team3s
Tuesday, May 23
2000
Volume 01 : Number
146
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 08:53:53 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Crankcase filters (no one knows?)
> I can't believe no one has
installed crank case filters or knows where
exactly they
> go on our
cars. No one can figure it out with a shop manual? I
just
can't believe
> no one out there can help at all.
I can !
What would a "crankcase filter" do for us anyways ?
I already explained that
one can install an oil catch can between the intake
and the crankcase
ventilation as this will reduce the amount of oil sucked
in by the
intake.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 09:09:25 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Paxton EFI FPR
I'm planning an upgrade on the fuel delivery parts and got
the Paxton EFI
FPR (with -10AN) and
filter. Unfortunately, it seems that I
lost the instructions and I wonder if
anyone has the page handy that shows
the possible setups (fuel return line,
etc.) I'd be very happy for a scan of
this page.
Thanks in advance,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 08:42:29 -0400
From: Brian Geisel <
brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Update: Screeching on Engine
startup
Erik,
Anything you do under that car is a
lot easier with a full sized car lift
and
air pressure tools, but you can
probably do it with a couple of cinder blocks
and the stock jack (I changed
my clutchwith just said set of tools). I'm
speaking from a 3000GT VR-4,
that's all I know.
It really wasn't too bad to get tot
the starter. Like I mentioned earlier,
it
was in the middle of the
clutch job, and I don't quite remember where.
Anyway, you've got to pull the
front underskirt. It's like 20 bolts, but it
really isn't too
bad. Just a bunch of manual labor if you're just using
a
socket
wrench.
The exhaust comes off pretty
easy. You might need to pull a piece or two
of frame (their only like 2
- 3 ft long under there). That's easy though, and
the exhaust downpipe
should come off pretty easy. I belive you're looking at
the starter now
and there isn't much more to do.
If someone else
doesn't post and fix any parts that i just don't remember
and
probably
glazed over, e-mail me off the list and I'll try to remember to look
at my
manual and let you know.
geis
"Gross, Erik" wrote:
> A
big thanks to all who provided info, both publicly and
privately.
>
> Had
the car checked out at the dealer (who, after listening, said
> bad
starter or cracked flywheel). The dealer mechanic then checked
things
> out and said that it was the starter and that the flywheel was
ok. (I was
> pretty sure the flywheel was ok.) So the starter
needs to be replaced.
>
> 1) Is this a
"don't start it at all until the starter's replaced" type
> of problem, or
is it ok to use it for minimal transportation?
>
>
2) The more important question: anyone done
this job themselves(Cody -
> you said you did, right)? The dealer
here wants about $350 (1.1 hours
> labor, about $230 for the starter, and
$18 for an exhaust manifold gasket).
> I figure it'd cost a lot less to
make it a DIY job. So, something worth
> attempting? I'm
reasonably mechanically inclined (plugs, plenum, TB,
> general service are
no problem) and have a decent array of tools.
>
>
3) If yes to #2, any pointers? Web
page? :) Seriously, though, I
> know the exhaust manifold
gasket needs to be replaced - any other parts
> other than that and the
starter?
>
> Thanks!
> -Erik
>
> BTW, just for
clarification, this is actually my friend's '96 3000GT (base,
>
5-speed)
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
> Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
> Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
> K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
bye-bye
> Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil
filter
> *** No more ticking lash adjusters(since
07/99)! ***
> '94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla (DOHC, Auto)
66,000mi
> Cheapo 185/14 "gonna slide off the
road" tires (must fix)
> Battery:1, Erik:0
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 05:58:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers
Thanks Roger for the info,
I have a
FP gauge and will keep an eye on it once the 720s are in and
the boost
cranked up. Still waiting on TMO cable ...
Jeff Lucius
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 23, 2000 1:17 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump
numbers
Jeff,
> I'm counting on the 90 gph (340 lph) flow rate
for my mods and
would
> like some assurance that is just what I bought.
This pump was also
> sold to me as "same as the HKS".
This is the
same brown cap pump that has been sold to me as the 90gph
one. I wanted to
make sure that it is but I never found any cross
reference for it. Since it
is already installed I cannot recheck the
numbers again but I remember that I
once asked the Meyers too but
never got a replay.
Anyways, one will
have to attach a fuel pressure meter to make sure
pressure doesn't drop at
high flow. I will, when my fuel mods are
really done sometimes
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT (I hate the rear bank 123 times more than the
front one !)
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 08:30:50 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A/C
Has anybody had there R12 air conditioning converted to the
new coolant? I
was wondering what was involved ($ wise) and if they had
it done by
Mistu/Dodge...I obviously have a leak somewhere, since I just had
it filled
with R12 last year and it's out again....plus the guy who filled it
is no
longer in the A/C business.
Thanks
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 07:50:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ARC-2
Hi Oleg,
I can't tell you what your settings
should be with the 550s and 9Bs
but here are my settings with 380s and 15Gs,
which you can maybe use
for reference. Also, I have the first version ARC2 so
the Accel
function has 0 at the bottom (6 o'clock) rather than at the top
(12
o'clock) for Rev 2.
LOW +6% or +3 clicks or
1:30
MID -16% or -8 clicks or 8:00
HIGH +10% or +5 clicks or
2:30
Accel +2% or + 1 click
Trevor James has 550s and either 15Gs or
9bs and used the folllowing
for his Ver2 ARC2.
LOW +8% or +4
clicks or 2:00
MID -12% or -6 clicks or 9:00
HIGH -16% or -8 clicks
or 8:00
Accel 0 or 12:00
For tuning without the datalogger, you should
see the ARM1 cycle
during idle - adjust the Accell and LOW. For cruising at a
relatively
constant speed or under light acceleration, the ARM1 should
also
cycle - adjust MID. Under strong acceleration, the ARM1 should
have
only the last 1 or 2 blue lights lit (rich) - adjust MID and HIGH.
I
have found that if the MID is too low, the car will stall as I slow
down
to stop. And if settings are too rich, she will bog down under
acceleration.
LOW, MID and HIGH interact so changing one may also
mean changing another to
compensate.
Hope this helps some,
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red
1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oleg-Telia" <
Oleg@telia.lv>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, May 20, 2000 3:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: ARC-2
Hi
all,
I'll instal ARC-2 with RC 550 inj next week. Turbos - stock
9B.
Unfortunetaly I don't have datalogger, and it is very difficult
to
tune ARC-2. How do you think what "low","mid","high", and
"accel"
settings are best for car with this
setup?
Thanks
Oleg
94'VR4
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 08:16:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A/C
Jeffrey,
Here are some recent forwards from
starnet that may be of interest.
Jeff Lucius
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To:
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 23, 2000 8:30 AM
Subject: Team3S: A/C
Has anybody had
there R12 air conditioning converted to the new
coolant? I was
wondering what was involved ($ wise) and if they had
it done by
Mistu/Dodge...I obviously have a leak somewhere, since I
just had it filled
with R12 last year and it's out again....plus the
guy who filled it is no
longer in the A/C business.
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth############
FORWARDED FROM STARNET ###########
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"AI Nut" <
ainut1@telocity.com>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 7:29 AM
Subject: Re: A/C coolant
This may be
why:
HC-12a (R) is flammable at room temperature. At around 2-3% in
air,
you get a mixture that will ignite when exposed to a spark,
lit
match, or lit cigarette lighter (flame type, not the heater type
in
cars).
HFC-134a and CFC-12 are non-flammable, as recognized by the
Society
of
Automotive Engineers, Underwriters Laboratory, and the
American
Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning
Engineers.
These 3 are standards-setting bodies.
AI Nut
The
Orsels wrote:
>
> There may be a viable substitute for pre '93 cars
using R12
refrigerant. I
> asked for, and received literature from a
company called Duracool.
> One of their products which they call 12a
is described as more
> environmentally friendly than even R134a, is more
efficient than
R12, needs
> only 40% (by weight) as much for a full
charge. They also say that
it's less
> prone to small leaks because the
molecules are larger.
>
> It's available in 6 oz tins, 20 lb or 50
lb cylinders. A 6 oz tin
is
> supposedly equivalent to 17 oz of R12
(40%) costs $20 Can., about
$13 US.
>
> I've not tried it
myself, but a friend put it in his minivan, went
to
> Florida and back
to Ontario and said it worked GREAT.
>
> BTW, I'm not trying to
sell this stuff, just passing the info on.
>
> Duracool is in
Australia (email ;
duracool@bit.net.au)
and Alberta,
Canada,
> (
duracool@compusmart.ab.ca).
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "AI Nut" <
ainut1@telocity.com>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: Re: A/C coolant
SJ,
as you probably know, it isn't quite that easy. Some compressors
cannot
handle the smaller molecules in R-134a. Also, all seals and
O-rings
should be replaced -- hopefully that is in the "conversion"
kits that you
buy. There isn't any easy one size fits all solution.
AI
Nut
sjc0u812@juno.com
wrote:
>
> Folks:
>
> On older cars which originally
used R-12.. as we all know "normal"
people
> cannot buy this anymore
and at $75/pound US it is cost prohibitive
to
> have it
> put in
anymore.
>
> The "new" refigerant R-134a WILL work in the old
systems without
any
> serious
> modification! it is recomended
that you replace the reciever/dryer
(as
> this
> unit pulls
moisture out of the refrigerant). There are "retrofit"
kits
>
out
> there for about $35 US.
>
> The critical thing that you
MUST do is to evacuate the system
completely.
> To
> do
this you need to pull 25" of vacuum on the system for 1 hr, then
> refill
with
> the new refrigerant. R134a works at about 80% as efficient as
R-12
xin
> the same
> system, but 80% is better than 0% or
$1000...
>
> Best,
>
> SJ
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: Re: A/C coolant
That
... and the recommendation I've often seen is to replace the
Compressor with
a heavier duty one as well. Now that certainly isn't
required, but the
A/C won't be operating at optimal efficiency.
According to some people I
know that have done this, that's no big
deal ... as SJ points out, 80% is
certainly better than 0% ... but I
still felt I should mention it.
AI
Nut wrote:
> SJ, as you probably know, it isn't quite that easy.
Some
compressors
> cannot handle the smaller molecules in R-134a.
Also, all seals and
> O-rings should be replaced -- hopefully that is in
the "conversion"
kits
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "AI
Nut" <
ainut1@telocity.com>
To:
<
ryanp@crcwnet.com>; "3000list"
<
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Sunday, May 14, 2000 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134?
Ryan, I think
you received an outstanding bargain from a shop. You
could have done it
for considerably less yourself if you had the
required tools and certs, about
$2-3k worth. For your other 3
vehicles, it is not uncommon for the
American auto makers to use the
same designs for -134 as they used for -12,
even when they were
marginal with -12! They would hate to have to spend a
little money
and make stuff work in their $22-32,000 pieces of $hit. I
couldn't
believe it when I saw it, a Camaro and equivalents cost more
than
$20k! If that is the relative scale, our 3k/Stealths are
true
bargains.
R-134, or any other blend for that matter, will work ok
-- IF the
system as a whole is designed for it. I have heard numbers about
-134
vs -12 as about 80% as efficient. If your system is well
designed
(that is, over designed), then the existing compressor,
piping,
evaporator, cooler, and etc. will work just fine with -134.
There are some mechanical worries due to the smaller molecular
size
of
- -134 vs -12 but most auto systems should work ok in that
respect.
However, it is very difficult to get all the old oil out of
a
compressor and other components and the old oil will clash
chemically
with the new that is needed for the -134. So even if it
works ok
initially, it may not last. Also, some refrigerant will leech
out of
any system over time, especially the rubber hoses. At the same
time
that it is leaching, it is sort of coating the hoses too so it is
a
self-limiting equation. You will never get 100% retention,
though,
even if you don't change to -134. So, eventually, we will all
have
to switch over since -12 won't be available at all in a few
more
years.
The biggest factor for most people is the exorbitant cost
of -12 vs
- -134. A 30 lb bottle is now $750-$1350. Yes, it does
depend upon
where you buy it. Believe it or don't, the cheapest place
in my town
is at Auto Zone and I have shopped EVERYwhere here looking for it.
Not to mention that you have to have the EPA certification to get
it,
while you don't for -134.
Just thought ya'll might like to
know.
AI Nut
Ryan Peterson wrote:
>
> I would
have the same question. Why? This winter, one of my hoses
was
> cracked
and I had to have the system bled, fixed and recharged.
Overall cost
>
me about $300 including the hose ($150). Not too bad I think even
for
R12.
> One thing to keep in mind. R134 SUCKS! My 91 SL is an icebox.
My
last three
> trucks (Ford, Dodge, Chevy) have had R134 and the
systems could
barely keep
> the cabs cool. R12 was used for a
reason. It WORKS! Keep the R12
and buy
> heavier sunblock.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wizards [
mailto:wizards@mhtc.net]
> Sent:
Sunday, May 14, 2000 9:55 AM
> To:
stealth@stls.verio.net> Subject:
Re: R-12 to R-134?
>
> I agree with AIs recommendations ... but my
question (not trying to
be
> antagonistic at all .. I'm just curious)
Matt, is why do you
"really
> want to use the 134(a)"? Because
your R-12 system is dead and you
need
> a recharge and don't want to
spend a mint .... or is there another
> reason?
>
>
Greg
>
> AI Nut wrote:
> >
> > You need to change
all seals and O-rings. You need to replace
every
> > drop of
refrigerant oil in the compressor and lines. You might
have to
>
> change the compressor, too.
> >
> > It is strongly
recommended that you not leave the A/C system open
to
> > atmosphere
for more than a few minutes while working on it. At
least,
> >
keep that to a bare minimum. Acidic corrosion will set in
rapidly
and
> > cause you all sorts of grief and $.
> >
> >
HTH,
> > AI Nut
> >
> > Matt Booker wrote:
>
> >
> > > Is there anything I would need to change besides the
expansion
valve and
> > > drier to switch to r-134? I know it
needs to be evacuated and
all, but I
> > > really want to use the
134.
> > >
> > > Matt
> > >
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 12:12:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <
mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: 1g Eclipse BOV
Just wondering if anyone on this list has
installed a 1G Eclipse BOV on
their Eclipse.
I'm having problems since
the stock BOV ends with a 90 degree bend and the
1g bov is straight. If I try
bending the tube that hooks up to the BOV it
crimps it way to much so that's
not a solution.
Any suggestions?
My mods so far have only been a
K&N FIPK so recommendations would
be
appreciated.
Michael
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 11:17:15 -0500
From: Trent Owens <
twice_blown@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crankcase filters
Jason,
I have a K&N Crankcase
filter on my Stealth TT.... It is really easy to install....
I
will do my best to explain how I did it.
Between the turbos and the
MASS (for TT cars) OR between the MASS and the throttle body
(for N/A) cars,
there is a tube that runs from the bottom of the main intake (Usually
right
after the MASS) that runs too and enters the plenum right after the
throttle
body.... Remove the tube at both ends..... Then you will
need to remove the bracket
holding the connectors for the wires running to
the fuel injectors and move it towards
the front of the car. In other
words, remove the two bolts that hold the bracket
down.... Move the
bracket forward to where the rear hole is over the front hole and
just use
one bolt to hold the bracket on. (one bolt is more than enough) You
need to
do this because there is not enough room for the crankcase filter
otherwise. Then put
the filter on with a clamp. Last you will
need to plug the hole you made in the main
intake after the MASS..... I
used a small screw with a large head and gasket
maker..... Make sure it
is dry before you start the car! ( I let mine sit over night
to be
sure!)
The crankcase filter works VERY well.... Before I installed
it my IC pipes had a slight
film of oil on them..... After....
BONE DRY! Not bad for $9!
Hope this helps! Let me know if I
need to explain anything better or if you have any
other questions about
it!
Trent
Jason Barnhart wrote:
> I can't believe no one
has installed crank case filters or knows where exactly they
> go on our
cars. No one can figure it out with a shop manual? I just
can't believe
> no one out there can help at all.
>
>
Thanks,
> Jason
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 12:33:28 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
I've heard before about Addco not making the 3/S
sway bars until they have
10 orders. If 10 people order from CarParts,
that should get the order
pushed through. If you use my 25% off link
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
the front sway bar (#587) will only be
$118 plus shipping. See if
Addco can beat that price?? I'm guessing they
can't.
I'm not
sure why CarParts.com likes losing money on stuff, but if it
benefits us,
I'm all for that. :)
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>To:
BHurvitz@aol.com,
bbedell@austin.rr.com,
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com,
>
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>CC:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
>Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:32:20
-0700
>
>I will have more info on a www page
soon.
>
>You will have to wait till then, to dig into the group
buy.
>
>..money up front will be required, just gotta decide how
much..what addco
>has
to
>say..pricing..etc.
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
BHurvitz@aol.com
[
mailto:BHurvitz@aol.com]
>Sent:
Friday, May 19, 2000 6:27 PM
>To:
bbedell@austin.rr.com;
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com;
>
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
>
>
>I would also be interested in a
sway bar group purchase. Are there any
>differences inthe sway bars
between the various year cars, or are they all
>the
same?
>
>Bob
91TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 14:49:35 -0500
From: "Mike Rappe" <
mrappe@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Recomendations for 93 VR4 parts
I have a stock 93 VR4 and I just got the
60K maintenance
and timing belt done. I would like to improve the
performance
of the car without extensive mods. I was thinking first of
putting
on a high flow ari filter followed by a better exhaust system.
I
would like to get recomendations for these. I have to drive my car
to work
every day so It needs to be street legal. What about high flow
cats and a cat
back system? How much money do these run? I live
in Houston Tx. and I don't
know if there are any source here. How about
web sources for these parts. Are
the cheaper? Reliable?
Thank You for any info,
Mike Rappe
mrappe@flash.net***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 14:07:12 -0600
From: Dean Knoepfle <
speedfreek@uswest.net>
Subject:
Team3S: tuning problem
I am fairly new to this board and I am very
impressed with
the knowledge of the members on this sight. I have just
been
observing for the last month or 2. I have a 1994 VR4 with
the
following mods: IHI turbos, HKS VPC & GCC, 550cc
injectors, HKS
intercoolers, HKS Super Drager Exhaust,
gutted pre-cats, custom downpipe
& y-pipe, ATR high flow
main
cat, HKS SBOV, HKS mega flow
filters, ported & polished
heads, extrude-honed intake, high flow
fuel pump, RPS
clutch,
Greddy Profec A boost controller, Greddy
turbo timer, Greddy
peak hold gauges ( boost, oil pressure, 2-EGT's). Those
are
the basics.
The problem I am having is that the VPC was installed
when
it was about 50 degrees outside, and as the weather
got
warmer,
about 70 degrees it (the car) started to cut out. I was
able
to get rid of the problem by turning down the gain knob
(leaning
it
out) 2 clicks. Since then I have added the GCC and have been
able to
fine tune it even better. I thought it was perfect
until
yesterday when
the weather got above 85 degrees and it
started to cut out under boost
again. This time I was not
able to
correct the problem by leaning it out a
little more. I did
pull my plugs and noticed the performance shop
that
installed them did
not gap my plugs down to .032-.034 instead he left
them at
.037-.039. Could this have caused the problem? Any
help
with
my problem would be appreciated. Thank
you, Dean
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 15:14:18 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Recomendations for 93 VR4 parts
> I would like to improve the
performance of the car without
> extensive mods.
For the most
bang-for-the-buck, get a boost gauge and a boost controller. Autometer
sells decent gauges for a good price. Get one that shows vacuum and boost
to 20 psi if all you are ever going to do is street driving on pump
gas.
For a boost controller, most people on here will recommend an
electronic boost controller, such as the Apex-i Super AVC-R or Blitz
dual-solenoid boost controller. I have the HKS EVC IV, which works
adequately well - although the accuracy of it has never been exceptional for
me.
http://www.hksusa.com/html/boostcontrollers.htmThe
other route to go for a boost controller is a manual valve, which if you decided
to go that route to save cost I would recommend that Hallman boost
controller.
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.comSet
the boost to 14 psi at wide-open throttle and enjoy the ride. 14psi is in
the reasonably safe range for these cars, assuming your fuel system is working
properly. With just that, you'll see an extra 30-40hp and the boost will
come on quicker and stronger.
The car will look completely stock, and
these modifications are easily removed if need be. Exhaust is probably the
next upgrade after this to make the engine breathe easier. A K&N
filter, removing the airbox, would be another cost-effective upgrade although
there isn't really a noticable difference in power like there is with a boost
controller.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 18:23:47 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
Recomendations for 93 VR4 parts
> ----- Original snipped Message
-----
> From: "Matt Jannusch"
> The car will look completely stock,
and these modifications are easily
> removed if need be. Exhaust is
probably the next upgrade after this to
make
> the engine breathe
easier. A K&N filter, removing the airbox, would be
> another
cost-effective upgrade although there isn't really a noticable
>
difference in power like there is with a boost
controller.
>
Mike,
if you do decide to get an exhaust you might
consider the HKS dual tip. I
am selling mine and it is currently for
sale on E-bay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=335608404The
dual tip looks much like the stock exhaust in that it has dual
chrome
tips. The tips are quite a bit beefier though, and the sound is
nothing
like stock, much throatier.
E-mail me privately with any
questions.
Thanks,
Oskar
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 16:17:40 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Wheel selection? was (Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome
Wheels)
>Actually, the 18x9" Enkei RP01s are 21 lbs each. I
think I'm going with
them
>since
>this a considerable weight
savings over my narrower 18x8.5" OZ Monte Carlos
@
28
>lbs
>each. I thought the RP01s were about the lightest
thing out there.
What offset did you use? Any
interference?
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
ptg
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 22:24:05 EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Radar
detector wiring
Hello everyone, I'm planning on buying a Valentine One
pretty soon because of
all the positive reviews people have given it on
these lists. I just have a
quick question:
I don't want to plug up
the radar to the cigarette lighter since the wires
would get in the way and
it would look real ugly, so, where would you suggest
I run the wire to? Any
place near the steering column or any other wires
close by that I could
use?
Thanks.
P.S. If at all possible, please send a copy of your
reply to my e-mail
address. Thanks again!
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 21:01:12 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Spark Plug Q's
1) Has anyone tried the new Denso Iridium spark
plugs?
They are advertised to be far superior to platinum.
2) Could
someone give me a quick explanation of how
to choose a spark plug heat
rating? The Densos are
offered in 7,8, or 9, and I'd like to get a
rough idea of
the advantages/drawbacks of a hotter plug.
Thanks in
advance!
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 21:29:02 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
tuning problem
If you are running 15 PSI or more boost then yes, that
plug gap could
account for the misses.
Try 0.34 and see if that
helps.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
<snipped>
> I did
> pull my plugs and
noticed the performance shop that
> installed them did
> not gap my
plugs down to .032-.034 instead he left them at
> .037-.039. Could
this have caused the problem? Any help
> with
> my problem
would be appreciated. Thank you,
Dean
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 23:42:59 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Normal Fuel Pressure...
What's the normal fuel pressure range on the TT's
at 15 psi of boost?
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.65@107.9In need of new pistons...
92 GMC
Typhoon
13.96@96.4***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 23:49:03 -0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
TMO Datalogger on 94-95, OBDI/II
Just thought I'd let everyone know, I'm
in the process of trying to get a
TMO Datalogger working on my '95
Spyder. My early tests are not promising.
I made an adapter between the
OBDII port and the TMO port and it didn't
work. I also tried using the
TMO cable with my adapter, but with OBDII
scanner software and no luck
either. I also tried reversing the data pins
on the TMO connector and
it didn't make any difference. I tried taking 12v
power from the fuse
block and from the OBDII port and it made no difference.
(and of course, my
OBDII cable with OBDII software didn't work cuz the car
isn't OBD
II)
I have a few more ideas, but here's what makes me think the protocol
is
different:
When I click "connect" on the TMO software, it doesn't
immediately find the
logger/ECU so it brings up the window that lets me
select COM port. I click
"Connect" on that window with my COM port
selected and it, most of the time,
gives me the message about the datalogger
not found or 12v power not
connected. If I click enough times it
occasionally tells me it found the
logger, so I click "OK" to exit the COM
port selection. In the bottom right
hand corner of the logger window
the status shows as "not connected" when
normally, as on my Eclipse, it shows
a data rate (samples per second.) Of
course, none of the functions
work.
I'm still working on it, but we '94-95 guys might just be screwed,
other
than the $2200 Snap On Scanner MT2500 with $300 Scangrafix
software.
If anyone has suggestions, let me know.
jeff
'95
Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 21:55:35 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
TMO Datalogger on 94-95, OBDI/II
The protocol is definitely different as
verified a few years back by Todd
himself, and also through a few
conversations with two different ODB-II data
logger vendors.
The 94-95
cars are an anomally when it comes to the partial implementation
of ODB-II
and there does not seem to be any tool currently avaiable that
supports these
years directly.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
<snip>
> I'm still working on it, but we
'94-95 guys might just be screwed, other
> than the $2200 Snap On Scanner
MT2500 with $300 Scangrafix software.
>
> If anyone has suggestions,
let me know.
>
> jeff
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #146
*********************