team3s
Thursday, May 25
2000
Volume 01 : Number
147
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 10:05:34 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sudden but brief drop in power in each gear
I just imported a
1993 VR4 model from Japan last week and have a couple
of potential problems I
would like some advice on before I send it away
to the car
hospital.
Problem 1: When I accelerate hard in any gear the boost builds
in nicely
and then at 4,500rpm (or thereabouts) there is a sudden and
complete
loss of power for a fraction of a second as if I've let off the
throttle
and then slammed it back on again. It happens in all gears but is
most
noticable in first.
The car is off for a full service and timing
belt next week which is
just a precaution I do on all second hand cars I buy.
Any suggestions on
the possible problem would be great. It seemed to work in
over the
course of the first 4 days I had the car. Also, for information
I'm
using 95 octane unleaded. I know the Japanese stuff runs
on
98-100octane. Don't think it should cause the problem
though.
Problem 2: If I engage first and am any way sloppy releasing the
clutch
there is a clunk from the centre of the car. I'm assuming this is
simply
driveline slop worked in from the age of the car but just wanted to
be
sure there was nothing common with these cars that could cause
this.
Any information and help here will be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 11:09:16 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Normal Fuel Pressure...
> What's the normal fuel pressure
range on the TT's at 15 psi of boost?
43.5psi + 15psi
(boost)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 08:08:51 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Sudden but brief drop in power in each gear
Gordon Tyrrell
wrote:
> I imported 1993 VR4 model from Japan
> Problem 1:
accelerate hard in any gear boost builds
> then 4,500rpm is sudden
complete
> loss of power for fraction of second as if let off
throttle
> then slammed it back on again.
Sounds like Fuelcut,
whenn computer detects too much mass of air flowing and
shuts off fuel for
fraction of second to protect engine from "making too
much horsepower" for
stock injectors etc. Need to lower boost a pound at a
time until it
stops. Will happen more/with lower boost in cold dense air
weather than
in hot weather.
> full service/timing belt next week; Any suggestions
on possible problem?
> using 95 octane unleaded
If due for 60,000
mile service, change the waterpump, timing belt tensioner
pulleys etc that
the timing belt runs on.
> Problem 2: engage first with sloppy
releasing clutch causes
> clunk from centre of car. I assume is
>
driveline slop worked in from the age of the car
Pretty much. There
are 3 driveshafts going back, and in good shape they
should be very tight in
that rotating one, they all rotate instantly. The
rearend gears have a
little play before you get resistance, this is normal.
Same for forward to
xfer case and transaxle.
> Gordon
> Dublin, Ireland
How
is Ireland? Congrats on the cool car!
Jack
Tertadian
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 06:25:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark Plug Q's
1) I am interested in this also, but I may
just try copper for a
while.
2) Luis Haddock has a neat write-up at
http://www.dsm.org/archives/1996/02/19960226.txt/8.htmlThis
and some other links are on the technical page at my web site.
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/The
New 3/S Backup CD Homepage -->
http://www.manualcd.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Errin Humphrey" <
errin@u.washington.edu>
To:
"Starnet" <
stealth@starnet.net>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 23, 2000 10:01 PM
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plug Q's
1) Has
anyone tried the new Denso Iridium spark plugs?
They are advertised to be far
superior to platinum.
2) Could someone give me a quick explanation of
how
to choose a spark plug heat rating? The Densos are
offered in
7,8, or 9, and I'd like to get a rough idea of
the advantages/drawbacks of a
hotter plug.
Thanks in advance!
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 08:19:51 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Spark Plug Q's
Yes, I have. They work well, but are not invincible;
I got a load of
BAAAD race gas, car ran like crap...and though the iridium
electrodes
were fine :) the ceramic part of a couple cracked due
to detonation.
Swapped out with new, good gas (even just 93 octane at boost
so high I
am ashamed to mention doing it on 93 octane), no
problems! I have one
or two sets of them for sale at
pre-giant-HKS-price-increase cost,
actually; if they last like my older HKS
F40 plugs, I can keep running
one set a LOOOONG time...even with
nitrous. I use heat range 8 (old HKS
F40, new S40i) with or without
nitrous, never melted a plug, no
problems, last a long time, so I don't mind
spending the extra money.
Jack Tertadian
Errin Humphrey
wrote:
> 1) Has anyone tried the new Denso Iridium spark
plugs?
> They are advertised to be far superior to platinum.
> 2)
Could someone give me a quick explanation of how
> to choose a spark plug
heat rating? The Densos are
> offered in 7,8, or 9, and I'd like to
get a rough idea of
> the advantages/drawbacks of a hotter
plug.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 06:29:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Normal Fuel Pressure...
My FP gauge supports this. At 10 psi
boost it reads about 53 psi.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT
- modified
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Trevor James"
<
trevor@kscable.com>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 24, 2000 3:09 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Normal Fuel
Pressure...
> What's the normal fuel pressure range on the TT's at 15
psi of
boost?
43.5psi + 15psi (boost)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 12:57:02 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S: TAPPING
NORMAL?????
Hi gang, I just picked my car up yesterday and drove it home
on a 5 1/2 hour
trip. The car ran fine the entire way home, but when I got
to my destination
and let the car idle to cool down the turbo's I heard a
considerable
taptaptaptap coming from the engine. I haven't heard the VR-4
engine before
so I don't know if this is normal, it reminded me of a Honda
engine. The car
has 50,000 miles and a new tranny on it. The noise is
undetectable from
inside the car. Just wanted to know if this was normal in
this kind of car.
Thanks.
Bill in NY
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 10:12:22 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TAPPING NORMAL?????
> The car ran fine the entire way home,
but when I
> ... let the car idle to cool down the turbo's I heard a
considerable
> taptaptaptap coming from the engine.
> The noise is
undetectable from inside the car.
So does it sound like a lash adjuster
tapping? If so, this is a common
problem. If you've never heard
it before, it's repetitive, is proportional
to the RPM of the engine, and
will emanate from the valve covers. It sounds
like that's what you're
hearing, unless you're being *really* picky and
hearing the noise from the
fuel injectors:) The method the service manual
gives to quiet the lash
adjusters is to slowly raise the engine RPM from
idle to 3000RPM and back
down over a 30 second period. You can repeat
several times, but it's
always gone by the 1st time. If it gets frequent
and loud enough to be
annoying, there are several things you can try to get
rid of it, and
everybody has their "magic" solution ;) I cleaned everything
out with
some injector/valve cleaner, Marvel Mystery Oil, and some other
stuff last
summer (it was loud enough to be embarrassing) and I've almost
never heard it
again <fingers crossed>. I can elaborate on what I used to
get
rid of the ticking if you like.
HTH
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
*** No more ticking
lash adjusters(since 07/99)! ***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla
(DOHC, Auto) 66,000mi
Cheapo 185/14 "gonna slide off
the road" tires (must fix)
Battery:1, Erik:0
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 13:29:53 -0400
From: Brian Geisel <
brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TAPPING NORMAL?????
Erik,
Would you
please (elaborate)? My car does that a lot and it can be heard
from
within the cockpit usually. It does get to that embarrassing
level,
especially when you're at a fast food joint and you get the echo of
the
brick walls :)
TIA,
Brian
"Gross, Erik"
wrote:
> > The car ran fine the entire way home, but when I
>
> ... let the car idle to cool down the turbo's I heard a
considerable
> > taptaptaptap coming from the engine.
> > The
noise is undetectable from inside the car.
>
> So does it sound like
a lash adjuster tapping? If so, this is a common
> problem. If
you've never heard it before, it's repetitive, is proportional
> to the
RPM of the engine, and will emanate from the valve covers. It
sounds
> like that's what you're hearing, unless you're being *really*
picky and
> hearing the noise from the fuel injectors:) The method
the service manual
> gives to quiet the lash adjusters is to slowly raise
the engine RPM from
> idle to 3000RPM and back down over a 30 second
period. You can repeat
> several times, but it's always gone by the
1st time. If it gets frequent
> and loud enough to be annoying,
there are several things you can try to get
> rid of it, and everybody has
their "magic" solution ;) I cleaned everything
> out with some
injector/valve cleaner, Marvel Mystery Oil, and some other
> stuff last
summer (it was loud enough to be embarrassing) and I've almost
> never
heard it again <fingers crossed>. I can elaborate on what I used
to
> get rid of the ticking if you like.
>
> HTH
>
--Erik
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
> Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
> Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
> K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
bye-bye
> Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil
filter
> *** No more ticking lash adjusters(since
07/99)! ***
> '94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla (DOHC, Auto)
66,000mi
> Cheapo 185/14 "gonna slide off the
road" tires (must fix)
> Battery:1, Erik:0
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 10:58:02 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TAPPING NORMAL?????
> Would you please
(elaborate)? My car does that a lot and
> it can be heard from
within the cockpit usually. It does get to that
> embarrassing
level, especially when you're at a fast food joint
> and you get the echo
of the brick walls :)
>
> TIA,
> Brian
Sure, no
problem:) I don't claim to be the authority on this issue, but I
seem
to have fixed the problem in my car, so I guess that's
worth
something... As I've said, I don't know exactly which thing I did
fixed the
problem, but I know all together, they fixed it...for now anyway:)
Here's an
excerpt from my post on this list from last October:
-
------
Here's what I did:
1) Arty's cleaning method (MMO)
-
nothing changed right away
2) BG 44K Fuel Injector cleaner
- nothing
changed right away
3) GM EOS(1pt/change) and a fresh oil/filter change
-
intermittent afterwards
4) Fresh oil (not filter) change
-
gone
MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil (not to be confused with snake oil:)
BG
44K is a fuel injector cleaner that I got at my dealer.
GM EOS is General
Motors Engine Oil Supplement (Mitsu or GM dealer)
Arty's Cleaning
Method:
> From:
Aso8@aol.com [
mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
1. Drain off and replace
one quart of oil with Marvel
Mystery Oil.... Don't change Factory
filter.
2. Drive it for 1000 miles. Not hard runs. Get the revs up
to
about 3000 to 4500rpms but don't kill it. Just work
the stuff in. Vary the
revs.
3. Change oil and filter after 1000 miles as follows: Mobil
One
Extreme 0W-30 and a new Factory filter. Ticking sound
should be gone
with this change but, Your Not Done Yet
...Drive for another 500 miles with
this oil change.
Revs the same way.
4. Now after that 500 miles. Change
the Oil and Filter again
to the normal Mobil One 10W-30 and a new factory
filter.
In really cold weather you can use 5W-30 too.
> End of Arty's
post
I started Arty's MMO method in June, when ticking was regular,
loud,
and annoying. I hated going though drive thrus! I completed
the 4 steps
above in July. It's October now, and I have had NO lash
adjuster ticking
when the engine is warm.
The only times I've heard
ticking (other than the normal fuel
injector ticking) are occasionally when I
first start it up after it sat for
a while. Evidently this is
semi-normal, and the FSM even mentions it. As
soon as I blip the revs
above idle (2000 RPM or so), it goes away for good.
I can probably count on
one hand the number of times this has occurred
since
July.
<...>
Also, one theory as to the lash adjuster
ticking: now that I think
about it, the more frequent ticking began
soon after I accidentally let the
car go almost 5000miles without changing
the oil (I know, I know, bad Erik).
Anyway, I'm thinking that maybe some dirt
or other crap in the dirty oil
made its way into the lash adjusters and
partially clogged the oil
entrance/exit. This would make the ticking
intermittent, and loud when the
lash adjusters got clogged (they don't work
if they're oil-starved, right?)
Perhaps it took a while to get all the junk
out of them and now that I'm
making sure my oil is pretty darned clean it
hasn't come back.... well, my
thoughts anyway.
-
-----------------------------
I've changed the oil/filter every 2-3k
miles since last summer and things
seem to be ok.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
*** No more ticking
lash adjusters(since 07/99)! ***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla
(DOHC, Auto) 66,000mi
Cheapo 185/14 "gonna slide off
the road" tires (must fix)
Battery:1, Erik:0
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 14:05:45 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TAPPING NORMAL?????
> Arty's Cleaning Method:
> From:
Aso8@aol.com [
mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
> 1. Drain off and
replace one quart of oil with Marvel
> Mystery Oil.... Don't change
Factory filter.
> 2. Drive it for 1000 miles. Not hard runs. Get the revs
up
> to about 3000 to 4500rpms but don't kill it. Just work
> the
stuff in. Vary the revs.
> 3. Change oil and filter after 1000 miles as
follows: Mobil One
> Extreme 0W-30 and a new Factory filter. Ticking
sound
> should be gone with this change but, Your Not Done Yet
>
...Drive for another 500 miles with this oil change.
> Revs the same
way.
> 4. Now after that 500 miles. Change the Oil and Filter
again
> to the normal Mobil One 10W-30 and a new factory filter.
>
In really cold weather you can use 5W-30 too.
Mine made the noise up to
about 2000 RPM and then would go away, but any time idling it would come
back. I changed the oil filter and replace the oil with Mobil-1 synthetic
0W30 oil and drove it about 600 miles (mostly city/highway combination
driving). It never ticked with the 0W30 in. I switched back to 10W30
Mobil One synthetic and a new Mitsu filter after that and the tapping has
luckily never come back.
On my previous Eclipse GSX, I used Seafoam
(similar to Marvel Mystery Oil), poured in through the valve cover and drove for
30 miles and changed the oil/filter and that worked well also.
Seems like
lighter oil or "solvents" push through the sludge out of the hydraulic lifters,
fixing the root problem - which is that the oil supply into the lifters gets
hindered, so they tap.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 15:58:48 -0400
From: "Scotty" <
omnitech@fast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TAPPING NORMAL?????
I changed my oil with Quakerstate 10W30
Synthetic, and a Fram Extra Guard
Filter, and it took the taping away right
away.
Scotty
92 RT TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt
Jannusch" <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'Team3S List'"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 24, 2000 3:05 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: TAPPING
NORMAL?????
> > Arty's Cleaning Method:
> > From:
Aso8@aol.com [
mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
> > 1. Drain off
and replace one quart of oil with Marvel
> > Mystery Oil.... Don't
change Factory filter.
> > 2. Drive it for 1000 miles. Not hard runs.
Get the revs up
> > to about 3000 to 4500rpms but don't kill it. Just
work
> > the stuff in. Vary the revs.
> > 3. Change oil and
filter after 1000 miles as follows: Mobil One
> > Extreme 0W-30 and a
new Factory filter. Ticking sound
> > should be gone with this change
but, Your Not Done Yet
> > ...Drive for another 500 miles with this oil
change.
> > Revs the same way.
> > 4. Now after that 500
miles. Change the Oil and Filter again
> > to the normal Mobil One
10W-30 and a new factory filter.
> > In really cold weather you can use
5W-30 too.
>
> Mine made the noise up to about 2000 RPM and then
would go away, but any
time idling it would come back. I changed the
oil filter and replace the
oil with Mobil-1 synthetic 0W30 oil and drove it
about 600 miles (mostly
city/highway combination driving). It never
ticked with the 0W30 in. I
switched back to 10W30 Mobil One synthetic
and a new Mitsu filter after that
and the tapping has luckily never come
back.
>
> On my previous Eclipse GSX, I used Seafoam (similar to
Marvel Mystery
Oil), poured in through the valve cover and drove for 30 miles
and changed
the oil/filter and that worked well also.
>
> Seems
like lighter oil or "solvents" push through the sludge out of the
hydraulic
lifters, fixing the root problem - which is that the oil supply
into the
lifters gets hindered, so they tap.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 16:17:53 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
"THUD!!"
Thanks for the replies to the "tapping" question I had, you guys
are fast. I
have one more for ya, after the long trip yesterday I was
parallel parking
and when in reverse I could have sworn I heard a "thud". So
I then pulled
forward, put it in reverse again and towards the end of
letting the clutch
out I heard the "thud" again. That's when the tapping was
also the loudest.
Has anyone ever experienced this? I fooled around with it
today and it didn't
happen. I was really listening good and thought I might
have heard it
slightly but not nearly as loud as last night. Well, thanks in
advance for
everyone's advice. By the way, I'M HOOKED ON THE VR-4!! My
girlfriend is
really getting jealous, I love it!!
Bill in
NY
94' Pear White 3000gt VR-4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 17:08:03 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Crankcase filters
Cool, I got them
installed. I went ahead and put one on each head. I wasn't able
to
put the filter directly onto the nipple from the rear head as part of the
fuel rail is still
in the way. For now I'm using the hose that ran to
the intake. I'll by an elbow or just
use part of that hose
shortly. I'm using a small bit of hose on the front head as the
filter
wouldn't slide all the way down onto that nipple either. I've capped off
the intake
side and the rear crankcase nipple used to connect the two
heads. I had purchased 2 filters
and figured 'more must be better,
right?'. It hadn't dawned on me that if each crankcase
had a filter
then they wouldn't need to be connected, or that since they were connected
then
I could use just one...
I'm glad someone not only
had done this but knew the purpose. It's very common on other
cars,
turbo or not. It vents small amounts of oil into the intake after the
MAS. This oil
accumulates in the intercoolers reducing their
efficiency, and I would think that it could
effectively lower your octane
rating if it made it all the way into the cylinders. I've
heard that
the vacuum in the crankcase (with the factory setup) can be beneficial, but
most
people consider it more beneficial to keep oil out of the intake.
I believe the ideal
situation is to install a filter between the crankcase
and the intake so you get the vacuum
and the lack of oil. Btw,
it's not emissions legal although the only oil I've found is the
K&N
lubricant (is this even needed for crankcase filters?) and they do check for
these
during inspections here in Virginia.
I haven't
driven much, but I've made some spirited runs and induced high vacuum
by
engine braking and I haven't noticed anywhere near as much oil smoke from
the exhaust. I
have been trying to stay out of high vacuum situations
as my car seems to be burning oil
afterwards. This even happens after
extended idling. It was getting pretty bad, to the
point that even
moderate engine braking would cause smoke. Today I went out at lunch
time
and engine braked from about 70-80 down to 20 a couple times and only
the last time did I
notice what looked to be a cloud of smoke. This
will take further testing, but I find it
hard to believe that this could have
cured that particular problem. How much vacuum could
there possibly be
just after the MAS, even while engine braking?
Thanks
again,
Jason
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 May 2000 00:50:12 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Crankcase filters
> Cool, I got them
installed. I went ahead and put one on each head. I
wasn't able
to
> put the filter directly onto the nipple from the rear head as part of
the
fuel rail is still
> in the way. For now I'm using the hose
that ran to the intake.
Due to the little vacuum effect on the inlet part
after the MAS as well as
the pressurised port that leads to the covers,
circulation of the air is
possible. With such a setup there is no circulation
anymore and the
ventilation of the crankcase is not provided anymore
!
> It vents small amounts of oil into the intake after the MAS.
This oil
> accumulates in the intercoolers reducing their efficiency, and
I would
think that it could
> effectively lower your octane rating if
it made it all the way into the
cylinders.
Yes, this is absolutely
right !
> I believe the ideal situation is to install a filter between
the crankcase
and the intake
> so you get the vacuum and the lack of
oil.
The best is to use something called oil absorber or better an oil
catch can.
Cusco makes a very good part (but too expensive). Just route the
pipe that
leads to the intake into the can and the outlet back to the inlet
trakt. The
oil is now catched in the can and doesn't clogg up any
filters.
> Btw, it's not emissions legal
With this solution, it
is. BTW, on larger trucks this is a normal thing.
I do have a simple oil
catch can I got from a cart.shop. It is a little long
but I was able to
shorten it and will install it with my new setup soon. I
just wish we'd have
more room in our cars !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 18:59:48 -0700
From: Bruce =?iso-8859-1?Q?Body=AE?= <
bbody@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1g Eclipse BOV
I bought mine from Buschur Racing. It came with an
adapter. The only
problem I had was to twist it slightly (forgot which way)
when
tightening to clear my 6 speed linkage. I think they sell just
the
adapter as I also believe Brian at GTPro does.
Bruce
3Si
#0243
Mike Baldwin wrote:
>
> Just wondering if anyone on
this list has installed a 1G Eclipse BOV on
> their Eclipse.
>
> I'm having problems since the stock BOV ends with a 90 degree bend and
the
> 1g bov is straight. If I try bending the tube that hooks up to the
BOV it
> crimps it way to much so that's not a solution.
>
>
Any suggestions?
>
> My mods so far have only been a K&N FIPK
so recommendations would be
> appreciated.
>
>
Michael
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 May 2000 22:42:01 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Installing new engine, should I lube it?
I just bought a new engine from
M&S and it came fairly "dry." The engine
doesn't have any signs of
oil in it and the cylinder walls don't seem to be
slick. I was
wondering if I should spray some kind of lube on the engine
parts before I
install the engine and start it up. Are the rod bearings
going to be ok
if they weren't lubed before hand? Did the factory lube it
enough and I
just don't see it? This is my first engine replacement so I'm
a little
ignorant. What does priming the engine with oil do and how do I
do
it?
Thanks again,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T Twin
Turbo
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 May 2000 02:16:01 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: Team3S: 1G
DSM BOV
...I finally got mine installed tonight.
My car has the
6-speed tranny, and the kit I got from Extreme Motorsports fit pretty well
without hitting the shifter linkages. Essentially, it is just a mating
flange with a short 1" piece of metal pipe welded onto it. They supplied a
gasket in between the BOV and the adaptor, however they didn't use any gasket
sealant, so if I just blew in the end of the adaptor some air could leak through
the gasket. Not good.
I put sealant on it, let that dry overnight
and I was unable to get any leakage from blowing hard into the valve so that
seemed to solve that little problem. Upon taking out my stock BOV, I also
blew air into that one and it leaked a good amount as well - not a good sign for
the stock valve.
The hookup was simple, just whack the BOV/adaptor in
place of the stock one, rotating it as much as possible away from the shifter
linkages while still keeping the rubber hose from the Y-pipe straight.
Fitting the y-pipe hose on was very tight, but it did go on with some
prodding. My stock BOV signal line was long enough to fit, with it routed
over the top of the MAS, down to the BOV. The output from the valve hooked
into the intake pipe with no problems.
During the test drive after
installation I noticed less turbo "air noise" during acceleration and shorter
times to reach full boost. Apparantly my stock valve must've been leaking
pretty well (if it leaks from just blowing in it (2-3 psi?), imagine how much it
leaks at 15-19 psi!). The car accelerates quite a bit better in the
midrange and the turbos don't seem to be working as hard. My HKS EVC IV is
spiking a little bit more than before (making me think that verifies that the
turbos are spooling quicker - or rather that all the air from the turbos is now
making its way into the throttle body), but I'm guessing that the spike should
go away if I re-run the learning mode to make the EVC more aggressive at
adjusting boost.
The 91-93 cars seem to have a slightly different factory
BOV from what I've seen, so there may be some problems getting it to fit in
there. I suspect it will work/fit, but you might have to get creative with
hooking up the Y-pipe hose or something, as I think the 1G 3/S valve enters
straight in through the bottom of the valve, where on the 94-99 3/S the valve
enters and exits from the side at a 90 degree angle to each other. I don't
have a convenient 91-93 to look at, so I'm kind of guessing here.
Here's
a link to the page on Extreme's site:
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/icpipe.htmPart
EXM-0207 - $129.00. There's a clickable picture of it on that page if you
want to see what it looks like.
I'm thinking anyone's conversion kit
should work if it fits a 2G DSM, however this one fits fine and Curt Gendron is
using Buschur Racing's kit with no problems. Most of the DSM vendors carry
this sort of thing.
Better performance than the stock valve, and none of
the side-effects of the aftermarket valves that vent into the air. So
there ya go...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 May 2000 06:38:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Installing new engine, should I lube it?
Hi Chris,
You
might want to invest a few $ in some rebuild manuals. I found the
ones below
to be helpful.
Tom Monroe, 1996, Engine Builder's Handbook: HPBooks, 169
p.
Rick Voegelin, 1990, Engine Blueprinting: S-A Design Books, 126 p.
Ben
Watson, 1997, Pro Engine Blueprinting: Motorbooks International,
144
p.
Yes, you MUST pre-lube the engine (pressurized lubrication would
be
very good right before startup). Particularly the rod and
main
bearings. Even if you have lubed the bearings, drop the pan and
take
a look at them after you've fired her up for the first time. Don't
be
in hurry :)
Good luck,
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992
Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/The
new 3/S Backup CD Homepage
-->
http://www.manualcd.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 24, 2000 11:42 PM
Subject: Team3S: Installing new engine,
should I lube it?
I just bought a new engine from M&S and it came
fairly "dry." The
engine doesn't have any signs of oil in it and the
cylinder walls
don't seem to be slick. I was wondering if I should
spray some kind
of lube on the engine parts before I install the engine and
start it
up. Are the rod bearings going to be ok if they weren't lubed
before
hand? Did the factory lube it enough and I just don't see
it? This
is my first engine replacement so I'm a little ignorant.
What does
priming the engine with oil do and how do I do it?
Thanks
again,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T Twin
Turbo
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #147
*********************