team3s
Tuesday, May 23
2000
Volume 01 : Number
145
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 10:47:54 -0400
From: "wbuckingham" <
wbuckingham@dmci.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tree Sap on Car
My son went to prom and parked the car under a
pine tree, needless to say,
the car is covered with hundreds of droplets of
very sticky sap. Washing
was of some help, but many remain. Any
suggestions on removal of tree sap
from finish.
Bill
91
RT/TT
#0438
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 07:54:51 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Tree Sap on Car
Should be fresh, just wash it off with warm soapy
water.
Its mostly sugar..
Let it sit for a few months in the
sun..thats different. *grin*
- -----Original Message-----
From:
wbuckingham [
mailto:wbuckingham@dmci.net]
Sent:
Monday, May 22, 2000 7:48 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Tree Sap on
Car
My son went to prom and parked the car under a pine tree,
needless to say,
the car is covered with hundreds of droplets of very sticky
sap. Washing
was of some help, but many remain. Any suggestions
on removal of tree sap
from finish.
Bill
91
RT/TT
#0438
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 09:47:26 -0500
From: "Kyle Meyer" <
kyle@logicaldirection.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tree Sap on Car
I have removed ALL kinds of really nasty
stuff from my paint with Meguiars
Quick Clay... It even claims to remove
industrial fallout and paint
overspray. You hit it with the quick detailer,
wipe the clay bar over it,
and it makes it feel like glass... If it's really
nasty clay will adhere to
the car, and the easiest way to remove it is to use
some Meguiars
Professional Show Car Glaze. Then do the clay again and it
should take the
rest off. Then glaze the car and wax it, and it will look
brand new!
- -Kyle
I tried this on a black '89 Bronco with original
paint, and it made it look
like a MIRROR. I was absolutely
astounded.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
>
jeff.mohler@netapp.com> Sent:
Monday, May 22, 2000 9:55 AM
> To:
wbuckingham@dmci.net;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tree Sap on Car
>
>
> Should be fresh,
just wash it off with warm soapy water.
>
> Its mostly
sugar..
>
> Let it sit for a few months in the sun..thats different.
*grin*
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wbuckingham [
mailto:wbuckingham@dmci.net]
>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 7:48 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Tree Sap on Car
>
>
> My son went to prom and parked the car
under a pine tree, needless to say,
> the car is covered with hundreds of
droplets of very sticky sap. Washing
> was of some help, but many
remain. Any suggestions on removal of tree sap
> from
finish.
>
> Bill
> 91 RT/TT
>
#0438
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 11:32:33 EDT
From:
GC3000GT@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Tree
Sap on Car
Hi Bill,
Sap can be a very tricky thing to
remove. You need to dissolve it, not scrub
it, and there are only a
few solvents that will do the trick. One is "bug
and tar" remover -
which can be found at any good auto parts store. No. 7
makes a good
one for cheap money.
Also, purchase a nylon net sponge (it's a
sponge, with a nylon net
surrounding it), and saturate it with the bug and
tar remover. The net will
take the place of your fingernail that
you've probably already tried. :)
Gently work the sap spots with
the sponge, and it should loosen it up. DON'T
SCRUB, just work it gently -
scrubbing can scratch and harm the surrounding
area. If this isn't
doing the trick - a little gasoline will do it, but use
this very carefully,
since it can strip paint as well. Just try to work and
loosen the sap
spot only, not the surrounding paint.
Once you've removed all of
the sap spots - you may want to give the area(s) a
quick polish and a wax to
finish the job, and give it some protection. The
solvents most likely
will remove any protection you previously applied.
Hope this
helps,
Gregg
http://gcouture.tripod.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 08:44:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pump numbers
I just replaced my fuel pump with a Denso 90
gph unit. It looked
basically identical to the stock pump except some numbers
were
obviously ground off. On top of the stock pump it has:
Denso
2M27
195130-0810
The replacement has:
Denso 9U30
ground off
numbers
Does anyone know why someone would grind off these numbers?
Also,
I've added instructions for the novice fuel-pump replacer in the
mods
section of my web site.
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 17:15:14 +0100
From: Tony Pickering <
Tony.Pickering@scisys.co.uk>
Subject:
Team3S: UK members
Hi,
I live in North Yorkshire in England and
have just purchased a Mistubishi
1993 3000GT Twin Turbo -
eurospec.
Are there any events for UK owners or even a UK club,
formal/informal get
togethers, anything at
all?
Regards
Tony
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 13:11:02 -0400
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers
Where did you purchase the pump
from?
At 08:44 AM 5/22/00 -0700, Jeff Lucius wrote:
>I just
replaced my fuel pump with a Denso 90 gph unit. It looked
>basically
identical to the stock pump except some numbers were
>obviously ground
off. On top of the stock pump it has:
>
>Denso
2M27
>195130-0810
>
>The replacement has:
>
>Denso
9U30
>ground off numbers
>
>Does anyone know why someone would
grind off these numbers? Also,
>I've added instructions for the novice
fuel-pump replacer in the mods
>section of my web
site.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
>Red
1992 Stealth TT - modified
> -->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/>
>__________________________________________________
>Do
You Yahoo!?
>Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
>
http://im.yahoo.com/>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 11:09:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers
I purchased the pump from Matt Meyer at
Accelerated Accessories for
$310. I don't think Matt would have altered the
pump. Now is probably
not the time to bother the Meyers. I really wouldn't
have noticed the
alteration until I looked at it carefully next to the stock
pump.
Jeff Lucius
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick
D" <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
"To:
"Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
Team3S"
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 22, 2000 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump
numbers
Where did you purchase the pump from?
At 08:44 AM 5/22/00
-0700, Jeff Lucius wrote:
>I just replaced my fuel pump with a Denso 90
gph unit. It looked
>basically identical to the stock pump except some
numbers were
>obviously ground off. On top of the stock pump it
has:
>
>Denso 2M27
>195130-0810
>
>The replacement
has:
>
>Denso 9U30
>ground off numbers
>
>Does
anyone know why someone would grind off these numbers? Also,
>I've added
instructions for the novice fuel-pump replacer in the
mods
>section of
my web site.
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 21:32:15 -0700
From: "Steve Gula" <
mrelloco@eudoramail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bozz exhaust (was Borla repost)
GT Pro sells it.. "Dual
Cannon" exhaust system. off-road use only.
www.gtpro.com- ---
-
-----------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
-
-----------------------
On Sun, 21 May 2000 18:28:01
Jason Barnhart wrote:
>I believe that Bozz Speed offers a true dual
exhaust system for our cars. It's about $1600 and I hear it includes
downpipes (2 I guess). It's a nice idea but I understand that there are
some questions regarding it's effectiveness and I've yet to hear of anyone
running or testing
it.
>
>Jason
>
>
>***Info:
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>
Join
18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 15:49:00 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Public thanks! RE: MW3si meet
Hell yea! I worked on the Stealth
all week (when it wasn't hailing or
raining), and on Saturday. On SUNDAY,
Mike and I went to the MW3si meet, in
wisconson (dells). Curt Gendron, the
meet coordinator had scoped out about
60 miles of rural, twisty, sometimes
unmarked, narrow road.
Well lets just say, in 60 miles we used as much
gas as the 160 miles it took
to get there on the highway!
Blind
corners, highspeed chases and overtaking of not only other commuter
cars
(only about 5 in the whole "track", it was almost "abandoned" feeling),
but
also other 3si people... all in good fun. I would say it was almost
like
"sedated" rally racing because people wouldn't go through the apex of a
turn
at full throttle... atleast not me! (someone almost lost it going around
a
gravel/dirt 90 degree turn... and I was 2 cars behind... DOH! :)
You
non-turbo and a/t people kept up just as well! I was surprised, it was
nice
meeting yall as well. I wanna see the webcam thing when it's done!
Kinda
dangerous? Yes. Kinda fun? no... it was SUPER FUN! Even my
wife/navigator
(had the course map) had fun (not at first though!). We all
parked on the
edge of a cliff and took pictures of about the 20 cars that
were there still
on Sunday.
Driving around town in full 3si trim was fun, people trying to
get on the
road had to wait for our caravan to drive through... one after
another!
People in the neighborhoods would gwak and point, and people would
yell
"mitsubitchy's!" (I think another even called Mike's car "mom look, a
red
batmobile!" ahah!).
My repairs held up through what I call
rigorous driving, and even the brakes
were good for the most part. On the way
back home, I went for MY top speed
run, and hit 140 before I ran outta empty
road (it WAS totally empty, don't
try this at all if there is even ONE car in
front of you!). What a rush.
Mike was fun to drive with, he drives like I do,
and his car is just as
capable... even though it's only a 3000gt Vr4
:).
Mike is the one that had the red 3000gt at the last CHIDSM busse
woods meet
where Red and I provided grubs.
Now that the stealth
doesn't smoke or squeal/screech, and has all it's
maintenance done, I can
concentrate on the talon!
One quick question, does a bad wheel bearing
cause your wheel to bind a bit
when slowing down? and make slight "thunk"
noises? Can a CV go bad even if
the boots are great? What does a slightly
busted front diff sound like (can
you have a slightly busted front
differential??)?
PS: A public thank you to Curt and the rest of the mw3si
people, that was
really fun! Hopefully next year we can come out for the 2-3
days, and also
more people need to come! Jack T, where were you! Ahmed, I
heard you were
there, but addicted to gambling? Bad habit :). Zack, I met the
guy you sold
the HKS exhaust to... damn it!!! That car looked
sweet!
Thanks!
Vineet Singh < Dirty rims boy... Trust me,
before this trip, they were
SHINY!
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 16:11:15 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: You guys/gals ROCK!
I don't know what's wrong IN the turbo, I
just know that the turbo was the
source of the oil leak. I don't think it
leaked much into the intake side
(since the IC pipes were pretty dry), but if
you look at the exhaust side,
and near the center section, there is oil
leaking everywhere.
Actually, the OUTSIDE of the compressor housing is
covered with oil as well,
but I don't know where that is coming from. I
assume it's between the center
section and the compressor (or "snail")
part.
I also found that whoever installed the oil drain pipe on the front
turbo,
used a lot of RTV. Not only was the gasket almost impossible to get
off (I
razored it down, and then wire brushed it off... boy my arms hurt!),
but
when they tightened the drain tube to the oil pan, the RTV was
sqeezed
towards the center. I was appalled to see the actual hole that oil
could get
back into the engine was only about 2-4mm wide! (stock is more like
10mm).
Since the oil FEED line is "pressurized", I have a feeling that
maybe this
restriction caused too much pressure in the turbo bearing seals,
since it
couldn't drain fast enough just by "gravity". The turbo itself has
no play
in it, and all the fins are in good condition and it spins very well.
Hmm,
the more I think about it, the more it seems like this drain tube was
the
whole problem!
Well it's all good now, and I and the car are happy
(Yes, I can tell when my
cars are happy!)
Vineet
Singh
____
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: You guys/gals ROCK!
Vineet,
Good to hear you solved the
problem, but ... was it the turbo or what was
the exact problem now
??
> I ordered all the parts from Conicelli mitsubishi (Josh, he
rocks, he also
> has a 3000gt vr4 and Galant vr4, and great
prices/service). They got here,
> and started on the imposing task of
removing/replacing belts (pulleys were
> screeching), and the front
turbo.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 14:34:29 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Update: Screeching on Engine startup
A big thanks to all who
provided info, both publicly and privately.
Had the car checked
out at the dealer (who, after listening, said
bad starter or cracked
flywheel). The dealer mechanic then checked things
out and said that it
was the starter and that the flywheel was ok. (I was
pretty sure the
flywheel was ok.) So the starter needs to be replaced.
1) Is this a
"don't start it at all until the starter's replaced" type
of problem, or is
it ok to use it for minimal transportation?
2) The more important
question: anyone done this job themselves(Cody -
you said you did,
right)? The dealer here wants about $350 (1.1 hours
labor, about $230
for the starter, and $18 for an exhaust manifold gasket).
I figure it'd cost
a lot less to make it a DIY job. So, something worth
attempting?
I'm reasonably mechanically inclined (plugs, plenum, TB,
general service are
no problem) and have a decent array of tools.
3) If yes to #2, any
pointers? Web page? :) Seriously, though, I
know the
exhaust manifold gasket needs to be replaced - any other parts
other than
that and the starter?
Thanks!
- -Erik
BTW, just for
clarification, this is actually my friend's '96 3000GT
(base,
5-speed)
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
*** No more ticking
lash adjusters(since 07/99)! ***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla
(DOHC, Auto) 66,000mi
Cheapo 185/14 "gonna slide off
the road" tires (must fix)
Battery:1, Erik:0
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 15:55:14 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel pump numbers
The pumps come with the numbers ON them from Denso, of
course. To spend
time grinding off those numbers, the objective is
obvious: so the buyer
doesn't know exactly what pump they have
bought...but why? In this case,
there are many Denso fuel pump models
out there, which look outwardly
about identical (except for the ID numbers)
but FLOW way different
amounts/pressure capabilities.
The HKS pump is
the Mazda Cosmo pump, and flows the most of any version
known; BUT from HKS
it costs over $400. I have never seen an actual HKS
pump box, because
most always the source finds them for cheaper than HKS
and sells it to you as
"the HKS upgrade" for 3000GT VR4 (etc). From Alamo
Motorsports, I got the
"same as HKS pump"
ID Denso 3U04 195130-0771 on yellow
plastic plate on top.
Bottom of pump cast in aluminum: K6
The
Toyota Supra MkIV pump is also VERY good, almost
but ?not quite as good as
the Cosmo pump, and is available
for $180-186 via internet, Toyota part #
23221-46110
ID Denso 7U12 195130-1020 in black plastic
Bottom
of pump cast in aluminum: K5
My stock 94 VR4 pump was
ID Denso
12N17 195130-0810 in light blue plastic
Bottom of pump cast in
aluminum: A1
If everybody knew the exact part number of the
Denso
pump and where to get it at its source, cheapest, then
shops would
not be able to sell them at any profit, so
some might not want that number to
be well known,
who knows. I guess I can understand protecting
some
profit margin, it is tough out there sometimes,
but still, it'd bug me to not
even be able to
know what I've bought, AFTER I've bought it!
Jack
T.
Jeff Lucius wrote:
> I replaced fuel pump with Denso 90 gph.
It looked
> identical to stock except some numbers were
> obviously
ground off. On top of stock pump:
> Denso 2M27
195130-0810
> The replacement has:
> Denso
9U30 ground off numbers
> Does anyone know why
someone would grind off these numbers?
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 18:20:26 EDT
From:
TTurboAWD@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Need
Transfer Case(And a Question)
Hello
all,
Just wanted to put out a request to buy an
18-spline
transfer case. Anyone who has one for sale please
e-mail me or
call me at 540-433-3289.
Also a quick question for Jack or
anyone with this
knowledge. How many splines are on the 1991 vs
1993
transfer case and do you count them where the prop shaft
goes into
the transfer case input
bearing?
Thanks,
Wayne
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 18:58:30 -0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Sport-Normal flashing
Dear co-owners Hi.
Here I have a troubleshooting
question:
At the time I start the engine of my RT-TT the active suspension
indicator
starts flashing with both modes at the same time. Later goes
off or to the
tour mode. I have notice that my suspension is not
working. So looks that
this is the alarm message. How I can read this
alarm? When is located the
computer? Some scans from the service manual
will be highly appreciated.
Enjoy your cars
Thank you,
Nikos
the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto Rico
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 18:51:52 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Crankcase filters (no one knows?)
I can't believe no one has
installed crank case filters or knows where exactly they
go on our
cars. No one can figure it out with a shop manual? I just
can't believe
no one out there can help at
all.
Thanks,
Jason
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 16:56:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers
-
--0-1102520059-959039783=:11003
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Disposition: inline
Thanks Jack,
I
guess that makes sense now that you've explained it. BTW my upgrade
has K3
stamped on the bottom and the stock has R5 on the bottom. Also
now that
you've mentioned it, I'm very bugged too. I'll take this up
with the Meyers
after Matt is better and all and see what they say.
I'm counting on the 90
gph (340 lph) flow rate for my mods and would
like some assurance that is
just what I bought. This pump was also
sold to me as "same as the
HKS".
I've attached a JPG image of pump with arrow pointing to
altered
area.
Jeff Lucius
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "xwing" <
xwing@execpc.com>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "
stealth@starnet.net"
<
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Monday, May 22, 2000 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump
numbers
The pumps come with the numbers ON them from Denso, of
course. To
spend time grinding off those numbers, the objective is
obvious: so
the buyer doesn't know exactly what pump they have
bought...but why?
In this case, there are many Denso fuel pump models out
there, which
look outwardly about identical (except for the ID numbers) but
FLOW
way different amounts/pressure capabilities.
The HKS pump is the
Mazda Cosmo pump, and flows the most of any
version known; BUT from HKS it
costs over $400. I have never seen an
actual HKS pump box, because most
always the source finds them for
cheaper than HKS and sells it to you as "the
HKS upgrade" for 3000GT
VR4 (etc). From Alamo Motorsports, I got the "same as
HKS pump"
ID Denso 3U04 195130-0771 on yellow plastic plate
on top.
Bottom of pump cast in aluminum: K6
The Toyota Supra
MkIV pump is also VERY good, almost
but ?not quite as good as the Cosmo pump,
and is available
for $180-186 via internet, Toyota part # 23221-46110
ID
Denso 7U12 195130-1020 in black plastic
Bottom of pump cast in
aluminum: K5
My stock 94 VR4 pump was
ID Denso 12N17
195130-0810 in light blue plastic
Bottom of pump cast in
aluminum: A1
If everybody knew the exact part number of the
Denso
pump and where to get it at its source, cheapest, then
shops would
not be able to sell them at any profit, so
some might not want that number to
be well known,
who knows. I guess I can understand protecting
some
profit margin, it is tough out there sometimes,
but still, it'd bug me to not
even be able to
know what I've bought, AFTER I've bought it!
Jack
T.
Jeff Lucius wrote:
> I replaced fuel pump with Denso 90 gph.
It looked
> identical to stock except some numbers were
> obviously
ground off. On top of stock pump:
> Denso 2M27
195130-0810
> The replacement has:
> Denso
9U30 ground off numbers
> Does anyone know why
someone would grind off these numbers?
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
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--0-1102520059-959039783=:11003
Content-Type: image/pjpeg;
name="fuelpump.jpg"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Description:
fuelpump.jpg
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-
--0-1102520059-959039783=:11003--
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 17:07:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sport-Normal flashing
Nikos,
You should probably get a
service manual, as there is too much
information to give buy email. The
method for reading ECS codes (with
an analog voltmeter) is slightly different
than for the ECU codes.
The manuals on CD are a great bargain at $35 US
at:
http://www.twingles.com/manualcd/3scd/Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
To: "Team3s" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 22, 2000 7:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Sport-Normal
flashing
Dear co-owners Hi.
Here I have a troubleshooting
question:
At the time I start the engine of my RT-TT the active
suspension
indicator starts flashing with both modes at the same time.
Later
goes off or to the tour mode. I have notice that my suspension is
not
working. So looks that this is the alarm message. How I can
read
this alarm? When is located the computer? Some scans from
the
service manual will be highly appreciated.
Enjoy your
cars
Thank you,
Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto
Rico
__________________________________________________
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http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 19:20:58 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Crankcase filters (no one knows?)
> I can't believe no one has
installed crank case filters or
> knows where exactly they go on our
cars. No one can
> figure it out with a shop manual? I
just can't believe
> no one out there can help at all.
Crankcase
filters? Do you mean PCV valve? If so, it is located on the rear
side of the front bank cam cover on the left side when looking at it from the
front of the car. Big ol' vacuum hose coming out of it. I don't
think there is a crankcase "filter" per-se.
I don't think your original
post made it - this is the first time I've seen your question.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 May 2000 09:17:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pump numbers
Jeff,
> I'm counting on the 90 gph
(340 lph) flow rate for my mods and would
> like some assurance that is
just what I bought. This pump was also
> sold to me as "same as the
HKS".
This is the same brown cap pump that has been sold to me as the
90gph one. I
wanted to make sure that it is but I never found any cross
reference for it.
Since it is already installed I cannot recheck the numbers
again but I
remember that I once asked the Meyers too but never got a
replay.
Anyways, one will have to attach a fuel pressure meter to make
sure pressure
doesn't drop at high flow. I will, when my fuel mods are really
done
sometimes !
Roger
93'3000GT TT (I hate the rear bank 123 times
more than the front one !)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #145
*********************