valve "inlet",
it ~should~ leak through.  That's how an ABV/BOV works.

>  100% throttle, same thing, and I get full "17-18psi" by about 3800rpms.
>  It holds for maybe 500rpm,
>  and then starts to fall off pretty linearly from
>  17psi @ 4500rpm to about 11psi at 7000rpm.
>  (See, at 7000 rpm, I'm seeing only 11psi, pretty low IMO).

For stock turbos, this sounds like typical behavior to me.

> The funny noise appeared in 3rd gear at about 60mph when I punched it...
> there was very little engine power, but boost seemed to build pretty high,
> but not as high as before, and it took longer. I have a feeling that is IS
> the stock BOV, since I can blow right through the sucker w/o much effort!

Blowing into the stock ABV inlet should indeed cause it
to leak through to the other side.  An ABV/BOV operates
based on an air pressure differential.  If post-TB air pressure
is less than pre-TB air pressure (i.e. Y-pipe pressure), it will
open because there's an inequality of pressure on the spring.

So unless you're able to stretch your lips in such a way as to
blow into the ABV inlet as well as the small top nipple, you
should be able to blow right through that sucker.  :)  That's
because your blowing increases air pressure on the valve,
while there is only atmospheric pressure on the other side.

However, an ABV/BOV also needs to be a sealed unit such
that it should not allow boost to leak outside whenever the air
pressure is equal on both sides of the spring (i.e. accelerating
under boost with the throttle plate open).  Our stock ABV tends
to leak some of the boost once above about 15psi.  If your
ABV is leaking significantly below this point it must be defective.

> I'll report back on the upgrade 1g DSM bov installation in a day or less...
> hope this works!

With the 1gen DSM bov your car will hopefully not leak any
(or as much) boost whenever your boost is above 15 psi.  I
don't think it's going to allow you to hold 18 psi up to redline.
You need bigger turbos for that.  =)

- --Errin Humphrey
94 VR4 - 15G
Seattle


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 21:56:42 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TAPPING NORMAL?????

I switched to a Borla exhaust with gutted cats - that took care of the
problem instantly :-)

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scotty" <omnitech@fast.net>
To: "'Team3S List'" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: TAPPING NORMAL?????


> I changed my oil with Quakerstate 10W30 Synthetic, and a Fram Extra Guard
> Filter, and it took the taping away right away.
>
> Scotty
> 92 RT TT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Jannusch" <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
> To: "'Team3S List'" <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 3:05 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: TAPPING NORMAL?????
>
>
> > > Arty's Cleaning Method:
> > > From: Aso8@aol.com [mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
> > > 1. Drain off and replace one quart of oil with Marvel
> > > Mystery Oil.... Don't change Factory filter.
> > > 2. Drive it for 1000 miles. Not hard runs. Get the revs up
> > > to about 3000 to 4500rpms but don't kill it. Just work
> > > the stuff in. Vary the revs.
> > > 3. Change oil and filter after 1000 miles as follows: Mobil One
> > > Extreme 0W-30 and a new Factory filter. Ticking sound
> > > should be gone with this change but, Your Not Done Yet
> > > ...Drive for another 500 miles with this oil change.
> > > Revs the same way.
> > > 4. Now after that 500 miles. Change the Oil and Filter again
> > > to the normal Mobil One 10W-30 and a new factory filter.
> > > In really cold weather you can use 5W-30 too.
> >
> > Mine made the noise up to about 2000 RPM and then would go away, but any
> time idling it would come back.  I changed the oil filter and replace the
> oil with Mobil-1 synthetic 0W30 oil and drove it about 600 miles (mostly
> city/highway combination driving).  It never ticked with the 0W30 in.  I
> switched back to 10W30 Mobil One synthetic and a new Mitsu filter after
that
> and the tapping has luckily never come back.
> >
> > On my previous Eclipse GSX, I used Seafoam (similar to Marvel Mystery
> Oil), poured in through the valve cover and drove for 30 miles and changed
> the oil/filter and that worked well also.
> >
> > Seems like lighter oil or "solvents" push through the sludge out of the
> hydraulic lifters, fixing the root problem - which is that the oil supply
> into the lifters gets hindered, so they tap.
> >
> > -Matt
> > '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> >
> > ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 01:32:26 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: OMG, The stock bov sucks part 2!!!

Remember my posts way back when, where I gtech'd between each "mod" I did to
the car? Well, I've done a few more lately, namely the 450cc DSM injectors
and the AFC... and the best mod of all time, the stock 1g DSM BOV to replace
the absolute Piece Of $hit stock >>plastic<< 3/S bov!

Here are all the things that are on my car, pretty much in the order I did
them in, and also possibly a "hp" # from the gtech.

@ 83degrees, ALL below are averages of 3 runs.

BASELINE CAR 4600lbs 2 people, full everything.
(As purchased (STOCK), used with a single oilchange)
 - ***215hp*** (all HP is WHEEL HP, not ENGINE)

CAR with TESTPIPE ONLY (automatic 1psi increase on STOCK Gauge)
 - ***223hp***

CAR with TP, and Gutted pre-cats (total, 2psi increase)
 - ***238hp***



Round two of mods, Car can exhaust better, but can it breath???

CAR with ALL ABOVE MODS, and a K&N FIPK
 - ***256 hp*** (average of 4 runs @79 degrees) at 8psi of boost

CAR with DSS JBC (Hallman type Boost Controller, manual)
 - ***270 hp*** @ 10psi (and boost was more responsive)
 - ***296 hp*** @ 13psi (set as high as I felt safe with stock injectors)



Round 3 of mods/tests, Superfly!

CAR with all above mods, and new plugs(.031 gap)/Magnecor wires, DSM 450cc
injectors,
S-AFC. Boost @ 18psi, weight with driver, and no spare/jack/tools
4400lbs. (I don't THINK the car is THAT heavy, but I can't skew the weight
I started testing with.. which was 4600lbs)

 - ***325 hp*** (average of 2 runs, @ 75 degrees)
I have also been to the track, and could pull off 13.5's@100mph all day.



The only mod I did was the TALON 1g DSM Blow off valve. I cut the flange off
the stock DSM IC pipe, welded it to a small scrap piece of pipe, made sure
it didn't leak, painted and installed as is (no crushing).

Guess what happened? I blew an IC pipe off the "Y" pipe, and boost had shot
up to around 21 psi!!! (No, I didn't mess with the MBC yet!!!). Sucks to
drive back to the garage in "limp" mode. I lost the clamp as well. Not to
worry, I fixed everything, turned the boost down a single turn, and
amazingly, it was now set at max 18psi!

You are saying... so? 18psi, that's what you had before right? yes... kinda!
 - ***358 hp*** !!! (average of 3 runs @ 72 degrees)



358hp??? how come? I didn't change any boost setting, it's still 18psi...
NOPE! it's a much better 18psi, and at the top of second, IT DOESN'T DROP
OFF TO 10psi! It drops only to 14-15 psi!!!

That means the stock BOV was leaking about 5 psi of boost at the top of each
gear... which meant the turbo's were probably overspinning, futily trying to
maintain my 18psi setting. I'm sure before, with the stock 3/S BOV, I was in
a very inefficient "boost" producing zone for the stock 9b turbo's... now I
think they are perfect where they are.

I'm VERY pleased with this last mod, it should have been one of the first, I
just didn't realize the bov sucked so bad. The car is much more responsive,
boost rises faster, and now I have that distinct "psshhsshhhh" sound between
shifts!!!

In fact, it's so much more responsive, I actually fell into a kind of
feedback loop, accelerated, got pushed back in the seat which caused the car
to slow down and me move forward and hit the gas a bit again... about 3
times going over a bump, something I probably never would have experienced
with the stock 3/S BOV.

The stock 3/S BOV is super leaky. Don't believe me? take yours off, clean it
a bit (since you are gonna put your mouth on it), blow into the BOTTOM end
(not the tube that sticks out the side). Tell me if you hear/feel air
escaping through that side hole(return tube)! I almost guarantee that you
will, AND THAT'S AT MOST 2 PSI!!! imagine having 15+ psi on that tube, and
VACUUM on the other end (towards the MAF). The stock DSM one is ALL METAL,
and not even a peep at 10 psi from my compressor!

Even if you have almost no mods on the car, changing it to a stock 1g DSM
BOV would be a good idea. It does get close to the shifter linkages, but
won't hit (in my case at least). You will either need to buy a small adaptor
for the bottom flange, or fabricate it yourself.

For the return tube, since the DSM tube is smaller than the stock 3/S one, I
had to cut the stock rubber return tube for the DSM's, and insert a 1"
section into the 3/S MAF tube. In THAT, I stuck the end of the DSM BOV, and
it sealed up great (this area never sees boost, so don't worry too much
about it)

Oh yes, the Gtech gave me a 13.5 quarter mile time, and it's usually always
about 3-5/10's too slow, so I should hit 13.1's and 2's next time I go to
the track! Yay! I love my car!

PS: what boost do I need (and other mods) to run 12's on the stock 9b
turbo's? I've heard of people doing such a feat, that would rock! Do you
need race gas? also, I get minimal knock at "18"psi... 2.09$ a gallon of 93
Amoco ultimate is some good stuff!!! (I'm kidding... I hate gas prices right
now!)

143 hp over stock settings. This car is getting to be more fun, every day!
$hit, some cars don't even have 143hp :) (honda's?)

PPS: what does a 92 Dodge Stealth RT/TT really weigh? (one driver, no
spare/tools, etc)

Any honda owners out there want a free BOV? :)

Vineet Singh < If I were a stock 3/S BOV, I would cry :)
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org  -  "Never Lift To Shift!"

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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End of team3s V1 #148
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